You also have to remember that film has different speeds under different lights. When you’re shooting Portra 400 in tungsten light it’s only 100 ASA. The same goes for tungsten film. The Vision3 200T is rated for 125 ASA in daylight. So you have to change the meter in your camera when you’re shooting in daylight (Rob Hardy rated it at a 100 ASA for Mission Impossible Fallout for overcast days). And when you’re using a 85 correction filter (which I still advice you to do) you’ll get an effective light sensitivity of 60 ASA.
The film doesn't have different speed under different lights - an 85 filter reduces exposure by 2/3 of a stop which is why you rate it at 125iso (closest meter setting) to account for having the 85 in front of the lens. Rob Hardy would have rated his film at 100iso to give himself an extra 1/3 (ish) of a stop over exposure. Portra film (a daylight film) requires an 80A filter (full blue) to correct the tungsten (warm white) light to daylight white which reduces the light hitting the film by 2 stops - which would mean setting your meter to 100iso.
Hello, I agree completely that the Epson flatbed is not the greatest, but one I thought I'd mention/ask is what your settings are in it for "Color control", which you can reach in Epson Scan by going to Configuration>>Color. If you do that and uncheck the "Color Control" box (enabled by default) and choose "No Correction" instead, you will wind up with a much, much flatter scan, which should be a lot more RAW-looking, and easier to process. I would love to know how the Pakon compares to this setting!
I tried 500t recently thanks to your vision 3 videos, had it professionally developed and scanned, and I absolutely love it. So cinematic and great for night shooting. If it wasn't such a pain I'd shoot it more often.
No sabía nada de esto y me entretuve caleta con toda la explicación. Todavía no logro comprender la magia de disparar análogo, pero cada vez que estoy desmotivado con la fotografía, agarrar una vieja cámara y hacer 36 exposiciones me entretiene muchísimo.
Your experience of getting the 400ft roll down to 100ft and into the loader is very useful to me. Thanks. Your clearly a master in the changing bag (tell all the ladies).
Adjusting the histogram for each individual colour channel in Epson scan can help reduce noise and make colours smoother. This takes a fair bit of practice to get right, but for tricky films it does help a lot. It doesn't compare to Pakon scans, but they are usually usable for Instagram.
It's good to know that the 85B filter is only used in direct sunlight, I assumed that it has to be on the lens for tungsten film in general. Thanks for sharing your experiences and the video.
Hi Ed. Watching your videos has been the reason why I started using film. I also did some research on film photography process as a whole. From what I found, some people have the opinion that film Photography nowadays were taken for granted. Some people thinks that if you're using film you should know the whole process, including the darkroom printing process. What do you think of it? Would you like to have the experience of darkroom printing process? Or, have you ever print your photos using the darkroom printing process? Thanks, and keep making videos like this..
Yes, I have printed my pictures in the darkroom a few times, but I don't have one at home, so is not something I usually do. I think photography is an activity and you can set yourself your own boundaries of interest in the map of such activity. You don't need the whole cartography: if you only like taking pictures and don't care about printing or developing or fixing your camera, it's your choice. I happen to be interested in some areas of process, but it doesn't really "mean" anything. It doesn't make me more interested in photography, it just makes me more interested in the process. By the same token, I also sing and play music, but I don't know anything about building my own instruments or if I break my guitar, I have no idea how to fix it. My interest in the music is bounded with my creative goal in that medium, not the whole craft.
Wow, that is by far the most interesting answer i got when I ask people about this matter Hahaha I totally agree man! I think whatever the medium is, if you like what you're doing, just do it. Thanks for the reply! By the way, hello from Indonesia!
I'm very happy that you've decided to use the Pakon to fully unleash the capabilities of the films you use. I am pretty sure every subsequent video from now on will have amazing photos compositionally and with great colour correction. Please re-scan the images shot on the Xpan with the Cinestill 800T film as per my original comment in that video if you have time.
The crazy thing is, when I read your comment I had already bought the Pakon, but I wanted to use an XP machine to run the scanner, since the hard drive from my Macbook is too small and I'm really stupid regarding (among other things) computer software. So I needed to wait until my trip to Chile to get an XP computer and run the Pakon. Regarding the stills from that video, yes, I will rescan them and talk about it, BUT that will probably happen once I do a full review of the film (so I have a reason to talk about it and do it), so it might take a few months. I hope the wait is not a problem. Cheers!
