Good video! This is one of the most infuriating aspects of a "performance" street car. They will run a HUGE rotor and calipers to combat heat fade and get enough torque to stop, but they never have adequate cooling except some deflectors and some ducting (ie C7 ZR1) or put on a very pricey CCB/CCM setup. I would think for unsprung weight and rotational mass reduction, the OEMs would rather run a smaller brake and provide more cooling which also reduces the cost of those huge brakes. But then, I'm a track guy and they don't really build sports cars for prolonged track use, regardless of what they claim. Besides, the Cars and Coffee crowd ignorantly fawn over huge rotors on their sports cars.
Right on brother, it is amazing what you can achieve on track with stock rotors, track pads, 660 fluids, proper ductwork and brake management driving technique. Especially with todays cars stability aids that keep using the brakes in the background
Have a friend who tracks a 172 rs, uses ebc pads with oem bosch discs, the car has no brake fade whatsoever, although, its a light car, with a bit more power than stock, it works like a charm, simple and oem setup worthy of driving on a daily basis
Can't thank you guys enough for always coming out with some extremely useful content. You guys have had great influence in the direction my project has taken.
Interesting how you mention having an open rim design to help with the hot air to escape (to all of us this seems the most logical LOL). This is the opposite to the old school turbo fin rim design. It would be interesting to see the difference in temperature with complete opposite rim designs using the infared camera
Anyone reading this with an old commy ute VZ down. Change your load sensing valve with an aeroflow load proportioning valve. Will save your life from the one wheel kick of death.
Yes it's essentially single use to help you tune your brake system, not something that you reference all the time. If you want constant data there are sensors for that - Taz.
@@hpa101 Some how RUclips does no longer send me email for reply’s I receive. I’m trying to set up a first time track day between my friends that have quick cars. That heat reactive paint will be worth the money. Data without a computer. 🇦🇺😎🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🍀🍀🤓
I know this is a car channel and i had a doubt regarding motorcycle. So I'm having braking issues like there's brake pressure but there like no brake grip. The caliper and master are radial and i have steel lines with abs. So there's no issues with respect to brake pressure but there's i guess brake fade. Also in using sintered brake pads which are new so i have no clue what's wrong. The disc is within factory spec and actually i upgraded my master cylinder from 13mm axial to 17 mm radial. It worked fine for 6 months and then suddenly these issues. Using dot 5.1 brake fluid. Tried dot 4 same issue. So I'm clueless.
Do the pads or disc look glazed? Not all pads are equal either and there are different types of materials which behave differently. I can only assume as there is little info here but if I was you I would talk to you parts supplier about this - Taz.
@@hpa101 yes it does look glazed. I asked 3 dealers about the issue and everyone had different opinions. None sounded like they're sure what's going on. I rebuild my caliper but it's fine. No leaks and i built it back to spec. I also initially noticed that after riding even without agressive braking the lever would move a bit out. Few mm. But i could notice it and it does get a bit more firm..my guess is the disc maybe contacting the pads or something and heating up causing brake fade. Last year i had an accident and i remember hitting the brakes as hard as i could and the brake pressure was there and it was good but it was like as if no friction on the disc and pads at all. Also if i upgraded temporarily to a 2 mm bigger master then it improves the braking situation slightly. So I'm clueless. As of now I'm running a teflon steel line cause rubber steel line i had mostly had brittle black powder coming out everytime i bled the brakes.
@@kevinpinheiro2485 not sure if this is possible on bikes but have you ever tried to bleed your abs pump? I dont really have any experience with bikes but i have seen this a few times that somehow air got stuck in the abs pump itself
![16kgs EXTRA Weight 🙈 | Flat Floor Construction And Testing Plan [#UPDATE 304]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JgkPxdpocVs/mqdefault.jpg)
![Your OEM Brakes Suck | Start Learning HOW To Improve Them [#TECHTALK]](/img/1.gif)
Take $25 USD off ANY HP Academy course with this coupon: RUclips25
Enroll now: hpcdmy.co/25offytc - Taz 👨🏻
Good video! This is one of the most infuriating aspects of a "performance" street car. They will run a HUGE rotor and calipers to combat heat fade and get enough torque to stop, but they never have adequate cooling except some deflectors and some ducting (ie C7 ZR1) or put on a very pricey CCB/CCM setup. I would think for unsprung weight and rotational mass reduction, the OEMs would rather run a smaller brake and provide more cooling which also reduces the cost of those huge brakes. But then, I'm a track guy and they don't really build sports cars for prolonged track use, regardless of what they claim. Besides, the Cars and Coffee crowd ignorantly fawn over huge rotors on their sports cars.
