I must say I am Not a mechanic but I have experience building motors with my stepdad growing up. Working on cars and trucks through out the years gave me valuable skills that have helped me through the years. Watching your videos has added alot to the little knowledge that I have. I am in the middle of a top end rebuild on a 390 and have found the information that you've given in your videos to be outstanding and helpful. Thank you for posting and keep up the good work.
I see your point about the adhd. this rebuild series is gold and you watch the views go down with each budget rebuild video because they likely arent actually putting their hands on it all the way through like you said.
I'm one of those d.i.y.guys and I'm doing a cylinder head job and I must say I've been following your videos on cylinder heads and valve jobs.you have really given me the passion to have the I can do it attitude. I followed every aspect of knowledge you've given and followed it to the "T" it hasnt steered me wrong. Kudos to all you do to help us d.i.y's. Much respect. I passed my indiana emmison test thanks to you:) to hell with the haters:(
Thanks for the videos... I will say that when I had the head off of my KLR 650 everyone told me to seat the valves. I got the large tool you had from O'Reillys for free, I just had to leave a deposit and got that back when I returned the tool. SO that saved me money in not buying one. Just an FYI... Thumbs up...
0:00-3:00...Your comedic relief is awesome...(Dude it'd be great to see you doing Stand-up or a comedy movie)...LOL! With your attention to detail, etc., I need you to be a co-angler with me to win some bass fishing tournaments!! Man, you are Outstanding...Thanks for sharing your great Knowledge and Time!
when I am checking valves,I pull the valve out 1/4 of the way at a time, and wiggle the valve to make sure it doesn't have too much play...great job on the video man just figured I'd give you my way to do this
Very good series. Picked up a '65 Rambler with a 195.6 that had been rebuilt .030 by the original owner about 15 years ago. He passed away and the car sat for 12 years. I got it to run, but knowing nothing more than Hayes and Chilton, I never checked the engine. Having blown the head gasket twice and pulled the engine, I'm looking forward to actually checking the pistons, the bore, the bearings. It would be nice if the engine had been rebuilt and tucked away and things are in clearance - but that's wishful thinking. Thanks for the video. It will be fun to se if the engine components are in clearance. If not, I have a good 232, t14 transmission, motor mount and other goodies to perform a swap. I'd rather keep it original if I can. Hoping you have a few videos on the re-assembly of an older engine!
I made a home made valve remover and keeper toolUsing a socket and an extension and put a magnet inside the socket Works like a dream though it doesn't work for reassembley. Great show keep it up
evilcowboy Hahaha, I always love when people notice little details I don't even remember. I have a pretty cool collection of banners and tin signs but pretty much filled the available wall space with them!
Thanks for the info! I just watched the 5 parts I could find about engine rebuilding. I almost stopped watching with the initial negative comments towards negative viewers (I kinda thought it brought the series down) but I like that it mellowed out with "head" humor LOL I am watching this because I have a 1998 honda CRV that I was thinking about turning into a drifting/rally rig. Particularly rebuilding the engine to install a turbo on the 2.0L 4 cylinder motor. I to am a scientist, BS in computer science and love to tinker with everything. I've rebuilt a 2 stroke dirt bike engine. I thought a little 4 cylinder would be a good place to start with 4 strokes. Great job on the videos! Look forward to more if you're up to it!
I am sad tk see this series end. I have a 56 F100 w/a 272 and it is in pretty bad shape like this engine was. my block was full of water from a hurricane and sat that way for several months before I got it. I guess I was hoping for a fairy tale ending to give me hope and save me $$. im gonna miss this series! Had to be the best that I've watched that pertained to what I'm working on. Thanks and hope to see more!!
+Jonathan Diffee Thanks man. Yeah it was unfortunate but I hope to do another rebuild in the future with either a larger budget or better yet, a better candidate for the $500 rebuild !
+Schrodingers Box after using a 1" dowel rod(several actually) and beating the pistons out I was able to hone the cylinders pretty smooth. had to give the heads a hydrochloric acid bath and rinse to get to rid of ALL the rust. Doing the port & polish myself, when I get the time. Like yourself, I have a job that pays the bills then this as a hobby. If your ever in the Dallas Texas area you can use my 56 as a video prop. Ha. Seriously though, I have and still AM learning a LOT from your videos. Keep em coming, I'll watch em'.
at 7:15 a deep well socket that's the appropriate size and a small hammer works excellent for breaking the bond between the valve locks and the retainer.
Finally someone who "gets it"!!!!!! There are 1.2million videos uploaded to youtube a day,- at about 100 hours of video per minute. To stand out you just plain HAVE to do something different so people recognize you on your next video, and next one. Since I have poor production quality I have to make up for it with a mix of good content, humor, and attitude so that the people I piss off will keep watching and commenting lol!!
The magnetic collet/retainer remover you have reminds me that I used to use an appropriately sized impact socket to remove collets. No magnet, but a chuck of Blu-tac (sticky plasteciney stuff usually used to stick posters to walls) caught the collets well. Cost was the impact socket which I already owned, a hammer which I already owned and about 2c worth of Blu-tac. Just sit the socket over the valve spring and give it a judicious whack. The machined surfaces inside the socket don't touch the collets so nothing gets chewed up and it was an impact socket so it was fine with being hit. Do NOT do this with a regular socket - they're thin walled and relatively brittle and there will be tears before bedtime.
It's called cut and paste. I had no idea what the sequence represented, but I knew it would get your attention. It was the RUclips link I though would be amusing. No coincidence intended other than an obscure reference I knew you would notice the pattern. Sorry if I caused any concern. Not intended, only that I watch your videos and listen to what you say. Keep up the videos coming. They are good. :-)
Concern me? No way! The odds of you just randomly typing a 50base DNA sequence that exactly matches a gene would be over a billion to one- I was hoping I could talk you into buying a lottery ticket for me!!
I'm pretty sure I got a valve guide/seal issue. I don't have a bad smoking issue except if I sit at idle for a while like in a drive through or traffic jam then I start to get pretty bad smoking but clears up after I get back moving. I was thinking maybe rings but I wanted to try rebuilding the heads first. I'm a fairly capable home mechanic. But trying to get this salvage caravan back good. It also passes smog test with flying colors I just have to get a good bottle of that stop leak/smoke a few days before hand
If you want to measure the compressed valve spring height take the spring off, put the retainer and collets back on, pull up and measure, then subtract the retainer height, works for me.
The trick with the finger and valve is old and tested. It's always a very good way to test valve guide without a tool, most times it's enought to test with this method.
Another quick method to check valve sealing, with the head removed of course, is to tip it up on edge so the intake (or exhaust) ports point straight up. Fill the port with gasoline and watch for any leakage around the valve seat. If it stays dry, it will pass the "ink test" and now you don't have to remove that valve.
+Schrodingers Box Also, an easy quick way to check for cylinder warpage is to put the cylinder head on a glass table (thick glass preferably, you dont want to break the glass) and see if there is light coming through the glass and the head. Then you can check it more thoroughly by measuring exactly how much warpage there is and compare it with the tolerance as you cite on the vid.
Would an aluminum engine be more prone to cracks in the head? I'm assessing an 87 Pathfinder and the leak down did poorly for two cylinders next to each other. It's not the head gasket because there's no bubbles coming out of the radiator so I'm at an intersection with my truck again. Thank you for having car videos that actually make sense to logical people.
I started rebuilding engines about 4 years ago.. It was an evening project/hobby. Now I have a storageshed with several engines rebuilt and no cars to put them in... Its like I am addicted to doing this...
+sonichuizcool Lol, it is pretty addicting but actually, I no longer do this. It just takes too much time, takes up my whole garage, is not cost effective, and I'm just more into engine performance diagnostics anyway. It's a great hobby but I never had a passion for it like I do PCM diagnostics.
Schrodingers Box I got it down to a small corner of my garage. I actually made wall mountings for parts holding and organization for each engine I do. Its something about the perfection of these things... Man at his best, like some kind of art. I wish I could understand Transmissions better.. seems most people gravitate towards engines leaving a shortage of tranny mechanics. BTW love your screen name. :D
sonichuizcool Hahaha Transmissions... I got a book on transmission rebuilding a couple years ago- after about the 50th clutch disc was removed and placed in order I never looked at it again!!
Is it possible to sort the valve seat by re-lapping them with a valve grind stick and lapping grease/cutting oil? I've done this before on a 4 cyl 8v engine, seems fairly diy and inexpensive. Not sure I'd want to do it on something with a million valves though! Again enjoying these video's alot! I've worked on engine's before but still find I'm learning more/different ways to approach things. Great stuff!
Thank God for harbor freight I got all the tools I needed for around a 100 bucks hone valve spring compressor and all the fancy gauges I mean it's not snap on stuff but they will get the job done on a budget
Thank you very much for very informative videos,help me a lot to decide what direction to take and look all options to rebuild or swipe using used engine. I have a 2000 Mazda MPV with a broken cylinder head(camshaft caps,lobe) cause by broken timing chain and I followed your steps to determine if is worked to rebuild to buy used engine since this SUV belong to a friend. Adding all the parts(gaskets,machine shop) goes over $1500, getting use engine about $800, also third alternative is to put and Ford Cougar engine since both block engines are DURATEC. all the cost not including labor (free) since the job is for a friend.
Well done Arahtson! This is exactly the point of the video and you absolutely made the correct call. Great story and this is a testimonial to others on how to rationally assess their situations. Sorry about your situation but you absolutely made the best decision and approached it rationally.
