I’m a enthusiast of German auto engineering, also i do understand n work on engine transmission n suspension n body works, plus restoration projects, i c this guy honestly gave details n professionally done job, sharing with people is the best master can get.
Yep, found out about these filters a couple of years ago, none of the local garages mentioned these, happy to advise replacement vanos solenoids, but no mention of the filters and regular cleaning. I clean mine now with each oil change, twice a year. If replacing vanos valves, Never use the cheap Chinese ones, Always original.
Vehicular DIY, You have some of best and most informative videos, many thanks to you for all your efforts!!! If any of your followers are curious, the check valves mentioned here are NO LONGER INSTALLED on N55 motors, and are now part of the Vanos Solenoids. Per FCP Euro " This solenoid is an updated design, introduced in the N55 engine, which includes integrated non-return valves and screens which were previously installed separately on the cylinder head. This technical update allows for fewer oil passages in the cylinder head and with other major improvements to the VANOS hubs allow for quicker adjustment times. The integrated screen filter in these solenoids prevents sticking due to particles in oil. "
I cleaned mine after buying the car, didn't have to remove wheel, it's easy to get to from top unless you don't know exact location. Mine were super clean. Weird those are mentioned so rarely, they should really be mentioned whenever talking about Vanos Solenoids.
Yeah I could see it taking a similar amount of time if you did it all from the top by feel. If they are gummed up they might not just slide out and you may need to remove the wheel. I pretty much had to for video purposes.
Attempted this DIY yesterday after changing my transfer case fluid. After un-screwing the bottom one (from the top of the engine by feel and mirror inspection, didnt think I’d need to remove wheel and well cover) I could not pull it clear out of the head. Spun and spun but could not get any purchase on it, flush to the head. O-ring and gummy sludge likely. I’m going after it with a glue of some sort. I wonder, they call it a non-return valve and so if its supposed to act like a check valve, whichbis the direction of oil flow and is there a slider inside the mesh filter which can be tested?
Sucks that this video just came out...I swapped my n54 for a junk yard n54 and went over the engine check little things replacing gaskets and seals to make sure no issues before I installed it. If I woulda known I would have done this also 😂 now I got something to do on the car
Very good video. I remember there was only one video I can find years ago for this. I put new solenoids an exhaust and intake and it didn’t matter because I never checked my check valves. They have to be cleaned. Also people you were still get a VANOS codes. If you do not do both the solenoids, and the check valves are necessity!
Vanos solenoids can cause miss firing. My car 70k km on the clock had issues with them, I had miss firing and increased fuel consumption plus limbs mode. Replacing the exhaust one first got me going for 2 months then the intake one needed to he replaced too. Now it's all good, or at least that's what I wish lol
As a former E92 N54 6MT owner and current E90 N55 6AT owner, I love your channel and always learn from your content!!! Thanks! What brand and weight oil do you run? I'm running the BMW branded 0W-30 w/Mann filter and change it every 3500 miles.
Every time I go into boost and let off i get these codes … 3100 and 2A87 … I cleaned my vanos solenoids but that didn’t help , now I didn’t know about these filters because no one really mention these , I’m going to clean my vanos solenoids again and also clean these filters hopefully that fixes my issue .. Good thing is I hit boost target right away and not misfiring
@@kero_e46 bro it even got worse , the cam ledges started having issues so the car broke down while I was at a stop sign , eventually need to get new cam ledges with the updated seals haven’t had the time to start it yet due to working out of town
I bought an E61 N54 that was throwing P0012 and P0016 codes, turned out the intake vanos filter was clogged. Cleaned it with brake cleaner and the codes never returned.
Hey man, As always thanks for the useful videos For your misfire issue, did you consider upgrading the valve cover? Do you have catch can? I would also suggest a Methanol injection kit as it will lower the temperature inside the combustion chamber rapidly and will sure help in misfires
your videos are so well informative by the way . i suspect this i a job i shall be tackling later this evening . i suspect I need to do the same .when I did first oil change on mine the oil filter was horrid. was also getting moderate limp mode if ya know what i mean .
