!! OH I love your videos, your voice is very clear and you speak and finish the sentence. Why am I saying that ?? because it is important to be able to understand everything you explain. Very good videos and explanation. Thank you Lady.
This has helped me so much i was always confused about how to increase the size of patterns as i am between sizes. This tutorial has given me the confidence to tackle my project.
Fantastic video, I'm a pear shape & have to adjust patterns but never seem to get them right, this makes total sense to me now, you explained it so well I completely understand what I need to do now! Thank you soooo much! 😀
Amy Hart Hi Amy, oh I am so pleased! Thank you so much. Just so pleased you found it useful. I have spent the afternoon editing it and re-watching the video hoping that it makes sense to everyone. It's always hard to know how to get the information across clearly! Thanks so much, Aneka x
This is perfect! For most patterns (commercial and independent) the smallest size tends to be too large for me, so thank you so much for this tutorial!
Thank you so much for this and the pattern too. The examples given by the lady were almost identical to mine so I am happy that I can enlargen this pattern accurately . Your tutorials are brilliant . I have learnt so much from you .
Hi thank you for your tutorials. They are so instructive. I started sewing again since I have been seeing your videos. I am going to do the copen dress now.BIg thanks again.Keep up the Good work. By the way I am from Malta a small island in the Mediterranean sea.
Hi Anna, so lovely to meet you here! I am SO pleased that you like my tutorials and find them useful. Thank you for your lovely words. Wishing you all the best with your sewing. Aneka x
Hello Anke , BRILLIANT as usual . Many thanks yr explanations make me understand what I have been trying to figure out for a very long time 😅. THANK YOU !
Hi, great tutorial!! Might be worth saying too that after calico is made and tweaked, it is important to transfer those little changes to the newly altered pattern.
Hi there, thanks for mentioning this, really appreciated. I am going to film videos on making a calico etc. So hopefully this will help too. Thanks, Aneka x
If you don't have any references then you may need to apply proper grading rules. Depending on how many sizes you need to grade up? Like what you would do in the fashion industry or for a professional sewing pattern. I don't have a video on this at the moment, do you have any pattern drafting books you can use / follow?
Hi I love all your videos they're so helpful to a new sewer like me. I am size 4 ready to wear so struggle with patterns sometimes. Could you do a video explaining how to get your calico tuile adjustments and how to then transfer them back to the pattern to make the adjusted garment, thank you again xx
Hi there, I am so pleased you like the tutorial. When I am making a calico toile I would first take my measurements (like this video: ruclips.net/video/Fbw5AwnBX0s/видео.html) and then adjust the flat pattern to get it as close to your measurements as possible. You measurements may span over a couple of different sizes? (I cover how to adjust the pattern to your measurements in this video. I also talk about finished garment measurements ruclips.net/video/MAlNjEWx9YU/видео.html) After I have corrected the flat pattern I would then make a calico toile. I hope some of those videos help. I will try and film something on how to amend fitting issues, I will need to get some models. Or maybe I could do something with the community, everyone on here a live video or something. Will look into it! Aneka xx
Made to Sew Thank you Aneka for you quick and informative response. You are just fabulous. I will just do it and like you say in cheap calico it won't matter with mistakes. I just get frozen and it prevents me from doing it. Practise practise. Thank you again you really do make sewing easier the way you break it all down xx
Sounds like a great idea. And don't worry about making a mistake, I think we all get caught up about not making a mistake or having a problem, but that is how you learn!! As you said practise, practise! Wishing you all the best, Aneka x
The sleeve curves seem off. It took me a minute to figure out what it was, but I did. When grading up, one is to follow the angle of the extending sizes, drawing lines from one to the other. In the armholes, the lines made by the inside curves converge, and the dots should end up closer together instead of the same distance apart; this corrects the curve of the arm seam.
Hi there, I think I understand your question. Do you mean that you need the follow the shape of the line for the sizes? So around the armhole there is a larger amount graded, at the bottom of the armhole there is less graded? Does that make sense? I think you have solved your problem already? Thanks, Aneka
@@MadetoSew what she means is just look at any multisize commercial pattern.on the armhole curves the bigger size lines converge at a point and switch with smaller size lines this video is incorrect as far as the armhole goes.
@@roxielynn5289 Yes that is correct, I should have shown the front armhole of the pattern and the sleeve of this pattern because that would have shown this. What I am trying to say in the video is that that easiest way for someone to do this that has no knowledge is to copy what happened between the other sizes; using the closest sizes (whether they are larger or smaller than your size) as a guide. Thanks for pointing this out and sorry that I didn't think to show an area of a pattern where this happens. Really appreciate your comment here. Aneka x
Hello! @roxie lynn was super kind to explain the issue here. I am very sorry that I didn't show the front armhole or sleeve of the pattern where the lines swap and the larger sizes become lower on the pattern at the base of the armhole. The key rule is that you follow the difference between the sizes above or below what you are changes. If they move from being above the size to be below the size then you need to do the same thing. I hope that helps? And thank you for pointing this out. Aneka x
Brilliant thank you so much I always need to grade up and you have provided so much useful informative directions, thank you for giving me the inspiration to do this your video shows my measurements exactly and I never thought this would be possible to grade now I feel more empowered to tackle the patterns which I like not just looking through plus sized! I love watching your videos and gaining inspiration from you.
