VW A4: 2.0L Water Pump Removal
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2024
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Here's a better video:
ruclips.net/video/zQNVjPilQzE/видео.html
Awesome video. I’ve done two 2.0 Vw water pumps, timing belts, and tensioners with the aid of this video. Saved me thousands of dollars and made me money. Thanks!
Thank you for watching!
Wow! This dude is good, but no way am I going through all of that! I've replaced water pumps before, but NONE of them have required THIS much work. LOL
There are many worse designs... that are not VW/Audi.
Pump in my 2004 2.0 failed (plastic impeller crap) in 2015, what a pain to replace. Did it with ordinary tools during winter in a freezing cold condominium parking stall. Did entire timing belt kit at the same time, took me 5-6hrs, learned a lot.
Gotta do what ya gotta do. Well done!
thanks for the video!. shows what I needed to see.still a lot of work for a water pump,but it is what it is
The pump can be replaced without taking the engine mount / bracket & timing belt off completely. The belt still needs to be removed from the crankshaft (so that it does not get wet when the pump is removed). Cuts the job in 1/2.
Thanks for the tip I'll try it out tomorrow morning. I already changed the thermostat but it doesn't seem to be the problem. Water doesn't seem to be flowing threw the motor. The upper radiator hose gets hot but the lower radiator hose stays cold. At idle it stays at 190 but when driving the motor overheats.
Thanks for all your help An all Your great videos keep up the AWESOME work if i lived in Canada you would be my to go guy
Thank you very much, that's nice to hear... thank you for watching!
nice video! I like the basic approach, no BS or crappy music. Thanks!
Thank you for watching & taking the time to comment!
Your video really helped me out thanks
Nice to hear... thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Happy New Year & all the best to you & yours!
thanks for the great help. You are saving people a great deal of money with your help. All the best from Canada.
Larry Elford Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment! My videos don't show everything in detail, but I have multiple videos of similar jobs, so if you don't see something in one video, it might be "within view" in another video... just use the channel search box to look for what you need. If you can't find something, just send me a message and I'll get back to you asap.
good video. i wouldnt have a clue how to do this myself but its cool to see how its done
+judgejules84 Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!
Good video, well done Thomas. Thank you.
A couple of questions:
Have a 2002 Jetta 2.0 that overheated. No coolant lost, so I changed out the thermostat as this is a common first fix. I felt around for the impeller for the water pump and it felt intact.
I reloaded coolant and it still overheats, but no heat out of the heater. I used a pump to to suck as much air out of the system until the hose had no bubbles. Still overheats. Checked the heater connections to see if the heater was blocked, and water flowed no problem. So now it looks like the water pump.
Question 1:
The Stretch Bolts for the engine mount are colored Green. There are only the four to replace correct?
I also noticed on the three bolts holding the main PS/AC tensioner belt are also green. Do these need to be replaced?
Question 2:
The bolts holding the mount into the block need to come out as well correct?
These bolts also need to be replaced?
Question 3:
Should a cam lock pin be used when putting the new belt on or will it stay put?
Thanks again for this instructional video.
Steve S 1) Any bolt that has a torque angle value after a specified Nm amount should be replaced.
2) No torque angle value, then safe to reuse.
3) The only 2.0l engine that needs a lock plate is the BBW engine... if yours is a AVH, BEV or other, no lock plate or pin is needed.
thanks for the video. I was able to do the timing belt water pump and tensioner. My question is when I'm done tightening down the tensioner should it move when rotating engine? i noticed it moving when my helper rotated the engine.
and if the tab isn't exactly in the middle will it effect the remain put on the belt?
The pointer might move a little (or wiggle a little while the engine is running)... as long as it is close to the alignment mark, it's ok. You can tell if it is on the "tight" side or on the "loose" side, by looking at the pointer while you are adjusting tension. If it went past the adjustment point, then the belt / adjustment is a little on the tight side. As the belt wears / relaxes, the pointer should come back on its own. A belt that is on the loose side, will stay on the loose side.
So much better than Chilton! I did the belt too, BTW. Thanks
That's the best way to do it! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. Changing my water pump this week. People been telling me I have to watch the timing change? If so could you give me some tips to not mess that up ? Lol
If you are just changing the pump and not the belt... place white marks on the belt & the camshaft gear. Also remove the crankshaft pulley & lower timing belt cover, so that you can make the crank gear & belt. As long as all the white marks line-up... things should be OK. It's best to set the engine to TDC #1 first... using the mark on the camshaft gear and the mark at the flywheel / torque converter.
Gracias por tus vídeos en especial este. lo realice un poquito diferente pero dejándome llevar por este video y logre quitar y poner todo en media hora 😃😃👍
Gracias por ver
Thank u.
Thanks very helpful
Thank you for watching... if you need specific / other info, let me know.
Hey, thanks for a great video. My water pump appears to be leaking, even though I had my head gasket and complete timing belt service done last May. Can I get away with just replacing the O-ring for the water pump, or do I need to do another timing belt service again?
