How to build a (next level) cabinet box | Revealed
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- Опубликовано: 6 апр 2021
- Do you ever wonder how professionals build cabinet boxes? Ken Decost walks you through our process on how to build a cabinet box all the way from a piece of plywood, CNC cut pieces, edge banding, to assembled and ready for drawers and doors. Tune in for a great one!
Follow Ken on Instagram: / kendecost
Want to learn more about something happening in the shop? Leave a comment below and Ken will work it into a future episode.
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NS Builders operates in Boston, Newton, Cambridge, and in the greater Boston area. Currently, 5 projects are under construction with a few new projects coming soon.
Our software: get.buildertrend.com/nsbuilders
NS Builders website: www.nsbuilders.com/
Video Notes
Revealed gives you insight into a high-end cabinetry shop that builds and designs custom kitchens and millwork. Looking at cabinetry details, woodshop products, woodworking tools, wood selections, fastener selections, finish selections, cabinet design theory, and cabinet installation. NS builders crafts a top-level and luxury cabinet. Revealed is hosted by Ken DeCost the Director of Millwork at NS Builders.
Walkthrough cabinet shop processes, cabinet shop tools, millwork projects, woodworking, custom cabinets in the NS Builders shop. How to build and install Cabinetry, how to build and design kitchen cabinetry in a cabinet shop.
#Revealed
#NSBuilders
#Cabinetry 
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I never get tired of this channel. I was rewatching the episode where you went over your shop tools, and was wondering how you sharpen your shaper and router bits; sharp blades on all tools is the key to quality finished products. Maybe you could touch on it in a future episode. Many thanks.
Dude... you’re the man. Your boss is very, very fortunate to have you on board.
Appreciate that. I’ll be sure to let him know 🤣
So satisfying to see and hear screws going in. You have an awesome job
Thanks for taking the time to produce quality content. Great job explaining every step!!
Thats a well built cabinet! Love the premium materials you guys use. As well as the extra care. Most people dont see the type of skill and work it goes into making a quality product that you guys produce. Well done and thanks for the video!
Really appreciate that. Thanks for the recognition and watching along.
awesome! i just finished the mt copeland course last week. always great information from ns. thanks!
Thats great! Thanks for taking the course!
Exactly what I wanted to see 👍
Great attention to detail.
Very similar to how I built my cabinets. There's a very large shop in town with a 300k edge bander, a couple of $150k CNC routers, a beam saw, and a horizontal boring machine. We design our stuff on Cabinet Vision. They have very reasonable rates. So we have them pre cut, banded, and drilled. We also have a build package that lets us do single piece MedEx face frames. MedEx is super refined, water resistant, and very hard MDF. Gives a seamless quick cabinet when someone wants a framed cabinet. Our face frames have stopped dados for super quick assembly. If we need hardwood face frames (not painted) we have pre dadod stock for face frames. We use confirmat screws on all our cases.
So we basically sell, design, assemble, paint, and install. If we get backed up we can sub out the painting, or the even the assembly. The local factory will assemble for us if we need.
No shame at all in subbing things out when it makes financial sense. I actually find it makes life easier when you just stick to what you are best at, or what you enjoy the most
loved that last step of wiping the poly on the white line.
Its a good one and often overlooked.
Oh my we have the same finicky bander but we CNC our own parts. This will be a great training video for our guys. Since they don't believe what I'm telling them, maybe they'll listen to you. Thank you so much for sharing. I don't have the time or good looks to be a RUclips star
I’d love to see a video like this for your face frame process. Seeing each step in order with they “why” (e.g. screwing the back edge first after squaring things up to minimize movement) is super helpful.
This is in the works Alec. Thank you for watching!
Great episode. That CNC is a game changer. Pretty amazing. I'm enjoying seeing how you guys build this style of cabinetry and how it all comes together. Ashamedly, when I touch a cabinet it almost always has a face frame.
In no way am I criticizing NS builders or Ken because I’m a huge fan of their/his work, but I’ve always felt that face frame cabinets were a step above modern frameless- both structurally and in terms of the craftsmanship required to execute them. Frameless cabinets (in my opinion) are defined by the industrial processes used to create them- like the style was created for the cnc machine and marketed after the fact.
I know it’s what people want at this point and this video is a great example of bringing a higher level of craftsmanship to the design, but I’m always a little disappointed when I’m hired to build a set.
Nothing wrong with a face frame.
This is art and it therapeutic, educational at the same time. Thank you team for the upload
I’m going to have to steal the pre drilled parts idea. Makes assembly that much easier for green guys.