Looking forward to the re-review :P Tried out Cinestill800 with my X-Pan recently, really great results from during twilight and afterwards when artificial lights start to dominate
Great review, awesome video. Love the honesty and the emotion with which every detail of the film is described. Makes me want to go and shoot some colour cinema film. I've only ever shot black and white (Eastman XX) because it's so easy for me to develop but I'm loving the look you've achieved with this film!
Hey Eduardo, could do an episode of you scanning your film using your Canon EOS M and a cheap vintage macro lens? Using your digital interchangeable camera with a macro lens is one of the best and cheapest ways to scan your film. Or so I've heard.
I already did a video about scanning the film with a basic kit lens of the EOS M: ruclips.net/video/obFXbdOIq4k/видео.html& It's not a macro lens (I won't buy one just for a comparison video), but you get the point. :)
"Weeena" Eduardo, te dije que te escribiría un comentario fue el loco del cine arte alameda el que llego primero, pedazo de show perrito tanto tiempo que los quería ver y que se haya dado la oportunidad fue fantástico para mi :)
Man, I wish I could have all my negs scanned on a pro scanner. I shoot mostly medium format and color is always a challenge. Especially with expired film when scans are off it's hard to tell was it film or was it scanner.
When you scanned with the flatbed, did you scan a row of pictures at once, or do you usually scan them individually? The scanner will adjust based on the exposure of the frame, and if you have more than one negative being scanned at a time, it will do it at an average exposure for them all. Where as when you scan them individually, you get a better scan for the frame as the scanner is only looking at one photo. it can make a massive difference doing them separate. Most people, including yourself probably know this anyway, but it's worth mentioning.
Que buena onda tu forma de plantearlo, ayuda mucho más que cuando las reviews van solo a mostrar los casos de éxito! un abrazo y gracias por tus videos!
Have you considered modern alternatives like Plustek Opticfilm 135? Pakon is hard to find, requires Win XP and problematic to fix if it breaks I guess.
Hi Ed, Just found your channel and absolutely love it. Really keen to try cinema based films. Can you let me know more details on how you scanned with the flatbed. Were you using the Epson supplied software to correct the colours, flipping the curves in photoshop or a third party package like Silver fast or Colourperfect?
I know this is a very late comment from when it was first posted but I've only started to get into film. I find your videos very informative and entertaining without much hoopla. Just simple and very helpful. And oh, "Hold still --stranger" ...or i'll SHOOT! XD
I know dedicated film scanners make for better quality...But I use a flatbed Canon CanoScan 9000F Mark II, and I really like the results I get from it.
So, the 400ft roll ... inside the canister the film is in a bag. Is it a black bag like sheet film? Or clear bag? And is it on a spindle or reel of some kind, or once the bag is open it all just comes unrolled like spaghetti everywhere?
Cuando en la lata dice 200T no es ASA o ISO 200 sino Índice de Exposición, que en foto es el equivalente a poner un paso más, es decir si es IE 200T será con ISO 400.
Buen dato, no tenía idea. De todos modos, luego de muchas pruebas, puedo decir que si la disparas a ISO 400 queda subexpuesta. El 200T hay que tirarlo a 100 o 200, y el 500T a 400.
@@edpavez tengo una lata de Visión 2 500T para cargarla, no he disparado con ella aún nunca, por lo que haré caso de tu experiencia. El dato que te doy lo he sacado de la web de Kodak, no por experiencia propia, me fío más de tus pruebas jajajaja, saludos.
Hi thank you for the video. It'd be really nice if you would make another video to share your experience in developing the V3 200T. For instance, how did you develop the film (if you did use C41 process), how did you remove the anti-halation layer of the motion picture film? If you did not use C41 process, where and how did you develop it? It'd be really helpful if you share that with us folks
hei Eduardo, thanks a lot for your kind reply and reference. I watch the other video you've suggested. Very well made and clearly explaining how you did that. Now I have another one more question: where did you buy that beautiful bottle of remjet removers (solution) ? cheers
Pakon scans will always look better than something that scans a flat negative (Pakons scan the neg on a curve). Using a DSLR to scan is actually a fairly lousy option, giving you worse quality than a flatbed.
Actually scanning flat in a raw file would be better than scanning on a curve, because flat means more information available so you can finished properly in post. I know for a fact is superior to a flatbed scanner.
