Another great video brother, love your honesty and the fact that you go through the whole issue and share it with us, my respects, that says a lot about your person! Thank you so much! You're my #1 source! One question, What brand/cable would you recommend?
Oh yeah BROTHER! Thank you so much BROTHER for implying to us to buy power cables with ferrite rings which have nothing to do with power but interference! But thank you BROTHER! Thank you for your wannabe influencer professionalism! BROTHER! BRO! BRUH!
As someone who builds/solders his own D-Tap cables this doesn’t make any sense. It sounds more like an issue with the monitor and NOT an issue with the power cable (unless somehow the D-Tap cable was plugged in backwards and fried the device from reverse polarity). A ferrite core can be useful on data cables (like HDMI) because it helps get rid of interference. However with power cables with a wide voltage variance, like D-Tap (11-16V), you probably won’t notice a difference. We definitely need more info
agreed. the only difference between those two D tap cables shown is the voltage regulator. I would have the monitor checked out. Definitely not bullet proof logic to find the problem...
@@danielwylie-eggert2041 Why would someone power his/her camera through the monitor anyways? A fkcing RUclips influencer would though! Wannabe professionals... Like who the F does that? Get a fucking dtap splitter and get your power almost directly through the Vmount battery...
@@masqueradr why would you assume that he was powering the camera through the monitor? I did not get that impression at all tbh? Others have mentioned that it could basically be a ground loop when powering the monitor and camera from the same battery, that the HDMI cable creates an extra path for the electricity. Seems plausible, and much more likely than just a bad D-tap cable causing it.
A ferrite-core hardly does anything and could even be 'harmfull' on a HDMI-cable. HDMI is about as high-frequency technique as one can get in AV-equipment (I exclude the extreme speeds of HD-SDI on that matter...) and the high-frequency block-signals running through those cables are exactly the type of signals ferrite-cores usually supress. As the cable itself is already shielded, a ferrite-clamp will provide hardly any extra supression (if at all) They work wonders on power cables as they 'short' high-frequency noise that is usually unwanted on them (It's basically a high-frequency transformer with just one winding, and it's shorted as well) I make my D-tap cables myself and this indeed does not make any sense at all.
I rather suspect there are a few other factors besides a cheap cable. When you power your camera and your monitor from the same supply, then the camera current working with the camera cable resistance causes the camera's internal ground to rise above that of the negative terminal of the battery. The same thing happens with the monitor's internal ground but because it draws a different current through a different cable, the voltage rise is different. Therefore there is a voltage difference in the internal grounds of the camera and monitor and when you connect the HDMI cable the signals are at different levels. I don't know enough about the interfaces to tell you exactly what the vulnerable component is. But I plan to avoid this issue by powering the monitor from its own battery.
I agree, to my opinion , when you use one battery with Y-cable, first power, camera and monitor, then HDMI cable. If you first power camera,then HDMI cable and if then you power monitor AND accidently, you connect "+" before "-" due to bad connector etc... the ground of the HDMI has to transfer the high current and will burn. The ferrite will not stop this... The same will happen when you remove power cables, here first remove HDMI cable.... To my opinion, a switch on the plus side of the battery could 'prevent' accidents... Switch it on when only when the cable work is done, switch it off before you remove cables... But better safe than sorry, use two batteries ;-)
The currents are by far not big enough to cause voltage-drops of any concern. I think it's either a ground-loop problem that breaks the input or output stage on the HDMI-connections than anything else. I've powered both my camera and monitor from the same battery (camera via it's mounted-by-design V-mount plate, monitor via D-tap output on the camera) and never had any issues with my HDMI-ports. Even went hotplugging them on purpose: no problem at all.
that's funny! I bought this HEDBOX Unix-BM - V-Mount yesterday after reading your comment, I Suppose is the same principle, 1 output to Blackmagic camera with Breakaway DC (which I think means it won't burn my camera as it has a fuse inside)
Also keep in mind, when using a BMPCC that there is a ground looping issue. If you use your monitor plugged in to the same V-mount as the camera it can short out the HDMI as well.
not too much to learn from this video. the expensive cables highlighted in the video is the same as the below version only it has a ferrite ring. you can buy ferrite rings in different sizes that you clip around any desired cabling. the ferrite ring is supposed to reduce interference and so serves things like recording and performance cables best rather than monitoring. i dont see from a technical perspective how the lead itself can can precipitate a higher or lower voltage. id be interested to see the engineers notes.
What did you expect? A tryhard RUclips-Influencer thinking he knows shit (he literally tought that ferrit ring was some kind of electric safety or something). These influencers are disgusting and 95% of the time don't know what they are talking about.
In order to send more voltage or power you will need a Voltage Booster device that can convert 5v to 35v or more... those D-TAP wires are just wires! in the worse scenario your cheap D-TAP Wire can start getting warm because the coper inside is very thin to handle the voltage consumption. I will recommend you to power the cameras without using the out DC port from the monitor. BTW The little cylinder in one of your D-TAP wires is just ferrite to reduce interference or white noise. I hope this explanation is useful to you.
Hi man! The exact thing happened to me last December 2018 and within a week I had a brand-new camera back from Blackmagic. The Blackmagic customer service was great! Better use the higher end HDMI-Dtap cables!
First - power your camera, attach HDMI/SDI cable to the monitor, then Second - powering the monitor is the last step. When you switch off, the order is 1.Moniitor -Off, 2,camera- off. Its not because of the cheap or expensive cables.
