Fiat 1.4 Multiair Build Completed, Plus Timing Belt Change Instructions
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- I finished putting the engine together for my Fiat 124. While it's out of the car, it's easy to show where all the components are located, and cover some basic tech information. At the 29:50 mark I start a timing belt change and multiair tutorial. This was intended to be two different videos, but I decided to combine them.
That torque specs was indeed 88 foot pounds.
I should clarify that on the 2014 and later engines you CAN change out that crank position sensor with the engine in the car, it's just a pain as compared with the older front mounted sensor.
The Official auto and Air Fan Store is Here!
gregs-airplane...
Living in Europe and i can confirm that multiair was indeed used in Fiat cars...not for long though (only 4 years from 2009 till 2013)... I got a Fiat Punto from 2012 with the 135 bhp 1.4 turbo multiair that works great as of today and never failed me so far. I love it ! 😊
I have to say it for everyone... this should be title "The Holy Grail" video's of all Fiat 500😊 thank you and outstanding video!!!!
Thank you. That's the best explanation of timing this motor that I have found on the internet. You sir are a gentleman and a scholar.
Found your channel first via one of your Fiat videos but stayed for the nerdy airplane content. Great content Greg, thanks for the entertainment and stay safe everyone.
I'm glad you are here.
I have that engine in my 2013 Dodge Dart. It's a fun engine for sure!
But it's hard to match the styling of a Fiat.
Thanks for uploading these videos! I've had my 500 Abarth for 7 years now and just now starting to tune her. Almost at 100k miles so I'd like to tear her down and rebuild to make more power!
Was kinda stretchy getting into fiats as a next car but this video definitely put me on the buy side. Thanks for your time into this video
LOL good luck. These junky motors pay the mortgage tho. So by all means please buy buy buy! I got 7 years left on my bank note.
Great video, thank you!
At the oil pump are two threaded plugs. I put oil temp and oil pressure sensors there (with adapters).
This engine certainly merits a tour especially since FIAT gets bagged a lot.
That steel coolant pipe under the exhaust manifold with the funny nut goes right back to the the original 1980s Fiat FIRE engine. They work well but on older cars they are noted for corrosion. Worth a coat of paint (on top of OEM) in my opinion.
Thank you so much for the the incredible video ! What a great amount of valuable information for these motors I have a jeep renegade with this motor .
The worst part is now I need to find one of these Motors so I can build one for the jeep
I like that you speak in the same way as with the planes, but I nothing about cars vs planes. Thanks for the info.
Thanks Greg. Looks like it's going well. Be careful trying to install it by yourself, some things go better (and safer) with extra hands to help. I'm anxious to see the finished item in action. It would be cool to see that Abarth 500 in action too.
Cheers
So I was at this Jeep Service Station in India and they didnt know how to lock the camshaft for timing belt change. But thanks to you!
Very informational video! My timing belt tension blew out and I jumped time but the engine seems to be okay, gonna tackle it this coming weekend!
Really enjoyed your videos on this engine rebuild..thank you for taking time to make it and post it!!!
you're welcome, I'm glad you liked it. I need to finish this series by showing how well it all worked out.
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles I for one would look forward to seeing that...sorry that COVID-19 has put limits to your man power at the moment!,
Another fabulous video on this engine. Brilliant, loved the engine tour. Thank you
It looks like a staked nut on the belt tensioner which would make sense how it holds together. It still seems a bit light on backup plans but obviously works.
TY TY TY!!!! I run a 2013 Abarth with 50hp wet nos kit.... Just picked up 2 used motors to build....
Hi Mike, I'm glad to hear it. A 50hp shot, that's a lot, I'm glad it's holding up.
You may not see this but if you do, I'm trying to find the correct timing tools for a 2015 Fiat 500 sport 1.4
I'll talk to Toby and Eurocompulsion and have him start stocking them.
This is one knowledgeable man. Thanks Ive an Abarth 124. Love it.
Great video, I have the 1.4L engine in my 2016 500X POP with a 6-speed manual, it's a fun car.I don't plan on any mods but I love learning about it.
can I know one thing, is that follow the same style of Abarth 500's transmission? cause It only has 5 speed manual. so is it possible to swap?
@@duke9620 500X, which is more of a Jeep than a Fiat 500
@@duke9620 im not saying its impossible, but chances are it is impossible. would need different halfshafts, shift linkage, etc
Thank you for the great explanation of the Multiair engine!