Thank you for sharing such kind words. I am SO pleased that I have been able to help you. I wish you all the best with your grading and any questions let me know. Aneka x
That was great! It’s exactly what I’ve been doing to my patterns so that’s good. Incidentally, the woman’s measurements you used are exactly mine atm, lol.
Thank for your videos. I love them all and reference them way too often lol. My question is I have a bigger bust so when pattern grading I’m always going down for waist and bust so have a bit of difficulty. Some videos say grade from bottom of bust dart others say close the dart and then grade. What do you think? Is there a right or wrong way or is it preference? I so value your opinion.
Hi Kimberly, It really depends on the shape of the pattern. You do need to make sure that the dart when closed doesn't have an angular finish to it. For example if you have graded from below the dart, you could have a bit of an angle over the dart. So you do need to close the dart and aim for a smooth transition, but ideally you don't want to be taking / removing much (if any) fabric from where the dart is because this will change the size of the bust of the garment. Sorry, that probably doesn't help. Most of the time it isn't going to be a drastic different in doing either option. And just consider what I mentioned above, smooth transition and not taking much (if any) as you pass over the dart. Then hopefully you can make it work! Aneka x
Thank you. Sometimes I just feel so confused lol. I buy many sheets at the thrift store and do make mock ups but yes I understand now on to the thrift store.
What if you don’t have a multi-sized pattern to measure between the sizes? How would you know how much to grade up or down between the sizes? I have a vintage pattern which only came in one size. I am only needing to move one size in either direction so it won’t be that hard, but I still don’t have a point of reference where I should start. Thank you for any help!
Hi Diane, of course. I would measure yourself and compare your measurements to that of the pattern. The difference between your measurements and those of the pattern, divide by 4 and add onto the side seams at the Bust, Waist and Hip. Do you have markings for these areas? Does this helps? Aneka x
Great idea, thank you. In the meantime I have a free pattern you can download: www.madetosew.com/product/copen-shift-dress-top/ with tutorial ruclips.net/video/ASKmwy7xklk/видео.html and I will be showing pattern cutting tips for amending this. I hope you will find that useful. Aneka :-))
Hi it is me again. I have just cut the Copen pattern and I need to shorten it by 2 inches from the hem, can I shorten from the hemline so that I will not distort the darts at the waistline. Thanks waiting for your reply to start seeing. So excited to start.!!!
Hi Anna, have you checked your Back Length measurement against the pattern Back Length? If your back length is shorter than the pattern then you will need to adjust it at the Lengthen and Shorten line above the waist. This will make sure that the waist is in the right place for you. If your Back Length is the same as the pattern then you can adjust it below the waist. You can remove it at the hem but ONLY on this pattern or another pattern that is a straight skirt. Otherwise it would distort the garment shaping. Does that make sense? I actually have a video on how to lengthen / shorten a pattern coming tomorrow! Aneka x
I’m trying to grade a pattern my bust is 36 waist is 36 and hips are 38 I don’t have problems with the hips it’s the difference between the bust and waist pattern says for bust at 36 your waist is 28-30 so for my waist I’d have to slide over to a size44-46 bust size for the waist in 65 years I never had to alter a pattern like this maybe shorten or lengthen but I guess I finally got that old age spread so I’ve got to accommodate it lol 😆 happy sewing 🧵 to you
Thank you very much that is so helpfull like always could you help me to know about the ease how l can used at the basic measurment when l drow the pattern myself means after drowing or before and thanks alot
Hi there, if you watch this tutorial I explain about how ease. How to find the finished garment measurements and the best way to work with them: ruclips.net/video/MAlNjEWx9YU/видео.html I do hope it helps? Aneka
Hi Aneka, I love your videos, they're so helpful. If I'm grading down a size, would I need to adjust the bust and waist darts as well or that can be covered by the SBA? Thanks
I often have to do this because of my small bust and larger waist/hips. However, it gets very tricky for me when it comes to grading and blending sizes when there are bust darts (for instance). If want to keep the bust at a size 6, but grade out to size 7 in the waist and there are bust darts, do I keep the bust dart at size 6 and then blend right below from 6 to 7?