Daniel Alonso sorry, when I say "flat," I mean that the negative is physically flat, and pakons bend the negatives across the scanner for edge-to-edge sharpness. "Scanning" with a DSLR is inferior in many ways, especially when software lets you scan in .tiff
Didn't you do a video about developing film using coffee grounds or something strange? Can you send me a link to it, so I can show my friend I'm not a liar? Please?
Si, ese video lo vi, fue el que me animó a comprar unos carretes de Vision3. Te preguntaba porque mucha gente dice que si lo haces en C-41 quedan mucho peor que en ECN-2, pero te quedaron estupendas.
hi there! what do you mean by "photoshop raw settings"? I scan on tiff with the Pakon PSI and edit the pictures on Lightroom, but it's more a white balance correction. what do you mean by "this effect"? you mean this colors? are you shooting this very same film?
EduardoPavezGoye Okay, i thought that you are doing something more than white balance correction. I am shooting with 500T but thought that should not be many differences but they are actually
Hola Ed!! Cuando descubrí que eras chileno quede pa la caga Jajajaja buenísima, adoro tu canal y todo lo que compartes acerca de film photography... ahora bien, tengo una duda, sabes dónde puedo revelar un Kodak visión 3 250D aquí en Santiago? Muchas gracias de antemano!!
Ya lo hice. De hecho, esta en los videos sugeridos de este mismo video. Revisa mi lista de "tutoriales y opiniones" y en el video "como tomar fotos con un film de pelicula" aparece todo el proceso.
I don't really like the look of the 250D, but your experience might be different. Also, I don't know how much it costs... in general, I think this is worth getting if you plan on shooting a lot and developing at home regularly.
You're comparing a rather cheap flatbed scanner with a much more expensive higher end Pakon scanner, of course there is going to be a large difference. I think a better comparison would have been a high end flatbed, like a v800 or 850 VS the Pakon.
this comment might be 5 years late but I'm obligated to say, cinefilms are very pushable from my personal experience, they can be comfortably push at least 2 stops, be it tungsten balanced or daylight balanced. cheers!
Buenas Eduardo, Thanks for the follow-up for Kodak Vision 3 photography. When I started to look for different Kodak film stocks, I found a couple of different 'reviews' by Kodak themselves. The tungsten film reacts differently in terms of highlight and shadow recovery depending on the stock used. I probably will try one of the 'D' stocks for daylight. I found this video very informative: ruclips.net/video/qCxr7YeD0C4/видео.html. Probably you seen it before. The Kodak website is also a good read for deciding which film stock works best. Keep on shooting :). Gracias y que te diviertes!
Hi! loved the video. I was wondering: would you sell me a couple of rolls? I need to make some pictures look old. Unfortunately, I don't have all that equipment, and it would be a big investment just to see if it works... If you'd consider selling me a couple of rolls, or maybe a trade (would you be interested in a print?), please let me know. Cheers! (PS great music btw!!)
Humberto Brito I can sell you a few rolls, but you need to develop them yourself at home and take the remjet out. You can't send these rolls to a lab. See my video about "taking pictures with movie film" for the whole picture.
Terrific! thanks so much! I just watched the video, and it seems relatively simple. (Also, I know a guy...) How shall we do this? Maybe I can send you a private message on Instagram to exchange emails? again, thanks a lot!
Finally, no one says these things online. they show you the edited result and boast at the film's quality without saying what the cons are.
one of the most hard working film utuber....salu
You also have to remember that film has different speeds under different lights. When you’re shooting Portra 400 in tungsten light it’s only 100 ASA. The same goes for tungsten film. The Vision3 200T is rated for 125 ASA in daylight. So you have to change the meter in your camera when you’re shooting in daylight (Rob Hardy rated it at a 100 ASA for Mission Impossible Fallout for overcast days). And when you’re using a 85 correction filter (which I still advice you to do) you’ll get an effective light sensitivity of 60 ASA.
The film doesn't have different speed under different lights - an 85 filter reduces exposure by 2/3 of a stop which is why you rate it at 125iso (closest meter setting) to account for having the 85 in front of the lens. Rob Hardy would have rated his film at 100iso to give himself an extra 1/3 (ish) of a stop over exposure. Portra film (a daylight film) requires an 80A filter (full blue) to correct the tungsten (warm white) light to daylight white which reduces the light hitting the film by 2 stops - which would mean setting your meter to 100iso.
