thank you for the review, I bought 3 carts of this film and I was a little worried if I messed up (especially since I have a fixed focus camera) but after watching this I feel a lot better and it doesn't look too bad. I've had it stored in the freezer till I can finally use it
This takes me back! I had a cheap Super 8 camera as a child and my brother had a Fuji Single 8 camera which I coveted as it was so well made. My late father also had a somewhat more sophisticated Canon and I might just get it and have a play to see if it still works.
Hey! Cool vid! It's really great that you intend to try out the Wolverine super8 scanner. Be mindful to buy the 1080p version then, because only that has the function to scan negative film (the cheaper one only scans slide film). You would really be taking a bullet for the team, since exactly 0 people have shown their results scanning negative super8 film with the Wolverine. Continue to make great vids!
Definitely one of my go-to stocks. I have yet to find a situation short of total darkness where I couldn't use V3 200T. True, it doesn't have the reach of 500T, but it works just fine shooting at night on Hollywood and Highland, plus the grain is finer. AFAIC, it's the perfect Super-8 stock...at least until Kodak makes V3 250D officially available. I always wondered why they never did that.
Great video as always! At first I was skeptical about using 50D as a general stock, but it turned out to be very forgiving. I'd dare to say that even indoors it can be a useful choice (my s8 camera's max. aperture is f1.4) though I love the grain structure and the astounding dynamic range of 500T. (I love 500T so much that I've shot many rolls of it in my Leica too.) One thing for sure: grain in 8mm usually seems bigger than in larger formats. 200T is kind of an in-between choice (with grain being on the sweet spot), but for some reason people don't like to shoot this stock that much in s8 format (just look for examples in vimeo, you'll find just a few). But I think your video proves 200T as a viable choice.
Hi Noah , great video as always , i was just gifted a pack of Tri X super 8 film but it seems Kodak no longer lists the expiration date as i could not find it . Any idea how to find out this info ?
Always enjoy your videos. Thanks. 1. Any reason I can't/shouldn't use a 67mm 85 filter on my Canon 1014xl-s lens directly instead of using the 72mm on the hood? I can't think of any. 2. Do you know if the 1014 will auto-exposure compensate for use of the 85 with the CCA switch defeated? 3. The 1014 only reads up to 400T. Do you know of problems shooting 500T with the camera such as underexposure? Thanks!
Worth noting that some labs can develop Tri-X black and white as a negative, even though its a reversal film. Meaning you can get more information out of it and you can get it scanned - but cant project it
True! In the absence of a true negative stock being available for Super 8, having tri-x done as a negative allows for more flexibility in black and white for sure
I've been wondering what Super 8 film would be best for some Stop Motion Animation and I feel like this would be best in a controlled indoor environment with a couple lights. Plus the medium grain is perfect so it still has its delicious film look. Can't wait to test it out! But I'd be curious what others use? I feel like stop motion on Super 8 is mysterious, could be a fun video one day!
It depends. Do you want a negative or a positive? And even then you can also use Daylight / Cool White LED lights as your lighting for your stop Motion shooting indoors. So you wouldn't even have to worry about proper whitebalance. Daylight Lights would be in the 7200K colour-temperature region. That would allow you to shoot indoors on Vision3 50D without problems, getting a very fine-grain colour negative that can be digitized and also blown up to other filmformats like 16mm. In general Negative Stock gives you better dynamic range and lighting "headroom" since reversal stock needs to be lit a lot more accurate.
My family had an ancient 8mm camera light when I was little that would start to smoke and could set the wrong nearby items on fire if you left it on too long. My mom caught me playing with it once and had the nerve to call it "dangerous" and I never saw it again. 🙄
Great videos and informative content. Have you thought of a video about standard 8mm? There seems to be renewed interest. Most 16mm film stocks could be used. Just put them on a 25ft reel. It doesn't even need slitting if scanned. I've just bought a USSR Quartz 5 for £30. In it's case in the original cardboard box. Reflex viewfinder and back wind. A camera with this spec would be £100's if it'd got Bolex on the box. And if you're feeling really ambitious, I've noticed that USSR 35mm cinematography cameras are quite cheap.......
