Worth mentioning that the pump is under the cab on the super crew. I learned the hard way. Couldn't see it until I got the bed off. I'll have to drop the tank anyways. And those T50 PLUS torxs are a b. Had to weld a nut on one to get it off. Don't make my mistake! 😆
As in what thickness? I'm not sure. Probably no bigger than 16 gauge, maybe even thinner since it doesn't have to carry significant amperage, just a voltage signal. What are you doing with it?
Thank you so much because I've done plenty of chevys and dodge never had to drop the tank so glad as long as it's not a crew cab F 150 can be done that way too 😅
@@skidoorider5856 Wrong, impossible to reach the main gas fill pipe hose clamp. At least on my 2010 F150 145" wheelbase crew cab. The return vapor line on my truck was welded to the main gas fill pipe and that connection next to the fill pipe hose clamp was unreachable as well. Even if you did get it off there would be no way to reinsert either of those lines with 2 inches of clearance. You know how hard it is to reattach hoses anywhere on a vehicle. Imagine having 10% of your strength to use in that limited (if not impossible) area to work. I'll be trying this videos technique today. If I can't get the clearance needed I'll be setting up an A frame wench setup straddling both sides of the truck to hoist the bed straight up then I'll simply roll the truck forward for access. This does require some additional electrical and venting connections to be released. The main focus (or problem) of dropping the tank appears to be if you think you can access those 2 hoses. Look through your left rear wheelwell and follow the gas fill pipe to see if your connections are accessible. Even if accessible ask yourself will you be able to re-insert those 2 lines (main gas fill and vapor return line)
Worth mentioning that the pump is under the cab on the super crew. I learned the hard way. Couldn't see it until I got the bed off. I'll have to drop the tank anyways. And those T50 PLUS torxs are a b. Had to weld a nut on one to get it off. Don't make my mistake! 😆
Your comment saved me a lot of time. I almost started doing this when I noticed all hoses ran under the cab. Still gotta drop the tank
my frame bolts have been off recently, not rusted solid so I'll def use this method for FP replacement
Thanks you,FordMakulico
That information really help me out
I start to make a square cut in the bed your idea is
is a lot better
Thanks 👍
Haha, I'm not Makuloco, but thanks. Glad it helped.
This is tremendous! Thanks!
you didnt show much to replace the fuel pump?
I did the bed slide. Jack it up enough with wood and you can slide it back to get in from the sides standing up
Is there a plug available underneath to enable unpluging the tail, brake and license plate lights?
Thank you I appreciate the video
What size were those bolts for the bed. Or was that a torque
They take a Torx Plus TP50
Very good idea My friend
What gauge is the yellow wire from the sending unit to the cluster in the cab?
As in what thickness? I'm not sure. Probably no bigger than 16 gauge, maybe even thinner since it doesn't have to carry significant amperage, just a voltage signal. What are you doing with it?
Sturdy 🔋🤘🏾
I'd rather do it that way any time.
Thank you so much because I've done plenty of chevys and dodge never had to drop the tank so glad as long as it's not a crew cab F 150 can be done that way too 😅
Is it that hard to drop a tank? Damn
yes
No it's not that hard
@@skidoorider5856 Wrong, impossible to reach the main gas fill pipe hose clamp. At least on my 2010 F150 145" wheelbase crew cab. The return vapor line on my truck was welded to the main gas fill pipe and that connection next to the fill pipe hose clamp was unreachable as well. Even if you did get it off there would be no way to reinsert either of those lines with 2 inches of clearance. You know how hard it is to reattach hoses anywhere on a vehicle. Imagine having 10% of your strength to use in that limited (if not impossible) area to work. I'll be trying this videos technique today. If I can't get the clearance needed I'll be setting up an A frame wench setup straddling both sides of the truck to hoist the bed straight up then I'll simply roll the truck forward for access. This does require some additional electrical and venting connections to be released. The main focus (or problem) of dropping the tank appears to be if you think you can access those 2 hoses. Look through your left rear wheelwell and follow the gas fill pipe to see if your connections are accessible. Even if accessible ask yourself will you be able to re-insert those 2 lines (main gas fill and vapor return line)
No way
BMI 😂