Just in case anyone is wondering, if it's your evaporator, the whole dashboard has to come out to get to it. It will be a 10 hour job for the techs at a repair shop.
It it's the evaporator, and your car has a few miles and years on it already, you should really think if you really need the AC working. In most cars that's really a hell of a job and it will cost money like big time.
taking the dash apart are the dreaded words nobody wants to hear. it doesnt have to be that way. they could make it easier to do. they could even allow the ugly screws to be laid out in plain sight and have the panels be multiple pieces instead of one big piece and make it so that nothing else has to come off. they could.
@dangerdavefreestyle this is true. I did an evaporator on an early to mid 2000s tundra. 2.5 hr job. Quick and easy. The dash stays in place, wish all were like that
Thanks G. Excellent video. You taught me some effective techniques for finding evaporator leaks. I have to look at a 2018 Dodge Town and Country soon that has a mysterious slow leak. Any tips? I also suspect the evaporator.
@@luismarty1685 Preciate that update. Gonna end up buying a leak detector myself after not finding any UV dye anywhere else in the engine by or by any other ac components.
I hope you go beyond the clogged hose inside the cabin. Bc i see a tin of vids that end with that, and speaking for myself and others the hose isnt cloggeg🙏🏻...Thanks for your Video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻💯
I was thinking my BMW AC leak was the evap coil. But how to make sure. Was playing with the grand kids one night and as I was showing them the UV flashlight in the driveway.........BOOM! Evidence of dye exactly where the X5 had just been moved from. I'm thinking most materials that can handle the water leaking from that drain tube and can dry out later will give one a good indication of an evap leak. The dye will remain after the water has dried out. It looks washed out........but where else would that dye come from.
Injecting some stop leak in that evaporator, you think might fix it? I have the exact same issue and thinking about how to fix it without tearing down my dashboard. Thanks!
I dont like using sealants in ac systems because sometimes it clogs up other things that are not supposed to clog up. Sealants hardens when exposed to air/humidity outside the system. If you have air/moisture in the system it will harden the sealant inside. Use at your own risk.
@@gautorepairgood advice, that sealant might contaminate another component down the line it’s not a good idea in AC system. If the leak isn’t tooooo bad tbh could just keep adding refrig if you don’t want to tear out the dash.
For this vehicle, it would be worth the cost of repair $2500. In my opinion, if a repair costs a total of 1/3 the value of the vehicle it is not worth it.
$2500 here, 10 hours labor @ $152/hr plus $500 for the part ($150 cost plus 3x part markup). I don't work at a dealership anymore so I don't have to do these, I'm able to turn away work (definitely not doing this for the $20/hr I'm getting paid).
@@rotaryskratch18 that's why you have no customers lol. What kind of idiot would even consider paying that much. It's a $1000 job tops including materials.
Robinair has every tool you will need for A/C work. Here is their dye injector. Not the same as what was used in the video. www.robinair.com/products/uv-leak-detection-kit Just Google the part number and you can find them available from many online distributors. I’ve purchased from Zoro, before.
You can just use the re-fill line of a set of ac manifold gauges with a can of refrigerant. If no ac manifold gauges, you can also instead add a can of refrigerant with dye pre-added. Both work fine for adding dye into the system. You only need 1/4oz, it mixes with PAG oil. Too much, can adversely affect cooling.
@@gautorepair Thanks for response, I am busy searching Manila for my 20 year old Serena part, searching by net as we r still in lockdown - enjoyed the way u put out your programme.
Just in case anyone is wondering, if it's your evaporator, the whole dashboard has to come out to get to it. It will be a 10 hour job for the techs at a repair shop.
not mine, i have a previa and i just take apart the front vent box with blower takes maybe 30 min to unbolt everything
Dodge engineers are the best! Not!
It it's the evaporator, and your car has a few miles and years on it already, you should really think if you really need the AC working. In most cars that's really a hell of a job and it will cost money like big time.
taking the dash apart are the dreaded words nobody wants to hear. it doesnt have to be that way. they could make it easier to do. they could even allow the ugly screws to be laid out in plain sight and have the panels be multiple pieces instead of one big piece and make it so that nothing else has to come off. they could.