Huge brakes look impressive and have more visual "pop" - it's harder to sell cooling upgrades to most people, especially at the factory level
Right on brother, it is amazing what you can achieve on track with stock rotors, track pads, 660 fluids, proper ductwork and brake management driving technique. Especially with todays cars stability aids that keep using the brakes in the background
one of the best and most informative yt channels!!
Have a friend who tracks a 172 rs, uses ebc pads with oem bosch discs, the car has no brake fade whatsoever, although, its a light car, with a bit more power than stock, it works like a charm, simple and oem setup worthy of driving on a daily basis
Can't thank you guys enough for always coming out with some extremely useful content. You guys have had great influence in the direction my project has taken.
This is so great to hear. Glad we could help. - Ben :)
Watching this video again…
Good advice regarding having as straight as possible brake duct tubing.
Low speed flow counts for everything.🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🍀🍀😎
Interesting how you mention having an open rim design to help with the hot air to escape (to all of us this seems the most logical LOL). This is the opposite to the old school turbo fin rim design. It would be interesting to see the difference in temperature with complete opposite rim designs using the infared camera
This is a great idea if there is the space for it.
Anyone reading this with an old commy ute VZ down. Change your load sensing valve with an aeroflow load proportioning valve. Will save your life from the one wheel kick of death.
Can someone please let me know what the part number/name is for that low profile/constant diameter plastic piece at ~ 4:00
This is what we got it from: www.verus-engineering.com/shop/a0037a-brake-cooling-kit-brz-frs-gt86-354#attr= - Taz.
Paint looks good… for one track… re-apply between large ambient temperature changes. 🤓
Yes it's essentially single use to help you tune your brake system, not something that you reference all the time. If you want constant data there are sensors for that - Taz.
@@hpa101
Some how RUclips does no longer send me email for reply’s I receive.
I’m trying to set up a first time track day between my friends that have quick cars.
That heat reactive paint will be worth the money.
Data without a computer. 🇦🇺😎🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🍀🍀🤓
Any tests done with electrical fans?
I know this is a car channel and i had a doubt regarding motorcycle. So I'm having braking issues like there's brake pressure but there like no brake grip. The caliper and master are radial and i have steel lines with abs. So there's no issues with respect to brake pressure but there's i guess brake fade. Also in using sintered brake pads which are new so i have no clue what's wrong. The disc is within factory spec and actually i upgraded my master cylinder from 13mm axial to 17 mm radial. It worked fine for 6 months and then suddenly these issues. Using dot 5.1 brake fluid. Tried dot 4 same issue. So I'm clueless.
Do the pads or disc look glazed?
Not all pads are equal either and there are different types of materials which behave differently.
I can only assume as there is little info here but if I was you I would talk to you parts supplier about this - Taz.
@@hpa101 yes it does look glazed. I asked 3 dealers about the issue and everyone had different opinions. None sounded like they're sure what's going on. I rebuild my caliper but it's fine. No leaks and i built it back to spec. I also initially noticed that after riding even without agressive braking the lever would move a bit out. Few mm. But i could notice it and it does get a bit more firm..my guess is the disc maybe contacting the pads or something and heating up causing brake fade. Last year i had an accident and i remember hitting the brakes as hard as i could and the brake pressure was there and it was good but it was like as if no friction on the disc and pads at all. Also if i upgraded temporarily to a 2 mm bigger master then it improves the braking situation slightly. So I'm clueless. As of now I'm running a teflon steel line cause rubber steel line i had mostly had brittle black powder coming out everytime i bled the brakes.
@@kevinpinheiro2485 Do you have ABS on your bike?
@@daniellay9198 yeah. Abs is there default.
@@kevinpinheiro2485 not sure if this is possible on bikes but have you ever tried to bleed your abs pump? I dont really have any experience with bikes but i have seen this a few times that somehow air got stuck in the abs pump itself
Why do i keep hearing (ear 👂) and (Eria) ??