Volkswagen 2.0L Timing belt and water pump! MK2, MK3, MK4 Jetta/Golf
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- Опубликовано: 19 апр 2019
- GT shine products: gtshine.com/products/gt-twist...
Coupon Code: HELPINGHAND
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--------------- This video applies to most all ranges of volkswagen jetta and golfs from the late 80's on through about 2005 with the mk4 ending.
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Made this for myself. Thought it would be handy to have the timestamps clickable. Feel free to copy paste it into the description and add anything i may have forgotten. This video was super helpful thank you so much.
TOOLS NEEDED
[ ] Clean shallow tub to catch/hold coolant
[ ] Metric socket set (10mm-19mm)
[ ] Long Socket wrench entention
[ ] 15mm wrench or adjustable
[ ] 2 T15 heads and a long flathead screwdriver for jerry rigged tensioner tool
[ ] 19mm 12point socket
[ ] 6mm allen head
[ ] Impact driver to socket adapter
[ ] Ft/lb torque wrench
[ ] In/lb torque wrench
TAKE 'ER APART
[ ] Remove splash gaurds and Drain coolant
[ ] 5:30 Remove serpentine belt
[ ] 6:40 Remove serpentine belt tensioner
[ ] 8:10 Remove upper timing belt cover
[ ] 9:20 Remove crank pulley (harmonic balancer)
[ ] 12:40 (15:20)* Zero out the timing belt
[ ] (13:20)* 16:00 Check secondary mark on fly wheel
[ ] (19:00) Use a jack and a wood block to support engine
[ ] 20:10 Loosen coolant reservoir for easy access to engine mount bolts.
[ ] 20:40 Loosen power steering reservoir
[ ] (19:20) 21:40 Remove engine mount bolts
[ ] 23:20 Lower the engine and remove the mount
[ ] 24:15 Remove the top bolt for the mount bracket
[ ] 25:20 Remove the other bottom 2 bolts for the mount bracket
[ ] 26:50 Remove timing belt cover
[ ] 27:30 loosen the timing belt tensioner
[ ] 31:00 remove the timing belt and tensioner
[ ] (32:00) 32:30 loosen 3 water pump bolts
[ ] 33:00 slowly drain remaining coolant. Don't remove the water pump until the drainage stops.
[ ] 33:15 remove the bolt for the bracket above the water pump and move it out of the way
[ ] 34:10 Remove water pump.
PUT 'ER BACK TOGETHER
[ ] 34:50 clean the area where the new pump will go scrape off old gasket that may have stuck.
[ ] 35:30 Install new water pump. ***IMPORTANT*** Tighten all bolts evenly until the pump sits in place EVEN THOUGH YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE TOP BOLT IN THE NEXT STEP
[ ] 35:55 Remove top water pump bolt and re-install bracket above water pump.
[ ] 36:20 tighten all three water pump bolts to proper torque
[ ] 36:50 wipe off coolant on the bottom of the crank pulley
[ ] 37:20 install new timing belt tensioner
[ ] 37:50 install new timing belt
[ ] 38:30 tighten new timing belt tensioner
[ ] Double check the zero mark on the fly wheel and make sure its still lined up with the timing belt's zero mark
[ ] 40:30 spin the engine a few rotations and triple check zero marks
[ ] 42:20 install lower timing belt cover
[ ] 43:30 put bracket back in place and put the top left bolt in place before lowering the engine. Do not tighten
[ ] 44:30 start one bolt by hand to hold the bracket in place before lowering engine
[ ] 45:00 lower the engine and install the lower most bolt followed by the rest. Tighten them all.
[ ] 46:25 put the engine mount back in place whole the engine is still low
[ ] 47:20 start engine mount bolts by hand
[ ] 47:50 tighten bolts with impact, then socket wrench
[ ] 48:30 jack up the engine and replace the 2 bolts (also cover the flywheel mark with cap)
[ ] 50:20 release jack
[ ] 50:40 re-install power steering bolt
[ ] 51:00 re-install coolant reservoir
[ ] 51:40 re-install harmonic balancer
[ ] 53:35 re-install serpentine belt tensioner
[ ] 54:25 re-install serpentine belt
[ ] Replace undersheild splash gaurds.
[ ] 57:00 Refill coolant
* timestamps in parentheses only show the location of engine and cooling componets in order to complete a task. All other timestamps demonstrate how to complete said task.
