Another problem has occurred on my 1977 Ford Ltd Landau. I think coolant is leaking from the gasket around the heater box. You can never win with a Ford. Enjoy the video.
First, let me say how happy I am to see your beautiful LTD in a garage, out of the elements! And, extra points for covering the concrete underneath. It's almost certainly your heater core. And it's so easy to replace, you'd be a fool not to remove it and have a look. From my experience there is not an easier heater core to replace on any other car. I recall replacing mine in slightly less than an hour! A few screws/bolts to remove the access plate, and it will pull straight up and out! Also, since the heater box is in the engine compartment and not the passenger compartment, it's unlikely that you'd have evidence of a leak there until it's REALLY bad, if at all. You caught it early so you should be good. Let us know what you find out! P.S. if you end up replacing it, replace the gasket that holds it in place if looks worn at all. Otherwise, it will rattle.
My 78 Thunderbird has the same style heater core as your LTD. As previously stated, your coolant will weep from the case at the bottom. I would swap out your heater core and the connecting hoses and that should solve it if you cannot find a leak anywhere else. See if you can rent a pressure tester from a parts store to put some pressure on the system while looking for the leak. As for the radiator I would stick with the original and have a radiator shop check and rebuild if necessary. It lasted all these years after all. A good radiator shop can also add a row for better cooling, and you support local business instead of some offshore conglomerate. If you want to pull heat out of the engine, think of an auxiliary oil cooler for trans, Eng oil, PS fluid, etc. Often you can find good heavy-duty unit off pickups in a pic and pull yard. Just my ideas. Great car!
Nice Ltd. Nice to see a young man driving a real car. I have a 1979 lincoln towncar. I would check the heat valve above the heater core. Also the heater hoses that run along the valve cover. Also I would keep the old school radiater 3 or 4 core inside. They are not strong but avoid the China reproductions.
Try to keep your brass radiator as long as you can, aluminum radiator may look great but it causes electrolysis because it's two different types of metal and then before you know it you'll have difficulties you'd not have if you keep that brass radiator
Definitely the heater core. Easy to swap. As for the radiator, rebuild the old unit. Add a third row to increase your capacity and stay with the copper/brass. Those aluminim replacements are not the best quality.
@@LtdAuto-77 One more suggestion. Change the timing chain. If it has never been changed but still the original factory set, the gears will be nylon coated. You do not want any of the nylon from those teeth getting into the oil and plugging the oil pump. If it has been changed to an all metal replacement, you'll have no worries. Just an FYI.
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First, let me say how happy I am to see your beautiful LTD in a garage, out of the elements! And, extra points for covering the concrete underneath. It's almost certainly your heater core. And it's so easy to replace, you'd be a fool not to remove it and have a look. From my experience there is not an easier heater core to replace on any other car. I recall replacing mine in slightly less than an hour! A few screws/bolts to remove the access plate, and it will pull straight up and out! Also, since the heater box is in the engine compartment and not the passenger compartment, it's unlikely that you'd have evidence of a leak there until it's REALLY bad, if at all. You caught it early so you should be good. Let us know what you find out! P.S. if you end up replacing it, replace the gasket that holds it in place if looks worn at all. Otherwise, it will rattle.
Thanks
My 78 Thunderbird has the same style heater core as your LTD. As previously stated, your coolant will weep from the case at the bottom. I would swap out your heater core and the connecting hoses and that should solve it if you cannot find a leak anywhere else. See if you can rent a pressure tester from a parts store to put some pressure on the system while looking for the leak. As for the radiator I would stick with the original and have a radiator shop check and rebuild if necessary. It lasted all these years after all. A good radiator shop can also add a row for better cooling, and you support local business instead of some offshore conglomerate. If you want to pull heat out of the engine, think of an auxiliary oil cooler for trans, Eng oil, PS fluid, etc. Often you can find good heavy-duty unit off pickups in a pic and pull yard. Just my ideas. Great car!
Thanks for the advice
Nice Ltd. Nice to see a young man driving a real car. I have a 1979 lincoln towncar. I would check the heat valve above the heater core. Also the heater hoses that run along the valve cover. Also I would keep the old school radiater 3 or 4 core inside. They are not strong but avoid the China reproductions.
Cool, thanks
Part 2 a bad heater core on those would fog the inside of the windshield with a oily residue and smell very sweet coming through the vents
Try to keep your brass radiator as long as you can, aluminum radiator may look great but it causes electrolysis because it's two different types of metal and then before you know it you'll have difficulties you'd not have if you keep that brass radiator
Ford rules!
Definitely the heater core. Easy to swap. As for the radiator, rebuild the old unit. Add a third row to increase your capacity and stay with the copper/brass. Those aluminim replacements are not the best quality.
Thanks for the tips!
@@LtdAuto-77 One more suggestion. Change the timing chain. If it has never been changed but still the original factory set, the gears will be nylon coated. You do not want any of the nylon from those teeth getting into the oil and plugging the oil pump. If it has been changed to an all metal replacement, you'll have no worries. Just an FYI.
I'm not a mechanic but I believe that there's a way to bypass the heater core without replacing it
But in the winter you would have no heat. I'm thinking temporary fix.
Cool, I will take a look at it.