Your videos make me soo tranquil. The music is really amazing and the content is really good.
Geeze! What a nerd! Glad I subscribed a while ago 0 disappointments since. Thanks for the knowledge I feel overwhelmed.
Hello,
I agree completely that the Epson flatbed is not the greatest, but one I thought I'd mention/ask is what your settings are in it for "Color control", which you can reach in Epson Scan by going to Configuration>>Color.
If you do that and uncheck the "Color Control" box (enabled by default) and choose "No Correction" instead, you will wind up with a much, much flatter scan, which should be a lot more RAW-looking, and easier to process. I would love to know how the Pakon compares to this setting!
I tried 500t recently thanks to your vision 3 videos, had it professionally developed and scanned, and I absolutely love it. So cinematic and great for night shooting. If it wasn't such a pain I'd shoot it more often.
Mann.. i don't know why but I really like your editing. It's simples and really good. The music... Everyting it's... Good!
Oh man those colours after correction are just divine
No sabía nada de esto y me entretuve caleta con toda la explicación. Todavía no logro comprender la magia de disparar análogo, pero cada vez que estoy desmotivado con la fotografía, agarrar una vieja cámara y hacer 36 exposiciones me entretiene muchísimo.
Your experience of getting the 400ft roll down to 100ft and into the loader is very useful to me. Thanks. Your clearly a master in the changing bag (tell all the ladies).
The photo of the guy smoking inside when you were speaking about shadows was really good
Adjusting the histogram for each individual colour channel in Epson scan can help reduce noise and make colours smoother. This takes a fair bit of practice to get right, but for tricky films it does help a lot. It doesn't compare to Pakon scans, but they are usually usable for Instagram.
It's good to know that the 85B filter is only used in direct sunlight, I assumed that it has to be on the lens for tungsten film in general. Thanks for sharing your experiences and the video.
Hi Ed.
Watching your videos has been the reason why I started using film. I also did some research on film photography process as a whole. From what I found, some people have the opinion that film Photography nowadays were taken for granted. Some people thinks that if you're using film you should know the whole process, including the darkroom printing process.
What do you think of it? Would you like to have the experience of darkroom printing process? Or, have you ever print your photos using the darkroom printing process?
Thanks, and keep making videos like this..
Yes, I have printed my pictures in the darkroom a few times, but I don't have one at home, so is not something I usually do.
I think photography is an activity and you can set yourself your own boundaries of interest in the map of such activity. You don't need the whole cartography: if you only like taking pictures and don't care about printing or developing or fixing your camera, it's your choice. I happen to be interested in some areas of process, but it doesn't really "mean" anything. It doesn't make me more interested in photography, it just makes me more interested in the process.
By the same token, I also sing and play music, but I don't know anything about building my own instruments or if I break my guitar, I have no idea how to fix it. My interest in the music is bounded with my creative goal in that medium, not the whole craft.
Wow, that is by far the most interesting answer i got when I ask people about this matter Hahaha
I totally agree man! I think whatever the medium is, if you like what you're doing, just do it.
Thanks for the reply! By the way, hello from Indonesia!
That's Why its important to test TEST TEST!!! I learned that in Zone system class. But this is a bomb ass photography Channel!!
totally off topic but the music in your videos reminds me of Blues Clues and the nostalgia of it is making want to shoot film again. Great work!
As always, a great vídeo packed with amazing information!! Gracias Eduardo!! Un saludo desde Portugal!! :)
I'm very happy that you've decided to use the Pakon to fully unleash the capabilities of the films you use. I am pretty sure every subsequent video from now on will have amazing photos compositionally and with great colour correction. Please re-scan the images shot on the Xpan with the Cinestill 800T film as per my original comment in that video if you have time.
The crazy thing is, when I read your comment I had already bought the Pakon, but I wanted to use an XP machine to run the scanner, since the hard drive from my Macbook is too small and I'm really stupid regarding (among other things) computer software. So I needed to wait until my trip to Chile to get an XP computer and run the Pakon.
Regarding the stills from that video, yes, I will rescan them and talk about it, BUT that will probably happen once I do a full review of the film (so I have a reason to talk about it and do it), so it might take a few months. I hope the wait is not a problem.
Cheers!
EduardoPavezGoye no problem. Will gladly wait for it.
