love your videos, as I'm a nuts and bolts type guy, it is a pleasure to watch a methodical and meticulous person accomplish such work.....really looking forward to the splash
As always your attention to detail is quite amazing. Hull is looking great. Cleats as well. Had to laugh that the "professionals" don't know about or worry about the electrical potential of the SD. Since I had a 40 foot boat sink due to electrolysis, I can attest the importance of this! I think painting the chain locker should be Ava's job. She can fit in there nicely.
Galvanic corrosion is a very real and destructive force, we found that out the hard and very expensive way on our aluminum future restaurant boat! Good for you sticking to what you believe is right despite the “professionals.”
The deck fitting for lifting the engine could also be an access point for use in case of an engine fire. You could use it to insert a fire extinguisher nozzle. Thanks for another great video, Mads.
Mads, every time you say, "I'm no expert" I get a chuckle. Based on what I've seen in your videos versus working with some "experts" I would trust your attention to detail and thoroughness over many of the "experts" any day. Also, I want to print and package the comments sections of your videos because there is more experience and knowledge in this comments section than I've ever found in a manual. It seems like the story doesn't change - when we are working on our own boats, we do a much better job than when a "pro" is working on our boats. Love the videos!
As a pro I can not second that, of course: the real expert people regularly do send away customers not prepared to pay for their work though, which makes for a market with some pros and a lotta half-cheap bodgers surrounding the experts. Problem is, the same people not prepared accepting a pro-price in the first place still come back and try to drain knowledge and sometimes even work off the very one they found "too pricy" before, while the dire need of deconstructing what was bodged meanwhile even *adds* reasonably to the price given prior, obviously. So it is very correct to say "You can not afford to buy cheap" when it comes to specialized pro work. That's the same as You'll have with "cheap tooling": buy cheap tools, ruin those together with Your workpiece, buy the real tools together with the right tools You need to repair what was ruined before, and add the price for the parts you can't even repair and do have to replace anyway to all the beforementioned. See? Go get a real pro and be proud having afforded the real deal in the first go. I still do second the idea of printing and packaging Mads' comment section - lots of very good advice down here.
@@manfredschmalbach9023 - Some fair points. That being said, however.. all that "professional" means is, "I get paid to do this." It does *not* mean "I'm an expert at this." Which is why I'll be building my own boat. That way, I know that *every single job* was done as well as possible, and that nothing critical was rushed through by an apprentice who just wanted to finish early on a Friday afternoon so as to get down the pub, or got put together by someone not paying proper attention due to a hangover on a Monday morning.
@@Garryck-1 There's nothing to say against building Your own. It actually was my personal approach to build shit my own after I endured a buncha really really bad experiences with shit other people had built and sold. To me. Which taught me a lesson or two, in the end. I do my own brakes in my cars and motorcycles today, because I love my life, I build my own house-technique and my own heaters and sailing dinghis and repair/rebuild my own yachts because I want to know that shit is done the right way, wich would be my way, of course, for my shit, at least. Does that make me an expert? I do know some people I would give my yachts to repair/rebuild, I do know people I would give my houses to repair/rebuild, I even do know a person I would probably give a motorcycle of mine to repair before I drive it. Does that make THEM experts? Other people do pay me for designing and constructing, inspecting, overlooking or even actually building their shit. Is that what would make me an expert? Does You building Your own boat/car/motorcycle/house make You an expert? Would having a stamp and printed letter-paper, a membership of an officially approved club of experts and charging 500 quid an hour for having a look make me or You an expert? It's a question not so easy answered, I'm afraid. Cheers.
@@manfredschmalbach9023 - Fully agree with you, mate. My own method for choosing others to do certain tasks for me is generally based on some form of "how much skin do they have in the game?" For instance, you mention doing your own brakes, because it's YOUR life on the line if they fail. I apply much the same concept in picking, for example, a motor mechanic. I don't go for large operations, that might have half a dozen mechanics and an apprentice or two.. because they don't give a damn about you. There will always be plenty of other suckers walking through their doors. Instead, I look for a small one (or maybe two) man operation who, in conversation, seem to be knowledgeable. (They also need to have a decent reputation.) My reasoning is, the only thing that keeps bread on their table is their reputation. They can't afford to fuck up, or to fuck people over, because if they do, when word gets out, they're going to go hungry. So far, that approach has served me well.
As Håkan Billegren said: you are missing the other plastic bushing. These bushings will alligne the sail drive correctly and keep the bolts away from direct contact with the metal on the sail drive. A little bit of tape aroud the 4 bolts that don't have a bushing might also help.
Just for grins how about running the resistance test while the sail drive and engine are separated. This will establish a baseline and insure you are not chasing some ghost number or have a calibration issue or something going on with the test set.
This was my first thought as well. If you are getting a low resistance measurement with the SD and engine separated then maybe the engine is in contact with the copper coat.
Mads, before cutting the slot in the bottom of the bolts, thread on a nut loosely, make your slotted cut and remove the bolt, any burrs created by the grinder will be removed when you take off the nut before installing the bolt through the fitting making it easier to start the nut.
The engine is supposed to be isolated from the saildrive. The flywheel on the engine has a rubber doughnut bolted to it with the splined drive to the saildrive bonded in the centre of the doughnut. The bolts are sleeved to isolate from the saildrive and prevent the threads touching, with the plastic washers preventing the bolt head touching. So yes the threads contact the engine but the rest of the bolt is isolated from the saildrive. One possible contact path is if you have steel reinforced water hose from the saildrive inlet to the engine that can cause an electrical path via a tight hose, clamp at each end.
The plastic is only for preventing dissimilar metal contact. No need to replace any of it if not damaged. The drive coupler will always allow stray current to reach the saildrive...which is why one should do everything possible to prevent stray currents.
Good job checking the sail drive isolation. Without the sail drive being isolated from the engine your zincs will disappear rapidly. I have a Volvo D1-30 F. The boat sits in brackish water and I use a big fish zinc anode connected to the sail drive only. This saves the zinc anodes on the Sail Drive and protects the sail drive. I check the continuity between the sail drive and the engine regularly on my boat and there is no continuity. Good luck with the project. Miles
Since the SD is a cast aluminum housing, think of it as a large Zinc anode -- actually Aluminum is more electronegative than Zinc. In order for it to not act as the largest sacrificial anode on the boat it need s to be electrically isolated from all other metals that may be in contact with sea water. Thus no current can flow and corrosion will be minimized. The iron and copper parts of the engine are connected to sea water through the cooling water and electrical system. If the SD is not isolated from the engine, you have a complete circuit between dissimilar metals immersed in an electrolyte -- a shorted battery if you will. You all know what happens to a AA cell that is shorted of fully drained in your flash light -- they corrode and leak. I am sure Volvo included all necessary insulating connections between the engine and SD. The drive shaft, mating faces and bolts all need insulating material. To get to 100K ohms they must be clean, dry and possibly baked in the sun for a while. Any surface salt, salty old grease or absorbed water in the plastic insulators will give bad readings. As would any salt water soaked wood (currently dry or wet) the SD was bolted to. Once you get above a few ohms the connection is on longer a direct metal to metal contact but leakage form semi conducting surfaces. He is doing the correct process to locate the leakage by separating things. No dialectic grease or coating are going to work, first vibrations will punch through those. How long the casting will last is a function of how much current will flow. the higher the resistance the lower the current. It's a slow process but it runs 24/7 when ever she is in the water, running or not.
