Extreme Budget Engine Rebuild-Pt 4-Error In Logic?
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
- In this episode I answer some questions from the previous series and address several viewers' observations that possibility I was a bit hasty in my determination that the cylinder bore diameter is out of spec and maybe the block does not need machine work after all!!
Part 5 is here: • Extreme Budget Engine ...
Telescopic (bore) gauges have a particular method of use that may be of interest: Set the gauge to a dimension a little more than the bore to be measured, and tighten the thumb-screw only enough to hold the setting, but not so much as to lock it. Cock the tool and enter the bore at the depth that you want to measure. Gently tilt the gauge in order to span the bore. Continue to tilt the gauge, so that the loosely set thumb-screw will allow initial gauge adjustment the gauge to yield. Continue to sweep the gauge until it passes the major diameter. At this point the thumb screw will resume holding the setting. Carefully remove the gauge from the bore, and measure, Cheers.
I am a pro machinist for 50+years. Please use micrometers to check size! plasticgage and verniers will only get you close. Telescoping gauges are no better than a Chinese micrometer you check it with. If you want it perfect, use the quality stuff. I made the same mistakes until I took the plunge. Love you enthusiasm and show. :-)
Kudos to you! I rebuilt a lot of engines in my teens and twenties in my garage, none in my 30's and 40's. Here I am tinkering on a Blazer rebuild and wondering why, anyways this was a fantastic refresher series and since all my rebuilds were long before the internet I want to tell you that you covered everything and more that took me years to learn in the days before dial-up. I love your scientific and factual approach. You do excellent work and just wanted to say thank you. Keep it up.
I want to say thank you for taking the time to explain so well to the public mass of automotive enthusiasts that don't have the proper training/intelligence.
This channel is pure gold... platinum... for all DIY type of guys.
Thank you!!! Please keep it up, you have helped many and yet many more to be helped!
Thanks man!!
Out of necessity I am gearing up to rebuild my Jeep 2.5 4cyl. and watching every video and reading all I can about how to go about this. I have never done this before but feel I could with enough info. I already do all I can for my Jeep myself and worked on a machine in a factory working in thousandths. Like I said this is out of necessity and if I fail I will do what has to be done at that point. Just wanted to say your videos have given me a better understand what I have ahead of me. I thank you for your detailed instruction. You would have made a very good teacher. I pray the specs. will be in the master kit I will be getting for my motor. Thanks again, Jim
You hammer home procedure, evidence based theorems, and incorporating those is a small step in my life to understanding. Thank you.
@26:20 100% agree! My father-in-law used to say:"Do you want to hear the truth, or a good-sounding lie?" It has been my experience that many people opt for the latter. A meticulous, scientific approach to car repair is what I was looking for. I'm glad I found your channel.
***** Your father in law gave good advice and your assessment of most people is (unfortunately) dead-on accurate.
Really enjoy your videos, was lucky enough to have to rebuild 6 of these engines back in the early 70's with my dad. Back then these engines did not last like the later ones of today. We started out only replacing the pistons on the blocks that had to be rebored or the pistons were out of spec. The ones that all we had to do was rehone and remove a little top ridge in the cyc. and reuse the piston in spec, all had one of their piston to break into before we got 10,000 miles on them. After that we put all new piston in the rest of the rebuilds without any more pistons breaking. The pistons of today last a lots longer than the 1960"s did. The cost of new pistons compared to another rebuild time and money we found out was well worth the extra cost. You do a real go job on you videos. Just a little info on the 1960"s Ford 352 that we learned the hard way. Back then buying another used engine would soon have to be rebuilt any way. I have replaced several Toyota engines with used engines with 180,000 miles on them that looked really good. 300,000 miles with regular oil change and engine upkeep is just a good starting point for some of todays engine.
enjoy your videos - learned a lot! Great refresher course for me. Keep up the good work. My brother is a machinist and I've watched him use the telescopic bore gauge many times. He spreads the gauge wider than the bore then snugs the knob gently. Slide the gauge in to the bore at an angle then gently rock it over the opposite direction until it becomes loose and moves past the center point and carefully lift it out of the bore. Because of the tension on the telescopic portion of the gauge it will find the exact center of the bore and stay at that length (the widest diam. of the bore) so it can accurately be measured with a caliper or Micrometer. Hopefully I explained that clearly enough but you can see how it works if you leave the telescoping portion loose and rock it back and forth in the bore you will notice that it adjusts itself to the width depending on the angle of the handle in relation to the cylinder wall. The trick is that when the handle is tightened up slightly the telescoping portion will only collapse as far as it needs to as it is rocked over center and it will stay at that length so it then indicates the true diameter of the bore. Take care and thanks again for a great channel!
Nice to see people handing out solid advice and info for the diy crowd. I'm an ASE and Hyundai Master tech and sometimes have to cringe at what I read online. I've also done the Yahoo Answers thing and helped a lot of people fix issues that only a Hyundai guy would know, but it became too frustrating when people would "thumbs down" me and tell me I'm wrong and then proceed to hand-out their Haynes troubleshoot advice.
I applaud you and others like you. Not so much the guys showing how to sand a cylinder head to remove warpage, lol.
Cheers!
-Troy
tj86xj Many Thanks man, sounds like you and I have identical experiences from the past. Glad to see another person who underatands the frustration of "dilution".
I'm really appreciative for your advice in the last video in this series, I have an AMC 401 with pretty hardcore knock, it was my logical conclusion that I could just drop the oil pan, pull the cap, replace the bearing, presto chango, problem solved, and internet commandos and a few youtube videos seemed to validate this. So much so that your input on it, and the fact that NO ONE who was even semi-professional said this was a good idea, made me change my approach. For now, the engine runs, the vehicle works and I don't have the money or time for a rebuild, but I can wait for it. Or find another engine.
When measuring an OD (outer diameter) with calipers you need to hold the calipers different than what you showed in the video (hold them flat to the top of the piston, not 90 degrees out). You'll never get an accurate measurement the way you did in the video.
You can also measure ID (inner diameter) with the calipers as well (with the smaller jaws on the opposite side), although you may get an erroneous measurement in this application since the piston rings don't wear all the way up to the top of the bore. Telescoping gauges are tricky to use as well. Might be a good idea to make friends at the machine shop and get them to show you how to measure stuff with different tools.
I enjoy your videos, thanks for taking the time to make them!
There is a way to check your bore AND piston, but it involves doing so BEFORE removal.
Basically, with the engine upside-down and the crankshaft removed, use a feeler gauge and measure the distance between piston and bore. That should be in spec -- and doing so at the top/bottom (y-axis) and side-side can tell you if the bore is out of round.
