There are a few things ways to grade sewing patterns and I share mine for a basic bodice and trouser in this tutorial. Know any tips or techniques? Share below. xx Kim Dave
I am sooo thankful I found you! I've been hesitant buying vintage patterns because I didn't know how I would go about grading it, thank you soo much! a million times thank you.
Thanks. I have been drafting my own patterns, and grading them for my body type because I am smaller. I wish this video came out earlier when I was learning. But I had been doing it this way all along. This technique does work.
I adore how easy this video is to follow without skimping on details ^_^ Many times I'll watch a tutorial where I have to rewind a bunch to figure out what happened, but you clearly lay out your each step and why you did it. I've always struggled with the measurement side of sewing but this video makes it a WAY more manageable task, thank you!!!
Thank you so much for your video I've been going to fashion school three internships and the whole nine yards and I kept asking them how to teach me how to grade and no one hasn't been able to and explaining the most easy and detailed way but your video did it thank you you have saved my life and my career I bless you 🌈❤️🔥❤️🔥❤️🔥❤️🔥
AMAZING, thank you so much! I took a pattern class and my blocks are all size 10. I’m closer to a size 12/14, so this is so helpful! Again, thanks for this video!
Thank you so much for sharing this video. I've been to a fashion school and honestly speaking, I regret paying fees for them to chop without the knowledge. Maybe my expectations were different from what I went to experience, but I'm ready to start all over again . Is there any beginner book you can recommend to me please. God bless you.❤
You're so welcome! What I realized from attending fashion school and working independently is that the time at school is honestly not enough to learn everything. For books in regards to fashion, I have done video about this. See it here ruclips.net/video/fAgPpYbnuDg/видео.html
Thank you for this video! Now everything is clear and seems so easy to do. I am not afraid anymore of patterns and cutting into fabric just because of you! Sending lots of warm hugs
Saw GRADE in the title... this lady is professional. My sis works in the garment industry and she usea the word grading all the time. SO, HAPPY TO HAVE FOUND YOU *** K I M
urgh god thanks for this! so many of these grading tutorials are trying to sell me their hideously expensive ruler system in order to do anything, or using a multisize pattern and using the other grading lines as a guide and i'm sat here with patterns from the 1940s and 1950s that only come in one (tiny) size with no markings - no seam allowance lines drawn on, no balance lines, just holes punched in the paper and notches if you're lucky going 'erm.... right.... so i grade this up by three sizes HOW?! ' THANK YOU for making this accessible and straight forward! you're a💎
lovely explanation but i would argue about the darts, because in 3 or 4 sizes down or up it could slide out of the pattern i would rather use the scary word "math" or rather move it proportionally so the pattern would retain it's shape and seem lines on the same place measure distance horizontally edge to edge and from the non graded edge to the middle of the dart and divide total length by the partial one after grading the outline measure the pattern horisontally at the same level then divide the lenght by the previously calculated ratio i belive if you grade something just one size up or down this is not really needed, but going 2 or 3 sizes might get interested i would also like to point out that horisontal darts should also grade in width to avoid exaturating or dulling down the effect they have on overal shape i mostly worked with stretchy fabrics and tightfiting clothes for cosplay purposes and and it was a nightmare to grade every time when the person i made something needed an update in size after winter :] in many cases it was making entire thing from scratch but sometimes only sizing down
so there are some general measurements to apply for grading? i didn't know it, i thought it was different for each garment. so if you started from a M size we can say that you added a L and S size, right?
Does the measurements for increasing/decreasing stay the same for all sizes? Like could i use this method for sizes 0-16? And are skirts done the same way as the pants?
When you grade up, do you re-adjust the darts? Like, move it more to the side seam. I prefer to use and pivot method, but sometimes the darts are not in the right place.
what if the difference between the pattern measurements versus the clients are like a 3 in bust difference, 2 inch waist difference, and a 4 in hip difference?
I think you can actually, from the hipline you can add the crotch depth and centre front curve. And after that, mark half of around thigh, knee and hemline dimensions from side seam respectively Also shaping the waistline might be good too
Thank you for this super helpful video. Could you explain how you decided to add an extra 0.4 inches from the notch point on the arm curve? [@ 3:30] I am confused why you add it at the notch when it seems you can add a notch anywhere on the curve and therefor the extension could have been added from anywhere on the arm curve. Does it matter? Thanks!