Interesting video. FYI, for that year of engine, and assuming it hasn't had cylinder head work before, it will require the installation of hardened valve seats due to the unavailability of leaded gas.
Ah I did not know that. This truck is far older than I am so I vaguely remember leaded gas when I was a tot. Good point and another consideration if we were to do machine work.
Schrodingers Box He's completely right. The original small block Chevy had the valve seats integral with the head. In other words they simply used the cast iron of the head as the valve seat. In 1975 when unleaded fuel was first mandated all manufacturers had to change over to a material call Stellite for their valve seats that could prevent the valve from wearing out when used with unleaded gas. So your heads would need to be machined and Stellite seats installed.
SATAMAN Schmidt Damn you guys are the best- that's fantastic information. At this point we are actually revisting the machine shop possibility and I will absolutely make sure to bring this up with them. I never would have even thought about this.
Are you referring to the impact-removal of the valve keepers? I thought of this but the problem is without the magnet the keepers stay on the valve. It takes a pretty strong magnet to draw the keepers from the valve.
Sometimes you'd have to smack it a couple times , but they will eventually fall out . Have to lay out a few rags on the table or finding them will be the next step in your head rebuild ;) Done automotive work since my first job at 13 yrs. old. From junkyard to dealerships . Cleanliness and common sense is the key . Still enjoy watching others and their way of doing things . Keep up the good work , great videos ;)
I have to say after every video that everyone has opinions but there is facts and when 2+3=5 it is that way no matter how you get it, plus talking engine blocks if the specs are that close to maximum anyway then youd probably be really really pushing the limits on getting the money worth and best performance with those specs, some manufactures make extremely generous tolerences as it is. I'm a GM guy but I know myself that with any engine you do have to realize that once your in it and it needs anything more than an average rebuild its not going to be a $500 build unless you have a major discount, and most tolerances if not all are pretty well off the border line of min/max spec. Atleast there are options as to get an engune to last a little longer if its just a little low on oil pressure or a small issue such as a little smoke, id go with a bit higher viscosity oil and or try using something that will swell seals a bit and atleast keeps from fouling up plugs, and of coarse I do enjoy the logic conversation and understand that its good to mention that it just makes since not to waste money. I can say that with coolant and oil leaks that theres usually a cheap way that anyone can get life out an engine and make it last before it fills the crankcase with a gallon of coolant and destroys almost everything or the oil is burning faster than is your fuel. God knows there are always people that have to be ignored because they are simply a little bit stuck on trying to make people think that they have the knowledge that surpasses all and knows things that doesn't even exist. But you do great at explaining thing and I'm sure you wouldn't like to continue reading for another hour, so I can end with saying that everyone is good at something if they want to be, you have your strengths too, mine is electrical and I use logic to learn and understand everything else. I have trouble staying on some topics but effort produces knowledge after a while, I started my life with high functioning autism but even though it doesn't go away I can use the brain I was born with to learn and do what some people could not dream of if want, I may not be able to do some things but I believe everyone is made for atleast one good thing and putting a little curious effort into learning you will succeed and I think alot of the people that dont want to learn won't learn and people who do will learn, they should learn and then they would be able say they got where they are not guessing and putting an effort into it, thanks for the videos and I appreciate the time and effort applied, thanks.
If the valve isn't seating perfectly I seen on other youtube videos that a valve job is fairly easy to DIY. It's a little time consuming but you use a suction cup valve tool with valve grinding compound.
I've got the right tool for doing just that, I got it from a yard sale many years ago and it still works like a charm for minor seating problems, and lapping the valves in on my '52 Flathead engine.
keep an eye on that one, that first one. I had the little black clip pop of while i had the valve spring compressed and it threw one of the keepers to the moon so i had to go to a yard and grab another one, unless i wanted to wait a long time to get one ordered at the dealer. "the harbor freight backup vsc i had finished the job find"
22:30 Exactly my thoughts when I agreed to change my neighbor's Fuel Pump on a 1997 Chevy 1500 Suburban last week. Everything was fine till the guy I didn't know, whom was friends of the guy who owned the vehicle started helping me, pushed too far one way and as I told him he was pulling on the rubber fuel lines, and as I was still pulling the jack out from under the gas tank, he pushed it too far towards the driver side, kinking the metal lines. Instead of it costing $80 just for the fuel pump, now we had to get the complete fuel assembly costing around $250, although discounted at an auto parts store ordering online with in town pickup in 20 minutes, and those metal lines are unforgiving when it comes to loosening them. I prefer working with the quick connect fuel lines than with those dreaded threaded lines. This project took twice as long as was originally anticipated using my shortcut method of air can spraying the top of the fuel tank. The only thing that pissed me off is the other guy tried putting some of the blame on me saying I was pulling on it. Not true, I was pulling the jack out of the way as he pushed, kinking the metal line, luckily only kinking the metal line that comes with the complete fuel assembly.
I wasn't going to say this but when you used the feeler gauge between the piston and cylinder wall you made a slight error, you needed a second gauge 180 degrees opposite of where you used the one you had, your measure was doubled by not taking into account the other side.
The only problem is that the proper measurement IS the gap on one side. You do NOT fill the gap on the other side to determine clearance. The proper method is measureing TOTAL CLEARANCE which is how I did it- though two gauges does the same you just have to double the reading. In fact, just a brief moment's thought indicates this is more accurate that using two gauges because your halve your source of error margin combined with the fact you are doubling the measurement... using two gauges would be extremely foolish. If I measure a clearance of .002" with a 5% margin of error (MOE) this is far superior to two measurements with 5% MOE which now doubles the MOE to now become statistically significant. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS reduce error sources!!!!
Sad this rebuild isn't going to happen but it's an excellent case on what happens when an engine is too far gone to be revived on a budget. This engine can be saved yes absolutely just not within budget constraints set by the owner. Realistically what are the odds you're going to find a direct replacement that isn't going to need the same amount of work? I think unlikely. Probably best for the owner to find a more modern replacement and do some upgrades like fuel injection and electronic ignition. You could find a 10 year old engine for very cheap these days but you'd have to modify it to work. Would be cool to put an OBD-II compatible engine in that truck! Ah budgets, decisions must be made. :(
You know, given the owners personal family situation I think just cutting the losses altogether is the best decision as much as I hate to say it. But you're right - these projects are always about hard decisions. Most likely we will try to find a similar model year salvage engine with a 30 day guarantee that I can inspect before install
Schrodingers Box I guess I'm a little surprised that the owner has been keen to keep the same style engine. Perhaps it's about greater resale market for vintage parts under the hood, too. As you say, it's not whether a rebuild could be done, it's about how much it would cost.
spelunkerd Yeah its hard to explain since the owner has a sentimental attachment to this truck- sentimental attachments are pretty foreign to me lol. It's funny but just many people have wondered why bother at all with this paperweight as have said they would rather do a total rebuild on this truck before they would depreciate a new one. I know the owner has a long term goal of eventually completely restoring the truck and as you pointed out, having original components is a consideration in such ventures, but not so much on a '65 F100- it's not like a '67 fastback or something. The return on investment is far less significant for this truck. At this time we are actually negotiating with a machine shop on a rebuild
Another down and dirty valve seat/seal test. With the spark plug in the head, turn the head valve face up and fill the cylinder crown i.e. the dish with water for each cylinder. Then watch for water at the intake and exhaust runners. You can do that prior to disassembly and then after you clean the valves/seats up to validate if they were leaking because of crud. Additionally if you hand dry the the dish with a towel, if the head is cracked a "moisture line" will present. Not a perfect test, it would point you to the idea of magna-fluxing the head to confirm. Little time consuming the de/re of the values, but its free. On a budget build that's a good thing.
Regarding the point about not needing specialized tools, are you suggesting doing this without a hydraulic engine hoist and an engine stand? Those are both pretty expensive tools. Is it reasonable for a DIYer to disassemble and reassemble the engine piecemeal directly in the engine bay? Really enjoyed this whole series. Thanks!
I know of at least 2 other valve tools you can use for a head job (not to nitpick, just to inform other watcher's) One is a hammer style (similar to the socket idea before, but it has magnets to both remove, and also apply the keepers) not sure where to buy it, but i've seen a video of it and it seems quite handy\fast. the other i think is for a SBC, but i used it on my jeep inline 6, it's basically a bent flatbar with a bolt hole and a forked end. This may be particular to pushrod engines, or even more specific then that. The idea is you put a rocker bolt in the bar then lever the spring down (typically with a rag holding the valves up while the head is laying on a bench) The tool cost me about 20 bucks locally, it's probably more like 5-10 dollers to buy one in the states. Quite inexpensive and just to check the valves on a head (to decide whether to send it to the shop of if lapping is all that's needed) ::edit:: opps, forgot to finish watching the video, you mentioned the other hammer style, my bad :P
I got here after either blowing a head gasket or cracking/warping a cylinder head, but the car is only at 70,000 miles so hopefully the piston and valve walls are to spec. I'm making sure that I do extensive research on everything before I start turning any bolts at all.
Is it okay to steam clean the cylinder heads and other parts of the engine to clean up all of that carbon and oil build up? if not why so? Gonna be doing my first car project this summer on a gen 2 Firebird with a Chevy 350 i watched part 1-5 so far and ive learned so much! Thank you! ive been taking notes for when the time comes lol subbed! keep it up
MrAlternation Yes it would be most recommended. My machine shop charges quite a bit for this, putting us out of budget, but if it was my car I would have done it.
