Thank you so much for this video. I've watched a lot of video's on painting panels and yours is the best. Straightforward and to the point, step by step. Use this grit sandpaper, roll like this, how many coats, etc. and it worked and that's what counts. Thank you again.
I can't stress this enough! Use these rollers in this video! I used to think the high density foam rollers were the best but they are not. Get the short nap microfiber rollers. I also used benjamin moore advance paint. I added floetrol to the paint. Whatever texture you might get from the roller will smooth out with drying! My cabinets came out amazing! Zero roller or brush marks. People think I sprayed my cabinets but I didn't! Lol!
@@Avital4414 no I did not lay off with a brush after rolling. However your going to need to brush any detail you might have on the cabinet door. I have panel inserts that I had to brush. Mainly because a roller can't get into it. If you use a microfiber roller you will have tiny little stippleing right after lifting your roller. Don't worry it will level out just fine, it's nothing compared to the bubbles left from a foam roller. The key is don't fuss with it too much. If your not sure ....just practice on a scrap piece of wood.
@@Avital4414 I tried and I'm not a fan! When using the roller on the details it left too much paint and it pooled on me. I even tried with a roller after using it so it wasn't that wet with paint and was still weird. It just didn't leave the paint the way I wanted. Honestly though using a brush on the panel indents didn't leave any brush marks whatsoever. You have to run the brush out ! You can't just smudge the paint in the indents and expect a good finish. I just laid the paint out back and forth making sure there was no paint pooling etc and let it be. I don't think you'll have problems with this. Good luck. Let me know how it came out. There's nothing better than having your paint project come out awesome.
Hi Joey, thanks for the painting video! The sanding and tip to use your hands to quality check, sounds simple but I’ve always struggled with missed spots. I know pretty dumb but it made a huge difference on my latest project. Thanks from Indiana!
Excellent. I completely agree that a high quality paint finish can be achieved using this technique vs spraying. You are a true craftsman and thank you for sharing your process.
I used your technique to paint both sides of six flat doors in my house this past week -- they look terrific!! Thanks so much for the close-up shots and the product recommendations.
Using a roller to paint smooth surfaces is great for covering large areas quickly but, you'll always end up with an 'orange peel' finish. Whilst some people are more than happy with that, personally, it would drive me nuts! (I'm a decorator by the way...) I like a smooth finish, in which case you can still use a roller to cover the large areas quickly and evenly, you just need to then lay the paint off with a good quality brush, I use Axus Decor Pro Blue, (Purdy and Wooster are also very good brushes) for large, flush surface areas you can also use short pile paint pads, just wash them first with mild soapy water and rinse well to remove any loose filaments. Great video, as usual!
Hi Joey. You make it look too easy. Yes, I'm also a fan of the Monarch rollers (and their ADVANCE brushes) and Lustacryl. I've found another tip to improve the finish even further - add 10-15% of Floetrol to the paint especially in Summer. It increases the surface tension enough that the bump texture evens out even more. And I always use a tack cloth before the final coat.
A, those rollers are genius. 2, this is exactly what I've been looking for. We like the aesthetic of the Ikea bright white cabinets and bookshelves, but obviously I can make better quality stuff and custom.
Great video. This is where I struggle the most. I'm going to be making a surround for a fireplace soon with MDF. I will definitely use your method. Thanks
hi Joey i have always sprayed two pot on my stuff,very smooth finish.As you use waterbase why not spray with a airless sprayer and fine finish tip?enjoy your videos,keep up the good work.
That is a super finish! Like you I've always opted for roller finish as if can be touched up. I doubt that those prices are still valid, I'd be the first in line for either spray or roller - total bargain.
Just if anyone is interested... I roll on around 4 to 5 coats eggshell I don't care how rough it looks doing it super quick. 24 hours later I sand it smooth and finish with just a smidge of wax. Super smooth no orange peel better than most spray jobs....
i did my kitchen cabinets the similar way as described in your video over 2years ago now , i used cheap nap roller worked well still looks great thumbs up. ps: will look into Monarch Razorback.