This is, of course, after measuring the piston head (after cleaning off the carbon) and getting an accurate measurement on the diameter of the piston head.
Having both measurements -- the data -- can help you determine cylinder integrity before removal. And, you can use those measurements if, as with this 352, there is damage to the bore, piston, or both.
Just a thought.
Sir,
First off. The comment below me..disregard it, as I know you already have done so. Some people...! Any way, just wanted to give you a sincere thank you for the time you take out to make these videos. There is so much knowledge I have gained by simply watching you in action, and listening to your technical explanations. I never get tired of increasing my knowledge on automotive. It's just so fascinating! Thank you again Sir.
+Christopher Schemer Thanks for the comment! Lucky asshats like the guy below you (literally and figuratively) represent less than .1% of the reaction to this channel- but they are fun to toy with lol.
+Schrodinger's Box Quantum Mekanix
Sir,
Question off topic. Have you ever seen a Ford Taurus with over 380,000 miles before? Last year I had to put down my 92 Taurus. Had her since 74,000 miles (Given to me by ex-girlfriends mom)..and got her to 380k. Original engine(one rebuilt trans). I tried to get her to 400,000. Head gasket blew. Just curious.
Christopher
+Christopher Schemer I have never seen any car with 380K miles. The highest mileage vehicle I have seen was 310K and it was a chevy blazer. I have seen quite a few vehicles of all makes and models with 280K-300K miles, but probably none had original engines and/or transmissions including the aforementioned blazer.
Nice..I guess I did reallt good job maintaining her. RELIGIOUS OIL CHANGES/ ALONG WITH ENGINE RESTORER. Also to note...I watched the Odometer turn over three times. I truly had a sentimental connection with "The Tank". I gave a military "Taps" send off. I'm in the military, and she drove me to my three deployment departure locations, and sat waiting for me three separate years and always returned to service, no issues once I returned. HOOAH!.. Currently watching one of your "How to remove an engine " series Part2". Can't sleep lol.
Matter of fact my profile picture has her in the background.
You are now one of my go to channels, I love your focus on theory, don’t change. Ironically I am quite certain that many of my other favourite channels would drive you mad.
The best opening scene on any of your videos Matt, couldn't stop laughing. On a serious note you are of course sadly 100 % correct. Thankfully there are people like you who understand automotive systems and how they work and better still can actually diagnose the fault without breaking the bank! A pleasure to watch your videos as always.
+mrghiax Thanks man glad you got the humor- though all joking aside I agree- when it comes to cars 98% of people are just idiots
+Schrodingers Box Not just cars.
+Schrodingers Box the math says that 50% of people are average, aka not smart, not dumb.
So....................
Jacob Cragen Average IS dumb though. We have severely dropped the expectation of "average".
Schrodingers Box Oh. My. Gosh.
Did we just trip out or something?
'cuz the definition I gave is correct, the average are normal aka not dumb not smart.
but on a global scale, that 50% are literally mentally handicapped with IQ's less than 80. So Oh. My. Gosh.
Have you noticed that every 4 years you have to go and give away your freedom or someone else will do it for you?
I don't vote, 'cuz I'm not a moron. I don't want someone else to Govern me, aka rule my life.
It only make sense that, if you need to be Governed, you buy some Government. and if you think about it - anyone who votes that someone else live their life does need someone else to live their life, cuz ohemgeelolololroflmfao. but how did we get to where the stupid people get to give away my life?...
this man speaks truth +1 . I find the hardest part working on my own cars is diagnosing systems or noises . I had a 1jzgte soarer with a bad rattle that i was so sure was in the head . Took it to a friend of mine and after 3 seconds told me my flexi plate was cracked i was shocked its that diagnosis skill thats worth its wait in gold. i just stumbled across your channel today so refreshing. another name we have for them in New Zealand is muppets. They are the ones that point at my bov valve and say cool screamer pipe man. face palm any way thank you for all the work you put into these informative videos :)
Maaaaaan some people don't have good attention/ interest in engines/ physics and your videos are amazingly detailed and scientific. For those people it's easier to blame someone else other than admitting themselves! Thanks a lot for the great videos
Huge props to you for the intellectual honesty. I have more respect for someone that can admit they were wrong than someone that won't back down in the face of contrary arguments.
I prefer it when I am proven wrong because it will by definition be a learning experience for me.
Hey "Sheldon"- just stumbled in tonite, enjoyed the series- it was an entertaining and fresh delivery. Very scientifical.It was probly a long shot hoping to get by so cheaply. Given the vast improvements we've enjoyed with the automotive engine oil products, they really were poor back then, most of the v-8s were burning oil, ready for a rebuild by 100,000 miles- (also piston rings have come a long way since 1965). I really was surprised you were able to get all eight out in one piece- must have been lo milage motor or babied. You really can't do much with a V-8 for under 2k. Sometimes you can grab a 350 Chevy crate motor for $1600 w/ free shipping- and that's a deal comparo-wise.Just not what your looking for. Hope the owner can get her back on the road so he can enjoy that old pick up, she's a real beauty. Troll out.
+Mr Kevin Palmer Lol that's 100 references to Sheldon hahaha.... I need to start watching that show- I've never even seen it!
I was a small arms/artillery repairer in the Army. We used a pullover gauge and calipers to get bore diameters on cannon tubes. I'm not going to go into detail on how it is done. Everything is recorded so you can follow wear on the tube through it's service life. It just seems like the same would apply to a cylinder on an engine. Really good video. Some people in your comments are way to serious and have no sense of humor. I do gunsmithing now.
Wayne Bryant Agreed- measuring a bore is measuring a bore- whether a rifle bore, cylinder bore, or I am sure- a cannon bore. And under all circumstances it's for the exact same purpose- to ensure proper clearance for whatever passes through the bore- be it a bullet, cannonball, missile, or piston.
The concept is really not rocket science.
Thanks for your service btw- I have the highest possible respect and allegiance to men and women who serve or have served,
Thank you. I do not know how to send you pictures. My first car was a 71 Plymouth Sattelite with a 440. That was in 88. lol
Just found your channel. Great video. It was great to see you come back to squaring your piston ring in the bore with the piston for the T stick depth. When you started talking about the T stick and squaring it on the X and Y axis, the piston ring GAP is the anchor point on one side of the T Stick. The ring gap will always be the center of the apex of the arc on that side. Then, as you point out, you feel for the high spot of the other side. Makes it a little quicker with a reference point. - Old saying we have had for ever, "my tool work for me, I don't work for my tools". I could never justify the "dial indicator" versions of the T sticks., even though they are really cool..
