How To Reboot & Grease The Inner & Outer CV (Constant Velocity) Axle
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- Опубликовано: 23 окт 2019
- This video will show you how to replace a cv axle boot or clean out and re-grease cv axle grease for a cv axle shaft. Rather than wait for a cv boot to split, spill out its grease and buy a new axle, my preference is to stay ahead of a potential split by replacing the old boot and grease. Also axle grease could wear out and cause bearing wear without the boot splitting. So if you want to keep the original cv axle in good operating condition, consider replacing the boot and repacking with new grease.
Parts and Specialty Tools:
Snap Ring Pliers
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CV Boot Banding Tool:
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CV Boot Band Clamp - Set
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Synthetic Moly Grease
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I was working on the lower ball joint, and accidently yanked the shaft out of the inner boot. A viscous, pale chocolate milk looking fluid poured out. Now that I've seen your video, I know how to re-pack the bearings.
Thank you very much.
You are filled with AWESOME!!!!
Nice work and thanks for sharing!
Hardly Moving Productions knows how to do it all. Unreal. Wish all Mechanics had his knowledge and skills
Thank you for taking your time to put this online, you know what you doing. Brilliant
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro great what its the 1st grease do you use. any reaso to use a different one in 2nd end. mine came like oil after i remove the clamp from the boot. so instead to replace the OEM cv axel passanger side i rather do this to keep the original and grease properyly...
Thank you so much, I screwed up hard and need to reboot my inner cv joint after popping it off accidentally. This gave me a good view of what I need to do to get it sorted out again, and I'm quite a bit less worried about trying to fix it.
Thanks for sharing!
Beautiful. Put an axle in my 2008 Subaru and it's been vibrating since. Glad to know i can re-use the old axle. Thank goodness i didnt toss it out! Thanks for your help!
You bet!
I’m never going to do this but much respect! Very knowledgeable video.
I appreciate that!
Great video. I dig the band tool. I bought a boot then realized the end needed to come off and removed the axle. I then decided on an OEM rebuilt axle and after putting in a new seal the transmission was leaking like crazy. Turns out they gave me the seal for A/T and not Manual. Will be redoing that tomorrow.
Thanks! Live and learn!
I also agree with you for not taking out that side of bearing hub. It may get damaged if not careful. In any case one can grease it without talking it out. Taking out one side of bearing is enough. Very clear video and voice.
Thanks for your critique!
Awesome video sir! I’m at 17 years old and 190,000 on my 2007 FJ and it’s time to redo the front end and reboot my CVs! Great job!😎
Thanks and good luck with the reboot!
That was really helpful! I really appreciate your video!
Thanks for your post!
Great Video. Extremely helpful & all steps thoroughly explained. Thanks !!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the video easier than I thought. I always replace the CV axles when the boots RIP or have problems find it easier. Never had a problem with CV axles from rockauto. Still good to know how to regrease or replace boots. Appreciate your time
I prefer now to re-boot the OEM axle instead of replacing with new or rebuilt ones ... unless dirt and moisture got into the bearings.
@Sam S Don't recall having problems with Cardone parts. They're pretty consistent in quality.
Rockauto sells many different brands of axles. Not all would be good.
Thank you for this Big Help video !!! 🔨🔩🔧 great info !
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for your video. I was planning on just rebooting my outer boot this weekend, but after seeing this, I have to rethink that.
Yes. Have to balance out the cost of labor effort, parts and specialty tools vs buying a replacement new / rebuilt.
@@hardlymovingpro I have watched a couple more, and they were not quite as worried about taking the outer end apart. However, it seems foolish to not open the inner side just to change grease.
I'd tend to agree about the inner side. But these cv axles are over 30 years old.
Thanks for mentioning the specific type of grease.
You bet!
Excellent, just what I need, thank you!
Glad it helped!
Great job and excellent information.
Glad it was helpful!
Think this vid just saved me ... thanks big man
Glad to hear it!
Thank you Sir!
That was helpful,
You are welcome!
Great video man!
Thanks!
Thanks dude save me a big ass head ache, great tutorial
You bet!
Cool! I’ll be doing this on a 97 Accord for my son. The passenger side inner CV boot split recently and it’s not making any clicking sound which is good. In addition, I’ll be installing all new front suspension on this old girl...
If the CV boot just recently split , and no rain water or dirt has had time to get into the bearings , then the CV axle can be retained with new boot and grease
Hardly Moving Productions Absolutely, the car hasn’t been driven lately, so we should be okay just replacing the boots. I’ll double check just to be safe. Thanks for the video...