Thank you for that, I have been following this protocol of power procedures and everything still works fine. Because I have the cheap Amazon cable. Cheers
That actually is a good way to fry an HDMI input if it is susceptible to hot-plugging damage. Power down EVERYTHING (if your camera or monitor is connected to mains power, it could be a good idea to not only power it down, but also disconnect it from its mains supply), than connect your HDMI cable and turn on your equipment (order doesn't matter). SDI is by far not as bad as HDMI, as you can't connect a BNC cable without the ground contact mating first and it could very well be the output is galvanically isolated as well (hey, it's a pro connection, where HDMI is a consumer connection, pro's don't want to put up with strange problems because of ground loops or interference onto a god knows how long SDI-cable)
In my opinon everyone should use a "star ground" for their rigs to be safe. Multi-path is probably what caused this issue, the ground in the HDMI had better potential to the V mount.
Thankyou very much for share your experience!!! You saved my BMP6KPRO!!! This kind of things we usually don't give the attention that it needs and we make mistakes that could be expensive.
A piece of information for whoever own the pocket 4K/6k. The cheap cable, connecting the camera and the monitor on the same vmount battery/plate, or connect the camera and the monitor on the AC power, all of this option will case the issue of frying your HDMI port and could even fry your monitor.
Dude this is becoming of increasing concern. There are reports of more and more bogus products being sold on Amazon. Even things that are supposed to be brand name like some Sandisk cards that are bootleg knockoffs. I'm not saying stop shopping at Amazon but I'm saying we all need to learn how to spot a fake or inferior product and send that crap right back lol! Everything from cables to batteries to memory cards. I too am starting to only buy certain integral pieces from big-name stores. Thanks for this informative video!
All companies that sell high end products for film-related use MUST have fast support! It’s crazy to think that you waited 1/4 of a year to get your Sony back!!
I have heard a different explanation for this phenomenon. I was told if you power your camera and your monitor from the same power source it can create a power loop that will fry the HDMI port in the camera. I don’t know if this is true but on all of my cameras I have followed this religiously and I have never had a problem. I have been shooting video professionally for 23 years, okay I have only been using external monitor/recorders for the last 15 years, but I have four cameras. I shoot multicam live theatre, concerts and dance shows. I have also shot two camera shoots for dance competitions that sometimes require me to shoot twelve hours continuously. I have three Ninja Vs which for the past two years have been powered by V mount batteries.
Black Magic sounds good over and over. The only bad I hear is that the pocket cinema models are too advanced and needs more accessories to complement it. So naturally those are from amateurs, not professionals. I'm a noob, with my first camera, an 80d. So I'm no where near a BM 4k, but having a company like BM to step up the game in hardware and customer services effects us all. Thanks for your review. I just found you yesterday and am subbed!!
Have you got any measures for that wrong cable output for consideration? I've just measured 2 of my vlock batteries (with and without the "bad" titled cable) and both of their outputs falls between the advertised needs of my bmpcc 4k. The advertised voltages are between 10-20 volts. I barely think that any v-lock batteries are doing more than 20v's. I think the problem can caused by lover voltages instead of over volts, and if it's the case then it's not a cable it is a battery issue instead!
Omg Omg Omg Thank you! I went through the exact same thing with my Sony A6500. I fried it twice using a V-Mount batter back and cheap d-tap cable but has no idea why until I watched your video. 4 weeks later and Sony still has my camera even though I turned down the repair for $483. For some reason that haven’t sent it back to me yet. So, what’s a better D-Tap battery cable? I bought mine off of Amazon. Thanks
Good to know about the Dtap cable, would love to know more in depth as to a more in-depth explication tto this cause, Thanks for the warning though probably saved my camera HDMI out.
Great video. What do you think about the 6Ks? The work flow, storage challenges and power consumption are tough enough on the 4K, but 6K? Is it really worth it given the added headache?
Nice one dude. Was just looking for other BMPCC4k shooters and found your channel. Stay tuned and keep up the good work. Love this camera! New follower
Were you running the dtap to a dummy battery or to the DC power input on the side? I presume you were using a dummy battery because those need to regulated Dow to 7.4v but the cam though DC can accept 12v to 20v.
"Too much electricity" is not a great way to describe it. I suspect you mean "too high a voltage". Personally I would always measure the voltage before plugging in a new cable arrangement and after checking that the camera can accept that voltage. You said you were plugging the D-Tap into a dummy battery, well the real LP-E6 battery has a nominal output voltage of 7.4volts, so somewhere in between you would need a voltage regulator to reduce the voltage from the D-TAP. A fully charged LP-E6 will only ever get up to 8.4V under no load (i.e. open circuit) conditions, so make sure your dummy one is regulating to below that voltage. As a regular LP-E6 discharges its voltage will drop to around 6volts before the camera stops because of low voltage. I would aim to regulate to 7.4volts at the output terminals of the dummy battery and confirm that that is the case before plugging the dummy battery into your BMPCC4K.
This just happen to my BM6K which was connected via HDMI to my atomos and both powered by the same V-mount battery. Cheap D-taps but interesting how after almost a year of this same setup that it just happed out of the blue. The atomos works except for the HDMI input, that doesn't work at all which means it's unusable. Can you confirm if my scenario is possibly the same cause?