The basic concept of grading is the same as yours. How you went about it is similar to how I will do it by hand or with CAD. what differs is the grade rules, that is the amount one chooses to increase or reduce the pattern at each point. However, I will like to say that in your case where the half front girth grows by 0.5", the point at the armhole (that you graded 0.4" to the right) shouldn't grade beyond 0.25". The reason is that the ACROSS CHEST width in a full front will usually grow by 0.5" when the full FRONT BUST ARC grows by 1". If you continue to grade more sizes up & down with 0.4", you will notice that the armhole will morph out of shape. The bigger sizes will have overly shallow armhole curves and the smaller sizes will be overly scooped out, both of which will impact fit.
So you don't do anything to the inseam, only the outter seam? I am downsizing a basic pair of scrubs from XL to L.. Please advise and thank you. By the way, we have the exact same "real" nails....mine will grow to about 6 inches but because I like to sew, and a bunch of other things I keep them the same length as yours.
I’m new to sewing but, have some patterns my size that my daughter like so, I’ve tried to reduce the pattern to fit her (I’m a 14, she’s a 4) 😳and I’m just wondering for the pants, why wouldn’t you adjust the crotch for a smaller size? Is it because it’s adjusted from the waistline?
thank you so much this was very very helpful, I am gonna use the grading for upper bodice do I have to use the same measurement for back bodice as well. Would really appreciate a reply
What about the sleeve pattern that goes with the bodice pattern ?! Are you planning on making a pdf pattern to sell and will you be doing a video on how to grade sleeves ?!
exactly what I needed. thank you! are these measurements the standards used in industry as you said some people add 1 inch side seam. and so forth if you do decide to use 1 inch side seam would that mean you double the rest of measurements ?
I did learn how to make and grade patterns in centimetres, however you can grade in inches. As long you provide the size dimensions for your clients to see in a size chart
Does grading mean altering sizes on top and bottom? I am small on top and big on the bottom and I’m just learning how to make my own block pattern but I’m not sure what size to create. For reference I am size 12 on top and size 16 on bottom, any help or advice would really be appreciated and I’m still watching your video!
You’re welcome Jennifer. I got mine from Amazon years ago See similar here www.amazon.co.uk/ArtWay-Pattern-Master-Maker-Design/dp/B07N66ZWLR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1N4YJFQ8VWS42&keywords=pattern+master&qid=1645362281&sprefix=pattern+master+%2Caps%2C62&sr=8-3
I'm curious about the trouser... what's the reasoning for not grading the rise I guess its called. The seam that woukd go around the abdomen, between the legs and bottom. I'm grading a pattern up and want to make sure its deep enough, but I guess just adding to the outside is enough? Comments and advice on this question are infinitly appreciated!
![[DETAILED] HOW TO: MAKE BASIC BODICE BLOCK PATTERN | KIM DAVE](/img/1.gif)
There are a few things ways to grade sewing patterns and I share mine for a basic bodice and trouser in this tutorial.
Know any tips or techniques? Share below.
xx
Kim Dave
I am sooo thankful I found you! I've been hesitant buying vintage patterns because I didn't know how I would go about grading it, thank you soo much! a million times thank you.
You are so welcome! Glad you found this video helpful
Thanks. I have been drafting my own patterns, and grading them for my body type because I am smaller. I wish this video came out earlier when I was learning. But I had been doing it this way all along. This technique does work.
glad to know this technique has been tried and tested by you
I adore how easy this video is to follow without skimping on details ^_^
Many times I'll watch a tutorial where I have to rewind a bunch to figure out what happened, but you clearly lay out your each step and why you did it.
I've always struggled with the measurement side of sewing but this video makes it a WAY more manageable task, thank you!!!
This video tutorial is GOLD!! thank you so much for your thorough tutorial. So very helpful.