@@elgatogordo9523 My pleasure.
and I’m just about to reboot my ‘06 Crv so no buying a new axle 😳 which some people on here have recommended thanks for vid very helpful
Glad I could help!
I like that Good job man!!!! I need to get me one of those tiny band cutters
Around 50% of auto repair is about having the right tools.
great video!
Thanks!
Nice video
Thanks!
Good stuff. ❤
Glad you enjoyed it!
I would’ve changed both boots at same time otherwise, thanks for the video well done👏
Thanks for watching!
Thanks that was very helpful. Have a question if you are able to assist. I am doing a Nissan Pathfinder and my inner tri bearing won’t come out easy like yours they stop at the end. There is no inner clip it looks like the. Housing has been crimped. Should I just try to tap and drift the housing past this sticking point.
Thanks David
Yes. I believe that would work.
Just installed new Cardone axles on both sides. Wished I knew then what I know now. Installed brand new Monroe Quick-struts and Delphi suspension parts all the way around with it. Control arms, ball joints, links, tie rods, the works. Got an alignment this morning and now I'm getting a vibration between 15-25mph. Mechanic saw it first and said it's probably my driver axle. Reviews and the Facebook group seems to agree. Looks like I'm rebooting my OEM and putting it back on. Unfortunately can't do that for the passenger side. It literally feel apart and got jammed looking down at the ground and took forever to get out of the hub. Hopefully the Cardone holds up on the passenger side.
Have the car put on a lift, start the engine, engage the transmission and observe the rotation of the CV axles. If you're in the car while on the lift, turn the wheel left and right and have your partner see what the axle is doing.
Thanks man
You bet!
What is the purpose for alignment marks on the cv axles? I have never taken them apart and was curious. Thanks and subscribed!!
I guess so the bearing cage on one end is in alignment with the cage on the other end.
Thank you
You bet!
I am going to do this to my 99 Ranger, which I am overhauling. Thank you for enlightening me!
You bet!
Nice work! I had Tony's alignment in Palatka Fla do mine and they didn't put bands back on either boot. They told me it was ok to drive to NY in Feb when it was snowing like crazy. I see it took in a lot of salt and snow in the boots. What kind of damage do you think this caused from the boot's not being sealed? I'm going to use your comment(s) in my small claims suit. They also did my inner and outer tie rods and left them unsealed too. Can't believe shops anymore, all the want is money and halfass work in return :( Thanks
Band claps are unnecessary? Without band clamps, I can't see how those boots stayed on. Yes ... a small claims suit would be appropriate if the repair shop doesn't want to make good on his repair!
Will this work on a 2011 Toyota Sienna lowered on Megan coilovers? My front cv axle is clicking on turns.
If clicking, the bearings are probably worn out and the axle should be replaced.
Hi, i ve been told not to use moly grease for the inner cv/tripod joint with needle bearings..do they use another type of grease?
Who told you?
Use moly - it is perfectly suited to the application and high temp wheel bearings in general.
Toyota specifies a polyurea grease for the inner; moly on outer. Definitely not moly on the inner. They provide the two different greases in their reboot kit.
Great demonstration; to the point and no BS. I would like to know more about your '06 CRV with the vibration. What was the problem with the original CV axle? I have an '05 Element with this problem and I have two OEM CV axles. I removed both and noticed that the inboard CV joints are fine but the outboard left CV joint no longer turns smoothly but sticks in some positions and wobbles in other positions. Would repacking with fresh grease solve this issue? Thanks.
Have had bad luck with CRV rebuilt axles. Problems disappeared when I bought new ones.
@@hardlymovingpro As in new aftermarket or new OEM? OEM Honda work well but are prohibitively expensive. Aftermarket tend to have quality issues.
New aftermarket. No issues with the Cardone brand.
I bought the parts and had my neighbor who's a mechanic replace the cv joints. He said the new parts come with grease already in the boot? I'm wondering if that's true or he was guessing
Yes. New axles come greased
If the outer cv joint boot has NOT broken or ripped, but clicks(usually only when turning), does that suggest the grease has liquified, and has become useless? And if so, can you KEEP the same boot, and just add new grease to that and possibly save the 'clicking when turning' cv joint, or has the damage already been done to the cv joint? thanks...
Yes ... Replacing the grease may eliminate the clicking noise.
Is there any orientation that the clamp should be facing when locking it
Nope.
Excellent video! What's the name of the tool you used to wind up the wire? You could drop the link in your description.
Thanks! I believe you're referring to the CV boot banding tool. It's in the description.
thank you very much. can you use the same grease for the inner and outer cv joint?