I fried a monitor using direct D-Tap current - learned my lesson - I only use USB-C PD connections now (my V-Mount batteries have several of these PD USB-C outputs now - and I have the D-Tap to USB-C PD Kondor Blue cable) - PD handles all of the voltage/amperage handshakes to prevent these problems. I power my FX 30 and monitor (Feelworld) directly off the USB-C PD output of my V-Mount batteries this way
I'm torn between the video above and the comments below. People in the comments say the cable is most likely not the issue however in the video you say this has happened to 2 other cameras and when you bought a better cable it no longer happened... I just bought a Core SWX Powerbase EDGE but its a 14 volt battery that came with a cable for the BLPCC 6k but from what I understand you can harm the circuits in the camera with any voltage over 10v. The battery puts out 14v so... Am I okay? The battery states it is made for the BLMPCC 6k
Interesting, I just fried my HDMI output on my bmpcc. I can't send it in right now because I have two shoots coming up, will suck without my monitor but they are indoors at least.. I've been using it for a few years with the same d taps. I honestly don't remember where I got them (likely b&h) or if they were cheap (probably).
So either BM hasn't got their protection on the HDMI-connection up to standards (but hey... it still is a consumer connection... pro's use SDI) or it really is up to the cable (which I doubt, but on the other hand bad cables can cause strange things to happen if the voltage sags too much, switch mode converters are a pain as they will just draw more current as the input voltage drops, doing so to keep their output up to spec). I've tried many setups (JVC GY-HM100, HM250, HM850 and a Blackmagic Video Assist) and started hotplugging the thing via HDMI on purpose. In case of the JVC GY-HM100, it was powered by mains supply, in case of the HM250, it was powered via a 9-36 Vin to 12Vout (ISOLATED!) DC/DC converter by Murata if I'm not mistaken which in turn was fed by a V-mount battery (tried the mains supply as well), the HM850 was powered via a V-mount battery, directly powering the camera via the V-mount plate ánd monitor via D-tap, with the HDMI out connected to the monitor. As said: I started hotplugging on purpose on all occasions, but never did one output (or the input on the Video Assist) fail me once.
Of course ,though what has to be kept in mind is that you have a channel...You have a channel...it's like a person owning a magazine....and you can say what you like - knowing that i'm sure if they were even a bit on the ball they would have known to take care of you...just good business sense. But how is the service flow for the average person?
Everyone wants to save a buck (me iincluded). This video is a great example of paying more to protect your equipment. Do it! It's worth it, this video proves that!
Had the exact same problem with my pocket when I got it early in the year. I had a cheap v mount plate and it fried the HDMI port. BM got it back to me fixed for free in under a week. Black magic is changing the industry.
Thank you for this video. I fried my Sony A6500 and was out of business. Can you tell us what Dtap battery cable you use that isn’t a cheap one? I couldn’t tell from the pic in the vid and didn’t see it in the description. Thanks
Do you have or can you make a video for black magic4k tutorial on filming a music video please. I am so stuck and really don't get the settings for filming.
Yes thank you for the video I just got me a bmpcc4k then they dropped the 6k but anyway how can you tell if the sensor on the 4K is defective? Because my footage is not clean and with lines like a old tv.
D-tap is unfortunately a really bad design, no matter if you buy a cheap or expensive one. If pressed hard, which I know of a number of cases, you can put it in up side down pressing the halves apart just a bit resulting in reversed polarization and something electronic being fried.
@@FlashFilmAcademy I was recommended the Twisted Veins brand a while back. They're high quality HDMI cables that I've used with my GH5 and P4K to great effect.
I had a feeling it was related to D-Tap, I’ve heard and read so many horror stories and have seen how easy it is to mess things up or get some sort of “gotcha” moment and ruin gear, it’s a wonder anybody uses it! But I understand why it’s there and why people use it but it’s not something I would want to mess around with.
It's not related to D-tap. This guy probably doesn't know shit what he's talking about. I use D-tap all the time and it powers both my camera (JVC GY-HM850) and my monitor (Video Assist by Blackmagic). From the D-tap outlet, there's a straight-through connection to the DC-jack on the Video Assist. Even went hotplugging the HDMI and power connection on purpose, but just couldn't get any issue to arise. Same with my other camera (JVC GY-HM200): with the camera powered by a non-isolated converter (the DC-jack takes 12 Volt only as far as I know by now) and supplying power to a monitor as well, it doesn't matter what I do, it just won't break anything. I'm now working on getting a decent converter to power my mic-receiver as well, as I don't want to take even more batteries (AA's) with me while I'm walking around with a power-house on my shoulder (that it automatically turns on when fed via USB-micro (which I consider the absolute worst connection for (semi-)professional AV-stuff) is a nice extra) Though I have not been able to break anything, I prefer coldplugging. No battery on the camera, then connect everything, then place the battery.
WTF. I use a VMount and have a DIY cable. Its working fine. I have the DTap connected directly to the BMPCC4K and a 12V out to my monitor. It's working absolutely fine. Should work on future too because everyone is getting the power is needed right?!
Mine just crapped out on me recently, I used the included power cable to D-Tap for my Portkeys BM5.. Really a bummer on Portkeys part if this is the reason it doesn't work.
My man it might not be an issue of the cheap or expensive cables. You might be maxing out the input range which is frying out your circuits. Same would happen if you power a bmpcc 4k with a v-mount through a dummy battery with a 6-10V range instead of the DC in which has a more suitable 12-20 range. Read manual carefully and adhere to the range that's provided. The 'expensive' cable that you showed an image of, has that 'lil thing' in the middle which is bringing it down from the v-mounts 14.2V output to a 6.8V output. But if it fails, you'll smoke up the camera again. Buy a v-mount plate with multiple outputs having multiple options.
