Just got a "new to me" 1988 Evinrude 9.9 that came (free) with a 1448 jon boat I bought. Once I get the jon boat cleaned, sealed up, and decked I'll be trying to get the 9.9 up and running. I'm a outboard rookie but worked on motorcycle engines as a kid, 2 and 4 stroke, so I'm not totally lost. I've saved your videos and I know they will make my job a heck of a lot easier. Thank you for taking the time to create these hands on lessons.
I have to say thanks I have a seahorse 15 HP that was supposedly serviced by a professional but after your videos I found that they did nothing. I can’t get boat to go over 6 miles an hour. Further investigation on my part per your videos I found spark plugs loose and not tight at all. Found slippage coming out both plugs on top of that gap was 24 instead of 40. Only thing right was plug required for motor. I did my own blend of sea foam to 2 gallons of fuel. I added 12 ounces to the fuel and ran the motor for 3 1/2 hours. It shook and skipped and wined for about 30 minutes. When it was all said and done the motor purr’s like a kitten now and the idile mixtiure switch now works great. Can’t wait to get it back to the lake to try it out. Thanks again
When mounting the foil, mount the screw truss heads on the bottom with the lock nuts on top the foil. With the nuts on bottom there is the probability of cavitation as a low pressure point will occur on the downstream side of the nut. You would never see evidence on the stainless prop, but it would show as pocks in the paint and metal on a painted aluminum prop. As speed increases there comes a loss of performance and cavitation vibration will be transferred throughout the unit, especially in larger, faster rigs.
Great video! My '91 Evinrude 9.9 isn't running great. Idles decent but slow to power up and is running super rich. Things to do: 1. set the roller as you described 2: check the gap on the plugs. Oh, and sweet prop!!!
Great job on the outboard and the video. Scroll to 11:54 and look at the bolts on the fin. Fronts and backs on the same sides. Just think of all the extra drag...you'll be driving in circles! lol ;)
I love the smell of 2 cycle in the morning!! Memories... My Dad was a sales manager for Johnson in the 50"s 60"s, and 70's. I always had 9.9"s and 15 h.p's to run as a kid.
I've been looking for a video like this for about a year and this morning your first video popped up thanks. I've had a carb kit sitting for a year and wondered about all this other stuff thanks!
Great job, Michael! I' recently got a 6HP Johnson (tuned down from 7.5HP) from 1986 that needs all the work you showed on this motor. I'm sure your video will help me a lot, thanks and greets from Germany!
Michael I suggest that if you put a knot called a 'cow hitch' with a half hitch below it in the pull cord around the dowel pin in the pull start handle, the pin should sit flatter in the slot with the cord best aligned to the hole through the handle.
Great videos! I have an '89 15hp Johnson on a 14' aluminum 1970's Lund boat. It's my first boat and motor. Your information is well received and appreciated. Super helpful. Thank you!
I have no earthly idea how i found your channel but after watching these 2 episodes i subscribed. great content although I am not a boat guy but your passion for these old motors shows, Thanks.
Couldn't find the video where you asked for comments on what we thought problem with 9.9 dying was, so here I am. Something I thought of and someone else brought up, didn't see you adjust drop, or float level. You leveled it, but I bet if you reset the drop it may solve your problem. Worth a free try before you buy a new carb.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina I suggested you buy a new carburetor since you had already bought and tried two rebuild kits. Something that someone else mentioned and I caught was the fact that you didn't set the float drop. You made sure it was level, but you also need to set the drop. his could be the reason your engine is flooding and leaking fuel.
Great video. Flirting with the idea of buying this exact model off of Facebook marketplace and using it as a learning tool to become more handy with small outboards. Just need to find the confidence to pull the trigger on it. 😂
Great video(s). Lots of good information. Your detailed explanations of certain processes were great, it enabled a "thick headed" person such as myself, to understand. Thank you sir.
Michael, You are such a bad influence on me. ;-) I am going to pick up a pristine 9.9 short shaft form my dad. I was thinking of ways to install it on my 13' Sylvan Alaskan for fishing this spring. I was considering a plate that setback the outboard or a jack plate. Now I will be looking into making it into a 20" shaft. Thank you for the helpful information!
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Too funny. I have just spent the last hour looking for a "cheap" within 200 miles 15HP Johnson or Evinrude engine. Would be perfect if it was a seize 15HP long shaft. No luck
Update: the engine that my dad has is only 6Hp Johnson short shaft. It stinks to be dyslexic. There go all my plans to to make a 15hp long shaft for under $600.
I've been looking for a video just like this one pertaining to the same motor I'm working on. This video gave me hope to keep the motor instead of trading it in for a honda. Thank you so much.
