VW A4: Overheating 2.0L quick checks as to why (first 3 min)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 19 мар 2016
- Thomas
P.O. Box 83041
4827 Kingsway
Burnaby, BC
V5H 0A4
Canada
EXOVCDS Swag: 1060461.spreadshirt.ca/
Rate, Comment, Share, Subscribe, Let the Ads play... I'm still paying off my tools!! Tool or Coffee & Donut Donations welcome at my website below!!
fkh161.ca/
Discuss this video in the Subscribed Members Forum:
exovcds.freeforums.org/
Check out my Picture on on Instagram:
/ exovcds
When & Where Needed:
*** Raise & support the vehicle safely according to Manufacturer Jacking & Supporting Positions!!! ***
VW Service Manuals: $35/24hr access (download as much as you want)
erwin.vw.com
Audi Service Manuals: $35/24hr access (download as much as you want)
erwin.audiusa.com
VW Tools:
vw.snapon.com
Audi Tools:
audi.snapon.com 
Авто/Мото
Incredible. Just incredible. Simply a masterclass on cooling system diagnosis, operation, and repair in 18 minutes. Thanks for sharing this!
LOL... I'm sure I missed some info or could have explained better, but thank you! =)
I hope you realize that my voice to text put in rancher when I meant wrencher... Hahaha
literally I love you, I'm a 16 year guy in high school and I don't know anyone that works on cars, and even if I did I always wondered where they would start, short of just waiting for their car to break and showing me how to fix it. your videos diagnose the problem, give tips, and tell how to fix it. exactly what I needed. only thing I would request is be overly descriptive for what you're doing, cause for me working on cars is confusing so being very descriptive in your explanations makes it all the easier to understand and comprehend. you just earned yourself a sub, and I'll be looking forward to seeing your channel grow.
Caleb Lea Thank you for the kind words & the sub! I can't spend much time talking about what is going on, since I'm recording while I'm at work. Adding more information during editing adds time, so I keep my edits as short as possible. I answer / reply to all comments. so if you ever have questions... feel free to ask. Finding a trades school that offers an Automotive training program can be a good start / of help before finding an actual place that will take you on as an apprentice, but you can start working at an automotive shop without Post Secondary training. You'll be going through an apprenticeship anyways... you work and then go to school, work and then go to school. My apprenticeship was 4 years... theory you learn in school is great, but what you learn on the job they can't teach in school.
I've watched a few of your videos before and found them really helpful. However today this video has helped hugely. Thank you for sharing as not that many people are willing to share experience. I had this exact issue on my s3 and these simple checks to back up what I had already done saved me a headache. An hour and a new thermostat later and my cars running at 92 degrees again. Thank you 👍 subscribed
Thank you for sharing your DIY success... it's nice to hear that one of my videos was of help to someone. Thank you for watching!
This is an incredibly helpful video. This and many of your other videos have given me the direction and confidence to fix anything I come across for the 3 VW TDi's in my family. Thanks!
+Brad Sherwin Thank you very much... that is nice to hear! If you ever have any questions, feel free to ask... I try to reply as quick & as best as possible.
I must say Thomas that you know these cars pretty darn good. And that white board of knowledge was great! Take care Thomas...
I am 69 years old and had a good number of VW and BMW and all kinds of diverse cars. Thomas show its what I watch all ways.
I can't find your address... I wrote it on a piece of paper and can't find it.
If you could, send it again to: fkh161@fkh161.ca
By far the best I have seen of your uploads. It gives people good relevant troubleshooting information and tips how to diagnose a problem and fix. More of this type of video and less just fixing and the sky is the limit. Thanks
+Stuart Barley Thank you... we will see what happens / where youtube takes me.
Thomas EXOVCDS
You
thank you very much, by this quick test I found that my pump went out. replaced pump with no problems. just took me whole day, a lot need to be remove..
Thanks for watching & sharing your DIY experience!
It's always nice to watch you work on VW's.
It's nice because it means that
I'm not working on mine
LOL
Just changed out my timing belt,water pump, thermostat, and tensioner, both intake manifold gaskets, valve cover gasket, head gasket.,and Cam tensioner gasket on my beetle just by watching your videos no Bentley or Haynes used. All I have to say is DONT STOP MAKING VIDEOS!!! Lol my wife yells at me to put my phone down all the time because she gets annoyed by the sounds of the impacts
Service manuals are helpful... you can download as many as you want, for as many VW's as you want, for $35 USD from erwin.vw.com/erwin/showHome.do $35 is a 24hr subscription, within that time you can download what you need. The PDF files do not expire.
Thank you for all your information on over heating problems end up figuring out I had a broken wire going too the sensor on the rad thanks again keep them coming
Nice to hear that my videos have been of help... thank you for watching!
I found the problem!!! Crap plastic impeller failed and was just spinning on its axis!! So damn happy!!
Good job sticking with it... best way to get to know your car!
Excellent video, Thomas, thank you! I've been a DIY rancher for close to 60 years, and you taught me a few things that I can use on my A4 Audi. Of course, the question comes to mind regarding German engineering..... And their use of unreforced plastic in the cooling system, including the impeller and the coolant flange. Both known problems, but like BMW.... And yes, I also have one of those because I am a glutton for punishment LOL.... Which can't seem to produce a 6 cylinder engine which doesn't leak oil. But I do admit volkswagens, audis, and BMWs drive incredibly well. Probably as well as my 87 turbo Supra 🙃. Again, thank you for a very well done and informative video.
Thank you... kind of you to say. Keep in mind that this video is for VW A4's (4th generation of the A Platform... Golf & Jetta). Your Audi "A4" is of the Audi B Platform, where generations are B5,B6,B7 etc. Yes, modern BMW's see to have a lot of oil leak issues. That's why I drive 30 year old BMW's. =)
Thank you for watching!
Excelente trabajo, impecable, una persona que sabe de lo que habla. Te felicito. Gracias por compartirlo
I swear I’ve came across your videos so many times and I think this is gonna be my savior!!! Lmfao I’m gonna try it tomorrow morning. My coolant temp light keeps flashing.. diagnosing is a headache
I have a VW Golf gti 1997 2.0 automatic
@@LAEdgar 97 mk3's don't have water pump impeller problems. Check your thermostat. You can check for coolant flow "into the reservoir bottle" (via the small return hose). If there is flow, then the water pump is OK. If there is no flow... remove the hose and blow into it. If you can NOT blow into it, then the hose is plugged or the fitting at the head is plugged. If you CAN blow into it AND there is no flow into the reservoir bottle.... then it "could" be a water pump problem.
@@LAEdgar If the temperature needle stays in the MIDDLE... then it is NOT an overheating issue. Either a faulty coolant reservoir "level" sensor or a problem in the dash.
Just came across your channel and immediately subscribed. Very impressive work !
Thank you... but my POV videos take time to get used to, your views might change. :)
You a good man for sharing your knowledge...
I like to say thank you so much and keep doing it they are so helpful 👌🏼
Thank you and thank you for watching!
If you have specific questions or need specific information, let me know. I don't always post "installation" videos, but I can answer any questions you might have... or at least I try to answer as best I can.
Video in my opinion is good. But comment section is what makes this channel INVALUABLE and different in most positive way from other automotive channels.
Thank you... but what did you mean with your earlier comment?
Oh! Thank you so much. going to check things out like you showed to find out my coolant problems.
Great u tube and instructions. 👍
Thank you for watching!
Thanks love the episodes I watch every show and learn a lot.
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Send me your mailing address and I'll send you some of my channel stickers.
fkh161 @ fkh161 .ca (no spaces)
I have your address, thank you. I removed your comment. I will send stickers this week!
Nice clear diagnosis for people to watch 👍🏼 do you remember how many km they made it on that original belt and pump?
+Michael Shone I think it was 123K km
Hey Thomas, great video and you are very modest and humble. I appreciate your videos as well as the other comments on here. I have contacted you a few times via email and I must say you have a good heart to explain, show and help others.
I do have one question, Is this coolant purge tool the same as the other mk4 coolant video - Uview 55000?
Thanks again Thomas.
The cooling system filler is a Snap-On unit, but similar to this:
www.uview.com/index.cfm?dsp=productdetail&id=45700&productid=5120
It is NOT required to fill / bleed an engine, but can make life easier.
As long as the coolant return hose (to the reservoir) is clear and the water pump is good... there should not be any issues with bleeding / filling a system the old fashioned way.
