My NC has bigger front rotors than my Dakota R/T. I've managed to make the brakes squishy in the Miata; the Dakota has seen flickering orange flames on the pads. So thanks, Keith, for the tech tips to improve my Dakota. Lol
I don't have a miata but I've got a mr2 spyder and that 2nd duct that was shown looks like it'll somewhat fit my 02 stock bumper since I have a inlet that air goes in and does nothing.
So I’m curious about using this same setup style but for an improved intake snorkel on a ND2. BBR has their version of it, do you think it would actually flow more fresh air?
Hmm, I guess I wouldn't put brake ducts on a street car and what type of filter are you thinking? I guess I'm not getting it sorry. I'm sure there are some outliers for ducting though.
No worries. You are correct on the filter. It'll be just be to reduce dust and other debris from entering the wheel hub area. Thanks for answering my question.
I've heard anecdotal accounts from other drivers that when they got the right brake rotors (72 vane iirc) they no longer needed brake ducting on track.
Rotors can only move the air that's already there, they can't bring in cold air from elsewhere. If a car is just barely overheating the brakes, you might get away with a rotor change to a magic rotor. But they're no replacement for a strong flow of ambient air.
What are your thoughts on ceramic coating the brake calipers? I'm not a Miata owner, just bought a BMW 135i with some bolt ons & stage 2+ tune. I just assembled my blast cabinet and will be forging my own powdercoating/Cerakote oven. I'm thinking of Cerakoting them instead of powdercoating them. It's real good at the whole temperature thing. I'm going to use a Cerakote piston formula to coat the dome of my pistons & another high temp formula for the combustion chambers, ports, valves & stems...
If you're teetering on the edge of thermal capacity, I'd say it's worth it. If you're not, it's not worth your time/money unless you just want it for the cool factor.
Hi from Spain. I want to install a ducting for brakes but I have the Racing Beat nose. Do you know some duct like the 3D R-package version but for RacingBeat nose?
Good question! Since we're only talking about a little bit of water unless you plan to forge rivers, the water will rise in temp the closer it gets to the rotor and once there, the difference won't be enough to cause issue with the hot rotor. If you're not able to keep the pads in their temp range due to cold weather or rain, plug or reduce the duct inlet.
Hey Keith....totally off subject. You have a skid plate surrounding the rear diff and exhaust. Was this DIY or is there someone making it? I have a Getrag diff.
This car was originally built to do tarmac rally, so it has a well-armored underside. Most of the skid plates have been removed but that one is still there. It was a DIY job based on a 2001-05 rear subframe brace with UHMW sliders.
If you are trying to reach a certain temperature, you can use Tempilac paint to measure how hot they’re getting. Or you can rely on driver feedback - it’s not unusual to adjust brake duct openings in cold temperatures. It’s usually fairly easy to tell if you’re overheating the pads.
@@FlyinMiataVideo thanks for the info. i am running running wilwood 4 piston front and rear, plain rotors , and dtc-60 in front and dtc-30 in rear with no brake booster and adjustable pedal ratio, srf fluid. according to hawk these are the temp specs for the pads below.. what temps paint do you suggest ? where do you place it ? thanks very much for your time.. dtc-60 400-1600 Deg F Operating Temperature Range 600-1200 Deg F Optimal Temperature Range dtc-30 100-1200 Deg F Operating Temperature Range 100-800 Deg F Optimal Temperature Range
@@difusekitty3 Put the paint on the outer edge of the rotor where it won't get scraped off. Like this: images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/57ec4006ebbd1ad047055b4f/1501456289776-YQHOMZX9G7D32VZJXIYT/image-asset.jpeg It's far more likely you're going to overheat pads than have them too cool, so I'd choose some of the paints that are near the upper edge of the optimal temp for the pads. The lowest temp for the paint is 850, so we'd use that on the rear to make sure they're not overheating. On the front, probably 1000, 1100 and 1200 would be good. There's a 1300 as well but if you hit 1200 you already know you're past optimum.
It might be worth it to make a little grate to keep little critters and debris out
My NC has bigger front rotors than my Dakota R/T. I've managed to make the brakes squishy in the Miata; the Dakota has seen flickering orange flames on the pads.
So thanks, Keith, for the tech tips to improve my Dakota. Lol
I don't have a miata but I've got a mr2 spyder and that 2nd duct that was shown looks like it'll somewhat fit my 02 stock bumper since I have a inlet that air goes in and does nothing.
We've never tested fitment on an MR2, so we aren't too sure.
So I’m curious about using this same setup style but for an improved intake snorkel on a ND2. BBR has their version of it, do you think it would actually flow more fresh air?