You're welcome.
Me again. The 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 twin can engine as used in certain Fiat cars and the Alfa Romeo TS (Twin Spark) had non-keyed cam pulleys. Cam locking tools sat over cam lobes on each cam. You also needed a reaction (holding) tool to hold the cam wheel while torquing the retaining bolt.
I don't doubt that, but this is the first engine I have seen that's set up this way. Keep in mind we didn't have any new Fiats or Alfas here for a while, so there are engines I haven't seen. All engines I have seen have either timing marks, keyways, or both, this is the first engine I have ever seen with nothing to help align the cam. I think it's a huge mistake on Fiat/Alfa's part.
The oil cooler is a plate type heat exchanger. The idea was perfected by Rolls Royce with patents going back to the 1970s but it's likely they had them even longer ago on classified equipment.
Old Fiat FIRE engines (1.1L especially) are popular in Eastern Europe for amator racing - slap in 1.2 head, factory 4-2-1 exhaust manifold, 42mm throttle body or ITBs from a 650cc bike, balance rotating assembly, put flywheel on a diet and you'll get around 120HP reving up to 8500 - 9k RPM
That makes sense, all the Fiat engines are good. We didn't get than engine in the US, but I'm glad to hear it's doing well over there.
Thanks for sharing the build videos.
You're welcome. I'll have some exciting new Fiat stuff up soon.
Outstanding tour of the engine! Thanks
Thanks, I just subscribed. Small world, we drive the same cars, and I've been to the same events you have on your channel.
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles Thanks for the sub! If you ever see me at an event say hi. I'm usually wearing a large hat ;)
I wish I had access to E85 where I live, due to the laws here changing fuel and doing a remap are pretty much the only things I can do to legally alter the performance of my car. Thanks for the video, have been very interested in the 124 roadster and hunting for an Abarth right now.
Thanks for watching. Just adding an intake and a Phase 1 tune from Eurocompulsion adds a lot of power.
I wish I had the knowledge and the patience to do stuff like this on my own time, it legitimately looks fun.
And I must ask, is that your Jeep in the background?
Thanks Sky, no, it's my son's Jeep. It has a lot of modifications for appearance and off road action. Under the hood it's a 2.0 Turbo with extra power via a Vaitrix booster module (which we tuned here).
Thank you, Greg. Jeeps are the only car I know anything about because of all the work I’ve had to do on mine. It’s interesting to see a much more in depth video such as yours though.
@@skyflier8955 The Jeep Renegade and Fiat 500X are made in the same Poland factory. May parts are common but the implementations are quit a but different.
Greg, after watching this you have me thinking about doing that C&B cam.
Hi Shark, I am a bit limited in what I can say here, but if I were you, I would wait. A lot is happening.
Greg's Airplanes and Automobiles thanks. I’m in no rush, my car work space is at my father’s house and I can’t go there right now because of the virus.
I wouldn't take the engine out to change the timing belt.
However, I got stuck when removing the first cast.
It is connected to the compressor support casting.
multi air is in the 2.4L Tigershark variant in JEEP Cherokees. I thought they should have used an electric oil pump because the mutliair if it sits for extended periods has a longer crank time until the oil pressure pumps back up.
Worse than that, if it sits long enough you can't start it without bleeding the multiair system, not something you can easily do in an airport long term parking lot.
GREAT Job, Again Greg!
German fiat fan here.
Despite a lot of BS, talked about FIAT, they always build very good an inovative engines.
The rest of the cars, can be discussed.....
Answered several mysteries that not available anywhere else. Marvelous! The last mystery is - why do these engines drain down the oil in the valve actuators when inactive for long periods? It seems like a simple design flaw that there is a missing check valve in the oil supply for the accumulator chamber or lack of quick positive supply from the oil pump or worn intake lifter clearance? If the oil pump could quickly replenish the accumulator when cranking a long stored engine it would seem to solve this issue. It is a shame that ignorant/ lazy/ oil maint. may be the death of this design. The Dart an Spider are history - is there an easy mod to the oil passages? Accusump does not seem to have a kit. A complete diagram of the oil network for this engine has been elusive.
Thanks for watching my video. Yes, the oil drain down is an issue if the car sits for too long. In my experience it has to sit for months before it's a problem, but still, they shouldn't have let that happen.
Lovely piece of work.
Greg is the man!
Very informative Greg. Nice job. Thank you.
Thanks Chainring.
