@gjbmunc oh yes, this tip lead to figuring out tapping the side of the butt or nose to lateral adjust. Now I am almost as precise at adjusting my woods as my metal.
Between these videos and your books, you are sharing information with us that we aren’t going to get anywhere else. I can’t thank you enough, sir! PS I just watched the tango video. You’re a man of many secrets! 😉
Interesting. I have a few wooden planes made in the late Victorian period (UK). Henry Bessemer’s blast furnace revolutionised steel production, but it was difficult to control exact constituents of steel. A smaller, more controlled method of producing small amounts of steel was developed - the Siemens-Martin open hearth furnace method. The latter was especially suited to machine tools and plane irons. I good quality, late Victorian plane (sometimes early 20th century) iron usually has the symbol for an open hearth, an inverted ‘U’, stamped on it, often the maker’s name or logo is in this shape.
Thankyou Graham Blackburn, I love watching your videos. on my wood working journey from nothing to full blown electricity hater i come to view metal planes as big business, a scheme that eventually took the light away from the skill of wood workers making their own tools within the community, shout out to Stavros Gakos who makes his own wood planes and there's a book by John M Whelan on how to do so(free pdf online.) We shouldn't be hunting down old planes but rather be able to craft our own to the needs of each shop and sometimes even piece. the major complaint is time, but it doesn't seem to take much time at all for a skilled craftsmen. where we concern with time we forgo skill and knowledge. part of the dumbing down of America with the racquet of industrialization , slop the hog mentality was instilled in Westerners. I despise this, and point the blame to big business where scalability and greed devalued skilled journeymen and valuable traditions based not on survival or the opportunity cost of consumerism. not intending to take away from the education this video holds but i hope that new and fellow wood workers may have more faith and understanding that they can make a really nice wooden bench planes that work just as good as a spending hundreds of dollars( unless they spent no time making that money to each their own.)
Another great video Graham. As a proud resident of Ayr in Scotland I feel I must point out that your dovetail plane is by Stewart Spiers of Ayr as can be seen on the lever cap at 16.29. I believe that Spiers did make planes for Mathieson’s although Spiers marketing said if their name wasn’t on it, they didn’t make it. Spiers went bust in the 1920’s or early 30’s one of their last efforts being a very poor imitation of a Stanley Bailey plane. Mathiesons lasted a bit longer into the post war period. The dovetailed planes are wonderful pieces of work and great to use. Thanks again for the videos and the books.
Just bought my first wooden plane and it’s a Mathieson 17” and the iron is excellent, the wedge sound, the tote is a coarse replacement handmade jobbie and for the life of me, I couldn’t figure out why the rear had been clearly and repeatedly bashed. Thankyou Graham and I look forward to getting your book.
Great video Graham. 16:33 you stated not everyone agrees that the Stanley/Bailey pattern was an improvement with regard to adjustments and damage prevention. I’d like to hear your opinion of that aspect. Also interesting to hear that the corrugation on the sole was to prevent suction. I’d (only) heard it was to make it easier to plane highly resinous woods. I own a 4-1/2C and several flat soled planes. I don’t notice a difference. Keep the videos coming. You’re a fountain of knowledge.
Stanley/Bailey when introducing the metal plane, encountered some resistance bc owning and using a plane made out of metal...God forbid. Even though, as Graham mentioned the frog was a huge breakthrough. After the introduction, Stanley introduced transitional planes (metal upper and wooden sole). Therefore, marketing them as "the best of both worlds" till people became accustomed to the all metal plane. Graham you are a wealth of knowledge. I love your book!
Hi Graham, I cant tell you how good your videos are. They are so informative. Thank you so much for everything you do. Will you be doing any videos in the future of projects you've worked on?
The "Plane I must have" is usually the one I've just spotted in a junk shop or car-boot sale...! In practice I normally have a scrub plane, plus 2-3 each of jack, jointer and smoother on my bench, set to different depths of cut, so I can just switch between them rather than constantly setting and resetting the iron. Feels extravagant - but I didn't pay more than ten quid for any of them and they each have their own special feel.