Looking forward to the re-review :P
Tried out Cinestill800 with my X-Pan recently, really great results from during twilight and afterwards when artificial lights start to dominate
I really dig this review (and the rest of your videos). I'm really looking forward to your impression of 500T.
Love the video. I decided to buy a roll next week.
Great review, awesome video. Love the honesty and the emotion with which every detail of the film is described. Makes me want to go and shoot some colour cinema film. I've only ever shot black and white (Eastman XX) because it's so easy for me to develop but I'm loving the look you've achieved with this film!
Hey Eduardo, could do an episode of you scanning your film using your Canon EOS M and a cheap vintage macro lens?
Using your digital interchangeable camera with a macro lens is one of the best and cheapest ways to scan your film. Or so I've heard.
I already did a video about scanning the film with a basic kit lens of the EOS M: ruclips.net/video/obFXbdOIq4k/видео.html&
It's not a macro lens (I won't buy one just for a comparison video), but you get the point. :)
Oh yeah I completely forgot about that.
What's your opinion on the matter though? Did you find "scanning" film with your camera good enough?
"Weeena" Eduardo, te dije que te escribiría un comentario fue el loco del cine arte alameda el que llego primero, pedazo de show perrito tanto tiempo que los quería ver y que se haya dado la oportunidad fue fantástico para mi :)
heey, buena! que bueno que lo pasaste bien. gracias por el apoyo. un gusto conocerte. :)
el gusto fue mio compadre, muy buenos los vídeos que subes en esta cuenta,. todo el support pa` ti perro !
Man, I wish I could have all my negs scanned on a pro scanner. I shoot mostly medium format and color is always a challenge. Especially with expired film when scans are off it's hard to tell was it film or was it scanner.
When you scanned with the flatbed, did you scan a row of pictures at once, or do you usually scan them individually? The scanner will adjust based on the exposure of the frame, and if you have more than one negative being scanned at a time, it will do it at an average exposure for them all. Where as when you scan them individually, you get a better scan for the frame as the scanner is only looking at one photo. it can make a massive difference doing them separate. Most people, including yourself probably know this anyway, but it's worth mentioning.
I scanned picture by picture, of course.
I absolutely loved everything about this video!
Que buena onda tu forma de plantearlo, ayuda mucho más que cuando las reviews van solo a mostrar los casos de éxito!
un abrazo y gracias por tus videos!
I made the mistake on clicking on this video while broke... now I have this really strong urge to pick up this film. ;[ Awesome review, though!
te conocí hoy y ya te amo
Thank you.Could you show some details about the scanner?
Great review! Do you have’s website that you recommend to get this film from?
Have you considered modern alternatives like Plustek Opticfilm 135? Pakon is hard to find, requires Win XP and problematic to fix if it breaks I guess.
Hi Ed, Just found your channel and absolutely love it. Really keen to try cinema based films. Can you let me know more details on how you scanned with the flatbed. Were you using the Epson supplied software to correct the colours, flipping the curves in photoshop or a third party package like Silver fast or Colourperfect?
You could shoot it at 125 asa so you don’t have to factor in the f-stop change, doesn’t help the shutter speed though
You're doing a good job convincing me to do this. But if I do I'll probably want to get good at c41 first, and I'd probably get 500t
also could you do a video on developing vision 3
where did you buy the Pakon from? It is so hard to find one with reasonable price...
I know this is a very late comment from when it was first posted but I've only started to get into film. I find your videos very informative and entertaining without much hoopla. Just simple and very helpful. And oh, "Hold still --stranger" ...or i'll SHOOT! XD
I know dedicated film scanners make for better quality...But I use a flatbed Canon CanoScan 9000F Mark II, and I really like the results I get from it.
When are you going to try to shoot 50D :D would love to see that!!
So, the 400ft roll ... inside the canister the film is in a bag. Is it a black bag like sheet film? Or clear bag? And is it on a spindle or reel of some kind, or once the bag is open it all just comes unrolled like spaghetti everywhere?
It’s exactly the same as all 100ft film cans, but bigger.
@@edpavez Never bought one of those either, but it would represent a lower risk apparently. Thanks Ed.
Cuando en la lata dice 200T no es ASA o ISO 200 sino Índice de Exposición, que en foto es el equivalente a poner un paso más, es decir si es IE 200T será con ISO 400.
Buen dato, no tenía idea. De todos modos, luego de muchas pruebas, puedo decir que si la disparas a ISO 400 queda subexpuesta. El 200T hay que tirarlo a 100 o 200, y el 500T a 400.