I've got a boat with a Zdrive, and often wonder the same. I am not sure if the engine to drive coupling is isolated or not. I'm no expert and would not know how to test. The Zdrive is aluminum AFAIK. :(
I've learned not to ask an electrical professor what he thought... "The electrical state of the atmosphere is mostly determined by atmospheric ions conducive to the said saildrive and the engines local. Their electrical/nonelectrical forces can cause the flow of conduction and convection currents that determine their spatial and temporal distributions at any place. 🤔 I'll wait for Mads hands-on explanation.
Mads, given the difference in metal between the engine and the sail drive, you are supplying a current with the voltmeter hence creating a battery. For giggles, could you supply the engine block with a small current and remeasure? Maybe use a few small batteries and some alligator clips? Have fun and thank you for your knowledge! Good job on the hull!
Love that idea of cutting a slot in the through bolts, like you Madds I’m always working on my own, thanks to the person who suggested this. Terry from down under
My suggestion with the sail drive is to use tef gel or some other barrier on all bolts connecting the drive with the engine. I would also test continuity between the sail drive and the ground on the engine starter as there may be an issue with that resistance reading.
When you are measuring Resistance and getting unexpected results make sure there is no stray DC voltage offsetting the measurement. I do think your measurements are good though. Don't forget to measure with the two separated. You never know what else is conducting.
Make sure you also check that the rudder shaft is isolated, there's a couple on RUclips that lost theirs due to galvanic corrosion of the shaft where the hull meets the rudder after a wire in the steering pedestal came loose and in contact with the cable steering system.
As a baseline, test the resistance while they are apart. Then test the resistance between the engine and output shaft, which should be electrically isolated by the donut on the flywheel.
I have done a couple of boat projects and I'm past the age where I could reasonably take on another one. So there is no rationale explanation for my watching you every Sunday except that they are so damn entertaining. You are rational and know how to tell a story. I hope you'll keep up the video feed when you and your lady take to the high seas. I am looking forward to that.
In English, matching the orientation of all the bolts or screw heads (even on a light switch panel) is called "regulating" the screws. It is a sign that a professional proudly did the job. Gunsmiths are famous for doing this, even though it usually means custom cutting the length of each screw to do that. Damned good trick on the cleat bolts!
From the care and maintenance, Volvo states: “Volvo Penta sail drives are designed to provide the sail boat owner with many years of trouble free boating enjoyment.There are two main components to the galvanic protection system on your Volvo Penta sail drive. First off, the entire sail drive is electrically isolated from the engine and engine grounding system. This isolation is accomplished by the use of plastic bushings, gaskets and washers in the sail drive mounting hardware. Never compromise this protection by placing any type of ship’s ground wire on the sail drive housing or mounting bolts. Don’t use wire wound hose in the water pickup system, and don’t use the sail drive as an SSB ground plane.“ Why? Because if the saildrive is grounded or connected to the electrical system, there is a risk that current is going to flow through it and damage parts of it (internal or most likely the prop). Now there are many zinc or magnesium sacrificial anodes to protect against galvanic corrosion, but this will not help if another component of the boat, i.e. the battery charger is leaking current to the ground (imposed current). The best way to avoid galvanic corrosion is to cut out paths for the electric current to flow! By using a simple digital meter, measure the resistance between these two parts, the meter should display -1 or infinity. If not you have a problem, current is allowed to flow from the grounding though your saildrive…
Really enjoy your series and have learned a lot. I painted my C&C 33 with Perfection about 7 year’s ago and it now needs a major repainting. Unfortunately Perfection Pro is not available in the US. I called Interlux about this and in reading between the lines the company will not make Pro available because they are protecting Allgrip. Unfortunately I will be using a non Interlux paint so I do not have to tip it out. I would love to see any comments you or your viewers have on this subject.
Before you redo the cockpit, I think an access hatch to the utility room behind the shower would be spiffy. a lifting set might even be be big enough to crawl through. Cheers!
We have to insulate the opposite drive end bearing on DC motors at work. I noticed on those bolts the threads aren’t covered. You might try wrapping a small piece of that plastic around the threads. Also if you know of an electric motor shop nearby you could see if they have any sheets of Nomex and you could make your own insulators. It comes it different thicknesses.
I just finished a binge watch from the initial video about Athena. (March 2016!) What an amazing journey and spectacular videos you have shared with us Mads. Thank you!
Lol I always love when I am done from working on my center console boats on a Sunday to come inside and relax and watch your new videos that you post every Sunday
I am an ABYC marine electrician, but only a few years of experience. To the best of my knowledge, both the engine and the sail drive should be grounded. All metal items exposed to the saltwater would need to be grounded including the seacocks. All of the corrosion would then make its way to zincs on the shaft/sail drive. would be
This channel is one of my favorite on RUclips. Mads your videos are both informative and entertaining, thank you for making them. Even though you have probably already solved your resistance issue between the engine and saildrive I had an observation. Even though the bolts that pass through the saildrive and into the engine have plastic washers on the heads there is still a path for conductivity through the bolt itself as the bolt threads are obviously touching the engine and the other end of the bolt could be touching the inside of the clearance hole on the saildrive. Unless the clearance holes on the saildrive are insulated to prevent the bolt from touching the saildrive metal, you can have a path for conductivity.
Insulating flange bolts also have sleeves around the outer diameter. if the OD of the bolt touches the sail drive housing then electrical contact is made. Just a little late no dout info. Cheers and the water awaits...
From the looks of it yes the plastic bits would be what Volvo is using to isolate the sail drive from the engine. The input shaft being coated with oil and grease may be able to isolate that part. But even you bolts have to have the plastic sleeves on them to keep them isolated. Sound like though it might be a good idea to make a long distance call back to the volvo factory and talk to the engineers ask them what was their intentions and then make a follow up video explaining it.
My engine is in roughly the same place as yours. To install / remove my engine a friend lent me a simple but great doo-hickey. Imagine a large C shape, made of three 600mm lengths of beefy angle iron, welded corners with strengthening gussets. The engine lifing eyes shakle to the bottom of the C, and a boom crane to the top tip of the C. You can then lift the engine up and slide forwards and backwards as far as your companion way / fixed dodger will allow. I could use it to lift my engine up through the companionway and place in the cockpit - it works a treat - sorry Mads, but IMHO its a more versatile solution and no holes in cockpit sole required.
Gotta say this was one of your best video's your devotion to capturing uncomfortable shots like installing the bow cleats is awesome!! keep up the great work Cheers
Having built aluminum boats for 15 years electrically isolating components from each other is an important step. Here are a few things I have learned. 1. As noted below, input shaft connectivity. I do not have a good solution as I have never installed a sail drive. 2. Fluke, or any other brand, of new/modern multimeters generally do not have the driving voltage to properly verify isolation. We have and continue to use a Simpson Analog Multimeter to verify electrical isolation between say a bronze strainer assembly and the aluminum hull (in my case). simpsonelectric.com/products/test-equipment/vom-multimeters/ 3. Not only do we isolate the mating surfaces but we also isolate the inside of the bolt hole. Depending on fit up the bolt may be in contact with the inside surface of the plate it is passing through and create an electrical path. We generally use shoulder washers. www.mcmaster.com/nylon-shoulder-washers/ Hope this helps. Scott
Scott Weiler - that’s why we use a Megger to determine insulation resistance, suitable for the task. Electricians use them. I wonder if the test specifications call for a specific resistance, but at what voltage? If it’s just resistance than fine, fluke meters have just a 1.5 v batt.