... Just did my kitchen and bathroom cabinets, really wanted a sprayed finish, so setup in backyard a 10x10 pop up tent with tarps zip tied to the sides and ground, made for an instant spray booth, took like a half hour to setup.... I primed with BIN and then sprayed BM Advanced with a Graco X5 and 310fflp tip, sprayed each side flat with 24hrs between coats and transferred to garage to dry, worked great, came out like glass and no need to send them out etc....
I am just now planning on doing this exact same thing (kitchen only), using INSL-X STIX for primer vs. BIN. I am assuming you did some sanding after primer and after 1st coat of Advance. Did you have any trouble with Advanced running? I have heard you really have to stay on top of that. Thanks
@@bryanc2685 I laid the doors flat for each coat and 24hrs before flipping, so use lots of patience.., I did not have a problem with runs at all here, I think using the 310fflp tip helped and not over applying... Each coat was done in just a few quick steady passes with the sprayer and worked out great, only had challenge with vertical surfaces, like my valances I hung to spray, really have to be careful not to over apply here or will run.... I got a couple junk doors to practice on and get the feel first.... And yes, I first cleaned really well with krud kutter, sanded well before priming and lightly sanded between every coat and blew and wiped off... if painting oak, watch out you will get bleed through with Stix, that's why I used BIN as a shellac it blocks bleed through and sticks really well, there is a good video of Stix vs bin and bleed through with oak, so if doing oak, would not suggest Stix, 2 or 3 coats of BIN and your all set... Hope that helps and good luck, kitchen came out great but was a lot of work....
@@steveh3734 My cab's are lightly stained/varnished birch, so hopefully no bleedthrough issues pending. I haven't bought my sprayer yet, getting either a Graco Magnum x5 or a Wagner Control Pro 150 so I also will probably use the 310 tip. I will be brushing & rolling where spraying is not prudent. Yeah, it is a lot to plan and do, but I see more uses for my sprayer in the future (fence, deck, shutters at least). Thanks for your responses!
@@bryanc2685 good luck! I rolled the BIN, and sanded it flat, didn't want to run shellac through the sprayer and it turned out fine... And some pieces I could not remove inside I rolled and brushed, and worked out fine... Best tip with Advanced when rolling I found was put it on quick and leave it alone to self level, don't mess with it and will look great... Good luck!!
I can’t deny the results look pretty good, but I’m unclear WHY it works. Why would the subsequent top coats finish up smoother than the first one, when you’ve sanded the primer super smooth? Maybe the subsequent top coats can sit on the first ones without soaking in so have more time to spread out flat?
The close-up images were captured with just the right light at a good angle. We were able to see detail, especially with the white surfaces. Most videographers don't know how to successfully capture this. Nice work. Do you have any experience with this technique on melamine surfaced cabinets? My kitchen cabinet doors are white melamine covered MDF, and I hate how the white has yellowed. My boxes are birch plywood, and that painted surface is holding up beautifully. I can't spray paint in my apartment, but I don't want to roll if I can't achieve an ultra-smooth finish.
Greetings from beautiful NE Tennessee, sir. Just decided to try rolling on paint to cabinets. I very seldom use solid paint instead I use hand rubbed stains and oils. But working on a coffee stand and client wants it antique white. Looking for some guidance on rolling. Excellent advice here, thanks. I subbed.
Hey Joey...I recently discovered those Monach rollers in a store here in the UK and they are bloody brilliant. I've been using the foam version myself but as I was so impressed with the product I did buy a pack of the 'fluffy' roller heads too..... I'll have to give them a try.
Great tips - am gonna do that on my next MDF cabinet. I reckon using shitty primer is where I've been mostly stuffing up, so will give the 1-2-3 a go (and get some of those pop off rollers - genius!)
Did you caulk the panels and did you use a tack cloth…I am getting ready to do my bathroom…thanks for the tips…lots of work but the finished product is lovely.
Excelente producto los rodillos para pintar y en contenedor para guardarlo !!!! Como me gustaría que acá se venda ese producto y a un precio razonable. Muchas gracias por el vídeo.
Another great video, thanks Joey. Interesting that you use the BIN primer on bare timber, I only use it if I need to seal the surface or go over a previously painted surface of unknown origin plus it is an expensive paint here in Oz and I dare say in NZ. I do like the Resene quality though. Good set of tips, much appreciated.
