Anycubic Kossel 3D printer Upgrades- How to Install Heated bed and Linear Rails Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 16 июл 2024
- Here in part 2, we see the successfully upgraded printer and talk about various other issues and tips relating to the Anycubic kossel printer.
Patreon: / designprototypetest
$179.99 Purchase link for the base printer: bit.ly/2qVGDdD Coupon code "K3DP" Note: I get no $ from this link. If you find a less expensive link please provide it in the comments section.
Parts specs:
Power Supply - 12v 15a ~$15
Thermistor - NTC 3950 100K ~$1
220mm circular heated bed PCB from ebay ~$10
Cork layer is 5mm thick ~$2.50
Linear Rails - MGN H MR12 @ 500mm ~$25each
Hi. Me again first question does your Marlin 1.1.4 (in the patrion) have the setup for normal Anycubic Kossel or is it for your Linear rail version? Second have you checked the output voltage of your PSU? if it's about 12v then turn it up to somewhere between 12.8 and 13.8v then your bed should heat up quicker.
Hi Paul, Yes, the Marlin build will work for a Kossel without the linear rails. You just need to adjust the "DELTA_RADIUS" value in the configuration.h file. This is a normal part of configuring the printer. I will be going over it in the next video.
I understand Delta Radius the point of asking was so people going to pay the patreon fee to get it know whether or not they have what they need, not all buyers would know how to convert any code and may upload to their printer only to find it does not work properly. I also feel you should have said that the upgrade to the latest firmware will be needed if they are going to install auto bed levelling ( like I have ) as the original firmware does not support this option. Remember I have this printer and I told you about the 5 and 11 amp inputs on your last video. I'm also about 6 steps ahead of you at the moment on mods, I like the videos keep up the work.
I do remember you. Thank you for your input! In the video I specifically talked about the 5 and 11 amp inputs because of your comments. :)
"Marvin is a community driven open source software, and it keeps getting better and better every time I download it!"
Yeah, It gets better every time you download it because people contribute to its development by GIVING BACK the changes and upgrades they've made, not putting up a paywall.
What a difference 2 years makes. Most of the upgrades that you showed are now standard on the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus including heated bed, linear rail system with stops on the extrusions, power supply with setup as your upgrade and auto leveling. Note on the Linear Slides, the industry nomenclature for them now is MGN12H or MGN12HC if marked on the slide itself. Do not get the MGN12C versions as they are thinner. And the price for the same unit shown is now about the same as you can buy the Linear Plus version on ebay. As the price of a slider and rail is about $30 each ( $90 total ), you are better off buying a complete Linear Plus. I'm putting mine together right now and when it is done, it will print a few other upgrades like plate hold-downs, top corner covers, bottom motor covers, and maybe move the feed roll to the top of the machine.
Hi there! I just wondering about this 500mm linears... 400mm isnt enough for the "mini" kossel? Just let me know your opinion! ;) cheers
The Kossel board (TriGorilla) has a separate power input for the heated bed, so you can directly feed it with 24V, no SSR needed.
Good point! It basically has an on-board Mosfet Bed Power unit.
The problem with the "twisty" nuts is that they often don't work as advertised, I prefer better solid nuts (actually cut to the profile shape), it might be a pain but you get much better results.
I just looked and that makes sense, more iinterlocking surface area to reduce slop.
Have you ever had a problem with the effector being almost 1mm higher at the towers, than at other points in the board? Sort of like a bowl-shaped deformation in the movement of the effector?
I know the bed is perfectly flat, I measured it myself, so it's a motion problem. Do you know what I should do?
adjust print radius setting in firmware. for the kossel linear (not plus, regular) it should be 100.x +/-0.3mm
Great Video. I have been looking at the mini Kossel kits for a week and I'd really like to buy one. Is there a kit you would recommend with a heated bed already included? What's your feeling on the auto-bed leveling that comes with some of the kossel kits? I was looking at a FLSUN kit but some of the components that are injection molded are poorly designed some people report.
A commenter on a previous video of mine said that he did not receive the auto bed leveling sensor with his kit, even after contacting the seller. Click "show more" on the video description above and you will find a link to this printer for $179. Add in the cost of installing a heated bed as I've shown, and the total cost is around $210. This is a lot cheaper than the flsun printer on Amazon. I will be showing how to install auto mesh bed leveling on this printer in a future video.
please could you make a video how to tune correctly
Like I said at the end of the video, this is the next one I am making. These take me 10-20 hours of work to make. You gotta give me some time man :)
yes i know all the work is needed so huge thanks you for you hard working
you video are amazing
Watched parts one and two. Where the part of sitting the linear rails, please?
Sorry, I did not film that part of the build. It is a very straight forward and easy install. Just make sure the rails are up so that they sit flush with the end stops at the top.
how many m4 2020 t-nuts would you need to replace every t-nut on the frame? Thanks.