I'd love to see you talk about the stanley "bedrock" line, which seems to be what the lie-nielsons are based on. As far as the adjustable frog, my little brain can't make sense of them. Because the bed of the frog is on an angle, the further forward you adjust them it forces the blade out, making for a deeper cut. By the time you retract the blade to compensate the mouth effectively goes back to being open again. I'm clearly missing something.
Hello Graham, I've recently moved to the US of A, from the UK and have been slowly building up my tool collection and fitting out my two-car garage as a new workshop. I bought a collection of 25 various wooden planes that are in great condition and all usable. I am keen to follow a more traditional way of woodworking and just came across your RUclips channel. The content is exceptional, I really appreciate the wooden plane adjustment tips as I was taught with metal planes. I've ordered the guide from the makers of American wooden planes.so that should help shed some light on what I have in my collection. A question, do you teach classes at all? Thanks
Yes. Go to my website (www.blackburnbooks.com) for info or try Airbnb Experiences for Woodstock NY. for more info, or simply feel free to call: 845-430-3417
I'm working my way through your videos and have learned a lot even though I've been plying this glorious hobby for nearly 20 years. I plan to spread the word, but especially to beginning woodworkers. One request: When you introduce a new tool or name or process, could you spell it out on your video. My hearing is not what it used to be and the auto-generated subtitles often don't get these things right. Thanks, Jeff
Always a pleasure to view and listen to your presentations Graham thank you for sharing your expertise; it makes owning my modest collection of handplanes more enjoyable.
Really good presentation on planes. I don't have many wooden planes but I do have several metal planes. I thought I knew a lot about planes but you brought some great insight on all types.
Hi Graham, love watching all you videos, very informative. One question. I have some old wooden planes that I have restored, & they work great. How do you set or lock in the iron? I usually tap on the wooden wedge to set it, then set the the depth by hitting the front or back of the plane. Is this ok to hit the wooden wedge or do I need to even do this?
Hello, been watching your videos for a while. Got some helpful tips. I have been give 3 moulding planes but they all have several woodworm holes. Would it be safe to use them without getting wordworm in my other planes?
Technically speaking flatness of a sole isn't a guarantee for a flatness/straightness of a piece. Ends of a piece tend to get more material removed, so too much planing or jointing without checking almost guarantees that the piece will be high in the middle.
I don't think he meant to imply that flat sole guarantees flat boards. He was saying that you cannot plane anything flatter than the sole. Obviously, employing subpar skills and gets subpar results regardless of sole flatness.
Planing a workpiece slightly longer than is needed is one way to address the 'curved' problem. But the real secret is how you hold the plane at the beginning and end of the stroke.
Good planeing technique is more likely to end up cupped than bowed if you over plane. Getting a bow is typically a technique issue with to much pressure heel entering the cut and to much on the toe when leaving the cut.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the tip on deepening the depth of cut by tapping the front of the plane. Every other plane video I have seen was always striking the iron.
Yes, that was a revelation for me too.
Very welcome!
@gjbmunc oh yes, this tip lead to figuring out tapping the side of the butt or nose to lateral adjust. Now I am almost as precise at adjusting my woods as my metal.
Enjoyed this one for sure. I have no trouble hearing you.
Good to hear!
Love my old wooden planes. Just something very satisfying in how a wooden plane glides across the work.
Me too!
Indeed the glide,the sharper than a razor sound and smooth as butter feel. Satisfaction....
Between these videos and your books, you are sharing information with us that we aren’t going to get anywhere else. I can’t thank you enough, sir!
PS I just watched the tango video. You’re a man of many secrets! 😉
Glad you like them!
Interesting.
I have a few wooden planes made in the late Victorian period (UK).
Henry Bessemer’s blast furnace revolutionised steel production, but it was difficult to control exact constituents of steel. A smaller, more controlled method of producing small amounts of steel was developed - the Siemens-Martin open hearth furnace method. The latter was especially suited to machine tools and plane irons.
I good quality, late Victorian plane (sometimes early 20th century) iron usually has the symbol for an open hearth, an inverted ‘U’, stamped on it, often the maker’s name or logo is in this shape.
Interesting. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing Graham. Your knowledge and "know how" are a treasure to us!
I appreciate that!
I’m beyond excited to spend five days with you at MASW this summer.
We'll have fun!