Great video. You’ve enlightened me big time, as I also have a 124 spider. Thanks Greg
Sorry for the off-topic but will you ever make a vid on the Thunderscreech? That plane is weird and fascinating and there isn't much in-depth info online apart from how loud it was.
I'm not sure there is much interest in that plane. I have seen the one in Bakersfield, and it's certainly interesting. Maybe when I start covering the turboprops (meaning gas turbine engines driving propellers).
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles Hell yeah! Thank you!
I have a 2017 with 50,000 miles. Can I really wait for 15 years or 150,000 miles before changing the belt?
Me thinks 153,000 miles is the life of this engine / car (246,229 kms) I can't imagine many being alive after that except a few. And good luck finding a mechanic that knows about the crank lock tool when that happens.
My 500L has about 130,000 miles on it and still has full compression and doesn't leak or burn oil. That's with over 200hp for almost it's entire life so I do think the engines will last through one belt cycle and way beyond. However the value of the car is such that they may not be worth maintaining beyond that. Fiats drop in value like crazy and the lack of dealer support has been a killer to the brand. Plus the prices of the parts have been going up a lot.
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles Yes I needed 5 lug nuts for my Abarth and only the dealer had them $85. Big reason why I stopped driving it daily and its only got 34,000 miles, still like new. It has gone up in value recently though, which is good. From barely worth $14,500 to nearly $20,000. So storing it has been worth it.
Change the oil every 6.000miles /10000 kilometers and the engine will live over 400000 kilometers
Greg, Would you be able to do a timing belt/water pump service video on the 1.4 Multiair?
I suppose, can I add in a camshaft swap? I'm doing all that on a 500L pretty soon, so I can make it into a video if you would like.
That would be something many of us would watch!
just found your channel, i love your 500!
The Jeep engine is a completely new series of engine itroduced in 2016 called the Hirricane. Have not worked one one but it was supposedly developed in house by Alpha for the Giulia
Yup, in fact we are already tuning the Hurricane engines, which as you said are based on Alfa Romeo architecture. The Hurricane is a great engine.
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles So this means there has never been a non-multiair FIRE engine in the US
I'm not sure what you mean. The Jeep Wrangler has an optional 2 liter turbo four cylinder. It's a Hurricane engine, non mulit-air. The upcoming 6 cylinder Hurrican is of similar design.
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles As Im sure you know, this 1.4 is from the Fiat FIRE series of engines which go back to the 80's . As you stated, in Europe they had Non-Multiair 16v versions of the FIRE as standard. The point is it would seem that at no time was any version of the non-multiair FIRE engine sold in North America. The 2.0, as we stated, being a completely different engine. As an aside Stellantis claims the 3.0 Hurricane is bespoke as well, having less than 5% comminality with any other engine line.
Great explanatory video ! Thank you ⭐️⭐️⭐️
I have an Abarth 124 1.4 multi air from new with 40000 Km now. My recent mechanic ( official FIAT dealer ) has been using the 10W50 oil for my car on last 3 services and I drove about 14.000 Km with that oil…. I was assuming there were using the recommended oil as per manual !
Previous services with another garage , were using the recommended 5W40 . I don’t get why the FIAT dealer is using the 10W50 for ALL Abarth’s not taking in account if it’s a multiair or a T-jet !! I told them about and they are not bothered. I have changed garage and replaced for the 5W40.
My question is , do you think I have damaged my engine by using the 10W50 for 14.000 Km ?
I suspect it's fine, especially if this was in warm weather, but that's just guess, I really don't know.
Thank you for your answer 😄
I guess for engine lube should be ok , my concern was for the correct functioning of the multi air system without the right density oil
Hi Greg, it's been 4 weeks since you last uploaded anything. Just wanted to make sure everything is fine.
Thanks Asif, yup, fine, I've just been busy. Now I have been working on videos, they just aren't done yet.
My 500 abarth use to give Everything trouble on the road. Bigger powered cars didn't know what was going on lol.
I've got a 2017 Lusso, should I really let the belt go to 150K? A lot of people seem to scoff at that number.
I personally change them at 100,000 miles, but I'm sure they would be fine to 150,000. Fiat has been building engine with timing belts for a long time, they have it down.
Awesome video! Enjoyed everything except the blow off valve... not a fan of that piontless sound. LOL
So the tool kit is not just for keeping the correct timing in place, but also setting the correct timing? Or am I understanding the use of the timing tool kit wrong?