Careful with the Hydrafoil. I had one that cracked at the bolts. It was rated for my 115 Yamaha. I was not impressed with its performance either Mine was a clamp on style. It cracked at the mounting clamp bolts. If it had been just a bit more it would have broke completely off which could have hit the prop and been catastrophic. The motor wasn't designed for that kind of point load on that plate. I have seen more than one where that hole in the cavitation plate caused a large chunk to break off. Also puts more leverage if you hit floating debris and can cause damage that way. If you need to trim nothing beats electo-hydraulic trim tabs. That the company did not in any way stand behind its products was also disappointing to say the least. That Johnrude is a good little motor. I have had more than one and am currently running one from 87. I have been boating since the very early fifties both professionally and recreationally. Been working on them from the beginning. Salt water makes everything much more difficult. Take care. Doug
Just picked up an '85 ish 9.9 long shaft. Seemed rougher than it was, pulled it out of an old shed at a yard sale, cleaned up well.. Did I mention that three mice jumped out of it when I pulled the cover off!! :0 Seems they were nice to it, only some insulation chewed on some wires, which I will fix of course. Got it running well after some carb adjustments, and alot of freeing up and rehydrating of old grease. There is alot of grease on almost everything that pivots, and the plugs were BRAND new, didn't look the engine had even ran with them in.. odd... I'm noticing that the coolant water coming out the pee hole at idle is much less strong of a stream throttled up, guess I might as well replace the pump.. But you definitely got me thinking about all those upgrades you put on yours, I'm considering finding a nice 15horse carb.. BTW, I'm using it on a 80's Grumman 12' fishermn.. I think this 9.9 should move me along pretty good huh..:D. I also don't really want to convert it to short shaft, so I just cut out a new transom and spaced up the difference, the one that came on the boat was trash anyways..
I also forgot to ask, what did you get for the water pump replacement kit? Do you happen to have a part number? Just trying to decide if the cheap and expensive kits are all the same..
Great video, I purchased a Johnson 76, 9.9. Great motor, but seems to stall when coming down to an idle after being wide open. It would be great if you'd talk about lean/rich adjustment. I've read the "sneezing" means it's too lean. Great video thanks for putting all the time into it!
I don't know why, but when you put it into gear and revved it up, I swear I could smell 2-stroke exhaust. Must be PTSD when we were fishing and you were running 50:1 on that first tank and the exhaust made my lips tingle, lol. Good memories
I did not read through the comments but one thing that needs to be replaced is the Fuel pump diaphragm as they get brittle with age and will strand you.
Spark plug gap is .030 never been 40. If line notch up with bolt starter can use socket instead of wrench. Unless replacing rope can just loosen bolt while hold together lift up put 3/8 wing nut off battery and lay to side without removing handle and having to rewind. When installing move bolt up to about bottom starter reinstall lining up tab using deep well socket turn by hand till snug finish tighten. Only difference 9.9 and at was carb and more rpm exhaust tube same you can ck part numbers, specs on rpm. When cleaning carb on these make sure hole is open on nozzle hose go on on center piece hardly see through when clean. That's your idle circuit. After all that never did see where you changed ck gear oil unless I missed.
Those solas props are really excellent. Even their aluminum props are pretty good as they are squeeze casted so they have a much more dense cross section compared to the original props. I prefer to run the solas aluminum props so that the damage to the engine is much less as compared to having a stainless prop hit debris or rocks in d water.
Great videos, need more like these. I buy older user motors from time to time get them running if I can , right now picked up a 1975 evinrude 9.9 . I fine that the older motors are easier to work on the the newer ones with all the modern improvements. I just like the simple things. Thanks again.
This is a great video ,I have a 81' 15 hp Johnson short shaft motor. did pretty much everything you done here except the installing the 5" spacer for the long shaft. But......... there is one particular step that wasn't shown which I think is most important !! The float level wasn't adjusted, you just threw it on with out measuring the distance from the top of the bowl or where the bowl connects the carb, turn bowl upside down letting the float hang down. That measurement is crucial the inside part of the float to the top edge of the bowl is the measurement, (hope this makes sense) , I found out the hard way, I'll let you ponder that . It's not fun repeating your work lol
Not always to I get every detail in the video. I do and did check the float position on every small engine I have to do carb work on. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I’ve been working on a 9.9 with 6.0 reducer that I’m eliminating. Doing the water pump impeller as well. Mine was on a pontoon with remote steering, remote start/kill and electric start. I wondered if I could find out about battery hookup locations and starter switch hookups. Thanks, I actually was waiting for Part 2!
Thanks for the informative video. I just acquired a 9.9 Johnson & 14 ft Jon boat. I’m in the process of replacing the water pump on it. This was very helpful. I subscribe to the channel , looking forward to more information as it comes out “thank you. “
Hello from the Arizona desert! I have finished most of my retirement projects and thought I would teach myself how to fix outboards as a hobby. I grew up in Michigan where my Grandfather had a 5 hp Montgomery Ward outboard and taught me how to work on it. My Dad was a tool and die man at the local GM plant. He got a real deal on three 10 hp Chris Craft outboards. Supposedly the Chris Craft company infringed on the patents of Evinrude and and Johnson and got sued. They had to stop making outboards. I think this was around 1960. Dad made two good engines out of the three he bought. I had an 8' plywood hydroplane that we re skinned and repaired. He milled the head on that last Chris Craft engine and we put it on that hydroplane. It had so much compression that you could not start it with the pull rope. We would tow it to get the prop spinning and then we were able to start it. No gears on that puppy. It was always in gear. If you gave it full throttle from idle it would do a "wheelstand" in the water then take off like a shot! My uncle did that and bent the steering wheel back as the thing almost threw him out of the boat!. We did not have a speedometer but that sucker was FAST. Dad also made a brass and aluminum scoop (thanks GM!) and clamped it to the transom. When adjusted down into the water it would shoot a big rooster tail about 10' in the air and 20' behind the boat! I was the teenage terror of the Big Muskegon River! I have been looking at videos on how to work on out boards and like your channel best of all. By the look of your grass and trees you must live somewhere in the Midwest. Thanks for your good explanations and attention to detail!