Thank you sir. 👍
Great videos man so much information quick question I have a 2008 Volkswagen rabbit that I have had the water pump, coolant and even thermostat replaced not long ago and yet after about a half hour of driving the vans kick on super loud and my tempature starts to creep higher and higher wile at a stop but once I start driving the tempature returns to normal what do you think could be causing this?
I also notice when my car is cold the coolant is a above the maximum line could this mean I have too much coolant in the system ?
Thank you
There might be an issue with a temperature sensor not activating low speed. The fans should be pulse width operated... meaning that the ECM will send a signal to the fan module to turn the fans on, at whatever speed needed. There might be a problem with a coolant temperature sensor... check the engine & other modules for fault codes. If temperature is ok while cruising, it's not a thermostat issue and the radiator is not restricted. Level is ok to be a little above max. Under pressure, the level might come down a little. Air in the cooling system "should" bleed itself out into the reservoir bottle, as long as the small return hose at the reservoir is not plugged.
Good video & repair . Nice trick to zoom in on the Vagcom data pid. Where did you buy the extra long data cable?
It's just a usb extension cable... thanks for watching!
This guy sure is good explain in detail very educational
Thank you for watching.
Your knowledge is much appreciated!
+Joe Blow I'm still learning... Thank you for watching!
Fantastic. Best fitter ive ever seen
Thank you for watching!
any concern about head warp after overheating? or gasket leak? do you usually replace both the w/p and timing belt as a pair when working on either?
Yes... depending on how severe the overheating was, head gasket or other components might fail / surface at a later time. Always install a complete kit (pump, belt tensioner etc).
Thanks exovcds and yes I do have a question:
I got a vw jetta 2.0 2002 and is not heating inside the car like it should.
It takes forever to warm up just a little .
You know the cool weather almost here!!!
The thermostat is probably bad.
ruclips.net/video/GM6FzBMNQIc/видео.html
Man...just need to see the first 2 minutes to stop the vídeo and give you a thump up and subscribe to your Chanel
Second: nice bar to rize up the engine...its home made or where I can find one?
Third: awesome tool box bro!!
Thank for give us a master class
Thank you for the kind words and subscribing!
Send me your mailing address and I'll send you some channel stickers!
Great diagnosis, explanation and fix there thomas. The last belt and pump I did was a contitech kit, the pump that I removed had a moulded metal impeller, still in excellent shape overall, think it was hepu branded pump, the contitech kit pump had a metal impeller but it was flimsy and tack welded together, wasn't impressed with it at all. It had 'Made in Canada' stamped on the pump! Shoddy canadian manufacturing, must be from the french part... : )
+tipptop9 I've seen those flimsy looking pumps... not very impressed with them.
+Thomas EXOVCDS I was surprised to be honest because contitech have a good name here the same as gates if not better. Maybe it was the tensioner that was made in Canada now that I think back, will be buying gates in future or at least getting the water pump separately.
Wonderful video. Thank you so much!
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Hey looking to see if you can help. I have a 2003 2.slow GLS model and the large fan which I think is the engine fan does not kick on. Even when I turn on the AC. As for the little fan, it runs perfectly fine. Anything I should check out before I run into serious problems? Thanks
Replace the large fan... it is most likely burnt out. BOTH fans should come on when the radiator gets hot or when AC is turned ON. The fact that the little one works, tells me that the fuse is OK. BOTH fans use the same fuse. Unless there is a wiring problem with the large fan, the fan is most likely bad. Here's a video for replacing the large fan (for a 1.8T), yours will be easier.ruclips.net/video/RD70uB_Iji4/видео.html
Do i really have to be really carefully from the timing points ..or pulleys to stay in place
You can mark the belt & pulleys and transfer the marks to the new belt. Whichever way you would like... if you get it wrong, the engine will run rough... if you get it really wrong, then the engine will bend valves.
Thomas thank you very much for the videos they are very helpful. Do you have one about the fans? I will check the things you showed tomorrow but I am concerned because only the small fan turns on, but not till the temp hits about 232F.
Test the fans directly at each connector (apply power & ground). I bet that your large fan is no good and that your small fan "low speed" is burnt out.
Neither of my fans turn on either, no matter how hot it gets but they both come on when I turn the air conditioning or the heat on. The fuse is good as well. However, when I remove fuse 16 inside the car, the fans come on immediately. I assumed that this was a thermostat problem.
+James James How hot / warm is the lower rad hose?
James James
Gerald Teague I doubt he will reply back.
Quick question. So my 2.5 beetle is leaking coolant when I pour it in and after driving seems like it's boiling in the reservoir. And the AC only works when not recirculating. Any idea what it could be?
If you have a leak, you need to fix the leak first. If it is leaking because it's overheating, you need to figure out why it's overheating. Do you have heat inside the car? No heat inside the car could be because of a bad water pump. If the radiator is not getting hot, then the thermostat is stuck closed. With AC ON, the radiator fans should be running, if NOT, then there might be a problem with the fans.
Fantastic check =P
+Pablo A Thank you!
Good stuff as always! ;-)
Thank you for watching!
Hey Thomas, I've been having cooling issues with my 2003 VW Jetta for a while now. The car starts up and warms up with no issue and I also get heat in the cabin (although its constant heat). But once in a while, after driving for a while the temperature suddenly spikes to the highest and the temperature sensor light comes on. Most of the time it returns back to normal by itself or I simply turn the car off for a while and its back to normal. However, recently I was stuck in traffic and the temperature spiked again, I could not turn it off so I kept on driving for about 30 mins. I pulled into a parking lot and suddenly I noticed intense white smoke coming out from the coolant side of the engine and apparently all the coolant also drained from underneath the car at the same time. I tuned it off and took the coolant cap off and there was lots of smoke coming out from it (no coolant left inside). I left it to cool off for about an hour, then refilled the coolant which took a while, and drove back home which was about 40 mins away and surprisingly the car had absolutely no issues on my way back. It was like nothing had happened but I know something is definitely wrong. I changed the little green temperature sensor but I still often get sudden spikes in the temperature after driving for a while. What do you think could possibly be wrong with it? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Did you check fan operation like in this video? Is the lower radiator hose getting hot? Does the heat inside the car go away when the car starts to overheat? If temperatures only spike when you are NOT moving, then it is an electrical / radiator fan issue. If it also spikes while at cruising speeds, then it is either a water pump issue or a thermostat issue (more likely water pump). Overheating an engine that badly, will result in a head gasket failure... and all plastic coolant pipes / connections / flanges (including the radiator) will have been stressed & weakened by the overheating... so they will be prone to early failure.
hi man!
I have Golf mk4 GTi,and some problems with cooling system...
I have the flow through the small hoe that goes on the top of reservoir,and also when I blow in that small hoe,the air is coming out in reservoir...heating works...but when I drive around 10+ kilometres (cca 6 miles) and I open the cooling system's plug,the bobbles show up in reservoir and the level of the water rises...and also both of my fans start to work when I turn the car on(on a cold engine)....is my problem air gap somewhere in the engine or in radiator..or could it be thermostat?
and also the upper hoe from radiator is hot,and the one that goes from the bottom of radiator is cold.
You should never open the reservoir bottle when the engine is warm / hot... the pressure in the system can force hot coolant out of the reservoir and you can burn your skin.
Cold engine, the fans should not come on, unless you have turned the AC on or the heater on defrost.
How high does the temperature needle move? If it goes past the middle (190F /90c), then the thermostat is probably not opening. A bad water pump would not cause fluid to circulate... since you have fluid going back to the reservoir and heat inside the car, the water pump should be ok. The lower hose should get warm to almost the same temperature as the upper hose. So thermostat is probably stuck closed.
hmm...AC is definitely turned of,but I'm not sure for the heater on defrost since I bought the car month ago and I drove it less than 15 times 😂
The longest drive I had it was for around 35 miles without stop and mostly on high rpms...The car is not overheating and what I noticed yesterday is like I sad,fans start to work right away when I turn the car on...when I noticed the problems with cooling sistem,the level of cooling fluid was on less than minimum,I opened the reservoir,fluid came up 1"more than MAX line is...and after 30 sec,the fluid level was on the middle of MIN and MAX...and hoe what's dow was cold,and upper one hot
Drive the car and then park it over night. In the morning, before you start the engine, remove the reservoir cap. You should not have any pressure in the system. If pressure is present... you might have a head gasket issue.
Thanks for the very informative video. However, when conducting the water pump test (observing coolant flow via the return pipe), should coolant flow immediately from a cold start and even before the thermostat is fully open or can such an observation only be made after the coolant has reached its normal operating temperature at around 90 degrees Celsius? Your comments and advice are greatly appreciated.