If it's leaking, chances are the leak is in the pump seal itself rather than the large seal that seals the pump to the block because the first seal is constantly rubbing against the water pump shaft and slowly wearing out while the seal that seals the pump to the block has nothing rubbing against it. I'm in the process of replacing a pump that I installed 5 months ago for this reason. They don't make them like they used to.
I need a video on a 2000 ford contour 2.0 water pump removal
You've got them down pat.About a half an hour to 45 min.I've got to replace my water pump.I did the timing belt about a year and a half ago. Never did the water pump. (Got lazy)Great vid though!
+The9dub9 If the belt looks like it is coolant contaminated... you are better off replacing it as well (again) at this time. Thanks for watching!
Great video as always !! :-) also I’ve noticed another day a splash of a straight line marked on the inside of the hood of the car, right above where serpentine belt is. Is that a tell - tell sign of my water pump going bad? The car is not overheating. Thanks :-)
Possibly... year, make, model, engine?
What pump would you recommend for a 2.0? OEM or aftermarket and plastic or metal. I changed the OEM out already with an aftermarket a few years ago and noticed it dripping off of the crank pulley. I am guessing that is where the leak is coming from. Also should I replace with new belt and tensioner, they was new with the pump. I'm thinking I should.
Always replace the tensioner & belt when replacing the pump... vw / audi specialty parts stores will stock kits that are of good quality. example
www.germanautoparts.com/productdisplay/31670
www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GH21100%2DA
The plastic in the new pumps holds up better than the old ones did... I have no issue installing plastic impeller pumps.
We change timing belts every 6 - 7 years or 120k to 140k km which ever comes first. For the majority of our customers, it's the 6 to 7 year mark.
Thanks for this video, so easy.
andy flag For some people it can be easy.
Yeah but what Im saying is that you show how to do it easy and straight to the point
andy flag Thanks. I have a few timing belt videos, so it's a good idea to watch those as well, since others might show things better or things that were missed in one of the others. I don't post many installation videos... if you run into any issues, just post a question and I'll reply asap.
Sure thankssss
You make this look easy!but now i know i am taking this to a professional.Loved watching this though!Thanks for the video
Thank you for watching!
love your videos, T. You've saved my bacon a few times with the details and no BS approach.
Maybe I missed it, but did you make a video of the belt/tensioner/cam seal R&R?
Didn't miss it... I don't show everything in detail as I take things off (camera doesn't pick everything up (.
Cam seals are only replaced when they leak... I know, now's the time to do it, but cam & crank seals add time / labor.
If the estimate is too high , customers don't book.
I have a couple timing belt removal videos... so watching the others might fill in the blanks.
I'm looking to rerecord a 2.0l belt & pump removal and include the installation.
Cams rotate half the revolutions that cranks rotate so they last twice as long.
Frank Howard LOL... sometimes.
Half the rotations = half the wear. Doesn't that make sense to you?
Frank Howard Sorry... I meant most of the time (most of the time they last longer). Yes, of course it makes sense. Sorry about the confusion, I'm at work and replied too quickly. :)
Great video. My daughters 2004 Jetta is running hot in Florida and the mechanic is gonna replace water pump. He seems unsure if its a head gasket but I'm getting my info through my 18 year old daughter who lives w her mother. Is it common for the impeller to go bad on the water pumps. Also what is an average replacement for this procedure, no replacing the belt....Thanks, Ricky
Plastic impellers fail with age... the "new" style plastic is supposed to be better, but if possible, install a metal impeller pump. That said, metal impellers can fail as well (rare): Example: 2002 VW GTI Overheating (possible causes) Part 3
ALWAYS replace the Timing Belt & Tensioner when replacing the water pump, unless you know for a fact that the belt & tensioner are only a couple years old.
We recommend replacement of all three items every 6 yrs or 120k km / 75k miles. Cost of replacement varies from State to State due to labor rate and mark-up on parts.
I recently had the water pump, timing belt, and camshaft sensor replaced on my 02 jetta (180,300 mi; 90% sure its the AVH). No overheating, but massive coolant loss (the whole of my expansion tank) since the work was done.
Could this have been caused by an imperfect O-ring and/or contact with the mating surfaces? Any other thoughts, if not?
+ruckus1314 I don't know... I can't see the leak from here. If it was done recently, take it back and have them check it out... might be a free warranty repair.
YOU ROCK! THX
Thank you!
Thanks
Thank you for watching!
Hey man! This has been incredibly helpful! I hope youre still answering questions.
I have followed all the instructions so far and am ready to get the engine to TDC and take the tensioner off. I am quite confused on how you were lining up TDC so can you give me a little explanation? And for the life of me i cant tell where the fly wheel youre looking at is on my car under the SAI pump. I cant just line up the cam like with the backing plate mark behind it?
Also, i want to replace my timing belt, so i need to get the rest of the mount out of the way. Can i just unbolt those 3 bolts keeping it in or is there another special step i have to take. Again, Thank you so much!