Hi Megan, lovely to hear from you. It can be tricky blending between a size 6 at the Bust and size 7 at the Waist depending on where the darts are positioned. For Copen I would recommend that you choose a size 6 for the dart (if your bust is a size 6 you want to make sure you use the size 6 dart so that the end of the dart is correct for your bust). Then blend from the bottom of the dart to the size 7 at the waist. You will need to re-true the dart which may change the outside V shape of the dart. Does that make sense? If you have a dart on a pattern that is closer to the waist you may have to blend between a size 6 and 7 across the dart. I would always keep the point or apex of the dart at a size 6, but you could tape the dart closed. Draw from a size 6 at the underarm to a size 7 at the waist. I would wheel over the drawn line that crosses the dart with a tracing wheel now to true the dart and get the correct outside V shape. Open up the dart again and then connect the dart point or apex to the edges of the V shape that has been trued. The legs may change position slightly if you have increase the size across the dart. I hope this helps? Aneka x
Hi there! With kids patterns it will depend on how much you are grading it up. If you are grading a size or two then you will get away with it. But if it is a lot of sizes then it might not work. You also have to think about your shape compared to a kids shape, teens and adults are a different shape to children. In womenswear females generally have more curves, a cup for the bust is drafted and shaping through the waist and hip area, which doesn't happen on kids clothing. I hope this helps? Aneka
Hi Madison, in this tutorial I just move them (the same amount as the pattern does, between the previous sizes). Of course this isn't officially 'grading'; if I was making a pattern to sell. It just helps people use the information in front of them to get the sizing right. Once I have done this I would then chest the Bust apex, and you can use this tutorial: ruclips.net/video/0srC1njcaE4/видео.html to vheck and reposition the bust dart. You can do the same for the waist dart. Aneka
9:02 the shape of the arm scye has completely changed from smallest to largest size. If you continued "grading" in this manner it would end up a straight line. This method of grading is all over youtube and I'm not convinced. It may work for a small grading - one or two sizes - but beyond that the distortion would be unworkable. If the industry is using this method to grade their patterns, then I'm not surprised how ill-fitting larger commercial garments and patterns are.
Hi Melanie, GREAT question. Of course you should not keep grading in this manner. It is really a 'quick fix' for dressmaking patterns. Usually I would teach it to a student that had bought a pattern and it didn't quite fit, so you would be increasing by one or two sizes. This is not 'proper grading', but it is an easy way for people to go up or or two sizes. You are also right in saying that a lot of industry garments don't fit, because they try and grade up too many sizes. I have 2 'base' sizes that I grade from, a smaller size and then a larger size for my new patterns. As human's increase in size not everything increases so you have to careful with sizing and grading - but this takes extra time and therefore money!
@@MadetoSew Thanks so much for confirming this. I've tried all sorts of methods to increase the size of vintage small patterns (which are usually one size only and not multisize so can't be graded using a continuous line following the sizing access points - I hope you know what I mean). Usually trying to increase from as little as a bust 34" to a bust 40". I've had limited success and it usually requires lots of fiddling and even with the most careful calculations I have to fudge the makeup stage to get everything to align. The first garment made is usually not great and I adjust again for a second garment... it's a labour of love! Or perhaps I just can't bear to be defeated! I enjoy pattern drafting tho, so that's a mercy. I'm talking about relatively simple patterns btw. I wouldn't attempt something with a lot of swathes of drape-type gathers. Yes, the problem is often around the neck, the shoulder width, the arm scyes and the cup size - all tricky points for fit and regrading. It also doesn't help that my size keeps fluctuating, so just when I've got a vintage pattern right, I've put on weight or lost weight and can't fit it anymore! I wish I had more knowledge. Training. I wish I could learn pattern drafting etc from professionals. I have Donald McCunn's book on pattern making and also Miss Haslams stuff. I haven't bothered with Haslam because although I have quite a few of her patterns, I can tell by looking at the pattern that they don't match the illustrations of the garments! The illustrations show very full, sumptuous Hollywood skirts and the patterns show very narrow A-lines! Thanks very much for responding so positively. After I'd made this comment, I felt a bit unsure that it might sound like I was criticising your video instructions - this wasn't my intention - I agree with you that this method works well and is very helpful for modern multisize patterns that you just need to go up or down a size or two at most. Best wishes and thank you for all your excellent videos. Mel xx :)
@@MelanieMaguire Thanks Mel. I totally get what you mean with the vintage patterns. A number of years ago I had a lady attend a class with the MOST beautiful vintage jacket pattern, of course it was one size. In this case it was too large for me, so I tried to grade it down. However like you I still had issues with the fit of the garment in the sample. I actually ended up copying the draft on my own block, I came to the conclusion that the proportions the pattern was drafted for is different to today's proportions. For example, I got the bust, waist to work but the shoulders were still very wrong, so I think that bust, waist proportion against shoulder size was different to what it is now. Probably because we have got larger but our shoulders haven't? A very interesting exercise! Anyway, I wish you all the best with your sewing and vintage patterns. Thank you for taking the time to comment and share your sewing projects. Aneka xx
@@MelanieMaguire I am in the process of launching a range of online classes on my website (www.madetosew.com). Starting with skirt pattern drafting. I hope to have something ready in 2-3 weeks. Then I will work through some sewing, some pattern drafting, some fitting classes. Aneka x
Made to Sew - oh! Aneka... cool. .. you know, it was 1997 when I was pregnant, and the name just popped into my head... my husband said "yeah! where did you find that name?!"
Made to Sew - how about that! Well, I have met Ah - ni - kas, and Ah - nee - kas - and long Ah is associated with a Norse/Swede version which means "big/ bold, " and another from Africa, which means "beautiful girl." Very auspicious name. Thank you for the French seam sleeve tutorial - I have some tips to take advantage of that tidy seam now...
Hi, could you please help me with a princess seam top that I am making? I have made it up in calico, however the front of the top fits lovely but at the back (which will have a zip inserted all the way down) it fits well until about 3/4 of the way down when there doesn't appear to be enough fabric to close it. How do I make it bigger? Hope you can help!