I'm a ASE Certified mechanic. I'm NOT unemployed w/ 3 kids, LOL! Good 1. I just wanted to put in my 2 cents. In the 20+ years I've been in this trade, I've NEVER seen a pre- 80's motor that wasn't OK for rebuild. ( Unless, Ofcourse, as you have stated, its knocking). The tolerances on the old motors are NOT even in the same ballpark as today's motors are. With that said, that motor, other than the crank, is just fine for a re-ring kit, except for the crank. I'd be willing to bet a month's pay, that if you had the crank ground, complete re-ring kit w/ ALL new bearings AND oil pump, that motor would maintain at least 25 lbs of oil pressure at idle AND last many, many years to come. With ALL that said, YOU ARE SHOWING AND DOING THE REBIULD THE CORRECT WAY. But if that guy just wants the truck to drive for the next decade, ME personally, I'd re-ring the damn thing. Again, you are completely correct in what your doing as far as the CORRECT WAY to rebuild the motor. I'm not BASHING YOU! LOL. I love you videos and I'm still learning. And yes, I have learned a lot from you. So please, take it easy on me. :)
You make some great points. Old US domestics weren't built to spec like modern engines. It wasn't until Ford partnered with Mazda that Ford found out just how out of spec their manufacturing processes really were (video on RUclips by Ford engineers admitting to this). Still, there were specs and if it's out of those specs then that's really really bad right?
LOL, I read you Ron, I do. I only have 2 objections and they don't really rebut your point which I agree with 100%- no doubt the engine would have run with just a crank resurfacing and rings/bearings- you are correct.
My two objections are 1: just me personally, I have an issue with rebuilding an engine that would still be out of tolerance and maybe has lower compression etc just because it reflects on my work. I know you understand what I'm saying.
2: it would not reflect the channel's modus operandi which is to conclusively show things via scientific approach. Since pretty much assume the engine would run OK that's not good enough- we would have to be able to for example, predict exactly what the final compression would be and how much leakdown there would be, and have an idea of what tolerances ARE permissible so we can ensure we ended at those results, etc so we would have an available foundation on which to validate the rebuild reached our targets, even if the targets are out of specs.
Rebuilding an engine you know will have compression loss and leak down... ugh that would be painful to watch. Would make me die inside a little. :( I really don't want to see that.
I agree with this as well. This engine will probably never rev more than 4K and is completely under-stressed. Any old engine that has run on a diet of 60s 70s or 80s oil will be worn like that ant any rate so most likely a used engine will be internally no better.
In the old days you used to be able to get pistons expanded to compensate for bore ware.
I cannot see why over spec bore ware will loose compression as long as the bore is not oval or the rings are improperly gaped as the rings keep. (or course the ridge has to be removed)
Andrew Thompson Andrew it seems to me that the bore wear would necessarily cause loss of compression due to the excessive ring gaps which are well over 4 times spec. Whether its' through the ring gap or just past the rings and cylinder, I can definitely assure you that the leakdown test confirmed massive leak past the rings and in fact was further confirmed by a wet test with oil in the cylinder.
Pistons have to leave the foundry, much less the machine shop, out of round. Pistons are exposed to heat at their tops because of combustion heat and cooling at the skirts because of oil splash. Thus they almost always have a taper from top to bottom to allow for expansion. The dimension across the wristpin will always be true, as this is not a wear surface, the skirts to the inside (intake side) and outside (exhaust side) are the places to check clearance because they represent the major thrust surface (exhaust side skirt) and the minor thrust surface (intake side). You really need the inside bore measuring gauge and you really need to measure six points (bottom parallel, bottom cross ways, mid par, mid cross, top par, top cross) of the bore to get this right. Pistons don't matter unless they're fragged or gouged too deep to polish out.
Is it not correct that pistons when cold are oval to take account of expansion of the wrist pin bosses? So if you were to use the feeler gauge method the gauge should be parallel to the pin and using the top of the piston as the piston skirts do wear, hence piston slap. Not having a go at you as I know what it is like, just following the logic and the discussion, cheers.
Andy Reynolds I don't know if they are or not but it is irrelevant since the cylinder to piston clearance was clearly out of spec anyway
The way to use the gauge is; put it in the bore and have it slightly off perpendicular (5 degrees). Then you tighten the knurling on the end. You need to have it very tight. Then using two fingers only on the very end of the handle, pull the handle thru perpendicular.
Note: The measuring end will find the widest part of the bore automatically.
Then to check the bore size.
Get your very-nears and close them just smaller than the gauge. Then swipe the gauge through perpendicular inside the verniers. They will open up to the same size as the gauge.
Note: put a bit of oil on the ends of the gauge to help it move thru the bore
I've used this method and have proven it to be extremely accurate.
I didnt want to have to type all that. So thank u
Or use a od mic rather than calipers. Od mics are more accurate to the tenth of a thousanths
I was just getting ready to explain the use of the bore gauge but you guys beat me to it. It's a little difficult to explain but you guys are correct in the use. I've been a machinist for 40 years and have used that type of bore gauge many times. They do work but should be used with a micrometer instead of the dial verniers. My preferred method is with a dial bore gauge and yes they are more expensive but more accurate. Either method will work.
I'm a former tech and I find your videos informative and detailed. It's a good review of the stuff I learned in trade school and more. Don't worry about the critics. I started watching more engine building videos bc, I unfortunately blew a head gasket on my 09 Mazda 6 with coolant in the crankcase. I am undecided on buying a used engine and not sure what the best solution is. There seems to be a lot of engine scams out there and you're not sure what you're getting. I bought the car new and not sure if I should just inspect the engine and maybe do a partial rebuild, replacing bearings, etc., since you may have to do that on a used one anyway. Any advice? You did mention rebuild costs wind up adding up once you get into it...
First off, I think that this video series is one of the best I have watched on the topic. Thank you very much for making them for us. Now, I am sure you are aware that this block very likely is NOT a paperweight. I understand the budget constraints. However, and please correct me if I am wrong because I am learning here, unless there is a crack somewhere in the block, it can be rebored several times over. So, while it may not be within your friend's budget, the block itself is perfectly capable of being rebuilt for someone who actually has the budget to do the machine work. I just wanted to clarify that point. Please, do not take that as criticism of you. I only believe that your words needed some clarification.