It's alway smart to invest a little bit of money in a "service manual"... all the info you need is in it. I assume you are working on a VW 2.0L engine that's in a Golf, Jetta or New Beetle? What year? Standard or automatic transmission? The more info I have the better I can help.
Yes, if you simply turn the engine until the Camshaft TDC mark on the gear lines up with the arrow on the valve cover... then the crankshaft "should" also be at TDC. However, it is a good idea to visually verify that the crankshaft is also at TDC.. because it is possible that the crankshaft gear (that spins the timing belt) has come loose with age, causing the timing / TDC to be off from where it should be. If you currently don't have any running / performance issues, then the crank gear is most likely OK... just a variable that I like to mention.
Here is a timing belt video:
ruclips.net/video/zQNVjPilQzE/видео.html
Service manuals (as many as you want to buy for as many vehicles as you would like) can be downloaded right from the Official VW Service info site... for only $35 USD (24 hour access to the site, the downloaded pdf files do not expire) which is the BEST deal on the internet. I usually download 8GB of information within that time.
@@EXOVCDS thank you so much for the response!
I have a 2002 hatchback Jetta with the 2.0L 5 speed manual. I also have a hanes manual i have been following closely but Im at this point where it wants me to have 2 super special tools to hold the cam and crank gear where i take off the belt and I started to look on RUclips to see just how necessary that is because those tools are expensive and random.
Thanks! Ill double check the crank timing. If i can figure out how! Haha, navigating this hanes manual is like a never ending choose your own adventure and its killing me
@@BotMechanic if the engine is like the one on the video... no special tools are required. Once tha camshaft is at TDC, mark one of the crank gear teeth in relation to the engine block, so that you can turn the crankshaft back to the same position... should the crankshaft move during belt removal / installation. If you have doubts about anything... send pictures to me so that I can verify things for you. Click the fkh161 link in the description and then click on Tool Request to send me the images. I am running some errands, but will reply back as soon as possible.
all the same for a 2001 VW Golf 2.0? I don't have one of those braces you used to support the engine. Will a jack under the engine work?
Yes you can support the engine from underneath.
How do you know the cam gear arrow is up on the number one cylinder while being in tdc? Cause the arrow could be up on any of the other cylinders. I did not see you put a long rod in the number one piston to see if it’s all the way up
The mark on the cam gear is for #1... whenever that mark is pointing up, #1 is at TDC.
i have this car - doing the water pump tomorrow. I do not have the engine support but can I use a jack under the pan and hold it up from there without issue?
Yes, support under the pan is not a problem... thank you for watching!
Really helpful I changed my water pump today and was my guide through it all.. im a noob and finished like a pro. Thanks
Thank you for your DIY feedback and thank you for watching!
Yes ! I do have a question. How do I know for sure that the engine is in TDC? BTW you're Awesome VW Mechanic! Betcha know how to fix BMWs too..
Pietrangelo Zampicinini Year, make, model, engine?
Hi Thomas..
I have 2003 jetta tdi mk4, I'm going to replace the Timing belt, so should I replace the Tensioner, Idler pulley and water pump, it's really necessary to replace these 3 items ??? even if its bad condition or working condition for these 3 items. please let me know.
Thanks
+ali khan They will not last the life of the new belt... always replace as a set.
I need it for a 2000 ford contour 2.0 removal of water pump
I have a mk6 that just exceeded 100k miles. I'm interested in installing a new water pump and belts. I do not have many hex, torx, etc... would you be able to give me a list of the various sizes I'll need for the job? Or at least recommend a size variance that I should look for in a tool kit of hex, torx, etc...
Thank you.
What engine? 2.5L? Haven't done one... yet.
I've got an 01 jetta wagon with the avh. I've got a very slow coolant leak on the passenger side of the engine I'm nearly certain is the water pump seal. The leak is very slow, to the tune of about a half inch drop in the level in the reservoir over a thousand or so miles. The belt seems fine (and somehow dry) and the pump works ok (no overheating issues), so is it really worth all the bother to replace the water pump and belt while I'm in there, or should I just keep an eye on it and act if it gets any worse?
Water pumps have a vent / weep hole... this allows the pump / bearing to breathe and water / moisture to drain off. "Some" weepage is considered normal by the manufacturer. Ideally you do not want to see any leaking. At minimum, keep an eye on the pump... top up fluid as you have been, and replace the pump / belt / tensioner when either the leak has gotten too great or the recommended belt change interval has come.
Ok, thanks for the reply. Great video, btw
Thomas EXOVCDS would you recomened a mettel inpeler over a plastic or should i buy one with a plastic inpeler
Either is fine... the plastic ones are better these days. I have no problem installing those. Metal is better for peace of mind... but they can also fail (leak, bearing noise, even the impeller can come loose). I wouldn't lose sleep over it... use whichever comes in the timing belt kit.
Thomas EXOVCDS thank you verry much
What would you say the typical range set of hex/torx?
Any kit that includes 6 to 10 bits / sockets will probably cover you.
Hey bro! Long time no talk but I have a question for my 98 VW Cabrio. My dad cat converter is bad. It rattles like a mug horrible. When I hit the gas and go above 8mph it loud. What are some alternate ways to get rid of the sound?