+1 for megger or any type of insulation tester. Best to know what voltage the manufacturer suggests testing at as well. The plastic isolation pieces look in good condition a good scrub will do wonders. You could also test the resistance from one side of the plastic to the other to see if it is the issue (lots of dirt on that plug). With the insulation tester you could run around the boat and check/verify the whole ground grid. Would be easy to do with the boat in the stripped down state.
Very interesting. Re: the comments. Not keen on sail drives. In the aviation industry, dissimilar metal corrosion is a big problem. We use a lot of Duralac. For instance we coat our screws and bolts with it also our lap joints. Rivets going through alclad sheet even promote corrosion.when water gets in. The sheet is a sandwich of Duralium with an outer coating of pure aluminium. Try coating the flange at the SD with duralac and coating the bolts as well. Or get a drive shaft instead.
Nothing can make up for the sin of misaligning the drinking water deck fill cap like Garret from Salt & Tar did after going through all the work of getting it aligned with the deck planks in the the dry fit stage -but messing it up after he put the adhesive-sealant on. Shoulda used butyl tape!
Never thought to mention grinding slot in bolts, my Grandfather showed me that decades ago. Not much sailing in Iowa, but took a sailing ship cruise, it was amazing hope to live long enough to do it again.
I hope you have more luck with black butyl than I've had. It was left by previous owner (brand 3M, sealant for windshield), and it stained like CRAZY. I couldn't tell when fresh, but after some time it left black marks, and I had to use huge quantities of mineral spirit / petrol / acetone (your choice) and paper towels to clean get rid of the marks.
I’m not sure you can completely isolate the sail drive from the engine due to the mechanical connection of the sail drive gear and the engine fly wheel but, I’m not a mechanic. However, in my work as an electrician when isolating bolts a plastic bushing installed on both sides of the bolt. You would have a bushing between the sail drive and engine and then again between the head of the bolt and the sail drive.
Hi Mads! I've been a fan for years and beyond my love of boats and DYI, I mostly admire your consistently positive attitude and unwavering motivation to complete your projects. Many people struggle with following through with the simplest tasks, let alone their dreams. Could you give us some insight regarding your seemingly excellent mental health despite having lived through a long period os relative social isolation? You can inspire many people to find their own path. Thank you!
I use a DVM in my daily work and will defer to an analog meter for resistance readings beyond continuity. Not sure if you have access to one or not but if so, I recommend double checking with one if possible. Replacing the isolators seems prudent, but if the readings are still too low try using an analog. Great video as always! We love seeing all the progress you've made.
You are most likely getting continuity through the sail drive input shaft. I wouldn't worry about it too much, just keep a good anode on it and watch it for a while. And I'd just make new insulators out of any old plastic you've got around that won't become brittle over time in the heat.
Normally when we isolate pipe work from coolers we use a fiber glass washer under the bolt head and a fiberglass sleeve just shorter than the plate over the threads
My week/Sunday is not complete until I’ve seen your video. Outstanding production as usual. October is coming fast and excited to see her wet. Good Day from Michigan where we are now making way to get our boats wrapped away for the winter. Glad the boat is painted. She looks stunning.
Great episode! I think it would be almost impossible to stop electrical conductivity between the engine and saildrive. Just keep on top of your sacrificial zinc anodes,
All the videos gave me courage to start my very first boat refit. 2 months in and a new V - Berth and almost new Galley DONE :) Next stop is settee and head and will be moving in. Awesome videos buddy. Keep them coming. hehe Take care.
Hello from Derbyshire in the UK. There will be electrical continuity between the drive shaft splines and the opposite mating part in the gearbox but they are likely to be similar metals. The problem arises when when you get dis-similar metals (aluminium and steel for example). The bolts will be in contact with the Sail drive body inside the hole and the same on the gearbox casing. This may be a cause of electrical continuity. Unless you have a rubber grommet inside each hole along with rubber/plastic washers on all mating surfaces, there will be electrical continuity. Galvanic corrosion is caused when dis-similar metals come into contact with each other or there is a solvent (sea water) that allows electrons to flow between dis-similar metals. The plastic screens are preventing the aluminium of the sail drive body coming into direct contact with the steel but if there is an electrical pathway between the two surfaces , no matter how convoluted, you will get corrosion. You are right to try and close any pathway down. Hope this helps
One thing you might do once you have the new plastic insulation parts ready to install is to start with the sail drive completely separated and do an ohm reading, should be infinity....then as you start your reconnection process do purotic testing checks to see any changes as they happen. This will allow you to see when (if any) the low resistance shows it ugly head....
*TIP* Im Sure you might have thought if this but as you put each part together on sail drive/engine take measurements and as you go you’ll find any issues quicker and isolate them to that point.
Mad's Thank you for the plug in the description. Hopefully folks will zip over to our channel get something from our Boat Electrical Made Easy Series that we did just to help folks out, it will be expanded this winter. It answers the biggest questions we get asked over the years. :-) We are sorry if the comment has caused you a world of pain. But, it's always what you dont know, what you dont know that stops you moving forward? Volvo Penta are very clear in their technical descriptions of sail drive electrical isolation. It should be "0" Ohms or, ∞ (infinity) to be technically correct, resistance between the Saildrive, Gearbox and Engine. (To this end they actually color the engine in green and the gearbox/saildrive in gray in their illustrations). On your Multimeter this may come up as OL or -1 depending on the type. There are a couple of things you may want to check and I will start with the cheapest first. Have you a good battery in your multimeter? 1: Low battery can give false readings but not trigger the low battery warning if your model has this feature? 2: You will need to be sure that there is no electrical path (direct or indirect) through another component, much like the gear and throttle cable shift cables. Maybe an adaption an extra wire somewhere? 3: VP are quite vague about how the drivetrain is isolated from the engine. However, the exploded technical drawing shows the drive plate or "cush drive" having some sort of damping of rubber between the fore and aft section of the drive plate. (VP part number 22026428). This would appear to give an indirect connection to the flywheel therefore it is electrically isolated from the engine. You could test this without removing the engine with your multimeter. 4: VP are; "without prejudice" very touchy about this subject. We have never had a VP sail drive that has continuity between the sail drive and the engine, on 3 different boats. However, we know people who have. One of whom had 2 new sail drives fitted by a VP agent only to have them errode within a year from the inside out. Clearly what is now in their technical information may, or may not have filtered down to their agents. Volvo produce good engines and saildrives that can last for years. They do however, like all propulsion, need regular servicing and checks. Especially in areas like the exhaust injection elbow, the anodes, or paths to earth (sea) of electrical stray currents from both the batteries on board and any shore power connected. Sorry this is a long reply but hopefully others will benefit from it, as much as they do your channels great information and explanations. After all we are all in the same boat? Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
FWIT, I repowered my I-37 with a 3 cyl version of the same engine and sail-drive as you have used several years ago. I also checked the electrical isolation of the engine and sail drive, and it measured over 1 meg ohm.