I've done an intro the 8mm and I've got some film with me that's waiting for a chance to be shot! 16mm in an 8mm camera is a bad idea though, 16mm lacks the appropriate number of sprocket holes for 8mm cameras. ruclips.net/video/VdU9u-uqCJE/видео.html
Just bought a Nizo S2 and wanting to shoot an outdoor/indoor event during the day. Would you suggest the 200T for that? Also, is there a reason why we should use the bulb filter for 200T outside vs the sun filter for 500T outside? I’ve loved all the info you’ve provided on your channel! I’ve definitely gone down the worm hole
200T is a good stock for outdoor/indoor stuff! For the filter I recommend checking out this video I made that should help you out! It can be just a bit confusing to explain sometimes: ruclips.net/video/snx-lPyFbIQ/видео.html
I have the yashica super 800 ELECTRO. I would like to know if you have the filter key and If you have it its there an indicator on camera? I don't have it ... so I'm a little worried.
Hi all, new to this group. Wondering about Super8 dynamic range: How many stops from metered middle grey can handle, let's say, KODAK VISION3 200T Color Negative ? How do you normally meter if you want to preserve highlights / shadows ? Thanks !
I'm now using negative stocks for the first time in 14 years of having this hobby as ektachrome is not available anymore in japan and there is a world wide shortage for all reversal stocks... I'm really close to just quit the hobby if it wasn't there is still the option to get a print that I can project. Only scanning is making my super8 camera just a super expensive digital camera..... I hope things will change quick and reversal stocks will be widely available again.
I would love to, but at the moment my Nizo is out of commission. When it runs it has the loudest most unpleasant squealing noise from the motor so I’m attempting to see if I can fix it up!
To be honest 200T would be my standard negative stock of choice for shooting colour negative on Super 8. Even though the 50D looks really nice as well.
Given that incandescent lightbulbs are basically never sold at all these days, how much indoor light is even tungsten-based anymore? I know you can get the warmer-balanced LED bulbs but most of the ones I've experienced (and bought) are cooler and closer to daylight.
Ya it’s definitely something that is changing for sure and there’s also no longer things like tungsten balanced slide film for photography anymore either. For cinema stuff though it’s likely aimed at the idea of using studio lighting and working with that white balance so through filters and gels. Also because all super 8 cameras have a filter specifically for tungsten to daylight conversion it’s not like they would suddenly change the color temperature of the stock either. It is interesting to think about how much lighting has changed in the last 20 years and more for sure.
@@AnalogResurgence I actually have two different-temperature bulbs in my main basement lights because one burnt out and I forgot if it was "soft white" or "bright white". Regardless, it's actually hard to find consumer pure-daylight LED bulbs that are at 5500K, since I think that colour would be too harsh for home settings. And they aren't tungsten temperature, either. So shooting film indoors is a bit of a gamble even with filters, though I guess it always has been unless you have a flash or strobes
I need some help/advice. I've just (hopefully) shot a full cartridge of Kodak Vision3 200T film. However, despite definitely having shot for over 3 and a half mins and the counter showing as finished the actual roll/film does not say exposed on it. Does all these cartridges say exposed on the end when done? I've put an X on the film and tried it again in two different cameras that work, so does that mean the roll is definitely finished/exposed as it's not now moving on? I hope that makes sense and apologies for the random question.
The end of every cartridge should have 'Exposed' printed on the film, but sometimes it fades! Regardless though, if you see that the film is notched (dvdconversions.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Exposed-Super-8-Film-1024x484.jpg) it means you're at the end of the roll, if the film doesn't look like this then it isn't at the end.
@@AnalogResurgence Thankyou, it looks now that the roll might have jammed or stopped part way through but the camera continued as normal. I think it's come free again now, I've no idea how much I might have shot or how much is left but I'll try and finish it off and hope I've managed to capture at least some usable footage. Thanks again 🙂👍🏼
I hope some of you might help me with my question. A lot of the time when you see a super 8 footage it feels and looks like it’s been sped up a bit. It is because when you shoot the film the camera is at 18fps but when they they scan the film they do it at 24fps. Is that correct? Can anyone explain this to me please thanks 🙏
Yes that is often true although many labs will also scan at 18 to preserve the speed if that information is provided. If you have a film shot at 18 and scanned at 24, then you can change the playback speed to 75% (18 being 75% of 24) in an editing program to return it to the proper speed.