+Nathan Hickson Yes with extensive machine work the block could be overbored but also remember the crank journals were toasted so now we need those as well and the rods and caps ground... no way man, way out of the budget
Your channel works. It is possible that your info is better than the "manuals" if for no other reason, because you put it in the order of which it is better understood, atleast by me. And for those ADA "must turn nuts" people, realize that hands on is often less than 25% of knowing what you are doing. Without the knowledge of "why" the ability to put it in place would not exist! Keep up the great work!
Like you, I also have the telescope type gauge so I agree on the difficulty with getting accurate measurements. While there is no question this particular engine is "out of spec" to the point it needs to be bored, whenever I have had a block measured by a machinist, they are ALWAYS concerned with the bore measurement "at the bottom" of the cylinder since that's where the most wear occurs due to the fact that the piston changes direction there as the crank goes through its rotation. This area is almost always worn "oval" as well for those same reasons. All I'm trying to say is if you measure only at the top of the cylinder on a motor and turn up a "max" spec measurement, it may be "out of spec" at the bottom of the bore since they commonly wear "more" as well as "oval" in that area since the crank is trying to pull and drive the piston sideways down at the bottom of the bore.
Considering that you were measuring 'above' the ring travel , you are basically measuring the bored diameter . .. which appears to be .010 over stock. * Plus the honing *
Telescope gauges center themselves , providing you use the correct size gauge. The 'actual ' worn bore diameter is likely varied & tapered, which requires several measurements at different depths of the bore : top , middle, and bottom of piston travel.
( Agreed, that a dial caliper is a bit more awkward to use , compared to a micrometer . . . but can be done with a bit of diligence ! ) It takes a lot of practice to acquire the correct 'feel' for using telescope gauges . . . persistence pays off in very repeatable results .
Really enjoyed the videos. Hope to do a budjet rebuild this summer on my 90 chevy ck2500 TBI. The body and interior are like new . The truck has a little over 100,000 but uses a quart of oil every 100 miles. need to perform the leak down test to aee if its the heads or pistons. What video is that on? Thanks for sharing you're knowledge with us.
Old video I know, was it possible that the old engine was already rebuilt once? Possible bored or honed once and factory pistons re-used, or possibly pistons replaced with the wrong sizes during said previos rebuild?
As far as piston to bore clearance. From my understanding isn't the piston smaller at the very top to account for the extra expansion at the very top. I thought that piston sizing should be taken from the wrist pin area. Thus it would show less of a gap. I really enjoy your videos. Mush appreciate all the work gone into them. I'm currently in the middle of a Mercedes v8 rebuild and really enjoying the process.
Dear Mr. Schrodinger,
I am not a rebuild engine expert, and have a few questions on your measurements;
1. Was your ring gap and cylinder bore measurements done up in the carbon ridge area, or further down in the bore where the rings would wear the bore?
2. Wouldn't ring gap be affected by ring wear? (ie using a worn ring show an increase gap vs a new ring.)
3. Would a round feeler gauge be better to measure piston to bore clearance, and would that reading have to be divided by 2 since the piston is centered in the bore?
I stumbled on your site by accident, and find it very interesting, as I have a car in need that has been sitting since the mid 70's. You answered a question about replacing just the bad rod bearing. I remember a neighbor of a high school friend that would do that in his Pontiac in the early 60's, but don't know the longevity of the results. Since I am getting old, I forgot the last thing I was going to say, so will close. Thanks for taking the time to reach out to help. How about turning the rebuild into an engine swap for a late model Mustang motor and transmission? Oh yeah, maybe my questions will never be answered because you are done with the series. tc, Wes Pitrman
Your attitude towards those that upset you is why you are getting a thumbs down. The information you are providing on the other hand is very valuable, to cars with no computers........
Haynes Manual Jockey ,LOL It is very hard to do a video and hit on every point. I think you do a great job on your videos . As far as tools ,sometimes you just have to work with what you have and be creative .
Omg! That opening! So much yes!!! I deal with people/customers like that all the time! That Scotty reference puts the icing on the cake! (My current "customer" thinks his word is gods )
Really glad I bought a dial bore gauge cause its about 10x faster to take all the necessary measurements at different spots by rocking back and forth. That didn't stop me from hand honing and re-assembling an engine with cylinders at the service limit though. Kinda scared to do my compression test today.
Piston skirt damage occurs with such things as worn wrist pins, thrust bearing runout and bent crank and crank bearings. I ran into more of that doing snowmobile repair. Here in Northern Mi, its a big thing. I did well on building performance engines. I gave that up too,Cancer stopped me from ever doing that again. Now I mostly do lawn mowers,weed eaters,snow blowers etc.
You had a procedure that works and you validated it with scientific reasoning. Well done.
Enjoying your videos. Thanks for taking the time to put them together. One question though... You state at 12:45 that if you measure the piston to be in spec but the piston to bore is out of spec then the cylinder MUST be out of spec. What if the piston is in spec but just borderline (on the narrow side), and the cylinder is in spec (on the large side). Couldn't this cause the piston to bore spec to be out? ...or is the piston to bore spec a sum of the piston spec and cylinder spec at their most worn safe spec so as long as both piston and cylinder are in spec the piston to bore must be in spec? Thanks
When I first started working on my own cars 25 years ago (I was just a teenager), I religiously went out and bought the Haynes manuals, thinking that was the thing to do. But once I actually got into the job, I realized all too often that the "Haynes Way" didn't have much logic behind it, and oftentimes actually made the job alot harder than it needed to be. Oh, and they're also infamous for leaving out critical details. They make for a pretty good doorstop, though.
Loved your opener! Its so truthful! I never give advice on line on automobiles. Its best to take a vehicle in and have a qualified mechaniv like Eric O look at it and actually do a diagnostic analysis on it. Todays engines are a total different animal. Gone are the days of shade tree mechanics. If you dont have the proper diagnostics equipment,keep your hands off the hood. It ends up costing more in the long run because that mechanic has to back track what you did to it,then look for the actual problem. Sometimes the actual problem would have been obvious to the experienced mechanic saving you time and money,but nope,you went in and replaced a poop load of parts that didnt even have anything to do with the problem in the first place( by you, I ment the idiot that owns the car,then brings it to you). I quit working on cars except my own years ago. Now I do small engine repair,less stress and easier to work on. 90 percent of my repairs are fuel related,thank you ethanol fuel.
Great closing statement,I would rather....., then on to the heads....You will find those snap gauges are very accurate and useful once you get the hang of them! I didn't watch the video that was posted on their use, but I am sure you will get the feel .....
Hey man, I watch Scotty's videos, too. I'll admit his videos are not in-depth enough to teach a novice how to perform a repair unless the repair is on a Toyota or Lexus, but when I lacked a foundation in auto mechanics, Scotty's videos were a good intro to get me immersed in the subject.
