Sail Life - LED lights in the saloon - DIY sailboat project
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- This week I put up LED lights aboard my 38 ft sailboat. I also order the wrong size plug for the shorepower inlet - d'oh!
If you want to order Christmas gifts from saillifeshop.com/ and be sure they arrive in time these are the dates to be aware of :)
US - December 10
Europe - December 6
Canada - December 4
Everywhere else - November 28
00:00 Introduction
01:22 Shore power cable
04:45 Drilling holes for lights
07:33 Wiring the lights
11:35 Installing the lights
13:00 Testing the lights in the dark
13:39 Quick peek at next weeks project
15:15 CYA!
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By soldering as you did, you tinned the wires. That's exactly what factory tinned wires are. Tinned = soldered. You did good.
For anyone wanting to tin a ton of wires, I'd look at using a solder bath. makes it SUPER easy.
10:48 Tinning is one of those topics where people can not reach a consensus. Not tinning has the disadvantages you mentioned. Tinning makes the conductor more brittle, especially at the location where it suddenly changes from tinned to not tinned. So they can break under stress, where stranded wires would not.
And if they're Wago 221s, they basically do not care what you stuff inside. Stranded, single solid core, tinned, crimp tips, you name it.
“You would think it was made by Volvo” lol
at this point, i feel it is safe to say that you can no longer introduce these videos aboard, "good old Athena." its time to start them with, "spiffy NEW Athena."
go ahead, you've more than earned it. so has she.
Hi Mads, a piece of advise... Raise the boom before you keep on working on the rigging or sails. It should never be able to hit you on your head and it will not give you space for the bimini/top where it is now. You look SO happy with Athena in the water! Cheers. :-)
After all these years of refitting, it's odd to see Athena in the water at the beginning of your video's, Mads. :D
putting solder on the ends of the wires is called 'tining' them which seems like a good replacement for 'tinned wire'
Tinning or soldering the ends of electrical wire will help keep the corrosion from forming on the surface of bare copper wire which will increase resistance in a junction and will lead to voltage drops and an increase in heat in the wire. It also prevents the wire ends from having loose strands sticking out that can short out to an adjacent terminal. It can also add a softer layer on the wire into which a tightened screw or a pressure tang can get a better grip on the wire and hold the connection better (as you found out)! Oddly enough that is NOT required by our ABYC as a regulation for boat wiring like requiring only stranded wire is, but it should be and makes perfect sense. Following legal codes in marine construction may be a requirement in some countries for insurance companies to cover your boat.
Mads I know you always carefully check your sources, so I can be wrong.., When fitting a plug to the mains cable you better use cable end crimps (ferrules) on the wire ends when screwing them in the plug. This gives you a more secure connection ( risk of overheating or fire) Don’t solder the wire ends when clamping them down with a screw.
0:10 It's hard to believe that I've been watching your movies week after week for so long :)
Greetings
Great job Mads !!
These videos are so fantastic and inspiring!!
Absolutely LOVE your content. Keep'em comin!
Paint turned out amazing
Regarding tinning the ends of wires going into connectors: I don't/wouldn't tin (solder) the ends of cables going into connectors with set screws because the solder can flow over time and cause a loose connection. The Wago's shouldn't be a problem since they are spring loaded.
And that $72 connector was designed to use ferrels on the wires before insertion. I think you made a wise move purchasing a prebuilt cable--I expect you'll find the weatherproofing to be superior.
The lighting look great.
Another great leap forward, and another step closure to living aboard 👍
nothing beats wago. I've tried sugar cube terminals, screw on terminals, crimp terminals, solder, bus bars, the works. Permanent or temporary, if you can use wago then use wago. They have their limits but the same clamp works with both tiny and real thick gauge wire, they are rated for loads of amps, ac and dc and you can make the most compact plus and minus busses with the large ones - great behind cramped instrument panels.
There is no other connector that will get the job done without at least some swearing.
Its really coming along!
Loving the lighting. Another milestone achieved!
You the man homie keep the videos of DIY Sailboat spiffyness coming!
Wow, it is so good to see the boat in the water. Great job Mads.
You really make it all seem so simply.
Wow! It’s really looking good on the inside! Looks awesome outside too!
Great idea using the Wago connectors for lighting, I use them in everything nowadays and it saves me so much time!
Really groovin’ on those awesome lights! Quite lovely.😎
Hi Guys , glorious glorious sanding, and pretty dang spiffy. So a great Sunday.
