As an automotive cad designer never never never drill a structural part such a control arm, FEA analysis are done on these parts to make sure they are strong enough as is. Making a hole can create a stress concentration area around the hole. Basically a crack can originate around the hole and expand outwards. For example this is common on drilled rotors.
The fix to stop a crack from running is to drill a hole at the end of the crack as a stress reliever. You will need to chamfer both sides of the hole and radius it too. If it was cast iron you'd drill it and hard pin it.
Sorry to say this but this is probably not going to work, especially in a track situation. You need to focus the flow of air not onto the brake disc face but into the center section of the back side of the rotor so that the flow of air goes into and through the passages (veins) between the rotor plates. That's what cools and reduces heat soak, what your doing is just cooling the face of one side of the rotor and will probably end up warping the rotor due to a heat imbalance.
Which direction is the vehicle going? hopefully it's going forward and the air off the duct is going towards the brake rotor. The location off the inner end of the duct is in the general location of the hub and thus the air is going where required. The veins in the rotor go in at the hub area and sweep back at the periphery of the rotor. The factory dust shield is louvered in the area he is removing to aid in getting more airflow. The only way you could get more air there is to run round flex duct and have a hole in the dust shield with a flange and the ducting clamped to it.
I have these on my 2010 Cayman S because they are a bit better than the standard ones and I've also got the upper ducts as I have airflow through the radiator and can utilize it. The only thing I noticed is you didn't (mildly) chamfer and radius the drill holes before installing the threaded inserts. Just keep a check on the backside of the lower control arm 👍.
@@JonnyBarajas I mean before and after on a race track to show they are working at dissipating heat. Could use infrared thermoter and point it at the rotor with duct blocked and then again without it blocked to see the difference
At least the track FRSbrz owners, they drive like Miata drivers; ring out the power they got, brake absolutely late. Like tomorrow, next week-late braking. And yeah, spec Miata/lowhp-lowweight cars will whip bimmers/mustangs/ect at the track just by ignoring fear into corners
![Brembo Brakes on a Budget [FRS/BRZ] [CTS-V/CTS Brake Braket Install]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/C2MoROoynDY/mqdefault.jpg)
I’d never drill the lower control arm for a piece of plastic, i suppose that will weaken it somewhat.
As an automotive cad designer never never never drill a structural part such a control arm, FEA analysis are done on these parts to make sure they are strong enough as is. Making a hole can create a stress concentration area around the hole. Basically a crack can originate around the hole and expand outwards. For example this is common on drilled rotors.
The fix to stop a crack from running is to drill a hole at the end of the crack as a stress reliever. You will need to chamfer both sides of the hole and radius it too. If it was cast iron you'd drill it and hard pin it.
Nice man really creative idea, I wanna do this to my 86 now lol
Sorry to say this but this is probably not going to work, especially in a track situation. You need to focus the flow of air not onto the brake disc face but into the center section of the back side of the rotor so that the flow of air goes into and through the passages (veins) between the rotor plates. That's what cools and reduces heat soak, what your doing is just cooling the face of one side of the rotor and will probably end up warping the rotor due to a heat imbalance.
Have had this on my car for a while and no issues with warping after 20+ track days.
Which direction is the vehicle going? hopefully it's going forward and the air off the duct is going towards the brake rotor. The location off the inner end of the duct is in the general location of the hub and thus the air is going where required. The veins in the rotor go in at the hub area and sweep back at the periphery of the rotor. The factory dust shield is louvered in the area he is removing to aid in getting more airflow. The only way you could get more air there is to run round flex duct and have a hole in the dust shield with a flange and the ducting clamped to it.
I have these on my 2010 Cayman S because they are a bit better than the standard ones and I've also got the upper ducts as I have airflow through the radiator and can utilize it. The only thing I noticed is you didn't (mildly) chamfer and radius the drill holes before installing the threaded inserts. Just keep a check on the backside of the lower control arm 👍.
Sick video dude. Helped explain it a lot and high quality install.
Nice and neat, great work.
Can you post what the part number is and/or where they can be bought from?
David S bump
Left: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QB73GN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Right: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GJ9EH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nicely done!!!!bro
That has to be the cheapest available part for any Porsche.
Porsche owner here. And yes!!! Lol
Not true. I once bought a split washer for 48 cents.
Thanks for the video.
Did you check temps before and after or notice any difference?
Never heard of anyone checking temps on brakes, only the usual "Did you get brake fade?"
@@JonnyBarajas I mean before and after on a race track to show they are working at dissipating heat. Could use infrared thermoter and point it at the rotor with duct blocked and then again without it blocked to see the difference
@@reviewcrewforyou I could try that once I get one.
Brakes heating up slowing down all of that 200 horse power ??
At least the track FRSbrz owners, they drive like Miata drivers; ring out the power they got, brake absolutely late. Like tomorrow, next week-late braking.
And yeah, spec Miata/lowhp-lowweight cars will whip bimmers/mustangs/ect at the track just by ignoring fear into corners
Won't this direct grit and crap off the track right into the calipers and pads?
In a 130k miles, it hasn't harmed my Porsche. I'm just now upgrading to the GT3 version. More air flow onto the pads and rotors can't be a bad thing.