Thank you so much for your video I've been going to fashion school three internships and the whole nine yards and I kept asking them how to teach me how to grade and no one hasn't been able to and explaining the most easy and detailed way but your video did it thank you you have saved my life and my career I bless you 🌈❤️🔥❤️🔥❤️🔥❤️🔥
AMAZING, thank you so much! I took a pattern class and my blocks are all size 10. I’m closer to a size 12/14, so this is so helpful! Again, thanks for this video!
Thank you so much for sharing this video. I've been to a fashion school and honestly speaking, I regret paying fees for them to chop without the knowledge. Maybe my expectations were different from what I went to experience, but I'm ready to start all over again . Is there any beginner book you can recommend to me please. God bless you.❤
You're so welcome!
What I realized from attending fashion school and working independently is that the time at school is honestly not enough to learn everything. For books in regards to fashion, I have done video about this. See it here ruclips.net/video/fAgPpYbnuDg/видео.html
Dont feel bad, I have a Patternmaking degree from Fashion Inst. of Technology & none of us felt like we learned anything.
Same way am feeling right now we were taught pattern grading today and I couldn't understand anything she is not ready to explain well
Thank you for this video! Now everything is clear and seems so easy to do. I am not afraid anymore of patterns and cutting into fabric just because of you! Sending lots of warm hugs
You are so welcome!
Saw GRADE in the title... this lady is professional. My sis works in the garment industry and she usea the word grading all the time. SO, HAPPY TO HAVE FOUND YOU *** K I M
This is the most useful video I've seen for pattern grading!
Thanks for always sharing tips to help us better our skills!
urgh god thanks for this! so many of these grading tutorials are trying to sell me their hideously expensive ruler system in order to do anything, or using a multisize pattern and using the other grading lines as a guide and i'm sat here with patterns from the 1940s and 1950s that only come in one (tiny) size with no markings - no seam allowance lines drawn on, no balance lines, just holes punched in the paper and notches if you're lucky going 'erm.... right.... so i grade this up by three sizes HOW?! ' THANK YOU for making this accessible and straight forward! you're a💎
Thank you so much ❤ ❤ ❤ ❤ you are so kind to do this for us who did not go to fashion. May God bless you with so much favor🙏🙏
That helps a lot and it's clear to understand!
Very good tutorial. Clear, concise.
Thank you for sharing this video - I am new on fashion design. I am still doing basic fashion design. Much appreciated 👌🏾 👌🏾 ❤️😍🙏🏾👍🏾
You are so welcome!
Uuhhh Kim you're the best!! THANK YOU FOR THIS ❤❤❤❤❤
you're welcome Tania
So helpful. More of these videos Kim. Thanks.
Thank you! Will do!
Thank you very much this is a very helpful , detailed and informative video, I can't wait till I give this technique a try
Very helpful, Kim. Thanks very much
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you qnd evening...Easy to understand and will use this video always...FLO (South Africa
Thank you! I'm very new to sewing and this explanation was so easy to understand!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much
I'm about to make clothes in bulk and different sizes
Thanks so much for this information. I’m new to grading patterns and this is very helpful. New follower her ☺️
You are so welcome!
I love your timing 😁 you're the best I swear 🤩🤩 thank you Priscilla 💕
😍YOU MAKE ITLOOK SOOO EASY! THANK YOU KIM
Thank you for this tutorial, it is very practical and easy to follow, however, I do not quite understand how to curve the back neckline.
This is so helpful! Thank you for creating this tutorial. May I know what kind of ruler you are using?
Great illustrations. Very understandable
Thank u dear, as M going to sew for ppl with bigger size, u really did help m😭
Hi Kim. This was great information!
Thank you for sharing, very well explained 🙏
This was such a useful and informative video explained soo beautifully. God bless you my dear. Thanks a lot
My pleasure 😊
In the US we use this method for multiple size patterns. It’s interesting to see it done with a single block.
Thanks for sharing 🙏
Great but what was needed here is to show the adjustment for sleeve for the sizing up and down for the bodice as well.
Thanks for your excellent & easy to understand tutorial; 100/100%👍
Glad it was helpful!
Extremely helpful. Thanks 👍
Thank you so much for the guidelines!