Depending on the state you live in... cat modification is considered tampering and can get you a fine. Replacing the cat will fix the sound as well as keep the check engine light off.
Removing the cat and punching out the material will make it quiet, but the check engine light will come on.
***** Right. Well I will make sure to get that checked. Thank you. Keep up the good vids!
where would I find instructions on how to replace my water pump in a mk6 jetta 1.8t se automatic?
In a service manual... you can download as many as you want for $35US within a 24hr period.
Go to: erwin.vw.com/
Here's a how to video:
ruclips.net/video/L1hnOxlVbuU/видео.html
great video, I'm about to do this on my 2000 2.0 Jetta. question though. I've had an antifreeze leak for a few days now. it's been running 190 with the temp light on. yesterday it hit 260, steam, overheated. I found the coolant flange to be cracked and my leak was there. do you think I need a new water pump also? I am getting a flange from vw dealer today, and some g12. coolant has been drained. thanks in advance!
Not sure about the water pump... could have overheated due to running low on fluid, due to stuck thermostat, due radiator fans not coming on. I would replace the flange, fill & bleed the system and then check for correct water pump & thermostat operation. Heater & blower on MAX... you should get lots of heat while the engine is running (once it is warm)... if the heat goes away / gets cold, then the water pump is not pumping. If the lower radiator hose stays cold and the needle goes past the middle, then the thermostat is stuck closed. If upper & lower radiator hoses are hot and the needle goes past the middle, then the radiator fans are not coming on.
Thomas, love the videos. The tool you are using at 3:47, what is that? I'm new to the mechanic world and that tool looks amazing. Thanks.
That's just a 3/8" air ratchet... not needed, you can use a regular ratchet.
oh i know its not needed... but its awesome.
D.L. Stone But noisy (this one)!
How much tension should be set to the timing belt?
Jay Dehart A timing belt kit or even just the tensioner should come with instructions... turn until the pointers align.
My old water pump had black silicon all over it. I removed everything all the old silicon from the block. Should there be any silicon used for the install? I wouldn't think it would be necessary.
According to the manual... it is NOT necessary. I lube the o-ring with silicone grease and I apply a little RTV Silicone around the base of the o-ring on the metal part of the water pump that meets the engine block (just as a back-up in case the o-ring ever decides to leak).
Yes. That's exactly what I did! Thanks for the help. Keep working!
I had a question, my water pump is leaking fluid out the weap hole. I filled my coolant resivior 2 days ago, and is already empty after a days of driving, could that be the water pump? I was thinking maybe so because of the weap hole. Thanks!
Some weeping / wetness from the weep hole is normal... if the water is dripping out, the water pump is bad.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks for your quick reply, I saw the leak, its pretty dang bad. Thanks for taking the time to respond
my brother and i are working on my moms her water pump went out and we have two bolts that we cant get off the balancer. what could we do to get the off we have tried a trox head becaus ethe allen parts is stripped out. we also tried the easy outs and broke one in the head.
Jason Dunbar Buy an Extractor Socket Set. The socket will bite the outside of the bolt head as you turn the socket counterclockwise.
cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server4900/f4083/products/3305/images/9159/AMT-53916__53113.1340887845.480.400.jpg?c=2
thank you i will look into them
Found a video I had of the same scenario!
ruclips.net/video/kCIkedWegms/видео.html
Thanks for the tip with the tool it got them out and we got thw new pump on and then we had the alternator go out lol.... but thanks again
So if there's no heat inside the car it's either water pump or heater core, correct?
Yes... and if the car does not overheat, then the core is plugged.
If I'm taking out just the water pump I do not have to take out the motor mounts do I
I'm not sure... I think the engine support bracket is in the way.
what's the engine support used for?
Support the engine... keep it from falling.
hey bro, I was able to put the timing belt back on. It looked like the timing marks are good but when I did start it it sounded really loud like the lifters we're just extra loud I hadn't run the car and about nine months. It has oil it has water but my concern was that if I was off a tooth in my installation of the timing belt that maybe this was causing that noise. or maybe my installation was fine and maybe my lifters need some attention. My question is if the timing is off the tooth would that noise coming from the lifters be an indication that maybe my timing is off? also can I check the timing with a timing light? my vehicle is a manual transmission yet I could not find the marking on the flywheel. Is there a marking or do I just need to make sure that that tooth is in line with the arrow
Lifters could be causing the noise... but it should run smooth (even with noisy lifters). If it runs rough & noisy, recheck your TDC. 1 tooth should not make a difference (as far as I know). When the crank is at TDC, two pulley bolt holes will be at 12 & 6 o'clock. Like this fkh161.ca/VW/CrankSprocketAlignment.jpg This image is off of a different engine, but the crank sprocket alignement is similar to yours. The pulley has a notch that needs to align with a dimple in the lower timing belt cover (12 o'clock above pulley mark). Ideally you want to use the flywheel mark as a reference / to align the crank, but if you can't see it, then use the crank pulley mark. Realign everything and then turn the engine by hand 2 turns and recheck your tdc marks.