I was thinking a lever over the top of the engine into the salon would make rocking that engine back child's play. A hole might be needed in the future but we can assume there will be drills in the future too.
D2-40 has 3 plastic bushings for the gearbox bolts. Or at least mine has. I dont remember if there was room to put 4 bushings, but if there is I dont think it hurts to use 4. And yes the saildrive is electrically isolated if everything is installed OK.
It seems to me that the bolts themselves would make an electrical connection between the engine and the sail drive regardless of the plastic “insulators” Keep up the good work. I look forward to your videos every week.
Volvo supposedly have some drives that are engine insulated so you may want to check the manual, datasheet or similar. Not sure if your saildrive requires 100% insulation from the engine though if it does a multi meter wont be enough to measure it correctly, in my experience a dedicated insulation tester would be required producing 100 volts or more especially if the insulation is potentially compromised by damp or dirty grease, oil etc. 20 Megaohm + is usually the minimum insulation resistance for electrical items in service with test voltages usually applied at twice working voltage, most qualified electricians or appliance testers will have an insulation tester, engine sensors, lift pumps, alternator etc will need to be isolated or removed before such a test. Some heater - boiler elements and inductive devices can be permitted low earth leakage currents which is less than ideal for any boat if you fit them.
BRILLIANT content as always, thanks. I noticed that your expansion tank (engine cooling system) looks a little cruddy. Normally not an issue, certainly not a me mechanical one. My thought is that not only does a nice clean plastic tank look good, it also aids quick visual of coolant levels. Easy option is buy a new tank from super cheap Volvo..... or you can actually refurbish tank to as good as brand new. This involves initial degreasing, then soaking in a mild acid solution overnight. There are videos on this procedure for restoring car expansion tanks, cheap, simple, stunning results and zero compromise on tank integrity. Enjoy
Mads, if you google “bolt isolation kit” you’ll find exactly what you need. These are used all the time in ship building. As an example to isolate CuNi pipe from a cast steel seawater pump casing. If they’re not used the Copper will be leached from the pipe in a matter of weeks or months, leaving you with a nickel strainer where your pipe used to be.
Unless you have a plastic sleeve around the input shaft or a plastic insert in the engine flywheel electrically separating the components this will always produce a pathway for the flow of current. All of the other plastic is to prevent the aluminum from corroding to the iron of the engine.
I was thinking the same thing. I don't know how much electrical resistance you can create there. I don't think you need new plastic bits, unless you see damage. Don't feed the Volvo monster.
I was thinking the same thing. Mads, have you checked the continuity with them separated? How about with only the drive shaft touching the sail drive? Isn't this what zincs are supposed to deal with? Full disclosure, I have NO KNOWLEDGE about any of this. :)
Had the same trouble with the insulation. After way to many testings I finally found out it was on of the bolt disks on the port side that was digging through the plastic while tightening. It must have been like that for many years, and you could see the corrosion around the belg was way more than normal.
Great video Mads, that sail-drive has everyone talking! One thing I will say, nobody knows better than the manufacturer, i.e. if it's in the manual it's required.... they don't just make these things up. You will almost certainly need fairleads or some form of protection for the hull where the cleats are. Stainless steel rubbing strips are a cheap after market fix from most chandlers.
Not all plastics are created equal in terms of electrical isolation. Acetal plastic, trade name 'Delrin', is one of the best. Not sure what plastic Volvo Penta is using for those isolating washers and gaskets, but it is likely a flavor of Acetal. I have no idea what they will charge for those as spare parts but we all know Volo spares are not cheap. It may be worth just buying a sheet of thin Acetal from a local plastics supplier and cutting out your own, that way you can make them slightly larger in areas you noted weren't getting good coverage. You could also go with slightly thicker plastic as long as it doesn't cause fitment or alignment issues.
Hi Mads, Have you thought about putting a vacuum gauge with a drag needle after your Racor so that you can set the drag needle to see if you are getting an increase in vacuum in the fuel line indicating a bockage or change of filter needed.
Mads, I'm confused by your quest to isolate the saildrive from the engine. The input shaft to the saildrive will always be in contact with the engine by the spigot machined for support of the shaft by a bushing or bearing in the end of the crankshaft in order to stop the input shaft from " flailing " . If your have a correctly fitted anode on the prop you shouldn't have a galvanic problem. Cheers Eric
I use to work on photocopy machines and plastic over time does start to allow electricity to pass through it. It can deteriorate over time and needs to be replace. I don't know if this is your problem but it is worth considering.
As soon as you put it into water and start the engine for the first time, there will be another conducting path through the salty cooling water, . Those plastic bits seem to be perfectly suitable of preventing any direct contact between aluminium and steel, and this is what you are looking for- breaking the path steel-aliminium-ground, ground being ocean in this case ;-)
Mads, she needs an accent stripe!! You have the tent frames up anyways. Tape off a double stripe, with the top one being thicker, and paint it a beautiful Caribbean turquoise. Or some shade of blue if you are going to mostly sail in cooler waters. Even gray would be nice.
love your videos, as I'm a nuts and bolts type guy, it is a pleasure to watch a methodical and meticulous person accomplish such work.....really looking forward to the splash
Half Danish greeting...nice to hear you sound happy and energetic again 😁
Whoever came up with the bolt idea is a genius and something I bet a lot of people hadn't thought of.
As always your attention to detail is quite amazing. Hull is looking great. Cleats as well. Had to laugh that the "professionals" don't know about or worry about the electrical potential of the SD. Since I had a 40 foot boat sink due to electrolysis, I can attest the importance of this!
I think painting the chain locker should be Ava's job. She can fit in there nicely.
Galvanic corrosion is a very real and destructive force, we found that out the hard and very expensive way on our aluminum future restaurant boat! Good for you sticking to what you believe is right despite the “professionals.”
The deck fitting for lifting the engine could also be an access point for use in case of an engine fire. You could use it to insert a fire extinguisher nozzle. Thanks for another great video, Mads.
yes, if he finds a waterproof IP68 IP69K fire port who meets all standards in the EU.
Mads, every time you say, "I'm no expert" I get a chuckle. Based on what I've seen in your videos versus working with some "experts" I would trust your attention to detail and thoroughness over many of the "experts" any day. Also, I want to print and package the comments sections of your videos because there is more experience and knowledge in this comments section than I've ever found in a manual. It seems like the story doesn't change - when we are working on our own boats, we do a much better job than when a "pro" is working on our boats.
Love the videos!
As a pro I can not second that, of course: the real expert people regularly do send away customers not prepared to pay for their work though, which makes for a market with some pros and a lotta half-cheap bodgers surrounding the experts.
Problem is, the same people not prepared accepting a pro-price in the first place still come back and try to drain knowledge and sometimes even work off the very one they found "too pricy" before, while the dire need of deconstructing what was bodged meanwhile even *adds* reasonably to the price given prior, obviously.
So it is very correct to say "You can not afford to buy cheap" when it comes to specialized pro work.
That's the same as You'll have with "cheap tooling": buy cheap tools, ruin those together with Your workpiece, buy the real tools together with the right tools You need to repair what was ruined before, and add the price for the parts you can't even repair and do have to replace anyway to all the beforementioned. See?
Go get a real pro and be proud having afforded the real deal in the first go.
I still do second the idea of printing and packaging Mads' comment section - lots of very good advice down here.