Coolant is always circulating even when the thermostat is closed... since the water pump should always be pumping. So yes, you should have fluid flowing back into the reservoir right away... at any temperature.
Thank you very much for your quick response. Now, it's looks as though the severe overheating issue I experienced yesterday was caused by a water pump failure which, as you suggest in your video, may have also caused the thermostat to stick in the closed position.
If you have no heat inside the car (heat goes away when blower is on high speed)... that is another indicator that the pump is not pumping coolant.
Cheers for the additional info. BTW, love Rush - Spirit Of Radio (Permanent Waves, 1980)
Does the new water pump have any upgrade? I heard that the new polymer material won't break like that.
+mi lu The one I installed has a metal impeller: instagram.com/p/BDEOBMTFDao/ instagram.com/p/BDEOP8GFDbM/ The "new style / type" of plastic that is uses is "supposed" to be better. We install plastic or metal... depending on what comes in the kit.
I wonder if you can help me. I have a MK5 2005 1.9TDI Golf. The heater is intermittent. Yesterday after swapping the thermostat the cabin got hot. Then after I'd been driving for around 20 minutes it went cold again (this seems to have been after revving it hard) and the temp showed 90 on the dash. Opened the bonnet and both fans are spinning, cold air in the cabin and bottom radiator hose is cold. The weird thing is there DOES seem to be flow and the radiator hoses were taken off to check the rad today, flow through the radiator with a hose is fine. I'm now stuck with my broken care and now idea what's wrong with it. Any ideas?
Metal or plastic water pump impeller? Could be a loose impeller on the pump.
Could be an issue with the temperature blend door or sensor.
Use a scan tool to monitor / check blend door position and temperature sensor values (for the different vent positions).
Run basic settings of the flap motors... unless your system is cable operated, then check for correct operation of the blend doors visually from under the dash.
TDI engines will have a cold lower radiator hose for a long time (thermostat takes a long time to open). Once you drive the vehicle, the radiator & lower hose get cold again quick... so that does not always mean bad thermostat or water pump.
As long as the temperature needle doesn't move past the middle (90c / 190F), the water pump & thermostat should be OK.
The heater core is of an open circulation design like the mk4's (if I recall correctly)... meaning there should always be flow. Feel the heater core hoses to see if they are the same temperature.
Car is safe to drive as long as the temperature needle doesn't go past the middle. Use AC to defog the windshield.
I like the way u fix the problem i hope the mechanic i took my beetle do the same thing coz i have the same problem
Thank you for watching... let me know what your mechanic finds. Here's a Beetle video:
ruclips.net/video/ln4grYe3WnE/видео.html
Im so piss rigth now the mechanic is charging me 1800 for replacing all the part but also telling me that they haven't fix the overheating problem.same reason i brought the car to them
you are Very efficient at what you do, very thorough also. I have a question if you could help. I have a 2013 VW Sharan 7N (diesel 2.0 CR), only overheats after 20 mins or so at highway speeds. Have changed coolant temp sensor and even the radiator. My friend took for drive on diagnostic machine to check fan opening etc, and seems ok. But he never took it for run on highway where I see the issue. Should I changed thermostat and or water pump? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
When was the last timing belt & water pump change?
The thermostat would be the cheaper repair to start with. If that does not solve things, the water pump may have to be next. A thermostat that is not opening fully, can restrict coolant flow under higher rpm / load... but be OK at lower engine speeds (because TDI engines don't produce as much heat as gasoline engines).
@@EXOVCDS many thanks for the response. The engine was fitted as last one got damaged. So new engine was probably stripped to the bone and may be a possibility that timing belt and water pump were used from the older engine, that is going to be checked later on this week. But I will do that and change thermostat first. The old pd engines head gasket would become porous and even though it gave none of the typical symptoms it would actually be the head gasket that was the issue on them. But this car is a 2.0 TDI common rail engine, head gaskets have been made very well by VW and they very rarely go
@@keyman-hk7hv ok, let me know what happens after changing the thermostat.
@@EXOVCDS will do. Many thanks
@@EXOVCDS Hi Thomas, changed the inline thermostat with no luck and genuine water pump and timing belt kit seat Alhambra 2013 diesel still overheating at highway speeds. Have not changed main thermostat but mechanic here is saying he's tested sensors etc and does not think it's main thermostat. What should oil temperature when car is being driven? As I have realised that the car will not show it's overheating until the oil temperature doesn't read 116 degrees. Do you think this can be linked?
hey thomas. my alhambra keeps overheating. i ve had the water pump changed. when up to temperature, the water resevoir is empty. when i slowly remove the resevoir cap, at 1 point water rushes back into the resevoir. what wrong here?
When the engine is running, reservoir / coolant cap off... can you see coolant flowing back into the coolant reservoir from the small return hose? The faster the engine rpm, the harder the stream of coolant coming out?
Hei Thom, I really hope you could help me here. I been replacing my cam and lifters on my audi a6 3.0L. Lifters are exact same all across vw/audi motors. Same as 2.0L, 1.8T, 2.0T, 2.7T, 2.8, 3.0, 3.2, etc. What I don't know is how to set those lifters. Everywhere it says I should let lifters set for at least 12hrs or else valve/piston contact will occur. I don't understand what I should do. I noticed that new lifters have plungers that are pushable. Old lifters are dead hard and plungers can not be pushed. I soaked the new lifters in oil for 24 hrs and nothing changed. Tried pumping the plungers while in oil, but they don't go hard. What do I need to do here?
All hydraulic lifters have plungers... the ones you can not compress are just fully pumped up. Lifters that are soft will collapse easy, but will also pump up once the engine is running. After you install the cams and by the time you get everything back together, the lifters will gave settled and it will be OK to start the engine.
If you installed a cam on a fully pumped up lifter, the valve will stay open slightly... that's when you need to wait before starting the engine.
Ooo, Thom, there's a reason we all love you so much! You are number 1! Thanks again so so much!
+Rumen Hristov If I'm wrong... I'm sorry.
I put my trust in you!
12 year old timing belt... WHY??
Good fix; love the explanation of engine temperature with your "whiteboard" graph. :D
+rhkips I know, right!? Thanks! Anything more technical and I would have to refer you to a couple of other automotive channels! :)
Very good 👍 information I have the same engine and problem but have alot of heat so I'll try it really would rather not do a waterpump hoping for thermostat 🤞 even though you made that job look like a 10 minute job
Most likely thermostat... unless your fans don't work due to a bad fuse (but then the car should be fine while driving at cruising speeds / only overheat when not moving).
@@EXOVCDS fans work for sure already checked them and it's even on the highway
@@Michael-uo4jj yeah, thermostat then.
what if the coolant in the resevoir is boiling after a couple minutes and white smole comes out the tail pipes?
Year, make, model, engine? Engines usually don't overheat in a couple of minutes, even when the water pump is not pumping.
Head gasket?
Hi Thomas, love your work, excellent explanations with what you find and how you go about repairing it,, could really use a guy like you here! well I have a question and understand you may not get it dead correct as I am only typing it here but please could you give your advise as what you think , I brought a mk5 golf gt tdi 168 bhp recently , I checked nothing as from an auction and have no recourse to return the car, so I drove home 30 miles all seemed well,
in the morning I Start the car and the stop engine came on with check coolant,,, I then see the coolant had exploded out of the expansion tank and over the engine bay,,
so I then see it had some kind of copper grease inside which I have now fund was kseal gasket sealant,,,,,
so I flushed the coolant system and put steel seal into the expansion tank to try to see if this would work, car is fine sitting idle or under 2000 rpm, the steel seal didn't work as when I got up to 3000 rpm on road test it came out again the expansion tank,
so I flushed again and tried kseal ultimate and yet again same thing,,, but I have ross tech and I monitored the temp of coolant which was up to around 87-88, then went to 92 when driven a bit harder, then it went to 100 degree and the expansion tank blew yet again,,,
so it seems to over pressure if driven hard, I have checked the water comes from the top hose and is clear, would this seem to be a head gasket to you? I wonder if it is head gasket why is the kseal or steel seal not repairing it,
thanks for reading such a long post and thanks in advance if you find the time to reply!
mk5 gold 2l tdi Gt 168 bhp
It is most likely a head gasket issue... steel seal (or any stop leak product) can only do its job when it gets to the leak and is able to seal it. A lot of time, the sealant never makes it to the problem area... or it plugs up different areas. We don't use any type of stop leak powders or liquids. Run the engine up to temperature with a bit of harder load (radiator hoses will feel very firm if a head gasket issue is present). Allow the engine to cool off over night. If a head gasket issue is to blame, the pressure in the cooling system will remain over night(in most head gasket cases). If the hoses are still solid / firm the next morning, it's time to pull the cylinder head. There are other ways to check for head gasket issues... best one being checking for combustion gases in the cooling system.