@@AnalogResurgence thanks for the reply. I was just wondering about that. I actually like the slight speed. I feel like it gives the extra mood. I got a nice super 8 camera and soon I’ll be getting some 200Ts
Can you do a video on Cine8/Double 8/Regular 8 film? The cameras are dirt cheap and stupid reliable. Look into a Yashica 8-Eiii. Can be had for around $40 USD and comes with a 3 lens turret.
If you want to shoot 10m Std8 (only), a Leicina 8S ( www.leicashop.com/vintage_en/leica-leicina-8s-sku30843-2.html ; note that this has a stupidly inflated price; I got my three 8S cameras off eBay.de for around 50eur each) is one of the best choices. The (prime) lens are VERY sharp. The only problem is that AA rechargeables don’t really fit into the battery compartment (they’re too large compared to regular AA batteries); in order not to break the latter, don’t use rechargeables. However, if you prefer 30m rolls and can put up with a substantially larger camera, a Bolex H-8 Rex, with its (also very sharp) prime lens, may be the safest bet. Shooting on 30m film is substantially more economical and the film loop, which is missing from all “compact” 10m cameras, guarantees there won’t be “jumping” frames. Note that my Leicina 8S cameras also produce steady footage, unlike for example my Quartz DS-8 mk 3 ones (also see the discussion at ruclips.net/video/4mKPoxzu7vw/видео.html ). Your mileage may, however, vary - you may not be lucky.
Man, someone needs to make a 3D printed copy of the lomo tank. I’ve said it before, but just in case anyone with 3D printing knowledge wants to create a machine that prints money...
Most super 8 cameras have a fixed shutter speed and Iso is fixed by the film stock. And if you know your shutter speed and iso you can meter for those two parameters and get your aperture
I just bought 10 of these for 95€ expired in 2015. So 9,50€ each. New they cost about 43€ and 6-7 years over the bbd will not have any effect on the film i think.
Hi. I would like start my adventure with Super 8. But I would like make films and project it after developing. Which film should I buy. I understand to avoid kodachrome. What about ektachrome? Thank you for answer.
7 Minutes of 8mm will cost me the same price as a good FullHD 1080P Camcorder, (I have 8mm cameras), can you convince me to burn money on just even 1x8mm cart?
@@lobsterbark would you mind explaining the point of camcorder is video can’t make movies?, I. can make movies with video at any length I want, any frame rate and any color cast I want, so please convince me to shell out $100 on 3.5 minutes of grain??? my point is I do not get it
@@xprcloud It's not a movie though, or it's at least a lot more work to make it into a movie. A movie and a video are very different, movie is either on film or shot and edited in such a way it appears to be on film. 8mm will always inherently look like film because it is film. If you shoot on a camcorder, it takes a lot more work to achieve that, if it's even possible with the specific model you may use.
@@lobsterbark OK So the resulting grainy scratch dust jittery image, that costs a small fortune is considered "Art"?, while for more than 100 years, film makers attempted to achieve the exact opposite, sound color stereoscopic, high resolution, and 4K exceeds the original movie makers wildest dreams?, not sure about the $100 except curiosity
If you don't want to buy a wolverine for your review let me know I'd be happy to let you borrow mine. I need it for a project at the end of feb-early march but I'd be happy to ship it to you after that.
If you lived in Europe (EU), I could also loan my two Volverines. (One specially modded to allow for films up to 8.25mm wide, caused by uneven slitting of Double 8 footage.)
I don't want to sound mean (honestly) but those sample shots were very unimpressive. I've seen Super 8 footage that is quantum leaps better than that (taken on Nikon R10, Canon 1014XL-S and Minolta Super 8 cameras). If the footage you showed was the best that Super 8 could do, I would have given up on it years ago. I hope I don't offend. I'm only mentioning this in case someone who is interested in Super 8 watches this presentation and subsequently thinks that this is typical for Supr 8. Well exposed and focused Super 8 can rival good quality digital.
That's very fair! There's a wide range of quality that can be had with Super 8 and definitely I've seen footage as well from cameras like the ones that you have mentioned which would probably look good blown up to 35mm. In the years since this video I've picked up an R10 myself that I should maybe show-off footage from a bit more in comparison to what's typically achieved with some of the cheaper and lower-end Super 8 cameras out there.