@@manfredschmalbach9023 - Some fair points.
That being said, however.. all that "professional" means is, "I get paid to do this." It does *not* mean "I'm an expert at this." Which is why I'll be building my own boat. That way, I know that *every single job* was done as well as possible, and that nothing critical was rushed through by an apprentice who just wanted to finish early on a Friday afternoon so as to get down the pub, or got put together by someone not paying proper attention due to a hangover on a Monday morning.
There is no substitute for attention to detail. It’s just who you are.
@@Garryck-1 There's nothing to say against building Your own. It actually was my personal approach to build shit my own after I endured a buncha really really bad experiences with shit other people had built and sold. To me. Which taught me a lesson or two, in the end.
I do my own brakes in my cars and motorcycles today, because I love my life, I build my own house-technique and my own heaters and sailing dinghis and repair/rebuild my own yachts because I want to know that shit is done the right way, wich would be my way, of course, for my shit, at least.
Does that make me an expert?
I do know some people I would give my yachts to repair/rebuild, I do know people I would give my houses to repair/rebuild, I even do know a person I would probably give a motorcycle of mine to repair before I drive it.
Does that make THEM experts?
Other people do pay me for designing and constructing, inspecting, overlooking or even actually building their shit.
Is that what would make me an expert?
Does You building Your own boat/car/motorcycle/house make You an expert?
Would having a stamp and printed letter-paper, a membership of an officially approved club of experts and charging 500 quid an hour for having a look make me or You an expert?
It's a question not so easy answered, I'm afraid.
Cheers.
@@manfredschmalbach9023 - Fully agree with you, mate. My own method for choosing others to do certain tasks for me is generally based on some form of "how much skin do they have in the game?"
For instance, you mention doing your own brakes, because it's YOUR life on the line if they fail. I apply much the same concept in picking, for example, a motor mechanic. I don't go for large operations, that might have half a dozen mechanics and an apprentice or two.. because they don't give a damn about you. There will always be plenty of other suckers walking through their doors. Instead, I look for a small one (or maybe two) man operation who, in conversation, seem to be knowledgeable. (They also need to have a decent reputation.) My reasoning is, the only thing that keeps bread on their table is their reputation. They can't afford to fuck up, or to fuck people over, because if they do, when word gets out, they're going to go hungry. So far, that approach has served me well.
As Håkan Billegren said: you are missing the other plastic bushing. These bushings will alligne the sail drive correctly and keep the bolts away from direct contact with the metal on the sail drive. A little bit of tape aroud the 4 bolts that don't have a bushing might also help.
That chain locker is big enough to act as a brig for all those stowaways you collect during your travels!!!
Just for grins how about running the resistance test while the sail drive and engine are separated. This will establish a baseline and insure you are not chasing some ghost number or have a calibration issue or something going on with the test set.
This was my first thought as well. If you are getting a low resistance measurement with the SD and engine separated then maybe the engine is in contact with the copper coat.
I would have tested with another multimeter first, one with a brand new battery in it, before unbolting and moving the engine.
Good thinking! I think that's obvious. Mads has surely thought of that although he hasn't used the camera while doing it.
@@philgray1023 my thoughts exactly!
Mads, before cutting the slot in the bottom of the bolts, thread on a nut loosely, make your slotted cut and remove the bolt, any burrs created by the grinder will be removed when you take off the nut before installing the bolt through the fitting making it easier to start the nut.
The engine is supposed to be isolated from the saildrive.
The flywheel on the engine has a rubber doughnut bolted to it with the splined drive to the saildrive bonded in the centre of the doughnut. The bolts are sleeved to isolate from the saildrive and prevent the threads touching, with the plastic washers preventing the bolt head touching. So yes the threads contact the engine but the rest of the bolt is isolated from the saildrive.
One possible contact path is if you have steel reinforced water hose from the saildrive inlet to the engine that can cause an electrical path via a tight hose, clamp at each end.
I was wondering how the drive shaft got isolated. Thanks for clearing that up.
The plastic is only for preventing dissimilar metal contact. No need to replace any of it if not damaged. The drive coupler will always allow stray current to reach the saildrive...which is why one should do everything possible to prevent stray currents.
Great work brother and there is nothing like knowing your whole boat end to end
Good job checking the sail drive isolation. Without the sail drive being isolated from the engine your zincs will disappear rapidly.
I have a Volvo D1-30 F. The boat sits in brackish water and I use a big fish zinc anode connected to the sail drive only. This saves the zinc anodes on the Sail Drive and protects the sail drive. I check the continuity between the sail drive and the engine regularly on my boat and there is no continuity. Good luck with the project.
Miles
Since the SD is a cast aluminum housing, think of it as a large Zinc anode -- actually Aluminum is more electronegative than Zinc. In order for it to not act as the largest sacrificial anode on the boat it need s to be electrically isolated from all other metals that may be in contact with sea water. Thus no current can flow and corrosion will be minimized. The iron and copper parts of the engine are connected to sea water through the cooling water and electrical system.
If the SD is not isolated from the engine, you have a complete circuit between dissimilar metals immersed in an electrolyte -- a shorted battery if you will. You all know what happens to a AA cell that is shorted of fully drained in your flash light -- they corrode and leak. I am sure Volvo included all necessary insulating connections between the engine and SD. The drive shaft, mating faces and bolts all need insulating material. To get to 100K ohms they must be clean, dry and possibly baked in the sun for a while. Any surface salt, salty old grease or absorbed water in the plastic insulators will give bad readings. As would any salt water soaked wood (currently dry or wet) the SD was bolted to. Once you get above a few ohms the connection is on longer a direct metal to metal contact but leakage form semi conducting surfaces. He is doing the correct process to locate the leakage by separating things. No dialectic grease or coating are going to work, first vibrations will punch through those. How long the casting will last is a function of how much current will flow. the higher the resistance the lower the current. It's a slow process but it runs 24/7 when ever she is in the water, running or not.
I've got a boat with a Zdrive, and often wonder the same. I am not sure if the engine to drive coupling is isolated or not. I'm no expert and would not know how to test. The Zdrive is aluminum AFAIK. :(
Craig, that is 100 correct, and very well written. I hope you put it on Wikipedia or a Volvo forum for the world to benefit.
Just another reason for me not to be excited with the idea of a saildrive!
I've learned not to ask an electrical professor what he thought... "The electrical state of the atmosphere is mostly determined by atmospheric ions conducive to the said saildrive and the engines local.
Their electrical/nonelectrical forces can cause the flow of conduction and convection currents that determine their spatial and temporal distributions at any place. 🤔
I'll wait for Mads hands-on explanation.
The aligned slots in the bottom of the bolts is exactly why we all love your videos.
Thank you to the person who told Mads about the slot in the screw trick, I can see this making life so much easier when I put my boat back together.
Mads, given the difference in metal between the engine and the sail drive, you are supplying a current with the voltmeter hence creating a battery. For giggles, could you supply the engine block with a small current and remeasure? Maybe use a few small batteries and some alligator clips? Have fun and thank you for your knowledge! Good job on the hull!
Love that idea of cutting a slot in the through bolts, like you Madds I’m always working on my own, thanks to the person who suggested this.