@dangerdavefreestyle this is true. I did an evaporator on an early to mid 2000s tundra. 2.5 hr job. Quick and easy. The dash stays in place, wish all were like that
To anyone who doesn't appreciate this, try to remove any panel upside down, and with only one hand, while holding a camera steady on the target...
Also a link to the leak detector please. Looks more efficient than mine
G What make is your electronic ac leak detector as it looks much more advanced than mine.
Thanks G. Excellent video. You taught me some effective techniques for finding evaporator leaks. I have to look at a 2018 Dodge Town and Country soon that has a mysterious slow leak. Any tips? I also suspect the evaporator.
Add some die if possible. It may take some time for the die to work its way out.
@@gautorepair Already done sir. About 2 weeks ago. I need to schedule a return appointment.
It was the rear A/C evaporator that was leaking.
@@luismarty1685 Preciate that update. Gonna end up buying a leak detector myself after not finding any UV dye anywhere else in the engine by or by any other ac components.
I think A/C pro R134a Super Seal might help you guys with these slow leaks
I hope you go beyond the clogged hose inside the cabin. Bc i see a tin of vids that end with that, and speaking for myself and others the hose isnt cloggeg🙏🏻...Thanks for your Video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻💯
Can you also post the picture of leaky evaporator?
I was thinking my BMW AC leak was the evap coil. But how to make sure. Was playing with the grand kids one night and as I was showing them the UV flashlight in the driveway.........BOOM! Evidence of dye exactly where the X5 had just been moved from. I'm thinking most materials that can handle the water leaking from that drain tube and can dry out later will give one a good indication of an evap leak. The dye will remain after the water has dried out. It looks washed out........but where else would that dye come from.
Nice Work. Thanks for Sharing.
Can't you insert a leak stoper substance?
Injecting some stop leak in that evaporator, you think might fix it? I have the exact same issue and thinking about how to fix it without tearing down my dashboard. Thanks!
I dont like using sealants in ac systems because sometimes it clogs up other things that are not supposed to clog up. Sealants hardens when exposed to air/humidity outside the system. If you have air/moisture in the system it will harden the sealant inside. Use at your own risk.
@@gautorepairgood advice, that sealant might contaminate another component down the line it’s not a good idea in AC system. If the leak isn’t tooooo bad tbh could just keep adding refrig if you don’t want to tear out the dash.
For this vehicle, it would be worth the cost of repair $2500. In my opinion, if a repair costs a total of 1/3 the value of the vehicle it is not worth it.
Evaporator leaks are mostly not worthy to repair.
Thank you ! Nice video
How much was it to repair that evaporator core?
Lol usually that’s the most expensive cause of the amount of time it takes
$48 receiver + $3 for the orifice tube
@@a1fixitguy309 wait but I thought the evap was leaking?
$2500 here, 10 hours labor @ $152/hr plus $500 for the part ($150 cost plus 3x part markup).
I don't work at a dealership anymore so I don't have to do these, I'm able to turn away work (definitely not doing this for the $20/hr I'm getting paid).
@@rotaryskratch18 that's why you have no customers lol. What kind of idiot would even consider paying that much. It's a $1000 job tops including materials.
So can you send a link for that tool you used to introduce dye into the system ?
Robinair has every tool you will need for A/C work. Here is their dye injector. Not the same as what was used in the video.
www.robinair.com/products/uv-leak-detection-kit
Just Google the part number and you can find them available from many online distributors. I’ve purchased from Zoro, before.
You can just use the re-fill line of a set of ac manifold gauges with a can of refrigerant.
If no ac manifold gauges, you can also instead add a can of refrigerant with dye pre-added.
Both work fine for adding dye into the system.
You only need 1/4oz, it mixes with PAG oil. Too much, can adversely affect cooling.
Thanks for helping me out
evaporator leak not possible to make small repair? - spares are hard for me.
I haven't heard of the evaporator being successfully repaired. But i guess anything is possible. To me it seems too risky.
@@gautorepair Thanks for response, I am busy searching Manila for my 20 year old Serena part, searching by net as we r still in lockdown - enjoyed the way u put out your
programme.
Why would AC blow out moisture from vents
how would i repair that i have the same problem?
If you have an evaporator leak you need to replace it.
🤔👌👋👍
Link for the tool
you are over charging feron should be 30 psi when temperature outside is 20c and if its 40c now its should 50 psi