Your hair is to Scotty's hair what Scotty's camera work is to your camera work.
Hahahaha well that last comment was so clever I can't really come up with a rebuttal. Touché bro- that is hilarious!
Throwing shade at Scotty!! I'm subscribed! great intro dude! I would need that piston to be dead center to trust the feeler gauge method.
Nobody can be right every time, and because you can admit that I am gonna keep watching!
you're a smart dude. If ppl are offended by what you say they are one of them. if we grew up in the same hood we'd hang out. thanks for keeping it real.
I think you it will be interesting to find out how it will ending with a serious problem like that and not with question of money. I learn so much the way you doing thing and I really want to know what you will do to fix all the problem because we could be facing on day with the same issue and with your expertise I would f eel more secure to face it Thank's Matt
Nice follow-up video. I learned that measuring wear in pistons, bores, and rings requires tools that are reliably accurate to a thousandth of an inch across the x and y axes while accounting for level in the z axes.
Sandbag1300 Yeah as you see I learned that too lol!!! Honestly, for a minute there I really thought I blew $50 on that bore indicator set!! But it did work out when I eliminated the Z axis error. I do think I'll eventually invest in a dial indicator bore gauge though.
also reddit has a bunch of those haynes fanboys, it's even worse there since there are upvotes and downvotes for comments.
three years ago i asked a question about an old car I had, in which everything electronic was rigged to hell by previous owner (it was my first car), and there was a wire that was going to the relay that powers the fuel pump as I found out later, and of course a gas smell that I found out later was a rusted out fuel line. I went through cleaning injectors, o-rings, manifold gaskets, changing plugs as suggested by the comments, only to find out after closely inspecting everything that it was an electrical issue. (although that didn't really hurt, as the car was from 87, barely ever maintained)
I fixed it later, but learning to diagnose these things yourself is much beneficial than asking a question about it on discussion sites, or watching scotty kilmer pushing some product he has been paid to promote, or fixing a headgasket leak with a "sealing fluid". It's usually the popular videos that seem to be more quantity over quality.
I appreciate how in depth these videos are, rather than changing brake pads/spark plugs or "saving the hard labor for the shop". Keep it up man
Speed square on the cylinder head lined up the the handle on the spring gauge will help you keep that puppy nice and square. Also, being that your spring gauge always has pressure pushing out, a little oil in the cylinder on the walls will help the gauge push its way to center on it's own. I've never actually tried it but in theory it sounds like it would work or at least help with future measurements. Good luck and looking forward to Pt. 5.
Have you measured all the sleeves to see if all the cylinders have similar wear? Love the videos, really helpful advice 👍
the engine probably failed because the tire went flat and leaked all the cooler out of the air conditioner tripping the sensor for the that old 1960s fuel injector pump....
great videos, and thank you for calling these people out
+towel7872 My guess is the engine failed cause this man worked on it in the past..
+James Scruggs As mentioned numerous times in the series, James, the engine is original and no major service was performed prior.
This tool is a telescoping inside gauge. Put it in the bore lightly tightened oversize and make the cylinder push it in. It is common practice to measure 5 times and take the largest diameter. As a cheapo way I've seen oversize pistons in engines that we didn't rebore, but someone more experienced than me said do it it will work. To me I would only be guessing It might just turn that block into a more expensive boat anchor.
You're an honorable, inelegant and entertaining man! I wish there were more of "US" in our country...it takes one to know one. Keep up the great work and I look forward to more of your wit and humor. Thanks!!!
bemyers123 Thanks, glad you get the humor, not everyone does!
Hi, Can we take it then, a cold engine will have different piston/bore clearances to that of an engine at normal running temperature. I seem to remember in saloon car racing engines were over bored to allow for heat expansion so they didn't cease up.
First 1:28 made me a subscriber for life. The struggle is real and extremely frustrating sometimes. Oh wow I got a couple of honorable mentions. Pretty neat. I think you went about proving your hypothesis quite nicely this video. You backed it up with measurements and facts, that's the Schrodingers Box we know and love. Great job. Looks like this project is going to be a no go. Ask the owner if they'd like to make a coffee table out of it? That seems to be a popular way bad engines can remain around the owner for life in a decorative way. I take it that sleeving isn't going to work here and it's a cheaper/better option to find a replacement at this point?
LOL Glad you "get it" Devon. I used to hang in the automotive chat room trying to help people like I do now but I got so frustrated because my responses are drowned out by the Haynes jockeys and obviouslyu no one even bothered to read my answers since they were rather lengthy and of course seldom exactly mentioned a part to change.
Unfortunately at this point our only viable alternative is to seek a used engine, thus no longer matching the numbers which my friend wanted- his ultimate dream is to someday after retirement really restore the truck completely.
Schrodingers Box I don't think we have to worry about the Haynes manual jockey making it down to this video. The video series starts with a lot of views, but the number has gone down a lot as we get farther into the series.
I use telescoping gauges alot at my work, I'm not sure if anyone has brought this up. the trick to the measurement is a roll. set the gauge to larger than bore, place the gauge in at an angle with one end deeper than the other. tighten the knob, then roll the lower end up past level. it will roll into the widest point and keep that measurement. you can also use an inside micrometer.
DONT WORRY ABOUT THE PEANUT GALLERY. YOUR SERIES RATES 5 STARS
This is a great series on engine rebuilding - I'm not sure why I've not discovered it before. I don't actually do engine rebuilds; I stumbled upon this video after watching the 'impersonation of an asshat' clip at the beginning. Hilarious!
Our minds are good at recognizing patterns, so I think that knowing from experience is valid. So it isn't really fair to call it illogical.
I think you did a good job explaining throughout the other videos the relationship between the wear of different engine components. I got the impression that you were suspicious of cylinder wear problem from the beginning of the project, and the final measurements seem to confirm the analysis you gave throughout.
the largest diameter on a piston is near the bottom of the skirt, this is because the top gets hotter while running and must have more room to expand. the correct place to measure pistons is just above the bottom of the skirt. also, I'd recommend some micrometers for measurement. you can get a set from harbor freight that's accurate to a couple tenths of a thou
Im planning an engine rebuild and after watching your videos ive decided to postpone it for a few months, this is for two main reasons, 1. Its nearly winter in the uk and the air is really damp. 2. I need to learn more about what i should be checking for during the strip process, im certainly not scared of getting down and dirty which i exactly why i need to hang back and learn more. But anyways my question (one of millions) is, when i pull the head, how will i know if it needs skimming? And should it be done before any valve work or after? I've seen people check with a feeler gauge and steel rule but is that accurate enough?