Hi Aneka, thank you for your reply. I have managed to solve my problem by adding an extra inch either side of the zip that goes all the way down the back of the blouse. It now fits perfectly. Sometimes just playing around with it can solve a problem. Also I have just purchased a body form which is an enormous help when making clothes to fit. I love your channel and have learnt so much. Once again thank you for getting back.
Hello, it depends on what pattern you are working with? You will need to compare your measurements to the pattern you are working with. Not all patterns are the same unfortunately, there is no such thing as standard sizing. Aneka
Hi Vivian, it's a little more tricky. You will need to work out how much smaller you want the pattern to be, then you will need to divide that by 4 seams (the side seams, front and back, x 2). And reduce the pattern that way. Does it make sense? Aneka
You will need to decide on how much you want to add or remove. Then divide this by 4 (because most of the time you will grade at the side seams, and there are 4 side seams, front x 2 and back x 2). Then remove or add to those seams. Does that clear it up? Let me know what you don't understand. Thank you, Aneka
Hi Judi, Then you might need to do a Full Bust Adjustment to a smaller size pattern? Have you watched this video: ruclips.net/video/UoiMxhN_H8Y/видео.html
Hi Lisa, if you had a group of sizes you can copy the size below to grade up to down. In children's wear like in women's wear you will find that the grading usually jumps in larger increments between some sizes. But at least this is a starting point if you can't find a pattern in the right size. Aneka :-))
Hi Sarah, that is a little more tricky. You will need to create and understand the grading rules that you want to apply to the pattern. Perhaps I should do a video on grading? Aneka
Unfortunately there is no 'right' size guide. You can look at what other companies use. But a size 8 for example doesn't need to be a specific size. Every company will work from a different base - depending on who their target customer is. Hope this helps? Aneka
Sorry, a little unsure of your question? This tutorial simply teaches how to grade on commercial dressmaking patterns that already exist, so how to increase or decrease the sizes. It is not a tutorial that shows how to grade a pattern professionally.
Who measures a size 42 inches bust for a size 5 ? When I was a size 5 I had a bust of 34 inches and waist of 24 inches hips of 36 inches. Where did you get these size of clothes
Thanks for your question. Sorry for the confusion, these are not high street sizes, they come from the Made to Sew Copen pattern which has it's own sizing numbered from 0 upwards in an endeavour to encourage people to measure themselves and work with their own measurements rather than pick the size they think they are. This helps to get a better fitting garment.
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!! OH I love your videos, your voice is very clear and you speak and finish the sentence. Why am I saying that ?? because it is important to be able to understand everything you explain. Very good videos and explanation. Thank you Lady.
Thank you so much for taking the time to write such a lovely message. Huge thank you, and glad you like them. Aneka x
This has helped me so much i was always confused about how to increase the size of patterns as i am between sizes. This tutorial has given me the confidence to tackle my project.
So glad I could help. Good luck with your project!
Fantastic video, I'm a pear shape & have to adjust patterns but never seem to get them right, this makes total sense to me now, you explained it so well I completely understand what I need to do now! Thank you soooo much! 😀
Amy Hart Hi Amy, oh I am so pleased! Thank you so much. Just so pleased you found it useful. I have spent the afternoon editing it and re-watching the video hoping that it makes sense to everyone. It's always hard to know how to get the information across clearly! Thanks so much, Aneka x
Wonderful video! This is the first time ever that I have fully understood the grading of patterns. Thanks so very much!
So pleased I could help Joy.
This is the first time I’ve seen how to degrade the pattern and you explained it really well!
Glad I could help. Aneka x
I bought a book on grading and degrading and you couldn’t explain it more better than the book.
Really pleased it helped. Good luck! Aneka
I needed to size my pattern up one size, and was planning on just faking it but this was so easy and helpful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
This is perfect! For most patterns (commercial and independent) the smallest size tends to be too large for me, so thank you so much for this tutorial!
Hi Nora, I am so pleased I could help. Good luck! Aneka
Thank you so much for this and the pattern too. The examples given by the lady were almost identical to mine so I am happy that I can enlargen this pattern accurately . Your tutorials are brilliant . I have learnt so much from you .
Thank so much. Glad it was helpful!
You live in my head and now tackling my biggest problems first the dart, now grading, what's next? Can't wait!!!!!
So pleased I can help you, just at the right time too! Next tutorial is how to lengthen and shorten a pattern. Coming on Wednesday! Aneka
I keep coming back again & again! Very easy to follow tutorial. Thank you!
Thanks Maria and glad I could help.
Hi thank you for your tutorials. They are so instructive. I started sewing again since I have been seeing your videos. I am going to do the copen dress now.BIg thanks again.Keep up the Good work. By the way I am from Malta a small island in the Mediterranean sea.
Hi Anna, so lovely to meet you here! I am SO pleased that you like my tutorials and find them useful. Thank you for your lovely words. Wishing you all the best with your sewing. Aneka x
Hello Anke ,
BRILLIANT as usual . Many thanks yr explanations make me understand what I have been trying to figure out for a very long time 😅.
THANK YOU !
Aurora26 so pleased you liked it. Thanks so much and good luck with your sewing. Aneka x
Hi, great tutorial!! Might be worth saying too that after calico is made and tweaked, it is important to transfer those little changes to the newly altered pattern.