40 would be minimum by my count. Better to get a 50 pack, so you have a few left over to mount extra things to the extrusions when you upgrade.
nice review.
do you have the file or link for the power supply with the switch?
i have also a broken pc power supply that have being broken and want to juse the idea
Martin van der Splinter You can find a free version of that on Thingiverse. I provide the .stl file of the design I made (along with all the other part files and the latest firmware build) to all of my $5 Patreon supporters.
Thanxs
Is there an ETA on the calibration video for this printer?
Thanks!
I'm working on it right now. Look for it tonight or tomorrow.
Design Prototype Test oh wow! Thanks a lot for the reply and the videos!
I am building my own delta printer but now I'm in a dilemma, how much amp does my power supply needs to have?
The heated bed is the key to amperage required. The control board and fans use very little power (about 1A), the Heated nozzle requires about 5A, and the Hot Bed typically requires about 10A. Therefore, if you have a 200mm diameter bed, you will need a 12v 20A power supply to give you a little bit of a safety margin. For reference: Most of the printers coming from China that have 200mm square heated beds typically ship with 15A power supplies. Of course you can get much more into this. For instance, using a 24v power supply for the bed will greatly reduce the heat up time. If you have a larger bed (say 300mm) this becomes almost necessary.
Design Prototype Test Oke I get it, I'll go with a 20a (200mm heated bed). Thank you so much man!
Greetings from Holland!
It seems I recall your criticizing printer makers for not using 24V power supplies. I'm curious why, since you were buying the supply anyway, you didn't go with 24V. It takes half the amperage for a given power output and puts less stress on whatever controller you link it to. Normally those board interfaces will handle a wide array of voltages.. ~ 5-30V. You never mention the resistance of the heated plate. Do you know what it is?
I did this mod a couple of years ago when 24v power supplies were not as common and hence were more expensive. Also, the small bed on this printer means it will heat up reasonably quickly even with a 12v supply.
Regarding firmware - Repetier is a better option for delta printers. The code is optimised better and allows more steps per second to be calculated. This leads to smoother motion and better prints. You can download a copy of the Repetier firmware that I configured for the Anycubic Kossel Liner by following the link in the description of my review video.
Did you do any coding to make your build of Repetier, or did you just use the online webpage-based Repetier configuration tool? You claim Repetier to be better than Marlin. Can you substantiate that claim? Please recall that I am using the very latest 2017 build of Marlin. Any comparisons between three year old versions of the firmwares are no longer valid. Things have changed dramatically in Marlin since 2014. Has the Repetier firmware similarly been advanced?
No code changes. I modified only github.com/ruevs/repetier_anycubic_kossel/blob/master/Repetier/Configuration.h - by hand (but I kept it compatible with the online configuration tool, so that users can easily change things - like add a heated bed).
Regarding Marlin vs. Repetier - last time I tinkered with the firmware back in December Marlin was at 1.0.2-2 (2016-10-30), the 1.1 series were still RC (release candidates), so I did not use them. Repetier is _definitely_ better than 1.0.2-2 Marlin, but that version is just a bug fix of 1.0.2 from 2015-10-05.
Now I see that since then they released 1.1 (and 1.1.4) and from the change log (github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/releases) is seems that:
"The code has been significantly optimized in several areas, leading to fewer stutters, better delta performance,..."
So I will try Marlin again - it would be an interesting experiment.
@@ruevsПривет, вам удалось протестировать новую прошивку Marlin. Каковы результаты?
@@egor_niko Удалось :-)
I tested Marlin 1.1.8 here:
ruclips.net/video/JCflNCotl70/видео.html
and compared it to Repetier.
By now Marlin is at 2.x , which I have not tested yet.
And then there is Klipper, which in my opinion is even better than Repetier.
I just purchased the Anycubic Kossel Linear plus. It has the larger print surface, heated bed and 20amp psu included. Will your firmware work with this version?
Yes. It should. You need to check that you have the "TriGorilla" control board. And you need to check the length of your arms. I assume they will still be around 218mm. It's easy to change that variable in the firmware and also the bed size. When/if you pledge $5 on patreon, make sure you send me your email address, and also communicate these numbers to me. I will modify the firmware before I send it off to you.
Thanks for getting back to me so fast!
The printer arrived today (7 days from China Aliexpress) which caught me off gaurd but I'm not complaining. Quite the opposite as this was completely unexpected and welcomed, first impressions only happen once!
I plan on working on the build tomorrow and I'll get the numbers requested as well as my patreon donation...a small price to pay as I can say with certainty that $5.00 worth, of my time, would npt be enough for Windows to boot in safe mode. Thanks for sharing the files and will look forward to seeing the setups
I will be releasing the Video with the BLTouch automatic bed leveling upgrade either tomorrow or the next day. I HIGHLY recommend you do this upgrade. You should order the genuine sensor from www.antclabs.com/store and then wait to donate to my Patreon page until I upload that video.