I have two old Johnson’s I’ll be working on this year so your video holds a lot of interest for me! Never worked on a boat motor but thank God for RUclips....and Michael’s Backyard Marina!!!
Great Video! What do you need to adjust initially get the mark on the cam to line up with the middle of the roller before you tighten the roller until it just begins to open the throttle on the carb?
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina When i'm throttled all the way down on my tiller handle, the mark on my cam is still to the right of the roller. So to get them to line up, I'd have to throttle down even more but I'm bottom out on the tiller handle
Props are important. most of the time, at the local lake, you hear guys with props that are over pitch or under pitch, almost always. Pitch your prop for the rpm where you make peak HP. Peak Torque always comes in before peak HP so you get the torque to carry you up on to plane and the HP carries the RPM Im building an 86 bay liner that originally had the 2.4 volvo penta I/O its now got a 3.5l Honda V6 J35. its gonna hang around 6000rpm at WOT. peak torque and Vtec roll it at round 4,000 and it carries to around 240hp at 6000rpm. expecting nearly 90mph on the water as it did 45 with 2.4 volvo and 100hp It needs a prop that will start to load the engine at around 4,000rpm.
I have not had a boat for several years. Do they still make the 2 speed props for the larger Mercury I/O drives. They would start out at a low pitch then torque and water pressure would cause them to shift to a higher pitch. Example: Starts out as a 19 pitch then the blades would shift up to a 23. Expensive in the 1990s
Great video but I would cut those bolts off that go through the water Fin plume with bottom of nut, would look much better and probably help in efficiency some...
Love your stuff. Looking for info on where to find rebuilt, or parts for 1998 15 HP Johnson carb. Having trouble locating. I want to switch out my 9.9 carb. oh, just got my hydrofoil. Thanks for the tip.
GREAT VIDEOS. BUT YOU MENTIONED YOU HAD A VIDEO OF THE BASIC TOOLS YOU CARRY WHEN OUT IN THE WATER WHAT ARE THOSE TOOLS PLEASE AND THANK YOU ( I HAVE THE EXACT SAME MOTOR 92 9.9 JOHNSON
I like your video for the good information. You do get a bit long winded on some simple things like the pull start knot, and then glossed over and fast forwarded on the carb assembly. I like videos that get to the point in 20 min or less. Thanks for good info.
I've got the same motor but an Evinrude had a ? about the carb The throttle linkage on carb some have a shoulder bolt holding them on but this Johnson in the video and my Evinrude have a plastic "pin" holding them on my ? is how do you get it out? I want to replace the linkage and roller on mine but cant seem to figure how to remove the pin???? Your videos are a great way to see before you do the work which makes it nice to know some of the problems to expect!!! Keep them coming!! Thanks Dave
Great video my motor will not start with the chock. What should I look for when I clean the carb. I have to shoot starting fluid and it starts right up THANKS
I've been looking for a video on how to replace the pull cord. If you could do a video on that that'd be great. Otherwise any suggestions? Looks like you have to take the flywheel off to get to the pull start, but based on your first video it looks like you only have to take off the starter?
Awesome vids, so helpful thanks! The manual I have says back the low idle needle 2.5 turns from fully seated with this same carb but it doesn’t feel right. I noticed you back yours out 2 turns. Anyone know the correct starting position for this needle?
I have an 89’ 15 hip Johnson like yours. It runs really good. Really would be lost without it. My question is as follows. The prop,which is stock, that I have on it is a 9 1/2 x 10. To replace it I can only find the 9.25 x 10s. Is that stainless Solas prop a 9.25 x 10? Could you give me the model number for it? Thanks pal. Joe
How's she goin'? Very nice job on getting this Johnson back in shape!!! Nice tips on reassembly of the lower end. She should work graet now!!! Take care!!
anyone catch putting the top on the carb forgot the linkage and had to remove & re-do. I dont think s/s prop will make a difference on a 15 at all. Except if it was a super light boat that would go fast. Hit bottom with alum and bend a prop, hit bottom with s/s and break gears. Sounds like it bogs a little when throttling up. Seems strange the you adjusted the rod all the way into the ball fitting. I would think the setting would be somewhere around the middle so i could be tweaked a little in either direction. Looking forward to tests with props and foil. My guess is, well, we will wait & see.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Noting wrong, glad you left it in. We all do it and your time from disassembly to reassembly was days, for me it was few minutes watching a video.
Love the video and good info. I have the same wing on my Yamaha 60 on my Polar 18 ft tunnel hull skiff. Couple it with the trim tabs really helped me get up fast in shallow water. New sub also. Now if you will get a little more grease on the shirt......lol
Great pair of videos with sufficient detail. I happen to have the same motor which I stopped using due to starting difficulties. Do you have a list of the parts and source used for the carb and water pump parts.
The 15 Hp carb swap upgrade on a 9.9 Hp also requires replacing the 9.9 propeller, with the 15 Hp pitch propeller. The engine will over speed at wide open throttle if the 9.9 Hp propeller is used with the 15 Hp carb upgrade.