Thank you ever so much for your swift reply! yes the pressure still came out the morning after the expansion tank was still pressured when I opened it, last question ! do the heads on these need to be skimmed as I read that vw says not to skim them on the forums?
thanks again love your work!
Diesel engines in general shouldn't be skimmed (VW / Audi at least).
Check with your local machine shop (the experts / past experience) as to what they think.
I'm no mechanic seeing your procedure I appreciate you recording the process. A look into an excellent mechanics mind. Quick question, can blowing air into the overflow tube cause air to get trapped in the system? And for those jettas, do they basically bleed the system the way it's designed? Thanks for your time if you answer
The overflow tube is an air bleed hose... so blowing into it (for testing) is not an issue, as the air will be pushed back out once the engine is running (as long as the water pump is OK and there are no restrictions in any of the bleed hoses / fittings).
ruclips.net/video/JnTUr0SEJBw/видео.html
@@EXOVCDS thanks man. I love people like you who do effective things. Instead of running in circles. Thanks for the insight. If you ever need to learn how to wheelie a motorcycle, message me 🤣.
Hi Thomas, thanks for your videos!
i have a problem with my car and wonder if you can help,
i have vw bora 1.9 TDI 2003.
my temp needle goes to the middle as it should when the car get warm,
after about 10 15 min, the needle start to float between the middle to the zero random, I replaced the temp sensor and it didnt do nothing.
i have coolant flow back from the small hose.
my fans work when they should.
the needle temp never goes beyond the middle.
do you have any idea?
thank you!
Thermostat that is opening too soon? But usually temperature sensor issue. Make sure it is a green sensor.
@@EXOVCDS
Thank you for replaying.
I'll try to replace the sensor to another one. Of course green one.
But I try to understand, how it's can be thermostat issue? Why the needle stay steady on the middle for the first 15 minutes? What's happening later that the needle float randomaly between the middle and the zero up and down, up and down...?
It also could stay sometimes in the middle or at the zero for a good few minutes...
Thanks a lot!
Then it's most likely electrical (wiring or sensor).
The engine will take longer to warm up when a thermostat sticks open... once at 90c (needle is in the middle) and you start driving at steady speed, the needle can start to go down. If it goes all the way down, then it's not a thermostat issue.
@@EXOVCDS
Thank you so much!
excellent video the first minutes diagnosis are awesome info.
what is the normal operating temp for an engine, i asked once for an overheating problem in my passat 2.8 i replaced the thermostat (won't trust anymore on duralast), i installed a new one meyle 80 celsius (only available at store). i bled out as much air as i can following your directions. no more gurgling sounds in heating core.
now i got heat inside aroun 77 c, the temp needle stays still in middle 96 c in my scanner. but as soon as i put the reservoir cap on the temp starts to rise passing the middle, over 120 c in the scanner. could it be the cap an issue? or is still air in the system? :( all these temp readings are at idle, top hose hot hot to the touc, lower hose not as much hot
Lower hose for the most part will be cold to the touch, since the viscous radiator fan is always cooling the radiator. Temperature needle should always stay in the middle 90c / 190F once the engine is warm / thermostat has opened. Temperature (when viewed with a scan tool) can fluctuate quite a bit due to thermostat operation... while the needle in the dash stays steady at around 90c / 190F.
If the needle in the dash moves past 90c when the reservoir cap is ON, check the system for pressure once the engine has cooled off over night. On a cold start, first remove the cap and then tighten the cap. Start the engine and allow the engine to warm-up fully. Lower hose should get warm eventually at idle or hold the rpm at 1500 to 2000 until the lower hose is warm. Check the system pressure by squeezing the upper radiator hose. Should be firm but not SOLID SOLID. Shut engine off and allow to cool down for several hours. When the upper hose is cold to the touch, the hose should be easy to squeeze again... if the hose is still solid (cooling system has pressure), then compression gasses are leaking into the cooling system. One or both head gaskets are bad. If you remove the reservoir cap the next morning (after the engine has had time to cool down completely) and you get air pressure coming out of the reservoir... that is a sure sign that there is a head gasket problem. Before condemning a head gasket, install a new reservoir cap, to make sure that the cap is not at fault.
The cap should release pressure when the pressure gets too much... usually around 1.4 to 1.6 bar (20 to 23 psi). Normal running pressures can be 15 to 18psi.
Correction / clarification... the cap vents excess pressure to protect the cooling system when pressure is 20psi or more. It is normal for pressure to build & drop when the engine is warming up & cooling down. It is NOT the cap that is lowering the pressure... when coolant gets hot, pressure develops (coolant & the air in the system expand). When coolant & air in the system cool down, pressure drops... this is normal.
Thomas EXOVCDS ok, thanks once again for your reply, hope isn't the head gasket :( I'll replace the cap and do those checks,
I don't have yet a milky engine oil.
Is there a way to pinpoint if the gases are going to the reservoir? A machine or something, does the liquid that turns from blue to yellow tester works?
Yes, you can get a liquid that changes color when "combustion gasses" mix with the liquid. ScannerDanner has a good video about that: ruclips.net/video/k5VVcNKAK6U/видео.html
No need to buy a cap yet... check pressures first (by feel with your hand).
It's good to do a little maintenance at least once every 12 years in the life of a vehicle.
+Garth Goldberg New to-us customer... I'm quite sure that the pump is original. Belt "could" have been replaced at some point, but I doubt it. It looked pretty good considering. I didn't get much info from the boss and not sure if he bothered asking for repair history. Once we know what we need... we stick with that.
lol
@@EXOVCDS wwalli.g out in 4 min I swear I'm up
hey thomas, if the thermostat is stuck OPEN, wouldn''t that cause no heat in the cabin?
No... you will still have heat, just not as strong and as fast as when the thermostat is working correctly.
Has any one know why I would have this large cut out on the underside of my Tiguan . How do I include a picture
You have a RUclips account. Post a video.
Posted on your site, thanks. :)
+Billy P. Got it.
Your awesome dude...I hardely say tht......
thank you for watching!
2.0L, where is the thermostat located? Such a maze of hoses. Great Video - Thank You
Part 1: ruclips.net/video/6Hb_zuttLqE/видео.html
Link to part 2 is in the description.
You are very helpful. Thank you
Thank you for watching.
Let me know what your results are or if you need further help.
Great video, I have a coupe items I need to check per your video.
My issue, is a bit different though. Vehicle only overheats at highway speed(higher RPM) and there is HEAT out the vents at all times. I was initially thinking that it was the water pump "slipping" at higher engine RPM's as I have heard the plastic impeller can partially fail. Now your logic at 3:34 has me questioning because you say no heat=bad pump. Thanks for the video!!
Head gasket can cause air pockets that interfere with coolant circulation. Test / check for combustion gases in the cooling system. The pump impeller can be checked by removing the thermostat.
Thomas EXOVCDS- really appreciate the reply. I am trouble shooting tomorrow. Thanks
All right trouble shot the water pump as per your video and its flowing at idle and ~4000 rpm so if it is slipping I couldnt tell. That being said the amount of fluid flowing didnt seem to change much at different rpms. The engine reached over 90 degrees (past mid point) and the fans never turned on. I let it run like that for 10 mins and the lower rad house remained cold. Am I right to suspect the thermostat is failed closed? Is the sensor for the fans on the lower portion of the cooling system? Thanks again, I plan to buy you a coffee :)
Craig D What year car & engine... I might have missed that. Pull the tgermostat... if the water pump is next to it (1.8t, 1.9 TDI, 2.0L) then you can check the impeller by trying to move it with your fingers. If the pump feels fine / does not move, install a different thermostat.
Craig D 1.8t and TDI engines sometimes have restrictors in the return hose at the reservoir. Flow should definitely increase when comparing idle to 3000+ rpm.
How do you diagnose blocked radiator ? Have an overheating T5 2.0 L diesel bi turbo FWD .Water pump inspection ok. Thermostat ok. After driving for 15 minutes temp. Goes to 90 , is stable for a little while , goes up to 130 and then back down , loses coolant via expansion chamber. There is flow from overflow, but not the best. No signs of head gasket leak. Cabin heating intermittent. Test temp of cores with laser temp probe? What steps next? Pull radiator and inspect?