It's only for setting the timing. Once it's set, you remove the tools, you can't run the engine with those on there, it's won't turn over.
21:00 I discovered a coolant leak during my last oil change on my 124. It looked like it was sourced from the notorious water pump area. The leak isn't massive pr causing any problems but I'm replacing the pump, tensioner and belt soon and I hope after this huge jib it stops the leak and it isn't this part.
That's a problem area, but the Fiat water pump is a quality unit. If you put it all together and seal it carefully you will have years if not decades of leak free service from it.
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles yeah I'm 23k mi in to my 124 abarth and I'm hoping it's just the issue of the factory rtv. Heard they didn't put enough on. Any rtv you recommend?
Sure, I personally use this on my Fiats: www.jbweld.com/product/hi-temp-red-silicone . I have been very happy with it.
I'm guessing that cam positioning tool is very difficult/impossible to put in position when the engine is in situ? If so, is it a case of Tippex'ing your own timing marks when changing the timing belt?
No, you can get the tools in place with the engine in the car, it's not a problem, but it's very time consuming. Making your own timing marks are not really an option because you won't have anyway of holding the cam in place with enough accuracy when the tighten the cam nut.
Not sure but seems you removed AC. Is there a kit? I have a 1.4 none turbo i dont need the AC on
I have not removed the A.C.
You missed the part about replacing the Multiair oil filter
My buddy Brian at NGen has an excellent video covering just that.
hmmm spraypainting the black spaghetti into multi-coloured spaghetti might make finding stuff easier. Then again, an engine gets hot so I would need to find heat-resistant paint for the sprayer.
A reasonable idea, but It's easier to change to different colored hoses, paint won't stick to that stuff.
Hey Man , Came Merlins , stayed for the Multi Fiat engine go figure. Anywho QUESTIONS: you never mentioned the hp numbers. Ball park. Have you seen a Merlins running on E85 , How tall and wide is the multi air 1.4.
I'll have to answer this when I get back home. I haven't measured the height and width. It's fairly tall, I would say about average in width. It's length is short, which was a primary design consideration.
Hi can you help me or direct find a manual 6 speed gearbox for my 2009 fiat Bravo 2 198 1.4 T-jet I have the selespeed 6 semi automatic system and it has failed I am doing a conversion instead of replacing the selespeed gearbox and having the same problem with the electrical
Sorry, we never had those here, so I can't help.
I, too, have the 1.4L MultiAir in my 2013 Dodge Dart. Love the car, love the performance. Unfortunately, at 100K miles I had to get the top of the engine rebuilt. The cam lobes were completely worn down leaving the MultiAir system without enough oil pressure to work properly. Have you ever had that happen to one of your engines? Most of my mileage was highway, commuting to work five days a week, 160 miles round trip. Not especially hard driving, but I did use manual shift mode frequently with the 6-speed DCT and always used spec oil.
I haven't seen that problem, it's odd because the multiair lobes are rollers, so they normally don't wear at all.
Evening Greg! Thanks for such a detailed video. How hard would you say changing both belts and the water pump would be with a couple of jack stands and the correct timing tools in my driveway? I'm a sparks by trade and have some practical knowledge and have just purchased a 2015, 75k "1.4 Multiair TB Alfa Romeo Gulietta QV-Line" and it doesn't show this being done in the service history so thought I could tackle it, saving some money, gaining some exsperiance and the peace of mind knowing it wasn't attempted with sharpie marks by a garage. Is this the correct order of operation:
1) Remove the battery and the air Intake (to make room around the vacuum pump).
2) Jack the bottom of the engine to unload it slightly and place a jackstand for support. Where is a good place to put the jack stand and the jack to prevent cracking the case?
3) Remove the engine mount, freeing the area around the belts.
4) Remove tension on the serpentine belt and then remove it from the crank pulley.
5) Remove the crank pulley and install the locking tool by rotating the crank until the tool aligns with the bolt post before tightening it in place.
6) Remove the vacuum pump and install the holding plate (I assume that it will align correctly first try now as the crank is already locked in the correct position?).
7) Remove the tensioner and the timing belt and loosen the cam sprocket (Whilst holding tension on the cam sprocket with an external tool to prevent snapping the cam rod).
8) Remove the water pump with a container below to capture any excess coolant (I assume I don't need to drain the coolant reservoir or the radiator to do this? / This isn't going to all come rushing out?).