Yes. Auto retailers sell CV specific grease. Usually a blackish gray color with molybdenum disulfate or simply moly.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks! But why did you use for the outer joint a grease out a bag and for the inner joint a grease from a can?
Looks like a fairly easy task so I may get to it when weather gets warmer. Question. Once I take apart the front assembly and complete the rebuild task do I need to perform a wheel alignment?
It depends of whether the steering wheel didn't cock to the left or right and while riding the car it doesn't pull to the left or right.
@@hardlymovingpro 2005 Chrysler Sebring and it appears from reading that probably is not needed. Just put tires on 4 months back and did the alignment. The grease in those boots is probably perished after 180,000 Km and all the years. Boots are in good repair currently.
How to to recognyze if its a leak from the transmission seal or the cv axle?
Usually red drip stains from the seal leading to the ground. CV axles really don't leak unless the CV boot breaks or the boot band is loose.
Can u clap a ripped booth without that tool? I plan to pack some grease inside and add a clamp to it. Great Video Thanks!
Don't think that'll work. The centrifugal force from high speed axle spin will probably push the grease out from any weak openings in the boot.
So I don't need cv grease on the inside joint? I can use just general purpose grease? What's the big difference in cv and general purpose grease?
Need grease on both ends. Different components require different grease lubrication properties to reduce wear and friction as well as maintain longevity.
Agree on the CR-V!! Same issues I've had with that model! Not sure why
The problem I had was with the driver side
@@hardlymovingpro exact same side lol is that a coincidence... Think not!! Customer looking at me as if I don't know what I'm doing after 2 brand new axles from O'Reilly's failed....I told him take it to the dealership
@@Usmanthemecano That's funny ... I got mine from OReilly's as well ... they were rebuilds ... insisted on a new one on my 3rd attempt and that fixed it!
@@hardlymovingpro I'll try lkq for an original axle next. (That's if he hasn't sorted it out yet)
@@Usmanthemecano You can see the axle moving in and out of the cv cups if you have both wheels off the ground and the car running in gear. That's how I found the cause.
Oops, i found your video after i disassembled my joint. I didn't mark the orientation. How can I align the cv joint now?
I would worry about it too much. I don't think it really makes that much difference.
Was it okay? I forgot to do mine too lol
I was a little surprised that you made the registration marks to realign spider / bearings assembly to shaft, but didn't make marks to put rollers back into same channels in the tulip / housing.
Why do we need to put back the gear in inner joint in the exact way we removed them? Don't those gears have identical sizes? What's the effect if we put them the "wrong way"?
It comes down to the amount of wear in the bearings relative to the CV cup. If there was little to no wear, then it shouldn't matter; otherwise you may encounter vibration.
if i want to go with premium after market what brand you recommend.
Cardone, APWI or SureTrack
Whats name of the tool..are use to tension the cv boots ring..name please...thanks
CV boot banding tool. It's noted in the "Show More" text description of this video.
Nice circlip pliers, with the replaceable tips/needles, who makes those?
I don't recall the maker but it's a standard design. Think it's a OEM brand
Would simply repacking and rebooting CV axle shafts on a 2009 Honda Odyssey fix a vibration issue? How likely are factory CV axles to be bent, thus causing the vibration?
I'm afraid that wouldn't work. Repacking and rebooting is to prevent future wear and tear. Once the damage has been done, it's time to replace. Driving into a large pot hole is enough to damage either the internals or rod of a CV axle and cause vibration.
@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for the reply. Made my decision easy.
@@nigelio3 You bet!
Hi do you have to put a lot grease on the inner boots , I see you fill it up.
Yes ... To prevent the bearings from.l wearing out.
How did you clean up all the grease, can you use parts cleaner spray?
All you can do is to wipe off residue then add new grease.
Is there a certain amount of grease you should use or is it just all in?
Every CV boot replacement kit comes with a grease pack that contains the right amount of grease. If replacing the grease and not the boot, scoop a handful out of the container of CV compatible grease.
2 questions, 1 what type of grease pack did you use and why different grease for the inner and outer boots (pack vs stp tin). 2 how important is marking the orientation before removing it?
Grease pack came with the new boot kit. The STP grease was pretty much the same as the pack since it contained moly. Believe keeping the front end rear ends of the bearings oriented makes a difference.
@@hardlymovingpro Yup, Matching helps keep the shaft in balance when it was made!
Makes sense.
What spray cleaner can I use to clean it? Thanks!
You can use an aerosol brake cleaner as a grease solvent.
Is the bander necessary to put the clamp on? Or is there another way
The band tool works wonderfully in creating enough torque on the new band to prevent the new boot from slipping off.