Love your work Joey. Between coats, and after vacuuming up the sanding dust I use a slightly damp microfibre cloth to clean up the sanding dust. What do you do?
Also great timing . . . I'm rebuilding kitchen cabinet units after out tenant has moved . . . most of the damage was MDF, I think it was because of a bad paint job, definitely not enough paint, I will switch to plywood.
Hello, excellent video and your painting machine is fabulous, one question Is the paint solvent based like thinner or is it water based? Greetings from Mexico!
Joey, I want to change the cabinet knobs but the issue here is that I’m going to be left with 1 hole visible because the new knobs only require 1 screw. How can I cover the other hole? And also if I need to reposition the new knob, what kind if drill bit can I use in mdf? Should I drill the holes before or after painting?? Thanks!
That\s Ok for asemi=gloss paint, but do not like the orangepeel finish which could easily be eliminated by laying off afetr the roller with a soft bristled brush. That's what a professional would do.
Hi Joey, Great video! Do you have a tutorial on how you made those MDF doors? I would like to make similar ones in just a square shaker style without the decorative molding. Thank you
No I don't, but a simple shaker door is pretty straightforward. Use 6mm MDF and use a quarter in bit to rout the groove. Corners of the frame can be dowels or biscuits or dominoes or half lap joints etc
Hey Joey, the finish came out great but I am just wondering how you find the durability of the piant you use, I find here in Ireland that any paint I ever used by brush or roller is never near as durable as the paint jobs I send out to get sprayed, I'm fairly sure my spray guy mixes a hardner through the paint which I always find to be far surperior, I suppose its a bit like the effects you get mixing epoxy
Here in the states, the Govt is making it more and more difficult to use petroleum based paints. Global warming and all. I am a residential repainter (not new construction), and am unaware of any 'harder' that can be mixed with water based paints. Paint companies try to make durable latex (water based) paints. There are products that are pretty good. I use Sherwin Williams WBU (Water Based Urethane) for entry doors. It is superior to an ordinary exterior latex house paint. But nothing is as hard or durable as oil based or lacquer based paints. My guess is that when you send something out, they are using lacquer, the 'go-to' material for the furniture and cabinet industry. It gives impressive results with a very low cost sprayer. Smart and higher end builders here require lacquer on all interior doors and trim. Rollers leave stippling, brushes leave brush marks, and spraying latex can leave an inconsistent finish - higher sheen in some areas than others. So far as I know lacquer is perfect, and other than removing bugars and lint requires no sanding since the layers melt into one another.
They are phasing out oil based paints here as well, not sure about Lacquer though, I suppose it has to be done, hopefully the water based paints will get better and in time give some where the same results
DRitz78, Most cabinet shops are still spraying catlyzed varnish, like sherwin williams kemvar conversion varnish, when they can. It's hard to beat for kitchens and bath vanities. They make different formulas depending on location. But I think in the L.A. area, I'm not sure if it's allowed. Regular lacquer is a great finish, but really not that good for wet applications. The beauty of catlyzed products is that they dry quickly and very hard so you can sand in minutes. The sherwin williams WBU sounds good, I will have to try it.
gerard donoghue painter and decorater here in ireland I find using owtrol oil in with oil based finishes gives a better quality of finish while being harder wearing as a result
Do you use tack cloth after sanding? I have a whole kitchen full of (actual) wood cabinets that I was considering spraying. Maybe not now after viewing this.
Hi nice video i painted my door with Behr Premium paint and primer in one but the problem is it very easily get stain and if one hand is not clean touching it it stay i am just wondering if there is some clear finish to apply so the stain can be easily cleared thanks
I would reccomend a better/different paint. Also can depend on gloss level. Matt finish will be hard to clean versus gloss which is much easier to keep clean
Thank you so much for this video. I've watched a lot of video's on painting panels and yours is the best. Straightforward and to the point, step by step. Use this grit sandpaper, roll like this, how many coats, etc. and it worked and that's what counts. Thank you again.
I can't stress this enough! Use these rollers in this video! I used to think the high density foam rollers were the best but they are not. Get the short nap microfiber rollers. I also used benjamin moore advance paint. I added floetrol to the paint. Whatever texture you might get from the roller will smooth out with drying! My cabinets came out amazing! Zero roller or brush marks. People think I sprayed my cabinets but I didn't! Lol!