PLEASE a need advice on how to take it filter off, i can see with the mirror , but no way to insert the t40, Even took out the wheel, but the chassis don't let me fit it correctly, adding a swilling is imposible to get a T40 in place By hand i can't touch it, Now i afraid if i can took ofg hiw i gonna screwed again is aluminum and can mess up the threads Help is shaking on reverse and ever stop
If you start your car and give it some and the timing isn't being advanced this is your problem it's broken and it's always open letting pressure flow as it wishes
I've heard rough idle and power loss eventually leading to a code for the solenoid but it could just be the filters are clogged up. In my opinion if you find that the filters are clogged you should consider replacing or cleaning the solenoids also as changes are they are dirty as well.
@@VehicularDIY I can only go by my experience. What I've seen is that by the time these are clogged with debris, there is internal engine damage which absolutely results in idle issues to begin with. The engine I had problems with had about 125k miles on it and I suspect started with a broken oil filter cap that likely bypassed oil. The cap has since been replaced with a new one. It has a cold start idle "bounce" that now resolves itself after about a minute of run time. It also originally did set VANOS solenoid codes, but the solenoids themselves were bad. I tried cleaning them to no avail and it would hardly run with the intake/exhaust solenoids swapped. New, genuine BMW solenoids resolved the codes. The filters/non-return valves were clogged with metal filings that I believe are from the cam trays and head itself, likely a result of low oil pressure. I replaced them with new filters which definitely helped. Unfortunately there's no undoing the damage that's already been done. After another 25k miles was added to the vehicle, I pulled the filters again and they look perfect now.
You would lost this bet with me, buttttt this is a way under reported issue, so in glad your bringing it to light. Fire content as always. Just one question does your n54 idle prefect smooth of does your engine need to get proper hot first? My idle to me is rough but the shop says its perfectly fine, ok not sure
It idles pretty smooth cold, especially considering I'm running E50 ethanol and I have two stage colder plugs. This is only true since running index 12 injectors. Before that I'd get some pretty crappy cold starts. Are you running index 12 injectors on your N54?
@@VehicularDIY tbh I have no idea I was gunna buy some but my performance shop said it was as smooth as it gets, I think I should just do injectors as a precaution though
My idle gets smooth only after the car and oil is up to temp, but for 15 minutes my idle is rough(to my standard) but the tach needle is steady, just what feels rough to me
Thanks, I also replace my oil every 5 to 7k miles. I haven't replaced them and I'm not sure if they're original to the car. I will be but only due to a misfire at high rpm. If it fixes that I will definitely let you guys know if they should just be replaced for maintenance at high mileage.
@@dflex4180 I wonder about that, doing the LQM oil flush and fuel. My screens were half plugged, when I cleaned them. Now with 160,000 miles, and no premium dealer service flushes for a while, if ever.
Hey Im a mechanic myself and customer brought in a 2009 335i 182,000 miles with this N54 Block with super dirty black oil it was misfiring and has codes 2A82 Vanos inlet as well as code 3100 charging pressure control, switch off ...i replaced engine oil, all sparkplugs ignition coils and i cleaned the vanos variable timing actuator solenoid intake and exhaust... still kept getting the engine performance malfunction half check engine lightt on the dash and i cleaned both vanos check valves just like you did in this video and car ran amazing for 10 miles now i get the same problem im imagining this engine if full of oil sludge
doesnt misfire as rough anymore but i might need some new parts instead of cleaning them im imagining because my upper vanos check valve came out super dirty full of gunk
You need a micro lens as I never could see the screen until you mentioned it. Second valve, while not seriously dirty, definitely had trapped more debris. I was wondering if new O rings are recommended, also?
Yeah I'd need a macro lens to capture that type of detail. I agree with the comment below, you can reuse but if you have any concern consider a new pair.
Hey! I don't have too much seat time in E60s, I've driven a 545i with a 6 speed and a E61 530i with an auto. I'd lean toward the M suspension if it was my car.
@@e90lownslow14 i have the exact same issue with the top one. It's really frustrating. It keeps on spinning at the end. I have no way to grab it and pull it out. I believe the compressed O-ring is still holding it in. The engine is N52. Has anyone got any ideas?
Hi what’s your opinion on the n20 engines? The ones that have the timing chain problem? Can we buy one used, do some preventive maintenance and would it be as reliable as the e90?
What year were you thinking? I heard the later N20s (2015 and 2016) have revised timing components. Also if the car was regularly maintained even the older ones aren't all prone to failure from what I've heard.
Vehicular DIY understand. But what I see from the media and people are horror stories. That’s why I wanted an expert, honest opinion from you. I was looking at a 2013 model. Still not cheap. Is it worth the plunge?