@@edpavez tengo una lata de Visión 2 500T para cargarla, no he disparado con ella aún nunca, por lo que haré caso de tu experiencia. El dato que te doy lo he sacado de la web de Kodak, no por experiencia propia, me fío más de tus pruebas jajajaja, saludos.
Try Aerocolor IV with ECN-2
Hi thank you for the video.
It'd be really nice if you would make another video to share your experience in developing the V3 200T. For instance, how did you develop the film (if you did use C41 process), how did you remove the anti-halation layer of the motion picture film?
If you did not use C41 process, where and how did you develop it? It'd be really helpful if you share that with us folks
Patrick Un well, I already did that. Look in my videos for one called "How to shoot pictures with movie film". :)
hei Eduardo, thanks a lot for your kind reply and reference. I watch the other video you've suggested. Very well made and clearly explaining how you did that.
Now I have another one more question: where did you buy that beautiful bottle of remjet removers (solution) ? cheers
Patrick Un I got the bottle on ebay. I searched for "remjet remover".
when loading the film, how do you know what side the remjet is on (so you don't end up exposing the remjet instead of the emulsion when you shoot)
Thank a lot! I would have a question, although it is not quite on topic: was the film hand checked at the airport or went through x-ray machine?
Cosmin Munteanu well, I have discovered that in the UK they make all negatives go through x-ray, BUT I have also found it doesn't affect the films.
What is the easiest way to buy movie film? I've been looking at Vision3 250D, but it seems difficult to come by.
I'm curious about this as well.
in the UK, I buy my films onilne in "frame24".
Thank you! Seems like it's cheaper to buy from there and pay shipping than anywhere here in the U.S.
Matthew Seal go to the Kodak website they have all the info you need
late comment!! What do you think of the plustek scanners?
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make a video on how to correct tungsten film to daylight
Buenísima review, gracias!
i wonder if a scan with a dslr is better than a scan with the pakon. That would be an awesome video.
sadly, I don't have a DSLR nor a macro lens, so that video will have to wait until I can get my hands on one...!
And i'll watch the video as i do with all your videos. keep up the good work.
Pakon scans will always look better than something that scans a flat negative (Pakons scan the neg on a curve). Using a DSLR to scan is actually a fairly lousy option, giving you worse quality than a flatbed.
Actually scanning flat in a raw file would be better than scanning on a curve, because flat means more information available so you can finished properly in post. I know for a fact is superior to a flatbed scanner.
Daniel Alonso sorry, when I say "flat," I mean that the negative is physically flat, and pakons bend the negatives across the scanner for edge-to-edge sharpness. "Scanning" with a DSLR is inferior in many ways, especially when software lets you scan in .tiff
out of curiosity what do you use for a flatbed scanner
tienes que hacer un Review del Pakon después.
Welp, I just bought a mint Fuji TX-1... Thanks for the push over the edge haha.
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaa que bacán todooooooo te admiro mucho ed
got it on ebay 400feets for 60gbp. is it good deal ?
very respectable project
Can I purchase "respooled" kodak vision3 film from you!?!?!?!
Didn't you do a video about developing film using coffee grounds or something strange? Can you send me a link to it, so I can show my friend I'm not a liar? Please?
do you do remjet removal before you develop the film?
Did you have any problem with the rimjet? Its easy to remove from the film but i think my chemistry was too hot and totally stained the reels.
no, no problems at all. in fact, the C-41 chemicals are so abrasive they leave my reels pretty clean afterwards. haha
really good in depth video :)
Did you try Cine Still 50D yet?
Gran video Eduardo, me gustaría saber si los revelaste todos con el C-41 quitándole el remjet o probaste alguno con el ECN-2?
les quité el remjet yo mismo. enseño como hacerlo en mi video sobre "how to take pictures with movie film". :)
Si, ese video lo vi, fue el que me animó a comprar unos carretes de Vision3. Te preguntaba porque mucha gente dice que si lo haces en C-41 quedan mucho peor que en ECN-2, pero te quedaron estupendas.
ah, claro. sólo lo he hecho en C-41, así que no podría opinar en una comparativa con el ECN-2. pero me gusta como queda, la verdad!
