This video has been really useful although when I did this job on my car I could only fill the gearbox up with 1.5ltr of fluid before it overflowed, but once I started the engine it allowed me to put the remaining 1.5ltrs of fluid in before it overflowed again.My gears are a lot smoother and they don't hold in for so long between changes.Many thanks
If you want a full flush you can use the cooler lines. I just did it with a friend on an Opel Vectra with the AF-40 box. WARNING: I'm not responsible for any damage done to you, your box or your engine using this guide. Use with caution and care. Raise the car. Remove the gearbox to engine mounting/support to get to the cooler lines. Disconnect the cooler lines from the box (the cooler lines are the hoses going to the radiator.). You have 2 options: Air compressor filling or Gravity filling. Air compressor method (modify as you like. This is just so you get the idea): Get a 8L container with cap and pour all your ATF into it. Drill a 12mm hole into the cap of the container and insert a 12mm hose into the cap. This other end of the hose will go into the upper cooler line hole on the box. Drill a small hole into the same container to be used to push air into the container and push oil into the box. Insert a 12mm hose into the lower hole and use a 2L bottle to receive the used oil coming out of the box. Now start the car and do it by step of 2 liters: when the box pump gets 2 liters out stop the engine and run the compressor to put 2L into the box. You can do it with a 1L step if you want. When you see ne oil coming out you're done. Just make sure you put the same amount you got out. You can blow air through the radiator lines to get out the used oil still in the radiator. Add the amount you got out of the radiator to the box. Reconnect the cooler lines to the box. You can check the level to make sure. Gravity fill: Get a 8L measure graduated bucket and pour all your ATF into it. Drill a 12mm hole and add a plastic faucet valve so you can control the flow. Put this bucket above the gearbox level so oil will flow down with gravity. Connect a 12mm hose to this valve and insert it into the upper hole on the box. Keep the valve closed for the moment. Get another 8L measure graduated bucket. Insert another 12mm hose into the lower hole on the box and direct it into this bucket. When ready open the valve on the upper bucket and start the engine. Monitor the oil level in the two buckets. If level on the lower bucket is speeding up stop the engine and let the upper bucket level catch up with the lower one. When you see ne oil coming out you're done. Just make sure you put the same amount you got out. You can blow air through the radiator lines to get out the used oil still in the radiator. Add the amount you got out of the radiator to the box. Reconnect the cooler lines to the box. You can check the level to make sure. If you have poured in the same amount you got out your level should be ok.
Great videoand tutorial. There are many Opel services which claim that the oil in automatic transmission dont have to be changee. Didnt know that Astra H and Volvo XC90 have same automatic transmission. Thank you
Hi, there are a number of videos on RUclips for changing the oil of TF89SC and most of them don't mention the step of the final top-up. I feel it is needed, as without it the gearbox doesn't feel very well, so I intend definitely to add at least half a litter after I fix the level from below. I am just wondering why is the step so often omitted...
I think because fluid is thin compared to when it's cold it will be thick so if the fluid is warm and you drain it, it will drain very smoothly and some debris may come out too
Where did you get info on amount of oil added at the end? I'm asking because Volvo procedure is to warm ATF to 50°C and remove check screw(small) wait till oil drip. Put back screw and that is it. Opel for Astra J/K say warm ATF to 70-80°C, remove chack screw, wait till oil drip. Put back screw and add 0.4-0.5L of ATF.
The only way to change all the oil is by doing it the "old way": 1. Drain all the oil you can through the bottom bolt. 2. Poor 7.5 liters of oil in the gearbox. 3. Release the output hose of the gearbox oil cooler; put a pan below. 4. Run the engine and shift between all the positions of the gear lever keeping each position 2 or 3 seconds. The oil will start to go out from the released hose; first filthy and after 25 or 30 seconds it will become clean. 5. Fix the hose and control the oil level as explained.
Car was rough shifting. I only got 2.5 litres of gearbox oil out, I've found a small amount of oil around the cooler hoses.....think its had a slow leak for a while....
I only got 2.7 litres out, I was hearing a high frequency sound at low gears and high RPM 3000-4000, and some rough shifting after long trips, all solved after the oil change, in cold added 3.2L Mannol AG55
@JoJanDiezel I have to say in my experience it's not so important the ambient temperature. The first time i performed the oil change, the temperature was about 18-25°C, I had only started the engine to move the car into to my front wheel lifters, less than 5 minutes of running motor, and because of the lifters the car was not flat and the front wheels were about 30-40 from the ground. Since I bought 20 liters of Mannol AG55, I have performed 2 times more the g-oil change together with the motor oil change, and got every time 3.2 liters +/- 50cc, quite consistent, even when once I changed it at freezing cold 0-5 °C or hot summer 25-28°C the output was basically the same. Always I have done it after the car has been stopped for +16 hours and running for only for 2-5 minutes to place ir on the lifters.
