Plus Titebond sponsors a lot of woodworking events. Every year at the 4H fairs, they give out bottles to all the young woodworkers. My daughter refers to the process of gluing as Titebonding.
Another interesting question would be "What is your most used chisel?" My most used and favourite one is the 20 mm or roughly 3/4 inch chisel. While pretty much every youtuber advocates vor the 1/2 inch chisel 🤷♂
Since I'm fairly new to wood working and a lot of my choices are limited by budget I was really looking forward to this video because I wanted to see what things I should try out next ! So this has given me a lot to think about
I'd be very interested to see some correlations, but there are so many. What tool steel is preferred by hand tool vs power tool users? What finish is preferred by sanders vs planers/scrapers? For those who get jiggy with their sharpening, do they camber at all or just leave cutting edges straight? Is there correlation between mortise/pins first and tenons/tails first or the other combination? How many left handers do everything else wrong 😏 ?
I recently started "rolling" the corners and I like that a lot more then a camber all across. Love my Norton oil stones. I still have issues doing freehand so I bounce back and forth depending on my mood. I also stopped doing a secondary bevel recently and stopped the ruler trick, both I found pointless. I have a face vice and I made a crappy "moxon" that I attacked to the side of my bench. Mech pencil for me for fine and a marker for rough. Haven't done much furniture but I use poly when I do, mostly oil/wax for everything else.
I wasn't surprised by tails first over pins, nor mortice before tenon. Once you look at the data for most influential woodworkers, it makes sense. A lot of the more popular woodworkers cut tails first and it is easier to fit a tenon to an incorrect mortice than to try and adjust the mortice to fit the tenon. It is the influence of the woodworkers they watch on RUclips. Neither is wrong if it works for you, I just think it is heavily influenced by the popular online woodworkers. Since most people do a lot of online research prior to starting a project it makes sense that it would correlate.
For the secondary bevel results. For me its just such a no fuss way to refresh an edge on a fine stone (10-20 strokes will do it). While I learned to sharpen freehand first, I was always bugged that you can ruin the main angle by becoming impatient and lifting the blade too much. Since I wanted to have a surefire way to have "factory setting" on my edges, I go with secondary bevel and I renew the primary once in blue moon (more than a year for most planes)
As a professional woodworker for over 40 years and teaching now. I'm more surprised at the answers you are surprised by 🤔 Did you start out a tech guy or in Woodworking as a profession? Because tech guys do look at things differently to time served woodworkers.
I’m curious about sampling bias in regards to hand vs power tools. I watch your channel for hand tool work, and would imagine others do too. Of course if there were many power tool-centric channels who were sent the survey, that might change things.
That's what I was trying to do with getting other woodworkers in on it but very few other channels sent it to their audience. So there is a pretty strong bias between Rex's and my channel.
Not going to lie, I genuinely feel that way about spreadsheets. I work with them every day and I'm constantly frustrated by people's inability to understand their uses!
Mostly hand tools, bit mixed. PVA as most used glue (epoxy is so much more expensive), diamond stones for the most part but I wish I could get CBN WHEELS for my turning tools (diamond cards for turning tool touch ups, and a cheap store bought maple bench (for now). Still just a hobbyist. That was interesting an interesting compilation. As far as videos on wood working; obviously Im on this channel, but also watch Paul S. and Rex K. But Id say boat building channels and wood turning are a larger portion of my video viewing (too many to name).
For the glue issue, I just don't see where epoxy is worth the hassle. Its big benefits are longer open time and gap filling. I have never really had an issue with working time of PVA even for complex projects and I try my best not to have significant gaps in my joinery. Hide glue isn't bad, but you typically have to keep it heated and while it's awesome sometimes that it can be removed with heat and water, I worry too much about what other people are going to put my projects through to trust it.
I made my own 'vice' using T tracks screwed to the side of my bench.Flush with the top and bottom ( about 4 inches gap keeps things straight)I can clamp just about anything and any size,and can add more along the whole length of the bench if needed for a table top for example.A cheap and effective alternative. I can set it up on site with plywood and 2by4 in 10 mins also as a hold down on top of bench .Are there any other 'hacks' you discovered?