Thomas EXOVCDS when the engine ran it seem to run smoothly it just very noisy due to the lifters. when it ran and didn't Shake as if there was a miss fire. thanks for the link I was able to take a look at the picture you sent and my crank lines up identical to yours 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. when I looked at the flywheel I noticed two holes. one hole you can see the teeth in and the other one it's hard to tell. what that's for 2nd for? I will go ahead and rotate that engine again see if I can find that dimple. Thanks for your help again
ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/deleontow/2010-09-05_173740_Jetta_A4_Rear_timing_1.png
fkh161.ca/VW/AEGTiming.pdf
Hey I been watching your videos for a while so I replaced all collant flanges and temp sensor and fans and oil cooler then the oil adapter housing gasket and the thermostat the car is running when I hook up my solus pro it bounces form 20 to 212 It might be the water pump repeller but can I take the thermostats out completely drive t couple miles and see what it does see is it faulty
The temp needle bounces or the scan tool value bounces? If the needle is steady at 190 but ecm data is bouncing... probably a bad coolant temperature sensor.
+Thomas EXOVCDS the. Needle on my car goes up to middle like normal don't move but scan tool it goes above 210 and I don't like that I replaced the collant temp sensor on the collant flange idk if any other sensor can have bad reading like the collant sendor sensor on radiator or the sensor on the expansion tank these German cars are no joke
+tommymcculloch Just the one sensor if it's a 2.0 mk4. Look at the instrument cluster data stream to see the digital temp value, to see if it matches what the ecm sees.
The two values should be close... they don't always match 100%.
+Thomas EXOVCDS the cluster never surpasses the middle indicating it's going over heat it's Just my scanner that says it gets to 210 and I don't want risk it how high can I go without damaging motor I haven't driven it pay 212
+tommymcculloch 215F is 101C The radiator fans should come on at 97C / 206F
The clusters that I look at show 90c in the middle and the needle will stay there even when temperature goes to 105c.
That's why I suggested looking at instrument cluster scan data (if your scanner can access it).
You'll probably also see close to 215f.
Make sure your low speed coolant fans are working (could both be burnt out).
Thermostat should be an 87c / 188F
Great job on the Video..
Thank u for the video it's going to help me when the time comes.have a question,what if I no coolant comes out of the little hose and I also can't blow into it.I try to blow and just get hurt cheeks lol I get no air going into the tank,no bubbles nothing.
Then the hose is plugged somewhere. Locate the other end of the hose and disconnect it. Once you locate the plugged section, simply clean it out.
Just a quick question, when you blew into the reservoir return, what made you determine it was the water pump? was it bubbles, or a lack of bubbles? also, what's an average amount of time for a job like this, I want to make sure that i'm not getting screwed if I take this to a shop.
and thanks again for the awesome videos, you've saved me so much money and you rock.
If you stick a straw in a coke bottle, suck on the straw & nothing comes out, then the straw might be plugged.
That's all I am doing... checking for a restriction. If there is no restriction, then I should be able to blow air into the cooling system and I will see air bubbles or the level will rise.
When the engine is running, fluid should come out of that hose because the water pump is pumping fluid.
No fluid = bad water pump OR plugged hose.
If you have no heat inside the car = bad water pump.
Gaem Hub ruclips.net/video/ZcoT1oFr74g/видео.html
Gaem Hub I'll get back to you on the time... have to check the labor guide. What year vehicle, engine, model?
1999 VW Golf 4DR 2.0L Thanks again!
@@EXOVCDS kinda late to the party but I got a auto 2.0 05 golf same engine and everything it looks like there is coolant leaking from below the alternator, I assumed water pump but I still have heat?
Hello bro, Is the method same for a vr6?
Similar location yes, but not timing belt driven, since the VR6 has a chain. Remove the Serpentine belt (I have a couple of videos about that) and then you need to remove the passenger engine mount, so that the engine can be raised or lowered for pump removal. A4 VR6 I assume? Removing the dog bone mount under the engine also helps.Loosening the transmission mount bolts and sliding the whole assembly over a bit helps even more.
Could you recommend a timing belt, water pump kit from the internet?
Sorry about the late reply.
Germanautoparts.com
Ecstuning.com
Shopdap.com
Thomas EXOVCDS thanks for the recommendations, enjoy your vacations now
Good video. How I wish they didnt have timing belt driven water pumps these days, they are such an obvious consumable that will need replacement. The bottom line is with this kind of a set up and the removals one has to do, bite the bullet and replace everything.Belt, tensioners etc. even if its an old "beater",it will just equate to maybe 1 months payment for a newer car and you have some peace of mind. If a timing belt lets go or tensioner fails, it will cost a whole lot more money.
I prefer having water pumps driven by the timing belt (replace both and you don't have to worry about either until the next scheduled service)... if the pump is not driven by the belt, I don't touch the pump until it is noisy or leaks.