There is a small expanding ball tool that works just as what you used with the cylinder clearance check you would expand the bald ever 1/4th of an inch through the valve ride and measure god that was a bitch to do in class lol I rebuilt the 260 in my 64 fairlane in class here at college and we were graded on how well we measured EVERYTHING
Ok. I'm here to learn how and WHY.. yes I have the same feelings I had when attended my grad school.l don't want any 3 minutes videos. Thank you for knowledge, skills, and the experience you're sharing with us Do you recommend polishing the valves beneath the seats? If not, is carb cleaner is what you recommend?
Congratulations for your good attitude towards learning. YES- I use a lapping compound to polish the valves beneath the seats and if my "marker test" shows there is very poor seating, I will usually consider machining.
Schrodingers Box you've just made my week easier. I'll inspect the block the way you did and (yes with a feeler guage) and if the block within the specs I'll do the ringes then polish the cylinder head ". But might not afford a mechine shoppe! Thank you so very much for your instant response, much appreciated
I use to lap the valves in as long as the valves were not too pitted or the guides were too loose and with small block chevy engines the guides were allways wore out.
I just realized this video series is an older series. Thats ok,I found it entertaining anyways. I hear many burned out mechanics that really vent heavy duty concerning stupid people and arm chair mechanics. Because I worked in a shop,I can relate. I had my own snowmobile shop for a while and had a few idiots bring their sleds in wanting a half of an engine rebuild because they had a hole in a piston on a twin cylinder. Their idea was as long as the other one was still working, they were trying to save money. I usually ended up throwing it back together,charging for my time and telling them to get it out of my shop. My reputation as a shop owner ment more than some cheap ass wanting to save a few dollars,then having the other cylinder go bad within a month,then go on a rant telling everyone I did a bad job,especially to all their sledding buddys. Word of mouth in a smaller town will ruin you. I refused to do anything half assed on things like that. Imagine only rebuilding only half of a V-8 engine because one side still had compression,though not weak,but not great eather,then they come back later bitching because that motor isn't performing and the guys buddy's point out that the other side should have been done. Next thing you know, guys start showing up at your shop telling you about how you screwed up their friends engine,blah blah blah. Yeah,nope. I did rebuild an engine to factory manual specs,only to find out that that engine had problems right from the factory. I found out on line that those snowmobiles were over heating and the motors were melting down due to lack of air vents in the hood and also a bad carborator set up,right from the factory. I ended up having to rebuild it twice,then the owner dumped the sled on me. I was able to get the title and sell it. Because of the design issues however, the snowmobile was a fuel hog,too heavy and wasnt very popular. Skidoo really laid an egg with that model. I remember the 4 cylinder Mustang 2 engines ate camshafts because the oil ports leading to the upper heads were too small,resulting in oil starvation on the top end. I used to rebuild them and resell them all day long...no more issues,I reported the oil galleys,always fixed that issue.
In part 4, seems like you did with your F350 engine exactly what I want to do with my LT1. I.e. re ring and new bearings.... and you say it ran forever and even towed! So if my engine is in spec, new bearings and rings is good enough to buy it some extra life. Won't make it a 0 miles engine but will make it a lot younger than 100k Miles. No?
+Luke Adams Yes but the problem is when the keepers are stuck it doesn't do anything. The trick with this tool is a super strong magnet that pulls the keepers away from the valve stem. But yes sometimes a socket will work if they jar loose
+Luke Adams that's what i do it helps to lightly tap the end of the valve and around the retainer to kind of break it loose then put the socket on and give it a good solid wack.
I have watched several videos on this subject, read books and even watch this work be done before. I am not going to question your methods, as an intelligent person I understand there are several ways to do any job. But I will make this statement, this video, this episode, YOU FORGOT one important thing........ you forgot your gloves...... :)
I understand he's cash strapped but if he saved up $1500 how much longer to save up $2000 or $2500? Also, your videos are the best! Especially now that etcg mostly seems to just do tool reviews.
Thanks, Jab, but mine were the best even when ETCG was doing car videos lol. But I can't hold a candle to ScannerDanner. If you haven't seen his channel, well, don't, cuz you probably won't come back here lol. Your point on the financial plan is absolutely correct in my opinion and in fact the owner and I just so happened to discuss this last night so it's funny you bring this up. I'll bring up the final status in the next video but basically we came to a decision that we will bid the machine work out to several shops. If we can get the work done within budget, great, we go forward. If not, then we will tow the truck back to his house where he will store it and the motor until he saves enough to get the machine work done, however long that takes. But we decided against a used motor because he wants to keep it all original.
Schrodingers Box I'm well aware of ScannerDanner. His vids are great! I admit that ETCG has lots of well made, informative videos. Basically, I watch several different channels to gather information that I could use in the future. I even watch Scotty Kilmer for motivation sometimes!
Schrodingers Box ScannerDanner is good but his narrative thread of logic wonders quite a bit during the explanation process in many of the videos I have seen. He is difficult to follow at times and on many occasion requires several video rewinds to grasp the logic jumping. At times he will string a tighter narrative thread of logic on the same material in the last ten minutes of the video. So, the result is 15 minutes of material in a 35 minute video. Great topics though.
Sandbag1300 ScannerDannery's information is quite good...I've only watched a few of his videos. It takes the most will to get through them over any other. I seem to mostly get back to Ericthecarguy because he has videos on possibly all of the basics to have a good foundation. I think he gets some things deeper than he knows them, but he's focused on the DIYer. Yes, Scotty Kilmer takes the least effort to watch. His video's almost take no time....so to really get one of his points the video is almost too fast, but it's perfect when my mind is tired from videos that are heavier on the detail. The other value for Scotty, is when I want a quick review on a job. I find I learn things from ChrisFix that I get no where else (least watched so far). Briansmobile, I'll always be a fan because he's the one that got me started learning here on RUclips when I took on a job that ended up over my head last summer. To me, what I've learned most from Brian is a different approach to jobs. Before him, I never considered popping out some engine mounts to move an engine up and down to have clearance to do a job. Now I do it all the time. Eventually, watching him got me into Ericthecarguy and Scotty Kilmer.. And from, there I got to ChrisFix and ScannerDanner, and that brought me down to engine rebuilding with jafro and finally Schrodingers Box.... And for the most fun, I watch Mighty Car Mods. :) I learn the least here that I can use not having a turbo engine....but maybe one day. :) I'm going to watch the video before I decide if my history on how I got here will actually be entertaining for anyone other than me, lol. I decided to keep the comment. If you've finished all of your favorites, there are some good channels to look at here. :) And finally we have Schrodinger's Box. Severe, witty, sarcasm that makes me laugh and great information? Oh yeah. :) I originally wanted to be a scientist before life kept getting in the way (possibly permanently so now) so I really get you. After that I dropped down to wanting to be a mechanical engineer. I may get back to that one, but in the meantime, I'm training to be a great, diagnostic mechanic.
DE Nichols LOL ..I watch ALL of the guys you mentioned except chris fix ..have found him boring ..roman automotive seems good . Brian is my favorite and eric second ..Just found this channel
Ha ha! I love your smart-ass sense of humor. Question: I use a caliper and do not have a micrometer as I would prefer not to spend the money on if I can prevent it. You also seem to rely on a caliper. Are there any engine-related measurements that you would use a micrometer instead? Many people doing engine work use micrometers as they may be more precise. What is your opinion on that?
+eStrangeSun Great question bro- I agree a caliper is not as precise and if I were doing say a expensive high performance rebuild I would be more inclined to use mic's but for what I do- rebuilding junkers at extreme budget to help the poor get by another 2 or 3 years at most, calipers work fine.
+Brian Wynn How would the valve grinding compound "know" to only grind the high locations. I don't understand how it wouldn't just be equally abrasive to everything.
+Brian Wynn It is not used to make corrections in the seat other than very minimal ones if the valve angles of the seat and valve match such as after a valve job. You don't just take a valve that isn't seating and lap it and expect it is going to "be right".
It's good to know you have a handle on your telescoping bore gauge. It seems your whole existence is built around innuendo. A clean mind comes at a high premium no?
i want to know a simple question if you want to answer it, that how do you by hearing a pop sound after removing valve stem quickly, that it is within specs. what is the logic behind that. just for knowledge .
Swapnil Kurmi It is not a positive test- it is a negative test. I.E. if you do NOT hear the pop sound, then there is no way it is withing spec because clearly the stem to bore clearance is too big. If you do hear it pop, it does not mean it is within spec it just means it is likely it is and worth verifying.
Shark week, dont fear guys! According to my HAYNES manual on Women (manufactured 1980-1985), it says "if shark week is diagnosted then the DIY mechanic should throw chocolate bars from a distance at the woman (for details consult your local grocery shop)" I havent tried it, its a new book i got from ebay. It has a five out of five spanner mark next to this quote. Is it that complicated? We'll see that next week.
Owning an old vehicle like that means that the owner should be aware of the cost of restoration even not to pristine level its not cheap to restore/repair a 50 year old vehicle-- Personally I think many owners prefer to keep the original engine and refresh it and when was the last time you saw a 352 for sale? Also if the owner decides to sell a refreshed engine is a good selling point
Now that it is apart why not do the machine shop work and have a fine running engine in the end. I know that there is a cost to that but if the owner is in love with the truck he should have a good running engine. It is a good investment I would say. doing it cheap is not a good way to go. The truck looks solid and worthy of the consideration. even if the steering and suspension needs some work. The original engine is worth more than a paper weight.
This would have worked out so much better had you only had a Haynes manual. Better still, with a Chilton manual, you could have turned this into a race engine, for like, uh, 800 bucks!
I can't help but wonder, that tool seems very nice for DISassembly but seems like it would be useless for reassembly and you would have to own one of those other tools in addition to it.
