You are Right ---- If at ALL possible --- we'll try to save our original parts --- One is so much better if you can --- Thank You for the Video ------- Rodey
This is the perfect approach; why throw away OEM parts that can be refurbished when the cost and quality of aftermarket parts is no match? It’s a no brainer!
The thing that concerns me with the heat exchangers on VW air-cooled exhausts is not the outer casing but the inner core that will have been eaten away with corrosive exhaust gases for at least 50 years for an OE unit. I don't see why you should use high temp paint on the casing as it doesn't get that hot (if it did then the hot air into the cabin would be unbearable. I would have concentrated on the durability of the paint rather than the temperature resistance. Many enamel/epoxy paints have a reasonable higher temperature tolerance that would cope with the heat.
Hello Clive thank you for commenting on my channel. Regarding your comments and concerns. The restoration process I did for my heater Boxes won't effect the primary functionality of the heater boxes. There are multiple way to inspect or test the heater cores; from the most simple one ... like a visual inspection and other perform with the proper tools that perhaps the regular DIY mechanics may not have, which in that case I would suggest if you didn't to have them inspect by a certified mechanic. Regarding your comment about the concerns overheating the cabin ... The heater boxes are equipped with internal flappers that direct the heated air either out underneath the car or forward to the passenger compartment. These flappers are controlled by a cable attached to right-hand control lever located between the front seats. The control cable divides in two and attaches to the two lever arm assemblies, one on each of the two heater boxes. When the lever in the cabin is raised, the cable is pulled and the flappers in each of the heater boxes are opened. This directs the warm air through a corrugated tube on the front of each of the heater boxes and into a heated air channel that runs along each side of the car. Air from this channel branches off to heater vents under the rear seats, to footwell vents in the front footwells, and to the windshield via hoses in the A-pillars to provide defrosting. The destination of the warm air flow is controlled by the left control lever between the front seats. Also VW bugs are very popular for having much insulation so pretty sure it would take lots of heat flow to cook one inside the car ... lol...Kidding aside ... Even if I lived in a very hot environment like Arizona I would always keep my heating system in my VW; because It is important to realize that the heater boxes are an integral part of the cooling system for the engine; not only to keep you warm inside the car. Even if you never want heat in your car, it is important to keep the system intact to prevent the engine from running hot and possibly warping the heads.
@@juniorclassicvwbugs924 The testing of the cores of the heat exchangers is all carried out to the inside of the exhaust tubes, the point about the condition of the aluminium heat exchanger cores is that they are subject to corrosion from the inside from the exhaust gases as well as outside from the air blown over them. This has all to be appreciated as the parts are now probably more than 50 years old. Aluminium will corrode/erode especially with a constant air stream blowing over it for such a lengthy period. Besides, the testing only confirms whether the heater core is compromised, not how long it will maintain sound. I am fully aware as to the operation of the air-cooled heater system, which can be highly effective in good condition. However, my point was that the air from the heat exchanger boxes, whether being dumped or distributed to the interior cannot be greater than say, 85degC (185degF) because even at that temperature the heat would braze your ankles and face, therefore, as this will be the operating temp of the heat exchanger boxes most good quality paints will cope with it (most are rated up to or beyond 120degC (250degF). The heat exchangers are actually detrimental to the performance of the engine because they cool and therefore slow the exhaust gases from cylinders #1 and #3, its a small effect but it certainly isn't beneficial. On my '03 I am building a dry sump motor, which will run J tubes because I have not seen any heat exchangers that are not either highly restrictive and/or low heating performance (I actually designed my own heat exchangers at one point). My essential heating will be created by using the scavenge oil to the oil tank to flow through a heater core, much in the same way as a water cooled car, with admittedly a new cabin air distribution system. The oil temperature ought to be at around 100degC (212degF) when at operating temperature so will provide good heat output that will be modulated by blending with the incoming fresh air through the heater box.
Hey brother not sure what are your intentions in the comments towards my video. Like I said in the video I do what I feel works best for me and you do you; right. I agree that aluminum does corroe; however in my experience working many engineering projects over 23 years; Aluminum oxide is different. It is actually quite hard and serves as a protective coating around the underlying aluminum. It doesn’t flake off like iron oxide and therefore, once the outer layer of aluminum “rusts” the process stops and the aluminum is protected. Couple that with the fact that it is a grayish color very similar to aluminum, and you may never even notice your aluminum’s rust. Good luck with your design, I really wish you the best. Again you do what works for you best. I do different things for different reasons and I am happy with those decisions. Have a superb day.