In 1985 there was a TSB sent to Authorized OMC Dealers regarding fuel/oil ratio and spark plugs. That TSB was sent out with every new model year set of manuals until 1990. QL77JC4 is the right plug for the 9.9/15 and .30 is the gap. The outside of the water pump cup and the inside of the housing gets a coat of J/E Gasket Compound, light coat of Triple Guard Grease inside the cup. The wear plate gets a coat of gasket compound between itself and the gear case. The mating surface of the water pump housing to the wear plate and both mating surfaces of the lower unit to the midsection get a bead of J/E Adhesive "M." Drive shaft splines get coated in molly lube not grease. Being and OMC/BRP service tech this video made me cringe when I saw the factory manual being waved around and heard "Double Check someone else's work" only to see a few minutes later the carburetor was already done with a OEM kit and then pulled apart to have an aftermarket kit installed and the manual wasn't read to understand the use of sealants and proper assembly. After 44 years as a master certified J/E mechanic when a customer walks in and says "The guy on RUclips said...." I know I'm in for a real treat.
hello from the sunny Ozarks!! thanks for ur precious time and profitable info. whats your take on bronze props in relations to stainless and allunaium . my 40 years experience no doubt stainless has more power and the hydrofoil fin gets it on plane quicker!! I didn't see a fuel filter. I use a line cutter on my prop shaft to help deter fishing lines. im constantly removing my prop to check for prop seal leaks. I have a 30hp Evinrude 1966 model and still running smooth just the usual maintance. tight lines and cheers!!
Mate I need your help I have the same motor but I went to change the impella easy all done, went to put the leg back on and every time I push it flush it clicks the shift lever into natural ?? I had it forward and the shaft is down ?? Please help
The reason a 15 horsepower is pretending to be a 9.9 is a common thing. many small ponds and speed restricted lakes will not allow anything more than 10 horsepower. This is why the 9.9 exists. People get new decals for their 15 and re-label it a 9.9.
Mike, I have an old 80’s 9.9 Johnson that has very little power. What could be the possible causes? Would you be interested in working on my Johnson outboard?
I wish you had V6 videos. Have an 87 Suzuki DT150, just cannot get it running right. Mechanics I've had rework the carbs, get it running, but it seems too rich. I work on riding lawnmower carbs, 2 cyl u can deal with. A 6 with synced linkage, etc, I don't have a lot of confidence to do it right.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina has 3 dual throat carbs i believe. they aren't any more difficult than what you did! but he needs to get the FACTORY service manual and a dva meter to figure out whats going on.
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Just got a "new to me" 1988 Evinrude 9.9 that came (free) with a 1448 jon boat I bought. Once I get the jon boat cleaned, sealed up, and decked I'll be trying to get the 9.9 up and running. I'm a outboard rookie but worked on motorcycle engines as a kid, 2 and 4 stroke, so I'm not totally lost. I've saved your videos and I know they will make my job a heck of a lot easier. Thank you for taking the time to create these hands on lessons.
I have to say thanks I have a seahorse 15 HP that was supposedly serviced by a professional but after your videos I found that they did nothing. I can’t get boat to go over 6 miles an hour. Further investigation on my part per your videos I found spark plugs loose and not tight at all. Found slippage coming out both plugs on top of that gap was 24 instead of 40. Only thing right was plug required for motor. I did my own blend of sea foam to 2 gallons of fuel. I added 12 ounces to the fuel and ran the motor for 3 1/2 hours. It shook and skipped and wined for about 30 minutes. When it was all said and done the motor purr’s like a kitten now and the idile mixtiure switch now works great. Can’t wait to get it back to the lake to try it out. Thanks again
Found sipping that is
When mounting the foil, mount the screw truss heads on the bottom with the lock nuts on top the foil. With the nuts on bottom there is the probability of cavitation as a low pressure point will occur on the downstream side of the nut. You would never see evidence on the stainless prop, but it would show as pocks in the paint and metal on a painted aluminum prop. As speed increases there comes a loss of performance and cavitation vibration will be transferred throughout the unit, especially in larger, faster rigs.
Great video! My '91 Evinrude 9.9 isn't running great. Idles decent but slow to power up and is running super rich. Things to do: 1. set the roller as you described 2: check the gap on the plugs. Oh, and sweet prop!!!
Thanks for sharing
Great job on the outboard and the video.
Scroll to 11:54 and look at the bolts on the fin. Fronts and backs on the same sides. Just think of all the extra drag...you'll be driving in circles! lol ;)
I love the smell of 2 cycle in the morning!! Memories...
My Dad was a sales manager for Johnson in the 50"s 60"s, and 70's. I always had 9.9"s and 15 h.p's to run as a kid.
I totally agree Petec! I also loved the Mercury's
I've been looking for a video like this for about a year and this morning your first video popped up thanks. I've had a carb kit sitting for a year and wondered about all this other stuff thanks!
Great job, Michael! I' recently got a 6HP Johnson (tuned down from 7.5HP) from 1986 that needs all the work you showed on this motor. I'm sure your video will help me a lot, thanks and greets from Germany!
That is awesome!
Thanks Michael, I quite enjoyed your videos and it’s great to hear your encouragement of people to get out and have a go. All the best mate
Thanks 👍
Love this video. Saved me from thowing my 75 Evinrude away. Now it purrs like a kitten. Thanks very much.
Glad it helped
Michael I suggest that if you put a knot called a 'cow hitch' with a half hitch below it in the pull cord around the dowel pin in the pull start handle, the pin should sit flatter in the slot with the cord best aligned to the hole through the handle.
