I found a full 46 with irons at an estate sale. I was the sole bidder $10. I didn't realize what I had until I cleaned and started researching. Some on Reddit say I could get $500 for it. Right now its to cool to sell.
I actually found a metal fence for one of rhese in a random auction box I purchased for $10 or $12. I didn't know what it was for until now. Haha. Nice! Thanks James!
I find the 46 substantially easier to push, far superior chip ejecting (and very few chip jambs) and makes straighter walls when rebating . Surprised you could hammer adjust the blade depth. The hold wedge either holds it really really well ( ie does not move with hammer, or is completely free. Found that if one slightly loosen the screw and lift the blade up, it break the wedge and allow small depth adjustment with the fingers, Handily this procedure also pushes the blade towards the internal corner- aligning the tip of blade with the nicker - critical for crossgrain rebating operations- which the plane does really well as long as one ensure the nicker bites before traversing. If your blade is nestled tote in the internal corner, I think the backs slope is closer to the Stanley specified 20° angle rather than the 22° mentioned. but not certain as ai freehand sharpen. But really it's the goto plane for most joinery operations. On softer woods it can keep up with a tailed router, pretty impressive. My one sits in ready to grab position with a wide blade in for rebating/tenoning operations- more common than Dados... Whoops essay but the it is favoured plane, it was relavention in what is possible with hand tools when I first obtained one,
I just got the Veritas combination plane, and after watching this video and the one about the 45, I see how Veritas took what they liked from both designs and made it into one fun plane :)
Very nice video. I must say that I like my 46's much better than I like my 45's. I have 1 46 with the 1/4" blade and then I have 1 with a very wide blade in it that essentially turns it into a moving fillister.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Wow, okay! Would you say the same of the 45 vs the veritas combo plane? I have managed to find a 45 but kinda drool at the thought of the veritas.
Between the Stanley and the veritas for the combination plane that can be a draw. That one kind of comes down to personal preference. As they feel very different.
What I want is a set of drawings for the irons so I can make my own. I've inherited a 45 and lots of folks want to see a full set, but I'm not sure I want a full set as I'm not to likely to use all of it: but if I had the prints, then I can make what I needed and that would both more fun and probably more economical.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo the 45 cutters have a slot and hole, which I could reverse engineer easily enough, but it would be nice to know what they were supposed to be. Are the 46 cutters really just that simple?
Hi Would you please do a short video on how to use the tonguing cutter on this beast?? I picked up a blade along with a 1/4 inch grooving cutter and would love to give it a try, but the tonguing cutter is giving me fits! Thank you!
I have only come across one combination plane. A 45 complete with all accessories in it's wooden box. I was new to this sport then and was very intimidated so I passed. Damnit!
Hi James, going off the 45 subject. Do you know anything about the stanley number 60 combo plane? I've looked everywhere but can't find anything great video. Many thanks, Lee 👍
You have me a bit confused as the number 60 is a block plane. Feel free to send me some pictures I'd be glad to take a look at it. My email is jameswright@woodbywright.com
They have sloping sides. I'm missing two (and the rear wing nut). But I've not enough confidence to get the side angles right. They aren't both the same - presumably a degree or two for clearence.
I spent $30 on mine. The irons I traded for. Making it is relatively simple just time consuming as the sides have to be beveled as well as the edge. and there are a couple people online who make and sell them.
@@WoodByWrightHowToThanks, and good to know. I have noted the availability of heat treatable steels online and they can be obtained in numerous thicknesses and I am rather handy with a grinder.
I just got a 46 with 10 irons that is pretty rough. Is there a way to take the rosewood off the handle so i can remove the rust by electrolysis? Also do you know when they stopped putting patent dates on? Mine has none.
I don't know about the patent dates. As to the handle, some have pins that go all the way through that you can tap out. But some the pins do not go all the way through and they can not be removed with our destruction.
I noticed a leather boot on your holdfast. I want to make one for my holdfast. Do you have any advice on the type of leather I should use, rough side or smooth out, and anything else that you think is useful? Thanks
It's all up to you. Some people like the rough side of some people like the smooth side out it really doesn't make any difference. As the leather and all depends on what you want to sew with. Usually the thicker the better.
Making those skewed irons yourself should not require that advanced metal working skills, just get some high carbon steel bar in the right thickness and cut them out, file the most of the material away for the bevel, heat treat and grind the rest of the bevel.