You are doing gods work out here sir. Thank you!
Man i watch the whole video i did this on my notes and now i see this comment omfg ima be reading comments first the next time
Came to the comments section looking for exactly this. Thank you!
From the bottom of my heart, thank you for the moment by moment walk through and talk through. Thank you for taking your time when nobody else would to be so detailed. I have no single mentor for autos, and you just taught me priceless knowledge. Thank you so much for the details. Subscribed, and you got a friend in me.
Thanks! Appreciate you watching the video and the kind words. Please reach out if you need help with anything.
Well said thank you
Here an advice from a german mechanic: if you buy a new waterpump ( should be changed everytime TOGETHER with a new timingbelt !!! ) take one with METAL-pumpwheel NOT with a plastic one !!!. It happens often, that the plastic one loosen itself from the shaft while running a while.
That's what happened to me, it had a plastic one and it broke in half!
No words can describe this amount of clarity , Man thank you a lot for your time and effort on this video.
Thanks. You’re very welcome.
I am very impressed! you are very very good at these auto repair videos. I have not seen anyone do any better at describing exactly what you are doing and how clear and understandable your instructions are. your tempo is just about perfect as well! Very well done and made me a subscriber and a fan! Please keep the videos coming and thank you for your teaching. you are a born natural at this and i hope it provides for you very well!
This is the most informative/professional video I e watch for my 2000 VW Jetta. Thank you.
Man. Thank you much for this video. Very informative. Definitely helped me with this little project. Thanks.
The best video for helping with a project! Thank you so much!
Happy New Year 2022! Thanks for the great video, the whole exercise was a success thanks to your instructions. I did manage to discover a couple of things which helped me which I thought I'd mention in case it helps others too. To line up the tension indicator lugs on the tensioner I bought a dentists mirror from the dollar store so I could see under the tensioner and line them up perfectly before tightening. The other thing I discovered was to remove the bracket at 25:30 out the back of the engine and onto the floor instead of removing it from the front of the engine, out through the hoses and hood. There's a lot more room and way less fighting. It almost just fell out once I got the angle right. I didn't take the front wheel off either, I just turned it full-lock to the right but still had to jack the vehicle up by the chassis to work on it. In addition to the main jack, I used a 2 by 4 on top of a small scissor-jack sitting on a rhino ramp to raise/lower the engine. I put the timing belt over the water pump last. This way if the others want to move, they will move together - got it first go with no problems.
Thank you so much! This video was extremely helpful! My fiance and I just started a business so while he was doing a pain in the a** fuel pump job, I was able to work on the jetta without him having to walk me through it.
Nice work!
This is a VERY good video. I really appreciate all the work you put into this! Huge help
Man I really appreciate the video. It help me out alot I dont know how I would have did it without you! Step by step detail to detail you nailed it. Thank you very much! Keep up the great work.
You’re very welcome. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for such an informative video, used it all the way and great results
Thankyou for your knowledgeable information and the perfection on doing this job I was looking the entire video and I really appreciated 🙏 💯
Wow this is an amazing resource! Thank you for taking the time and extra effort to make this detailed tutorial
Great video thank you for the help! I just wanted to chime in and say if you have the automatic version of this car your second timing mark is not on the flywheel nor is there any way to check it your second mark is on the back ring of your harmonic balancer/crank pulley and the top half of the bottom timing cover you have to look at it from the top down and both marks should be at the top it's kind of hard to see but I hope this helps all you automatic guys out there dm me if you have any questions I can send pictures
There is one on the crank pulley, you have to look down into the engine bay an it’s on the inside of the pull there is two notches , the automatics have a rectangle window with a Lollie pop looking mark that goes to the bottom of the window👍🏼
Where is this rectangle? And lollipop looking image? Where are these notches? I NEED HELP LOL
@@aidanlarge4289 if you look under the ignition coil, under the wire harness plug for the ignition coil pack, there will be a rectangle window cut out that you can see through, there may be rust that could be covering the (lollipop) timing mark ( it’s a sideways looking circle with a line) , you’ll have to get a wire brush in there to clean it. This is for an automatic trans by the way. For the one on the crank pulley there is a notch on the lower timing belt cover that will correspond with the inner edge (closest to the motor) of the crank pulley timing notch. Hope this helps sorry I’m a few days late reading this
I had the same issue, 2 6mm Allen bolts came out easy and 2 stripped from previous owner. I used a spiral/cone easy out and a crescent wrench.. worked like a charm. just a tip
Incredibly helpful video! Thank you so much!!!