9) Install a new water pump with a bead of liquid gasket around the perimeter after cleaning the mounting services with a plastic scraper.
10) Install the new timing belt and tensioner, over-tensioning it slightly past the mark to allow for the tensioner to spring back, at this point the cam sprocket will also rotate slightly taking up slack in the new timing belt?
11) Torque down the cam sprocket (Whilst holding tension on the cam sprocket with an external tool to prevent snapping the cam rod).
12) Remove both timing tools and turn the engine manually twice and then check the tension is still correct. Am i listening for strange noises? weird grinding? how will I know if it's wrong?
13) If the tension is still correct reinstall other components, remove the jack stand and jack , and after waiting a little while for the battery to charge the system (To not upset the Alfa ecu) start the engine.
I hope this all correct? If i go to install the holding plate and it doesn't align (Even though the crank is locked it the correct position) what do I do? does that mean the engines timing is slightly off in this hypothetical scenario? (even though the engine runs fine at the moment). Correcting me and any extra advice would be so much appreciated Greg, I hope to hear from you soon!
Oh also I plan on changing all the disks & pads and brake fluid as well as engine oil, Oil filter, Multiair Strainer/filter, Air filter, pollen filter and spark plugs. Regarding the transmission fluid, it looks like a massive pain to get to and I believe this engine doesn't have a dipstick to check the quality, when do you normally change it and should i do that also? Any help with all above or advice on servicing it for a fresh start for my ownership will be much appreciated and thanks again!
I have never worked on a Giulietta, we didn't have those in the US but your description does look right, although I didn't go through it super carefully. cont:
If the holding plates don't align, you have to rotate the crank and or cam until they do.
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles thanks for your quick response Greg, how will I know which one needs to be rotated? By rotating one or the other won't I be changing the engine's timing?
Need Help This may be a dumb question. I can get to the head bolts to remove the head. 1.4 multi air. I took out the 8 short bolts. But they look to short for head bolts. I think the head is 2 pieces? But can't get the spark plugs tubes to give.I am doing something totally wrong. The manifold turbo off the intake still on. Anyway can't get head to move or can't find the head bolts. Thanks
You have to remove the cam carrier. The head bolts are under that.
Hi greg… thank you for the videos. I have a question I hope you can answer. I have read in a couple different fiat forums that I need to lock out the camshaft first and rotate the crankshaft to align the tool. Your video says to do the opposite. Which one is correct? I am working on a US version fiat 500 Abarth. Is the t-jet engine a different process and that’s why those guys are saying the manual calls for the camshaft to be locked first? I don’t get why it would be different but that’s what they are saying.
First of all, I am in the U.S. and the engine in the video is a U.S. engine. It makes absolutely no difference which one you lock in place first.
Do you think that gearboxes from the other cars that use the 1.4 T-jet Motor can also work on the bravo?
We never had the Bravo in the US, so I have no idea about that car.
Can I ask one favor??
Can you please share with us what spark plugs are best for this motor ?? And if you want , the plugs for your modified engine vs the ones we would normally use??
It would be greatly appreciated!!!
Sure, I normally use these: shopeurocompulsion.net/products/ngk-fiat-spark-plugs . However the Brisks are a bit better for anti-knock, but they don't last long: shopeurocompulsion.net/products/ngk-fiat-spark-plugs
Thanks again , have you had to deal with oil draining out of the brick ? And the engine starting ?? Any tricks to prevent that?
I have had to deal with that. I have no tricks to prevent it other than starting the car at least every couple weeks.
Also do I need to use flywheel lock from the locking tool set to replace the timing belt or can I not use it
You do not need the flywheel locking tool when replacing the cam belt.
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles also I did a head gasket.sent head for valve job.had cylinder 3 misfire.did the leak down test the air leaks out of cylinder 3.the intake valves leak air.what could it be if the machine shop did the valve job
Thank you
Hi Greg. What is the torque spec for the flywheel bolts on the Fiat 500? I can’t find it and I figure you would know. Love your videos btw. Thanks
I don't know that off the top of my head. I do know that there are two different sizes used on Fiat 1.4s and they have two different specs, so you have to be careful. Furthermore they are all one time use bolts, so you need new ones every time. Also, they are torque to yield, so there is a torque spec, then a number of degrees you have to turn them beyond that. So they are quite specific.
Greg, could you list the timing tools in the description?
I'll add them in today. Good idea. I'll put in that torque spec too, I've just been busy.
how can I rebuild my engine like that is there a place I could send and get quality parts?