Did you try to power up both (camera and recorder) with a single power bank PD? What about hot swapping power banks? I want to power up canon r5 (15W) and ninja V+ (22W) with 2 power banks that can handle 37 W each, for long recordings!!! I want to create a Y cable for 2 powerbanks (in the same time) and one end that deliver power to the rig (here with another split, one for dummy and one for ninja). If any power Bank have at least 37W I can record without stop, just replace from time to time the power banks.
I don’t see why everyone is busting your chops on the exposure. MAYBE it’s a half a stop under. But the main difference between your Academy video and this mainly looks like a LUT difference or gamma difference. I personally prefer the more muted look of the main video. Maybe having the light a little less flat and a hair light to give you some separation. But I think your skin tones look more natural in the main video. People be nitpicking wayyyy too much.
Lol right bro! it's amazing how so many are critics all of a sudden and if you don't change they feel like you can't take constructive criticism. Maybe this is my style 🤷🏾♂️. My goal was never a high-key look
Keep doing you. Our marketing group loves your content. Your video on the 6k telling everyone their favorite camera was dead had us rolling. Straight facts and good knowledge found here.
I did the same to my blackmagic micro, I no longer power any of my cameras from a Dtap, I have a new set of batteries that rum the same or longer than the v mount's, can run two devises at the same time and are super light, not to mention they are only $35.00 a piece, I have been using them for two years with no failures or voltage issues, by the way Blackmagic support as always been good with me but that particular camera was purchased from Adorama with the VIP 360, they replaced the camera with a new one no questions asked, there is a company out of Long Island that makes custom voltage regulated cables specific for whatever devise you are using.
@@mauricalv1 They are from Talentcell the model number is YB1206000 12V 6000mAh I run my Blackmagic video assist monitor and the camera or whatever else I need it for, comes with a splitter cable, I can email you a picture of them
Cable doesn't create any " extra " or " excessive " electricity! Bad connectors at each end could, possibly create intermittent " short " that could mangle the internal boards at each end but that's that. Most possibly there is something wrong with your monitor's out port board regulators that's powering the camera. You should check it out before frying another camera. BTW, as a pro content producer you should know that the jingle on your intro-title is way too loud
Another great video brother, love your honesty and the fact that you go through the whole issue and share it with us, my respects, that says a lot about your person! Thank you so much! You're my #1 source! One question, What brand/cable would you recommend?
What funny is I never looked at name brands for reviews before this. I would say anything from B&H over something cheap on Amazon
@@FlashFilmAcademy Makes sense brother, I usually buy from B & H when it comes to gear. Thanks!
@@FlashFilmAcademy A lot the cheap cables and accessories that may fit BMPK4 and many other cameras, tend to flash to Amazon unfortunately.
Oh yeah BROTHER! Thank you so much BROTHER for implying to us to buy power cables with ferrite rings which have nothing to do with power but interference! But thank you BROTHER! Thank you for your wannabe influencer professionalism! BROTHER! BRO! BRUH!
I agree!
Answering your question, I think Lanparte is one of the best brands. You can find their D-Tap cables made for Blackmagic Pocket.
As someone who builds/solders his own D-Tap cables this doesn’t make any sense. It sounds more like an issue with the monitor and NOT an issue with the power cable (unless somehow the D-Tap cable was plugged in backwards and fried the device from reverse polarity). A ferrite core can be useful on data cables (like HDMI) because it helps get rid of interference. However with power cables with a wide voltage variance, like D-Tap (11-16V), you probably won’t notice a difference. We definitely need more info
agreed. the only difference between those two D tap cables shown is the voltage regulator. I would have the monitor checked out. Definitely not bullet proof logic to find the problem...
@@danielwylie-eggert2041 Why would someone power his/her camera through the monitor anyways? A fkcing RUclips influencer would though! Wannabe professionals... Like who the F does that? Get a fucking dtap splitter and get your power almost directly through the Vmount battery...
@@masqueradr why would you assume that he was powering the camera through the monitor? I did not get that impression at all tbh?
Others have mentioned that it could basically be a ground loop when powering the monitor and camera from the same battery, that the HDMI cable creates an extra path for the electricity.
Seems plausible, and much more likely than just a bad D-tap cable causing it.
@@masqueradr perhaps someone on a budget. Powering through your monitor can be a serious cost saver until you fry something haha
A ferrite-core hardly does anything and could even be 'harmfull' on a HDMI-cable. HDMI is about as high-frequency technique as one can get in AV-equipment (I exclude the extreme speeds of HD-SDI on that matter...) and the high-frequency block-signals running through those cables are exactly the type of signals ferrite-cores usually supress. As the cable itself is already shielded, a ferrite-clamp will provide hardly any extra supression (if at all)
They work wonders on power cables as they 'short' high-frequency noise that is usually unwanted on them (It's basically a high-frequency transformer with just one winding, and it's shorted as well)
I make my D-tap cables myself and this indeed does not make any sense at all.
I rather suspect there are a few other factors besides a cheap cable. When you power your camera and your monitor from the same supply, then the camera current working with the camera cable resistance causes the camera's internal ground to rise above that of the negative terminal of the battery. The same thing happens with the monitor's internal ground but because it draws a different current through a different cable, the voltage rise is different. Therefore there is a voltage difference in the internal grounds of the camera and monitor and when you connect the HDMI cable the signals are at different levels. I don't know enough about the interfaces to tell you exactly what the vulnerable component is. But I plan to avoid this issue by powering the monitor from its own battery.