H
Great two videos. Wonderful to see a man who knows what he's doing. I learned a lot. Thanks times two.
Thanks for watching!
Great videos! I have an '89 15hp Johnson on a 14' aluminum 1970's Lund boat. It's my first boat and motor. Your information is well received and appreciated. Super helpful. Thank you!
Glad to help
I have no earthly idea how i found your channel but after watching these 2 episodes i subscribed. great content although I am not a boat guy but your passion for these old motors shows, Thanks.
Awesome, thank you! Welcome aboard. Hopefully I can keep you entertained.
Couldn't find the video where you asked for comments on what we thought problem with 9.9 dying was, so here I am. Something I thought of and someone else brought up, didn't see you adjust drop, or float level. You leveled it, but I bet if you reset the drop it may solve your problem. Worth a free try before you buy a new carb.
here is the video. Drop your comment there.
ruclips.net/video/whuVJDjut-Y/видео.html
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina I suggested you buy a new carburetor since you had already bought and tried two rebuild kits. Something that someone else mentioned and I caught was the fact that you didn't set the float drop. You made sure it was level, but you also need to set the drop. his could be the reason your engine is flooding and leaking fuel.
Really enjoyed the fix-up of the 9.9 , am new to your channel I enjoyed your approach to the project. Thanks for posting the video.
Awesome, thank you!
Great video. Flirting with the idea of buying this exact model off of Facebook marketplace and using it as a learning tool to become more handy with small outboards. Just need to find the confidence to pull the trigger on it. 😂
Great video(s). Lots of good information. Your detailed explanations of certain processes were great, it enabled a "thick headed" person such as myself, to understand.
Thank you sir.
Awesome, thank you!
Michael, You are such a bad influence on me. ;-) I am going to pick up a pristine 9.9 short shaft form my dad. I was thinking of ways to install it on my 13' Sylvan Alaskan for fishing this spring. I was considering a plate that setback the outboard or a jack plate. Now I will be looking into making it into a 20" shaft. Thank you for the helpful information!
Then I will have to look for a 15 HP carb that won't break the bank.
Sometimes it's good to be bad, Thanks for watching and commenting.
They are hard to find without a motor attached to them.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Too funny. I have just spent the last hour looking for a "cheap" within 200 miles 15HP Johnson or Evinrude engine. Would be perfect if it was a seize 15HP long shaft. No luck
Update: the engine that my dad has is only 6Hp Johnson short shaft. It stinks to be dyslexic. There go all my plans to to make a 15hp long shaft for under $600.
I've been looking for a video just like this one pertaining to the same motor I'm working on. This video gave me hope to keep the motor instead of trading it in for a honda. Thank you so much.
Jasper Buenavista tut4
Totally thorough and amazing. Great job. big help.
Glad it helped!
Careful with the Hydrafoil. I had one that cracked at the bolts. It was rated for my 115 Yamaha. I was not impressed with its performance either Mine was a clamp on style. It cracked at the mounting clamp bolts. If it had been just a bit more it would have broke completely off which could have hit the prop and been catastrophic. The motor wasn't designed for that kind of point load on that plate. I have seen more than one where that hole in the cavitation plate caused a large chunk to break off. Also puts more leverage if you hit floating debris and can cause damage that way. If you need to trim nothing beats electo-hydraulic trim tabs. That the company did not in any way stand behind its products was also disappointing to say the least. That Johnrude is a good little motor. I have had more than one and am currently running one from 87. I have been boating since the very early fifties both professionally and recreationally. Been working on them from the beginning. Salt water makes everything much more difficult. Take care. Doug
Just picked up an '85 ish 9.9 long shaft. Seemed rougher than it was, pulled it out of an old shed at a yard sale, cleaned up well.. Did I mention that three mice jumped out of it when I pulled the cover off!! :0 Seems they were nice to it, only some insulation chewed on some wires, which I will fix of course. Got it running well after some carb adjustments, and alot of freeing up and rehydrating of old grease. There is alot of grease on almost everything that pivots, and the plugs were BRAND new, didn't look the engine had even ran with them in.. odd... I'm noticing that the coolant water coming out the pee hole at idle is much less strong of a stream throttled up, guess I might as well replace the pump.. But you definitely got me thinking about all those upgrades you put on yours, I'm considering finding a nice 15horse carb.. BTW, I'm using it on a 80's Grumman 12' fishermn.. I think this 9.9 should move me along pretty good huh..:D. I also don't really want to convert it to short shaft, so I just cut out a new transom and spaced up the difference, the one that came on the boat was trash anyways..
I also forgot to ask, what did you get for the water pump replacement kit? Do you happen to have a part number? Just trying to decide if the cheap and expensive kits are all the same..
Great video, I purchased a Johnson 76, 9.9. Great motor, but seems to stall when coming down to an idle after being wide open. It would be great if you'd talk about lean/rich adjustment. I've read the "sneezing" means it's too lean. Great video thanks for putting all the time into it!
I don't know why, but when you put it into gear and revved it up, I swear I could smell 2-stroke exhaust. Must be PTSD when we were fishing and you were running 50:1 on that first tank and the exhaust made my lips tingle, lol. Good memories
Funny you should say that, I could smell it when I was editing the video. It an awesome smell.
The foil and Stainless steel prop are such a great help on my 20 HP !