Cabin heat should be stable (hot when in hot position) no matter radiator condition / flow. I'm not familiar with this engine (or vehicle)... any prior work / service that lead up to this issue or did this just surface one day? Inconsistent heat is usually a water pump or head gasket issue (providing that the cooling system was initially free of air / combustion gases). The radiator has an IN & OUT hose... disconnect the IN hose from the radiator and point it into a container. Start the engine and hold the revs at 2000 (add coolant to the reservoir as the fluid level drops) to gauge the flow of coolant. Turn the engine off. reconnect the hose. Remove the OUT hose and do the same thing... if flow out of the radiator is LESS (fluid level does not drop as quickly in the reservoir) then the radiator is restricted.
Dude, thank you for the vids. Came across your channel today.
Before I attempt to fix my car and spend money on replacement parts, I was wondering if there will be anything else I would have to replace. In one of your vids you mentioned something about a flange breaking when removing the thermostat, so I just want to make sure I have everything I need before beginning.
I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8T . My car has been overheating lately, and I notice there's a big puddle of coolant beneath after I drive it for about 10 to 15 minutes. A week ago, the coolant reservoir screw cap literally blew off while idling in a drive thru line and left a pretty heavy trail of coolant. Anyway, it appears the coolant is flowing back into the reservoir, but it appears there may be a leak somewhere, apparently from the right side of the vehicleI (left hand side if you're looking under the hood). I just don't know where it's coming from. My guess is there's a small leak and maybe the thermostat is stuck closed. Is there anything you think I can do to be sure, or what are your thoughts? Any other parts I may need to replace? Thanks.
You need to check your thermostat operation... the reservoir cap blew off because of too much pressure from too high a coolant temperature (there's a needle & warning light that usually warn drivers that the engine is running warm). Although you need to fix the leaks (coolant flange) first, to determine if there is anything else, I would replace the thermostat right away anyways (because of how hot the system got to blow that cap off). The good news is that you have coolant circulation (water pump is OK).
Watch this video for thermostat removal:
ruclips.net/video/HjL9P5cZw6g/видео.html
Watch this one for coolant flange: (New Beetle 1.8T, but similar)
ruclips.net/video/ZNTF-SODEG4/видео.html
Once you have the new flange in your hand, you can determine what needs to be removed to replace it / get access to it.
@@EXOVCDS I appreciate the advice, man. Is it possible the leak is coming from the oil pan think it's called? I still haven't been able to locate exactly where the leak is coming from. It's dripping from the bottom most part, the big metal casing though the oil isn't leaking. I'm not sure if it's the source of the leak or it just happens to be running off of it. The upper left hand side radiator hoses aren't leaking anything, the upper and bottom right hoses aren't either, I believe. If you want, I can try to uploading a pretty short video or two panning under the hood and underneath the car, though I'll be limited because I don't have any jacks or great video quality.
@@smolhatshapuru7552 could be the water pump... remove the splash guards under the engine (if there are any) and look for dried coolant behind the crankshaft pulley. A leaky pump will cause coolant to drop out from behind there and the coolant will run along the oil pan as well. Any repair shop should be able to find the leak quite quickly... they might charge you 1/2hr to check it, but in some cases that can be cheaper than the time lost trying to find it yourself. Fixing the leak is one thing, you may still need to determine what the cause for overheating is (if it still does it).
@@smolhatshapuru7552 Example of fixing a leak and then finding that there is another problem.
ruclips.net/video/DugRt6_mAYE/видео.html
Hey Thomas, my 20th 1.8t overheated one day and not the next...? There is flow to the reservoir, hoses get hot after some time, fans come on with a/c, blows cold, when the heater is on it blows hot, has the green top temp sensor, not sure what else to look for to diagnose it. Any input would be appreciated! Thank you!
Can't diagnose if there are no symptoms / if it's not acting up. Keep an eye on things. If it happens again, check for heat inside the car. If ok, then the water pump is ok. If it only overheats at idle, probably a fan / electrical issue. Green sensors can also go bad. Check the green fuse on top of the battery... for burnt contacts. You'll find the problem easier when it's acting up. Until then, just keep an eye on things.
Thomas EXOVCDS sorry, should have mentioned it only does it at idle... then cools down even when I only drive a couple feet. I.e from the drive thru speaker to the window. So not enough speed to get cold air in, but still goes all the way back to normal temperature (according to the gauge at least)
Watch this and tell me what happens when you do what I do in the video:
ruclips.net/video/Roh6RCs8IJk/видео.html
I'm having an issue of overheating on my 2000 vw jetta. 2.0L. I recently changed the cts and radiator and burped it 2 times to make sure no air was in the system. It's getting flow through the reservoir. After 2 weeks of a new radiator its overheating. The fans won't turn on only when the a/c is on which Cools the car off back to operating temp. Not sure if it's a thermostat issue or coolant fan switch!!
If the temperature comes down when the A/C is on, then the thermostat is ok. Check the condition of the fuse on top of the battery and the radiator thermal switch at the side of the radiator below the battery:
ruclips.net/video/Roh6RCs8IJk/видео.html
Thomas EXOVCDS checked out the fuse and replaced the thermal switch still nothing I'm stumped on this one. Fans still won't kick on unless I put on a/c
Do you have heat inside the car?
Do the fans come on when you manually bride low speed at the radiator fan switch wiring harness plug? If no, does one of the wires have battery power? Does the radiator get warm?
Hi Tom, I found that the metal portion of the coolant return line was clogged. I was able to clear the blockage but I still want to replace the line. Do you know where I can get the line? I cant find it online.
Year, model, engine? I assume 2.0L VW, but which engine code? AEG, AVH, BBW etc?
If you still do not get any heat inside the car... the water pump is probably bad.
@@EXOVCDS It is a 2000 vw golf 2.0 AEG. I now have circulation in the system. There is heat in the car but it takes awhile to get warm and doesn't blow strong. I assume the blend door needs to be replaced.
If you find foam bits in the vents, then yes... probably needs to have the doors repaired. Make sure that the temp control door actually moves fully cold / warm (can be inspected / verified from under the dash / heater box). If you have weak air flow, check your cabin air filter... it could be plugged. If you have more air flow when the heater controls "recirculation" button is ON, that a second sign that the cabin filter is plugged.
Great video Thomas. I have a GT TDI Golf 1.9 130bhp.The lower radiator hose never gets warm but the temp stays around 90° unless I floor it when it very quickly goes up to 130° then back down again. There's also heat coming out of the heater. I've changed the thermostat and there is flow of water. Could it be air in the system? I have VCDS'd it and no temp sensor fault codes.
Thanks. Dave
+Davemotion I'm still at work... will get back to you later tonight.
+Davemotion Could be air, but if you have coolant flow... it should bleed itself out. How old is the water pump? The impeller could be slipping at higher rpm / load.
+Thomas EXOVCDS Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure of the history but the slipping impeller might be a thing... I'll test it again today and see if the flow is slow. I could take the thermostat off and check impeller from there?
+Davemotion Yes... but that's not always conclusive. When cold / cooler, the impeller might feel like it is sitting tight.
+Thomas EXOVCDS Checked water flow again today. A lot of small bubbles almost foaming. Head Gasket?! There is more flow when revs are higher.
Hey man hope you see this, but i recently bought a 2000 Volkswagen Jetta and it’s leaking from the left front wheel. I really don’t know where it’s coming from , but I think it’s coming from the waterpump.
Water pump is on the right front wheel (driver point of view).
Follow the leak to the source... I can't see from where I am.
If it's dripping from the crank pulley... probably water pump.
Don't know what engine you have (can't see from where I am).
would you prefer to use plastic or metal impeller pumps on 1.8t ?
Either is fine these days... to be honest, I'm not too impressed by "some" of the metal impeller designs / manufacturers. The important part is keeping an eye on the cooling system... flush every 4 years (with new thermostat), making sure that the fans come on when they should etc. , that way plastic or metal pumps will last until the next service schedule.
Thomas EXOVCDS I'm leaning towards a metal impeller, best thing I can do I suppose is not to go for cheap. I've found one made by an oem brand - kolbenschmidt, that's best I've found for metal impeller as vw only do plastic
So what would it be if there’s flow and no heat on the inside? Having this problem right now with my 06 brm just replaced water pump but is overheating
Air lock, thermostat, plugged heater core. Check / eliminate one after the other. TDI should not overheat quickly, if yes, I would guess air lock. If the problem wasn't there before, that's another indication of air lock. If you have flow, then it should not overheat for quite a while, in which case thermostat. Heater core could be plugged or the heater control door could be stuck on cold air.
Also forgot to mention I did replace the thermostat as well just wondering if I messed something up. Cooling fans are also not coming on at 96 degrees, but they do come on as soon as it starts to overheat.
hie can someone help me my VW MK4 fans rans late what could be the problem?