Hi there, thanks for mentioning this, really appreciated. I am going to film videos on making a calico etc. So hopefully this will help too. Thanks, Aneka x
You're very welcome, Aneka! It is hard enough to alter patterns, without forgetting to do this! Your tutorials are great.
Thank you so much, that is really kind.
Your explanation of this is perfect. Thank you for this tutorial.
So pleased I could help. Thank you.
This technique seems far superior to the "cut up the pattern piece" approach, cannot wait to try it on my larger figured students.
Thanks Ramon. Good luck!
I need to grade up a 1 size vintage pattern. What would be done differently as I wone have other sizes lines to reference?
If you don't have any references then you may need to apply proper grading rules. Depending on how many sizes you need to grade up? Like what you would do in the fashion industry or for a professional sewing pattern. I don't have a video on this at the moment, do you have any pattern drafting books you can use / follow?
So clear and easy to understand.
Thank you. 💟
Glad I could help.
Hi I love all your videos they're so helpful to a new sewer like me. I am size 4 ready to wear so struggle with patterns sometimes. Could you do a video explaining how to get your calico tuile adjustments and how to then transfer them back to the pattern to make the adjusted garment, thank you again xx
Hi there, I am so pleased you like the tutorial. When I am making a calico toile I would first take my measurements (like this video: ruclips.net/video/Fbw5AwnBX0s/видео.html) and then adjust the flat pattern to get it as close to your measurements as possible. You measurements may span over a couple of different sizes? (I cover how to adjust the pattern to your measurements in this video. I also talk about finished garment measurements ruclips.net/video/MAlNjEWx9YU/видео.html) After I have corrected the flat pattern I would then make a calico toile. I hope some of those videos help. I will try and film something on how to amend fitting issues, I will need to get some models. Or maybe I could do something with the community, everyone on here a live video or something. Will look into it! Aneka xx
Made to Sew Thank you Aneka for you quick and informative response. You are just fabulous. I will just do it and like you say in cheap calico it won't matter with mistakes. I just get frozen and it prevents me from doing it. Practise practise. Thank you again you really do make sewing easier the way you break it all down xx
Sounds like a great idea. And don't worry about making a mistake, I think we all get caught up about not making a mistake or having a problem, but that is how you learn!! As you said practise, practise! Wishing you all the best, Aneka x
The sleeve curves seem off. It took me a minute to figure out what it was, but I did. When grading up, one is to follow the angle of the extending sizes, drawing lines from one to the other. In the armholes, the lines made by the inside curves converge, and the dots should end up closer together instead of the same distance apart; this corrects the curve of the arm seam.
Hi there, I think I understand your question. Do you mean that you need the follow the shape of the line for the sizes? So around the armhole there is a larger amount graded, at the bottom of the armhole there is less graded? Does that make sense? I think you have solved your problem already? Thanks, Aneka
@@MadetoSew what she means is just look at any multisize commercial pattern.on the armhole curves the bigger size lines converge at a point and switch with smaller size lines this video is incorrect as far as the armhole goes.
@@roxielynn5289 Yes that is correct, I should have shown the front armhole of the pattern and the sleeve of this pattern because that would have shown this. What I am trying to say in the video is that that easiest way for someone to do this that has no knowledge is to copy what happened between the other sizes; using the closest sizes (whether they are larger or smaller than your size) as a guide. Thanks for pointing this out and sorry that I didn't think to show an area of a pattern where this happens. Really appreciate your comment here. Aneka x
Hello! @roxie lynn was super kind to explain the issue here. I am very sorry that I didn't show the front armhole or sleeve of the pattern where the lines swap and the larger sizes become lower on the pattern at the base of the armhole. The key rule is that you follow the difference between the sizes above or below what you are changes. If they move from being above the size to be below the size then you need to do the same thing. I hope that helps? And thank you for pointing this out. Aneka x
Brilliant thank you so much I always need to grade up and you have provided so much useful informative directions, thank you for giving me the inspiration to do this your video shows my measurements exactly and I never thought this would be possible to grade now I feel more empowered to tackle the patterns which I like not just looking through plus sized! I love watching your videos and gaining inspiration from you.
Thank you for sharing such kind words. I am SO pleased that I have been able to help you. I wish you all the best with your grading and any questions let me know. Aneka x
That was great! It’s exactly what I’ve been doing to my patterns so that’s good. Incidentally, the woman’s measurements you used are exactly mine atm, lol.
Thank you, I'm pleased it confirmed what you have been doing. Always useful when the measurements match yours too!😃
Good news, Aneka, wish you the very best!
Thank you Isolde. Aneka x
Thank you so much , you made it so clear. Also for the time you put into helping others in teach us you skills.
Regards Alisa
Thank you so much Alisa. Aneka x
Greetings from Australia!Excellent Anika! Thoroughly enjoying your videos.
Gill💞🐨🦘
Thanks so much Gill. ❤️
Awesome, thank you! I had previously intuitively done this without any learning.. yayyy, I got it right!
So pleased! Yay! Aneka :-))
Thank for your videos. I love them all and reference them way too often lol. My question is I have a bigger bust so when pattern grading I’m always going down for waist and bust so have a bit of difficulty. Some videos say grade from bottom of bust dart others say close the dart and then grade. What do you think? Is there a right or wrong way or is it preference? I so value your opinion.