I have a Benz SL63 AMG 2011 broken rear boot. What rubber boots do you recommend i get? i cant find anything? Thanks.
Tough question. Try online European parts vendors.
@@hardlymovingpro also can you tell me what is best axle grease to use Mobil SHC 220? or the Grey moly valvoline grease? thanks much..
@@mikeovanes Any CV bearing designated grease with moly in it.
How far do you put it into the cup? All the way?
Yes.
I need your service
What tool was that for the clamp?
The tool is listed in this video's "show more" text description.
👍 thanks
You bet!
So pros and cons of simply replacing the entire axle with everything installed ?
More labor effort to reboot.
Atleast for my 4runner a reboot kit is $23. so for both sides its $46 and the cheapest cv axle for 1 is $71. If you have the tools and patience then doing it yourself isn't a problem. Usually after the 1st side is done you do the 2nd side way faster.
How can I find that kit?what's the name of it?
Try rockauto.com
Why not use a worm gear clamp instead of the band clamps that require the special tool?
My thought is that the worm gear mechanism is a lot heavier than the fold over method (or there is a second style of simple clamp with a minor amount of metal) . The worm gear could add enough metal to cause the axle to be too far out of balance and cause vibrations.
Also the clamping force may not be completely concentric.
Do I have to remove the whole axle shaft if I severed my boot and all the grease poured out?
That's up to you. I've seen videos where people reboot the axle with the axle still attached to the transmission. For me, it's easier to remove the axle then reboot.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you for getting back at me so fast I severed my boot accidentally trying to install coil overs on my Mazda 3 speed and ordered the new boot but wasn’t sure if I had to take it off
@@hardlymovingpro also the wheel won’t spin is that because I have no grease?
Is the transmission in neutral? It won't spin otherwise.
@@hardlymovingpro are the wheels supposed to spin freely my front wheels are stiff
And how do you know if the bearings are worn out?
Wheel vibration at highway speeds. Clicking noise at low speed. Thumping sensation making turns.
is it safe to clean the old grease with gas? Just make sure its clean before putting a new grease on?
The old fashion way is to use kerosene (aka diesel fuel). Just make sure everything is bone dry before re-greasing and putting it back together. Recommend you use compressed air.
@@hardlymovingpro THANKS!!
@@centycents You bet!
What’s that tool used to tighter the ring
They're called snap ring pliers. 2 types: one to expand, the other to compress.
Whats the tool name for the clamps for the boots?
I live in Minnesota and my 2012 ML350 with 81,000 miles makes a clunking noise when I make a hard right or left turn. Have shown to the dealer and independent mechanic and they all said there is nothing wrong with axle, shaft or the rubber is not punctured. The noise comes only during the harsh winter and not in warm or summer weather. At this point of time I am thinking this is what needs to be done as per another video that I came across. Any idea of what grease or how much grease is needed for the AWD 4Matic vehicle? Not sure if there are 2 or 4 joints. Also, rough labor cost or how many hours it would take to do this please? Video - ruclips.net/video/XFLaCo9Pbv8/видео.html
I don't work on MB's but the procedure in this video should be similar. Most CV replacement boot kits come with a new grease pack containing around 6 oz.
Here's my thought process.... If I have to actually "remove" the CV Axles, hell at that time just replace them! I was hoping to see someone perform this task while they were still attached.
That's your option. Then it's a matter of how well built the replacement axle is compared to the factory original.
@@hardlymovingpro I buy quality parts. Usually the price difference is within 20% of generic brands. I just did my 2010 Ford Transit Connect. Cheap ones were $135. Quality ones were only $159. It was a no brainer when your life can be on the line... ;)
@@chrispatriot with fresh grease and a new boot the OEM part is likely still superior to any aftermarket part IMO
What will happen if i put too much grease in the boot? I mean boot full of grease?
Most problems occur with to little grease.
@@hardlymovingpro i have filled entire boot with grease but haven't drove the vehicle since grease update. I am afraid that boot will bust. Should i use it or reduce the ammount of grease?
@@AchalPawar They sell replacement boots with grease packs. These packs don't fill the entire boot. Don't see a need to fill the entire boot.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks alot. It helped me. hitting red button of your channel...
@@AchalPawar No problem!
How ara you using only nlig2 grease?
Do you actually mean NLGI #2 vs nlig2? If so, it's rated as a good all purpose grease compatible for use with wheel bearings.
@@hardlymovingpro for cv axle?
only nlig2 grease ?? @Hardly Moving Productions
@@hardlymovingpro thanks
I want to use that cutter for tightening the rubber full of grease inside from Mister Fredie Mcfull vlogs
The wire cutter pliers or the band clamp tool? If using pliers, you won't generate enough torque.