I agree, to my opinion , when you use one battery with Y-cable, first power, camera and monitor, then HDMI cable. If you first power camera,then HDMI cable and if then you power monitor AND accidently, you connect "+" before "-" due to bad connector etc... the ground of the HDMI has to transfer the high current and will burn. The ferrite will not stop this... The same will happen when you remove power cables, here first remove HDMI cable.... To my opinion, a switch on the plus side of the battery could 'prevent' accidents... Switch it on when only when the cable work is done, switch it off before you remove cables... But better safe than sorry, use two batteries ;-)
The currents are by far not big enough to cause voltage-drops of any concern. I think it's either a ground-loop problem that breaks the input or output stage on the HDMI-connections than anything else.
I've powered both my camera and monitor from the same battery (camera via it's mounted-by-design V-mount plate, monitor via D-tap output on the camera) and never had any issues with my HDMI-ports. Even went hotplugging them on purpose: no problem at all.
@@weeardguywhat kind of mounted by design. Plate you used?
@@iamchristianconcha An IDX P-V2 V-mount plate.
that's funny! I bought this HEDBOX Unix-BM - V-Mount yesterday after reading your comment, I Suppose is the same principle, 1 output to Blackmagic camera with Breakaway DC (which I think means it won't burn my camera as it has a fuse inside)
Also keep in mind, when using a BMPCC that there is a ground looping issue. If you use your monitor plugged in to the same V-mount as the camera it can short out the HDMI as well.
Is this the same when using the monitor to power the camera? I have freeworld monitor that outputs 8v
@@Loftikaz I'm not sure. I think it might be just through D-TAP and a V mount.
@@Loftikaz I'd like to learn the answer too!
I think that was the cause for him not the cable itself but just wondering if they solved that issue with BMPCC 6k G2 thx
not too much to learn from this video. the expensive cables highlighted in the video is the same as the below version only it has a ferrite ring. you can buy ferrite rings in different sizes that you clip around any desired cabling. the ferrite ring is supposed to reduce interference and so serves things like recording and performance cables best rather than monitoring. i dont see from a technical perspective how the lead itself can can precipitate a higher or lower voltage. id be interested to see the engineers notes.
What did you expect? A tryhard RUclips-Influencer thinking he knows shit (he literally tought that ferrit ring was some kind of electric safety or something). These influencers are disgusting and 95% of the time don't know what they are talking about.
@@masqueradr 😭
@@masqueradr Brutal
In order to send more voltage or power you will need a Voltage Booster device that can convert 5v to 35v or more... those D-TAP wires are just wires! in the worse scenario your cheap D-TAP Wire can start getting warm because the coper inside is very thin to handle the voltage consumption. I will recommend you to power the cameras without using the out DC port from the monitor. BTW The little cylinder in one of your D-TAP wires is just ferrite to reduce interference or white noise. I hope this explanation is useful to you.
Hi man!
The exact thing happened to me last December 2018 and within a week I had a brand-new camera back from Blackmagic.
The Blackmagic customer service was great!
Better use the higher end HDMI-Dtap cables!
First - power your camera, attach HDMI/SDI cable to the monitor, then Second - powering the monitor is the last step. When you switch off, the order is 1.Moniitor -Off, 2,camera- off. Its not because of the cheap or expensive cables.
Thank you for that, I have been following this protocol of power procedures and everything still works fine. Because I have the cheap Amazon cable. Cheers
That actually is a good way to fry an HDMI input if it is susceptible to hot-plugging damage. Power down EVERYTHING (if your camera or monitor is connected to mains power, it could be a good idea to not only power it down, but also disconnect it from its mains supply), than connect your HDMI cable and turn on your equipment (order doesn't matter).
SDI is by far not as bad as HDMI, as you can't connect a BNC cable without the ground contact mating first and it could very well be the output is galvanically isolated as well (hey, it's a pro connection, where HDMI is a consumer connection, pro's don't want to put up with strange problems because of ground loops or interference onto a god knows how long SDI-cable)
Good stuff....think I just did the same exact thing with my BMPCC 4K. You're the only one to cover this thus far....thanks.
In my opinon everyone should use a "star ground" for their rigs to be safe. Multi-path is probably what caused this issue, the ground in the HDMI had better potential to the V mount.
Could you link me what a "star ground" is and where to buy it? Isn't all consumer electric equipment groudned on default?
I had this happen with my BMMCC. I just power my monitor with batteries now so I'm never at risk of this happening.
Thankyou very much for share your experience!!! You saved my BMP6KPRO!!! This kind of things we usually don't give the attention that it needs and we make mistakes that could be expensive.
Your video is super dark, unlike when you talked about the sponsership video that joint is super bright, can we get that look ?
When it comes to cables, I’d only ever go with Kondor Blue, great products.
Glad you got it “Resolved” hahahaa! Thanks for the great video. I’m glad I saw this before I had the problem myself!
Not surprised about the HDMI ports...they are not a professional port. SDI is a solid locking connection and these manufacturers need to put them on.
Good to hear black magic support works and you found reason for the fault.
A piece of information for whoever own the pocket 4K/6k. The cheap cable, connecting the camera and the monitor on the same vmount battery/plate, or connect the camera and the monitor on the AC power, all of this option will case the issue of frying your HDMI port and could even fry your monitor.