Did you lay off with a brush after rolling? I ask because I am unsure whether that just means you would have brush marks.
@@Avital4414 no I did not lay off with a brush after rolling. However your going to need to brush any detail you might have on the cabinet door. I have panel inserts that I had to brush. Mainly because a roller can't get into it. If you use a microfiber roller you will have tiny little stippleing right after lifting your roller. Don't worry it will level out just fine, it's nothing compared to the bubbles left from a foam roller. The key is don't fuss with it too much. If your not sure ....just practice on a scrap piece of wood.
@@number1pappy thanks!!
@@number1pappy I understand that some people roll those inlaid detail areas after they apply paint with the brush. Have you done that?
@@Avital4414 I tried and I'm not a fan! When using the roller on the details it left too much paint and it pooled on me. I even tried with a roller after using it so it wasn't that wet with paint and was still weird. It just didn't leave the paint the way I wanted. Honestly though using a brush on the panel indents didn't leave any brush marks whatsoever. You have to run the brush out ! You can't just smudge the paint in the indents and expect a good finish. I just laid the paint out back and forth making sure there was no paint pooling etc and let it be. I don't think you'll have problems with this. Good luck. Let me know how it came out. There's nothing better than having your paint project come out awesome.
Hi Joey, thanks for the painting video! The sanding and tip to use your hands to quality check, sounds simple but I’ve always struggled with missed spots. I know pretty dumb but it made a huge difference on my latest project. Thanks from Indiana!
Excellent. I completely agree that a high quality paint finish can be achieved using this technique vs spraying. You are a true craftsman and thank you for sharing your process.
I used your technique to paint both sides of six flat doors in my house this past week -- they look terrific!! Thanks so much for the close-up shots and the product recommendations.
Using a roller to paint smooth surfaces is great for covering large areas quickly but, you'll always end up with an 'orange peel' finish. Whilst some people are more than happy with that, personally, it would drive me nuts! (I'm a decorator by the way...) I like a smooth finish, in which case you can still use a roller to cover the large areas quickly and evenly, you just need to then lay the paint off with a good quality brush, I use Axus Decor Pro Blue, (Purdy and Wooster are also very good brushes) for large, flush surface areas you can also use short pile paint pads, just wash them first with mild soapy water and rinse well to remove any loose filaments. Great video, as usual!
Agree. The orange peel effect is pretty grim. Lay off the paint with a brush.
How do you prevent brush lines when laying off with a brush? Do you need to thin the paint, load the brush at all?
Hi Joey. You make it look too easy. Yes, I'm also a fan of the Monarch rollers (and their ADVANCE brushes) and Lustacryl. I've found another tip to improve the finish even further - add 10-15% of Floetrol to the paint especially in Summer. It increases the surface tension enough that the bump texture evens out even more. And I always use a tack cloth before the final coat.
Yes that Floetrol definitely helps smooth it out.
so does it work as if it was enamel and levels out the roller orange peel?
@@FourOneProductionz Yes - pretty much, and flows better when painting.
@@jagros4672 ok cool how does it compare with resenes brush additive have you tried it? Do you also paint doors down or standing?
)MO
Thanks Joey, just had a bloody disaster trying to spray cabinet doors and I'll definately give this a try, thanks again.
Perfectly put together video and perfectly timed, for me - I have MDF doors to paint this weekend! Thanks Joey :-)
Thanks Joey for the BLOODY tips! You are an awesome wood craft. Enjoy watching every one of your build and tips. I thank you!!!
A, those rollers are genius. 2, this is exactly what I've been looking for. We like the aesthetic of the Ikea bright white cabinets and bookshelves, but obviously I can make better quality stuff and custom.
Thanks for showing us your process-wonderful work you do👍.
Geez mate, perfect timing. Next project is white painted mdf .... always avoided because I'm crap at painting it. Cheers 🍺
Great tip Joey. I really appreciate the detail you add to your projects. Thanks for sharing
craftmanship !!! your an elite painter !!!!
Fantastic finish. I haven't seen those rollers and storage cups before, hopefully they're available in the UK.
homebase!
Beautiful finish. Thank you for sharing your process.