Just my personal view, but the Bauer S715XL has given me the best Super 8 images I have ever shot. (Using 40asa Kodachrome) and most people would imagine that I'd taken the film on 16mm. I often use the Canon 1014XL-S. The benefit if this camera is that I can deliberately under or over expose. Kodachrome, slightly underexposed (ie, by about 1/4 stop, gave the most exquisite results. I have a large fridge, full of Kodachrome. (I'm ever hopeful that someone will restart processing K14 one day).
You truly are the God of Super 8 film
Thanks for the review! I've been shooting S8 since the 90s. Love the format, love your videos!
thank you for the review, I bought 3 carts of this film and I was a little worried if I messed up (especially since I have a fixed focus camera) but after watching this I feel a lot better and it doesn't look too bad. I've had it stored in the freezer till I can finally use it
This takes me back! I had a cheap Super 8 camera as a child and my brother had a Fuji Single 8 camera which I coveted as it was so well made. My late father also had a somewhat more sophisticated Canon and I might just get it and have a play to see if it still works.
Already watched this, but watching again as I have a roll of this on the way.
I really am loving your videos! Thank you so much.
this is all just so helpful for a beginner! Thanks for all this info!
Professional review of films, thank you!
Excellent video, sir!!!
I love your vids they are really different from other channels I watch. Also I have kodac altra max in a cannon ae-1.
Great Video. Keep up the good work
I love to project my super 8 so have the extra expense of having to buy reversal. Great results, buddy!
Hey! Cool vid! It's really great that you intend to try out the Wolverine super8 scanner. Be mindful to buy the 1080p version then, because only that has the function to scan negative film (the cheaper one only scans slide film). You would really be taking a bullet for the team, since exactly 0 people have shown their results scanning negative super8 film with the Wolverine. Continue to make great vids!
Definitely one of my go-to stocks. I have yet to find a situation short of total darkness where I couldn't use V3 200T. True, it doesn't have the reach of 500T, but it works just fine shooting at night on Hollywood and Highland, plus the grain is finer. AFAIC, it's the perfect Super-8 stock...at least until Kodak makes V3 250D officially available. I always wondered why they never did that.
Great video as always! At first I was skeptical about using 50D as a general stock, but it turned out to be very forgiving. I'd dare to say that even indoors it can be a useful choice (my s8 camera's max. aperture is f1.4) though I love the grain structure and the astounding dynamic range of 500T. (I love 500T so much that I've shot many rolls of it in my Leica too.) One thing for sure: grain in 8mm usually seems bigger than in larger formats. 200T is kind of an in-between choice (with grain being on the sweet spot), but for some reason people don't like to shoot this stock that much in s8 format (just look for examples in vimeo, you'll find just a few). But I think your video proves 200T as a viable choice.
The grain on 50D can’t be beat! 200T definitely seems to be overlooked but there’s nothing wrong with it at all.
Noah. Can you make a video on super 8 about what film stocks older cameras with asa 40 and 160 can use.
Hi Noah , great video as always , i was just gifted a pack of Tri X super 8 film but it seems Kodak no longer lists the expiration date as i could not find it . Any idea how to find out this info ?
Thank you!! Where did you get your LED light and how did you screw it in? I have a Canon Electronic Zoom 1014xls…
Always enjoy your videos. Thanks.
1. Any reason I can't/shouldn't use a 67mm 85 filter on my Canon 1014xl-s lens directly instead of using the 72mm on the hood? I can't think of any.
2. Do you know if the 1014 will auto-exposure compensate for use of the 85 with the CCA switch defeated?
3. The 1014 only reads up to 400T. Do you know of problems shooting 500T with the camera such as underexposure?
Thanks!
Worth noting that some labs can develop Tri-X black and white as a negative, even though its a reversal film. Meaning you can get more information out of it and you can get it scanned - but cant project it
True! In the absence of a true negative stock being available for Super 8, having tri-x done as a negative allows for more flexibility in black and white for sure
In this video you mentioned a video detailing methods to use when switching cartridges mid-roll. Can you point that video out for me? Thanks!
ruclips.net/video/syFxzyDjHDg/видео.html
I've been wondering what Super 8 film would be best for some Stop Motion Animation and I feel like this would be best in a controlled indoor environment with a couple lights. Plus the medium grain is perfect so it still has its delicious film look. Can't wait to test it out! But I'd be curious what others use? I feel like stop motion on Super 8 is mysterious, could be a fun video one day!