They're nothing special, I have Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s in the rear and they are an excellent value for money. It's of course a summer only tire. The front tires are just a Discount Tire special and they're comfortable and cheap but I wouldn't recommend them in snow.
Can someone please help, I tried removing the check valve and it unscrewed all the way out but it's not popping out. It keeps on spinning at the end. I have no way to grab it and pull it out. I believe the compressed O-ring is still holding it in. The engine is N52. Has anyone got any ideas?
@@JitnikovitchSC Yes. I bought a self-tapping screw with a hex head. Then, I used a slide hammer to pull it out. I put new ones in and everything went well then.
Messy solution... unscrew them all the way and start the engine for 2 second..... oil will make a huge mess all over while pushing them out...ask me how I know...
@@VehicularDIY I mean I watch your videos before I work on my 335i, but if you didn't and you probably did this already, I would try swapping spark plugs and coils.
probably too late but i used the bimercode app with a bluetooth odbII connector to change to the i8 chime on my m235i. much easier on the ears. Cheers!
The BMW oil change interval is far too long. Its designed around an economic equation and lots of brainwashing propaganda to suit new car buyers. If you follow that interval your engine effectivly will be ruined by the time it gets to about 10 years old. It will need to have every seal and internal plastic part replaced.
@@JackRR15 No, following BMWs schedule is missing oil changes... . Never ever leave oil in any car for more than a year unless it's a weekend only car that never does a short trip even then many will disagree with that. . I have a dealer serviced BMW and I book a basic oil change once a year. They tell me it's not necessary but they still do it for me. It's not a case of me knowing more than BMW. It's actually a case of me wanting to get more life from my BMW than they want me to get.
I’m a enthusiast of German auto engineering, also i do understand n work on engine transmission n suspension n body works, plus restoration projects, i c this guy honestly gave details n professionally done job, sharing with people is the best master can get.
Crazy when you take care of these cars how good they are
Yep, found out about these filters a couple of years ago, none of the local garages mentioned these, happy to advise replacement vanos solenoids, but no mention of the filters and regular cleaning. I clean mine now with each oil change, twice a year. If replacing vanos valves, Never use the cheap Chinese ones, Always original.
You change your oil 2 times a year ?
@@RR-nu3mc yes so do I or every 5000 miles
That LIP is LIFE!
Vehicular DIY,
You have some of best and most informative videos, many thanks to you for all your efforts!!!
If any of your followers are curious, the check valves mentioned here are NO LONGER INSTALLED on N55 motors, and are now part of the Vanos Solenoids.
Per FCP Euro
"
This solenoid is an updated design, introduced in the N55 engine, which includes integrated non-return valves and screens which were previously installed separately on the cylinder head. This technical update allows for fewer oil passages in the cylinder head and with other major improvements to the VANOS hubs allow for quicker adjustment times. The integrated screen filter in these solenoids prevents sticking due to particles in oil.
"
I cleaned mine after buying the car, didn't have to remove wheel, it's easy to get to from top unless you don't know exact location. Mine were super clean. Weird those are mentioned so rarely, they should really be mentioned whenever talking about Vanos Solenoids.
Yeah I could see it taking a similar amount of time if you did it all from the top by feel. If they are gummed up they might not just slide out and you may need to remove the wheel. I pretty much had to for video purposes.
Attempted this DIY yesterday after changing my transfer case fluid. After un-screwing the bottom one (from
the top of the engine by feel and mirror inspection, didnt think I’d need to remove wheel and well cover) I could not pull it clear out of the head. Spun and spun but could not get any purchase on it, flush to the head. O-ring and gummy sludge likely. I’m going after it with a glue of some sort. I wonder, they call it a non-return valve and so if its supposed to act like a check valve, whichbis the direction of oil flow and is there a slider inside the mesh filter which can be tested?
Sucks that this video just came out...I swapped my n54 for a junk yard n54 and went over the engine check little things replacing gaskets and seals to make sure no issues before I installed it. If I woulda known I would have done this also 😂 now I got something to do on the car
Very good video. I remember there was only one video I can find years ago for this. I put new solenoids an exhaust and intake and it didn’t matter because I never checked my check valves. They have to be cleaned. Also people you were still get a VANOS codes. If you do not do both the solenoids, and the check valves are necessity!