This is the most informative/professional video I e watch for my mk4!
And the fact you sound like data from the new Star Trek makes this video more awesome
Lmao! That’s great. Thanks.
Thank you successfully replaced my timing belt.
Thank you so much for this video,I am going to do my following step by step this exelent vidio;thank you very much again.
Thank u for the help now my car is driving
Awesome job bro
Very well done video. Thanks...
Thanks for this important video
Fantastic video
I am from Canada , Sept 21 / 22 I am a mechanic but I have never worked on a VW , but I bought one & decided to change water pump , idler & belt , thank you very much for the video , let me know where you are from if you want to .
You mention the old water pump a piglet to get out? After removing 3 bolts thought would 'ave to undo engine mount as well BUT NOT THE CASE! Inserted a flat-blade screwdriver along a top edge and, after *twisting* with pliers, pump popped loose! Thx for VDO!
Yea sometimes the rubber seal around it is difficult to dislodge at times.
So I live in michigan and when I was taking the crank pulley off, the part where the pulley sits on the lower timing belt gear were rusted together and they both came off as one piece. I didn’t time it like you did in the video because I thought I was just taking the pulley off but now I can’t get the lower timing belt gear back on because of the tensioner. So I thought if I left it alone and didn’t rotate the bottom end at all, I could just time it correctly after I installed the new timing belt and water pump. I know it’s a unique situation, but I’m wondering if it’s ok to time it after the new belt is on if I don’t move anything. I am also having a very hard time getting the new belt and tensioner to go all the way around all the gears. I’m pretty sure the tensioner is as loose as it will go but it is still having a very hard time going onto the gears. I’m wondering if anyone else has had this happen to them and what I can do to fix it. Sorry about the long comment, just a lot of questions. Thanks anyone for any information!
thanks for the Video.
Great video ! Is it normal for timing belt being outside the sprocket ? (Off center)
Great video, thank you for uploading! I am replacing the timing belt on my 2.0 this weekend. I have the AWD version, will i be able to move the engine up and down just as much as the FWD version?
Thanks.
Should be able to.
Good idea!
Awesome video on account of completeness, details and cautions mentioned. I am considering taking completing this on my 2001 Mk4 2.0 ltr for the fun and savings aspects. Local shop asked for $1200 including parts but added on cam and crankshaft seal as replacements as well. At a 175K miles, I have not yet had problems with the seals, though I am considering the shops offer just on account of the seals. My question … is it worth the preventive maintenance aspect and replace these seals given that the timing belt is already being replaced? Although I have the Bentley manual, I don’t know much about the seals.
I would replace the seals. You are there and it will prevent you from having to pull everything back apart to do the seals if they leak. Bentley manuals are fantastic to have.
Great video! Is there any check up on the tensioner? Followed your directions and got my TB, WP, tensioner, idle pulley, and serp belt done this weekend, started it up and it sounded great! But I wanna make sure that tensioner stays in line at the cross hairs, do I check it after 100 miles or something?
Once you tighten it, you can check it if you want but it should stay in place.
i just did everything in this video and everything sounded good afterwards but after getting gas it ran for a sec then died & would crank but not start.
I agree with many of the comments below, this is a great instructive video. Detailed, well paced and thorough. I just purchased a 2007 Golf (Mk V) with 164,000 km with what appears to be the same engine but....is it? If not do you know what might be different from the engine/vehicle in the video above? Thanks!
The engine wouldn’t be the same. You would need to reference a video for your generation Golf.
Hi. At 26.26 you say to jack up engine considerably to remove the bracket. But how high realistically before you start snapping/breaking other parts ?
You need to raise it up enough to get the bracket out. I didn’t break anything else.
tourner le moteur au sens contraîre bah bravo le mécano du dimanche
good video!! thank you so much for uploading. is that Auto transmission?
Automatic yes.
what color are the two hose in color from the pressure regulator to the line in the corner.
Color? Those hose are both black.
this video has been more than helpful for me. What should i do in the event that i can't get flywheel marks to line up or show?
