Anycubic Kossel 3D printer Upgrades- How to Install Heated bed and Linear Rails Part 1

$179.99 Purchase link for the base printer: bit.ly/2qVGDdD Coupon code "K3DP"
More info...
If you find a less expensive link please provide it in the comments section.
If you would like a copy of the 3D printable bracket geometry, and the updated firmware, please donate some money to the patreon page. Then send a message within patreon with your email address and the files you are requesting.
Patreon: / designprototypetest
Parts specs:
Power Supply - 12v 15a ~$15
Thermistor - NTC 3950 100K ~$1
Linear Rails - MGN H MR12 @ 500mm ~$25each
Cork layer is 5mm thick

[@jasonm.6087]

Quick DIY tip for T-Nuts on the Kossel style printers:

[@ianide2480]

I printed my own t-nuts and i nested an actual hex nut inside of them using the Pause at Z plugin for Cura. This allowed me to use standard size machine screws =)

[@aaronbeckman]

Just a note to anyone out there taking their entire printer apart to get the T nuts, if you screw a bolt into them a little bit and try to pull them out at an angle it (sometimes) works...for me at least.

[@minskmade]

nice attention to detail

[@elmariachi5133]

Hello!

[@ruevs]

A printing diameter of 180mm is the largest you can get with the Anycubic without hitting the belts. However it requires spacers on the outside of the ball joints in addition to the ones on the inside.

[@edwinclulow3364]

Thank you for the video. Leveling the bed is not the easiest thing. Can you tell us how to add the auto-level and which one you would recommend?

[@asalottin]

Once again, fantastic, authentic job -- earned my sub! P.S.: you may want to rename the vid title to Part 1. =)

[@forgottenburger1718]

Do you have a link to the bracket parts for the bed?

[@thomaspauld]

I have installed the same heated bed on my Anycubic Kossel Delta printer already, but I do not use the glass, Instead I used mounts already available on thingiverse that fit in the same place as the existing glass mounts raising the heated bed about 5 to 8mm above the frame. I have cut my cork to the size of the heated bed and fixed it to the Ali side of the heated bed, laid it in the frame and trimmed around the mountings, so it would lay flat on the mounts. I fitted a 30 amp PSU with brackets to the outside of the frame laid flat, then connected the 5 Amp and the 11 Amp inputs on the board as one is for the machine and the other for the heated bed. I fitted the corked heated bed Ali side down in the thingiverse mounts. Then I stuck the build plate to the heated bed red side up. Did my calibration and its been working great ever since. As for the mounts being loose on the rails for the X, Y & Z I just tightened the single screw on each assemble and there is no slop what so ever, so for now I'm not fitting linear rails.

[@shaerodenaizen4375]

for a second i was worried that you were actually going to try bracketing a heated bed with print with parts that get limp with heat.

[@iktita]

why you dont talk about the termistor port?

[@OBELIKS42]

Wouldn't it be better if you have the heated bed directly on the frame, without the cork in between? I imagine the cork is not perfectly flat

[@derivas007]

please add a video how you setup calibration

[@NurText]

Where'd you get those linear rails from?

[@normcaissie5598]

what software are you using for cad?

[@saidjohn1905]

This PSU looks not really trustfull

[@pmm4177]

Metric system... lol