Surprised yours lasted so long. Mine went out 2 years ago at 95,000 miles
Vanos solenoids can cause miss firing.
My car 70k km on the clock had issues with them, I had miss firing and increased fuel consumption plus limbs mode. Replacing the exhaust one first got me going for 2 months then the intake one needed to he replaced too. Now it's all good, or at least that's what I wish lol
alatraqji how much did that cost you?
Whoa...I actually never heard of this. I think I might take a look at these
As a former E92 N54 6MT owner and current E90 N55 6AT owner, I love your channel and always learn from your content!!! Thanks!
What brand and weight oil do you run?
I'm running the BMW branded 0W-30 w/Mann filter and change it every 3500 miles.
Thanks! I run Shell Rotella T6 5W40 and replace it every 5 to 7 k miles.
0w30 for stock is perfect year around And 3500 mile interval is just right. Any major boost upgrades and you'll have to go heavier in oil.
Every time I go into boost and let off i get these codes … 3100 and 2A87 … I cleaned my vanos solenoids but that didn’t help , now I didn’t know about these filters because no one really mention these , I’m going to clean my vanos solenoids again and also clean these filters hopefully that fixes my issue ..
Good thing is I hit boost target right away and not misfiring
did that fix it? i’m having the same problem 😭
@@kero_e46 bro it even got worse , the cam ledges started having issues so the car broke down while I was at a stop sign , eventually need to get new cam ledges with the updated seals haven’t had the time to start it yet due to working out of town
@@kero_e46 check your camshaft position sensors also bro
Another great video 🙏 didnt even know bout this
I bought an E61 N54 that was throwing P0012 and P0016 codes, turned out the intake vanos filter was clogged. Cleaned it with brake cleaner and the codes never returned.
Did you ever get a continuous P0015 code?
i love this channel keep up the n54 video amazing
Perfect, to the point with no repeating the same like some Doctors 😬
*cough cough* BMW DOCTOR. hahahah
@@bpsehgghhhh6684 :)
Fantastic video I would have never known about this .Thank you 👍👍👍😂
Hey man,
As always thanks for the useful videos
For your misfire issue, did you consider upgrading the valve cover? Do you have catch can?
I would also suggest a Methanol injection kit as it will lower the temperature inside the combustion chamber rapidly and will sure help in misfires
Thanks! Don't have a catch can but have one ready to go on. Thanks for the tip.
Very nice tip! Keep up the great work. Dutch regards, Nico.
Excellent video! Congrats
your videos are so well informative by the way . i suspect this i a job i shall be tackling later this evening . i suspect I need to do the same .when I did first oil change on mine the oil filter was horrid. was also getting moderate limp mode if ya know what i mean .
PLEASE a need advice on how to take it filter off, i can see with the mirror , but no way to insert the t40,
Even took out the wheel, but the chassis don't let me fit it correctly, adding a swilling is imposible to get a T40 in place
By hand i can't touch it,
Now i afraid if i can took ofg hiw i gonna screwed again is aluminum and can mess up the threads
Help is shaking on reverse and ever stop
If you start your car and give it some and the timing isn't being advanced this is your problem it's broken and it's always open letting pressure flow as it wishes
First! I've only seen those clogged once and that was on an N52 with issues.
What are the symptoms if these need cleaning?
I've heard rough idle and power loss eventually leading to a code for the solenoid but it could just be the filters are clogged up. In my opinion if you find that the filters are clogged you should consider replacing or cleaning the solenoids also as changes are they are dirty as well.
@@VehicularDIY I can only go by my experience. What I've seen is that by the time these are clogged with debris, there is internal engine damage which absolutely results in idle issues to begin with. The engine I had problems with had about 125k miles on it and I suspect started with a broken oil filter cap that likely bypassed oil. The cap has since been replaced with a new one. It has a cold start idle "bounce" that now resolves itself after about a minute of run time. It also originally did set VANOS solenoid codes, but the solenoids themselves were bad. I tried cleaning them to no avail and it would hardly run with the intake/exhaust solenoids swapped. New, genuine BMW solenoids resolved the codes. The filters/non-return valves were clogged with metal filings that I believe are from the cam trays and head itself, likely a result of low oil pressure. I replaced them with new filters which definitely helped. Unfortunately there's no undoing the damage that's already been done. After another 25k miles was added to the vehicle, I pulled the filters again and they look perfect now.
