Manual calibration on a Kossel Delta style 3D Printer with Marlin firmware AKA Bed leveling
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- Опубликовано: 5 авг 2017
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Printer Purchase link: bit.ly/2qVGDdD
Use coupon code "K3DP" to get the pinter for $169.99
Note: I do not make any money from this link. It is the least expensive option I've seen on the internet. If you can find it for less please post the link in the description below.
Where is COM3 port
Alec Hubbard You plug the USB cable into a free USB port on your computer. Then you go to the com menu and select that port. It may be com3, it may be com9, or com4, etc. Usually it is the highlighted one,
Thanks but where is the com menu is what i meant
I show that at the 6:44 mark in the video.
thank you so much for the quick reply but my only port says /dev/cu. etc... im so confused
I think I know what your problem is. You need to specify the type of Arduino board you are using. In this case it is an Arduino MEGA 2560.
It was not boring... actually educative, thanks for all that info I will find it really useful.
More of these video tutorials would be highly appreciated. Thanks for your time and your will to share these information ;)
I watched lots of videos on setting up flsun delta printer, always something that didn't quite match or run properly. I like this one, due to simple use of arduino interface and just 2 variables to get the bed level and height correct. Thanks, I appreciate the time taken.
You have been providing some very informative info on this printer setup (especialy the calibration). You have been helping me come to a purchase decision on this. If I pull the trigger, I will make a donation to your Patreon page
This method of leveling makes much more sense. Thank you. And good call with the jam nuts.
I will add that if you start at P(0, 80) your other two coordinates should be P(+/-69.3, -40.0) as the pillars are 120 degrees apart.
Actually that was not a boring video it was exactly what I needed to get my FLSUN printer printing.
Thank you for taking the time and doing this video!
I know this was boring for you, but it gave me more tools for my N00b self to learn. (I've been letting bed leveling/calibration kick my butt for 2 days now. Thank you much.
Thanks for these awesome videos! I've lived your great clearly communicated intelligence! Also I love having you as another source of info for the anycubic kossel delta printer. Can't wait for the other bed leveling tool once life allows you to make it. Checked out your startup and find it awesome! Wish I had the money and the need like I had before for a travel bag when I worked overseas or went anywhere much really. Maybe someday. But I'll be praying for a successful campaign build up to reach and exceed your goals. Congrats on the new baby arrival coming as well! Wow big end of the year for your fam! I hope that eventually when life settles more I can keep getting your great videos! You've become one of my favorite subscribes for printer learning and what nots. Your just very intelligent and you articulate in such a way that makes it all make sense, and I know all the editing and linking takes much time. Thanks again and you'll be in prayers for you and the fam!!
Thank you for the support Jag!!!
I just switched to magnetic rods, and I'm using the opportunity to make the printer more accurate. This video really helped a lot! thanks you for making it, there aren't many videos that explain how to do this type of thing, or what those delta settings are really doing!
Mine arrives tomorrow! Can't wait. Great tutorial.
Oh, and a few more tips for anyone watching:
First, Make sure your X and Y axes are in the correct orientation. Or rotate the printer untill they are. Otherwise you will hurt your brain moving the print head around.
I used pronterface (from anycubic Google drive) to move the head around. Create macro's for each point you want to move to, name them x y z o for the pillars and origin. Then you just type the name of the macro instead of the long commands.
Next, add a nut to those calibration bolts, stop them from moving when your done. I had to recalibrate after each print untill I did that.
And finally, your first print should be better mounting for hardware for the glass bed. That will help.
Wow, this comment is just as boring as the video. Oops.
John M Thanks for the good info.
Thanks for doing a video on delta calibration.
I ordered mine....can't wait
This Video helped me so much,
Thank You!!
Thanks! Now i can use normaly my delta printer! My all problems is solved your video!
Yes, you are right, the provided PTFE tube did not work for me either. Had a spare tube in my collection box....and yes, leveling the bed is a pain :-)
But anyway, nice video, thanks for your effort
Thanx for taking the time to explain this.
If you consider it boring, you could just sum up the steps in text, and say something like "Repeat this until you get the x value to zero; it will take you between 5 an 15 minutes".
:)
Also consider this text:
minow.blogspot.fr/index.html#4918805519571907051
Thank you for the video. I'm still waiting for my Anycubic from gearbest.