It depends. Do you want a negative or a positive? And even then you can also use Daylight / Cool White LED lights as your lighting for your stop Motion shooting indoors. So you wouldn't even have to worry about proper whitebalance. Daylight Lights would be in the 7200K colour-temperature region. That would allow you to shoot indoors on Vision3 50D without problems, getting a very fine-grain colour negative that can be digitized and also blown up to other filmformats like 16mm. In general Negative Stock gives you better dynamic range and lighting "headroom" since reversal stock needs to be lit a lot more accurate.
My family had an ancient 8mm camera light when I was little that would start to smoke and could set the wrong nearby items on fire if you left it on too long. My mom caught me playing with it once and had the nerve to call it "dangerous" and I never saw it again. 🙄
There is one lab in Berlin that makes prints from Super8 color negatives. This means you can project your films shot on Vision3.
Andec Lab!
Great videos and informative content. Have you thought of a video about standard 8mm? There seems to be renewed interest. Most 16mm film stocks could be used. Just put them on a 25ft reel. It doesn't even need slitting if scanned. I've just bought a USSR Quartz 5 for £30. In it's case in the original cardboard box. Reflex viewfinder and back wind. A camera with this spec would be £100's if it'd got Bolex on the box. And if you're feeling really ambitious, I've noticed that USSR 35mm cinematography cameras are quite cheap.......
I've done an intro the 8mm and I've got some film with me that's waiting for a chance to be shot! 16mm in an 8mm camera is a bad idea though, 16mm lacks the appropriate number of sprocket holes for 8mm cameras.
ruclips.net/video/VdU9u-uqCJE/видео.html
Man I hope NCL never shuts down, great video man!
From what I know they’re usually very busy! Even during last year amidst shutdowns they were processing a lot of film.
@@AnalogResurgence that's awesome! I'm glad I have a place like that so close by
I am looking for a cheap paper for contact sheets and having some fun ... which one would you suggest?
Hey what do I do if my camera doesn’t have the filter
Just bought a Nizo S2 and wanting to shoot an outdoor/indoor event during the day. Would you suggest the 200T for that? Also, is there a reason why we should use the bulb filter for 200T outside vs the sun filter for 500T outside? I’ve loved all the info you’ve provided on your channel! I’ve definitely gone down the worm hole
200T is a good stock for outdoor/indoor stuff! For the filter I recommend checking out this video I made that should help you out! It can be just a bit confusing to explain sometimes:
ruclips.net/video/snx-lPyFbIQ/видео.html
Nikon r10 gang
Oh dang represent
R.I.P on that jammed roll of Ektachrome you had. Pour one out
@@AnalogResurgence if I ever get a Super 8 it will 100% be an R10.
Don’t sell it
is it me or there's a lot of scanner noise added to the film grain? Great video as usual though
Can you make a review of Nikon r10?
Really wanna know how it stands out compare to other s8 cameras.
I have the yashica super 800 ELECTRO. I would like to know if you have the filter key and If you have it its there an indicator on camera? I don't have it ... so I'm a little worried.
Hi all, new to this group. Wondering about Super8 dynamic range: How many stops from metered middle grey can handle, let's say, KODAK VISION3 200T Color Negative ?
How do you normally meter if you want to preserve highlights / shadows ? Thanks !
Do a review about Ektachrome 100d and Tri-x, reversal film gives a positive fibe ;)
Does anyone make prints from negative movie film that can be projected?
I'm now using negative stocks for the first time in 14 years of having this hobby as ektachrome is not available anymore in japan and there is a world wide shortage for all reversal stocks... I'm really close to just quit the hobby if it wasn't there is still the option to get a print that I can project. Only scanning is making my super8 camera just a super expensive digital camera..... I hope things will change quick and reversal stocks will be widely available again.
i am new to the format i have someone getting me a nalcom ftl 100 does any one have info this super 8 is it too much camera for beginer??
I’m testin my luck here, but can you help me with any info on the “gaf s/72 super 8 camera”? I don’t know anywhere else to get information on this
Here's a little spec sheet, but that's about all the information I have: www.filmkorn.org/super8data/database/cameras_list/cameras_gaf/gaf_s72.htm
Can you make more videos with your Nizo cameras?
I would love to, but at the moment my Nizo is out of commission. When it runs it has the loudest most unpleasant squealing noise from the motor so I’m attempting to see if I can fix it up!
To be honest 200T would be my standard negative stock of choice for shooting colour negative on Super 8. Even though the 50D looks really nice as well.