Lighing to see the run of your heating.....a natural progression. Always a great time ..spending time with you and Athena . Cheers
Mads, I think what you did there by folding over then end of the wire is standard practice. When I fit out my shed recently my electrician did this to every spot the wires got clamped down. First he would strip off more than he needed, then twist the wire to introduce a tight spiral, cut to about 20mm then fold in half
I should just add I’m not an electrician myself, it’s just what I noticed
Aaaaah Sunday is now complete I can sleep easy tonight
You light up my life Theo. Looking fantastic
The new lights look good.
Wow Mads she looks like a new boat !
Quite spiffy! This without doubt the best Warrior afloat!
Glad to see it's still floating this week!1 LOL J/K ! Looks great.
The lighting is a great improvement Mads, well done.
Cut the 'barrel' off of a crimp connector and remove the insulation. Crimp it onto the end of your wire and then you'll have enough metal to tighten the screws on. Moving up to the proper 32 amp wire and plug may solve that problem...For the 'un-tinned' wires, get a tube of 'Di-electric Grease' and squeeze some into each connection. It will exclude moisture and oxygen, preventing corrosion...
Excellent work as usual...
Everything is looking very crisp !
Athena looks Great in the water! Can't wait to be there ourselves!
I like your light choice, and I loved your comment that there will be some fitting or something that you need but do not have. Nice to see someone else lives life on those terms. Excellent work! Thanks!
Loving the progress. Best TV on RUclips. :)
good job Mads
Great vid Mads! Thank you!
Athena is really looking good & very spiffy n ship shape keep the great video's coming Mads you make Mondays worthwhile!
I've been following the series since oblix and I just want you to know you're doing an incredible job. The highlight of my week watching. Greetings from Cambridge England!
Looks fantastic
My God it looks so good in the water!!!
My God it’s a Sail boat!
Great job Madds
The solder was an excellent idea, Mads-good going!
Hey man, you're brilliant! The way you're explaining your doings will definitely Others doings their own refit 🙂
Sail Life Logo on side of boat between horizontal lines. Vote #1
As an electrician, I commend your choice of control of fixtures. Never understand why people working on dark interiors don’t use low voltage cable systems . So easy to set up and use temporarily
Making good progress... best DYI on RUclips.. thank you for sharing 🤙
"Good old Athena" is looking pretty spiffy. Helleva job Mads!
Your face is simply beaming with excitement for the lighting. Good to see you so happy.
She looks fantastic!
Sorry to hear your sick.... Get well we will wait for your work to continue.
mads, love your videos. you are one hard working dude. i can not believe athena has been out of the water for 4 and a half years. time flies when you are having fun. really grateful for all your hard work and sharing this experience with us. we live vicariously thru your. #gratitude
Good lighting job. You are about the same Lat north as me. Can’t wait to see the heating episodes and testing like how long to heat up and how well it circulates the radiant heat. Looking good mads
Love the lights, and I think plumbing is the art of thinking in advance for many variables such as levels, routing and future mishaps (perhaps)...cheers and thank you. ⛵
Mads, its your boat, and you're doing the work, you do what you want, ps, i miss the glorious sanding
Looks like a great idea to solder the wires! No corrosion.
I would pay good money to watch you review popular production boats. As you know so much from experience and you are so honest and postive!
Great video Mads. Lighting is really nice for the camera work. Definitely dark outside. I can't believe it has been four years. I remember how exciting it was when you sailed Athena home. Four years flew by. Thank you for four years of wonderful Sunday nights. Take care, stay well and my best to Ava and Jurkil.
Tinning the wires is the right thing to do!
You made this boat look soo nice since you started working on her.
Nice one Mads, good looking lights, and we quite forgot the 16 Amp plug.....
If I drilled those holes you would see day light ! Thank you for another great episode 👍
Sure looks good in the water now!
Damn Mads, Athena is looking fly! So slick and spiffy. And yes, the stripes do make the boat go faster. I remember when you first sailed her home, and I was so worried you might not make it.
For 32A hook up supply you should have at least 2.5mm 3 core cable. Also the blue plug is for 240v, yellow for 110v, red for 3phaze 415v and neutral; or it was when I was an electrician and I'm sure that hasn't changed. You can always get the US plug and swap over when you get there, as you will be there for a while.
I have to admit, with the mast and boom in place, the formerly goofy-looking dodger really fits the boat.
Looks great afloat!
So I guess the DIY mood lighting is out? I really like those connectors you’re using. I’m sure you’re missing another $71 part for the heater. Thanks again Mads. Great piece.
Started my day with AQUAHOLIC and finished it with Sail Life. I can’t think of a finer day. I am so blessed. I think that Athena looks quite stunning with the all white hull, and no port lites. Such sleek smooth lines. Once you put the toe rail on it might be different, but right now it’s very striking. I do so thoroughly enjoy your work. Thank you so much for your effort
You need to fill up the scrum swim lanes on your project board. I really enjoyed seeing projects move from todo to doing to done. Oddly satisfying.