Ken this is great, really different from fabuwood, conestoga, wolf, those are kind of similar to assemble, used to do 100of them,but this seams a lot of strength 3/4all the way and no glue needed, nice, I imagine if you put glue on them,they be be like safe box, nice content, thanks for sharing
Wow, just like Ikea!
j/k, looks nice, well done. Also, you gotta get that $80 Festool carbide scraper for the edge banding, it works really well
Great episode as always. Keep the great content coming!
For cabinets that are non natural wood colored are you guys using PVC edgebanding or spraying wood banding the cabinet color?
The video and process is great, thank you, it truly is, but if and when you decide to make a cabinet the regular way (non CNC) do make a video about it.
Quality above and beyond. Is there a chance you can show how you attach a side panel to an end cabinet (side exposed). Would love to see how you guys do that without seeing any fasteners.. Thanks again for the great quality video..
Yes, absolutely! Thanks for watching Pete
Knowing these guys, it’s a lamello clamex 😂. Grk trim head through a shelf pin hole works for me. Then a cabinet screw in the top back and front, as tight to the top as possible. They’re pretty much never seen on lowers. In front of the hinge plates also works, as they get covered once doors get clipped on
Hey Ken - love your team's work. Great videos, thanks for sharing. At the beginning of your video you mentioned your design software...would you mind sharing w/ the rest of us, what design software you are using? Along w/ your CNC nesting software? And if you'd be willing to share why you've made those choices it would be appreciated. Many thanks in advance! rr
I’d love to see how you attach your toe kicks to the plastic adjustable feet I’ve seen from your install video. I also echo the comment below that I’d love to see how you attach your end panels. Love all your videos and attention to detail!
Question for you would it not be easier to put the hinges and drawer slides in before you assemble the unit? In your next video can you go over that you’re 32 mill system the hinges that you use the layout of your hinges and drawers and slides that would be great thank you great video by the way I learned a lot
Character In the video It's great, I like it a lot $$
How do you deal with finished ends? Obviously you don't want exposed fasteners.
Those mortises on the cabinets I’ve always thought of doing love the concept. Explains somewhat why you guys weren’t using confirmats in that last video.
It's a great method.
Mortise and tenons are completely unnecessary, even high end frameless cabinets here in Europe are butt joints.
It’s probably not for strength and more for alignment since they still screw them in. Here in the states I use confirmat screws to build cabinets. And I learned building euro style cabinets.
Have your edgebander serviced and you wont need to clean up those edges.
My son has the exact same Holzher as you have, but he knows how to keep it running as it should.
As you no doubt know, the newer models also prepare the edge of the plywood prior to the glue process.
hey NS crew, great video and great work. Question -- do you ever have projects where you're doing face frame cabinets instead of frameless? I'd love to see a video like this one except for face frame cabs, particularly how you construct the face frames, how you mate them to the cabinet boxes, and how (and when) the face frames are finished (before mating to the boxes?). Second question -- I've seen in one of your previous videos some frameless cabinetry that had white edge banding rather than matching wood edge banding. Was this achieved by using some sort of standard white banding, or were you able to exactly match the version of white the homeowner had selected for the painted doors? As we all know, there are a gazillion shades of "white" so was very curious if there was some sort of painting or finishing that goes on the edge banding, or if you just do a "close enough match" stock white banding? Thanks
As a DIY hobbyist, I now need to find a shop with a CNC 🤔
you pre drill your for case screws and shelf pins, but not hinges and slides?
nice. but what do you do with screw holes when the you have a gable end? Just a clean gable end panel?
What’s the material you’re working with on this project? Looks like a soft-wood ply veneered with maple, or beech maybe ?
7:29 if your cnc partner got a machine with tool (bit) change capability, then that pre-drill operation could also be automated and perfectly executed on every hole
Ken. Great video. Are you running Mozaik for your design software or something else which allows you to output cut files straight to CNC? Do you use 3/4" backs for base and wall? Thanks.
Same question. The bottom screen looks like VCarve, but that would have gotten the files from some other design software.
Spax actually make some pretty cool MDF screws, that don't need pre-drilling. Also isn't 13 ply plywood way stronger, or that's an overkill?
Surprised you don't use a countersink bit with a depth stop bearing to get consistent, clean screw holes? Any reason for this?
Do you use 3/4” backs for upper cabinets as well?!
7:34 what is the size and type of the screw you used for edge fastening? Nice instructions.
purchase link for "safety contacts" please! ... XD
Is your plywood finished on one side?
How do you manufacture a tenon on the CNC since it needs to be cut on all 4 sides?
I got a question. Where are the impact screw guns at Ken 🙄🤣
How do you build frameless as a DIY that doesn’t have access to a CNC? Pocket screws?
what is that hook thingy on the tenon
What chemical U guy’s applied on edges at end with piece of cloth.