+EduardoPavezGoye Could you show us your photoshop raw settings. I love this red oldschool color, have pakon, but can't make this effect!!
hi there! what do you mean by "photoshop raw settings"? I scan on tiff with the Pakon PSI and edit the pictures on Lightroom, but it's more a white balance correction. what do you mean by "this effect"? you mean this colors? are you shooting this very same film?
EduardoPavezGoye Okay, i thought that you are doing something more than white balance correction. I am shooting with 500T but thought that should not be many differences but they are actually
hola.. me gustan tus vídeos.. has uno con la yashica electro 35 porfa
Would you not look into cinestill?
Hola Ed!! Cuando descubrí que eras chileno quede pa la caga Jajajaja buenísima, adoro tu canal y todo lo que compartes acerca de film photography... ahora bien, tengo una duda, sabes dónde puedo revelar un Kodak visión 3 250D aquí en Santiago? Muchas gracias de antemano!!
Tienes que revelarlo en casa. No se puede enviar a ningún laboratorio.
Puedes, un día de estos, hacer un vídeo mostrando como revelarlo? Jajajaa gracias :)
Ya lo hice. De hecho, esta en los videos sugeridos de este mismo video. Revisa mi lista de "tutoriales y opiniones" y en el video "como tomar fotos con un film de pelicula" aparece todo el proceso.
Do you think it's still worth it? I'm considering getting a can of 250D and shoot it.
I don't really like the look of the 250D, but your experience might be different. Also, I don't know how much it costs... in general, I think this is worth getting if you plan on shooting a lot and developing at home regularly.
@@edpavez Good to know. Did you process the 250D in C41 or ECN-2?
You're comparing a rather cheap flatbed scanner with a much more expensive higher end Pakon scanner, of course there is going to be a large difference. I think a better comparison would have been a high end flatbed, like a v800 or 850 VS the Pakon.
notinuse yeah, I don’t have those scanners.
Thank you so much for this video!
Oh yeah don't for your scans will be highly gradable. Show us what they look like Color corrected and graded !!!
Isn't the Pakon like 900 usd nowadays? :-----(
Great vid!
Eduardo ya quisiera poner la mitad de pasión que tu le pones en la fotografía...
Adelante te seguimos desde Ecuador
This film can also go into a Bolex right?
You mean a Bolex 16mm or 8mm? No. This is 35mm.
I realised that after I watched the video, silly me. I wonder what if your results would be the same in 16mm format I have seen some mixed results.
@@WilliamDuckett there are mini photo cameras that shoot 16mm but the results are not really good. It's smaller than a half-frame image on 35mm!
this comment might be 5 years late but I'm obligated to say, cinefilms are very pushable from my personal experience, they can be comfortably push at least 2 stops, be it tungsten balanced or daylight balanced. cheers!
no remjet layer on 200T?
Alex sure there is. I just talked about it in great lenght in my video about "shooting pictures with movie films". ;)
are you using windows XP to run the hardware?
Steven Lawrence yes! A friend gave me his old netbook with XP. :)
EduardoPavezGoye you have good friends.
dope content, thanks.
try 250D
Buenas Eduardo,
Thanks for the follow-up for Kodak Vision 3 photography. When I started to look for different Kodak film stocks, I found a couple of different 'reviews' by Kodak themselves. The tungsten film reacts differently in terms of highlight and shadow recovery depending on the stock used. I probably will try one of the 'D' stocks for daylight. I found this video very informative: ruclips.net/video/qCxr7YeD0C4/видео.html. Probably you seen it before. The Kodak website is also a good read for deciding which film stock works best. Keep on shooting :). Gracias y que te diviertes!
Great
You can get clearance Kodak Vision3 film in different ISOs and White Balances at www.frame24ltd.co.uk
Hi! loved the video. I was wondering: would you sell me a couple of rolls? I need to make some pictures look old. Unfortunately, I don't have all that equipment, and it would be a big investment just to see if it works... If you'd consider selling me a couple of rolls, or maybe a trade (would you be interested in a print?), please let me know. Cheers! (PS great music btw!!)
Humberto Brito I can sell you a few rolls, but you need to develop them yourself at home and take the remjet out. You can't send these rolls to a lab. See my video about "taking pictures with movie film" for the whole picture.
Terrific! thanks so much! I just watched the video, and it seems relatively simple. (Also, I know a guy...) How shall we do this? Maybe I can send you a private message on Instagram to exchange emails? again, thanks a lot!
Humberto Brito sure! just write me on IG. :)