Thank you. Was trying to make it to save the conf instead of adjusting the top bolts on my custom build, i was thinking i got two mesh interacting or disabling eachother instead of it was only supposed to give a value.
cool video... Good luck on the baby
Hi , I followed the instruction book and the printer seemed to be working ok. Then I decided to upload the firmware as in the instruction book and now the display only shows 2 lines of white boxes.and I cant do anything with the printer. Please help as I'''ve got a printer I cant use.
Hi useful video. Does command M420 V (show bed levels) work on your delta?
I was able to follow the tutorial to the point where I am ment to calibrate the Delta Radius.
My bed center is at Z0, but my X0 Y80 touches the bed at +2,1mm for almost all values I type in for DeltaRadius in Marlin.
Im really new to 3d printing.Now im trying to level my anycubic kossel but in the arduino there is no delta height to change so its always 5~8cm above the bed
When I do the M211 S0 I just get Ok nothing else. Not sure what to do?
I just got the Delta Multimaker D1, after installing my software tried to rehome it sing the software, but it just lowers down, it doesnt travel upward to the top stops, any ideas?
so if i'm going from an older version of marlin where the smooth value as adjusted to a new version where its the radius, should I go back to the original smooth rod setting in the new version?
The newer versions of Marlin remove the Smooth_Rod_Offset variable and compute the movements without it. This simplifies things. Just change the radius value if you have a newer version that doesn't have smooth_rod as an option.
how do i set my z probe in the firmware in Arduino? i have the version 2 deployable probe. do i bracket out the wrong ones? im very new to 3d printing and need help with this.
haha yes! love that knob.
lean back like snoop and driftttt ittttttt
I would do this if it would fix the bed level option on through the LCD controls. I just did the manual leveling similar to what you did, but kept the firmware from the OEM Google drive. The axis points were a big help, got everything down to 1/5 MM.
In the most recent version of Marlin.ino, there is no DELTA_HEIGHT or DELTA_RADIUS option under the Configuration.h sketch.
Also, my Serial Monitor will not do anything i tell it to. Not even G28, help pls?!
I apologize. I can't help you. I haven't touched Marlin for a few versions. After using the DUET Wifi board I can't imagine going back to that frustrating firmware. The only reason anyone would ever use Marlin (and the requisite 8 bit processor b/c Marlin doesn't work on 32bit processors) on a Delta printer is price. It is inferior in every other way. The $175 USD to get a DUET with the 32 bit processor, and Reprap firmware is money well spent. Watch my video series on the Tevo Little Monster for more information: ruclips.net/video/asSLjLGlSrw/видео.htmlm35s
How to Install DUET on a Delta: ruclips.net/video/BgkJVgFnPaE/видео.html
Hi,
What's the LCD knob you are using ?
Any chance you give a link to the .STL file ?
Thanks.
When I press autolevel the motors begin shaking violently and the print head swings out of bounds of the print area. Im not sure what the issue is. Any suggestions?
moving wrong direction?
You X Y measurments are for the kossel plus or the normal kossel
small question while printing the xyz calibration cube my z measurmets is spot on, but my x and y are to big. what can i do ?
This is very strange behavior for a Delta Printer. If it was a Cartesian printer I would say check your X and Y steps per mm in the firmware, but so much has to go right on a Delta in order to get a print which works but is just stretched in the X and Y. Are you sure you didn't do something in the slicing software?
The serial monitor doesn’t work when I input any code any idea
This was so boring I had to rewatch it. I rather enjoy your videos. Especially this one
Thank you Paul. You are very kind. :)
have you had any luck with the G33 auto bed leveling command? my inductive sensor keeps probes a point off the bed and I havent been able to figure out what to adjust to probe on the bed
Noah Pan I'm halfway through making that video.The sensor is installed, and the firmware has been updated. I'm just waiting on a part in the mail.
What kind of allen key did you use to change the scews on top ? Imperial or Metric? which measurment ? i cannot find one that works on those screws ...
All the hardware on this machine is Metric. The correct tool should have come in the kit with the printer.
I have followed your steps closely so far to entering the G28 code. When I put it in I get nothing. I push enter also the send button still nothing. Am I doing something wrong? Or did I overlook something?
Never mind I figured it out I had to change the Word on the bottom to Newline. In front of the baud rate.
OK now I just put in the M211 S0 and I'm getting nothing
at 23:07, which part of the 3D Printer are you adjusting with? I can't see because of your hand (which very normal, camera angle) Could you please tell me the name of that part for bed-levelling?