Ok I can do that, I have 2 at the moment one was for my Tevo Black Widow and the other is a spare, neither have been used. I'll definitely wait for the video, how did you mount yours? I'll have to look at thingiverse to see if a mount is available or find one that's decent and modify it. Thanks again
I will send you the .stl file for the mounting bracket along with the firmware. It's much more minimal/elegant than anything I've seen on Thingiverse.
anycubic just released a new updated firmware.
The pulleys setup are not that easily affected by heat. Those are ABS, which only start softening at around 100C. unless you are heating the carriages intentionally, there is no way that the non-malfunction bed will be producing and conducting that much heat to the carriages even inside an enclosurer.
The pulleys setup are however are still fairy flexible and those rounded wheels do not roll perfectly perpendicular on the t-slot, under high speed, high acceleration and deceleration, the carriages and the pulleys setup will be flexing a lot, they will not be locked on to the towers or stay parallel at all time because of the opposing forces from the other carriages. of cause, if you print only at slow print speed, low acceleration and jerk like 30mm/s or lower, this is should not be too obvious but kind of defeating the purpose of having a delta since one of the biggest advantage of having a delta is the high speed printing. My lowest default printing speed is 60mm/s on a delta.
Linear rail on the other hand, allow the carriages to stay almost completely linear/parallel to the tower at all time. in turn allow you to print faster without affecting the movement of the effector.
can you post the link to the upgrades
Hi T, as I said in the video, I'm going to provide that info to anyone who donates $5 to the Patreon page.
T Rucker common parts found on aliexpress.
Mike Fisher I was only looking for the power supply mount and switch mount
You can find a printable switch mount/cover on thingieverse.
Apparently I've had my motors wrong for a few years now lol
Any modifications to the source code must be publicly available and not behind a pay wall. You can charge for the compiled stuff, but you must make the source freely available - even configuration.h according to the GPL 3.0 under which Marlin operates.
Come on man, don't give me a hard time. I've spent hundreds of hours making these videos, and to date I've made $57. This is unsustainable! Anyway, the files are publicly available. I'm just not broadcasting the location of the file for download. If you donate to my patreon page I will tell you where it is located, and also give you all the STL files for all the parts I've designed.
That's not how it works. Don't try to change GPL, you won't win and you'll look like a ass.
I'm not changing the GPL. The file is on a public server for anyone to download. You can go download it right now.
Look at your reply, you seem to be lumping attempting to paywall for GPL software to your time/efforts at making videos. Those are unrelated.
There is no paywall. It's on a public server for anyone to go download. Why don't you go do that?
Well your parts one and two of installing Heated Bed & Linear Rails actually equate to about 99.5%heated bed and .5% linear rails. Seriously I think the only info you gave on the actual install was the part number no actual install info at all
You are violating the GPL by charging a fee. You must make the source code available to all, that's how open-source works.
I have already covered this issue in my other videos. In short: You are wrong. Free means open, it does not mean monetarily free. Marlin operates under GNU GPU Ver.3. Go look up the "GNU General Public License" and you will see the words:
"When we speak of free software, we are referring to freedom, not price. Our General Public Licenses are designed to make sure that you have the freedom to distribute copies of free software (and charge for them if you wish), that you receive source code or can get it if you want it, that you can change the software or use pieces of it in new free programs, and that you know you can do these things."
Does this poor man have a good mental healthcare professional watching over him cause God Damn.....
So, you're a troll insinuating that I have broken cognition and need to see a psychologist? Perhaps it is you who lacks the mental faculty to construct a legitimate criticism and instead you choose to cast aspersions upon the character of random strangers on the internet. You might want to choose a more up to date video. Nobody except the creators reads the comments on these old videos. You'll get more mileage from your trolling on recent content.
WOW, you're charging people for your version of free marlin!!! And for your crappy design and upgrades!!!! that is disgusting !!!!!!
He could be sued for violation of the GPL if Marlin wanted to... github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/LICENSE
His defense is the license says its literally okay. What he doesn't care to understand however is part of the license requires it remains open-source if you charge for it. Meaning you can charge for it, but its supposed to be possible to get it for free as well. Even if he was totally in the right its a fucking scummy thing to do with an open-source software. Specifically with something to do with the 3D printing community, which is the epitome of open-source and freeuse in my opinion.
On the plus side however, if anyone has bought it they can distribute it for free and if he tries to stop you he's violating the license.
You're right. It's okay... if he abides by the terms of the license. If he doesn't then it's not okay and he's using unlicensed copyrighted software (piracy). You don't get to pick and choose what parts of a license you comply with.