Hi Kimberly, It really depends on the shape of the pattern. You do need to make sure that the dart when closed doesn't have an angular finish to it. For example if you have graded from below the dart, you could have a bit of an angle over the dart.
So you do need to close the dart and aim for a smooth transition, but ideally you don't want to be taking / removing much (if any) fabric from where the dart is because this will change the size of the bust of the garment.
Sorry, that probably doesn't help. Most of the time it isn't going to be a drastic different in doing either option. And just consider what I mentioned above, smooth transition and not taking much (if any) as you pass over the dart. Then hopefully you can make it work! Aneka x
Thank you. Sometimes I just feel so confused lol. I buy many sheets at the thrift store and do make mock ups but yes I understand now on to the thrift store.
So simply explained and finally I understand thank you so much
Hi Linda, thank you for your lovely comments and I'm so glad you found the tutorial useful. Aneka x
Thank you Very Much!! This is just what I needed.
Great to hear!
What if you don’t have a multi-sized pattern to measure between the sizes? How would you know how much to grade up or down between the sizes? I have a vintage pattern which only came in one size. I am only needing to move one size in either direction so it won’t be that hard, but I still don’t have a point of reference where I should start. Thank you for any help!
Hi Diane, of course. I would measure yourself and compare your measurements to that of the pattern. The difference between your measurements and those of the pattern, divide by 4 and add onto the side seams at the Bust, Waist and Hip. Do you have markings for these areas? Does this helps? Aneka x
Hi, could you please make a tutorial on basic bodice pattern?
Great idea, thank you. In the meantime I have a free pattern you can download: www.madetosew.com/product/copen-shift-dress-top/ with tutorial ruclips.net/video/ASKmwy7xklk/видео.html and I will be showing pattern cutting tips for amending this. I hope you will find that useful. Aneka :-))
Thank you so much :)
Hey sis i thanks you for ur teaching in deed you are great. Thanks againt
You are so welcome.
Hi it is me again. I have just cut the Copen pattern and I need to shorten it by 2 inches from the hem, can I shorten from the hemline so that I will not distort the darts at the waistline. Thanks waiting for your reply to start seeing. So excited to start.!!!
Hi Anna, have you checked your Back Length measurement against the pattern Back Length? If your back length is shorter than the pattern then you will need to adjust it at the Lengthen and Shorten line above the waist. This will make sure that the waist is in the right place for you. If your Back Length is the same as the pattern then you can adjust it below the waist. You can remove it at the hem but ONLY on this pattern or another pattern that is a straight skirt. Otherwise it would distort the garment shaping. Does that make sense? I actually have a video on how to lengthen / shorten a pattern coming tomorrow! Aneka x
Hello Anke,Yes it was very helpful thank you but I will wait for the tutorial before I alter the pattern.ThanksAnna
Hi Anna, it will be up this afternoon. Thank you, Aneka
Thanks for the great video, it was nice and easy for me to follow
Happy to help. Aneka
Thank you thank you for an excellent tutorial!!
Thank you!
Thank you!! Thi make it o easy to understand ❤️
Glad I could help Michelle.
thank you very much, just what i needed to know xxx
So pleased it was helpful.
For stretchy fabric should we decrease the size than normal
Do you mean you are working with stretchy fabric using a pattern that's for a woven non stretch fabric? Then yes you would need to.
Very clearly explained. Thank you for sharing
Thank you! Aneka
I’m trying to grade a pattern my bust is 36 waist is 36 and hips are 38 I don’t have problems with the hips it’s the difference between the bust and waist pattern says for bust at 36 your waist is 28-30 so for my waist I’d have to slide over to a size44-46 bust size for the waist in 65 years I never had to alter a pattern like this maybe shorten or lengthen but I guess I finally got that old age spread so I’ve got to accommodate it lol 😆 happy sewing 🧵 to you
What you are doing is correct, you may find you need to come out for the waist, based on your shape. Make up a sample and check it.
Thank you very much that is so helpfull like always could you help me to know about the ease how l can used at the basic measurment when l drow the pattern myself means after drowing or before and thanks alot
Hi there, if you watch this tutorial I explain about how ease. How to find the finished garment measurements and the best way to work with them: ruclips.net/video/MAlNjEWx9YU/видео.html I do hope it helps? Aneka
Beautiful tutorial as usual.
Thanks.
Thank you Rosemary. :-))
Great video and very helpful. Thanks.
Hi Caroline, pleased I could help. Aneka :-))
Hi Aneka, I love your videos, they're so helpful. If I'm grading down a size, would I need to adjust the bust and waist darts as well or that can be covered by the SBA? Thanks
I often have to do this because of my small bust and larger waist/hips. However, it gets very tricky for me when it comes to grading and blending sizes when there are bust darts (for instance). If want to keep the bust at a size 6, but grade out to size 7 in the waist and there are bust darts, do I keep the bust dart at size 6 and then blend right below from 6 to 7?
Hi Megan, lovely to hear from you. It can be tricky blending between a size 6 at the Bust and size 7 at the Waist depending on where the darts are positioned. For Copen I would recommend that you choose a size 6 for the dart (if your bust is a size 6 you want to make sure you use the size 6 dart so that the end of the dart is correct for your bust). Then blend from the bottom of the dart to the size 7 at the waist. You will need to re-true the dart which may change the outside V shape of the dart. Does that make sense?