Waiting for obligatory Kodak super eight camera reference
Haha next time
Given that incandescent lightbulbs are basically never sold at all these days, how much indoor light is even tungsten-based anymore? I know you can get the warmer-balanced LED bulbs but most of the ones I've experienced (and bought) are cooler and closer to daylight.
Ya it’s definitely something that is changing for sure and there’s also no longer things like tungsten balanced slide film for photography anymore either. For cinema stuff though it’s likely aimed at the idea of using studio lighting and working with that white balance so through filters and gels. Also because all super 8 cameras have a filter specifically for tungsten to daylight conversion it’s not like they would suddenly change the color temperature of the stock either. It is interesting to think about how much lighting has changed in the last 20 years and more for sure.
@@AnalogResurgence I actually have two different-temperature bulbs in my main basement lights because one burnt out and I forgot if it was "soft white" or "bright white". Regardless, it's actually hard to find consumer pure-daylight LED bulbs that are at 5500K, since I think that colour would be too harsh for home settings. And they aren't tungsten temperature, either. So shooting film indoors is a bit of a gamble even with filters, though I guess it always has been unless you have a flash or strobes
I need some help/advice.
I've just (hopefully) shot a full cartridge of Kodak Vision3 200T film.
However, despite definitely having shot for over 3 and a half mins and the counter showing as finished the actual roll/film does not say exposed on it.
Does all these cartridges say exposed on the end when done?
I've put an X on the film and tried it again in two different cameras that work, so does that mean the roll is definitely finished/exposed as it's not now moving on?
I hope that makes sense and apologies for the random question.
The end of every cartridge should have 'Exposed' printed on the film, but sometimes it fades! Regardless though, if you see that the film is notched (dvdconversions.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/Exposed-Super-8-Film-1024x484.jpg) it means you're at the end of the roll, if the film doesn't look like this then it isn't at the end.
@@AnalogResurgence Thankyou, it looks now that the roll might have jammed or stopped part way through but the camera continued as normal.
I think it's come free again now, I've no idea how much I might have shot or how much is left but I'll try and finish it off and hope I've managed to capture at least some usable footage. Thanks again 🙂👍🏼
Hello,do you still make new Videos?
I hope some of you might help me with my question. A lot of the time when you see a super 8 footage it feels and looks like it’s been sped up a bit. It is because when you shoot the film the camera is at 18fps but when they they scan the film they do it at 24fps. Is that correct? Can anyone explain this to me please thanks 🙏
Yes that is often true although many labs will also scan at 18 to preserve the speed if that information is provided. If you have a film shot at 18 and scanned at 24, then you can change the playback speed to 75% (18 being 75% of 24) in an editing program to return it to the proper speed.
@@AnalogResurgence thanks for the reply. I was just wondering about that. I actually like the slight speed. I feel like it gives the extra mood. I got a nice super 8 camera and soon I’ll be getting some 200Ts
Can you do a video on Cine8/Double 8/Regular 8 film? The cameras are dirt cheap and stupid reliable.
Look into a Yashica 8-Eiii. Can be had for around $40 USD and comes with a 3 lens turret.
Definitely planning to shoot some regular 8 this year!
@@AnalogResurgence looking forward to it.
If you want to shoot 10m Std8 (only), a Leicina 8S ( www.leicashop.com/vintage_en/leica-leicina-8s-sku30843-2.html ; note that this has a stupidly inflated price; I got my three 8S cameras off eBay.de for around 50eur each) is one of the best choices. The (prime) lens are VERY sharp. The only problem is that AA rechargeables don’t really fit into the battery compartment (they’re too large compared to regular AA batteries); in order not to break the latter, don’t use rechargeables.
However, if you prefer 30m rolls and can put up with a substantially larger camera, a Bolex H-8 Rex, with its (also very sharp) prime lens, may be the safest bet. Shooting on 30m film is substantially more economical and the film loop, which is missing from all “compact” 10m cameras, guarantees there won’t be “jumping” frames. Note that my Leicina 8S cameras also produce steady footage, unlike for example my Quartz DS-8 mk 3 ones (also see the discussion at ruclips.net/video/4mKPoxzu7vw/видео.html ). Your mileage may, however, vary - you may not be lucky.
you gotta start recommending Nicholas Coyle Film and Video Transfer! he has the most affordable prices for scanning super 8 in 2K and 4K
For sunset scene is it better to get 50d or 250d?