You are Right ---- If at ALL possible --- we'll try to save our original parts --- One is so much better if you can --- Thank You for the Video ------- Rodey
This is the perfect approach; why throw away OEM parts that can be refurbished when the cost and quality of aftermarket parts is no match? It’s a no brainer!
Enjoyed the video. I hope mine turnout that nice. ✌
Those heater boxes turned out great 👍
Excelente trabajo me gusta mucho como se ven terminados. Excellent work I really like how they look finished.
The thing that concerns me with the heat exchangers on VW air-cooled exhausts is not the outer casing but the inner core that will have been eaten away with corrosive exhaust gases for at least 50 years for an OE unit.
I don't see why you should use high temp paint on the casing as it doesn't get that hot (if it did then the hot air into the cabin would be unbearable. I would have concentrated on the durability of the paint rather than the temperature resistance. Many enamel/epoxy paints have a reasonable higher temperature tolerance that would cope with the heat.
Hello Clive thank you for commenting on my channel. Regarding your comments and concerns. The restoration process I did for my heater Boxes won't effect the primary functionality of the heater boxes. There are multiple way to inspect or test the heater cores; from the most simple one ... like a visual inspection and other perform with the proper tools that perhaps the regular DIY mechanics may not have, which in that case I would suggest if you didn't to have them inspect by a certified mechanic. Regarding your comment about the concerns overheating the cabin ... The heater boxes are equipped with internal flappers that direct the heated air either out underneath the car or forward to the passenger compartment. These flappers are controlled by a cable attached to right-hand control lever located between the front seats. The control cable divides in two and attaches to the two lever arm assemblies, one on each of the two heater boxes. When the lever in the cabin is raised, the cable is pulled and the flappers in each of the heater boxes are opened. This directs the warm air through a corrugated tube on the front of each of the heater boxes and into a heated air channel that runs along each side of the car. Air from this channel branches off to heater vents under the rear seats, to footwell vents in the front footwells, and to the windshield via hoses in the A-pillars to provide defrosting. The destination of the warm air flow is controlled by the left control lever between the front seats. Also VW bugs are very popular for having much insulation so pretty sure it would take lots of heat flow to cook one inside the car ... lol...Kidding aside ... Even if I lived in a very hot environment like Arizona I would always keep my heating system in my VW; because It is important to realize that the heater boxes are an integral part of the cooling system for the engine; not only to keep you warm inside the car. Even if you never want heat in your car, it is important to keep the system intact to prevent the engine from running hot and possibly warping the heads.
@@juniorclassicvwbugs924 The testing of the cores of the heat exchangers is all carried out to the inside of the exhaust tubes, the point about the condition of the aluminium heat exchanger cores is that they are subject to corrosion from the inside from the exhaust gases as well as outside from the air blown over them. This has all to be appreciated as the parts are now probably more than 50 years old. Aluminium will corrode/erode especially with a constant air stream blowing over it for such a lengthy period. Besides, the testing only confirms whether the heater core is compromised, not how long it will maintain sound.
I am fully aware as to the operation of the air-cooled heater system, which can be highly effective in good condition. However, my point was that the air from the heat exchanger boxes, whether being dumped or distributed to the interior cannot be greater than say, 85degC (185degF) because even at that temperature the heat would braze your ankles and face, therefore, as this will be the operating temp of the heat exchanger boxes most good quality paints will cope with it (most are rated up to or beyond 120degC (250degF). The heat exchangers are actually detrimental to the performance of the engine because they cool and therefore slow the exhaust gases from cylinders #1 and #3, its a small effect but it certainly isn't beneficial.
On my '03 I am building a dry sump motor, which will run J tubes because I have not seen any heat exchangers that are not either highly restrictive and/or low heating performance (I actually designed my own heat exchangers at one point). My essential heating will be created by using the scavenge oil to the oil tank to flow through a heater core, much in the same way as a water cooled car, with admittedly a new cabin air distribution system. The oil temperature ought to be at around 100degC (212degF) when at operating temperature so will provide good heat output that will be modulated by blending with the incoming fresh air through the heater box.
Hey brother not sure what are your intentions in the comments towards my video. Like I said in the video I do what I feel works best for me and you do you; right. I agree that aluminum does corroe; however in my experience working many engineering projects over 23 years; Aluminum oxide is different. It is actually quite hard and serves as a protective coating around the underlying aluminum. It doesn’t flake off like iron oxide and therefore, once the outer layer of aluminum “rusts” the process stops and the aluminum is protected. Couple that with the fact that it is a grayish color very similar to aluminum, and you may never even notice your aluminum’s rust. Good luck with your design, I really wish you the best. Again you do what works for you best. I do different things for different reasons and I am happy with those decisions. Have a superb day.