You are referring to the valve keeper tool? Actually it is just as useful for reassembly. You place the valve in placer with spring, set the keepers on the spring and place tool over everything and whack with hammer. When spring compresses the tool pushes the keepers into the valve lip and it's all perfectly installed. It's amazing!
Dear Schrodinger, Please accept my apology for posting out of sequence. I would like to return to your cylinder bore measurement technique for a moment. In your original measurement you used the piston as a known diameter, no problem here. My challenge is with the feeler gauge and the non wear lip at the top of the cylinder that you originally pointed out which was significant as expected with an engine with high mileage and wear. This non worn lip is due to the area of the piston above the top ring, thus no cylinder wear. I am confused as to how you are getting an accurate measurement of the diameter of the cylinder below this "non wear" area when you are inserting the piston and feeler gauge through the non worn area. So as in science let''s take the example to an extreme to see if it holds. Let's make the non worn area 4" in diameter and the depth 1/4" and the worn part of the cylinder 4.125" when the feeler gauge and piston are inserted 1/8" the measurement will be of the non wear area. As the piston is inserted deeper into the cylinder, say 1/2" the feeler gauge will be at an angle between the piston and the non worn cylinder 1/4" and the worn part of the cylinder. I do not see how no matter how deep you insert the piston and feeler gauge into the cylinder you can get an accurate measurement, until it was all well below the non worn part of the cylinder. I think the bore gauges you invested in are going to provide a much more accurate dimension of the diameter even allowing for the challenges you point out. Thanks for your thoughtful analysis and time in making these videos. Regards, Steve
On theses heads on a budget I would clean the carbon then lap the valves @ new stem seals , only on high end race heads will you see a 3 angle valve job most machine shops only face the valves @ seats, I cheat @ use a drill on low speed @ lapping compound, chuck the valve in the drill @ pull it into the seat , be careful not to over do it only touch the valve to the seat 3 or 4 times then check contact , do this until you have good contact all around then stop. One word about valves ,springs @ retainers I would advise anyone that you should always keep valves, springs @ keepers together as intake @ exhaust valves have different springs @ keepers I # the valves @ springs @ keepers so I can put them back in the hole they came out of ,this can be as impotant as lifters or pistons in the right holes , they all have wear patterns. Keep in mind some auto parts stores have Loner Tools if you buy parts from them you can borrow these @ some can be rented from rental places, Check around some times if you can get the loner tools it may be worth paying a few dollars more than ordering on internet, Some times it is cheaper to buy a rebuilt engine with a warrenty.As for cambearings I always have a machine shop do these they can be can be tricky @ if you dont have the right tools or install one upside down or damage it you wont get oil to the top end @ if a cambearing spins it can also cause either low or high oil pressure depends on where the guage is located.I have even had a machine shop put one in up side down ,make sure all passages are lined up.before you install the cam.On a budget cam bearings are one thing I will some times not replace, one thing he did not cover is always replace freeze plugs, they are easy with motor removed but a nightmare to replace in the car. ,
+Jon Fisher Invest in a valve lapping tool my friend if your doing a lot of lapping. it adds a slight oscillation and gears the sucker down too. best 10 quid I ever spend for doing head rebuilds.
Matt, I don't understand the overbearing focus on budget. Bottom Line: If you want to play you've got to pay. Now I realize that this comment is coming from a guy with $100,000 worth of tools in his house, primarily woodworking but a lot of automotive as well, (and yes I do have a dial bore gauge - the one made by Johnson Level that's the subject of this tool review: Johnson Level Digital Bore Gauge.) I found this at zorotools.com, which had the best price, and is where I picked mine up. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. But, back to the point: If you want to have a classic car or truck as a toy you more or less have got to be willing and able to pay for it. I live about three miles from Westworld, the home of Barrett-Jackson, so maybe I am jaded about this but car collecting is a rich man's hobby and if he's not rich maybe your friend needs another hobby. I wish you would stick with science, technology, theory of operation and dumping on stupid people in your videos. I really don't give a damn what things cost as I don't control that. If you need an engine you need an engine. Find a replacement somewhere or walk dude. When I was 29 years old - I'm 62 now - I was the assistant to a guy who built the motor for a car that led one lap of the Daytona 500 (that's because all of the really fast guys came in for fuel) and I know how much we spent building that engine. I think our pushrods cost more than $1500 in 1979 money. You make that amount sound like somebody's college fund. I don't consider 2K to be excessive for a complete rebuild. That's the going rate. RockAuto sells completely rebuilt motors from Marshall (a well respected rebuilder) for less than 2K which seems like a fair price. You either want it or you don't. You can either afford it or you can't why all the agonizing? Make a video: "This is how you rebuild an engine properly." What it costs is what it costs.
I see your point, however if you have over $100K in tools at your house (or even $10K) then you likely also have something that most people watching this specific series don't have, and that's experience. It is easy for an inexperienced person with a blown motor to look at his options and believe that rebuilding the engine is probably the least expensive one. You and I of course know it is not. Looking at most of the cars you see in any of my videos- the values of the vehicle seldom go over $6 or $7K and usually are under $5K and most of my customers are very cash strapped which is why I help them out. Thus the decisions become far more difficult and the purpose of this series is to both help with the financial aspects involved as well as the procedure involved. If money were no object for my viewers then there would be no use for my channel in the first place- everyone would be taking their ferrari's to the dealer!
My Testarossa hasn't seen the inside of a dealership in twenty five years. JUST KIDDING! but then again neither has my 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix (my daily driver with 230,000 miles on it which I fully intend to keep until it explodes.) Crazy, but here in Phoenix with just basic maintenance you can keep a car forever as rust just doesn't happen. I just paint mine every five years and it looks like new. You did notice my handle was SATA man. Now you know my preferred choice of spray gun. But, I will lower myself to an Iwata from time to time.
Your magic marker/sharpie test is flawed. Surely the area you mark first with the sharpie will dry quicker and therefore harder to remove than sharpie ink that has just been applied. Even a matter of seconds can make a difference. I've rebuilt many engines this way and use a stand drill with 20 grade stone bit to clean up the seats before lapping the valves with fine paste. All of them have seated perfectly and passed the gasoline in the combustion chamber test without any problems. You just junked a perfectly good engine that could have been rescued.
Endometrial ablation means "shark week" has been canceled forever.... you can thank me later, but right now you need to schedule that appointment for your girlfriend.
Vavle grinding compound, I believe you are referring to. The reason I don't do that is for the same reason you wouldn't drill a hole with a wobbly drill bit- since the valve is not seating right to begin with, there is no way to be sure I am grinding the valve square and evenly in the seating area.
Schrodingers Box Hi Matt, Do you mean not to use valve lapping compound at all for any reason on the valves, or just in this situation with that particular valve? Thanks in advance!
RattlerBK I am saying only use valve lapping compound if you know the surface is even. Valve lapping compound will not "fix" an out-of-round or unevenly worn valve surface.
Schrodingers Box Thank you for you quick response, but by the out-of-round valve surface do you mean both the valve seat, and/or the valve face which touch? I feel this is stupid question, but I'm a little confused on this.
I must say I am Not a mechanic but I have experience building motors with my stepdad growing up. Working on cars and trucks through out the years gave me valuable skills that have helped me through the years. Watching your videos has added alot to the little knowledge that I have. I am in the middle of a top end rebuild on a 390 and have found the information that you've given in your videos to be outstanding and helpful. Thank you for posting and keep up the good work.
I see your point about the adhd. this rebuild series is gold and you watch the views go down with each budget rebuild video because they likely arent actually putting their hands on it all the way through like you said.
I'm one of those d.i.y.guys and I'm doing a cylinder head job and I must say I've been following your videos on cylinder heads and valve jobs.you have really given me the passion to have the I can do it attitude. I followed every aspect of knowledge you've given and followed it to the "T" it hasnt steered me wrong. Kudos to all you do to help us d.i.y's. Much respect. I passed my indiana emmison test thanks to you:) to hell with the haters:(
Thanks for the videos... I will say that when I had the head off of my KLR 650 everyone told me to seat the valves. I got the large tool you had from O'Reillys for free, I just had to leave a deposit and got that back when I returned the tool. SO that saved me money in not buying one. Just an FYI... Thumbs up...
Good video, something worth mentioning if you're going to this job, and especially if you're going to reuse old parts, is keep all the parts in order.
I think your videos are outstanding and thank you so much for taking the time to make these for us!
It's been years since I've overhauled any engines I appreciate the review and tips. I will be using some of them in my next adventure.
0:00-3:00...Your comedic relief is awesome...(Dude it'd be great to see you doing Stand-up or a comedy movie)...LOL! With your attention to detail, etc., I need you to be a co-angler with me to win some bass fishing tournaments!! Man, you are Outstanding...Thanks for sharing your great Knowledge and Time!
Thanks man, glad you appreciate the humor!
when I am checking valves,I pull the valve out 1/4 of the way at a time, and wiggle the valve to make sure it doesn't have too much play...great job on the video man just figured I'd give you my way to do this
That's what I do!!!
Very good series. Picked up a '65 Rambler with a 195.6 that had been rebuilt .030 by the original owner about 15 years ago. He passed away and the car sat for 12 years. I got it to run, but knowing nothing more than Hayes and Chilton, I never checked the engine. Having blown the head gasket twice and pulled the engine, I'm looking forward to actually checking the pistons, the bore, the bearings. It would be nice if the engine had been rebuilt and tucked away and things are in clearance - but that's wishful thinking. Thanks for the video. It will be fun to se if the engine components are in clearance. If not, I have a good 232, t14 transmission, motor mount and other goodies to perform a swap. I'd rather keep it original if I can. Hoping you have a few videos on the re-assembly of an older engine!