Serhat Sine I was adjusting the limit screw which pokes out of the top of the carriage. This screw engages the limit switch at the top. By adjusting it up and down you change the height where the nozzle hits the bed at that upright pillar.
where do you doawload latest marlin firmware for the anycubic delta?
great video thanks a lot
The regular marlin firmware has Delta functionality built in. I showed where to download that in the video. You will have to make many changes to that firmware to get it fully running with the TriGorilla board on the Kossel. If you would like a copy of the build which I made. Please go to my Patreon page, and donate $5. I will send you all the digital files I have made for this printer including all the printable .stl files.
you can use m666 command it s a lot easier to tune endstop..
i'm having a lot of trouble with my printer it seems like it's not print level. when it starts printing it jams the nozzle into the bed scratching the bed, until it makes it to the opposite side, where it hovers a bit too high from the bed. I have a TriGorilla motherboard and an don't think adjrino can help me. ( i hope i'm wrong)
Your printer is not set up correctly in firmware. You need to get the distances correct. Make sure that your printer is assembled as perfectly as you can get it with no gaps anywhere, and then re watch this video, paying special attention to the part about "smooth rod distance" and "delta radius" Really, though these glorified Arduino boards (like the tri-gorilla) have no business running delta printers. You need a DUET board. Watch my upcoming videos because they will be entirely on this subject.
for some reason when I auto home the thing just seems to want to go straight down into the bed. this may be my fault as I've updated the firmware once, and the screen went blank aside from two filled rows, now to get my screen to even display anything I had to go into the example configurations folder of my marlin folder and copy two configuration files from the kossel xl folder. So long story short I lost my original firmware and right now I'm trying to figure out which configuration you are using in this video, the default marlin configuration gives me the two bar screen as well.
I'm getting ready to calibrate my delta and am curious why you reuploaded to change your delta radius instead of changing it in the eeprom? It's much quicker than reuploading every time. Once you get it set right you can then set it in the config file and upload.
Your technique sounds like a winner to me. :) I just like to work in the base level whenever possible. I get confused trying to remember what I changed in EEPROM and what the base Marlin build had specified. Plus there are those rare instances where the EEPROM settings are not being recognized, but I think your techniques is most likely function perfectly and more quickly than mine.
Interesting - thanks for the info. Did you get the BL Touch installed successfully?
Not yet. I've been waiting on parts from Korea for 2 weeks. It's frustrating, because the build is 95% complete and people keep asking when I'll get that done.
'kk. I understand your frustration. Looking forward to future video's. :-)
So basically, zero the outer edges, then zero the center, then figure out if it is rising or lowering when moved to the outer edges, and fiddle with the parameters (For me, it's the #define Delta_Smooth_Rod_Offset) to get it right?
So if the outer edges are higher than the center, such as my situation, that would be a convex "motion", and create a concave part, in theory...I think... so which way do I adjust that parameter? Haha
I got this printer last week. I just did all my manual leveling and Now you release this video? Thanks.
Now, it didn't do me much good mind you, after all that it's correct at the pillars and the center, but the glass bed still has about 0.5 mm between the highest and lowest point.
So now I printed a z-probe, with a microswitch (like the endstops) but I can not get a firmware that levels correctly, they all seem to go out of their way to probe outside the radius.
I'd pay 5 bucks for.your firmware if mesh leveling works with that. Does it?
EDIT NVM, Made it myself from the last daily bugfix build. Surprisingly not difficult.
If you don't know what your doing though, get a version from someone that does.
4:09 why dose it say “stair porn” in the book marks?
It's an architect thing: www.stairporn.org/
I hate to ask because I know this is an old video (and it seems like you’re pretty much done with it) but I’m planning on getting these files from your patreon because I just bought a Kossel and I haven’t been able to get it out of paperweight mode since I got it. I’m checking to see if all of your files are still available and if I get lost, do you answer clarifying questions about your leveling method video? I’m a complete noob at this, Anycubic have been no help so far, and I’m determined to make it work!
I can help guide you a bit if you become a Patreon supporter, but I can't spend too much time with you. i.e. don't count on my help. I definitely cannot help you with Marlin. My advice to you as a noob is to start with and Ender 3 and then if you want to fiddle, upgrade it using a Duet board as I have shown in my playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLtVk4dZInT80SCVB_Pgrn1zZThO3nmV7B
Design Prototype Test okay thanks! I guess that’s as good as I can ask for!