Loved the look of those rollers so did a search for them here in the UK and if anyone’s interested you can get the full range in Homebase stores.
Thanks for sharing, Would spraying give a better finish, yes, but is it worth it? NOOOO, your work looks fantastic !!!!
As always very relatable and clear. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us.
This video is so helpful to me now even after 2 years! Thanks so much for great info.
Best wood working channel on RUclips in my opinion! 👍👍🔨
Excellent video, I will start my cabinets with some helpful knowledge thanks to you. Thanks
It looks great. Thanks for the tips!
Where can I buy these mini rollers? I am in the US.
This is exactly what I needed to see. Thx!
Great video. This is where I struggle the most. I'm going to be making a surround for a fireplace soon with MDF. I will definitely use your method. Thanks
That is very helpful - thank you. Definitely want to run an experiment to see if I can get similar results.
😀😀😀 bello. Great work. Very good artisan 😊
hi Joey i have always sprayed two pot on my stuff,very smooth finish.As you use waterbase why not spray with a airless sprayer and fine finish tip?enjoy your videos,keep up the good work.
That is a super finish! Like you I've always opted for roller finish as if can be touched up. I doubt that those prices are still valid, I'd be the first in line for either spray or roller - total bargain.
Excellent. Thanks for the perspective on cost vs finish quality
Thanks for posting this. Now I need to find those rollers, that click mechanism was mind blowing....
Awesome, thanks for the tips! I'm a fan of the Lustacryl too
Thank you. I am going to give this a try.
Just if anyone is interested... I roll on around 4 to 5 coats eggshell I don't care how rough it looks doing it super quick. 24 hours later I sand it smooth and finish with just a smidge of wax. Super smooth no orange peel better than most spray jobs....
X X What kind of wax do you use? Do you have any trouble with it yellowing in time?
Great Video. Joey you rock!
i did my kitchen cabinets the similar way as described in your video over 2years ago now , i used cheap nap roller worked well still looks great thumbs up. ps: will look into Monarch Razorback.
Very nice. Nicely explained. Thanks
... Just did my kitchen and bathroom cabinets, really wanted a sprayed finish, so setup in backyard a 10x10 pop up tent with tarps zip tied to the sides and ground, made for an instant spray booth, took like a half hour to setup.... I primed with BIN and then sprayed BM Advanced with a Graco X5 and 310fflp tip, sprayed each side flat with 24hrs between coats and transferred to garage to dry, worked great, came out like glass and no need to send them out etc....
I am just now planning on doing this exact same thing (kitchen only), using INSL-X STIX for primer vs. BIN. I am assuming you did some sanding after primer and after 1st coat of Advance. Did you have any trouble with Advanced running? I have heard you really have to stay on top of that. Thanks
@@bryanc2685 I laid the doors flat for each coat and 24hrs before flipping, so use lots of patience.., I did not have a problem with runs at all here, I think using the 310fflp tip helped and not over applying... Each coat was done in just a few quick steady passes with the sprayer and worked out great, only had challenge with vertical surfaces, like my valances I hung to spray, really have to be careful not to over apply here or will run.... I got a couple junk doors to practice on and get the feel first.... And yes, I first cleaned really well with krud kutter, sanded well before priming and lightly sanded between every coat and blew and wiped off... if painting oak, watch out you will get bleed through with Stix, that's why I used BIN as a shellac it blocks bleed through and sticks really well, there is a good video of Stix vs bin and bleed through with oak, so if doing oak, would not suggest Stix, 2 or 3 coats of BIN and your all set... Hope that helps and good luck, kitchen came out great but was a lot of work....
@@steveh3734 My cab's are lightly stained/varnished birch, so hopefully no bleedthrough issues pending. I haven't bought my sprayer yet, getting either a Graco Magnum x5 or a Wagner Control Pro 150 so I also will probably use the 310 tip. I will be brushing & rolling where spraying is not prudent. Yeah, it is a lot to plan and do, but I see more uses for my sprayer in the future (fence, deck, shutters at least). Thanks for your responses!
@@bryanc2685 good luck! I rolled the BIN, and sanded it flat, didn't want to run shellac through the sprayer and it turned out fine... And some pieces I could not remove inside I rolled and brushed, and worked out fine... Best tip with Advanced when rolling I found was put it on quick and leave it alone to self level, don't mess with it and will look great... Good luck!!