Good to know! I don't have much experience with the smaller outboards with those features
I did not read through the comments but one thing that needs to be replaced is the Fuel pump diaphragm as they get brittle with age and will strand you.
for sure.
Good job Mike! Thank you for posting this video.
The aluminum prop will brake before it bends the propeller shaft
Spark plug gap is .030 never been 40. If line notch up with bolt starter can use socket instead of wrench. Unless replacing rope can just loosen bolt while hold together lift up put 3/8 wing nut off battery and lay to side without removing handle and having to rewind. When installing move bolt up to about bottom starter reinstall lining up tab using deep well socket turn by hand till snug finish tighten. Only difference 9.9 and at was carb and more rpm exhaust tube same you can ck part numbers, specs on rpm. When cleaning carb on these make sure hole is open on nozzle hose go on on center piece hardly see through when clean. That's your idle circuit. After all that never did see where you changed ck gear oil unless I missed.
yep gear oil got changed. thanks for the other info
Those solas props are really excellent. Even their aluminum props are pretty good as they are squeeze casted so they have a much more dense cross section compared to the original props. I prefer to run the solas aluminum props so that the damage to the engine is much less as compared to having a stainless prop hit debris or rocks in d water.
I would agree. If you are running rivers vs lakes the aluminum for sure
Great videos, need more like these. I buy older user motors from time to time get them running if I can , right now picked up a 1975 evinrude 9.9 . I fine that the older motors are easier to work on the the newer ones with all the modern improvements. I just like the simple things. Thanks again.
More to come! I like the old ones too.
This is a great video ,I have a 81' 15 hp Johnson short shaft motor. did pretty much everything you done here except the installing the 5" spacer for the long shaft. But......... there is one particular step that wasn't shown which I think is most important !! The float level wasn't adjusted, you just threw it on with out measuring the distance from the top of the bowl or where the bowl connects the carb, turn bowl upside down letting the float hang down. That measurement is crucial the inside part of the float to the top edge of the bowl is the measurement, (hope this makes sense) , I found out the hard way, I'll let you ponder that . It's not fun repeating your work lol
Not always to I get every detail in the video. I do and did check the float position on every small engine I have to do carb work on. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Very informative and helpful for me and my 9.9 Johnson
glad it helped. Thanks for watching
I’ve been working on a 9.9 with 6.0 reducer that I’m eliminating. Doing the water pump impeller as well. Mine was on a pontoon with remote steering, remote start/kill and electric start. I wondered if I could find out about battery hookup locations and starter switch hookups. Thanks, I actually was waiting for Part 2!
I'm currently not familiar with the electric start models. Check out marine engine.com
I run a 9.9 cover on my 15hp, so I can run it state lakes here in GA that have a limit of 9.9hp.
Naughty Bookoo I may have or not used a cowling from another engine myself.
For your I/O you should try a Shorrow prop. Better fuel economy.
So kool to see them old engines run again
I enjoy it so much, thanks for watching
My OCD would have me moving the hydrothingy rear starboard screw to the front port hole and vice versa and have the nuts on the topside.
Cheers Eric
It's long been changed out. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the informative video. I just acquired a 9.9 Johnson & 14 ft Jon boat. I’m in the process of replacing the water pump on it. This was very helpful. I subscribe to the channel , looking forward to more information as it comes out “thank you. “
Hello from the Arizona desert! I have finished most of my retirement projects and thought I would teach myself how to fix outboards as a hobby. I grew up in Michigan where my Grandfather had a 5 hp Montgomery Ward outboard and taught me how to work on it. My Dad was a tool and die man at the local GM plant. He got a real deal on three 10 hp Chris Craft outboards. Supposedly the Chris Craft company infringed on the patents of Evinrude and and Johnson and got sued. They had to stop making outboards. I think this was around 1960. Dad made two good engines out of the three he bought. I had an 8' plywood hydroplane that we re skinned and repaired. He milled the head on that last Chris Craft engine and we put it on that hydroplane. It had so much compression that you could not start it with the pull rope. We would tow it to get the prop spinning and then we were able to start it. No gears on that puppy. It was always in gear. If you gave it full throttle from idle it would do a "wheelstand" in the water then take off like a shot! My uncle did that and bent the steering wheel back as the thing almost threw him out of the boat!. We did not have a speedometer but that sucker was FAST. Dad also made a brass and aluminum scoop (thanks GM!) and clamped it to the transom. When adjusted down into the water it would shoot a big rooster tail about 10' in the air and 20' behind the boat! I was the teenage terror of the Big Muskegon River! I have been looking at videos on how to work on out boards and like your channel best of all. By the look of your grass and trees you must live somewhere in the Midwest. Thanks for your good explanations and attention to detail!
I have a Johnson 9.9 from 1989 and it runs great. Hopefully I won’t ever need to come back to watch these vids if it breaks...
I have two old Johnson’s I’ll be working on this year so your video holds a lot of interest for me! Never worked on a boat motor but thank God for RUclips....and Michael’s Backyard Marina!!!
You guys are the best. Thank you for your comments
Great vid, but I believe I would check compression before ordering parts.
What's life without whimsy
Great Video! What do you need to adjust initially get the mark on the cam to line up with the middle of the roller before you tighten the roller until it just begins to open the throttle on the carb?
Great tip!
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina No sorry, I'm asking you a question. How do you get the mark on the cam and the roller to line up initially?