Please hurry with the bltouch video I need to have my 3d printer done in one week😥
At 12:00 you issue G1 Y80, then M211 S0. Then, when the camera shows the printer itself, the end effector is still in the center of the bed. Did M211 move it back or did G1 Y80 not work or did you skip something? Why did you issue the G1 Y80?
Which way do you turn the adjustment screws? I suppose I could try each way but you could have said.
At 22:12 you issue G0 X70 Y-41 Z0 but then the camera shows the panel displaying Z=-3.0. Shouldn't it say Z=0 even if there's still a gap?
At 27:00 you have just issued G0 Z1 to clear the bed. Then you issue G0 Y80 and discover a gap. Isn't the gap because you had just raised the planchette?
You give pretty good tutorials and I take notes because I'm new to this. I pay attention and nit-pick to get the notes right. Sorry. I guess you were bored.
While making this video I had to repeat the steps multiple times. Between takes I would reset the printer and start filming again. I'm sorry if continuity was lost in the final edit. When I dialed in my printer it was not such a linear process. I was literally writing the sequence of events for my viewers to follow as I was making the video. Ignore what my printer says and just follow the steps that I laid our. The series of commands will work for you as it has worked for others in this comment section.
I made this mistake and I bought anycubic Kossel kit . It was all pain to assemble this crap and now it's impossible to level it. I spent hours to level the center and two corners but the third corner is not level. Now, if I want to level this corner, it will affect the levelness of center and the other two corners and I am back to the first step. Horrible design!
I watched all 29 minutes. Do I get a Tshirt?
r1tual I did so too. Shouldn't have, because I knew how boring it would be.
!! compiling with arduino mega!!
I uploaded Marlin and now the printer doesn't work, it turns on but the display is just blank
I got it working... hopefully won't have to mess around with the firmware like that anytime soon.
Looking forward to the BLTouch video!
Are you one my patreon supporters who received the build of Marlin which I made for this specific printer?
Design Prototype Test Unfortunately no, I got marlin from the source so this wouldn't be an issue with your work.
Hi you can not just download and upload marlin to the printer. the LCD configuration is different. You need to download a Version of Marlin that is aimed at the Kossel anycubic plus printer. You can download it here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2449531
Thanks for the reply, I discovered that afterwards but now I have the problem where G33 Auto Calibration doesn't use my X & Y offset and probes the build plate as though the BLTouch underneath the extruder.
How do I provide $5 dollars? The only items I have found are stating a monthly subscription for $5 per month.
That's the one. You have to cancel it next month. Or maybe next month I'll have made some more videos you want to support, or maybe have made another file (firmware or part .stl) which you want to get you hands on. I'm not getting rich doing this. To date I have made $47 in adsense on RUclips, and $166 from Patreon support. One guy is responsible for $120 of that. I spend at least 20 hours on each video from Building the project, then filming myself redoing the project, then editing the footage. I can't keep making these videos without support.
Cool thanks! I am sending $$$ now for the Anycubic firmware. I was a beta tester and never got a good result. I have spent many $$$ in upgrades and still not satisfied. I would like the new model but I have created it without good results but still hoping. Thx
Excellent thank you! If you watch this ( ruclips.net/video/-e3UXj5ly3U/видео.html ) video i made, you can see that it's not smooth sailing for me with the printer either. I got a few very helpful comments on that video, and I have the time to work on it this weekend, so hopefully I will get auto bed leveling solved soon.
Can I ask how you got to be a beta tester for this printer?
That's a good question. I had one of the first 5 models when they decided to become a 3D printer manu, looks completely different now but its the same with the add-ons. I just happened to make contact with them through their eBay startup on Christmas day of all times. So I become the first person to get and build one two years ago.
Wow, man, that's really cool! Too bad they are constantly changing the design, and there is no standard model. Go look on ebay for the current version. It has a really crappy part cooling setup, and loses like 50mm in printing height with the dangling J-head design.
Could I send PayPal payment instead of Patreon donation for the files?
Thanks
That would be acceptable, but patreon is preferred. To find the email where you can send a paypal payment click on my username then look under the "about" tab.
Design Prototype Test Thanks I'll send that over soon
Design Prototype Test I am not seeing your email anywhere sorry
Harrison Hawkins Click my username. Then, at the top below my banner click on the tab that says "about." Click the "show email" button. Click the "I am not a robot" box.
Design Prototype Test Sent the payment Thanks
The only boring part of this video was hearing how boring this video was supposed to be. When it came to the actual calibration it was anything but.
Thank you. :)
@@DesignPrototypeTest you are welcome and thank you my printer is running great now.