Thankyou Graham Blackburn, I love watching your videos. on my wood working journey from nothing to full blown electricity hater i come to view metal planes as big business, a scheme that eventually took the light away from the skill of wood workers making their own tools within the community, shout out to Stavros Gakos who makes his own wood planes and there's a book by John M Whelan on how to do so(free pdf online.) We shouldn't be hunting down old planes but rather be able to craft our own to the needs of each shop and sometimes even piece. the major complaint is time, but it doesn't seem to take much time at all for a skilled craftsmen. where we concern with time we forgo skill and knowledge. part of the dumbing down of America with the racquet of industrialization , slop the hog mentality was instilled in Westerners. I despise this, and point the blame to big business where scalability and greed devalued skilled journeymen and valuable traditions based not on survival or the opportunity cost of consumerism. not intending to take away from the education this video holds but i hope that new and fellow wood workers may have more faith and understanding that they can make a really nice wooden bench planes that work just as good as a spending hundreds of dollars( unless they spent no time making that money to each their own.)
Exactly!
Another great video Graham. As a proud resident of Ayr in Scotland I feel I must point out that your dovetail plane is by Stewart Spiers of Ayr as can be seen on the lever cap at 16.29. I believe that Spiers did make planes for Mathieson’s although Spiers marketing said if their name wasn’t on it, they didn’t make it. Spiers went bust in the 1920’s or early 30’s one of their last efforts being a very poor imitation of a Stanley Bailey plane. Mathiesons lasted a bit longer into the post war period. The dovetailed planes are wonderful pieces of work and great to use. Thanks again for the videos and the books.
Yes, of course, you're absolutely right. Thanks!
Just bought my first wooden plane and it’s a Mathieson 17” and the iron is excellent, the wedge sound, the tote is a coarse replacement handmade jobbie and for the life of me, I couldn’t figure out why the rear had been clearly and repeatedly bashed. Thankyou Graham and I look forward to getting your book.
Thanks! 😃
This video was one of first videos from you which l saw. At first l read "75 planes you must have". And l thouyght "Whoa, that's alot planes!"
You can never have too many!
Great video Graham. 16:33 you stated not everyone agrees that the Stanley/Bailey pattern was an improvement with regard to adjustments and damage prevention. I’d like to hear your opinion of that aspect. Also interesting to hear that the corrugation on the sole was to prevent suction. I’d (only) heard it was to make it easier to plane highly resinous woods. I own a 4-1/2C and several flat soled planes. I don’t notice a difference.
Keep the videos coming. You’re a fountain of knowledge.
Stanley/Bailey when introducing the metal plane, encountered some resistance bc owning and using a plane made out of metal...God forbid. Even though, as Graham mentioned the frog was a huge breakthrough. After the introduction, Stanley introduced transitional planes (metal upper and wooden sole). Therefore, marketing them as "the best of both worlds" till people became accustomed to the all metal plane. Graham you are a wealth of knowledge. I love your book!
Thanks. Early Stanleys helped in some respects. The much improved (and expensive Lie-Nielsens are better,) but I still prefer the wooden versions.
@@johnbuck477owning a well made transitional, I agree they are the best both. :)
The C series was a sort of a marketing gimmick. The only thing it really does is make edge work harder on thin boards.
Good video Graham. Could you move the mic to the top of the apron please. It would be easier to hear you. Thanks
Working on it!
Hi Graham, I cant tell you how good your videos are. They are so informative. Thank you so much for everything you do. Will you be doing any videos in the future of projects you've worked on?
I hope so.
i have a German wooden plane that has a metal strike button at it's back. Previously, before learnign about planes, I never knew why it was there
And now you do!
The "Plane I must have" is usually the one I've just spotted in a junk shop or car-boot sale...! In practice I normally have a scrub plane, plus 2-3 each of jack, jointer and smoother on my bench, set to different depths of cut, so I can just switch between them rather than constantly setting and resetting the iron. Feels extravagant - but I didn't pay more than ten quid for any of them and they each have their own special feel.
Very cool!
Ordered one of your books. RWB ❤🎉f
Hope you enjoy it!