Soldering the ends of the wire before putting them in a connection like that is a good idea, you also my have not needed to double it up in that case.
Great to see her in the water!
Are you going to give a bit of thought to some red LED lighting for night running Mads?
We use that plug in England for 110 volt, blue ones are £6.72 on eBay UK
Search 240 Volt 32 Amp Blue Electrical Industrial Male Plug.
You can buy ready made leads, female outlets, doubles etc.
You are definitely an anorak!!
IF you sail as well as you DIY, then all will be good!
The sailing will be easy!
Soldering the ends of the wires are actually a really really good idea I’ve worked in the aeronautical industry for many many years and we do the same process ....
I was about to post the same...
I’m happy now, got to get my Mads fix...see y’all next week! Stay safe.
Hi ,I think there is enough advise below ,so carry on Mads you are doing fine . stay safe and keep the lights on ,I,ll look for the glow in the sky ,from the UK
Please always use conductor end sleeves when installing fine wired cables in screw terminals!
Yes! please use wire end sleeves!
Or at last tin on wire tips
I hope that pre-made cable comes with tinned wire !
@@jackpatteeuw9244 I hope it doesn't. Tin tends to flow under pressure, weakening the connection. You definitely want sleeves on the conductors (a.k.a. ferrules). Had to look up the term because English is not my native language... ;-)
Edit: best option is probably both sleeves and tin.
I also should apologize - tinned != with solder. Obviously, with just a tiny coating of tin on each individual strand, nothing is going to flow. Adding a sleeve is still going to be a good idea, though.
@@realulli I have seen ferrules deform under pressure and the wire pull right out.
You know the boom is at the right height if you keep bumping your head!😍
that's why "they" call it a boom, right??
Soldering is an excellent idea for stranded cable. Looking forward to following the rewiring! Do also place the dimmer unit in an easy to access place -- they can be very fail prone.
Tinning wire creats a hard spot that can fatigue fail due to vibration that is why it is not done on aircraft or car looms same can happen on boats so not the best thing to do.
Bad idea. Tin has a tendency to creep when under pressure. It can become a fire hazard.
It is a fantastic idea. Did it all the time in the Navy
Wago Wallnuts! Love them! And I am in the USA where they are unobtainium. I think you are wise to “tin” those wires, but I am just a DIY cowboy. Everything is looking super spiffy indeed!
Hello from Slovenia I desperately wait for your upload every Sunday and now that the boats are so close together please make longer videos
Waiting 7days for 15min sucks 😊
By the way love your work an videos
Stay safe
I totally agree. Longer videos are far better entertainment after waiting a week to watch 👍👍🇺🇸🙏
Mads don't beat yourself up so much about mistakes you have so many details and everything is getting closer to the deadline . So your only human like the rest of us . Don't worry you are doing much better then 99.99 % of the other DYI channels out there !!
Exactly! 😉
Mads, looking good. I would think at least three light switches (port, middle, starboard strings). Cheers.
Mads- Looks awesome! PLEASE remember to clean the flux core residue off of the tinned ends; the flux in the solder will cause the wires to corrode over a short time if left in place.
Great video
Tinning the ends of the wires with solder was a great idea
have to admit i like the slick lines of the boat without the ballwalk ..looks like a racing boat. as to lights , i use those in my work you should have got the Downlight Mini Swivel Round 2,5w
Hi Mads, I would recommend that you get yourself a selection of Bootlace Ferrules for your future wiring projects. Once crimped into place they are exceedingly sturdy and will vastly reduce the wire slippage you experienced with the shore power plug screws. I used to work in a factory that made lighting for public spaces and prisons, and we had a little electric crucible that heated up blocks of solder, so that we could tin our wire bundles for easier fitment into the connectors, by dipping them in the melted solder. It was useful because it guaranteed an even amount of solder per wire, and reduced the amount that snuck under the sleeve.
Tinned cables are just exactly what you did. A bit of solder on the end. Previous commenter ılCigno said "conductor end sleeves" Sounds like awesome advice. Soldering increases chances of cables snapping through movement stress. Sailboats even when stationary are not the most movement free things. As with many things it'll work fine until it doesn't. The side effects on a boat may be more serious than non functionality. Looking awesome. Can't believe there was no brass band and champagne for the splash. ;)
Get well Mads!
Cool light!!!
Soldering the end of the wires is a good idea. Think about using bootlaces as well. Quicker and easier.