Only the inner side requires a bevel- the outer side can be square cut - woods for me, anyway. The bevel is a bit steeper that skew an angle - acts as a cutting edge to help keep rebate walls square.. cheers
Expanding slightly, when I made the bevels I used a cubitron flap disk high grit- bevel appeared in seconds. The refined the leading edge on may shaping stones. In did leave to sharp on edge on the upper part of the blades- paid a blood price for that as the finger rests on the one of the upper corners when planing- ouch..
I found a full 46 with irons at an estate sale. I was the sole bidder $10. I didn't realize what I had until I cleaned and started researching. Some on Reddit say I could get $500 for it. Right now its to cool to sell.
I can't believe you got it for just $10! I'm very jealous!
I was given one about 30 years ago from an OLD carpenter. It has a ton of irons and the fence!! Now I know what to do with it. Thanks!
I actually found a metal fence for one of rhese in a random auction box I purchased for $10 or $12. I didn't know what it was for until now. Haha. Nice! Thanks James!
I find the 46 substantially easier to push, far superior chip ejecting (and very few chip jambs) and makes straighter walls when rebating . Surprised you could hammer adjust the blade depth. The hold wedge either holds it really really well ( ie does not move with hammer, or is completely free. Found that if one slightly loosen the screw and lift the blade up, it break the wedge and allow small depth adjustment with the fingers, Handily this procedure also pushes the blade towards the internal corner- aligning the tip of blade with the nicker - critical for crossgrain rebating operations- which the plane does really well as long as one ensure the nicker bites before traversing. If your blade is nestled tote in the internal corner, I think the backs slope is closer to the Stanley specified 20° angle rather than the 22° mentioned. but not certain as ai freehand sharpen.
But really it's the goto plane for most joinery operations. On softer woods it can keep up with a tailed router, pretty impressive. My one sits in ready to grab position with a wide blade in for rebating/tenoning operations- more common than Dados...
Whoops essay but the it is favoured plane, it was relavention in what is possible with hand tools when I first obtained one,
Thanks for showing the sharpening, that helps.
Thanks for all the info, James! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks James. Great video. Probably should not have watched. After watching your videos with the 45 and 55, I now have them sitting in my workshop. :)
Thanks James, always enjoy learning about the history and evolution of vintage tools.
I just got the Veritas combination plane, and after watching this video and the one about the 45, I see how Veritas took what they liked from both designs and made it into one fun plane :)
Thank you Sir.🎉
I got a set of new irons from St. James Bay in Mesa,AZ many years ago.
Yup. He is still selling them on eBay.
Glad to see that you finally found the irons you were looking for!
Very nice video. I must say that I like my 46's much better than I like my 45's. I have 1 46 with the 1/4" blade and then I have 1 with a very wide blade in it that essentially turns it into a moving fillister.
I lucked out with my 46. Full set of cutters and the fence. LIke mine, yours looks like a type 2.
Love to see a head to head comparison between the 46 and the veritas skew plane!
The veritas is better in almost every respect except for price.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Wow, okay! Would you say the same of the 45 vs the veritas combo plane? I have managed to find a 45 but kinda drool at the thought of the veritas.
Between the Stanley and the veritas for the combination plane that can be a draw. That one kind of comes down to personal preference. As they feel very different.
Thanks James!
Thanks for sharing.
What I want is a set of drawings for the irons so I can make my own. I've inherited a 45 and lots of folks want to see a full set, but I'm not sure I want a full set as I'm not to likely to use all of it: but if I had the prints, then I can make what I needed and that would both more fun and probably more economical.
They are simple just 1/8 bar stock skewed to 22 degrees and the leading side is also beveled at 22 degrees.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo the 45 cutters have a slot and hole, which I could reverse engineer easily enough, but it would be nice to know what they were supposed to be. Are the 46 cutters really just that simple?
Yup. No slot as there is no adjustor. Just angled stock.
Hi
Would you please do a short video on how to use the tonguing cutter on this beast?? I picked up a blade along with a 1/4 inch grooving cutter and would love to give it a try, but the tonguing cutter is giving me fits! Thank you!
That is one cutter I don't have sorry
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you for the quick response! Much appreciated!
My 55 has that spur style, but sadly they are missing.
i would like to find a very early 46(i have a later one) it would look great next to my 41
I have only come across one combination plane. A 45 complete with all accessories in it's wooden box. I was new to this sport then and was very intimidated so I passed. Damnit!