I made a home made valve remover and keeper toolUsing a socket and an extension and put a magnet inside the socket Works like a dream though it doesn't work for reassembley. Great show keep it up
Love the Trans Am banner. lol.
Lots of great information here especially on a budget rebuild.
evilcowboy Hahaha, I always love when people notice little details I don't even remember. I have a pretty cool collection of banners and tin signs but pretty much filled the available wall space with them!
Thanks for the info! I just watched the 5 parts I could find about engine rebuilding. I almost stopped watching with the initial negative comments towards negative viewers (I kinda thought it brought the series down) but I like that it mellowed out with "head" humor LOL I am watching this because I have a 1998 honda CRV that I was thinking about turning into a drifting/rally rig. Particularly rebuilding the engine to install a turbo on the 2.0L 4 cylinder motor. I to am a scientist, BS in computer science and love to tinker with everything. I've rebuilt a 2 stroke dirt bike engine. I thought a little 4 cylinder would be a good place to start with 4 strokes. Great job on the videos! Look forward to more if you're up to it!
Great video as all your are! The instrument you used to measure the valve spring was not a micrometer but a vernier.Thanks for your contributions!!
I am sad tk see this series end. I have a 56 F100 w/a 272 and it is in pretty bad shape like this engine was. my block was full of water from a hurricane and sat that way for several months before I got it. I guess I was hoping for a fairy tale ending to give me hope and save me $$. im gonna miss this series! Had to be the best that I've watched that pertained to what I'm working on. Thanks and hope to see more!!
+Jonathan Diffee Thanks man. Yeah it was unfortunate but I hope to do another rebuild in the future with either a larger budget or better yet, a better candidate for the $500 rebuild !
+Schrodingers Box after using a 1" dowel rod(several actually) and beating the pistons out I was able to hone the cylinders pretty smooth. had to give the heads a hydrochloric acid bath and rinse to get to rid of ALL the rust. Doing the port & polish myself, when I get the time. Like yourself, I have a job that pays the bills then this as a hobby. If your ever in the Dallas Texas area you can use my 56 as a video prop. Ha. Seriously though, I have and still AM learning a LOT from your videos. Keep em coming, I'll watch em'.
I know this video is old but new to a rookie in training, great show keep up the good work...
at 7:15 a deep well socket that's the appropriate size and a small hammer works excellent for breaking the bond between the valve locks and the retainer.
Like the way you explain things, sarcasm and your oxymorons adds some spice to the mix.
Finally someone who "gets it"!!!!!! There are 1.2million videos uploaded to youtube a day,- at about 100 hours of video per minute. To stand out you just plain HAVE to do something different so people recognize you on your next video, and next one.
Since I have poor production quality I have to make up for it with a mix of good content, humor, and attitude so that the people I piss off will keep watching and commenting lol!!
The magnetic collet/retainer remover you have reminds me that I used to use an appropriately sized impact socket to remove collets. No magnet, but a chuck of Blu-tac (sticky plasteciney stuff usually used to stick posters to walls) caught the collets well. Cost was the impact socket which I already owned, a hammer which I already owned and about 2c worth of Blu-tac. Just sit the socket over the valve spring and give it a judicious whack. The machined surfaces inside the socket don't touch the collets so nothing gets chewed up and it was an impact socket so it was fine with being hit. Do NOT do this with a regular socket - they're thin walled and relatively brittle and there will be tears before bedtime.
It's called cut and paste. I had no idea what the sequence represented, but I knew it would get your attention. It was the RUclips link I though would be amusing. No coincidence intended other than an obscure reference I knew you would notice the pattern.
Sorry if I caused any concern. Not intended, only that I watch your videos and listen to what you say. Keep up the videos coming. They are good. :-)
Concern me? No way! The odds of you just randomly typing a 50base DNA sequence that exactly matches a gene would be over a billion to one- I was hoping I could talk you into buying a lottery ticket for me!!
I'm pretty sure I got a valve guide/seal issue. I don't have a bad smoking issue except if I sit at idle for a while like in a drive through or traffic jam then I start to get pretty bad smoking but clears up after I get back moving. I was thinking maybe rings but I wanted to try rebuilding the heads first. I'm a fairly capable home mechanic. But trying to get this salvage caravan back good. It also passes smog test with flying colors I just have to get a good bottle of that stop leak/smoke a few days before hand
If you want to measure the compressed valve spring height take the spring off, put the retainer and collets back on, pull up and measure, then subtract the retainer height, works for me.
Nice Set of vids! Keep them coming!
I REALLY ENJOY YOUR TUTORIALS ..THANKS AND HAVE A HAPPY HOLIDAY BRO!
I TRUST YOUR INSTRUCTION JUST BECAUSE THE WAY YOUR WIRED....LOL.
The trick with the finger and valve is old and tested. It's always a very good way to test valve guide without a tool, most times it's enought to test with this method.
This guy!🤣🤣🤣 laughed really hard at this one in the beginning of the video! Great vids, Keep up the good work!
Awesome and hilarious! Had me chuckling at 8:49
Another quick method to check valve sealing, with the head removed of course, is to tip it up on edge so the intake (or exhaust) ports point straight up. Fill the port with gasoline and watch for any leakage around the valve seat. If it stays dry, it will pass the "ink test" and now you don't have to remove that valve.
+Schrodingers Box Also, an easy quick way to check for cylinder warpage is to put the cylinder head on a glass table (thick glass preferably, you dont want to break the glass) and see if there is light coming through the glass and the head. Then you can check it more thoroughly by measuring exactly how much warpage there is and compare it with the tolerance as you cite on the vid.
thanks for the quick reply, and keep up the videos
I used the Lisle valve keeper remover. It was so quick!
Would an aluminum engine be more prone to cracks in the head? I'm assessing an 87 Pathfinder and the leak down did poorly for two cylinders next to each other. It's not the head gasket because there's no bubbles coming out of the radiator so I'm at an intersection with my truck again. Thank you for having car videos that actually make sense to logical people.
definitely more prone to warping no doubt. Cracking, not sure. Seems pretty soft to crack as easily as cast iron.
I started rebuilding engines about 4 years ago.. It was an evening project/hobby. Now I have a storageshed with several engines rebuilt and no cars to put them in... Its like I am addicted to doing this...
+sonichuizcool Lol, it is pretty addicting but actually, I no longer do this. It just takes too much time, takes up my whole garage, is not cost effective, and I'm just more into engine performance diagnostics anyway. It's a great hobby but I never had a passion for it like I do PCM diagnostics.
Schrodingers Box I got it down to a small corner of my garage. I actually made wall mountings for parts holding and organization for each engine I do. Its something about the perfection of these things... Man at his best, like some kind of art. I wish I could understand Transmissions better.. seems most people gravitate towards engines leaving a shortage of tranny mechanics. BTW love your screen name. :D
sonichuizcool Hahaha Transmissions... I got a book on transmission rebuilding a couple years ago- after about the 50th clutch disc was removed and placed in order I never looked at it again!!
Is it possible to sort the valve seat by re-lapping them with a valve grind stick and lapping grease/cutting oil? I've done this before on a 4 cyl 8v engine, seems fairly diy and inexpensive. Not sure I'd want to do it on something with a million valves though!
Again enjoying these video's alot! I've worked on engine's before but still find I'm learning more/different ways to approach things. Great stuff!
Awesome vids mate very informative!! Thank's mate.
Love your sense of humour Matt, the start of this video had me in stitches.
Thank God for harbor freight I got all the tools I needed for around a 100 bucks hone valve spring compressor and all the fancy gauges I mean it's not snap on stuff but they will get the job done on a budget
You might already spoke about this. Another price adder is hardens valve seats to use with the fuel that we now use older engine did not have them.
Thank you very much for very informative videos,help me a lot to decide what direction to take and look all options to rebuild or swipe using used engine. I have a 2000 Mazda MPV with a broken cylinder head(camshaft caps,lobe) cause by broken timing chain and I followed your steps to determine if is worked to rebuild to buy used engine since this SUV belong to a friend. Adding all the parts(gaskets,machine shop) goes over $1500, getting use engine about $800, also third alternative is to put and Ford Cougar engine since both block engines are DURATEC. all the cost not including labor (free) since the job is for a friend.
Well done Arahtson! This is exactly the point of the video and you absolutely made the correct call. Great story and this is a testimonial to others on how to rationally assess their situations. Sorry about your situation but you absolutely made the best decision and approached it rationally.
Interesting video. FYI, for that year of engine, and assuming it hasn't had cylinder head work before, it will require the installation of hardened valve seats due to the unavailability of leaded gas.
Ah I did not know that. This truck is far older than I am so I vaguely remember leaded gas when I was a tot. Good point and another consideration if we were to do machine work.
Schrodingers Box He's completely right. The original small block Chevy had the valve seats integral with the head. In other words they simply used the cast iron of the head as the valve seat. In 1975 when unleaded fuel was first mandated all manufacturers had to change over to a material call Stellite for their valve seats that could prevent the valve from wearing out when used with unleaded gas. So your heads would need to be machined and Stellite seats installed.
SATAMAN Schmidt Damn you guys are the best- that's fantastic information. At this point we are actually revisting the machine shop possibility and I will absolutely make sure to bring this up with them. I never would have even thought about this.