There may be a chance that the clutch was replaced along with the flywheel. If so, the aftermarket flywheel may not have the timing mark on it.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thanks again for the great information. I found the timing mark on the flywheel, I didn't rotate the engine enough to see it.
Brother I want to do the job to Swuap my engine on my 2002 Vw golf
How long should it take to replace?I was told it was an all day process of five hours. It's a one man shop. But you did your with explaining in less than two hours. VW Mann Brian been working in VW for over 25 years in Minneapolis quoted $700 not including tax to change out both water pump and timing belt with labor. Does that sound about right?
Yep that sounds about right. It took me about 4 hours. Of course I cut out all the spinning wrenches stuff. That’s boring. $700 is a fair price. I charge $350 labor minimum for this timing belt. Plus the cost of parts which are about $150-200
What would the case be if you have an automatic transmission and you don't have that plug flywheel peephole? doing mine over the weekend and trying to find this out
There will be a mark on the camshaft sprocket with O.T. on it that will line up with an arrow on the upper timing cover (remove the small plastic upper cover that’s hiding the cam gear and you will see the upper timing cover mark)
Then if the crankshaft is in the correct spot there will also be a mark on the crank pulley that will line up with a small arrow on the lower timing cover. If you don’t have them both lined up then rotate the crankshaft 180* and they both should line up.
Remember BOTH cam and crank shaft marks need to line up.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thank you very much I really appreciate it! Will be doing it tomorrow :)
Good luck!
I do have one thing to add, at least on my car YOU CANNOT turn the tensioner left or right, ONLY counter clockwise, that really confused me since he tightened it clockwise, but my tensioner would not tighten that way, I tried different methods for hours until I just turned it counter clockwise and boom it worked, hopefully this helps somebody get rid of the headache I had when trying to do this, 3 hours just to turn it counterclockwise. Although everything else in the video was excellent.
What brand of water pump did you buy I’m getting ready to replace mine but idk what brand I should get and I just don’t wanna cheap out.
I believe I used a Meyle water pump from pelicanparts.com
I'm working on a 2000 jetta 2.0 automatic is it the same with the flywheel Mark's?
No, use the camshaft and the crank marks
самое информативное видео спасибо!
Sorry I don’t know what this means.
Does the automatic trans have the rubber hole plug for the flywheel?
It does not
Hi, Thanks for the video. One question though, shouldn't the engine be turned clockwise, not counterclockwise as you say in the video? Turning the crank clockwise (while looking at the crank) puts any slack in the timing belt onto the tensioner side. Or am I not understanding something? Thanks
This is exactly what I was wondering and came to the comments to see if there was answers or questions.. the creator has not answered you back. ( if he wants more followers or subscribers he should be replying to these type of questions..
Yeah always clockwise. You can back it off a LITTLE counter clockwise but if you doing full rotations ways go clockwise
Hey boss really appreciate the detailed video, I'm purchasing a 2.0 wagon with the AT. Is there an access hole on that guy too or is that a whole different process? Its only got 97,000 mi on it, and the belt looked good but for peace of mind and practice I'd like to do this service. Thanks!
aba automatic timing marks
www.vwvortex.com/threads/crankshaft-timing-marks-auto-trans-2-0.8123746/
Scroll down to post #2
Thank you!
At 18:07 you mention matching these notches. Why? Forgive my ignorance i just dont see why you are required to adjust that if its just a belt?? I have to change a water pump on my vw and im worried about messing up the heads.
You make sure the engine is at TDC for ease of belt installation. Technically you could get away with marking the belt in various places and NOT line up the timing marks. Then transfer the marks on the old belt to the new belt and put it back together. However this leaves a great risk to possibly have your timing be off.
I highly recommend lining up the factory timing marks as shown in the video and then replace the timing belt and water pump since you will have to take off the belt anyway.
Great video, My son did this on a 2003 Jetta 2.0. Everything went well however he ended up with 2 left over hex flange bolts. They are about an inch long and they’re marked as Fibam 8.8 on the head. Any idea where they go? He hasn’t started the car yet because he’s concerned. Next step is to take it all apart.
Not sure. Might be motor mount bolts or the motor mount bracket bolts.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair your experience elevates you to a genius, and a kind one at that! They were the motor mount bracket bolts! My son had dropped the bracket therefore he didn’t realize that that’s where the hex bolts went. We found the black bracket lodged in the engine compartment. Car started and ran like a charm after following your video!