PVA doesn't surprise me. I don't see why you would use epoxy except in the situations where it was needed (thermo setting expensive polymers) And PVA is very common. Thought it was interesting to see how much hide glue is used
PVA is cheap and really easy to find. I have a big jug of it from my local big box hardware store that I've been using for years. For a hobby woodworker, it's great. I like liquid hide glue too, but a small bottle of it costs as much as that big jug of PVA, I have to order it online, and the bottle goes bad in a year or so. I've considered epoxy for some projects, but I'm not made out of money.
@@sethgeorgson7775 Exactly my thoughts. Epoxy is costly and has to be mixed for each use. PVA is cheap and sits there ready when I need it. And it works.
I wonder how many people mis-read, or misunderstood, the question about the furniture finish? That result seems very counter-intuitive. Perhaps they were thinking of shop furniture?
Seems pretty much on point to me. Oil and wax are easy to apply, don't require special tools like a sprayer, don't have to worry about brush marks, and are cheap and readily available. Products like Rubio are expensive for the weekend woodworker so I see them primarily for special projects and RUclips influencers.
As a very novice woodworker, I didn't know paste wax wasn't appropriate for furniture. I had seen in the description of the paste wax on the wood by wright shop, James said he uses soft wax for furniture: "The Soft wax is made from two parts Bees Wax, two parts Home Made Boiled Linseed Oil, and one part mineral spirits (White Spirits). They come in about 4 oz containers. You can wipe on a surface, let it harden, and then polish off the rest. I use this for furniture and the final shine for most finishes."
@@olekgierczak2494 Paste wax applied as the final finish is great on furniture. It makes a great furniture polish. But the point was that a simple Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) and paste wax finish just doesn't provide the protection that most people are going to want for their furniture. James has done several videos demonstrating and testing different finishes.
I've done a bunch of test videos on different glues. And epoxy almost always comes out on top particularly in gap filling or anything at all with moisture or wood movement. It's far more forgiving and flexible. Not to mention it's got a large open time so you don't have to stress out when trying to glue things together. It's just a really simple glue that works in almost all applications. The only downside is it's a little more expensive. But when you buy it by the gallon it's not that much more.
Video idea - using epoxy as adhesive. I kinda like it. But big issue is that it can wick into the wood and effect subsequent finish. Putting painters tape along the joint helps a little, but the epoxy will wick right under it. Sure, if it's a lap joint it's easy to sand out, but a inside corner, not so much.
This is a really good point. I use epoxy a lot when using a film finish and the end use will see a lot of abuse and or water. This allows me to use epoxy as a primer. Also pressing veneers with epoxy means that some epoxy will be on the surface and that mean that you must use epoxy as a primer.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo yes, "vice" can refer to either, but I believe "vise" only refers to the clamping device. What's the saying? "One man's vice is another man's pleasure"?
My biggest surprise is how surprised you are that PVA is so widely used. It is quick, easy, versatile and it just works.
Plus Titebond sponsors a lot of woodworking events. Every year at the 4H fairs, they give out bottles to all the young woodworkers. My daughter refers to the process of gluing as Titebonding.
And dries clear. 👍
It's cheap compared to West System epoxy. I use both depending on the application.
There really isn’t a right or wrong. Enjoy the process and be proud you made something!
This is really fascinating data. Thank you for sharing!
Another interesting question would be "What is your most used chisel?" My most used and favourite one is the 20 mm or roughly 3/4 inch chisel. While pretty much every youtuber advocates vor the 1/2 inch chisel 🤷♂
Since I'm fairly new to wood working and a lot of my choices are limited by budget I was really looking forward to this video because I wanted to see what things I should try out next ! So this has given me a lot to think about
My wife is a researcher. It is amazing to get ~2000 responses. good job
Pie charts make me hungry!
"Mmmm pie" (drool)
Mmmmmm. Pizza pie!
Pretty interesting results indeed, James! Fascinating! 😃
About glues, epoxy is still a bit expensive...
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I'd be very interested to see some correlations, but there are so many. What tool steel is preferred by hand tool vs power tool users? What finish is preferred by sanders vs planers/scrapers? For those who get jiggy with their sharpening, do they camber at all or just leave cutting edges straight? Is there correlation between mortise/pins first and tenons/tails first or the other combination? How many left handers do everything else wrong 😏 ?