I also like to use pva sealant or edge banding on the edges of mgf.
Good tip video, thanks.
I can’t deny the results look pretty good, but I’m unclear WHY it works. Why would the subsequent top coats finish up smoother than the first one, when you’ve sanded the primer super smooth? Maybe the subsequent top coats can sit on the first ones without soaking in so have more time to spread out flat?
Geez, fabulous look.
SOLID INFO....THANKS....
The close-up images were captured with just the right light at a good angle. We were able to see detail, especially with the white surfaces. Most videographers don't know how to successfully capture this. Nice work. Do you have any experience with this technique on melamine surfaced cabinets? My kitchen cabinet doors are white melamine covered MDF, and I hate how the white has yellowed. My boxes are birch plywood, and that painted surface is holding up beautifully. I can't spray paint in my apartment, but I don't want to roll if I can't achieve an ultra-smooth finish.
Dulux do a range specifically for those and it's either rattle can or pot n roll.
PRACTICAL - I will not be obsessing about filling and sanding plywood, except the edges...
Nice video Joy! Thanks for sharing.😎👍JP
Looks excellent.
Greetings from beautiful NE Tennessee, sir. Just decided to try rolling on paint to cabinets. I very seldom use solid paint instead I use hand rubbed stains and oils. But working on a coffee stand and client wants it antique white. Looking for some guidance on rolling. Excellent advice here, thanks. I subbed.
Hey Joey...I recently discovered those Monach rollers in a store here in the UK and they are bloody brilliant. I've been using the foam version myself but as I was so impressed with the product I did buy a pack of the 'fluffy' roller heads too..... I'll have to give them a try.
Thanks so much for sharing..great information
Good video. Nice finish.
Great tips - am gonna do that on my next MDF cabinet. I reckon using shitty primer is where I've been mostly stuffing up, so will give the 1-2-3 a go (and get some of those pop off rollers - genius!)
Those rollers look amazing.....I need to find in Canada
How do you make sure there aren't a whole bunch of bumps from the roller?
Nice one Joey. Not sure whether you use Osmo Oil, but those rollers work perfect for Osmo too!
Did you caulk the panels and did you use a tack cloth…I am getting ready to do my bathroom…thanks for the tips…lots of work but the finished product is lovely.
And if you use hydrophobic MDF (the green one) it's even more easy (1 primer and 2 top coat do the job perfectly).
almost An Art Form In It Self . Nicely Done !
Glad you get good results with water-based Zissner 1-2-3. I can't get it to flow out to save my life...
Great video, thanks Joey. I am pulling a cabinet from 17mm ply. Will it warp if I don't paint both sides as would MDF?
Excelente producto los rodillos para pintar y en contenedor para guardarlo !!!! Como me gustaría que acá se venda ese producto y a un precio razonable.
Muchas gracias por el vídeo.
Good one joey, I’m a roller fan too.
Great video!
Thanks again for your experience Joey
Nice video, good explaining!
Great demo
This has to be faster then spaying ( if you calculate the trips to and from ).. I like the finish.
Another great video, thanks Joey. Interesting that you use the BIN primer on bare timber, I only use it if I need to seal the surface or go over a previously painted surface of unknown origin plus it is an expensive paint here in Oz and I dare say in NZ. I do like the Resene quality though. Good set of tips, much appreciated.
Not BIN - Bullseye 123
You need the bullseye or any pigmented sealer for ply or glued wood to prevent the resin staining
Nice result mate
Thanks for your experience Joey.
Love your work Joey. Between coats, and after vacuuming up the sanding dust I use a slightly damp microfibre cloth to clean up the sanding dust. What do you do?
Usually just a blow down, seems to be ok. My thought is that the sanding dust is finer than the paint so any left over dust just blends into the paint
Also great timing . . . I'm rebuilding kitchen cabinet units after out tenant has moved . . . most of the damage was MDF, I think it was because of a bad paint job, definitely not enough paint, I will switch to plywood.
Thanks Bro!