@@lenham2006 I'll try to grab a video. For my example, it's an unstable or bouncy idle immediately after starting the vehicle.
Good to know, thanks for sharing with us
You would lost this bet with me, buttttt this is a way under reported issue, so in glad your bringing it to light. Fire content as always. Just one question does your n54 idle prefect smooth of does your engine need to get proper hot first? My idle to me is rough but the shop says its perfectly fine, ok not sure
It idles pretty smooth cold, especially considering I'm running E50 ethanol and I have two stage colder plugs. This is only true since running index 12 injectors. Before that I'd get some pretty crappy cold starts. Are you running index 12 injectors on your N54?
@@VehicularDIY tbh I have no idea I was gunna buy some but my performance shop said it was as smooth as it gets, I think I should just do injectors as a precaution though
My idle gets smooth only after the car and oil is up to temp, but for 15 minutes my idle is rough(to my standard) but the tach needle is steady, just what feels rough to me
Have you replaced your vanos solenoids? I got 115k, not sure if I should do it or not. I'm doing 5-7k oil changes. Thanks great videos
Thanks, I also replace my oil every 5 to 7k miles. I haven't replaced them and I'm not sure if they're original to the car. I will be but only due to a misfire at high rpm. If it fixes that I will definitely let you guys know if they should just be replaced for maintenance at high mileage.
WHAT IF ONE OF THEM HAD ALOTTTT/FULL OF METAL SHAVINGS AND THE OTHER HAD NONE AT ALL??? AND METAL WHEN I CHANGED OIL
190k miles, what kind of oil are you using? And do you believe in Engine/Oil Flush? Thanks for the info😎🤙🏽
Anything bmw flush related liqui moly brand👌 they have cleaners for most anything
@@coynor1 cleaners are most snake oil but LQM is good engine oil
@@dflex4180 I wonder about that, doing the LQM oil flush and fuel.
My screens were half plugged, when I cleaned them. Now with 160,000 miles, and no premium dealer service flushes for a while, if ever.
What did you use to clean them? Throttle body cleaner would work? Are these interchangeable? Thanks again
brake cleaner and yes they are identical
Hey man, where abouts did you purchase that front bumper?!?
Hey Im a mechanic myself and customer brought in a 2009 335i 182,000 miles with this N54 Block with super dirty black oil it was misfiring and has codes 2A82 Vanos inlet as well as code 3100 charging pressure control, switch off ...i replaced engine oil, all sparkplugs ignition coils and i cleaned the vanos variable timing actuator solenoid intake and exhaust... still kept getting the engine performance malfunction half check engine lightt on the dash and i cleaned both vanos check valves just like you did in this video and car ran amazing for 10 miles now i get the same problem im imagining this engine if full of oil sludge
doesnt misfire as rough anymore but i might need some new parts instead of cleaning them im imagining because my upper vanos check valve came out super dirty full of gunk
Perhaps a couple engine flushes along with cleaning of these check valves will solve the issue.
Art cisneros hi, did you find a solution? Thanks!
You need a micro lens as I never could see the screen until you mentioned it. Second valve, while not seriously dirty, definitely had trapped more debris.
I was wondering if new O rings are recommended, also?
Macht Schnell just oil the oring and reinstall you’ll be fine, if ur gonna get new oring might as well get new vanos filters since they come with them
Yeah I'd need a macro lens to capture that type of detail. I agree with the comment below, you can reuse but if you have any concern consider a new pair.
Hey does this apply to the 4 cylinder N43 also
I tried to take them out from the top and i couldnt get to them no matter how i tried...Altho i have no Vanos codes or issues...
Hey man!
Do you recommend stock suspension or M suspension in e60 535D 272hp ?
I’d apreciate your response! Great work as always! Cheersss
Hey! I don't have too much seat time in E60s, I've driven a 545i with a 6 speed and a E61 530i with an auto. I'd lean toward the M suspension if it was my car.
Are those bilstein b4s? Is the misfire intermittent and on a single cylinder by a chance?
What do you do if one of them strips out
Does n55 have this too?
I did this on my car and it stopped shaking. They are not expensive parts, just be careful when taking them out.
I'm in the process of doing mine and they just keep spinning. Any ideas on how to get it out??
Try putting sideways pressure on them while turning.
@@VehicularDIY ok I'll try that thank you. It might also be best to get it from Passenger wheel well. I see how much easier it is then going from top.