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina When i'm throttled all the way down on my tiller handle, the mark on my cam is still to the right of the roller. So to get them to line up, I'd have to throttle down even more but I'm bottom out on the tiller handle
Props are important. most of the time, at the local lake, you hear guys with props that are over pitch or under pitch, almost always.
Pitch your prop for the rpm where you make peak HP.
Peak Torque always comes in before peak HP so you get the torque to carry you up on to plane and the HP carries the RPM
Im building an 86 bay liner that originally had the 2.4 volvo penta I/O its now got a 3.5l Honda V6 J35. its gonna hang around 6000rpm at WOT. peak torque and Vtec roll it at round 4,000 and it carries to around 240hp at 6000rpm.
expecting nearly 90mph on the water as it did 45 with 2.4 volvo and 100hp
It needs a prop that will start to load the engine at around 4,000rpm.
I have not had a boat for several years. Do they still make the 2 speed props for the larger Mercury I/O drives. They would start out at a low pitch then torque and water pressure would cause them to shift to a higher pitch. Example: Starts out as a 19 pitch then the blades would shift up to a 23. Expensive in the 1990s
Great video but I would cut those bolts off that go through the water Fin plume with bottom of nut, would look much better and probably help in efficiency some...
Good tip!
They are upside down
Good video!! The second shirt is awesome!!
Thanks!!
Thanks Mike for the great video brother and wonderful tips 😊
Love the videos! Can’t beat the older outboards . I have a 97 evinrude 9.9. Is it possible to put a 15 horse carb on it? Keep up the good videos.
Great job. the motor sounds fantastic..
Thanks 👍
Love your stuff. Looking for info on where to find rebuilt, or parts for 1998 15 HP Johnson carb. Having trouble locating. I want to switch out my 9.9 carb. oh, just got my hydrofoil. Thanks for the tip.
Marineengine.com for parts. Good luck finding a 15hp carb. they are hard to come by.
Wow thank you for the tip on installing the impeller they are a pain in the butt the other way
good work you should also replace the thermostat
GREAT VIDEOS. BUT YOU MENTIONED YOU HAD A VIDEO OF THE BASIC TOOLS YOU CARRY WHEN OUT IN THE WATER WHAT ARE THOSE TOOLS PLEASE AND THANK YOU ( I HAVE THE EXACT SAME MOTOR 92 9.9 JOHNSON
I too would be interested in a "toolkit" video.
I like your video for the good information. You do get a bit long winded on some simple things like the pull start knot, and then glossed over and fast forwarded on the carb assembly.
I like videos that get to the point in 20 min or less. Thanks for good info.
Thanks for the tips!
I've got the same motor but an Evinrude had a ? about the carb The throttle linkage on carb some have a shoulder bolt holding them on but this Johnson in the video and my Evinrude have a plastic "pin" holding them on my ? is how do you get it out? I want to replace the linkage and roller on mine but cant seem to figure how to remove the pin???? Your videos are a great way to see before you do the work which makes it nice to know some of the problems to expect!!! Keep them coming!! Thanks Dave
I haven't removed the pin and roller. Not sure it's serviceable if we are talking about the same part.
Great video my motor will not start with the chock. What should I look for when I clean the carb. I have to shoot starting fluid and it starts right up THANKS
Look for all passages to pass air freely through them and take note of the seal around the low speed mixture screw.
I've been looking for a video on how to replace the pull cord. If you could do a video on that that'd be great. Otherwise any suggestions? Looks like you have to take the flywheel off to get to the pull start, but based on your first video it looks like you only have to take off the starter?
check out this video ruclips.net/video/WZ_M1vIIXdE/видео.html
looking down on shaft would be counter clockwise for water pump impellase to seat correctly
you are soooo very wrong. Looking at the top of your flywheel it turns clock wise.
Awesome vids, so helpful thanks! The manual I have says back the low idle needle 2.5 turns from fully seated with this same carb but it doesn’t feel right. I noticed you back yours out 2 turns. Anyone know the correct starting position for this needle?
Typical starting point on most all small engines has been 1 1/2 turns then tune to run smooth.
I have an 89’ 15 hip Johnson like yours. It runs really good. Really would be lost without it. My question is as follows. The prop,which is stock, that I have on it is a 9 1/2 x 10. To replace it I can only find the 9.25 x 10s. Is that stainless Solas prop a 9.25 x 10? Could you give me the model number for it? Thanks pal. Joe
Thanks again great video
How's she goin'? Very nice job on getting this Johnson back in shape!!! Nice tips on reassembly of the lower end. She should work graet now!!! Take care!!
anyone catch putting the top on the carb forgot the linkage and had to remove & re-do. I dont think s/s prop will make a difference on a 15 at all. Except if it was a super light boat that would go fast. Hit bottom with alum and bend a prop, hit bottom with s/s and break gears. Sounds like it bogs a little when throttling up. Seems strange the you adjusted the rod all the way into the ball fitting. I would think the setting would be somewhere around the middle so i could be tweaked a little in either direction. Looking forward to tests with props and foil. My guess is, well, we will wait & see.
Good catch, like I been saying, I'm a rookie
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Noting wrong, glad you left it in. We all do it and your time from disassembly to reassembly was days, for me it was few minutes watching a video.
Good job Mike Question what is the gap for the spark plug?
.040 thousandths. Or 1mm.