I'm an "old school" home mechanic lol. (52 yrs old) In my younger days most all water pumps were made with cast metal or stamped/forged housings with same impellers ( sometimes plastic) and rarely did they ever stop pumping. It's as you said, bearing or seal failure was always the issue, but due to the external driven nature of them, most(not all) are very simple and easy to replace and unless there is a really gigantic seal failure, you could keep pounding water to the engine and limp home because they are still pumping. The little plastic garbage these days,when they fail, they pump very litter or not at all so your dead on the side of the road with a tow truck as your only option. Anyway, I enjoyed you vid and a few others I've watched and find them very informative.Definite thumbs up :)
Thank you for watching!
whait tochange pump? ... syntom?... motor hot?...???
+maskarapagana Overheating... due to no coolant circulation. Just like this one: ruclips.net/video/LiDRUWPw_f4/видео.html
How do you find TDC too take the belt off
Quick answer... turn the engine until the camshaft gear tdc marks line up.Watch this video... if you have any questions after that, let me know.
ruclips.net/video/zQNVjPilQzE/видео.html
Did you watch the video... did you find the camshaft TDC mark?
I pray to God that my car starts right up after watching this video later man
So how'd that go XD
Why do you blow on the hose?
When the engine is running, you should have coolant flowing back into the bottle through that little hose. If no coolant is flowing, the hose is plugged or the pump is not working. By blowing into the hose, I'm checking for a restriction. If there is no restriction, then air will enter the cooling system and the fluid in the reservoir will rise.
I'm no mechanic by any means, but I will tackle jobs that I feel are within my wheel of confidence, and after watching as many videos from those that have done it before. The one thing that amazes me is how some of the best mechanics like yourself just throw all those bolts around that you just removed. I have to meticulously keep track of everything with plastic baggies or something like those pill containers that have the times on them etc, and keep everything in the order I removed them. When it comes to timing belts, have they gone to primarily rubber belts vs. metal chains because they last as long or is it because they want us to have to come back to the dealer more often to replace them? Or maybe to have people that don't keep up with maintenance to have to replace the car or engine? I'm no engineer, but when this simple basic component can take out your entire engine, it makes me wonder. I know there are engines that won't get destroyed when they break, so why not make all engines that way? These questions may sound stupid to a seasoned mechanic like yourself, but it just makes me wonder.
Having done many small jobs such as this, it's a no-brainer to know which bolt goes where. Yes, some bolts shouldn't be reused (service information will tell you which).
I use a lot of zip-lock backs on "bigger jobs" such as this one.
ruclips.net/video/lRG-bxo-dRk/видео.htmlsi
Thank you for watching.
Good afternoon i have a 2.0L SOHC 2003333 golf replaced the flange housing and tempature sensor along with driver side radiator and water pump and thermostate less then 2 months ago its doesnt have any leak it just over heats after 30-45 minutes of driving there is fluid coming from the EVAP hose into the expansion tank so this means its not my waterpump again right?
check the green fuses on top of the battery (pull them out to check for burnt contacts)... your fans might not be coming on.
green fuses have been checked and i took off the evap hose ran it into the expansion tank an took rmps too 2000 to make sure water pump was working efficently
ps thanks for responding so quick! :D
+Dillon Waudby EVAP = Evaporative Emission Control (gasoline fumes)... you mean you disconnected the "coolant return" hose. If the thermostat is OK (both upper & lower radiator hoses are warm) and the fans come on at 97c, then you might have a head gasket issue, but I can not be sure over the internet. If the lower radiator hose does not get warm, then you have a thermostat issue. If both hoses are warm, but the fans do not come on, then you have a problem with the fan control circuits or bad fans.
just ran to 90c on my gauge and let it run for 15 minutes afterward the lower radiator hose didnt get warm at all so i believe no flow through the rad the top hose gets super hot well my rad/bottom hose stays cold. this im guessing couuld be nothing else but a closed thermostat
thanks for the video! saved me a lot of trouble
thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!
I have a 2002 Volkswagen jetta 2.0 with a coolant leak on the right side of the engine. Any suggestions on what it could be? And roughly a cost on getting it worked on?
Steven Charles check / replace the plastic coolant flange at the side of the cylinder head.
ruclips.net/video/C2voYiZkZIA/видео.html
Steven Charles if by right side of the engine you mean passenger side... it's probably the water pump. Replace the timing belt & tensioner at the same time. Follow the leak to its source and you will find what is leaking.
What I meant by right side was on the right while you are standing in the front of the car looking towards the back..
It would appear to me that is leaking from the engine itself but it could be from the spraying. Once again by right side I mean the air in take side.
Then check the coolant flange (as shown in the video link I gave you).
I cant seem to be able to pry the water pump out, any tips?
I use a long screwdriver or pry bar... lever against the back of the pump gear. Once the pump starts to lift away from the block, lever under the pump body.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks that worked! The lip on the top when I was prying broke off because the pump was so stuck in haha
on a 01 vw golf 2.0 where is the port to check that the trany is TDC along with the cam?