Terry from down under
My suggestion with the sail drive is to use tef gel or some other barrier on all bolts connecting the drive with the engine. I would also test continuity between the sail drive and the ground on the engine starter as there may be an issue with that resistance reading.
When you are measuring Resistance and getting unexpected results make sure there is no stray DC voltage offsetting the measurement. I do think your measurements are good though. Don't forget to measure with the two separated. You never know what else is conducting.
Make sure you also check that the rudder shaft is isolated, there's a couple on RUclips that lost theirs due to galvanic corrosion of the shaft where the hull meets the rudder after a wire in the steering pedestal came loose and in contact with the cable steering system.
As a baseline, test the resistance while they are apart. Then test the resistance between the engine and output shaft, which should be electrically isolated by the donut on the flywheel.
I think those bolts should have a plastic insulator around those bolts too!!!
OMG ...with engines and saildrives... Im rolling!
I have done a couple of boat projects and I'm past the age where I could reasonably take on another one. So there is no rationale explanation for my watching you every Sunday except that they are so damn entertaining. You are rational and know how to tell a story. I hope you'll keep up the video feed when you and your lady take to the high seas. I am looking forward to that.
In English, matching the orientation of all the bolts or screw heads (even on a light switch panel) is called "regulating" the screws. It is a sign that a professional proudly did the job. Gunsmiths are famous for doing this, even though it usually means custom cutting the length of each screw to do that.
Damned good trick on the cleat bolts!
and quick indication if they are turning
From the care and maintenance, Volvo states: “Volvo Penta sail drives are designed to provide the sail boat owner with many years of trouble free boating enjoyment.There are two main components to the galvanic protection system on your Volvo Penta sail drive. First off, the entire sail drive is electrically isolated from the engine and engine grounding system. This isolation is accomplished by the use of plastic bushings, gaskets and washers in the sail drive mounting hardware. Never compromise this protection by placing any type of ship’s ground wire on the sail drive housing or mounting bolts. Don’t use wire wound hose in the water pickup system, and don’t use the sail drive as an SSB ground plane.“
Why? Because if the saildrive is grounded or connected to the electrical system, there is a risk that current is going to flow through it and damage parts of it (internal or most likely the prop). Now there are many zinc or magnesium sacrificial anodes to protect against galvanic corrosion, but this will not help if another component of the boat, i.e. the battery charger is leaking current to the ground (imposed current). The best way to avoid galvanic corrosion is to cut out paths for the electric current to flow!
By using a simple digital meter, measure the resistance between these two parts, the meter should display -1 or infinity. If not you have a problem, current is allowed to flow from the grounding though your saildrive…
i think that shift cable is grounded
Really enjoy your series and have learned a lot. I painted my C&C 33 with Perfection about 7 year’s ago and it now needs a major repainting. Unfortunately Perfection Pro is not available in the US. I called Interlux about this and in reading between the lines the company will not make Pro available because they are protecting Allgrip. Unfortunately I will be using a non Interlux paint so I do not have to tip it out. I would love to see any comments you or your viewers have on this subject.
Before you redo the cockpit, I think an access hatch to the utility room behind the shower would be spiffy. a lifting set might even be be big enough to crawl through. Cheers!
Mads, run with the puns, don't be afraid of them, they are good, they are funny, lean into them! The boat is looking incredible! Excellent progress!
Wow! Details, details, details, Mads!! Your thoroughness is certainly helping ensure Athena sails on trouble-free for the next several decades.
I am always so impressed how you maintain anger and frustration when little details derail an otherwise wonderful day.
He combats his frustration with extreme wit and sarcasm which makes the channel more awesomer. :)
@@soving - And an occasional bit of swearing in Danish.. though it's been a while since he's done that.
Congratulations on finishing the hull, looks great!!
We have to insulate the opposite drive end bearing on DC motors at work. I noticed on those bolts the threads aren’t covered. You might try wrapping a small piece of that plastic around the threads. Also if you know of an electric motor shop nearby you could see if they have any sheets of Nomex and you could make your own insulators. It comes it different thicknesses.
I just finished a binge watch from the initial video about Athena. (March 2016!)
What an amazing journey and spectacular videos you have shared with us Mads.
Thank you!
Lol I always love when I am done from working on my center console boats on a Sunday to come inside and relax and watch your new videos that you post every Sunday
Would be a great idea to have some stainless chafing strips along the cleats. Can be bought ready made. Dont want to ruin new paint job.
I am an ABYC marine electrician, but only a few years of experience. To the best of my knowledge, both the engine and the sail drive should be grounded. All metal items exposed to the saltwater would need to be grounded including the seacocks. All of the corrosion would then make its way to zincs on the shaft/sail drive.
would be
I like the new cleats, they look really cool
This channel is one of my favorite on RUclips. Mads your videos are both informative and entertaining, thank you for making them. Even though you have probably already solved your resistance issue between the engine and saildrive I had an observation. Even though the bolts that pass through the saildrive and into the engine have plastic washers on the heads there is still a path for conductivity through the bolt itself as the bolt threads are obviously touching the engine and the other end of the bolt could be touching the inside of the clearance hole on the saildrive. Unless the clearance holes on the saildrive are insulated to prevent the bolt from touching the saildrive metal, you can have a path for conductivity.
Insulating flange bolts also have sleeves around the outer diameter. if the OD of the bolt touches the sail drive housing then electrical contact is made. Just a little late no dout info. Cheers and the water awaits...
From the looks of it yes the plastic bits would be what Volvo is using to isolate the sail drive from the engine. The input shaft being coated with oil and grease may be able to isolate that part. But even you bolts have to have the plastic sleeves on them to keep them isolated. Sound like though it might be a good idea to make a long distance call back to the volvo factory and talk to the engineers ask them what was their intentions and then make a follow up video explaining it.
My engine is in roughly the same place as yours. To install / remove my engine a friend lent me a simple but great doo-hickey. Imagine a large C shape, made of three 600mm lengths of beefy angle iron, welded corners with strengthening gussets. The engine lifing eyes shakle to the bottom of the C, and a boom crane to the top tip of the C. You can then lift the engine up and slide forwards and backwards as far as your companion way / fixed dodger will allow. I could use it to lift my engine up through the companionway and place in the cockpit - it works a treat - sorry Mads, but IMHO its a more versatile solution and no holes in cockpit sole required.
Gotta say this was one of your best video's your devotion to capturing uncomfortable shots like installing the bow cleats is awesome!! keep up the great work Cheers
I always feel so accomplished after watching an episode of Sail Life. I need a nap.
Having built aluminum boats for 15 years electrically isolating components from each other is an important step. Here are a few things I have learned.
1. As noted below, input shaft connectivity. I do not have a good solution as I have never installed a sail drive.
2. Fluke, or any other brand, of new/modern multimeters generally do not have the driving voltage to properly verify isolation. We have and continue to use a Simpson Analog Multimeter to verify electrical isolation between say a bronze strainer assembly and the aluminum hull (in my case). simpsonelectric.com/products/test-equipment/vom-multimeters/
3. Not only do we isolate the mating surfaces but we also isolate the inside of the bolt hole. Depending on fit up the bolt may be in contact with the inside surface of the plate it is passing through and create an electrical path. We generally use shoulder washers. www.mcmaster.com/nylon-shoulder-washers/
Hope this helps.