Thanks so much brother 👍👊
No problem 👍
I used that method years ago with an old craftsman socket and a rag :)
Are you referring to the impact-removal of the valve keepers? I thought of this but the problem is without the magnet the keepers stay on the valve. It takes a pretty strong magnet to draw the keepers from the valve.
Sometimes you'd have to smack it a couple times , but they will eventually fall out . Have to lay out a few rags on the table or finding them will be the next step in your head rebuild ;) Done automotive work since my first job at 13 yrs. old. From junkyard to dealerships . Cleanliness and common sense is the key . Still enjoy watching others and their way of doing things . Keep up the good work , great videos ;)
I have to say after every video that everyone has opinions but there is facts and when 2+3=5 it is that way no matter how you get it, plus talking engine blocks if the specs are that close to maximum anyway then youd probably be really really pushing the limits on getting the money worth and best performance with those specs, some manufactures make extremely generous tolerences as it is. I'm a GM guy but I know myself that with any engine you do have to realize that once your in it and it needs anything more than an average rebuild its not going to be a $500 build unless you have a major discount, and most tolerances if not all are pretty well off the border line of min/max spec. Atleast there are options as to get an engune to last a little longer if its just a little low on oil pressure or a small issue such as a little smoke, id go with a bit higher viscosity oil and or try using something that will swell seals a bit and atleast keeps from fouling up plugs, and of coarse I do enjoy the logic conversation and understand that its good to mention that it just makes since not to waste money. I can say that with coolant and oil leaks that theres usually a cheap way that anyone can get life out an engine and make it last before it fills the crankcase with a gallon of coolant and destroys almost everything or the oil is burning faster than is your fuel. God knows there are always people that have to be ignored because they are simply a little bit stuck on trying to make people think that they have the knowledge that surpasses all and knows things that doesn't even exist. But you do great at explaining thing and I'm sure you wouldn't like to continue reading for another hour, so I can end with saying that everyone is good at something if they want to be, you have your strengths too, mine is electrical and I use logic to learn and understand everything else. I have trouble staying on some topics but effort produces knowledge after a while, I started my life with high functioning autism but even though it doesn't go away I can use the brain I was born with to learn and do what some people could not dream of if want, I may not be able to do some things but I believe everyone is made for atleast one good thing and putting a little curious effort into learning you will succeed and I think alot of the people that dont want to learn won't learn and people who do will learn, they should learn and then they would be able say they got where they are not guessing and putting an effort into it, thanks for the videos and I appreciate the time and effort applied, thanks.
If the valve isn't seating perfectly I seen on other youtube videos that a valve job is fairly easy to DIY. It's a little time consuming but you use a suction cup valve tool with valve grinding compound.
I've got the right tool for doing just that, I got it from a yard sale many years ago and it still works like a charm for minor seating problems, and lapping the valves in on my '52 Flathead engine.
hey men, you´re the best, thanks for that priceless info.
Wow! Totally awesome!!!
Ignor chris h. Useful info relayed . Thx. On a budget head rebuild what parts would you prioritize getting new? Springs, rocker arms, etc...?
"Shark week" lol not heard that one before, my fav is "She's up on blocks". Appropriate for this vid too.
+junglejonty My favorite is to get a red towel for under and a red wash rag for after
keep an eye on that one, that first one. I had the little black clip pop of while i had the valve spring compressed and it threw one of the keepers to the moon so i had to go to a yard and grab another one, unless i wanted to wait a long time to get one ordered at the dealer. "the harbor freight backup vsc i had finished the job find"
22:30 Exactly my thoughts when I agreed to change my neighbor's Fuel Pump on a 1997 Chevy 1500 Suburban last week. Everything was fine till the guy I didn't know, whom was friends of the guy who owned the vehicle started helping me, pushed too far one way and as I told him he was pulling on the rubber fuel lines, and as I was still pulling the jack out from under the gas tank, he pushed it too far towards the driver side, kinking the metal lines. Instead of it costing $80 just for the fuel pump, now we had to get the complete fuel assembly costing around $250, although discounted at an auto parts store ordering online with in town pickup in 20 minutes, and those metal lines are unforgiving when it comes to loosening them. I prefer working with the quick connect fuel lines than with those dreaded threaded lines.
This project took twice as long as was originally anticipated using my shortcut method of air can spraying the top of the fuel tank. The only thing that pissed me off is the other guy tried putting some of the blame on me saying I was pulling on it. Not true, I was pulling the jack out of the way as he pushed, kinking the metal line, luckily only kinking the metal line that comes with the complete fuel assembly.
I wasn't going to say this but when you used the feeler gauge between the piston and cylinder wall you made a slight error, you needed a second gauge 180 degrees opposite of where you used the one you had, your measure was doubled by not taking into account the other side.
The only problem is that the proper measurement IS the gap on one side. You do NOT fill the gap on the other side to determine clearance. The proper method is measureing TOTAL CLEARANCE which is how I did it- though two gauges does the same you just have to double the reading.
In fact, just a brief moment's thought indicates this is more accurate that using two gauges because your halve your source of error margin combined with the fact you are doubling the measurement... using two gauges would be extremely foolish. If I measure a clearance of .002" with a 5% margin of error (MOE) this is far superior to two measurements with 5% MOE which now doubles the MOE to now become statistically significant.
ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS reduce error sources!!!!
Sad this rebuild isn't going to happen but it's an excellent case on what happens when an engine is too far gone to be revived on a budget. This engine can be saved yes absolutely just not within budget constraints set by the owner. Realistically what are the odds you're going to find a direct replacement that isn't going to need the same amount of work? I think unlikely. Probably best for the owner to find a more modern replacement and do some upgrades like fuel injection and electronic ignition. You could find a 10 year old engine for very cheap these days but you'd have to modify it to work. Would be cool to put an OBD-II compatible engine in that truck! Ah budgets, decisions must be made. :(
You know, given the owners personal family situation I think just cutting the losses altogether is the best decision as much as I hate to say it. But you're right - these projects are always about hard decisions. Most likely we will try to find a similar model year salvage engine with a 30 day guarantee that I can inspect before install
Schrodingers Box I guess I'm a little surprised that the owner has been keen to keep the same style engine. Perhaps it's about greater resale market for vintage parts under the hood, too. As you say, it's not whether a rebuild could be done, it's about how much it would cost.
spelunkerd Yeah its hard to explain since the owner has a sentimental attachment to this truck- sentimental attachments are pretty foreign to me lol. It's funny but just many people have wondered why bother at all with this paperweight as have said they would rather do a total rebuild on this truck before they would depreciate a new one. I know the owner has a long term goal of eventually completely restoring the truck and as you pointed out, having original components is a consideration in such ventures, but not so much on a '65 F100- it's not like a '67 fastback or something. The return on investment is far less significant for this truck.
At this time we are actually negotiating with a machine shop on a rebuild
Nice! If we could actually see this thing go through that would be awesome.
Another down and dirty valve seat/seal test. With the spark plug in the head, turn the head valve face up and fill the cylinder crown i.e. the dish with water for each cylinder. Then watch for water at the intake and exhaust runners. You can do that prior to disassembly and then after you clean the valves/seats up to validate if they were leaking because of crud. Additionally if you hand dry the the dish with a towel, if the head is cracked a "moisture line" will present. Not a perfect test, it would point you to the idea of magna-fluxing the head to confirm. Little time consuming the de/re of the values, but its free. On a budget build that's a good thing.
Regarding the point about not needing specialized tools, are you suggesting doing this without a hydraulic engine hoist and an engine stand? Those are both pretty expensive tools. Is it reasonable for a DIYer to disassemble and reassemble the engine piecemeal directly in the engine bay? Really enjoyed this whole series. Thanks!
Good point, didn't really consider that lol
I know of at least 2 other valve tools you can use for a head job (not to nitpick, just to inform other watcher's) One is a hammer style (similar to the socket idea before, but it has magnets to both remove, and also apply the keepers) not sure where to buy it, but i've seen a video of it and it seems quite handy\fast.
the other i think is for a SBC, but i used it on my jeep inline 6, it's basically a bent flatbar with a bolt hole and a forked end. This may be particular to pushrod engines, or even more specific then that. The idea is you put a rocker bolt in the bar then lever the spring down (typically with a rag holding the valves up while the head is laying on a bench) The tool cost me about 20 bucks locally, it's probably more like 5-10 dollers to buy one in the states. Quite inexpensive and just to check the valves on a head (to decide whether to send it to the shop of if lapping is all that's needed)
::edit:: opps, forgot to finish watching the video, you mentioned the other hammer style, my bad :P
animefreak5757 Have them all. I use depending on the application and whether head is on/off car
I got here after either blowing a head gasket or cracking/warping a cylinder head, but the car is only at 70,000 miles so hopefully the piston and valve walls are to spec. I'm making sure that I do extensive research on everything before I start turning any bolts at all.
That’s EXACTLY the right approach!!!!
Is it okay to steam clean the cylinder heads and other parts of the engine to clean up all of that carbon and oil build up? if not why so? Gonna be doing my first car project this summer on a gen 2 Firebird with a Chevy 350
i watched part 1-5 so far and ive learned so much! Thank you! ive been taking notes for when the time comes lol
subbed! keep it up
MrAlternation Yes it would be most recommended. My machine shop charges quite a bit for this, putting us out of budget, but if it was my car I would have done it.
Schrodingers Box Nice, good to hear. I have a steamfast SF-370WH. Gonna try to avoid the machine shop to cut cost.
If you where to fill the chamber w/ coolant before removing the valve, you could probably find the valve leaking if not sitting properly.