@@chadjabes6141 hey were you able to get them out? I got the bottom one out but the top one just keeps spinning. decided to just tighten it back up.
@@e90lownslow14 i have the exact same issue with the top one. It's really frustrating. It keeps on spinning at the end. I have no way to grab it and pull it out. I believe the compressed O-ring is still holding it in. The engine is N52. Has anyone got any ideas?
@@abhipuru16 use a magnetize bit or used a magnet to assist
Does the n55 335i or n55 any, do they have this part
Hi what’s your opinion on the n20 engines? The ones that have the timing chain problem? Can we buy one used, do some preventive maintenance and would it be as reliable as the e90?
What year were you thinking? I heard the later N20s (2015 and 2016) have revised timing components. Also if the car was regularly maintained even the older ones aren't all prone to failure from what I've heard.
Vehicular DIY understand. But what I see from the media and people are horror stories. That’s why I wanted an expert, honest opinion from you. I was looking at a 2013 model. Still not cheap. Is it worth the plunge?
About how many miles do you think you should clean the filters out or replace?
I'd say clean them every 40 to 60k.
Does e92 2009 328 has this
What kind of brand tires are those ? Do they work well in snow ? Since i live in Ny
They're nothing special, I have Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s in the rear and they are an excellent value for money. It's of course a summer only tire. The front tires are just a Discount Tire special and they're comfortable and cheap but I wouldn't recommend them in snow.
is the secondary oil cooler at 1:08
What did you use to clean them?
you can use break cleaner
What's the symptoms when vanos filters is dirty??
Vanos codes and rough running most likely.
@@VehicularDIY thank you!!
If it’s clogged can it cause rough idle
yes...and poor throttle response especially in low rpm
It's a non-return valve not a filter
its a filter.
Would this be in a 2013 n55 f10 535i??
no there built into the vanos solenoid itself if you look they have a filter on them already this is for n52 and n54 i believe
Can someone please help,
I tried removing the check valve and it unscrewed all the way out but it's not popping out. It keeps on spinning at the end. I have no way to grab it and pull it out. I believe the compressed O-ring is still holding it in. The engine is N52. Has anyone got any ideas?
Did you figure it out ?
@@JitnikovitchSC Yes. I bought a self-tapping screw with a hex head. Then, I used a slide hammer to pull it out. I put new ones in and everything went well then.
Messy solution... unscrew them all the way and start the engine for 2 second..... oil will make a huge mess all over while pushing them out...ask me how I know...
How are your fuel trims?
Fuel trims seem pretty dialed. My lpfp is keeping up and my hpfp isn't crashing at all.
@@VehicularDIY I mean I watch your videos before I work on my 335i, but if you didn't and you probably did this already, I would try swapping spark plugs and coils.
got any info how can i change my car chime from beep to dong?
You'd have to have CCC navigation. You could potentially retrofit it but that would involve a dash swap.
probably too late but i used the bimercode app with a bluetooth odbII connector to change to the i8 chime on my m235i. much easier on the ears. Cheers!
You still chasing a misfire huh? Did you do a compression test? Are you still with the same tuner ?
Yeah I did a compression test, I'll post a video on that on Wednesday. Same tuner yeah.
How the hell does someone not be able follow BMW oil change. It's set to 2 years 15k miles lmao
The BMW oil change interval is far too long. Its designed around an economic equation and lots of brainwashing propaganda to suit new car buyers. If you follow that interval your engine effectivly will be ruined by the time it gets to about 10 years old. It will need to have every seal and internal plastic part replaced.
@@andrewthompsonuk1 Yes but what I am saying is how does one even miss that BMW schedules one? He was saying people skip the changes.
@@JackRR15 No, following BMWs schedule is missing oil changes... . Never ever leave oil in any car for more than a year unless it's a weekend only car that never does a short trip even then many will disagree with that. .
I have a dealer serviced BMW and I book a basic oil change once a year. They tell me it's not necessary but they still do it for me.
It's not a case of me knowing more than BMW. It's actually a case of me wanting to get more life from my BMW than they want me to get.
@@andrewthompsonuk1 lol no car BMW or not should go over 7000 miles i do it twice a year
these arent a failure point, 99% of cars vanos filters will work aswell with 5k miles vs 300k miles
lol of course they are a failure point yea your car works but runs like shit after 100000 if these are dirty
Those o rings looked flat-ish