What an awesome step-by-step video. I enjoyed how you explained the thought process for every step of the build. One question I had is related to screwing the cabinet components together without gluing. What are your thoughts on screws & glue vs. screws only? Would adding glue make the cabinet more rigid, or is the risk of the glue squeezing out onto the finished parts not worth the extra effort?
What is that edge band machine called?
No need for dados on back?
3/4" backs are serious
Since so much time is spent pre-drilling for recessed screw heads why not have the CNC do that with that drill bit? that way all you worry about is screwing on-site?
CNC doesn't have the range of motion to drill parallel to the table
@@bs838 wait what? He is drilling and in to the holes the CNC already made. However the cnc was using a regular bit instead of a recessed bit.
@@JoniAntonio I thought you were asking why they don't have predrilled holes into the ends of the panels (i.e. parallel to the sheet of plywood)
Even if the CNC countersunk those holes on the side panels, he would still have to drill through into the back panel so it won't split when the screw is placed
Looks great! I usually do face frame cabinets but I'm going to start on some frameless boxes for the first time soon. How do you handle a finished cabinet end panel? Do you re-veneer over the assembly screw holes, or take it into consideration during construction? How about when the show face of the cabinet is a different species than the cabinetry box (ex. white doors, drawers with prefinished maple boxes)?
The outtakes 😂 flip the camera on Doug for a random revealed episode. I’d love to hear what Ken is referencing
Right?! I'm going to start wearing a hidden camera! But shhh don't tell Doug.
WHY would you make your middle and top stretchers full depth?
Why no wood glue?
That's what I was going to ask.
It's super convenient and efficient for you guys to be able to outsource the fabrication of the cases. At what point in your operation as a company did you guys determine that it would be worth the cost of your time to send and store a bunk of plywood out to the CNC? Was there any considerations or compensation besides financial to have them help agree to that arrangement? Love seeing how a company I look up to operates.
Why do the top and bottom mortises on the side panel have a little L shape at the ends? Also, why do the the tenons on the shelves have an L shape cut on them?
I’ll respond since OP didn’t. The tenons cannot be fully qualified tenons since they were cut on a CNC. A CNC would require the workpiece to be flipped or on a vertical table. The mortises have a shape for the same reason: they were cut with a round bit on a CNC.
Safety contacts 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Have you ever built boxes with pocket screws? Advantages/disadvantages?
So, this past weekend I installed some cheap upper cabinets in my brother-in-law's laundry room from Lowe's. These Lowe's cabinets were complete garbage. I had to reinforce them with real wood, screws, and glue. The cabinets definitely would not have held dishes for very long. Seeing these cabinets in comparison to the Lowe's cabinets is truly wonderful.
Lowe's should be ashamed to sell such garbage. I realize they are very inexpensive but I wouldn't call them actual cabinets.
Will you release plans for the CNC or cut diagrams?
Safety contacts - approved by OSHA.
How does the lack on toe kick work? I had not seen them done like that until very recently. Are these just floating or do they get one added after install?
We do hardware first making it easier and more efficient. I'm hoping your CNC operator will drill all the system holes not just for shelves.
Not a drop of glue...
No glue?
Same question I had! Hope they answer
No glue. By not using glue we give ourselves the flexibility to make size adjustments down the road if a mistake is made. The mortise and tenon with the screws give us the strength we need without locking ourselves in with glue.
@@NSBuilders Just kind of surprising to me, given how much emphasis you put on overbuilding window casings and other such assemblies with multiple and often times redundant means of joinery (dominos plus pocket screws plus glue etc.). I would think there might be some loosening up of these cabinets over use and time, but I don't have nearly the experience you guys do so basically ignore everything I've said
@@bs838 once screwed to the wall/floor or whatever they’re screwed to, they really can’t move. So they’ll loosening up is null
How we build our cabinets........have someone else do it. Bomb proof box you have there. 3/4 back and a full piece divider. Didn’t see any glue used? Not hating, just jealous of your access to a CNC.
wow how do you make any money, you have to pay the CNC guy, and you have so much time putting that together, plus the design of it makes it a lot harder to put the doors and drawer fronts on, why would you use solid top and center panel.
We're sharing our process. If it helps someone great. If your process is better, that's great to. Keep doing your thing man. Appreciate you watching.
How to build a cabinet: Have a CNC machine and a full woodshop
We don't have a CNC
They got you there Brandon! 🤣
This should be called “How to assemble a computer cut cabinet “ 😀😀😀😀
😀
Surprised to see roll type edge banding going into the sort of high end jobs that you do. Would have expected solid wood, ⅛" or thicker.