Glad you got it sorted. Good on you two.
Hey do you have a link as to where to purchase the timing belt kit ? I have an ‘02 golf 2.0L engine, don’t have any knowledge with cars. Which is why I’m afraid to purchase one online cause I might buy the wrong one. Anyways thanks for taking the time to read this, very awesome and very informative video brother ! Much Love !
Any local parts store can set you up with the right parts. Otherwise check Amazon for kits as well.
How many ft/lb should the engine/chassis bracket bolts be?
Niko Petering
1. engine mount to body should be 30ft lb. (plus 90 degree turn)
2. Mount bracket to body 18 ft. Lbs.
3. Mount to engine bracket bolt 74 ft. Lbs.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair 4. Mount bracket to engine bolts: 33 ft-lbs.
( ͡° ͜ ͡°)
I have a question. I have a 2001 be golf gls . Standard 5 speed . Has 161,000+ miles on it. It's not throwing any codes but has a really puffy rough idle that shakes the car back n forth and the engine as well. Sounds like a loud belt noise coming from the timing belt. It has a sticker in the engine bay that says timing belt was installed at around 136,000. My question is since it's interference engine can the valves be bent and still be running and idling rough. Still drives but seems to not be able to get over 65mph. I have replaced spark plugs and wires and also the MAF sensor. I'm thinking maybe the timing belt may have been installed wrong or when it had broke maybe the valves bent. Also thinking maybe the throttle body needs to be reprogrammed ? No vac leaks detected and the exhaust comes out in puffs as I mentioned before. I don't know what to do anymore besides maybe take a huge loss and sell it as a mechanics special. Can the injectors or fuel filter be bad . I wish I could email someone a video of it's idle so u could hear how it sounds. Never heard a car idle like this before. I imagine if the valves were bent it wouldn't run or even stay idling ?
I would replace the crank sensor. If you have access to a scanner than can read pending codes, see if crank sensor is showing.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair there is no codes no check engine light. Has to be something minor but even vacuum leaks will trigger the sensors. I'd really hate to have to tear it down and see if maybe it just might be a carbon buildup in the valves kinda deal. Humble mechanic says these cars usually are taken in at around 80,000 miles for a complete carbon cleaning . Maybe the carbon buildup is so bad at 161,000 miles that it's not letting the valves close all the way ? But i imagine the exhaust would have some kind os smell. Before I had installed new wires and plugs and MAF sensor it was putting too much fuel into 3 n 4 cylinders . I think that was caused by the maf sensor because I had cleaned it and didn't let it dry properly and it fried the sensor. There went $200 on a new one from VW . Plugs and wires are also from VW.plugs are NGK specific to this car also. I've heard that the only way to get it running right may be to tear it down and clean the carbon out . Pull the head off and everything.or it may need to be hooked to the vag-com to reprogram the throttle body. Also I think maybe the gears in the throttle body may have been destroyed from prior owner incorrectly cleaning the throttle plate and inside the throttle body by not using the gas pedal to open the throttle plate and using their fingers ? If the throttle body wasn't $500 I'd buy one and slap it on and see . But I hear the only way to have the right setup to idle and run correct it needs to be programmed by the vag-com ? But all these things even dirty injectors would trip a sensor I was going to pull the timing cover lower n upper to make sure the timing belt was properly installed and tensioner was installed correctly but that seems like a lot of work . I wish someone would tell me if the way it idles could be because of an incorrectly installed timing belt is the answer from hearing it idle. Never ever have I heard a car idle this bad. It won't go over 65mph either.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair also I suppose I could disconnect the cam shaft position sensor and start it up and see if it throws a light ? Wouldn't that be an easier way to see if it is communicating with the sensor ? I don't think these cars have a crank sensor only can position sensors. But I imagine it is a possibility that it's.just not communicating and not registering with the computer either. Can I unhook the sensor and try to start it safely ? I imagine if the sensor is good it will throw the light or not start at all which would negate that being the cause , correct ?
Jeremy Vasquez Your car DOES have a crank sensor. It is located to the right of the oil filter housing. However based on what your telling me, you may have some faulty injectors. They may be stuck open. Does the car smell like gas a lot? When you pull the plugs out, what do they look like? Are they wet?
Jeremy Vasquez Do you have the 2.0? Or the 1.8T?