You are so welcome!
wow, sooo very helpful, THANK U!! form Metro Vancouver, BC ❤️🇨🇦❤️
You are so welcome!
Awesome thanks.
lovely explanation but i would argue about the darts, because in 3 or 4 sizes down or up it could slide out of the pattern i would rather use the scary word "math" or rather move it proportionally so the pattern would retain it's shape and seem lines on the same place
measure distance horizontally edge to edge and from the non graded edge to the middle of the dart and divide total length by the partial one
after grading the outline measure the pattern horisontally at the same level then divide the lenght by the previously calculated ratio
i belive if you grade something just one size up or down this is not really needed, but going 2 or 3 sizes might get interested
i would also like to point out that horisontal darts should also grade in width to avoid exaturating or dulling down the effect they have on overal shape
i mostly worked with stretchy fabrics and tightfiting clothes for cosplay purposes and and it was a nightmare to grade every time when the person i made something needed an update in size after winter :] in many cases it was making entire thing from scratch but sometimes only sizing down
Thank you for sharing amazing tips about making patterns 🥰🥰🥰🥰
You’re always welcome 🤗
Thank you so much I've learned new techniques much appreciated kim
You’re welcome ☺️
Thank you, this was very helpful
Kim Dave, thank you so much🤧🥰
You’re welcome ☺️
Thank you so much for this video.... you did justice to it.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for sharing 👌🏽👏🏽
You are so welcome
Thank you for this tutorial 😊
You’re welcome 😊
Thank you the video is really helpful you made it easy to understand
Glad you found the video helpful
This was very helpful
Amazing . Thank you ! 😄
Could you please make an entire video on grading in cm? Thank you!🌷
Thank you
super Kim
Iam pattern cutter
Thanks a lot dear
so there are some general measurements to apply for grading? i didn't know it, i thought it was different for each garment. so if you started from a M size we can say that you added a L and S size, right?
Does the measurements for increasing/decreasing stay the same for all sizes? Like could i use this method for sizes 0-16? And are skirts done the same way as the pants?
You're the best 💪👍👍
thank you
Great tortorial, but confusing if one is using centeneters.
When you grade up, do you re-adjust the darts? Like, move it more to the side seam. I prefer to use and pivot method, but sometimes the darts are not in the right place.
Yes I move the dart towards the side seam as I grade the pattern uo
would the bodice tutorial work for a dress pattern? the pattern I'm using doesn't have a separate skirt and bodice piece so it's for the full body
what if the difference between the pattern measurements versus the clients are like a 3 in bust difference, 2 inch waist difference, and a 4 in hip difference?
Hello, love your videos! I what about the sleeves ? Do you mark those up when making the bodice bigger?
Just love you💕 Can you convert a skirt block to a trouser PLEASE
I think you can actually, from the hipline you can add the crotch depth and centre front curve. And after that, mark half of around thigh, knee and hemline dimensions from side seam respectively
Also shaping the waistline might be good too
If I were to grade a sleeve to a shirt how much would I go up or down
Thank you!
You're welcome!
how did you determine the difference from your side seam? did you take the different in your waist or hip measurement and divide that by 4?
Thank you for this super helpful video. Could you explain how you decided to add an extra 0.4 inches from the notch point on the arm curve? [@ 3:30] I am confused why you add it at the notch when it seems you can add a notch anywhere on the curve and therefor the extension could have been added from anywhere on the arm curve. Does it matter? Thanks!
The basic concept of grading is the same as yours. How you went about it is similar to how I will do it by hand or with CAD. what differs is the grade rules, that is the amount one chooses to increase or reduce the pattern at each point.
However, I will like to say that in your case where the half front girth grows by 0.5", the point at the armhole (that you graded 0.4" to the right) shouldn't grade beyond 0.25".
The reason is that the ACROSS CHEST width in a full front will usually grow by 0.5" when the full FRONT BUST ARC grows by 1". If you continue to grade more sizes up & down with 0.4", you will notice that the armhole will morph out of shape. The bigger sizes will have overly shallow armhole curves and the smaller sizes will be overly scooped out, both of which will impact fit.