Dude this is becoming of increasing concern. There are reports of more and more bogus products being sold on Amazon. Even things that are supposed to be brand name like some Sandisk cards that are bootleg knockoffs. I'm not saying stop shopping at Amazon but I'm saying we all need to learn how to spot a fake or inferior product and send that crap right back lol! Everything from cables to batteries to memory cards. I too am starting to only buy certain integral pieces from big-name stores. Thanks for this informative video!
All companies that sell high end products for film-related use MUST have fast support! It’s crazy to think that you waited 1/4 of a year to get your Sony back!!
I have heard a different explanation for this phenomenon. I was told if you power your camera and your monitor from the same power source it can create a power loop that will fry the HDMI port in the camera. I don’t know if this is true but on all of my cameras I have followed this religiously and I have never had a problem. I have been shooting video professionally for 23 years, okay I have only been using external monitor/recorders for the last 15 years, but I have four cameras. I shoot multicam live theatre, concerts and dance shows. I have also shot two camera shoots for dance competitions that sometimes require me to shoot twelve hours continuously. I have three Ninja Vs which for the past two years have been powered by V mount batteries.
Black Magic sounds good over and over.
The only bad I hear is that the pocket cinema models are too advanced and needs more accessories to complement it. So naturally those are from amateurs, not professionals.
I'm a noob, with my first camera, an 80d. So I'm no where near a BM 4k, but having a company like BM to step up the game in hardware and customer services effects us all.
Thanks for your review.
I just found you yesterday and am subbed!!
How understand what cable d-tap is good?
Good job bro, we salute BM over here too, we’re going to show love to BM so they can keep that good gear coming.
Have you got any measures for that wrong cable output for consideration? I've just measured 2 of my vlock batteries (with and without the "bad" titled cable) and both of their outputs falls between the advertised needs of my bmpcc 4k. The advertised voltages are between 10-20 volts. I barely think that any v-lock batteries are doing more than 20v's. I think the problem can caused by lover voltages instead of over volts, and if it's the case then it's not a cable it is a battery issue instead!
Good to know about Blackmagic quick support.
Is it safe to power my BMPCC 4K with the Feelworld plus monitor using the dc output option?
Omg Omg Omg Thank you! I went through the exact same thing with my Sony A6500. I fried it twice using a V-Mount batter back and cheap d-tap cable but has no idea why until I watched your video. 4 weeks later and Sony still has my camera even though I turned down the repair for $483. For some reason that haven’t sent it back to me yet. So, what’s a better D-Tap battery cable? I bought mine off of Amazon. Thanks
"My black magic broke on me man " 😅 Sorry it was funny how you said it
where did you buy your new cable from? what brand is it?
Good to know about the Dtap cable, would love to know more in depth as to a more in-depth explication tto this cause, Thanks for the warning though probably saved my camera HDMI out.
Great video. What do you think about the 6Ks? The work flow, storage challenges and power consumption are tough enough on the 4K, but 6K? Is it really worth it given the added headache?
Nice one dude. Was just looking for other BMPCC4k shooters and found your channel. Stay tuned and keep up the good work. Love this camera! New follower
Were you running the dtap to a dummy battery or to the DC power input on the side? I presume you were using a dummy battery because those need to regulated Dow to 7.4v but the cam though DC can accept 12v to 20v.
No dummy battery
so no more problems ever since? thanks man!!
"Too much electricity" is not a great way to describe it. I suspect you mean "too high a voltage". Personally I would always measure the voltage before plugging in a new cable arrangement and after checking that the camera can accept that voltage. You said you were plugging the D-Tap into a dummy battery, well the real LP-E6 battery has a nominal output voltage of 7.4volts, so somewhere in between you would need a voltage regulator to reduce the voltage from the D-TAP. A fully charged LP-E6 will only ever get up to 8.4V under no load (i.e. open circuit) conditions, so make sure your dummy one is regulating to below that voltage. As a regular LP-E6 discharges its voltage will drop to around 6volts before the camera stops because of low voltage. I would aim to regulate to 7.4volts at the output terminals of the dummy battery and confirm that that is the case before plugging the dummy battery into your BMPCC4K.
This just happen to my BM6K which was connected via HDMI to my atomos and both powered by the same V-mount battery. Cheap D-taps but interesting how after almost a year of this same setup that it just happed out of the blue. The atomos works except for the HDMI input, that doesn't work at all which means it's unusable. Can you confirm if my scenario is possibly the same cause?
Great info dude 👍
I've sent a camera to Sony before (it got wet) and they sent it back to me the following week with a kit lens attached.
Wow, thanks for sharing your story!! its truly helpfull to avoid burning our cameras.. good luck!
Cheers from Spain
I love Spain! 🇪🇸
I fried a monitor using direct D-Tap current - learned my lesson - I only use USB-C PD connections now (my V-Mount batteries have several of these PD USB-C outputs now - and I have the D-Tap to USB-C PD Kondor Blue cable) - PD handles all of the voltage/amperage handshakes to prevent these problems. I power my FX 30 and monitor (Feelworld) directly off the USB-C PD output of my V-Mount batteries this way
I'm torn between the video above and the comments below. People in the comments say the cable is most likely not the issue however in the video you say this has happened to 2 other cameras and when you bought a better cable it no longer happened... I just bought a Core SWX Powerbase EDGE but its a 14 volt battery that came with a cable for the BLPCC 6k but from what I understand you can harm the circuits in the camera with any voltage over 10v. The battery puts out 14v so... Am I okay? The battery states it is made for the BLMPCC 6k
You worked for DELL, JCPenney , Walmart and Canes? Where can I check out the videos?