There is a small expanding ball tool that works just as what you used with the cylinder clearance check you would expand the bald ever 1/4th of an inch through the valve ride and measure god that was a bitch to do in class lol I rebuilt the 260 in my 64 fairlane in class here at college and we were graded on how well we measured EVERYTHING
Ok. I'm here to learn how and WHY.. yes I have the same feelings I had when attended my grad school.l don't want any 3 minutes videos. Thank you for knowledge, skills, and the experience you're sharing with us
Do you recommend polishing the valves beneath the seats? If not, is carb cleaner is what you recommend?
Congratulations for your good attitude towards learning. YES- I use a lapping compound to polish the valves beneath the seats and if my "marker test" shows there is very poor seating, I will usually consider machining.
Schrodingers Box you've just made my week easier. I'll inspect the block the way you did and (yes with a feeler guage) and if the block within the specs I'll do the ringes then polish the cylinder head ". But might not afford a mechine shoppe!
Thank you so very much for your instant response, much appreciated
I use to lap the valves in as long as the valves were not too pitted or the guides were too loose and with small block chevy engines the guides were allways wore out.
I just realized this video series is an older series. Thats ok,I found it entertaining anyways. I hear many burned out mechanics that really vent heavy duty concerning stupid people and arm chair mechanics. Because I worked in a shop,I can relate. I had my own snowmobile shop for a while and had a few idiots bring their sleds in wanting a half of an engine rebuild because they had a hole in a piston on a twin cylinder. Their idea was as long as the other one was still working, they were trying to save money. I usually ended up throwing it back together,charging for my time and telling them to get it out of my shop. My reputation as a shop owner ment more than some cheap ass wanting to save a few dollars,then having the other cylinder go bad within a month,then go on a rant telling everyone I did a bad job,especially to all their sledding buddys. Word of mouth in a smaller town will ruin you. I refused to do anything half assed on things like that. Imagine only rebuilding only half of a V-8 engine because one side still had compression,though not weak,but not great eather,then they come back later bitching because that motor isn't performing and the guys buddy's point out that the other side should have been done. Next thing you know, guys start showing up at your shop telling you about how you screwed up their friends engine,blah blah blah. Yeah,nope. I did rebuild an engine to factory manual specs,only to find out that that engine had problems right from the factory. I found out on line that those snowmobiles were over heating and the motors were melting down due to lack of air vents in the hood and also a bad carborator set up,right from the factory. I ended up having to rebuild it twice,then the owner dumped the sled on me. I was able to get the title and sell it. Because of the design issues however, the snowmobile was a fuel hog,too heavy and wasnt very popular. Skidoo really laid an egg with that model. I remember the 4 cylinder Mustang 2 engines ate camshafts because the oil ports leading to the upper heads were too small,resulting in oil starvation on the top end. I used to rebuild them and resell them all day long...no more issues,I reported the oil galleys,always fixed that issue.
In part 4, seems like you did with your F350 engine exactly what I want to do with my LT1. I.e. re ring and new bearings.... and you say it ran forever and even towed! So if my engine is in spec, new bearings and rings is good enough to buy it some extra life. Won't make it a 0 miles engine but will make it a lot younger than 100k Miles. No?
oh ya bm1 got one also =( im jelly of you guys for sure, thanks for sharing the video though. Enjoyed it.
You can also use a socket and hammer to remove the valve springs, although I'm sure you already know that...
+Luke Adams Yes but the problem is when the keepers are stuck it doesn't do anything. The trick with this tool is a super strong magnet that pulls the keepers away from the valve stem. But yes sometimes a socket will work if they jar loose
+Luke Adams that's what i do it helps to lightly tap the end of the valve and around the retainer to kind of break it loose then put the socket on and give it a good solid wack.
nice video
magnetic spark plug socket does the same job ;)
I have watched several videos on this subject, read books and even watch this work be done before. I am not going to question your methods, as an intelligent person I understand there are several ways to do any job. But I will make this statement, this video, this episode, YOU FORGOT one important thing........ you forgot your gloves...... :)
No i didnt- i intentionally did not wear them.
+Schrodingers Box You didn't need to stay clean if your girlfriend was laying eggs
I understand he's cash strapped but if he saved up $1500 how much longer to save up $2000 or $2500?
Also, your videos are the best! Especially now that etcg mostly seems to just do tool reviews.
Thanks, Jab, but mine were the best even when ETCG was doing car videos lol. But I can't hold a candle to ScannerDanner. If you haven't seen his channel, well, don't, cuz you probably won't come back here lol.
Your point on the financial plan is absolutely correct in my opinion and in fact the owner and I just so happened to discuss this last night so it's funny you bring this up. I'll bring up the final status in the next video but basically we came to a decision that we will bid the machine work out to several shops. If we can get the work done within budget, great, we go forward. If not, then we will tow the truck back to his house where he will store it and the motor until he saves enough to get the machine work done, however long that takes. But we decided against a used motor because he wants to keep it all original.
Schrodingers Box
I'm well aware of ScannerDanner. His vids are great! I admit that ETCG has lots of well made, informative videos. Basically, I watch several different channels to gather information that I could use in the future. I even watch Scotty Kilmer for motivation sometimes!
Schrodingers Box ScannerDanner is good but his narrative thread of logic wonders quite a bit during the explanation process in many of the videos I have seen. He is difficult to follow at times and on many occasion requires several video rewinds to grasp the logic jumping. At times he will string a tighter narrative thread of logic on the same material in the last ten minutes of the video. So, the result is 15 minutes of material in a 35 minute video. Great topics though.
Sandbag1300 ScannerDannery's information is quite good...I've only watched a few of his videos. It takes the most will to get through them over any other. I seem to mostly get back to Ericthecarguy because he has videos on possibly all of the basics to have a good foundation. I think he gets some things deeper than he knows them, but he's focused on the DIYer. Yes, Scotty Kilmer takes the least effort to watch. His video's almost take no time....so to really get one of his points the video is almost too fast, but it's perfect when my mind is tired from videos that are heavier on the detail. The other value for Scotty, is when I want a quick review on a job.
I find I learn things from ChrisFix that I get no where else (least watched so far). Briansmobile, I'll always be a fan because he's the one that got me started learning here on RUclips when I took on a job that ended up over my head last summer. To me, what I've learned most from Brian is a different approach to jobs. Before him, I never considered popping out some engine mounts to move an engine up and down to have clearance to do a job. Now I do it all the time. Eventually, watching him got me into Ericthecarguy and Scotty Kilmer.. And from, there I got to ChrisFix and ScannerDanner, and that brought me down to engine rebuilding with jafro and finally Schrodingers Box....
And for the most fun, I watch Mighty Car Mods. :) I learn the least here that I can use not having a turbo engine....but maybe one day. :)
I'm going to watch the video before I decide if my history on how I got here will actually be entertaining for anyone other than me, lol.
I decided to keep the comment. If you've finished all of your favorites, there are some good channels to look at here. :)
And finally we have Schrodinger's Box. Severe, witty, sarcasm that makes me laugh and great information? Oh yeah. :) I originally wanted to be a scientist before life kept getting in the way (possibly permanently so now) so I really get you. After that I dropped down to wanting to be a mechanical engineer. I may get back to that one, but in the meantime, I'm training to be a great, diagnostic mechanic.
DE Nichols
LOL ..I watch ALL of the guys you mentioned except chris fix ..have found him boring ..roman automotive seems good .
Brian is my favorite and eric second ..Just found this channel
"Shark Week" lol!!! new one on me. On the blob , pitch is flooded .
Ha ha! I love your smart-ass sense of humor. Question:
I use a caliper and do not have a micrometer as I would prefer not to spend the money on if I can prevent it. You also seem to rely on a caliper. Are there any engine-related measurements that you would use a micrometer instead? Many people doing engine work use micrometers as they may be more precise. What is your opinion on that?
+eStrangeSun Great question bro- I agree a caliper is not as precise and if I were doing say a expensive high performance rebuild I would be more inclined to use mic's but for what I do- rebuilding junkers at extreme budget to help the poor get by another 2 or 3 years at most, calipers work fine.
just paste the valves in with some valve grinding compound it will be right
+Brian Wynn How would the valve grinding compound "know" to only grind the high locations. I don't understand how it wouldn't just be equally abrasive to everything.
you keep using the grinding compound until you have removed the high locations
Brian Wynn Ohhhhhh....kaaaaaayyyyyy.... You do realize that's not even remotely the purpose of grinding compound right?
what do you believe the purpose of it is then ?
+Brian Wynn It is not used to make corrections in the seat other than very minimal ones if the valve angles of the seat and valve match such as after a valve job. You don't just take a valve that isn't seating and lap it and expect it is going to "be right".
It's good to know you have a handle on your telescoping bore gauge. It seems your whole existence is built around innuendo. A clean mind comes at a high premium no?
i want to know a simple question if you want to answer it, that how do you by hearing a pop sound after removing valve stem quickly, that it is within specs. what is the logic behind that. just for knowledge .
Swapnil Kurmi It is not a positive test- it is a negative test. I.E. if you do NOT hear the pop sound, then there is no way it is withing spec because clearly the stem to bore clearance is too big. If you do hear it pop, it does not mean it is within spec it just means it is likely it is and worth verifying.
thnxx . it really helps.
Random question, but if I turbo/super charge an engine, do I need to make adjustments in my fuel pressure?
You mah need to if the fuel trim indicates lean
Shark week, dont fear guys! According to my HAYNES manual on Women (manufactured 1980-1985), it says "if shark week is diagnosted then the DIY mechanic should throw chocolate bars from a distance at the woman (for details consult your local grocery shop)" I havent tried it, its a new book i got from ebay. It has a five out of five spanner mark next to this quote. Is it that complicated? We'll see that next week.