Hello. So I'm on the step to turn the Crankshaft to alight the teeth before removing the Timing Belt. So when I spin the crankshaft with my ratchet the top pulley does nothing. It seems like the crankshaft is just spinning freely. I don't know what that means. Help please.
I did your car recently just stop running?
So I am trying to find out if you had the car die while driving it recently? Or was the car not starting? How many miles on the car?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I was driving when the timing belt gave out. Had to tow my back home. Sat there for a couple months until I finally got the chance to fix the belt.
Update: so I was finally able to take the belt off and turns out the camshaft wasn't spinning when I turned the crankshaft simply because all the teeth on the belt were broken off. I did my best to align the timing put in new water pump, tensioner, and timing belt. But now it won't start. There zero compression. It turns over and sounds like whining noise but not compustion/compression. I also noticed when it turns over i can hear a huge air leak coming from the middle of the engine. Idk. Im thinking now that I have some bent valves from when the belt originally gave out. What do you think? Ideas. 💡?
Adrian Gonzalez that’s exactly why I asked if it died recently. You said it there yourself. The belt broke. At that point the valves were already bent. Putting the new belt on as you can see won’t fix the valves. You need to take the cylinder head off and inspect the pistons and have the head rebuilt and resurfaced.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Dam. I was hoping you wouldn't say that. So after the installation of the new head. The install for the timing belt is the same (same alignment for the tick marks and all)
Thanks alot for your help. I really appreciate it.
So on an automatic transmission you don’t need to zero the fly mark?
Scroll down to post #2
www.vwvortex.com/threads/crankshaft-timing-marks-auto-trans-2-0.8123746/
Do I need to jack the engine up or will I be good without jacking it up
You’re going to want to support the engine.
Will this work on a golf as well?
If it has the 2.0 engine yes. Up to a MK4 golf 2.0. NOT the new 2.0
Great video! Thank you for posting. My 2000 2.0 Golf GTi has 90k Miles on it, I cant find any service history which mentions a timing belt change. Considering the car is 20 years old do you think its safe to assume this must have been done already? Is there any way to check? I'd rather not spend the money if it might have been done 4 years ago or something? Finally, is it catastrophic if the cambelt snaps on these engines? I know some engines fair better than others if this happens. Many thanks.
90k miles and no service record? I would change it. When did you take ownership? It’s a mileage AND age thing. Rubber will deteriorate and that car is 21 years old now. That motor is an interference motor. When the belt breaks, say goodbye to a valve or two.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thanks for the speedy reply! I've had it for a year but its been in storage, not used. It has almost full service history (stamps in the book) but most of the paperwork is missing. In 2016 at 70,771 miles it is noted as 'Full service' in the service book and in 2019 at 81,469 miles it says 'Major Service'. I'm pretty sure one of those must have included a timing belt change. Tricky decision what to do now when it will cost about £400 for a cambelt change and the car only cost me £600 to buy. I'm tempted to chance it but it would be a shame if the engine failed.
If it was done at a shop or dealership, sometimes they keep those records stored in the archives. Might be worth a try giving them a ring to see what’s been done?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Absolutely, I tried to call today but it was closed (its a bank holiday here in the UK) I'll try again tomorrow. Thanks.
Cheers. Hopefully you get it sorted. If you can do the work yourself, it really isn’t too much money.
Will a 2000 2.0 fit in a 97 golf?
Yes. Electronics won’t be the same.
How the heck you get the last bolt out of the lower engine mount. Got two out but can't get to the third
Blindly. Thin ratchet with some type of socket/extension combination that won’t hit the frame rail.
Blindly. Thin ratchet with some type of socket/extension combination that won’t hit the frame rail.
Blindly. Thin ratchet with some type of socket/extension combination that won’t hit the frame rail.
jack up the engine until you get it in good position
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I am in the middle of this and stopped by the third bolt. Spent a morning on it before finding your video. I guess there is not a special tool for this then; down to Halfords tomorrow to see about a thin profile ratchet. Axa Axa says to jack up the engine 'til you get a good position but I don't feel comfortable with this, it seems to be forcing beyond were it wants to go.