I didn’t film all of them but most of the BTS is on our app
Interesting, I just fried my HDMI output on my bmpcc. I can't send it in right now because I have two shoots coming up, will suck without my monitor but they are indoors at least.. I've been using it for a few years with the same d taps. I honestly don't remember where I got them (likely b&h) or if they were cheap (probably).
So either BM hasn't got their protection on the HDMI-connection up to standards (but hey... it still is a consumer connection... pro's use SDI) or it really is up to the cable (which I doubt, but on the other hand bad cables can cause strange things to happen if the voltage sags too much, switch mode converters are a pain as they will just draw more current as the input voltage drops, doing so to keep their output up to spec).
I've tried many setups (JVC GY-HM100, HM250, HM850 and a Blackmagic Video Assist) and started hotplugging the thing via HDMI on purpose. In case of the JVC GY-HM100, it was powered by mains supply, in case of the HM250, it was powered via a 9-36 Vin to 12Vout (ISOLATED!) DC/DC converter by Murata if I'm not mistaken which in turn was fed by a V-mount battery (tried the mains supply as well), the HM850 was powered via a V-mount battery, directly powering the camera via the V-mount plate ánd monitor via D-tap, with the HDMI out connected to the monitor.
As said: I started hotplugging on purpose on all occasions, but never did one output (or the input on the Video Assist) fail me once.
That ferrite ring has nothing to do with your problem. It wasn’t what caused the problem.
Please provide more info, coz I doubt its a cable. This crap is well known. What battery plate u were using? What monitor? What V mount battery?
Of course ,though what has to be kept in mind is that you have a channel...You have a channel...it's like a person owning a magazine....and you can say what you like - knowing that i'm sure if they were even a bit on the ball they would have known to take care of you...just good business sense. But how is the service flow for the average person?
Can you or someone drop an Amazon link to I can get that It happend to my old bmpcc and I got a new one so I don't want to disk it. thanks
Everyone wants to save a buck (me iincluded). This video is a great example of paying more to protect your equipment. Do it! It's worth it, this video proves that!
Same here. BM Support ROCK!
please can you recommend a specific d-tap power cable?
Good advice. I never use non-branded components. Also, always buy it from TRUSTED sources only.
Do u have a link to good dtap power adapter for monitor
Thanks for the good review bruss. Mad respect ✊
Great content. Is it possible you can do a video on how you protect your BMPCC4K when it comes to the weather. Thanks.
Which cord would you suggest?
lol, Four people failed to click the thumbs down twice!
Yo Ty, where can I see some of your professional client work?
FlashfilmMedia.com
the cable may be flawed but its not "the voltage"
Had the exact same problem with my pocket when I got it early in the year. I had a cheap v mount plate and it fried the HDMI port. BM got it back to me fixed for free in under a week. Black magic is changing the industry.
I am about to purchase a V mount plate, Which one should I avoid? thanks
Thank you for this video. I fried my Sony A6500 and was out of business. Can you tell us what Dtap battery cable you use that isn’t a cheap one? I couldn’t tell from the pic in the vid and didn’t see it in the description. Thanks
👏🏿🙌🏿❤️👏🏿🙌🏿 Great job Black Magic! I’ll now buy the 6k Pro!
Great video. A man you have to do a review on the Diffuser kit in this video. Thanks
Do you have or can you make a video for black magic4k tutorial on filming a music video please. I am so stuck and really don't get the settings for filming.
When my blackmagic (production camera 4K) broke down, the repair took 3 months. In our country there is no official service, this is a problem.
Daaaamn what country are you in bro?
@@FlashFilmAcademy Ukraine )
awh man, that sucks! good lookin out! I had a cheap cable in my cinema wish list.
Yes thank you for the video I just got me a bmpcc4k then they dropped the 6k but anyway how can you tell if the sensor on the 4K is defective? Because my footage is not clean and with lines like a old tv.
D-tap is unfortunately a really bad design, no matter if you buy a cheap or expensive one. If pressed hard, which I know of a number of cases, you can put it in up side down pressing the halves apart just a bit resulting in reversed polarization and something electronic being fried.
Which D-Tap cables do you recommend?
In Europe they have service? now i dont have any problem, just want to know :D
Great info!! Can u tell us the brand of cable that gave u issues?? This way we stay away from it!
Is Kondor Blue safe to use?
Thanks for the heads up!
What brand was the cable that fried your camera?
It was so no name brand from Amazon
@@FlashFilmAcademy I was recommended the Twisted Veins brand a while back. They're high quality HDMI cables that I've used with my GH5 and P4K to great effect.
I had a feeling it was related to D-Tap, I’ve heard and read so many horror stories and have seen how easy it is to mess things up or get some sort of “gotcha” moment and ruin gear, it’s a wonder anybody uses it! But I understand why it’s there and why people use it but it’s not something I would want to mess around with.
It's not related to D-tap. This guy probably doesn't know shit what he's talking about. I use D-tap all the time and it powers both my camera (JVC GY-HM850) and my monitor (Video Assist by Blackmagic). From the D-tap outlet, there's a straight-through connection to the DC-jack on the Video Assist. Even went hotplugging the HDMI and power connection on purpose, but just couldn't get any issue to arise.