If you have a dart on a pattern that is closer to the waist you may have to blend between a size 6 and 7 across the dart. I would always keep the point or apex of the dart at a size 6, but you could tape the dart closed. Draw from a size 6 at the underarm to a size 7 at the waist. I would wheel over the drawn line that crosses the dart with a tracing wheel now to true the dart and get the correct outside V shape. Open up the dart again and then connect the dart point or apex to the edges of the V shape that has been trued. The legs may change position slightly if you have increase the size across the dart. I hope this helps? Aneka x
Thank you so much for your prompt reply. I greatly appreciate it. I will give this a go!
can this be done with kids patterns? like making kid's patterns fit a teen? im 17 and i really like those vintage babydoll dresses for toddlers
Hi there! With kids patterns it will depend on how much you are grading it up. If you are grading a size or two then you will get away with it. But if it is a lot of sizes then it might not work. You also have to think about your shape compared to a kids shape, teens and adults are a different shape to children. In womenswear females generally have more curves, a cup for the bust is drafted and shaping through the waist and hip area, which doesn't happen on kids clothing. I hope this helps? Aneka
Im familiar with grading but how do i properly place the dart to the new measurements? Like a diamond shaped waist dart and apex?
Hi Madison, in this tutorial I just move them (the same amount as the pattern does, between the previous sizes). Of course this isn't officially 'grading'; if I was making a pattern to sell. It just helps people use the information in front of them to get the sizing right. Once I have done this I would then chest the Bust apex, and you can use this tutorial: ruclips.net/video/0srC1njcaE4/видео.html to vheck and reposition the bust dart. You can do the same for the waist dart. Aneka
9:02 the shape of the arm scye has completely changed from smallest to largest size. If you continued
"grading" in this manner it would end up a straight line. This method of grading is all over youtube and I'm not convinced. It may work for a small grading - one or two sizes - but beyond that the distortion would be unworkable. If the industry is using this method to grade their patterns, then I'm not surprised how ill-fitting larger commercial garments and patterns are.
Hi Melanie, GREAT question. Of course you should not keep grading in this manner. It is really a 'quick fix' for dressmaking patterns. Usually I would teach it to a student that had bought a pattern and it didn't quite fit, so you would be increasing by one or two sizes. This is not 'proper grading', but it is an easy way for people to go up or or two sizes.
You are also right in saying that a lot of industry garments don't fit, because they try and grade up too many sizes. I have 2 'base' sizes that I grade from, a smaller size and then a larger size for my new patterns. As human's increase in size not everything increases so you have to careful with sizing and grading - but this takes extra time and therefore money!
@@MadetoSew Thanks so much for confirming this. I've tried all sorts of methods to increase the size of vintage small patterns (which are usually one size only and not multisize so can't be graded using a continuous line following the sizing access points - I hope you know what I mean). Usually trying to increase from as little as a bust 34" to a bust 40". I've had limited success and it usually requires lots of fiddling and even with the most careful calculations I have to fudge the makeup stage to get everything to align. The first garment made is usually not great and I adjust again for a second garment... it's a labour of love! Or perhaps I just can't bear to be defeated! I enjoy pattern drafting tho, so that's a mercy. I'm talking about relatively simple patterns btw. I wouldn't attempt something with a lot of swathes of drape-type gathers. Yes, the problem is often around the neck, the shoulder width, the arm scyes and the cup size - all tricky points for fit and regrading. It also doesn't help that my size keeps fluctuating, so just when I've got a vintage pattern right, I've put on weight or lost weight and can't fit it anymore!
I wish I had more knowledge. Training. I wish I could learn pattern drafting etc from professionals. I have Donald McCunn's book on pattern making and also Miss Haslams stuff. I haven't bothered with Haslam because although I have quite a few of her patterns, I can tell by looking at the pattern that they don't match the illustrations of the garments! The illustrations show very full, sumptuous Hollywood skirts and the patterns show very narrow A-lines!
Thanks very much for responding so positively. After I'd made this comment, I felt a bit unsure that it might sound like I was criticising your video instructions - this wasn't my intention - I agree with you that this method works well and is very helpful for modern multisize patterns that you just need to go up or down a size or two at most. Best wishes and thank you for all your excellent videos. Mel xx :)
Do you hold workshops or courses? Thanks :)
@@MelanieMaguire Thanks Mel. I totally get what you mean with the vintage patterns. A number of years ago I had a lady attend a class with the MOST beautiful vintage jacket pattern, of course it was one size. In this case it was too large for me, so I tried to grade it down. However like you I still had issues with the fit of the garment in the sample. I actually ended up copying the draft on my own block, I came to the conclusion that the proportions the pattern was drafted for is different to today's proportions. For example, I got the bust, waist to work but the shoulders were still very wrong, so I think that bust, waist proportion against shoulder size was different to what it is now. Probably because we have got larger but our shoulders haven't? A very interesting exercise! Anyway, I wish you all the best with your sewing and vintage patterns. Thank you for taking the time to comment and share your sewing projects. Aneka xx
@@MelanieMaguire I am in the process of launching a range of online classes on my website (www.madetosew.com). Starting with skirt pattern drafting. I hope to have something ready in 2-3 weeks. Then I will work through some sewing, some pattern drafting, some fitting classes. Aneka x
Thank you, so much Anika! As a side note, my daughter is named "Anika" (Ann - i - ka!) I
Hi April. You are welcome, I'm so glad you liked the video. And oh wow, I love hearing how other people spell it! Thank you, Aneka.