+Jared Hopkins Page 4 of this PDF shows the TDC marks for Camshaft, and the flywheel of the Manual transmission: fkh161.ca/VW/AEGTiming.pdf
My two daugheres have '00s and my wife has an '03. All 2.0 with 5-speeds. I find the easiest way to check the crank is to look for a very small nick on the harmonic balancer near the timing belt cover which will have a corresponding mark at 12:00. Of course, you'll have to do the before you remove the balancer and the cover.
Frank Howard As indicated by the pdf... yes, that also helps. the flywheel mark is more accurate for final adjustment.
Although I was able to find the inspection port with the rubber plug, I was never able to find the mark on 5-speeds. I believe the mark you're talking about is on automatics only.
Frank Howard I've worked on plenty standard & automatics... they both have the flywheel mark. The pdf in this thread shows it clearly for both.
How many hours does this actually take?
Depending on who does it and if it's just the pump or also timing belt & tensioner. 2.5 hrs is a good average time for average skill level and necessary tools. Working with the vehicle on the ground will take longer. I don't know what the "labor guide" suggested time is... if the guide says 4 hours, there's nothing wrong with a shop charging 4 hours, even if the job is done quicker.
Happy new year sir, hate to bother but my car is still slightly overheating after changing water pump, any suggestion's 😩
Slightly how? Where's the temperature needle at? Year, make, model? Which engine?
Thomas EXOVCDS the needle is between 190 and the next line when I'm going up hill, 2003 1.8t jetta
How old is the thermostat and are both fans running?
Is coolant level steady or does it rise & fall quite a bit (suggesting air in the system)?
Consistent temperatures inside the car (hot air coming & going suggests air still in the system).
Thomas EXOVCDS thermostat about 4 years old both fans are running coolant level is steady
Thomas EXOVCDS i felt hose that goes to thermostat and was warm compared to the other hoes that was very hot
What is the labor for this job?
Labor guide says:
- Water pump only - 2.7hrs
- Timing belt & tensioner - 3hrs (add extra time for cam or crank seals and water pump)
Water pump can be removed without having to remove the engine bracket or removing the timing belt completely. I would recommend to always change all components when one of them fails. The other components will not last the life of the new part.
Thomas EXOVCDS
What would you say the dollar amount is?
I was thinking of doing it with the timing belt but no thanks. Pump still good
Let me know when you have to change it / when it fails.
@@EXOVCDS bought it at 105k now its 188k did timing belt in 2017. Probably anytime now...
@@jesusspartan8951 Oh, I thought you changed the belt recently. One of the few pumps that has lasted that long then (age & mileage).
Thomas! LOVE YOUR VIDEOS and how much you have helped me fixed my Car!
I was changing the coolant reservoir because it had broken white plastic chips inside, and when I was replacing the thermostat I found Black pieces of plastic in the coolant fluid they were all behind thermostat. So I assumed it was water pump impeller.. when I removed the water pump, the impeller was intact and functional.
My question is do you think you might know what all the black plastic chips are from. 80% were fine small pieces and I found two bigger pieces that make an half circle (can send you a picture if need be).
I checked the flange on driver side of engine(where temp sensor goes) it is also intact.
Would you happen to know what might have broken inside the coolant line to float around and no bloke flow?
Send to fkh161@fkh161.ca
Not sure... pieces from a prior pump or flange?
@@EXOVCDS no sir, because I have worked on coolant before. This time i was changing thermostat and temp sensor because engine was running rich and was getting to hot to fast and thermostat wasn't opening. That's when I discovered coolant reservoir damage, and then the black plastic chips in coolant line. I seen the other day on a vid about oil cooler that the plastic might look similar to pieces I found.
fkh161@fkh161.ca. correct address to send you picture of pieces?
can you plzz make a 2006 vw jetta 2.5 water pump replacement
+Elliot Jones Support the engine, remove the passenger mount, remove the serpentine belt(s), remove the pendulum mount, raise the engine far enough to remove the pump... remove the pump. As soon as I get a chance to record it... I will.
+Thomas EXOVCDS I replaced the main engine fan the ac worked the fans seem to be on low then go fast when I turn ac only
+tommymcculloch What engine? The 1.8t will run a bit on the hot side.
Great video. Worst car I have ever had the displeasure of owning/servicing
Thank you for watching!
Is this exactly the same for a 1999 Beetle??
Yes.
@@EXOVCDS Thank You! I got a 98 Beetle, mechanic bailed on me with part of the work done. So I'm having to finish it off myself. Really appreciate the video. Quick question. Should i replace the tensioner also? It looks okay, but saw people replacing it.
@@sergalvisc Always replace the tensioner & water pump when replacing the belt.
This is a better video:
ruclips.net/video/zQNVjPilQzE/видео.html
I learned the hard way I changed a water pump on a vw and left the old belt on 6 weeks later the belt broke and bent alot of valves
yeah... while you are in there, might as well replace all the other items.
It was a tough lesson
Yh it is a 2.5L
so you didnt remove the timing belt 100% ?