Same with my other camera (JVC GY-HM200): with the camera powered by a non-isolated converter (the DC-jack takes 12 Volt only as far as I know by now) and supplying power to a monitor as well, it doesn't matter what I do, it just won't break anything.
I'm now working on getting a decent converter to power my mic-receiver as well, as I don't want to take even more batteries (AA's) with me while I'm walking around with a power-house on my shoulder (that it automatically turns on when fed via USB-micro (which I consider the absolute worst connection for (semi-)professional AV-stuff) is a nice extra)
Though I have not been able to break anything, I prefer coldplugging. No battery on the camera, then connect everything, then place the battery.
So the fable mentioned ok 4:25 can’t damage the hdmi port? Did anyone tested this?
thx for the heads up!
Love this guy
WTF.
I use a VMount and have a DIY cable. Its working fine.
I have the DTap connected directly to the BMPCC4K and a 12V out to my monitor. It's working absolutely fine.
Should work on future too because everyone is getting the power is needed right?!
Great tip! Thanks!
Mine just crapped out on me recently, I used the included power cable to D-Tap for my Portkeys BM5.. Really a bummer on Portkeys part if this is the reason it doesn't work.
My man it might not be an issue of the cheap or expensive cables. You might be maxing out the input range which is frying out your circuits. Same would happen if you power a bmpcc 4k with a v-mount through a dummy battery with a 6-10V range instead of the DC in which has a more suitable 12-20 range. Read manual carefully and adhere to the range that's provided. The 'expensive' cable that you showed an image of, has that 'lil thing' in the middle which is bringing it down from the v-mounts 14.2V output to a 6.8V output. But if it fails, you'll smoke up the camera again. Buy a v-mount plate with multiple outputs having multiple options.
did you also break your video light too? You're underexposed.
Almost all his videos are underexposed, which is an irony.
rather be underexposed than a cheeky bitch
he wants to be invisible, if you understand.
He's black, dude.
Right!!
Did you try to power up both (camera and recorder) with a single power bank PD? What about hot swapping power banks? I want to power up canon r5 (15W) and ninja V+ (22W) with 2 power banks that can handle 37 W each, for long recordings!!! I want to create a Y cable for 2 powerbanks (in the same time) and one end that deliver power to the rig (here with another split, one for dummy and one for ninja). If any power Bank have at least 37W I can record without stop, just replace from time to time the power banks.
Thanks for the tip !
I don’t see why everyone is busting your chops on the exposure. MAYBE it’s a half a stop under. But the main difference between your Academy video and this mainly looks like a LUT difference or gamma difference. I personally prefer the more muted look of the main video. Maybe having the light a little less flat and a hair light to give you some separation. But I think your skin tones look more natural in the main video. People be nitpicking wayyyy too much.
Lol right bro! it's amazing how so many are critics all of a sudden and if you don't change they feel like you can't take constructive criticism. Maybe this is my style 🤷🏾♂️. My goal was never a high-key look
Keep doing you. Our marketing group loves your content. Your video on the 6k telling everyone their favorite camera was dead had us rolling. Straight facts and good knowledge found here.
Up in Denton, had no idea you were in Dallas. Love your videos, man. Sorry about your camera...definitely taking notes.
Valuable info!
Appreciate this video man.
I did the same to my blackmagic micro, I no longer power any of my cameras from a Dtap, I have a new set of batteries that rum the same or longer than the v mount's, can run two devises at the same time and are super light, not to mention they are only $35.00 a piece, I have been using them for two years with no failures or voltage issues, by the way Blackmagic support as always been good with me but that particular camera was purchased from Adorama with the VIP 360, they replaced the camera with a new one no questions asked, there is a company out of Long Island that makes custom voltage regulated cables specific for whatever devise you are using.
What types batteries are you using for your camera?
@@mauricalv1 They are from Talentcell the model number is YB1206000 12V 6000mAh I run my Blackmagic video assist monitor and the camera or whatever else I need it for, comes with a splitter cable, I can email you a picture of them
@@valenciosmall1683 Thank you
Valencio Small can you provide a link to the cable you use to power your camera through this battery?
Hi are you gonna do a color grading tutorial anytime soon?
Why is it never bright enough lol
Because I'm black bro!!! Lol JK That's just my style bro I like it a little dark
FlashFilm Academy 🤣 i figures it was your style. I’m definitely getting used to it.
FlashFilm Academy 🤣🤣 you kill me
Cable doesn't create any " extra " or " excessive " electricity! Bad connectors at each end could, possibly create intermittent " short " that could mangle the internal boards at each end but that's that. Most possibly there is something wrong with your monitor's out port board regulators that's powering the camera. You should check it out before frying another camera.
BTW, as a pro content producer you should know that the jingle on your intro-title is way too loud
My mate has his Panasonic camera fixed by Sony took like 4 months. I think it's just them.
Do you go to the WPPI? if so I hope to meet you.
I won’t be there this year
what was the brand of the bad cable?
It was so no name brand from Amazon
Thanks man but please focus on the issue listed on the video title not customer service
I run my BMPCC6K directly from a V-mount Battery (no plate) with a d-tap. It says 15.4V on the Camera. Is that okay?
From BM website the power input is rated for 12V-20V
Only plug in quality products into your camera. That goes for data cards too! This isn’t an area to ever cut costs. Period.
"click the thumbs down button twice" lmao roasted