Thanks for the great video
Hi James, going off the 45 subject. Do you know anything about the stanley number 60 combo plane? I've looked everywhere but can't find anything great video. Many thanks, Lee 👍
You have me a bit confused as the number 60 is a block plane. Feel free to send me some pictures I'd be glad to take a look at it. My email is jameswright@woodbywright.com
Hi James, it's ok now she's gone and sold it now. Thank you for getting back to me 😉
How much did you spend on your No. 46? Rather than buying irons, did you consider making your own?
They have sloping sides. I'm missing two (and the rear wing nut). But I've not enough confidence to get the side angles right. They aren't both the same - presumably a degree or two for clearence.
I spent $30 on mine. The irons I traded for. Making it is relatively simple just time consuming as the sides have to be beveled as well as the edge. and there are a couple people online who make and sell them.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Who?
@@WoodByWrightHowToThanks, and good to know. I have noted the availability of heat treatable steels online and they can be obtained in numerous thicknesses and I am rather handy with a grinder.
@@alangknowlesDo you have drawings?
As far as the irons go, could you just get straight irons for a 45 or similar, and resharpen them with a skew?
You gould, but you have to also be el the sides too.
Interesting video; thanks for making and posting it.
And, thanks for the “42” joke.
I SAW MY NAME! I SAW MY NAME!!!! Uh, thanks for that, too.
The Hitchhikers Guide to the Handtools! 😂
Very cool
I just got a 46 with 10 irons that is pretty rough. Is there a way to take the rosewood off the handle so i can remove the rust by electrolysis? Also do you know when they stopped putting patent dates on? Mine has none.
I don't know about the patent dates. As to the handle, some have pins that go all the way through that you can tap out. But some the pins do not go all the way through and they can not be removed with our destruction.
Cool tool
How hard would it be to make an iron for it?
Not terribly difficult but a little more time consuming than it would be for a 45. You have to bevel the sides as well as the edge.
So ok, I did the math, and 45 is my go-to sweet spot. I would like a Stanley 48 grooving plane. Hay, it's only 45+3, or something like that.
CDB❤
James, how many cutters are in a complete set? I seen a reproduction
It depends on what type age. There are 8 in the smallest set but over time they made a total of 12 irons for it.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo James what was / is the angle of the blade ? 22.5?
About 22°-ish. You can be off at a degree or two and still be okay and even more on the smaller irons.
... What do you get if you multiply six by nine?...
😊
Trout thanks that is a new name to me,he was definitely no wet fish
Neva hoid of it lol taught you wuzza pullin me leg
When I sharpen small blades like that I were bandades because I sharpen the skin off my fingers
I use to have that problem with water and oil stones, but I have not had it with diamonds
Ok,
You need to issue a Warning ⚠️, Warning ⚠️, Will Robinson! Before diving into these sorts of tools...
Bibs are needed to catch all the drule !!!
Missed this.... nice
No46 looking at 45, 50 and 55: We are even now.
Why did he like such odd width grooves?
I am not sure what you are saying. they came in 1/8" increments. but congrats on first!
There's no 3/4" nor 1"@@WoodByWrightHowTo
He's is a groovy guy!!
Oh lol I see what you are saying.
You would find that knife cutting first would help the cut across the grain less hairy !
I noticed a leather boot on your holdfast. I want to make one for my holdfast. Do you have any advice on the type of leather I should use, rough side or smooth out, and anything else that you think is useful? Thanks
It's all up to you. Some people like the rough side of some people like the smooth side out it really doesn't make any difference. As the leather and all depends on what you want to sew with. Usually the thicker the better.
Comment down below ;)
Lets have the 100% geek video! 🤓 😂
Comment down below
SO! Why not Strik a knife line on the cross grain?
You can. But you have to do it every single pass of the plane
DON'T PANIC
I refuse to panic. I have a towel!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo never forget to bring a towel
Or is the question. How much pocket money are you allowed to spend? But the only answer is 42 for sure. LOL.
Making those skewed irons yourself should not require that advanced metal working skills, just get some high carbon steel bar in the right thickness and cut them out, file the most of the material away for the bevel, heat treat and grind the rest of the bevel.
It's not complicated it's just a good bit of work as you also have to bevel the sides
Only the inner side requires a bevel- the outer side can be square cut - woods for me, anyway. The bevel is a bit steeper that skew an angle - acts as a cutting edge to help keep rebate walls square..
cheers
Expanding slightly, when I made the bevels I used a cubitron flap disk high grit- bevel appeared in seconds. The refined the leading edge on may shaping stones. In did leave to sharp on edge on the upper part of the blades- paid a blood price for that as the finger rests on the one of the upper corners when planing- ouch..
Comment down below