That is correct
Thanks for the videos. At 10:20 why is the one bolt holding the fin on shorter than the rest?
that has been corrected. I forget why it was. I think the bolts was shorter but now they all match
Hello, can the engine have play up and down on the crankshaft?
Have you ever used seafoam run thru your motors?
Another awesome video!
Great series!!
So glad you enjoyed it. I will do my best to keep the content coming.
Thank you
You're welcome
I have a 1963 5.5 hp evinrude fisherman and was wondering if it would push a 15' kingfisher ?
Of course it will about 5 mph
Love the video and good info. I have the same wing on my Yamaha 60 on my Polar 18 ft tunnel hull skiff. Couple it with the trim tabs really helped me get up fast in shallow water. New sub also. Now if you will get a little more grease on the shirt......lol
Thank you, there are useful moments.
Glad you think so!
Boy I have same motor is it hard to change to 15 horse?
depends on the year. check out Leroy's ramblings on line. he tells the whole story.
Would the foil improve the keel over on a sailboat ?
I have no idea if it would. thanks for watching
You for got to explane how to check the fuel float drop gap !
will be doing it on the upcoming video.
Would like to see your new video with your upgrades on the lake.
Coming soon! Still working on the bolt it is going on
Great pair of videos with sufficient detail. I happen to have the same motor which I stopped using due to starting difficulties. Do you have a list of the parts and source used for the carb and water pump parts.
Marineengine.com
The 15 Hp carb swap upgrade on a 9.9 Hp also requires replacing the 9.9 propeller, with the 15 Hp pitch propeller. The engine will over speed at wide open throttle if the 9.9 Hp propeller is used with the 15 Hp carb upgrade.
Thanks for the tip
Did u put the bigger cab on this 9.9
In 1985 there was a TSB sent to Authorized OMC Dealers regarding fuel/oil ratio and spark plugs. That TSB was sent out with every new model year set of manuals until 1990. QL77JC4 is the right plug for the 9.9/15 and .30 is the gap. The outside of the water pump cup and the inside of the housing gets a coat of J/E Gasket Compound, light coat of Triple Guard Grease inside the cup. The wear plate gets a coat of gasket compound between itself and the gear case. The mating surface of the water pump housing to the wear plate and both mating surfaces of the lower unit to the midsection get a bead of J/E Adhesive "M." Drive shaft splines get coated in molly lube not grease. Being and OMC/BRP service tech this video made me cringe when I saw the factory manual being waved around and heard "Double Check someone else's work" only to see a few minutes later the carburetor was already done with a OEM kit and then pulled apart to have an aftermarket kit installed and the manual wasn't read to understand the use of sealants and proper assembly. After 44 years as a master certified J/E mechanic when a customer walks in and says "The guy on RUclips said...." I know I'm in for a real treat.
hello from the sunny Ozarks!! thanks for ur precious time and profitable info. whats your take on bronze props in relations to stainless and allunaium . my 40 years experience no doubt stainless has more power and the hydrofoil fin gets it on plane quicker!! I didn't see a fuel filter. I use a line cutter on my prop shaft to help deter fishing lines. im constantly removing my prop to check for prop seal leaks. I have a 30hp Evinrude 1966 model and still running smooth just the usual maintance. tight lines and cheers!!
Mate I need your help
I have the same motor but I went to change the impella easy all done, went to put the leg back on and every time I push it flush it clicks the shift lever into natural ??
I had it forward and the shaft is down ?? Please help
Did you spin the shift shaft at all when you had the gear box off? That could take it out of adjustment.
Where did you order the 15hp carburetor at. I have a 9.9 Johnson and would like to get the carburetor to make it a 15
Very nice vidio, but you never covered why no cooling water in the first place?
Hi,new subscriber from Sweden🇸🇪
Welcome!!
Michaels - is there a muffler - maybe after market for this engine? Fantastic video btw
I don't know of any aftermarket mufflers for these. Thanks for watching
The reason a 15 horsepower is pretending to be a 9.9 is a common thing. many small ponds and speed restricted lakes will not allow anything more than 10 horsepower. This is why the 9.9 exists. People get new decals for their 15 and re-label it a 9.9.
Way to show everyone how to do it great video! So where is the dealer that messed it up from?
Great videos
Glad you like them!
Mike, I have an old 80’s 9.9 Johnson that has very little power. What could be the possible causes? Would you be interested in working on my Johnson outboard?
I really learned a lot Thank You! Now I just need to find a Johnson motor to work on and a hawaiian shirt..
you figured out my secret.....the shirt!!!
I wish you had V6 videos. Have an 87 Suzuki DT150, just cannot get it running right. Mechanics I've had rework the carbs, get it running, but it seems too rich. I work on riding lawnmower carbs, 2 cyl u can deal with. A 6 with synced linkage, etc, I don't have a lot of confidence to do it right.
Six carbs would be a nightmare and out of my league
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina has 3 dual throat carbs i believe. they aren't any more difficult than what you did! but he needs to get the FACTORY service manual and a dva meter to figure out whats going on.
So again we catch you playing with your johnson.
!
I have to admit, it is fun, thanks for watching
Sweet project.👍
Thanks for the videos - very helpful - good job !!
Thanks for the great video! Love your detailed explanation.
Hi Do you known if ratio oil is 100/1 or 50/1 for your 9.9 HP
Thanks