I'd go for 250D.
Man, someone needs to make a 3D printed copy of the lomo tank. I’ve said it before, but just in case anyone with 3D printing knowledge wants to create a machine that prints money...
There is a copy of the reel that can be 3d printed the guys said that soon they will make the tank
Edit it's called GNAL not a lomo tank
@@briansegarra9312 that’s awesome news! Thanks
How would you meter manually with a lightmeter?
Most super 8 cameras have a fixed shutter speed and Iso is fixed by the film stock. And if you know your shutter speed and iso you can meter for those two parameters and get your aperture
@@DJDiarrhea right, thanks!
I just bought 10 of these for 95€ expired in 2015. So 9,50€ each. New they cost about 43€ and 6-7 years over the bbd will not have any effect on the film i think.
Hi. I would like start my adventure with Super 8. But I would like make films and project it after developing. Which film should I buy. I understand to avoid kodachrome. What about ektachrome? Thank you for answer.
Ektachrome for color and Tri-X for Black and white are the two Super 8 films to shoot if you want to project them after!
@@AnalogResurgence thank you very much. By the way, very good job. Your films are very helpful for me.
I need to fix my beaulieu...
send it to Björn Andersson in Sweden, he does great work with beaulieu’s. he’s been working on them for years nd actually worked for the company
7 Minutes of 8mm will cost me the same price as a good FullHD 1080P Camcorder, (I have 8mm cameras),
can you convince me to burn money on just even 1x8mm cart?
8mm is film. You can make short movies with it. Camcorder is video, can't do movies.
and you can always go the much cheaper (if you can put up with B/W film) Double Super 8 way...
@@lobsterbark would you mind explaining the point of camcorder is video can’t make movies?, I. can make movies with video at any length I want, any frame rate and any color cast I want, so please convince me to shell out $100 on 3.5 minutes of grain??? my point is I do not get it
@@xprcloud It's not a movie though, or it's at least a lot more work to make it into a movie. A movie and a video are very different, movie is either on film or shot and edited in such a way it appears to be on film. 8mm will always inherently look like film because it is film. If you shoot on a camcorder, it takes a lot more work to achieve that, if it's even possible with the specific model you may use.
@@lobsterbark OK So the resulting grainy scratch dust jittery image, that costs a small fortune is considered "Art"?,
while for more than 100 years, film makers attempted to achieve the exact opposite, sound color stereoscopic, high resolution, and 4K exceeds the original movie makers wildest dreams?, not sure about the $100 except curiosity
If you don't want to buy a wolverine for your review let me know I'd be happy to let you borrow mine. I need it for a project at the end of feb-early march but I'd be happy to ship it to you after that.
Thanks! I’m examining my options though and I might already have that sorted out!
@@AnalogResurgence okay awesome.
If you lived in Europe (EU), I could also loan my two Volverines. (One specially modded to allow for films up to 8.25mm wide, caused by uneven slitting of Double 8 footage.)
I don't want to sound mean (honestly) but those sample shots were very unimpressive. I've seen Super 8 footage that is quantum leaps better than that (taken on Nikon R10, Canon 1014XL-S and Minolta Super 8 cameras). If the footage you showed was the best that Super 8 could do, I would have given up on it years ago.
I hope I don't offend. I'm only mentioning this in case someone who is interested in Super 8 watches this presentation and subsequently thinks that this is typical for Supr 8.
Well exposed and focused Super 8 can rival good quality digital.
That's very fair! There's a wide range of quality that can be had with Super 8 and definitely I've seen footage as well from cameras like the ones that you have mentioned which would probably look good blown up to 35mm. In the years since this video I've picked up an R10 myself that I should maybe show-off footage from a bit more in comparison to what's typically achieved with some of the cheaper and lower-end Super 8 cameras out there.
Just my personal view, but the Bauer S715XL has given me the best Super 8 images I have ever shot. (Using 40asa Kodachrome) and most people would imagine that I'd taken the film on 16mm. I often use the Canon 1014XL-S. The benefit if this camera is that I can deliberately under or over expose.
Kodachrome, slightly underexposed (ie, by about 1/4 stop, gave the most exquisite results. I have a large fridge, full of Kodachrome. (I'm ever hopeful that someone will restart processing K14 one day).