Helpful video. I need to try microfiber roller, as I have issue with roller marks. :(
Excellent
Good video ¡¡
I still say use polycrilic any gloss you prefer ,Satin is good it will protect th paint.
best finishes i found is to gentle brush over each roll of paint
Great video
Hello, excellent video and your painting machine is fabulous, one question Is the paint solvent based like thinner or is it water based? Greetings from Mexico!
Water based
a mohair roller would do a better job than regular 3/8 rollers...
Joey, I want to change the cabinet knobs but the issue here is that I’m going to be left with 1 hole visible because the new knobs only require 1 screw. How can I cover the other hole? And also if I need to reposition the new knob, what kind if drill bit can I use in mdf? Should I drill the holes before or after painting?? Thanks!
Foam roller where made for enamels Microfibre are made for water based
Very Good info.
Hi Joey, great method here. What are your thoughts on rolling a polyurethane clear over the top? What product would you recommend?
That\s Ok for asemi=gloss paint, but do not like the orangepeel finish which could easily be eliminated by laying off afetr the roller with a soft bristled brush. That's what a professional would do.
Hi Joey, Great video! Do you have a tutorial on how you made those MDF doors? I would like to make similar ones in just a square shaker style without the decorative molding. Thank you
No I don't, but a simple shaker door is pretty straightforward. Use 6mm MDF and use a quarter in bit to rout the groove. Corners of the frame can be dowels or biscuits or dominoes or half lap joints etc
How would these end up looking if you took to them with a fine buffing pad I wonder?
Pretty bladdy good.
Hey Joey, the finish came out great but I am just wondering how you find the durability of the piant you use, I find here in Ireland that any paint I ever used by brush or roller is never near as durable as the paint jobs I send out to get sprayed, I'm fairly sure my spray guy mixes a hardner through the paint which I always find to be far surperior, I suppose its a bit like the effects you get mixing epoxy
Here in the states, the Govt is making it more and more difficult to use petroleum based paints. Global warming and all. I am a residential repainter (not new construction), and am unaware of any 'harder' that can be mixed with water based paints. Paint companies try to make durable latex (water based) paints. There are products that are pretty good. I use Sherwin Williams WBU (Water Based Urethane) for entry doors. It is superior to an ordinary exterior latex house paint. But nothing is as hard or durable as oil based or lacquer based paints. My guess is that when you send something out, they are using lacquer, the 'go-to' material for the furniture and cabinet industry. It gives impressive results with a very low cost sprayer. Smart and higher end builders here require lacquer on all interior doors and trim. Rollers leave stippling, brushes leave brush marks, and spraying latex can leave an inconsistent finish - higher sheen in some areas than others. So far as I know lacquer is perfect, and other than removing bugars and lint requires no sanding since the layers melt into one another.
They are phasing out oil based paints here as well, not sure about Lacquer though, I suppose it has to be done, hopefully the water based paints will get better and in time give some where the same results
DRitz78, Most cabinet shops are still spraying catlyzed varnish, like sherwin williams kemvar conversion varnish, when they can. It's hard to beat for kitchens and bath vanities. They make different formulas depending on location. But I think in the L.A. area, I'm not sure if it's allowed. Regular lacquer is a great finish, but really not that good for wet applications. The beauty of catlyzed products is that they dry quickly and very hard so you can sand in minutes. The sherwin williams WBU sounds good, I will have to try it.
gerard donoghue painter and decorater here in ireland I find using owtrol oil in with oil based finishes gives a better quality of finish while being harder wearing as a result
Do you dilute the paint? Or straight from the can?
Do you use tack cloth after sanding? I have a whole kitchen full of (actual) wood cabinets that I was considering spraying. Maybe not now after viewing this.
Yea tac cloth or blow it down with air.
Gr8 one!!!
What about old furniture that has curves. I'm about to cry 😭. I put the first layer but it looks terrible 😭
Hi nice video i painted my door with Behr Premium paint and primer in one but the problem is it very easily get stain and if one hand is not clean touching it it stay i am just wondering if there is some clear finish to apply so the stain can be easily cleared thanks
I would reccomend a better/different paint. Also can depend on gloss level. Matt finish will be hard to clean versus gloss which is much easier to keep clean
Se queda como piel de naranja?
Do you caulk the seams before painting?
Great video! Was that 400 wet sanding or dry sanding
Dry but can be wet
Wow good