How late? Year, model, engine?
Thank you! Tested my cooling fan fuse & it reads open on the ol' multimeter. Hoping that's the culprit!
Let me know who it goes / went.
Went great, no more overheating!
Thank you for the update!
Hi, on a 97 VW Golf 1.8L MK3, the hose was leaking from thermostat to water pump, and it has been replaced.
A flush was done with water and the Prestone flush cleaner.
Now the car overheats and the radiator fans ain't working.
Waterpump and Thermostat were replaced about 2 years ago.
Trying to figure out what is causing it to overheat?
Most likely and air pocket that is still in the engine. Remove the small hose from the top of the coolant reservoir and blow into it. If you can not blow into it, the hose or the nipple that it attaches to at the engine / coolant flange is plugged. Unplug the restriction and check that coolant is flowing OUT of the hose INTO the reservoir when the engine is running. You can also remove the top radiator hose from the radiator and tilt the hose UP, then, fill coolant into the hose until the level in the reservoir is at MAX. Reattach the coolant hose to the radiator. Let me know which method works for you.
@@EXOVCDS ok thanks, I will try it.
@@EXOVCDS replaced one hose and one metal pipe as it had holes and was leaking.
Washed out the reservoir, as it had gunk and metal pieces inside of it.
Running now on water and Prestone flush. On first day of water and Prestone flush, after getting back home, I popped the hood and noticed that the reservoir is making a sssssshhh noise and so is the hose from reservoir to cooling system manifold, and the hose is shaking. Is that normal for this noise and hose shaking during water and flush?
@@ms-cn8ww A hose that is shaking usually indicates that air or inconsistent flow of liquid is rushing through it. Running only on water can cause bubbles (boiling point of water is 100c). Even if your dash gauge does not show 100c, it could be that parts of the engine are that hot. Flush the cleaner out and fill with 50/50 coolant/water and check for similar noise.
Hi Tom. Happy new year to you. My 2002 vw bora,1.6SR auto transmission started acting strange. When I turn on the AC and drive for few kms, the water in the coolant tank starts boiling off and eventually dries up. The engine speed stays 1100rpm with the AC on at idle. But the temperature indicator still stays at 90°C. The fans re blowing fine. One other thing I noticed is sometimes, when the engine is idling, water doesn't return from the return line until you bleed the air in the system before water starts to return. Finally, at a speed of 120-140km/h and engine speed of between 3200-3600rpm, the alternator light starts beeping and blinking, regardless of whether the AC is on or not. Please what could be the cause of these malfunctions. Thanks for your continued support.
I'm not familiar with your engine (not available in North America)... the engine might have more than one thermostat, the water pump could be vacuum or electrically operated (to allow or restrict coolant flow). As for the alternator light, attach a voltmeter to the cigarette lighter socket and measure the voltage when the light is blinking... to check if the voltage is below 12.6V.
My engine is the same as golf/Jetta mk4 series with single overhead cam.its similar to the golf 1.8T and 2.0 models. My car has just one mechanically operated water pump via the timing belt and one single thermostat. At idle my car voltage is 13.52V. will check the voltage when the light starts blinking. Thanks again.
If you keep getting air in the cooling system, your engine may have a cylinder head gasket issue. Coolant "boiling off" from the reservoir (at normal operating temperatures of 90c) can only occur if there is too much pressure in the system. Radiator caps "vent" excessive pressure at around 18psi... during "normal" operation, the radiator cap NEVER needs to vent excessive pressure. You most likely have a bad head gasket.
@@EXOVCDS Can one have a blown head gasket with out noticeable oil leak?
@@davidmosaku Head gaskets can fail a number of ways... oil in to coolant, coolant into oil, coolant into cylinder, oil into cylinder, external coolant leak, external oil leak, compression into cooling system. Each example can be checked for / tested for.
Please help, i have a 2013 Jetta 2.0 base mode that is overheating. Fans weren’t turning on. Took it to the dealership, they said it was just the fans so charged me to replace them. That same day I’m driving it in the evening and the overheating sensor comes on within 5 minutes of driving the car, even on the highway it was still blinking for overheating. I checked and the fans would turn on. Also when I would start the car it was hesitate to start and then when it started it would run for a couple seconds and idle/sputter and turn off as if I had to give it gas to make sure it wouldn’t idle and die out.
I’m planing on taking it back ASAP so they can fix it... any tips? Thank you
Heat is flowing through vents.
You need to make sure that is it overheating... if it is, don't drive it (will create more damage).
Is the fluid level correct?
what is the rate for a water pump replacement?
pump alone is 2.7hrs according to mitchell labor guide. If other things need to be done, more time is added.
I have the same symptoms on my 1.9 but I just put brand new water pump and other timing components. I have other signs that my heater core is plugged and or leaking. But there is no flow from return line and it is not obstructed
Post a video so that I can see how & where you are checking for flow. If not enough coolant is in the system, it can not push coolant back into the reservoir... and not enough heat from the heater core.
@@EXOVCDS I lied, my return line was plugged so I remedied that and my heat works, at least intermittently . Pretty sure heater core is leaking and that is my last issue. Was really hoping I could avoid that. Thanks for the reply and keep up the good work!
@@johnnyceagles thank you for the update!
A lot of useful info. You'll be at 100,000 subs before you know it
Thanks... but I doubt it. Prank videos is where it's at. There are guys getting 1 million views per day. That's a good $1000+ per day of income! Guys that actually work for a living and do RUclips part time will never get there.
+Thomas EXOVCDS I think great things can be achieved by mixing things up a little bit and breaking from tradition. Original content is where it's at. If you just happen to fall off something of explode something in the process then you're onto a winner.
Look at MightyCarMods they get gazillions of views just for tinkering with cars. I'm sure there's an original project out there that can compete....
+Badgertronix Yeah... I'm sure the possibility is there, but as long as I have a day job, I don't think I can expand or change the format.
+Thomas EXOVCDS Work smarter not harder.... there must be a way to achieve that
+Badgertronix If in doubt... marry someone rich! LOL
I have a Audi B5 1.8T and it doesnt overheat on iddle or in city driving but when I go onto the highway and drive it it starts to overheat goes to 110 C as i slow down the temperature goes back down to 90C. Could it have air pockets because it was running fine untill i toped the coolant
Yes, could be an air pocket... monitor / feel for consistent heat inside the car. Inconsistent heat points towards possible air pocket or water pump impeller issue. Watch the following video about verifying thermostat operation & flow back into the coolant reservoir.
ruclips.net/video/ErLQbSnbOF4/видео.html
@@EXOVCDS
So after checking what you said in the video i noticed that im not geting a return of coolant, if i press the upper radiator hose i can clearly see that i get a coolant spray in the expansion tank, so that means that the return hose is clear. Since you said the coolant has 2 ways of going and picks the shortest, I think i might have a closed thermostat problem. Could this be related anyhow to a cloged hester because im not geting any heat inside the car? Thank you for your videos and your answers.
@@svenfirm2142 As mentioned in the video, there will be no flow from the return hose until the thermostat opens. If the thermostat does not open, the engine will overheat. You said the engine does not overheat standing still... so the thermostat is OK. If you don't have any heat inside the car, then you have an air pocket or the water pump is no good. If you hold the engine speed at 3000, do you hear coolant rushing through the heater inside the car? If yes, then you have air in the system.
@@EXOVCDS Thank you for your answers. I changed the thermostat and now I have heat in the car and the lower radiator hose gets warm, but the car still overheats after bleeding the system (8times). I sometimes get a bit of spray from the return hose. I will change the waterpump and the timingbelt. Thank you for all of your help and good luck.
@@svenfirm2142 OK.
So I got an 01 or 02 golf non turbo with aftermarket turbo.. over heating.. wasn't thermostat cause when I changed it the old one worked still but left the new one in.. but now its blowing hoses.. coolant distributor failed .
What else could be my issue
Overheats when standing still or also when moving / driving? A loose / bad water pump impeller can cause intermittent overheating. A bad head gasket can cause overheating. When the engine is cold, remove the reservoir cap. When you remove it, does it sound like pressure is escaping? Drive the car till warm.... till the upper radiator hose is warm and the hose feels hard from pressure in the system. Shut the engine off and let it cool down completely. If the hose does not get soft, that means combustion pressure was forced into the cooling system. The head gasket will need to be replaced.
@@EXOVCDS they both heat up , but top hose far hotter than lower , when I fill with fluid it doesn't start to over heat til I drive and when I first replaced thermostat , it didn't over heat til I drove about ten miles . Then bam....