@@hardlymovingpro ah ok sir the band clamp tool is the name thanks
Need to do this to my focus I don't Wana buy new axal lol
With the type of tools I used, you can do it.
I didn't know Eugene Levy worked on cars
Who ever he is?
Can you use zip ties too
nope. not strong enough.
Waww great
Thanks!
After watching this video I'd not be using your services: at 3:20 you use the rotary wire brush which will inject a proportion of the rust and debris that it removes into the grease/open CV joint. Then you didn't remove the old grease (now containing containing debris) from the joint, before adding new grease to it (I thought you were changing the grease?). Wouldn't condone grinding metal from a balanced shaft either, when a simple score mark would suffice. Useful video for a how to/how not to...
Thanks for sharing your input. In most cases I just buy a new shaft and no bother with this time consuming ordeal. But for those who want to do it, more power to them.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for your reply - I don't like to be negative, and I appreciate your response. I found the video by searching for information, and as I did note previously, it's a useful video. Cheers.
@@will_doherty you bet!
Much better to re boot and re grease high quality OEM cvs. Aftermarket cvs are junk and I've had nothing but bad luck with them.
Assuming the cv bearings and the bearing cup aren't shoot. Cardone makes very good aftermarket axles.
Great video. Thanks.
When I did a CV axle for a Honda, the inner and outer joints had different greases. I was told not to mix greases, meaning the joint should be thoroughly cleaned before using the new grease. Is adding grease that's different an issue? Or is the grease that like you received good to mix with whatever came from the factory?
I'd assume the newer rebuilt axles would have synthetic grease with moly added. Mixing with older mineral based grease shouldn't make a difference.
I don't get the alignment marks, I always thought that you can assemble and dissamble it without minding the orientation, because the parts are already balanced from the factory and any deviation is meaningless.
Instead of grinding marking the CV axle, I would rather mark it with a marking punch.
Overall, great video.
You may be right but decided to be on the side of caution since I did not have a factory repair guide.
The service manual on my 99 Lexus ES300 does say to put "matchmarks" and it says "do not punch the marks". I wonder if grinding the marks is fine or not from the manufacturer's perspective lol. I'm about to re-boot mine this weekend.
Grind marks would work.
@@nikovandh If punching marks is verboten, then I would settle for some very light linear scoring using a fine diamond file. You can make small but visible lines as "timing marks." IMHO I'd be concerned that a dremel would remove too much mass. But I'm a perfectionist.
Gotta pack the bearing.
Not necessarily. Centrifugal force and the back and forth movement of the bearings in the CV cup housing moves the grease around.
Hardly Moving Productions well, okay. I can see what you’re getting at. But what happens when the bearings run on non-greased races? I mean, really is it a manufacturing practice to not pack a bearing with grease? To each their own, but for a $300-$800 axle, I’d rather smash some grease in there. Especially on a classic like a 3000Gt.
@@sszablya CV axles, relatively speaking, are dirt cheap. I buy them for less than $100. But they're not OEM and at times the performance may be spotty (the rebuilt ones made in Mexico) ... which is why if the boot recently split, I'll reboot it. If you hit a big enough pot hole, however, the CV axle, bearings and cage can get damaged resulting in high speed vibration. Then all you can do is replace. Don't think there was CV axle technology in the 60's with the 3000 GT. Car's and trucks were using U joints (even now trucks still use U joints). The advent of FWD vehicles in the 70's changed all that ... although a few years back, Corvette moved away from using U joints and went CV. Believe some after market parts suppliers were providing U joint to CV Corvette axle conversion kits.
Hardly Moving Productions , accurate point. In fact doesn’t need grease at all but a new boot.
@@akaweed2009 As long as you catch the boot split early where no dirt and moisture got in, a reboot would be worthwhile doing. I'd still add some new grease with a reboot.
That glove also needs rebooting
You're right.
Two weeks later... the old inner boot tears.
Nope. The outer takes the most movement and stress.
lot a work just for some grease
It is what it is.
It's called a circlip.
Thanks for sharing!
You are there already ,why not change both inner and outer.
The inner was good as new. The outer is what takes the most stress and splits the most.
New shafts are about 60$ 😅
That's about right. Easier for those who don't want the hassle of rebooting.
Hmm only changed outer boot.
Same concept for the other side.
Better off jus buy a new one way faster than repair
The new ones may be rebuilds of poor quality.
letting force push grease instead of packing it in seems pretty shoddy
Packing is forcing
why didn't you cover the bearings before all clean up ???????????????
Cover with what?