Scott
Scott Weiler - that’s why we use a Megger to determine insulation resistance, suitable for the task. Electricians use them. I wonder if the test specifications call for a specific resistance, but at what voltage? If it’s just resistance than fine, fluke meters have just a 1.5 v batt.
+1 for megger or any type of insulation tester. Best to know what voltage the manufacturer suggests testing at as well. The plastic isolation pieces look in good condition a good scrub will do wonders. You could also test the resistance from one side of the plastic to the other to see if it is the issue (lots of dirt on that plug). With the insulation tester you could run around the boat and check/verify the whole ground grid. Would be easy to do with the boat in the stripped down state.
Good point on the multimeter I have the same thoughts as well
@@robertp7209 my Flukes use a PP3 9V battery
@@tonyjover same here
Very interesting. Re: the comments. Not keen on sail drives. In the aviation industry, dissimilar metal corrosion is a big problem. We use a lot of Duralac. For instance we coat our screws and bolts with it also our lap joints. Rivets going through alclad sheet even promote corrosion.when water gets in. The sheet is a sandwich of Duralium with an outer coating of pure aluminium. Try coating the flange at the SD with duralac and coating the bolts as well. Or get a drive shaft instead.
I’ve been binge watching old videos to try and catch up and to watch a current video is a strange but magical thing 😁👍
Aligning those slotted cleat screw heads is some real OCD stuff!
Lol, awesome. Mads is off the spectrum for spiffinesa
Jeff Maria Jenson, the flat head screw slot can be also found from the factory, American RO, reverse osmosis systems rods.
I am very excited to see that boat swim.
Nothing can make up for the sin of misaligning the drinking water deck fill cap like Garret from Salt & Tar did after going through all the work of getting it aligned with the deck planks in the the dry fit stage -but messing it up after he put the adhesive-sealant on. Shoulda used butyl tape!
Everyone knows you align them fore/aft for less wind resistance!
:)
Can’t wait to watch the foam instillation in the abyss
Love the idea of turning the end of the bolt into a flathead, definitely doing that in the future!
Never thought to mention grinding slot in bolts, my Grandfather showed me that decades ago. Not much sailing in Iowa, but took a sailing ship cruise, it was amazing hope to live long enough to do it again.
This is what I wait for every Sunday. Thanks Mads.
I hope you have more luck with black butyl than I've had. It was left by previous owner (brand 3M, sealant for windshield), and it stained like CRAZY. I couldn't tell when fresh, but after some time it left black marks, and I had to use huge quantities of mineral spirit / petrol / acetone (your choice) and paper towels to clean get rid of the marks.
I’m not sure you can completely isolate the sail drive from the engine due to the mechanical connection of the sail drive gear and the engine fly wheel but, I’m not a mechanic. However, in my work as an electrician when isolating bolts a plastic bushing installed on both sides of the bolt. You would have a bushing between the sail drive and engine and then again between the head of the bolt and the sail drive.
Hi Mads! I've been a fan for years and beyond my love of boats and DYI, I mostly admire your consistently positive attitude and unwavering motivation to complete your projects. Many people struggle with following through with the simplest tasks, let alone their dreams. Could you give us some insight regarding your seemingly excellent mental health despite having lived through a long period os relative social isolation? You can inspire many people to find their own path. Thank you!
I use a DVM in my daily work and will defer to an analog meter for resistance readings beyond continuity. Not sure if you have access to one or not but if so, I recommend double checking with one if possible. Replacing the isolators seems prudent, but if the readings are still too low try using an analog. Great video as always! We love seeing all the progress you've made.
You are most likely getting continuity through the sail drive input shaft. I wouldn't worry about it too much, just keep a good anode on it and watch it for a while. And I'd just make new insulators out of any old plastic you've got around that won't become brittle over time in the heat.
The hole is a perfect idea! I have been mulling over a way to get my motor out and this is the answer! Mahalo Mr Mads.
Normally when we isolate pipe work from coolers we use a fiber glass washer under the bolt head and a fiberglass sleeve just shorter than the plate over the threads
hello mads i have been watching the blog for a time now and would not dream of telling you how to do anything because you are so boat clever
Great progress! You're going to need a bigger "done" area on your wall!
My week/Sunday is not complete until I’ve seen your video. Outstanding production as usual. October is coming fast and excited to see her wet. Good Day from Michigan where we are now making way to get our boats wrapped away for the winter. Glad the boat is painted. She looks stunning.
Great episode! I think it would be almost impossible to stop electrical conductivity between the engine and saildrive. Just keep on top of your sacrificial zinc anodes,
All the videos gave me courage to start my very first boat refit. 2 months in and a new V - Berth and almost new Galley DONE :) Next stop is settee and head and will be moving in. Awesome videos buddy. Keep them coming. hehe Take care.
Very clever the way you plan well ahead 👍🏼👍🏼
That is one shinny paint job. Great tip on how to tighten up bolts by yourself.
Good 'ol Athena! Old girl looking great 😄
Hello from Derbyshire in the UK. There will be electrical continuity between the drive shaft splines and the opposite mating part in the gearbox but they are likely to be similar metals. The problem arises when when you get dis-similar metals (aluminium and steel for example). The bolts will be in contact with the Sail drive body inside the hole and the same on the gearbox casing. This may be a cause of electrical continuity. Unless you have a rubber grommet inside each hole along with rubber/plastic washers on all mating surfaces, there will be electrical continuity. Galvanic corrosion is caused when dis-similar metals come into contact with each other or there is a solvent (sea water) that allows electrons to flow between dis-similar metals. The plastic screens are preventing the aluminium of the sail drive body coming into direct contact with the steel but if there is an electrical pathway between the two surfaces , no matter how convoluted, you will get corrosion. You are right to try and close any pathway down. Hope this helps
Sunday enjoyment!
One thing you might do once you have the new plastic insulation parts ready to install is to start with the sail drive completely separated and do an ohm reading, should be infinity....then as you start your reconnection process do purotic testing checks to see any changes as they happen. This will allow you to see when (if any) the low resistance shows it ugly head....
*TIP* Im Sure you might have thought if this but as you put each part together on sail drive/engine take measurements and as you go you’ll find any issues quicker and isolate them to that point.
Make sure the bolts between the engine and sail drive have insulating sleeves over there shaft
Mad's Thank you for the plug in the description. Hopefully folks will zip over to our channel get something from our Boat Electrical Made Easy Series that we did just to help folks out, it will be expanded this winter. It answers the biggest questions we get asked over the years. :-) We are sorry if the comment has caused you a world of pain. But, it's always what you dont know, what you dont know that stops you moving forward?
Volvo Penta are very clear in their technical descriptions of sail drive electrical isolation. It should be "0" Ohms or, ∞ (infinity) to be technically correct, resistance between the Saildrive, Gearbox and Engine. (To this end they actually color the engine in green and the gearbox/saildrive in gray in their illustrations). On your Multimeter this may come up as OL or -1 depending on the type.
There are a couple of things you may want to check and I will start with the cheapest first. Have you a good battery in your multimeter? 1: Low battery can give false readings but not trigger the low battery warning if your model has this feature?
2: You will need to be sure that there is no electrical path (direct or indirect) through another component, much like the gear and throttle cable shift cables. Maybe an adaption an extra wire somewhere?