Can't get the timing belt plastic cover back on :(
It shouldn’t be too difficult if you’re talking about the one the clips up on top.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair well, I got one side to clip. I don't think its seating right at the bottom. Honestly I couldnt even get it to come out fully haha, so I never saw what's down there
I thought engine should only be turned clockwise when setting belt tension.. as main thrust on belt is from crankshaft pulley…so there mustn’t be any slack on the 12 o’clock to 9 o’clock tensioner..?? Otherwise a good video, many thanks… Why don’t everybody just take off the coolant tank to give more clearance.. It’s empty anyway.?
My car starts then dies out after a few seconds is this because of the timing belt being bad? the car has 183k and samee timing belt. It does the same thing with the valet key. So i dont think its the imobilizer.
If that is the original timing belt. CHANGE IT NOW. Sounds more like you have a crank sensor issue. If the security key is flashing while you’re cranking the car, you have an immobilizer problem.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Nope wasnt either of them Replaced them both i disconnected the MAF and it runs fine Hook it up and it stalls out.
Wel the belt wouldn’t cause the engine to stall, I am more worried about it breaking and then there goes the cylinder head.
As far as me guessing a crank sensor or
Immobilizer, those are just that, guesses. Not being present with the car can only allow me to guess or assume things.
If you had a check engine light on the whole time, that would most likely have lead you in the right direction right away.
I can’t seem to match up the fly wheel any tips?
Is your car a manual or automatic?
Of course. If you can’t get all the marks to line up at once, give the engine another rotation or two and see if they line up. If not, it is possible that an aftermarket flywheel was placed into the car and it may or may not have the timing mark on it.
As long as you get the cam gear mark lined up, mark the belt and the cam gear BEFORE you take it off in two places. I also mark the belt and tge crank gear in two places. Then remove the belt and transfer those marks to the new belt. Then you should be able to line those marks up to the marks on the cam and crank gears.
It’s redundant but I like doing it that way. That way I know for sure my timing marks are all good to go.
Looks like you are trying to comment but it keeps getting deleted. What were you asking me?
The engine rotates clockwise.
nbpt1000 cool
I was wondering is it safe to spin it counterclockwise for alignment purposes?
If you missed the mark by a small amount 1/8” or 1/4” then I would turn it back just to make it there. If you have gone further than that, then just keep spinning clockwise to line it up againz
What antifreeze is required
Bmw coolant is blue, however if you has green in there, just match that.
Great video but the engine should be turned clockwise.
no not really, it doesn't actually matter what way it is done.
@@timothy930 My VW manual says otherwise, but if your engine runs I think it doesn't matter.
@schwanana and my honda manual says to only put in Honda oil. They have to say stuff like that im not sure why but they do
What if the timing belt broke? Then what?
Then you would have to pull the head and see which valves need to be replaced and inspect the pistons as well. There will be damage, a valve job and a pressure test will need to be done at the least.
I wish the title of these videos included MANUAL or AUTOMATIC because that matters for the steps to set top dead center. I'm trying to learn how to do a proper TIMING FROM SCRATCH which also is to find the TDC on the compression stroke. I'm just not a mechanic and wasting my morning finding videos that don't apply to me and i'm 5 miles from a massive wildfire trying to save my 2001 VW Beetle. Please, update your video to say "MANUAL" so people people don't waste their time, there are plenty of us trying to find this info. I can't be the only one.
You can follow the same timing marks aside from the bell housing transmission mark because obviously you don’t have that one.
Your camshaft should have a notch that says “OT” and then it will line up to the “OT” mark on the upper timing cover. Line those up.
Now AFTER you have removed the 4 Allen head bolts holding on the crank pulley and you have removed the crank pulley you will see the smaller crank gear that the timing belt is riding on.
Simply use a paint marker or white out to put hashmarks were they are both facing each other. You can also put paint marks on the intermediate shaft in relation to the crankshaft. This way you know where the crank needs to be in relation to the camshaft gear. Also mark the crank gear to a mark on the block behind it so that way you know where the crank needs to be. So pretty much you will have 2 marks to make double sure you mr crank doesn’t move.
Basically a timing belt job is easy to line up marks. I have done them WITHOUT putting the engine at TDC BEFORE IN THE PAST. I do recommend making marks on the belt, camshaft and crankshaft in random places BEFORE removing the belt. This way you can transfer those marks to the new belt and this is yet another safeguard for you.
Please check out my 2JZ timing belt video. Skip forward to where I remove the belt and you will see that I marked the belt before taking it off. Then I transferred those marks to the new belt.
The belt doesn't just roll on over the tensioner! To much needles banter bad video