Thanks for your informative video.
how about turbo problems, since there were some claims about it in Europe, especially versions before 2018.
I haven't seen a turbo problem in one of these engines. I have seen a lot of people claiming to have turbo problems, which turned out to be something else.
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobileswould you consider it as reliable engine?
Hi, just wondering which engine code is this? Is this the europe/UK engine or the US engine?
U.S.
greetings,i own a fiat 500 sport none turbo with 98000 miles on it.I've done all maintenance on this car and often wounder how long do these multi air engines last?
They seem to last forever. My 500L has had about 200hp and has served as a Eurocompulsion.net test mule since 2014. It has about 120,000 miles on it. I just did the timing belt change and did a compression check. The engine has zero, and I mean zero detectable wear.
The dealership told me that if you over tighten the knock sensor you will crush it. So I guess be careful not to over torque it, although I also suspect that the dealership is just saying stuff to make me buy a 3rd knock sensor instead of just replacing the ECU under warranty.
Your stealership is misleading you. Over torquing any bolt on any car beyond a certain point will damage something so of course overtorquing the knock sensor beyond some point will damage it. If you are having to replace knock sensors, something is really wrong. I have never seen one fail.
Is the Garret turbo charger made by the same company that builds turbine engines for MU-2s and twin Commanders?
Yes, that's the same company. In fact the Garrett TPE series of engines use what are basically large turbochargers for their compressor section.
Any input on troubleshooting a MultiAir actuator without specialized equipment? I have a misfire on Cyl 4, new plugs, no help. Move coils, missfire does not follow. Exhaust stinks like fuel, I'm certain It's getting it. Next step is a compression test. From what i can tell, these solenoids fail closed, so no compression would mean failed actuator (or worse...) right?
Also any input on finding good used or overhauled units? I'm hesitant to put a $1000 actuator on what's realistically a $3500 car... 2012 500 Sport N/A.
It's likely you have a bad fuel injector. If all those are good and compression is low on that cylinder it's either a valve problem, or multiair. Only a leak down test can tell for sure.
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobilesI did a leak down test on cylinder 3.the air comes out of the intake side valves.it has a cylinder 3 misfire.did a head gasket,sent to machine shop to do valve job but still leakes air from cylinder 3 and has miss fire.what could be the problems
Fuel vapor harvester sounds really interesting.
It is pretty interesting.
May you tell me what position 3 cylinder cam lobe is suppose to be.
what are the figures for torquing down the multi air system? thanks
Well Done!!!
I have the 1.4 in my 2014 dodge dart it has 170psi on cyl 1,3 and 4 but only 30 psi on 2 would the multi air cause this?
Hi Jeffrey, how many miles are on the car? What mods if any does it have? Are you the original owner? I'll help you, but I need more info.
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles 2nd owner first was my girlfriends mom she had dealer oil changes as scheduled she says no mods at all 165k miles
There is a lot of hype surrounding Koenigsegg free-valve engines. Didn't the Fiat MultiAir do roughly the same thing many years prior with one small difference: Koenigsegg engineers were confident enough to leave the camshaft out altogether, while Fiat said, let's leave in the bumpstick -- as a baseline -- just in case. Would this topic justify a video by itself?
They are similar, however Fiat uses it on intake valves only, Koenigsegg uses it on both intake and exhaust. The Fiat system uses oil pressure to control lift and duration. Koenigsegg uses air pressure for duration and oil for lift. I think Fiat's is better because it's less complex and does the same thing. Anytime they wanted to, Fiat could put this on both sets of valves and even eliminate the cam entirely. It's an issue of cost, let's remember that a Fiat 500 Abarth is a 22k car brand new. You can get a great used one for very little. The Koenigsegg car is over 2 million.
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought MultiAir still needed the cam and any cam profile changes were a subset of that? Freevalve can have an effectively square cam profile. Or is it just that the use of a cam makes the whole system cheaper and simpler and it would be possible to make camless at greater cost? If so, what changes would be required to make MultiAir a camless system?
How much did this motor cost to build?
I was told the timing tensioner needed to be adjusted to full tension first then rotate shaft twice then adjusted to center, is that correct? Or will it be ok to just adjust to center notch.
Center it, rotate and it should still be there, if not, do it again, but I have never seen it move once set.