I recently started "rolling" the corners and I like that a lot more then a camber all across. Love my Norton oil stones. I still have issues doing freehand so I bounce back and forth depending on my mood. I also stopped doing a secondary bevel recently and stopped the ruler trick, both I found pointless. I have a face vice and I made a crappy "moxon" that I attacked to the side of my bench. Mech pencil for me for fine and a marker for rough. Haven't done much furniture but I use poly when I do, mostly oil/wax for everything else.
Thank you for answering my my question on the qna
Interesting but I'm afraid I don't share your enthusiasm for spreadsheets. LOL!! Thanks for your channel and keep your fingers!
I wasn't surprised by tails first over pins, nor mortice before tenon. Once you look at the data for most influential woodworkers, it makes sense. A lot of the more popular woodworkers cut tails first and it is easier to fit a tenon to an incorrect mortice than to try and adjust the mortice to fit the tenon. It is the influence of the woodworkers they watch on RUclips. Neither is wrong if it works for you, I just think it is heavily influenced by the popular online woodworkers. Since most people do a lot of online research prior to starting a project it makes sense that it would correlate.
Nice survey. Always interesting to see the end results are.
The results are very interesting. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
So many people are WRONG!!!
so true. LOL
Hahaha 😂
However many are not opinionated.
Most people who disagree with me are wrong ;)
For the secondary bevel results. For me its just such a no fuss way to refresh an edge on a fine stone (10-20 strokes will do it). While I learned to sharpen freehand first, I was always bugged that you can ruin the main angle by becoming impatient and lifting the blade too much. Since I wanted to have a surefire way to have "factory setting" on my edges, I go with secondary bevel and I renew the primary once in blue moon (more than a year for most planes)
Everything interesting is down below; comments, links, Australia...
Good work!
Strangely found myself saying “ it depends” a lot 😅
Very enlightening!
As a professional woodworker for over 40 years and teaching now. I'm more surprised at the answers you are surprised by 🤔 Did you start out a tech guy or in Woodworking as a profession?
Because tech guys do look at things differently to time served woodworkers.
I have been a woodworker all my life. Over 35 years now.
I’m curious about sampling bias in regards to hand vs power tools. I watch your channel for hand tool work, and would imagine others do too. Of course if there were many power tool-centric channels who were sent the survey, that might change things.
That's what I was trying to do with getting other woodworkers in on it but very few other channels sent it to their audience. So there is a pretty strong bias between Rex's and my channel.
Funny enough, those are my two main channels right now.
Not going to lie, I genuinely feel that way about spreadsheets. I work with them every day and I'm constantly frustrated by people's inability to understand their uses!
Very interesting. Spreadsheets, but do they come with hospital corners?
Mostly hand tools, bit mixed. PVA as most used glue (epoxy is so much more expensive), diamond stones for the most part but I wish I could get CBN WHEELS for my turning tools (diamond cards for turning tool touch ups, and a cheap store bought maple bench (for now). Still just a hobbyist. That was interesting an interesting compilation. As far as videos on wood working; obviously Im on this channel, but also watch Paul S. and Rex K. But Id say boat building channels and wood turning are a larger portion of my video viewing (too many to name).
For the glue issue, I just don't see where epoxy is worth the hassle. Its big benefits are longer open time and gap filling. I have never really had an issue with working time of PVA even for complex projects and I try my best not to have significant gaps in my joinery. Hide glue isn't bad, but you typically have to keep it heated and while it's awesome sometimes that it can be removed with heat and water, I worry too much about what other people are going to put my projects through to trust it.
I find epoxy much easer to work work with. but I am odd for a lot of other reasons too.
I work on my back patio, so I guess my shop is 510 trillion square metres. And you should see the water feature I have in the middle.
I made my own 'vice' using T tracks screwed to the side of my bench.Flush with the top and bottom ( about 4 inches gap keeps things straight)I can clamp just about anything and any size,and can add more along the whole length of the bench if needed for a table top for example.A cheap and effective alternative. I can set it up on site with plywood and 2by4 in 10 mins also as a hold down on top of bench .Are there any other 'hacks' you discovered?