For a daily driver in AZ with duct cooling, would a filter be wise to use a filter on the inlet of the break duct system?
Hmm, I guess I wouldn't put brake ducts on a street car and what type of filter are you thinking? I guess I'm not getting it sorry. I'm sure there are some outliers for ducting though.
No worries. You are correct on the filter. It'll be just be to reduce dust and other debris from entering the wheel hub area.
Thanks for answering my question.
I've heard anecdotal accounts from other drivers that when they got the right brake rotors (72 vane iirc) they no longer needed brake ducting on track.
Rotors can only move the air that's already there, they can't bring in cold air from elsewhere. If a car is just barely overheating the brakes, you might get away with a rotor change to a magic rotor. But they're no replacement for a strong flow of ambient air.
Great video. Thank you 😊
Glad it was helpful!
What are your thoughts on ceramic coating the brake calipers? I'm not a Miata owner, just bought a BMW 135i with some bolt ons & stage 2+ tune. I just assembled my blast cabinet and will be forging my own powdercoating/Cerakote oven. I'm thinking of Cerakoting them instead of powdercoating them. It's real good at the whole temperature thing. I'm going to use a Cerakote piston formula to coat the dome of my pistons & another high temp formula for the combustion chambers, ports, valves & stems...
If you're teetering on the edge of thermal capacity, I'd say it's worth it. If you're not, it's not worth your time/money unless you just want it for the cool factor.
Wouldn't a heat resistant coating on the outside of a hot item keep it hot?
Hi from Spain.
I want to install a ducting for brakes but I have the Racing Beat nose. Do you know some duct like the 3D R-package version but for RacingBeat nose?
We don't know of any. You might want to check with Racing Beat to see if there are any ducts available, otherwise you'll have to make your own.
How would brake duct perform in the rain tho, my thoughts are they will cause the rotor too warp from the water reaching it with the added cooling
Good question! Since we're only talking about a little bit of water unless you plan to forge rivers, the water will rise in temp the closer it gets to the rotor and once there, the difference won't be enough to cause issue with the hot rotor. If you're not able to keep the pads in their temp range due to cold weather or rain, plug or reduce the duct inlet.
Have you tested naca ducts that would be located on the hood? would they generate enough air flow? I see them on the Porsche GT4 RS
We haven't. The routing would be pretty bad to get cooling down to the rotors but it is a high pressure zone.
Hey Keith....totally off subject. You have a skid plate surrounding the rear diff and exhaust. Was this DIY or is there someone making it? I have a Getrag diff.
This car was originally built to do tarmac rally, so it has a well-armored underside. Most of the skid plates have been removed but that one is still there. It was a DIY job based on a 2001-05 rear subframe brace with UHMW sliders.
Do you guys make duct kits for SC400 soarer??
Just the Miata, sorry.
Is it better to duct cooling to the front brake rotor or the caliper?
The center of the rotor. More details in the video!
Thanks for the advice. I will change from trying to cool the caliper on my race car.
No NC solution? Thanks
Well...not from us but it looks like AWR has a kit. store.awrracing.com/2013-2015-mx5-nc-front-brake-cooling-duct-kit/
@@FlyinMiataVideo Thank you for the reply and link.
Great generic introduction. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
race pads need to get to the proper temp to work correctly.
so how do you determine that additional cooling is necessary?
If you are trying to reach a certain temperature, you can use Tempilac paint to measure how hot they’re getting. Or you can rely on driver feedback - it’s not unusual to adjust brake duct openings in cold temperatures. It’s usually fairly easy to tell if you’re overheating the pads.
@@FlyinMiataVideo thanks for the info.
i am running running wilwood 4 piston front and rear, plain rotors , and dtc-60 in front and dtc-30 in rear with no brake booster and adjustable pedal ratio, srf fluid.
according to hawk these are the temp specs for the pads below..
what temps paint do you suggest ? where do you place it ?
thanks very much for your time..
dtc-60
400-1600 Deg F Operating Temperature Range
600-1200 Deg F Optimal Temperature Range
dtc-30
100-1200 Deg F Operating Temperature Range
100-800 Deg F Optimal Temperature Range
@@difusekitty3 Put the paint on the outer edge of the rotor where it won't get scraped off. Like this: images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/57ec4006ebbd1ad047055b4f/1501456289776-YQHOMZX9G7D32VZJXIYT/image-asset.jpeg
It's far more likely you're going to overheat pads than have them too cool, so I'd choose some of the paints that are near the upper edge of the optimal temp for the pads. The lowest temp for the paint is 850, so we'd use that on the rear to make sure they're not overheating. On the front, probably 1000, 1100 and 1200 would be good. There's a 1300 as well but if you hit 1200 you already know you're past optimum.