Hi thanks for a very informative video I just have two questions My Alfa 159 has the transmission I’m have a knock when I shift from park to reverse and drive and also from drive to reverse and park.when I’m drive I feel the gearing is not smooth on a up shift and down shift.Do think a oil change will be a solution to this problem. Secondly what type of oil does this transmission take can u tell the specs please Thanks in advance
Yes, it has, but it is not under normal maintenance procedure but it can be bought on the internet and replaced if you want. Why? Since this transmission has access to internal parts from the front side (behind coolers) you need disassembly a lot of parts to get there.
Hi, if the gearbox code are same , can it be fit to another make with same code ? For example , I have insignia 2011 but, if you search as specificly for Insignia then prices are really high, but with but if I search f40 80sc gearbox, then I can find much cheaper prices.. My question , say if I buy f80 80sc come out from different make, can it be fit in to my car ? Thanks in advance
Wrong bolt shown in video.......please do not follow this It will fucked your car up Bolt is closer to the sticker and it is a hex fill plug It does not need a t55 or t50 Just a 10mm hex Alan key 🔑
This video has been really useful although when I did this job on my car I could only fill the gearbox up with 1.5ltr of fluid before it overflowed, but once I started the engine it allowed me to put the remaining 1.5ltrs of fluid in before it overflowed again.My gears are a lot smoother and they don't hold in for so long between changes.Many thanks
That same solution, after engine on i filled remaining 1.5l. Opel Insignia A20DTH
If you want a full flush you can use the cooler lines.
I just did it with a friend on an Opel Vectra with the AF-40 box.
WARNING: I'm not responsible for any damage done to you, your box or your engine using this guide. Use with caution and care.
Raise the car.
Remove the gearbox to engine mounting/support to get to the cooler lines.
Disconnect the cooler lines from the box (the cooler lines are the hoses going to the radiator.).
You have 2 options: Air compressor filling or Gravity filling.
Air compressor method (modify as you like. This is just so you get the idea):
Get a 8L container with cap and pour all your ATF into it.
Drill a 12mm hole into the cap of the container and insert a 12mm hose into the cap. This other end of the hose will go into the upper cooler line hole on the box.
Drill a small hole into the same container to be used to push air into the container and push oil into the box.
Insert a 12mm hose into the lower hole and use a 2L bottle to receive the used oil coming out of the box.
Now start the car and do it by step of 2 liters: when the box pump gets 2 liters out stop the engine and run the compressor to put 2L into the box. You can do it with a 1L step if you want.
When you see ne oil coming out you're done.
Just make sure you put the same amount you got out. You can blow air through the radiator lines to get out the used oil still in the radiator. Add the amount you got out of the radiator to the box.
Reconnect the cooler lines to the box. You can check the level to make sure.
Gravity fill:
Get a 8L measure graduated bucket and pour all your ATF into it. Drill a 12mm hole and add a plastic faucet valve so you can control the flow.
Put this bucket above the gearbox level so oil will flow down with gravity.
Connect a 12mm hose to this valve and insert it into the upper hole on the box. Keep the valve closed for the moment.
Get another 8L measure graduated bucket.
Insert another 12mm hose into the lower hole on the box and direct it into this bucket.
When ready open the valve on the upper bucket and start the engine. Monitor the oil level in the two buckets.
If level on the lower bucket is speeding up stop the engine and let the upper bucket level catch up with the lower one.
When you see ne oil coming out you're done.
Just make sure you put the same amount you got out. You can blow air through the radiator lines to get out the used oil still in the radiator.
Add the amount you got out of the radiator to the box.
Reconnect the cooler lines to the box. You can check the level to make sure.
If you have poured in the same amount you got out your level should be ok.
Great videoand tutorial.
There are many Opel services which claim that the oil in automatic transmission dont have to be changee.
Didnt know that Astra H and Volvo XC90 have same automatic transmission.
Thank you
Hi, there are a number of videos on RUclips for changing the oil of TF89SC and most of them don't mention the step of the final top-up. I feel it is needed, as without it the gearbox doesn't feel very well, so I intend definitely to add at least half a litter after I fix the level from below. I am just wondering why is the step so often omitted...
It seems very helpful and I will give it a go on my Holden vectra car. Thanks.
Hi, first of all thanks for the explanation. Why should be changed in 70-80 C ?
I think because fluid is thin compared to when it's cold it will be thick so if the fluid is warm and you drain it, it will drain very smoothly and some debris may come out too
Thankyou for the clear instructions
Where did you get info on amount of oil added at the end?