How did i miss this survey! Pretty interesting to see these results though
Great data.
Thanks.
PVA doesn't surprise me. I don't see why you would use epoxy except in the situations where it was needed (thermo setting expensive polymers) And PVA is very common. Thought it was interesting to see how much hide glue is used
PVA is cheap and really easy to find. I have a big jug of it from my local big box hardware store that I've been using for years. For a hobby woodworker, it's great. I like liquid hide glue too, but a small bottle of it costs as much as that big jug of PVA, I have to order it online, and the bottle goes bad in a year or so. I've considered epoxy for some projects, but I'm not made out of money.
@@sethgeorgson7775 Exactly my thoughts. Epoxy is costly and has to be mixed for each use. PVA is cheap and sits there ready when I need it. And it works.
I wonder how many people mis-read, or misunderstood, the question about the furniture finish? That result seems very counter-intuitive. Perhaps they were thinking of shop furniture?
Seems pretty much on point to me. Oil and wax are easy to apply, don't require special tools like a sprayer, don't have to worry about brush marks, and are cheap and readily available. Products like Rubio are expensive for the weekend woodworker so I see them primarily for special projects and RUclips influencers.
@@kmbbmj5857 All true, but oil and wax also don't provide much in the way of protection for your furniture.
As a very novice woodworker, I didn't know paste wax wasn't appropriate for furniture. I had seen in the description of the paste wax on the wood by wright shop, James said he uses soft wax for furniture: "The Soft wax is made from two parts Bees Wax, two parts Home Made Boiled Linseed Oil, and one part mineral spirits (White Spirits). They come in about 4 oz containers. You can wipe on a surface, let it harden, and then polish off the rest. I use this for furniture and the final shine for most finishes."
@@olekgierczak2494 Paste wax applied as the final finish is great on furniture. It makes a great furniture polish. But the point was that a simple Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) and paste wax finish just doesn't provide the protection that most people are going to want for their furniture. James has done several videos demonstrating and testing different finishes.
thanks
Because Titebond is broadly available, reasonably priced and offers gallon jug it’s a fav.
you can't beat the price.
Right.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo
Thanks for sharing that!
The price of tools may tilt things toward hand tools.
Thanks for sharing.
data analysis is sexy
Comment down below ;)
Comment to right of screen.
I'm completely surprised by your "I use Epoxy, not PVA" comment. I'd love to hear more about that. Got any videos i should check out?
I've done a bunch of test videos on different glues. And epoxy almost always comes out on top particularly in gap filling or anything at all with moisture or wood movement. It's far more forgiving and flexible. Not to mention it's got a large open time so you don't have to stress out when trying to glue things together. It's just a really simple glue that works in almost all applications. The only downside is it's a little more expensive. But when you buy it by the gallon it's not that much more.
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Comments down below.....
My guy
Video idea - using epoxy as adhesive. I kinda like it. But big issue is that it can wick into the wood and effect subsequent finish. Putting painters tape along the joint helps a little, but the epoxy will wick right under it. Sure, if it's a lap joint it's easy to sand out, but a inside corner, not so much.
This is a really good point. I use epoxy a lot when using a film finish and the end use will see a lot of abuse and or water. This allows me to use epoxy as a primer. Also pressing veneers with epoxy means that some epoxy will be on the surface and that mean that you must use epoxy as a primer.
Comment down below.
Soo... under "vices" how many people put things like cigarettes, drugs, etc.?🤣
That's interesting one. It can be spelled both ways in different traditions.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo yes, "vice" can refer to either, but I believe "vise" only refers to the clamping device. What's the saying? "One man's vice is another man's pleasure"?
7:55 Sara's cough?
one of my kids. 4 of the 5 of us are sick right now.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo that's sick 😷. get well soon.
Carl Schwarz ? 😀
algorithm 😅
Interprited? I always thort you're bad spelling was delibirit :)
it is a fun thing here on would buy rite. welcome to the inner circle!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Oh I see; like freemasons. Cool! Glad I haven't been blackballed then :)
uwogh first
congrats ! here's a cookie 🍪
@@katimaboy thank you I will eat this cookie with much delight
nice work on first!
1 min ago
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