What do you think about cutting new valve seats and reusing old but good valves? Machine shop offered me that option and I'm a bit concerned...
I’m new to this channel. My observation on the cylinder measurement question is this: Does the feeler gauge bend with the cylinder or does it go in straight? If it doesn’t bend, that is another error issue. Love the channel.
It bends with the cylinder curvature
One other method in determining if the cyl. bore is over sized is to note if there is a ridge at the top of the cyl. bore. If there is no ridge then it may be safe to say the bore is not worn.
I agree with you!. Thanks for your time for making all the videos! 👍👊
Would have been a good idea to take the opening of the ring as a reference to position the gauge at the center of the cylinder?
Hey buddy. Love your videos! Just a tip, you're using your T-Bore Gauge wrong. Used correctly they are "technically" more accurate than a dial.
Clean the bore and the tool. Put it in, and hold it off axis at an angle, and tighten the knurl (so right now it's too wide for the bore). Now straighten your handle compressing the gauge, and continue until you feel it fall through the diameter.
If you do it this way, the tool finds the largest diameter automatically and is very accurate.
Cheers from Arkansas!
Thanks but there is not possible way a bore gauge can be more accurate than a dial due to the standard deviation created by the variable of nonfoundational positioning.
Schrodingers Box "Not the way you're using it!" says I in friendly jest. Anyway, I'm here to learn, and I'm learning a lot so thank you again.
I have acquired a 1958 Apache and 3 Chevy 235's. This video series I hope will allow me to choose the best engine among them.
Well if you are more skilled using a T-Bore than I am, good for you. I mean, this is the internet after all. EVERYBODY tells me they are more skilled than I am.
But to say it is *intrinsically* more accurate than the dial indicator is still wrong, regardless.
Thanks for watching though- glad you're getting some value.
you need a feeler gauge on both sides of the piston, either that or divide your reading by two when measuring. If you measure with only one, you aren't measuring the gap on both sides, but the total of both sides.
Hi , diagnosis king,
I am one of those 2%. :)
Even i am not a auto engineer but a home DIYer of all repairs in my bikes and cars.
Saw you struggle using that telescopic measurement tool.
But i think i got a idea to measure the bore with a technique.
Y not measure the circumference of ring added the length of max filler gauge thickness inserted in that gap and add up and calculate the diameter?
Hope i am wrong if rings are not perfectly parallel but thanks you have a trick to do that.
You can also do a trick here.
If the stock diameter is 4inch. Calculate the circumference and cut a thin sheet (may be from your soda can) with that circumference and curve it up and see any gap persists .
I may be absolutely wrong just shared my thought.
The problem with this idea is there is no way to tell the amount of wear on the ring you are starting with so you cannot determine the additional thickness needed to set the caliper. It might work with a brand new ring, but you wouldn't buy a new ring set until you know the diameter of the bore first.
yeah, you are correct! thanks for replying.
hope to see more videos.
I ran a shop for years until my health made me stop. I still work on things from time to time albeit slowly and painfully. LOL
I always got a kick out of kids I'd run in to in the parts store who were getting ready to...."build" a hot engine...Two out of three of them were going to put....dual 750 double pumpers on their Iron crank, two bolt three fifty with a mild cam and some cheapo headers...Of course most of them did no such thing, Except...this one kid who actually tried it. He told me, It turned out just like you said it would...:D
hey im a diesel mechanic for the army, and ive got some prior shop experience but i was wondering if you could give me your opinion. theres a 87 chevy r30 dually on craiglist with 89k miles. the guy is selling because the heads are warped from blown head gasket. i think with the low miles and dually and goose neck that they probably towed like a rv or something. would there be anything the warped heads couldve damaged on the rest of the block? with the low miles i dont wanna do a full rebuild but maybe find some junkyard heads and make it work on a budget. thank you.
Your intro to this video was absolutely beautiful and spot-on accurate! Your assessment of the zeitgeist you described so perfectly, is the reality of our nation. Sadly, this problem of ignorance isn't unique to the "Haynes armchair critiques." The ignorance and inability of logical deduction through empirical evidence of our nation's populace is at truly epidemic ratios, and when you examine this systemic mental disorder in the context of politics and religion it's prevalence and implications will either scare you to alcoholism or scare you to sobriety.
Anyway, this is just a note to say keep on "keepin' on" with your videos and your style!
Thanks bro. Yes I know many, many people like that and before I started doing my own car repairs I actually depended on people like that because I didn't know a radiator from a gas cap. I really hate people that just spew complete bullshit anyway, but I really, really hate it when they do it at the expense of others who really need good direction and help.
I don't dislike novices- I love them- I just dislike novices who just have to make up for it by giving their lame advice and diluting the resources of knowledgeable/experienced people out there.
Schrodingersbox, i recently bought a 2006 jeep commander with the 3.7 liter engine. I bought it with a bad rear differential, so i was told. The pinion bearing was bad replaced and all was good until oil pressure dropped to zilch. I am a proffesional tech, and quickly shut the engine off. Dropped oil pan and found that the pickup tube screen was plugged. Repaired and oil pressure returned to normal. Now shortly after engine started a rattle/tick noise. Always had a harsh rattle on start up, so planned on rebuilding anyways just wanted to test drive and verify transmission operation and my rear end repair all is well with both. Ok so i removed the engina and am about halfway through the teardown. I have located the issue, wich was one of the timing chain tensioners. The poly guides are also sbot easy fix. Now my question is do i continue to tear the rest of the engine down? Pistons are clean as a whistle, hardly any carbon. No ridge on cylinder walls, and hone cross hatch is very present, everything turns freely in the bottem end with no binding. Im not trying to ask stupid question just looming for advice as i am on a strict budget and trying to repair as cheap as possible. Now if you recommend the continue teardown, and i find everything in spec at the minimum what do you advise i should replace?
Mike Mcleod It is hard to say based on this, my bet is you are just fine. Whenever I have any doubts on an engine's condition, my modus operandi is to pull a rod cap furthest from the oil pump and assess the bearings and crank journal as my "worst case scenario" for the condition of other bearings/journals in the engine. I make my call based on the condition I observe with that test alone.
Thanks for the quick reply, i agree will puul the rod cap and check bearings, after watching your videos tonight, i relaized i should have done a compression check before pulling the engine, but had no concerns because it ran flawlessly just the noise bothered me. As it is right now with buying the vehicle i only have $700 into it. The cheapest used engine with decent mileage ran about $2100. I really enjoyed your videos and thank you for sharing your wisdom with people.