Rotf! The Haynes manual on women lol!!!! That's actually a great idea!
Owning an old vehicle like that means that the owner should be aware of the cost of restoration even not to pristine level its not cheap to restore/repair a 50 year old vehicle-- Personally I think many owners prefer to keep the original engine and refresh it and when was the last time you saw a 352 for sale? Also if the owner decides to sell a refreshed engine is a good selling point
Now that it is apart why not do the machine shop work and have a fine running engine in the end. I know that there is a cost to that but if the owner is in love with the truck he should have a good running engine. It is a good investment I would say. doing it cheap is not a good way to go. The truck looks solid and worthy of the consideration. even if the steering and suspension needs some work. The original engine is worth more than a paper weight.
+cornflake73 B-U-D-G-E-T
This would have worked out so much better had you only had a Haynes manual. Better still, with a Chilton manual, you could have turned this into a race engine, for like, uh, 800 bucks!
Jeepers creepers...where'd you get those keepers.
Ha!! I'll remember that one!!
Head job loooool yeah got you.
Shark week haha I dropped that Gem a few times.
Gosh finally someone got that!!
Hahaha! Nice double entendre!
thats pretty good to start the video LMAO
I can't help but wonder, that tool seems very nice for DISassembly but seems like it would be useless for reassembly and you would have to own one of those other tools in addition to it.
You are referring to the valve keeper tool? Actually it is just as useful for reassembly. You place the valve in placer with spring, set the keepers on the spring and place tool over everything and whack with hammer. When spring compresses the tool pushes the keepers into the valve lip and it's all perfectly installed. It's amazing!
how much those cost
Dear Schrodinger,
Please accept my apology for posting out of sequence.
I would like to return to your cylinder bore measurement technique for a moment.
In your original measurement you used the piston as a known diameter, no problem here.
My challenge is with the feeler gauge and the non wear lip at the top of the cylinder that you originally pointed out which was significant as expected with an engine with high mileage and wear.
This non worn lip is due to the area of the piston above the top ring, thus no cylinder wear. I am confused as to how you are getting an accurate measurement of the diameter of the cylinder below this "non wear" area when you are inserting the piston and feeler gauge through the non worn area.
So as in science let''s take the example to an extreme to see if it holds.
Let's make the non worn area 4" in diameter and the depth 1/4" and the worn part of the cylinder 4.125" when the feeler gauge and piston are inserted 1/8" the measurement will be of the non wear area. As the piston is inserted deeper into the cylinder, say 1/2" the feeler gauge will be at an angle between the piston and the non worn cylinder 1/4" and the worn part of the cylinder. I do not see how no matter how deep you insert the piston and feeler gauge into the cylinder you can get an accurate measurement, until it was all well below the non worn part of the cylinder.
I think the bore gauges you invested in are going to provide a much more accurate dimension of the diameter even allowing for the challenges you point out.
Thanks for your thoughtful analysis and time in making these videos.
Regards,
Steve
On theses heads on a budget I would clean the carbon then lap the valves @ new stem seals , only on high end race heads will you see a 3 angle valve job most machine shops only face the valves @ seats, I cheat @ use a drill on low speed @ lapping compound, chuck the valve in the drill @ pull it into the seat , be careful not to over do it only touch the valve to the seat 3 or 4 times then check contact , do this until you have good contact all around then stop. One word about valves ,springs @ retainers I would advise anyone that you should always keep valves, springs @ keepers together as intake @ exhaust valves have different springs @ keepers I # the valves @ springs @ keepers so I can put them back in the hole they came out of ,this can be as impotant as lifters or pistons in the right holes , they all have wear patterns. Keep in mind some auto parts stores have Loner Tools if you buy parts from them you can borrow these @ some can be rented from rental places, Check around some times if you can get the loner tools it may be worth paying a few dollars more than ordering on internet, Some times it is cheaper to buy a rebuilt engine with a warrenty.As for cambearings I always have a machine shop do these they can be can be tricky @ if you dont have the right tools or install one upside down or damage it you wont get oil to the top end @ if a cambearing spins it can also cause either low or high oil pressure depends on where the guage is located.I have even had a machine shop put one in up side down ,make sure all passages are lined up.before you install the cam.On a budget cam bearings are one thing I will some times not replace, one thing he did not cover is always replace freeze plugs, they are easy with motor removed but a nightmare to replace in the car.
,
+Jon Fisher Invest in a valve lapping tool my friend if your doing a lot of lapping. it adds a slight oscillation and gears the sucker down too. best 10 quid I ever spend for doing head rebuilds.
dude.... your savage. #whenyouhearotherpeopletalkingaboutcars
Wheres part 6? so all this and you don't even finish it?
it’s on the channel. Search “rebuild” on the channel search!
I´ll give you a THUMBS UP with capital letters , I don´t want to be in the effeminate guys list.
Matt, I don't understand the overbearing focus on budget. Bottom Line: If you want to play you've got to pay. Now I realize that this comment is coming from a guy with $100,000 worth of tools in his house, primarily woodworking but a lot of automotive as well, (and yes I do have a dial bore gauge - the one made by Johnson Level that's the subject of this tool review: Johnson Level Digital Bore Gauge.) I found this at zorotools.com, which had the best price, and is where I picked mine up. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
But, back to the point: If you want to have a classic car or truck as a toy you more or less have got to be willing and able to pay for it. I live about three miles from Westworld, the home of Barrett-Jackson, so maybe I am jaded about this but car collecting is a rich man's hobby and if he's not rich maybe your friend needs another hobby.
I wish you would stick with science, technology, theory of operation and dumping on stupid people in your videos. I really don't give a damn what things cost as I don't control that. If you need an engine you need an engine. Find a replacement somewhere or walk dude. When I was 29 years old - I'm 62 now - I was the assistant to a guy who built the motor for a car that led one lap of the Daytona 500 (that's because all of the really fast guys came in for fuel) and I know how much we spent building that engine. I think our pushrods cost more than $1500 in 1979 money. You make that amount sound like somebody's college fund. I don't consider 2K to be excessive for a complete rebuild. That's the going rate. RockAuto sells completely rebuilt motors from Marshall (a well respected rebuilder) for less than 2K which seems like a fair price.
You either want it or you don't. You can either afford it or you can't why all the agonizing? Make a video: "This is how you rebuild an engine properly." What it costs is what it costs.
I see your point, however if you have over $100K in tools at your house (or even $10K) then you likely also have something that most people watching this specific series don't have, and that's experience. It is easy for an inexperienced person with a blown motor to look at his options and believe that rebuilding the engine is probably the least expensive one. You and I of course know it is not. Looking at most of the cars you see in any of my videos- the values of the vehicle seldom go over $6 or $7K and usually are under $5K and most of my customers are very cash strapped which is why I help them out. Thus the decisions become far more difficult and the purpose of this series is to both help with the financial aspects involved as well as the procedure involved.
If money were no object for my viewers then there would be no use for my channel in the first place- everyone would be taking their ferrari's to the dealer!
My Testarossa hasn't seen the inside of a dealership in twenty five years. JUST KIDDING! but then again neither has my 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix (my daily driver with 230,000 miles on it which I fully intend to keep until it explodes.) Crazy, but here in Phoenix with just basic maintenance you can keep a car forever as rust just doesn't happen. I just paint mine every five years and it looks like new. You did notice my handle was SATA man. Now you know my preferred choice of spray gun. But, I will lower myself to an Iwata from time to time.
Your magic marker/sharpie test is flawed. Surely the area you mark first with the sharpie will dry quicker and therefore harder to remove than sharpie ink that has just been applied. Even a matter of seconds can make a difference. I've rebuilt many engines this way and use a stand drill with 20 grade stone bit to clean up the seats before lapping the valves with fine paste. All of them have seated perfectly and passed the gasoline in the combustion chamber test without any problems. You just junked a perfectly good engine that could have been rescued.
Incorrect. You let the ink dry first and even if you don't if there NO CONTACT then there is no contact, it doesn't matter.
Thanks for fast reply. Keep up the good work.
Endometrial ablation means "shark week" has been canceled forever.... you can thank me later, but right now you need to schedule that appointment for your girlfriend.
Time for head!!😂😂
I would't look for another engine I would keep the original and rebuild If the customer can't afford it sell it on to someone who can do it justice.
Why not put some special paste on the valves (forgot the name) and just spin them with stick with suction cup... Old way I mean;)
Vavle grinding compound, I believe you are referring to. The reason I don't do that is for the same reason you wouldn't drill a hole with a wobbly drill bit- since the valve is not seating right to begin with, there is no way to be sure I am grinding the valve square and evenly in the seating area.
Schrodingers Box
You are genius! Why I didn't find you before;) Would you use this grinding compound at all in other situations?
Schrodingers Box Hi Matt,
Do you mean not to use valve lapping compound at all for any reason on the valves, or just in this situation with that particular valve? Thanks in advance!
RattlerBK I am saying only use valve lapping compound if you know the surface is even. Valve lapping compound will not "fix" an out-of-round or unevenly worn valve surface.
Schrodingers Box Thank you for you quick response, but by the out-of-round valve surface do you mean both the valve seat, and/or the valve face which touch? I feel this is stupid question, but I'm a little confused on this.
Thumbs up @7:50 lol
Those snap gauges are less than 10 bucks on ebay. Just saying .
its funny cylinder overbore is only 10 dollars a hole here.
Where is that??? No way it would be $10 at any shop I have ever been to