Thank you so much for your amazing comment 😃
thank you so much 🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰
You’re welcome 😊
So you don't do anything to the inseam, only the outter seam? I am downsizing a basic pair of scrubs from XL to L.. Please advise and thank you. By the way, we have the exact same "real" nails....mine will grow to about 6 inches but because I like to sew, and a bunch of other things I keep them the same length as yours.
I’m new to sewing but, have some patterns my size that my daughter like so, I’ve tried to reduce the pattern to fit her (I’m a 14, she’s a 4) 😳and I’m just wondering for the pants, why wouldn’t you adjust the crotch for a smaller size? Is it because it’s adjusted from the waistline?
THANK YOUUUUUUU❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
you're welcome 😊
I really want to create patch jeans out of jeans I already have but making them a mom jean instead of skinny how imma do it idk but this helps a lot.
Good work but you didn’t touch the trouser crotch the sizes will affect the crotch as well.
Brilliant tutorial! Can I ask where your curve gadget (ruler) is from? So much better than mine.
thanks Constance. I got mine from Morplan www.morplan.com/gb_en/patternmaster-pro
@@KimDave thank you 😊
Thank you so much this has been extremely helpful but why don’t you grade the rise/ crotch of the trousers block. Thanks
You're welcome. I think grading the crotch of the trouser will just make the crotch line lower every time you add extra measurement to it.
thank you so much this was very very helpful, I am gonna use the grading for upper bodice do I have to use the same measurement for back bodice as well. Would really appreciate a reply
you're welcome. Yes you can use the same technique for the back bodice pattern
Could you use this technique to grade up a vintage pattern that is too small to fit me?
I need to get from 36" to 41" bust.
What about the sleeve pattern that goes with the bodice pattern ?! Are you planning on making a pdf pattern to sell and will you be doing a video on how to grade sleeves ?!
I just might make one and add to my online store.
exactly what I needed. thank you! are these measurements the standards used in industry as you said some people add 1 inch side seam. and so forth if you do decide to use 1 inch side seam would that mean you double the rest of measurements ?
I did learn how to make and grade patterns in centimetres, however you can grade in inches. As long you provide the size dimensions for your clients to see in a size chart
Fab
Does grading mean altering sizes on top and bottom? I am small on top and big on the bottom and I’m just learning how to make my own block pattern but I’m not sure what size to create. For reference I am size 12 on top and size 16 on bottom, any help or advice would really be appreciated and I’m still watching your video!
Typically grading means increasing or reducing the pattern to the next size. You will most likely have to combine sizes to fit your body comfortably.
Hey. So how are sleeves graded? Could you please help me out with that
This technic looks easier. Thank you very much!
Can you please share a link where to buy your pattern master?
You’re welcome Jennifer.
I got mine from Amazon years ago
See similar here www.amazon.co.uk/ArtWay-Pattern-Master-Maker-Design/dp/B07N66ZWLR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1N4YJFQ8VWS42&keywords=pattern+master&qid=1645362281&sprefix=pattern+master+%2Caps%2C62&sr=8-3
Why don't we grade the folkpoints?
This was brilliantly easy to follow, thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Hw to do patterns wtht taking measurements only size
Hello have you heard of the pivot and slide method? to adjust a pattern
Oh no I haven't heard of that. How does it work?
I'm curious about the trouser... what's the reasoning for not grading the rise I guess its called. The seam that woukd go around the abdomen, between the legs and bottom. I'm grading a pattern up and want to make sure its deep enough, but I guess just adding to the outside is enough? Comments and advice on this question are infinitly appreciated!
My challenge is grading from a block 34 to 60. Im struggling
What about the back of the bodice and trouser? DId I miss this
The same rules apply to the back of the bodice & trouser
Can you do a size 10 pattern
Does the patterns include seam allowance?
No it doesn’t
Hello Kim, what if grading two sizes up
Hi Grace. For two sizes up, you can either repeat the steps twice or double the amount by which you grade from your original pattern. Hope this helps
Please if i’m to grade lower than size 8 am i to go lower too?
Yes you just continue to grade lower for smaller sizes
@@KimDave ok thank you 😊
😘😘😘😘😘😘😘😘😘