Mike Mcleod Maybe you have compressed air and can do leakdown test? I prefer it over compression anyway.
Seriously though- I bet you are fine. Don't worry about it too much.
Thanks for comments about Haynes manuals!!! Btw, where to get good advice about cars? I go to used bookstores and look for pre 1970 stuff. Always good.
I use practical experimentation to gain personal experience, myself. I never ask others for advice though- especially on the internet.
Budget Rebuild, Free Puppy, Ufo, Big Foot. People WILL! Forget how much money you saved them. Your good name rides every job.
+fdegeorge2000 lol well stated!
good videos. I dont think you can emphasize the costs of rebuilds enough, especially with an older motor. Just too many unknown variables.
I dont know if its possible with this particular block, but have you considered resleeving it? Obviously, it would be another huge added expense and it would probably be a lot cheaper just to buy a replacement motor at this point. But not knowing how attached your friend is to the motor all I can say is good luck.
Based on this series of videos I went searching for a local machine shop to check out proximity, services, and prices. In reading through some of the sites I learned that if the worn cylinder bore has a lip at the top that can be felt with human hands/fingernails the cylinder has to be bored to the next size. So, if that is correct I would think that would definitively, and inexpensively, answer the cylinder bore wear question, right?
I agree with this actually- especially for an "untrained" finger test. My machinist literally can feel across an entire cylinder head and feel .002" of warp- absolutely amazes the hell out of me. but in general, yes, in the world of engine internals if you can feel it, it most likely needs machining. of course on this channel we need more substantial an quantifiable data though.
Could the piston and cylinders be designed to be to be more oval shaped to begin with? I only know of one other car they did that with, and it was apparently a 8 cylinder designed to be a 4 cylinder on a ford that never made it to perduction. It was mainly made to be able to use a v8 I'm the 4 cylinder events?
Here is a good one for you. Change all the bearing, main as well as connecting rods. Car was running find for a while, but then I started to hear knock/ rattling like sound while the car is in idle once it got up to operating temperature. When I give it gas it goes away. Question what do you think is the cause of this?
See me video engine noise diagnosis. It covers this and shows how to diagnose.
Don't mean to "shortcut" the diagnosis video since this is nothing more than a "wild guess" and totally anecdotal. I had a similar experience on my first engine rebuild. After about 10,000 miles, I had a knock at idle that also seemed to go away with acceleration. It sounded just like bad mains. Turned out to be a loose balancer. Very likely due to the fact that, since I was young and poor at the time, I didn't have a "puller" for the balancer when I disassembled the motor and "drove" the balancer off the end of the crank. ;o(
Im looking to buy an american car to restore as a project, as I am from Liverpool, UK, what would you suggest I get that I can easily find parts for? I like mustangs an charger style cars, learning a lot from your videos Matt, you make it simple to learn
It depends... if you're looking to rebuild a sports car and find parts at salvage yards on the cheap, that is considerably more challenging than building up say a Ford Explorer or a Chrysler Sebring or another "common, everyday car" where you will trip over more parts than you'll ever need for those models.
If you're looking to do a build using aftermarket parts or parts through trade shows or whatever- it will of course be more expensive but there are several "favorable" models. The mustang is certainly one. Old pontiacs are another- there are quite a few Pontiac restore businesses around (I use Hawks for my own car, Ames is another. Other common restores where you'll pretty easily find aftermarket parts are Chevelles, Challengers, etc.
You'll run into problems on the more rare builds, especially if you want to really retain OEM as much as possible. This usually applies to specific models and years that are particularly historic. a 1969 GTO Judge for example. Roadrunners are also ones where you'll spend more time searching than building.
Just a quick question/observation, Although a bit irrelevant after watching the whole video.(I hope you don't mind)
The tolerance for the piston to bore is around the whole diameter of the piston.
So do you not need a feeler at multiple points to show the clearance?
Otherwise you are pushing the piston over to one side, Where a piston ring would normally take the slack and thus showing a larger gap at the feeler while the other end has 0 clearance.
Or am I being stupid? Also I hope this makes sense!
Thanks for the awesome video's!
RES1080p I understand what you are saying and you are correct. The piston to bore clearance spec considers this fact. In other words, if the piston were to be perfectly centered when measuring the clearance, the clearance spec would be halved. You are also right that there is no need whatseoever to measure at different points. If one is out of spec, all of them are. I only did that to show different camera angles to ensure the camera detected what I was doing. It appeared it wasn't showing clearly what I was doing.
Schrodingers Box Excellent, I did not realise how the spec was given.(makes much more sense to me now) I would also like to add, I really like how you've done your channel, It definitely stands apart from the run of the mill youtube stuff you usually see. I also like how you explain everything in detail and merge science & mechanics seamlessly (The way it should be! :) ) On another note and maybe for others to see, In England we call the Haynes manual the Haynes book of lies - With good reason there is a degree of misinformation. use it as a rough guide to help, yes but don't rely on it and use your brain and common sense,use multiple references if necessary and if in doubt ask someone that actually knows what they are doing! I'd recommend anyone that's interested in learning to get a scrap engine and take to it with some wrenches this gives you a zero risk of ruining something way of getting started with rebuilds.Using this series of videos for reference.
Just a small note to make it clear, I don't condone the use of Haynes manuals, you would be better of using this series of vids showing the steps and getting hold of the engine specs from somewhere else..
Thanks Again For The Great Video's!
RES1080p Great comment and thanks for watching!
One more nit to pick is that when checking the bore, a pin gauge rather than a flat feeler gauge should have been used but that is a mighty small nit LOL. . Sorry, 30+ years as a aircraft tooling inspector is rearing it's ugly head. I was going to recommend spring telescope gauges but you got to it first :P. The video feed crashed on me so I only got 2/3 through the video. Care needs to be taken when using the ring in the bore method is to go far enough down the bore to find the wear, too high in the bore and you get an error as you are above the wear zone. Multiple readings down the bore really should be done. Often when close is "good enough" we have used blue masking tape to build up surfaces. It is remarkably consistent in thickness and if care is taken to not overlap at the junction of the ends of the tape, you could build up the OD of the piston in a long enough section to keep it square to the bore by fit alone for placing your compression ring. That is another low dollar way to approach the situation. If you covered this, my apologies, I did not get to see all the video.
Just asking: when you put your feeler gauge beside the piston shouldn't you divide the number by two because you are compressing the piston to one side and in real life it will run in the middle with the rings around it?