I'd love to see you talk about the stanley "bedrock" line, which seems to be what the lie-nielsons are based on. As far as the adjustable frog, my little brain can't make sense of them. Because the bed of the frog is on an angle, the further forward you adjust them it forces the blade out, making for a deeper cut. By the time you retract the blade to compensate the mouth effectively goes back to being open again. I'm clearly missing something.
Start with the desired depth of iron and then adjust the mouth to the right gap!
@@gjbmunc but that desired depth will change as the frog moves (because the frog slides on an incline.)
It’s plane to see from your background that you are a real collector!
Just years of picking up things.
@@gjbmunc do you happen to pick up braces and auger bits as well?
Hello Graham, I've recently moved to the US of A, from the UK and have been slowly building up my tool collection and fitting out my two-car garage as a new workshop. I bought a collection of 25 various wooden planes that are in great condition and all usable. I am keen to follow a more traditional way of woodworking and just came across your RUclips channel. The content is exceptional, I really appreciate the wooden plane adjustment tips as I was taught with metal planes. I've ordered the guide from the makers of American wooden planes.so that should help shed some light on what I have in my collection.
A question, do you teach classes at all?
Thanks
Yes. Go to my website (www.blackburnbooks.com) for info or try Airbnb Experiences for Woodstock NY. for more info, or simply feel free to call: 845-430-3417
I'm working my way through your videos and have learned a lot even though I've been plying this glorious hobby for nearly 20 years. I plan to spread the word, but especially to beginning woodworkers. One request: When you introduce a new tool or name or process, could you spell it out on your video. My hearing is not what it used to be and the auto-generated subtitles often don't get these things right. Thanks, Jeff
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try to be more mindful of that.
Always a pleasure to view and listen to your presentations Graham thank you for sharing your expertise; it makes owning my modest collection of handplanes more enjoyable.
Great to hear!
Thank you great clip on planes.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for the information, very helpful. I enjoyed your class this past weekend.
You're very welcome!
I was surprised to learn you are based in Santa Cruz. I'm in San Juan Bautista.
Only part of the time...
Really good presentation on planes. I don't have many wooden planes but I do have several metal planes. I thought I knew a lot about planes but you brought some great insight on all types.
Good to hear.
Good to hear!
That was exceedingly informative!
You're very welcome!
thank you
You're welcome
You're welcome
Another Amazing Video! Thank you. 🇦🇺👴🏻
Glad you enjoyed it
Graham - these are excellent videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Can we get a shop tour video?
Maybe one day!
Looking forward to the video on jigs, thanks!
Coming soon!
thanks
You're welcome!
Thank you Sir.🎉
Most welcome
Hi Graham, love watching all you videos, very informative. One question. I have some old wooden planes that I have restored, & they work great. How do you set or lock in the iron? I usually tap on the wooden wedge to set it, then set the the depth by hitting the front or back of the plane. Is this ok to hit the wooden wedge or do I need to even do this?
Set the wedge reasonably firmly then carefully tap the iron in.
So could a person theoretically build a plane from wood for smoothing, but use a new modern steel?
Absolutely.
I found a wooden coffin shaped plane with a metal sole earlier. Special purpose or just unusual?
Was once a fairly common repair for remouthing.
Hello, been watching your videos for a while. Got some helpful tips. I have been give 3 moulding planes but they all have several woodworm holes. Would it be safe to use them without getting wordworm in my other planes?
Leave them in the freezer overnight.
Technically speaking flatness of a sole isn't a guarantee for a flatness/straightness of a piece. Ends of a piece tend to get more material removed, so too much planing or jointing without checking almost guarantees that the piece will be high in the middle.
I don't think he meant to imply that flat sole guarantees flat boards. He was saying that you cannot plane anything flatter than the sole. Obviously, employing subpar skills and gets subpar results regardless of sole flatness.
Planing a workpiece slightly longer than is needed is one way to address the 'curved' problem. But the real secret is how you hold the plane at the beginning and end of the stroke.
Good planeing technique is more likely to end up cupped than bowed if you over plane. Getting a bow is typically a technique issue with to much pressure heel entering the cut and to much on the toe when leaving the cut.
@@wehaveasaying flatness of the sole (for flat work) directly effects the ability to get a fine cut and handle against the grain.
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
thanks!