I'm asking because Volvo procedure is to warm ATF to 50°C and remove check screw(small) wait till oil drip. Put back screw and that is it.
Opel for Astra J/K say warm ATF to 70-80°C, remove chack screw, wait till oil drip. Put back screw and add 0.4-0.5L of ATF.
But would this procedure change all the oil in the transmission?
No, it wouldn't. I believe you would need to repeat it a few times.
The only way to change all the oil is by doing it the "old way":
1. Drain all the oil you can through the bottom bolt.
2. Poor 7.5 liters of oil in the gearbox.
3. Release the output hose of the gearbox oil cooler; put a pan below.
4. Run the engine and shift between all the positions of the gear lever keeping each position 2 or 3 seconds. The oil will start to go out from the released hose; first filthy and after 25 or 30 seconds it will become clean.
5. Fix the hose and control the oil level as explained.
@@Weimar76
please help what oil to use for am6 fitted in 2012 peugeot 508? I live in Jordan and we do not have aw1 we havs dexron 3 and 6
.
If your car fits this same gear box, the oil it uses is Febi 29934; you can find it in Autodoc.
Car was rough shifting. I only got 2.5 litres of gearbox oil out, I've found a small amount of oil around the cooler hoses.....think its had a slow leak for a while....
I only got 2.7 litres out, I was hearing a high frequency sound at low gears and high RPM 3000-4000, and some rough shifting after long trips, all solved after the oil change, in cold added 3.2L Mannol AG55
@@carlosmedina5883 how much was the ambient temp during change, when you did oil change, do you remember?
@JoJanDiezel I have to say in my experience it's not so important the ambient temperature. The first time i performed the oil change, the temperature was about 18-25°C, I had only started the engine to move the car into to my front wheel lifters, less than 5 minutes of running motor, and because of the lifters the car was not flat and the front wheels were about 30-40 from the ground.
Since I bought 20 liters of Mannol AG55, I have performed 2 times more the g-oil change together with the motor oil change, and got every time 3.2 liters +/- 50cc, quite consistent, even when once I changed it at freezing cold 0-5 °C or hot summer 25-28°C the output was basically the same. Always I have done it after the car has been stopped for +16 hours and running for only for 2-5 minutes to place ir on the lifters.
Hi thanks for a very informative video I just have two questions
My Alfa 159 has the transmission I’m have a knock when I shift from park to reverse and drive and also from drive to reverse and park.when I’m drive I feel the gearing is not smooth on a up shift and down shift.Do think a oil change will be a solution to this problem.
Secondly what type of oil does this transmission take can u tell the specs please
Thanks in advance
is that thesame gearbox as in 2008 Saab 93 Aero TTid 6 speed auto?
I believe it is
are you having trouble with your transmission shifts?
Thank you very much for information great full video
good video. i think this is the same box in my 2011 s60 t6 :)
Very good video, thank you
any ideea what size is the part number 1? level control bolt? im trying to add the fluid there since the top doesnt open anymore..
Do these transmissions have a replaceable filter?
Yes, it has, but it is not under normal maintenance procedure but it can be bought on the internet and replaced if you want. Why? Since this transmission has access to internal parts from the front side (behind coolers) you need disassembly a lot of parts to get there.
Please tell me Which size of torx on top and allen on the bottom bolts needed to change fluid
Jacob Latosi it is not onligatory torx.
Hi, if the gearbox code are same , can it be fit to another make with same code ? For example , I have insignia 2011 but, if you search as specificly for Insignia then prices are really high, but with but if I search f40 80sc gearbox, then I can find much cheaper prices.. My question , say if I buy f80 80sc come out from different make, can it be fit in to my car ? Thanks in advance
Bravo
Fantastic video !
how much oildo you need at first it says 7 l. and then 3 ?
overall 7L there, but during change only part of oil is changed = 3-3.5L.
hello, Where have you buy these rings ? on which website. please.
Saab 93 6 gear automatic is af40 too
... and Lancia Delta 1.8 Di
thanks, Video would be perfect if the size of the tools would also be specified
Thanks
hi,can anyone tell me the right temperature for the tf-71 sc citroen bluehdi 120hp,for the corect level off oil?
أريد اعرف كيفيه استخدام فيدا الفولفو
Good and tnhanks
Hi, where can I buy level control bolt
What size is the hex key required ? Anyone Know please ?
spot on ......thanks
Not happy with the timing too be able too read the words and study it
Meriva b 2010 looks like have the same box
... and Lancia Delta 1.8 Di
... and Lancia Delta 1.8 Di
Wrong bolt shown in video.......please do not follow this
It will fucked your car up
Bolt is closer to the sticker and it is a hex fill plug
It does not need a t55 or t50
Just a 10mm hex Alan key 🔑