After that anything I tried blew the hoses and the coolant distributor failed and broke ..
@@EXOVCDS can't check to see if anything sounds like its escaping now since the hoses are blown but when it was over heating... yea steam... when cold. I dont recall
Replace the hoses and then check the system again. Bad water pump or bad head gasket. Check for lack of heat inside the car and for pressure in the cooling system when the engine is cold (after cooling down from hot).
@@EXOVCDS which will tell me what if there is or isn't pressure after i turn it off?
Pressure means head gasket? Don't make sense cause wouldn't that pressure leak out?! Or the opposite?
Hi Thomas, I have a question. How do I find the correct setting of the timing belt ??? I mean, for example, using VAG COM. This is the 1.9 TDI PD 77kW BLS, 2008. Nice tips :)
+VW Golf Variant 1,9 Tdi 2008 When the timing belt is installed, the camshaft locking tool and the crankshaft locking tool are needed. After the belt has been installed and tensioned... no further timing adjustment is needed. Cam / crank timing can be checked in group 004 (I think)... "Injection Timing" is decided by the ECM and can not be adjusted without special software / flashing of the ECM. Here is a video on how to change a timing belt on a PD engine (passat shown) but same for your car: ruclips.net/video/8bZj2yZyYzg/видео.html
+Thomas EXOVCDS Thank you very much, today I changed the timing belt according to your video, so I used a locking device, I just wanted somehow to verify the settings are correct.
VW Golf Variant 1,9 Tdi 2008 Which video? I only have 1 (I think) PD video.
+Thomas EXOVCDS It was a BRM A5 TDI engine and the procedure was the same :) I think those videos with this engine have two.
VW Golf Variant 1,9 Tdi 2008 Yes, the BRM is the same. After the belt is tight, turn the engine 2 turns by hand and re-check the positions of the locking tools... if OK, put everything else back together and you can start the engine.
Hey Thomas, I have another issue, while driving yesterday upon arriving home, the engine overheated. It has not over heated before,df It rarely gets to 140. I completed the test on this video. The return line to the bowl would foam, dribble or no flow coolant at all. I removed the bottom hose that connects to the thermostat, started the engine and there was no flow.. I reconnected the hoses, opened the radiator cap and no movement, just foam and once and a while bubble over. Water pump?
Sounds like water pump issue.... year, make, model, engine?
Do you have heat inside the car? No heat can point to bad water pump.
The engine 1.9l ALH. Came out of a 2002 new beetle. I put in a 1992 Isuzu pickup. No heat.
Water pump... most likely.
Sorry... I didn't pay attention to your user name... the Isuzu pickup bit I do remember. =)
Where is best place to buy a timing belt kits with water pump?
We deal with local parts suppliers... I don't know what suppliers you have in your area. There are many online suppliers... dealing with suppliers that specialize in VW / Audi / European will result in good quality part selection.
my polo vivo 2012 1.6 is also showing that it is over heating, but i tested water pump its working, tested thermometer, fans are coming on at intervals, when i increase speed the temp gauge shows heat increases, as soon as i reduce speed it comes to normal 90 degrees. Is this the temp sensor that is faulty.
please advice.
We don't have your car & engine in Canada, so I don't know if there is one temperature sensor or more. I would use a scan tool to compare temperature signals that the ECM (engine computer) and the Instrument Cluster receive. If they are showing the same temperature, then I would believe the gauge... I found some service info. It looks like this engine has 2 thermostats. One opens between 87 to 102c and the other 103 to 120c. It could be that the cooler one is not opening.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks a lot, i will do a scan today.
the thing that keeps my mind boggling is that when i am driving in town with 60km/h there is no sign of overheating, as soon i am on the freeway hitting between 120 and 140km/h for about 20min. then the heat gauge start rising, now as soon as i reduce speed the gauge immediately also starts normalizing. but yes, i will do a scan today. just to see what readings i am getting.
Regadrs
@@heinoplaatjies5334 Because there are 2 thermostats, it could very well be that the engine (at lower speeds) has no issues... until consistent higher speeds require more cooling. Again, I'm not sure how the system works since we don't have that engine here. But it's too much of a coincidence that your higher engine temperature falls into the operating range of the second thermostat.
@@EXOVCDS thanks... Will talk later after I run the test
I'm having trouble, overheating on a 1.8t awm. new thermostat, temp sensor, water pump, rad, and burped. Return home is clear, still over temp. Not too high, but I'm showing the next line over the center on the temp gage.
I'm not sure what else to do, any advise?
@@fendersrage Confirm that the temperature gauge is actually accurate. Compare ECM coolant temperature with Instrument Cluster temperature via ECM & Cluster control modules.
Using a scan tool, activate instrument cluster output tests... this will "swing" the needles left/right and make them stop in the middle. If there is a problem with the needle / driver, then the temp needle will not match the movement of the other needles.
One or two electric fans?
Year & model of car?
This is eye opening for me.
I have been able to isolate the water pump (it's working)
The challenge for me is that the fan activates just about the time the coolant in reservoir get about 85 risen. And then the coolant spills a little....and the cycle continues as so over and over again. No hose nor radiator leaks found
Not sure where this problem is really. Any ideas for me?
I started the engine from 0° coolant levels was fine till about 35th minute of idling at 800 RPM...
Coolant spills with reservoir cap on?
@@EXOVCDS Yes Boss the reservoir cap is on and tight. The Coolant spill via the pressure release.
I also didn't mention that I replaced the seal where the coolant pipe connects to the thermostat housing recently.
Thanks for taking time to respond. Grateful.
I didn't mention that
And again from the pattern noticed yesterday, I had to open the thermostat housing and saw that the 87 Degrees was stuck open. No spring found..... Am going to replace the set today once am able to get it and hope it solves the problem.
I have used the car for 1 year without any issues and no mech had touched it. Simply means that the old user's mech had tampered with it #Sad
Your videos have been of great help. Will update every one once am done
Please help i hav a vw polo blm engine the car blow water out the reservoir bt it does not over heat no bubbles in the reservoir,i changed thermostat and reservoir cap bt nothing change what could be the coz
At what temperature is the water blowing out? Post a video on your channel so that I can see & hear the engine and how it is blowing out.
This only happens while am drivin am able to see splash of water where reservoir is located,
At what temperature is the water blowing out? Post a video on your channel so that I can see & hear the engine.
I dont know coz it only does that while am drivin,when i start it and allow it to idle i does not show any problem,and it does not over heat the temperature gauge stays at 90degres ,only wen i travel long distance nd wen i open the bonnet i can see water comin out bt the temperature do not change
Post a video on your channel so that I can see & hear the engine.
Working with a MK4 Jetta, same engine as in this video. I flushed the heater core and nothing but clean water came out. There's still no heat coming out of the vents, what else should I look for?
Are there any pieces of foam coming out of the vents? Either the temperature blend door is not moving correctly, the foam has come off of the blend door... or your water pump is not pumping (but then you would have overheating issues as well).
@@EXOVCDS
The water pump is new, I'm not sure about the blend door; how do I check? The engine does not overheat at all, perfect in the middle.
@@x-man4702 Heater dials or climatronic?
@@EXOVCDS Dials.
Look under the dash from the passenger side... look at the bottom of the heater box assembly while you are moving the cold/hot knob. You should see a lever moving... If the lever is not moving or the lever is not connected, the issue is with the heater control. Here's a video of what to look for:
ruclips.net/video/6U9ZdkAjdhQ/видео.html
hello frend,i drive 1.9 tdi asz 131ps,it's overheating on long run,like,highway drive at 120-140kmh all fine,but uphill on highway when accelerate little, temp start increase until release throttle,thermostat is ok,water pump ok,no oil in coolant, but coolant is lost about half of liter per 200km,sometime's more if drive faster,no visible leaks,no bubles at coolant tank,no signs of failed HG..whats wrong?
racing0eagle Coolant has to go somewhere... if not leaking external, then internal. Could be head gasket or egr cooler.
Thomas EXOVCDS
Thank's for fast reply,how to check internal coolant loss? some tip? thanks again
racing0eagle Might not be easy to determine if there is no rough running or smoking. Removing & pressure testing the EGR cooler might be a good first step. If you see signs of coolant inside the cooler exhaust passages (clean shiny passages), then start with that. Looking inside the engine is not easy on a tdi... when everything else has been eliminated, it's time to pull the head.