If taken from a strictly compression standpoint, wouldnt it be possible to lose compression because the grooves in the piston that the rings sit it get worn? Ive never rebuilt an engine. I dont know a whole about the process but you got my wheels turning. I am about to tear down a L134 from a 1946 Willys Jeep that my grandpa used to own and Im trying to learn as much as possible
+BUCKSLAYER There is a spec for the piston ring groove clearance but I've never seen that be a cause or even be out of spec in fact.
Great explanation. Even if the piston was worn (and not the bore) you would still have needed to fit new pistons, as the bore piston combo would have been out of spec.
Don't sweat the comment silliness-keep making the videos (and thanks for making these)
fyi, you always measure a piston across the skirt, not the ring lands, and at at least 3 points in the bore between the ring travel, plus you want to thoroughly clean a used piston if you are going to use it to measure the clearance with a feeler gauge, plus that .008 total clearance measurement you got is divided by 2 . also they make 6" long feeler gauges made just for measuring piston to cylinder wall clearance. not to be overly critical because i appreciate your work , but as a veteran mechanic of 45 years i just thought i would share my opinions.
Does the Haynes Manual jockey use Mechanix or Harbor Freight gloves? Appreciate your honesty, your buddy is fortunate to have a friend like you.
Mechanix, Jimmy, of course!! Always Mechanix! Because that's what Stacy David wore in "TRUCKS!"
Schrodingers Box LOL! Oh no! That's my laughing response. I'm very specific about the gloves I wear. I've tried Mecahnix gloves. I've tried every glove L and XL available to me on the shelf and the "bore" clearance I expect was always out of spec. I filled a shopping cart full of gloves at Harbor Freight before I found gloves that fit. (I was nice, I put all the failed gloves back on the hook. :) )
Honestly, the bore clearance tended to be pretty good, but as to whether the fingers or piston head would clear the valves was the greater problem. (I have issues with space left between my finger and glove ends of you don't get the metaphor, lol)
I use those telescoping gauges often and I find that if you put the gauge (machinists call these "snap" gauges) in the bore with one end lower, wiggle it from side to side until it feels snug, tighten the gauge but don't lock it, only enough to prevent extension. Pull the gauge so that the lower end moves through the center line of the radius of the cylinder, do not move the other side. or simply pull i t back in other words. then tighten the gauge and measure it. When I measure with a micrometer I get little variation ( .0003 often less) over several measurements with this method.
Agreed that sounds reasonable. I can see where someone doing this work every day would also get a very solid feel for this tool. As I mentioned- I know of several machinists who can feel as little as .002" of warp on a cylinder head just by running their finger over it. Amazing!!
not only ur feeler gauge thickness. but the fact that your using a flat blade type gauge in a round hole. very very difficult to get proper measurement. get a bore indicator gauge. your awesome man. keep it up
Hi this is Niall I may have jumped into something I should have done but I am planning on rebuilding at 361 Ford engine and I don't think that there is a budget there what I am curious would this friend of mine be better off just putting another used engine in there or rebuilding this one I think it would be better to rebuild it because then you have a brand new engine compares to buying a used and you don't know what it is just wondering what you thought is it better to rebuild or just stick another used engine in because the rest of the truck is perfect shape
it depends on budget as well as availability of used engines, condition of available used engines and the intended use. 90% of the time on a regular every day passenger car “daily driver” I replace with a used engine. I can normally find them for around $500 and I can test them to make sure they have good compression and every indication they are in good health.
One question I have about the piston/bore clearance. If, (like camshafts and lifters) the piston and cylinder bore wear together, couldn't it be possible to arrive at an inaccurate measurement by inserting the piston upside down in its bore? Is it possible that when the piston is inserted as if it were connected to the crankshaft, you may find that the clearance is indeed within spec? Thank you
Good question but no- because The piston generally doesn't wear, the RING does. The piston to bore clearance is done without the ring in place.
Schrodingers Box Thank you!
Do you have to account for the unworn part of the cylinder at the top of the bore, the part that the piston rings don't quite reach as this would be at the original specification prior to wear?
truthseeker104 Yes and no- this "ridge" as it is known must be "reamed" otherwise the rings will break when trying to remove/insert the pistons. Needless to say, This happening when installing the pistons would be catastrophic. It doesn't have to be flush with the bore diameter where the piston travels, but the carbon buildup cannot be narrower than spec'd bore diameter.
If the bore diameter for piston travel region is within spec, it is not necessary to make the ridge flush with that measurement though. I do not machine cylinder bores that are within spec, I only hone them and honing does not flatten that ridge. I do however measure to ensure the ridge is not less than cylinder bore minimum width spec- that is crucial or you with almost certainly break the rings on re-install.
I guess that that even if the bore is in spec on an older engine there is still likely to be some distortion of the cylinder due to heat and wear which would to some extent shorten the life of new rings when installed. Based upon the idea that new components often don't last as long as the original because initially in a new engine the components "bed down" together. Thanks
Firstly, I like your videos and I like your sense of humor. But secondly, I want to say that I think you were too quick to accept fault in your measurements of the cylinder. I watched the videos in which you did the measurements and I thought it was slightly unorthodox to measure it the way you did, however it seems the most logical thing considering the tools you had available. Here is why I think you were fully justified in condemning the cylinder when you did. You measured the cylinder and found the piston and feeler gauge to fit very loosely. Then you rotated the piston and kept the feeler gauge in the same location relative to the piston and it became tight in the cylinder. This was essentially adding the thickness of the feeler gauge to the thickness of the piston and using it as a constant standard to location variation in your cylinder bore, which you did. You, sir, took the best and most logical approach given the circumstance and tools available and I say you correctly diagnosed that block in your last video.
Thanks, I thought it was clear diagnosis as well but I also "made my own bed" with my demeanor and criticism of poor thinking so I have a heightened responsibility to prove conclusively so I am still glad I did the actual bore gauge measurement but I agree with you, technically it wasn't necessary.
I’m rebuilding my wife’s grandfathers 65 mustang (now ours). I am pulling everything apart. Will take the engine to a machinist to get rebuilt. I keep seeing cost to be around $1600.... and you literally just answered in the video as I’m typing. Thank you... was going to ask if this is accurate.
Is there anything I should look for that would tell me the engine is not worth rebuilding?
$1600 sounds about right for a complete rebuild. For that price they should magnuflux it and tell you if additional issues appear.
Schrodingers Box thank you
Dude, I think you should use gapless rings and put it back together. It would be of interest to see how the compression responds on a worn-out engine.
+BnB Toyz Why would I do that given the condition of those crank journals?