Made to Sew - oh! Aneka... cool. .. you know, it was 1997 when I was pregnant, and the name just popped into my head... my husband said "yeah! where did you find that name?!"
So lovely to hear April, I was named after a signer in the 80's called Aneka! :-))
Made to Sew - how about that! Well, I have met Ah - ni - kas, and Ah - nee - kas - and long Ah is associated with a Norse/Swede version which means "big/ bold, " and another from Africa, which means "beautiful girl." Very auspicious name. Thank you for the French seam sleeve tutorial - I have some tips to take advantage of that tidy seam now...
So lovely to hear this, I do believe it is a Norse/Swede name originally! So pleased I could help you. Aneka x
Excellent tutorial
Thank you for your working with inches!! Yea!!
Hi, could you please help me with a princess seam top that I am making? I have made it up in calico, however the front of the top fits lovely but at the back (which will have a zip inserted all the way down) it fits well until about 3/4 of the way down when there doesn't appear to be enough fabric to close it. How do I make it bigger? Hope you can help!
Hi Aneka, thank you for your reply. I have managed to solve my problem by adding an extra inch either side of the zip that goes all the way down the back of the blouse. It now fits perfectly. Sometimes just playing around with it can solve a problem. Also I have just purchased a body form which is an enormous help when making clothes to fit. I love your channel and have learnt so much. Once again thank you for getting back.
Hi Elaine, Oh I am so pleased you managed to solve this. Wonderful news. Thank you for your kind words. Aneka x
Love your video, I need your help
Want size am I
These are my measurements : B =36, W=34, H= 40
Thanks in anticipation
Hello, it depends on what pattern you are working with? You will need to compare your measurements to the pattern you are working with. Not all patterns are the same unfortunately, there is no such thing as standard sizing. Aneka
What about for patterns that only have one size. How do I down grade that?
Hi Vivian, it's a little more tricky. You will need to work out how much smaller you want the pattern to be, then you will need to divide that by 4 seams (the side seams, front and back, x 2). And reduce the pattern that way. Does it make sense? Aneka
Can you explain this? I couldn’t understand
You will need to decide on how much you want to add or remove. Then divide this by 4 (because most of the time you will grade at the side seams, and there are 4 side seams, front x 2 and back x 2). Then remove or add to those seams. Does that clear it up? Let me know what you don't understand. Thank you, Aneka
This is great. However, what if I am small all over and yet have a big chest. This is my problem.
Hi Judi, Then you might need to do a Full Bust Adjustment to a smaller size pattern? Have you watched this video: ruclips.net/video/UoiMxhN_H8Y/видео.html
this was very helpful!!
I am so glad you found the tutorial useful, thank you! Aneka x
This may be a silly question but.... Does this apply to a child’s pattern too? xx
Hi Lisa, if you had a group of sizes you can copy the size below to grade up to down. In children's wear like in women's wear you will find that the grading usually jumps in larger increments between some sizes. But at least this is a starting point if you can't find a pattern in the right size. Aneka :-))
Thanks so much Anika!!!
Thank you xx
Brilliant! Thank you 😀
Thank you Jo. Aneka
So, I assume this works the same for children's clothing?
Yes Maria, just pick the sizes you want to increase and look at the finish sizes of that size. Hope that helps. Aneka x
Good job
👍
thanks! makes sense!!!!!!
Thank you.
How do you grade up a pattern that doesn't have other sizes on it so you can't measure between them?
Hi Sarah, that is a little more tricky. You will need to create and understand the grading rules that you want to apply to the pattern. Perhaps I should do a video on grading? Aneka
@@MadetoSew You're channel is the most thorough and precise sewing learning channel I've found. That would be wonderful.
@@xenonightshade Thank you Sarah. 💖
Ma please i want to start selling clothes online.how do i no the right size guide
Unfortunately there is no 'right' size guide. You can look at what other companies use. But a size 8 for example doesn't need to be a specific size. Every company will work from a different base - depending on who their target customer is. Hope this helps? Aneka
Thank u
Does this work if the side seam is curved?
Yes, just follow the previous shape.
Thank you clear
Glad it helped
How many inch you increase per size ..thNk you
Sorry, a little unsure of your question? This tutorial simply teaches how to grade on commercial dressmaking patterns that already exist, so how to increase or decrease the sizes. It is not a tutorial that shows how to grade a pattern professionally.
Who measures a size 42 inches bust for a size 5 ? When I was a size 5 I had a bust of 34 inches and waist of 24 inches hips of 36 inches. Where did you get these size of clothes
Thanks for your question.
Sorry for the confusion, these are not high street sizes, they come from the Made to Sew Copen pattern which has it's own sizing numbered from 0 upwards in an endeavour to encourage people to measure themselves and work with their own measurements rather than pick the size they think they are. This helps to get a better fitting garment.
Good
Thanks