Thanks 🙏
I just had my timing belt changed at 22000 miles, as Fiat quote 6 years or 60,000 miles on my 124 Spider
Can you weigh in on the use of stiffer multi-air springs? You were talking about the fact that you could prove that modified multi-air units fail and cause valve to piston contact. There are is a tunner that uses stiffer multi-air springs in his stage 2 package. Claims better pull through the upper rpm range.
jetguy flying, Yes I'd like to know more about this as well. Was this modification that caused the valves to contact the piston from your video?
I very strongly recommend NOT changing to aftermarket multiair springs. At best you gain absolutely nothing, at worst you will have significant damage.
Great video..Thanks!
Enjoyed the video, amazing tour. You mentioned to use the right oil, I live in Arizona , temps here in the summer ave 108+ F 🥵. Can you suggest a couple of good oils for this engine. Thank you .
I use synthetic oil in the recommended viscosity. I don't focus on the brand, I just use what's on sale. My 500L has about 150k miles on it, it doesn't burn oil and has full compression. I think it's more about how often you change it, then what brand you use.
Hey Greg nice vids, very helpfull! I wonder hows the status right now. It would be very cool to show how engine is getting changed. Maybe you could make a vid with the cat bolt on to see how much space is there fo a custom exhaust manifold;) anyway thank you for this series, greetings from switzerland
Thanks Jan, I do need to make a video update. The engine has been in my car for about a year and is doing well. My car videos don't do as well as the airplane stuff, so I just don't put them out as often.
were do a buy the no namer tool is it on ebay ? thanks
Greg, How much torque is on the timing belt tensioner nut? And is 88lbs correct for the cam nut?
88 foot pounds for the bolt that secures the cam pulley to the cam. I'm not sure about the tensioner nut. I can't get a torque wrench on it anyway, so I just do it by feel.
Hi Greg like the vids , was wondering what wheels you have on your 500 Abarth . Tks
Those are Evo Corse wheels.
Hello Greg. I have a 2019 500L that I'm wanting to do minimal upgrades to for a little extra pep/mileage. I'm having an incredibly difficult time finding an air intake for this model. Could you please point me in the right direction?
Hi Robert, there is no good aftermarket option for the 2014 and up 500L. I might make one at some point but there is really no market for them.
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles same engine then right capable for a abarth swap
Where is the diverter valve hooked up? I see the blow off gauge on the turbo, but I was under the impression the diverter had an electronic connection.
It does have an electronic connection, I have it mounted on the driver's side inner fender. I have a video of the installation here: ruclips.net/video/WoAbvsHBXRs/видео.html
Where does that crankshaft position connect to once in the car?
On this engine the crankshaft connects to three things, the camshaft, water pump, and oil pump. Only the camshaft is timed relative to the crankshaft, the other two are connected and spin with it, but there is no timing issue with them.
Do you have an Instagram or somthing where I can show you a video of what I’m talking about
The other end of the sensor wire is where I don’t know where it plugs into
I did a timing belt and water pump on a 2013 fiat abarth turbo in the car u talk about a tight fit
Man what else with 4 wheels have you standing around there? I would watch a little garage tour wink wink ;)
It's not that exciting. Maserati Ghibli S Q4, which I love, but wife hates, so it has to go. My Fiat 124 and 500L (modded to about 200hp). I have a supercharged Alfa Romeo Spider that I need to get running but never have the time, and an Alfa GTV6 non running, which I need to sell. Other cars there are the White 500 Abarth which Brandon (one of my workers) owns, Toby's Volvo, and Jordan's Jeep and Alfa Romeo Giulia. That's it.
@@GregsAirplanesandAutomobiles Hehe thanks for the list. Why would you sell a GTV6, they're quite rare nowadays?!
I love the car, but don't have time for it.
"Which I love but the wife hates so it has to go." .ha ha the tyranny of marriage. Say Greg..does the wife have anything she loves but you hate..but has to stay? I bet a closet full of things. Just kidding..sort of. Great vid as usual. I always learn quite a bit.
Greg's Airplanes and Automobiles I feel your pain, I sold my Hellcat last year, no time for it.
What prompted the rebuild? Looks like a good candidate for a motor swap or just swap in a salvage yard motor and save a small fortune?
I wanted the extra power I can get with the stronger pistons.
Thanks for the great content! Ending up here looking for info on the 1.4 multi air tear down. I have a possible bad head gasket. Were is the best place to get a good manual?
Thanks
Thanks, I don't have a good source for a manual. It's possible I'll have to write one myself.