If all you are doing is replacing the water pump (like in this video), then the belt does not have to be removed from the engine. If you ARE changing the belt, then the engine mount has to come out as well... one of my other videos shows this. I'll find the link and will post it here in a minute.
The other video (where you first posted a comment) is the one that shows belt removal. ruclips.net/video/NqxBb06IT24/видео.html
***** in my case the water pump was leaking past the seal - though the belt looks dry my guess is i should maybe replace the belt as I would assume coolant would have leaking onto the belt - your opinion? and again - your vid is on point.
Andrew Claflin I always recommend replacing the belt, water pump & tensioner at the same time. Unless I know the belt is only 1 year old & was not contaminated. We always buy timing belt kits, though, so 99% of the time all is changed.
bout how long it take ya do water pump on 2.0 bug
Depends on what else needs to be done (cam & crank seal) including filling / bleeding the cooling system and verifying coolant fan & thermostat operation.
+Thomas EXOVCDS OK I'm mechanicaly inclined I found a water pump kit on Amazon for $41 pump-timing belt- tensior free 2 day shipping what be ya opinion on it the seller has 99% rating if buy it around here looking at round $150
+Thomas EXOVCDS thank you for replying n advice plus great videos
Cheaper isn't always better. If you can deal / buy from someone local, it's easier to deal with things (wrong parts, warranty).
+Thomas EXOVCDS I was goin to ask this other day could thermostat be hung shut? it prevent flow correct?
no wander the mechanic labor is so exspensive
Thomas Coughran It's worse with new cars.
is it mandatory to TDC?
Nothing is mandatory, but it makes things easier & safer because there are alignment marks for the camshaft & crankshaft to ensure that the engine stays "in time". If you do not set to TDC, you take the chance of assembling things "out of time" which can result in engine damage. It takes less than 5 minutes to turn the engine to TDC... it takes more than 6 hours to repair broken / bent intake valves.
Thomas EXOVCDS I tried to TDC but idles real rough. in ur video u looked to the right after u set the TDC. is there somewhere else I need to look to confirm its set?
midnightclub2319 Page 3 & 4 of this PDF shows the marks that need to be aligned:
fkh161.ca/VW/AEGTiming.pdf
Take pictures of the camshaft sprocket & the transmission window, when the cam sprocket is at TDC. Send pictures to fkh161@fkh161.ca so that I can see if you set things correctly.
Thomas EXOVCDS thanks for that. I'll read up on this and do this next time I work on it. I'll send u the pics when I get them. not sure if I'll get to work on them this wk but if I can I will. thanks again
midnightclub2319 The engine is an interference fit engine... if things are out too far, valves will / can bend. Be careful!
Fuck this, im a just take it to the shop
Best way to have / get warranty on parts & labor.
Alfred Tovar exactly what I was thinking....
Sir...I'm sure you have forgotten more than I will ever learn about cars. I hope to one day possess the skill you have,,,But the truth is this is not a good video for DIY people. All you did was showcase your skills. I'm giving you honest criticism so that you can make better videos... I still learned and hope to see more videos of yours. This is not a burn...respect comes from honesty
JB
I'm recording while I am at work... I will lose my job if I take too long (explaining everything, showing everything from every angle).
I AM NOT POSTING DIY VIDEOS!!!! I'm not shouting... I am stating the obvious!
Watch Ericthecarguy (he does not have a full time job like I do)... that's why he can make DIY videos.
Respect!
Understood...so concentrate on the video or concentrate on work..one is bound to suffer...
One day when I can quit my day job and do youtube full time... I will be able to make better videos! :)
Touche!...
I found this to be the only video which actually shows a straight to the point removal of the WP without 3 hours of added work
Vw place wanted to charge me $600. Did it myself in 3 hours with a $30 part and just flitered and reused coolant
Thank you for sharing your DIY success... thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS thank you for the video. I really like that you gave bolt sizes it saved me so much time.
se model
Can't understand why the customer wouldn't want to replace the belt and tensioner while you were in there anyway. It wouldn't have added anything to the labor.
+William Mcquade It's usually a family member or friend who suggests to them that those items are still ok... we make a note of stuff like that, so that we have it on file, in the event it comes back with a failed component.
Support the weight of the engine? WHAT? What were German engineers thinking?
Changing spark plugs on some non VW/Audi vehicle is more complicated than this.
Often, German engineers think way too much. The motor mount is in the way, and I think it goes thru the timing belt.
Making the engine compartment as small as possible seems to be a goal for VW.
Fuck! It is easy like in Renault. I have mk4, that is not already VW. Half engine is down only for one water pump.
1. Remove engine.
2. Replace water pump.
3. Re-install engine...
Not quite... these are easy ones. I've done many that are of a worse design.
Trading my wife's 2017 Golf...............bad water pump $1375 to replace a piece of crap with a piece of crap. Vega was better.
Fools change the everything not just the waterpump
Paulino Fernandes We told them that the belt & tensioner should also be replaced. The customer is always right (not)... but if they don't want the belt & tensioner, then that's their decision.
🎃🎃
Thank you for watching!