Thomas EXOVCDS
my tdi asz don't have egr cooler,strange,sometimes i have no loss of coolant i think,today coolant drop from half a tank to bottom (~0.8l) in 1.5km -.-
Hey Thomas, I have a 1.8t engine. I my big fan(driver side) won't turn on I just replaced the relay under the battery tray and the big fan doesn't turn on still. I unplugged it and used a paper clip to check the speeds and only my small fan works. Oh it only overheats when I'm at idle for about 2min or so. Please help thanks a million... And your videos are awesome
The large fan is bad (low speed). Engine should not overheat even if only the small fan is working... you might have 2 issues. Ignition Key ON (engine off), press the AC button inside the car and turn the blower fan on... both radiator fans should spin at low speed. If the large fan is not spinning, disconnect the radiator fan harness plug (of the large fan) and check that one of the 2 red wires has power at the harness plug. If yes, replace the fan, if no, check the wiring.
Awesome thanks Thomas. I'll check it today.
I have a 2005 VW Golf GLS. Car was having battery issues. So I replaced the fuse box on top of the battery and ran new wire from the alternator. Today my car began to over heat and I also noticed no heat inside the car. I noticed the both fans don’t turn on. I removed the fuse inside the car and the fan turned on. I replaced the relay and I still have no heat and still overheating. Any ideas?
Your water pump is bad.
Did you watch the video... do the checks?
@@EXOVCDS I did watch the video. I have to see if coolant flows back to the reservoir but wouldn’t the fans still kick on?
@@delriomtb9892 the fans are activated by the fan switch in the radiator. If the radiator doesn't get hot then the switch doesn't get hot and it can't turn the fans on. The first check of the fans in the video is just verifying that the fans & fuse are ok. If you have ac and the fans don't come on, then you have a fuse, wiring, fan motor or ac problem. The fact that you have no heat inside the car, tells me that your water pump is no good.
Where you located
BC Canada.
Thomas great vid! You are one of my last hopes. I have a 2009 VW Tiguan S 2.0 TSI. For the life of me I can't find where to drain the coolant/radiator on this car. It has what seems like two upper hoses but no lower hose to drain from. I have searched the entire radiator and there is no visible petcock or plug anywhere. Any idea how I drain all of the coolant out of this vehicle? Also I just had the water pump and thermostat replaced but now the fans are going crazy (not overheating) but in the five years I have driven this car the fans have never sounded like this until after I had the repairs done. They are going off like a jet taking off even going down the highway and I thought maybe the coolant was the problem as it looks like dirty dishwater and when I tested it is about 20 degrees lower than it should be. Any help would be awesome. I can't find anything at all online on how to drain this coolant. Have a good one.
Yeah Boiii A lot of models don't have a direct radiator drain. the lower hose is not sitting at the base of the radiator... you are correct. When I can't drain, I flush with water. When filling the system, you have to take the remaining water into consideration. Add a richer mixture of coolant that will mix with the water in the system... and hope that it will end up being somewhere around 50/50 at the end. Scan for fault codes. Usually when the ecm doesn't have a temperature of the cooling system, it will turn the fans on full blast to protect the engine in case of an overheating situation.
Thank you very much for the quick response! I will try the flush process. I know the last time I checked I did have a P2403 code with no check light which the scan tool I had just said EVAP system. I need a more detailed scan tool :) Do you think there could be a problem with the EGR or ECT that could be causing the computer to think it is too hot or is hot and fans to go crazy? Thanks again. Hope you have a good one.
I don't think that this engine has an EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)... could be a temperature sensor issue or the fan module could be stuck on high, or the AC could have too much pressure, or the fan module lost communication with the ECM. Things need to be checked, I can only guess from here.
You are awesome! Thanks for the reply. I have been working on cars for 30+ years and this is my first VW so forgive me. I am used to older Honda/Toyota :) I don't have a repair manual at all and am looking to see if I can find one. Any suggestions on where to find one (would like to get the actual service manual online)? I found emanualsonline.com but the sight looks a little jenky :) I just checked the coolant hoses after I got home from a long ride and the passenger side(the lowest hose) was pretty cool to the touch but the drivers side was hot. The fans don't always go crazy fyi but I just know something isn't right because as I said I never even heard them prior to this repair at all but now they go on all the time. The people that replaced the water pump said they were going to replace the thermostat at the same time but I kind of wonder about that since I had to take it back because they tore the gasket on the pump and it was leaking so they had to redo it. Should have done it myself but it looked like quite a pain :) Anyway I will try the flush and a CTS (so cheap) and see what that does. Maybe I will just go through everything. :) Thanks a ton for the suggestions! You can tell me to shut up anytime! You are great and I have definitely subbed and have watched quite a few of your vids already and they are very good. Take care man!
Thermostat is part of the water pump, so they probably changed it... maybe the temperature sensor was not plugged in correctly? The lower hose can be cool to the touch after driving (due to air flow that is cooling the radiator. Let the engine idle and monitor the dash gauge / needle and the temperature of the lower hose. When the lower hose gets close to equal temperature as the upper, the fans should start to cycle on / off. If the fans are on when the lower hose is still cold, or they come on when the engine is cold, check your AC / defrost settings (fans will run when AC or defrost is on).
My car was over heating and when I turned on the heater I got no heat. I also disconnect the line to rresivor and did get a stream when car was on stream increased when I had someone push the gas somehow my car is over heating any tip appreciate
Stephanie Dominguez Year, model, engine? No heat inside the car could be due to a bad water pump. Return flow into the reservoir bottle should be strong at higher rpm. If not... bad pump.
Does the lower radiator hose get hot? If yes, not a water pump issue. If you trigger the radiator fans manually... does it still overheat?
Thomas EXOVCDS 2003 Volkswagen jetta and yes the hose by the fans towards the bottom does get hot. Fans turn on full speed with a.c. on and when car is overheating fans turn on too
My aunt supposedly bought a new water pump she said she paid around 250 for part and labor does that sound about right?
Stephanie Dominguez Overheating as in the temperature needle moves to the right or the red temperatire light is blinking (or both)?
No heat inside the car can be due to air trapped in the cooling system, a bad water pump or a plugged heater core inside the car.
When did this start?
250 for part and installation is cheap. Was that done already?
Thanks
Thank you for watching!
Y the no like what's not to like about ur vids u get down and don't play no games I guess they want you to sing and dance or crack a joke but keeps up the good work OG
Some people need hand holding! LOL
Thank you for watching!
Good Video!!! I heard a cat in the background...
+Yanier Olivera I will have to listen for it. Haha
Hi Thomas, trust you are keeping safe. I have a very funny experience on my VW Bora AEH engine( same as golf MK4). I keep getting the water in the expansion tank boiling off even when the temperature indicator stays at 90•C. So I decided to do a detailed troubleshooting. I removed the return line on the expansion tank so see if water returns, that was just fine. I took out the thermostat and tested it boiling water, and the thermostat opens as it should but closes slowly when you take it out of the boiling water. So I plugged in my VCDS to monitor the coolant temperature, on measuringblock 005, at 97•C, the fans come on but only blows for like 10 secs when the temperature drops to 95•C, the fans goes off again and it continues that way. But when I take the car for driving, I still get the water boiling off from the expansion tank, over heating the system.i have changed the thermal switch and the relay under the battery tray but the problem is still there. But when I wire the fans at low speed directly to the battery for a continuous fan operation, the overheating/boil-off at the tank stops. But this method is not sustainable due to the fact that even when the car is off, the fans run and u have to open the hood to disconnect them. Is the high speed fans supposed to come on without refrigerant in the AC system when the AC button is switched on? Pls what do you think I should do. Thanks.
Can you post / upload a video of what you mean by "boiling off" at the expansion tank?
If you are talking about fluid dripping from the "vent", remove the reservoir cap and make sure that the o-ring is sitting correctly in the cap. If the o-ring is in place, then you need to check of excessive pressure that is causing the cap to vent. A bad head gasket can cause excessive pressure without coolant coming out the tailpipe or oil in the cooling system.
@@EXOVCDS, boiling off I mean the coolant starts to boil rapidly in the tank, almost forcing the cover to open up. When you shut the engine off, you still hear and see the coolant boiling. Afterwards, the entire tank becomes empty.
@@pauliroha5506 What coolant mixture are you using? Only water?
@@EXOVCDS vw g12 coolant
@@pauliroha5506 What ratio? 50/50? Shouldn't be boiling at 97c. I'd still check for excessive pressure.
I have heat but no flow what does that mean?
Year, make, model, engine? If it overheats while at idle & while driving at steady speed, then the thermostat is bad. If it only overheats at idle, then there is a fan / electrical issue.
me gusto el video
gracias y gracias por mirar!