3: VP are quite vague about how the drivetrain is isolated from the engine. However, the exploded technical drawing shows the drive plate or "cush drive" having some sort of damping of rubber between the fore and aft section of the drive plate. (VP part number 22026428).
This would appear to give an indirect connection to the flywheel therefore it is electrically isolated from the engine. You could test this without removing the engine with your multimeter.
4: VP are; "without prejudice" very touchy about this subject. We have never had a VP sail drive that has continuity between the sail drive and the engine, on 3 different boats. However, we know people who have. One of whom had 2 new sail drives fitted by a VP agent only to have them errode within a year from the inside out.
Clearly what is now in their technical information may, or may not have filtered down to their agents.
Volvo produce good engines and saildrives that can last for years. They do however, like all propulsion, need regular servicing and checks. Especially in areas like the exhaust injection elbow, the anodes, or paths to earth (sea) of electrical stray currents from both the batteries on board and any shore power connected. Sorry this is a long reply but hopefully others will benefit from it, as much as they do your channels great information and explanations. After all we are all in the same boat? Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
FWIT, I repowered my I-37 with a 3 cyl version of the same engine and sail-drive as you have used several years ago. I also checked the electrical isolation of the engine and sail drive, and it measured over 1 meg ohm.
That is usefull information. I'd expect everything over 1kohm is fine.. probably some contamination (dirt) around isolation pads?
Brilliant idea on the access port for the engine lifting lug ...the paint job is looking real nice she's coming together sailing soon !
I was thinking a lever over the top of the engine into the salon would make rocking that engine back child's play. A hole might be needed in the future but we can assume there will be drills in the future too.
I only ride a jet ski but I’ve watched from the beginning and you’re amazing and crafty as can be! Keep it up!
Wow! It is incredible watching you work through so many various tasks!
D2-40 has 3 plastic bushings for the gearbox bolts. Or at least mine has. I dont remember if there was room to put 4 bushings, but if there is I dont think it hurts to use 4. And yes the saildrive is electrically isolated if everything is installed OK.
amazing ... great job Mads
Coming along nicely! you’re making good progress now on all the remaining items before splashing!
It seems to me that the bolts themselves would make an electrical connection between the engine and the sail drive regardless of the plastic “insulators”
Keep up the good work. I look forward to your videos every week.
Volvo supposedly have some drives that are engine insulated so you may want to check the manual, datasheet or similar. Not sure if your saildrive requires 100% insulation from the engine though if it does a multi meter wont be enough to measure it correctly, in my experience a dedicated insulation tester would be required producing 100 volts or more especially if the insulation is potentially compromised by damp or dirty grease, oil etc.
20 Megaohm + is usually the minimum insulation resistance for electrical items in service with test voltages usually applied at twice working voltage, most qualified electricians or appliance testers will have an insulation tester, engine sensors, lift pumps, alternator etc will need to be isolated or removed before such a test. Some heater - boiler elements and inductive devices can be permitted low earth leakage currents which is less than ideal for any boat if you fit them.
BRILLIANT content as always, thanks.
I noticed that your expansion tank (engine cooling system) looks a little cruddy. Normally not an issue, certainly not a me mechanical one. My thought is that not only does a nice clean plastic tank look good, it also aids quick visual of coolant levels. Easy option is buy a new tank from super cheap Volvo..... or you can actually refurbish tank to as good as brand new. This involves initial degreasing, then soaking in a mild acid solution overnight. There are videos on this procedure for restoring car expansion tanks, cheap, simple, stunning results and zero compromise on tank integrity.
Enjoy
You and someone awhile back have made this comment. I think it highly unlikely the issue has gone unnoticed by Mads.
Mads, if you google “bolt isolation kit” you’ll find exactly what you need. These are used all the time in ship building. As an example to isolate CuNi pipe from a cast steel seawater pump casing. If they’re not used the Copper will be leached from the pipe in a matter of weeks or months, leaving you with a nickel strainer where your pipe used to be.
Keep it going Mads! Love the videos!
Thank you so much! :D I'm glad you're enjoying the videos.
Unless you have a plastic sleeve around the input shaft or a plastic insert in the engine flywheel electrically separating the components this will always produce a pathway for the flow of current. All of the other plastic is to prevent the aluminum from corroding to the iron of the engine.
Surely, dielectric grease would improve the situation, no?
I was thinking the same thing. I don't know how much electrical resistance you can create there. I don't think you need new plastic bits, unless you see damage. Don't feed the Volvo monster.
I was thinking the same thing.
Mads, have you checked the continuity with them separated? How about with only the drive shaft touching the sail drive?
Isn't this what zincs are supposed to deal with?
Full disclosure, I have NO KNOWLEDGE about any of this. :)
@@johnVidBozo My thoughts exactly.
Don't the bolts electrically connect the two?
Had the same trouble with the insulation. After way to many testings I finally found out it was on of the bolt disks on the port side that was digging through the plastic while tightening. It must have been like that for many years, and you could see the corrosion around the belg was way more than normal.
The paint job looks AMAZING! Hard to believe thats rolled on
Great video Mads, that sail-drive has everyone talking! One thing I will say, nobody knows better than the manufacturer, i.e. if it's in the manual it's required.... they don't just make these things up. You will almost certainly need fairleads or some form of protection for the hull where the cleats are. Stainless steel rubbing strips are a cheap after market fix from most chandlers.
Not all plastics are created equal in terms of electrical isolation. Acetal plastic, trade name 'Delrin', is one of the best. Not sure what plastic Volvo Penta is using for those isolating washers and gaskets, but it is likely a flavor of Acetal. I have no idea what they will charge for those as spare parts but we all know Volo spares are not cheap. It may be worth just buying a sheet of thin Acetal from a local plastics supplier and cutting out your own, that way you can make them slightly larger in areas you noted weren't getting good coverage. You could also go with slightly thicker plastic as long as it doesn't cause fitment or alignment issues.
13:05 "hear a dropping nut sound, followed by "ah dang it." hehe had a laugh, I know it wasn't nice, but I have been there. Great job as always Mads!
Hi Mads, Have you thought about putting a vacuum gauge with a drag needle after your Racor so that you can set the drag needle to see if you are getting an increase in vacuum in the fuel line indicating a bockage or change of filter needed.
Mads,
I'm confused by your quest to isolate the saildrive from the engine.
The input shaft to the saildrive will always be in contact with the engine by the spigot machined for support of the shaft by a bushing or bearing in the end of the crankshaft in order to stop the input shaft from " flailing " .
If your have a correctly fitted anode on the prop you shouldn't have a galvanic problem.
Cheers Eric
I'm definitely checking my D2-40 now as well! Brand new boat, it should be ok but i fear it is not.
I use to work on photocopy machines and plastic over time does start to allow electricity to pass through it. It can deteriorate over time and needs to be replace. I don't know if this is your problem but it is worth considering.
As soon as you put it into water and start the engine for the first time, there will be another conducting path through the salty cooling water, .
Those plastic bits seem to be perfectly suitable of preventing any direct contact between aluminium and steel, and this is what you are looking for- breaking the path steel-aliminium-ground, ground being ocean in this case ;-)
Mads, she needs an accent stripe!! You have the tent frames up anyways. Tape off a double stripe, with the top one being thicker, and paint it a beautiful Caribbean turquoise. Or some shade of blue if you are going to mostly sail in cooler waters. Even gray would be nice.