I want to see improvements to the Charybdis. I'm really interested in the touchpad mod for example. I agree that 6 columns is a waste. One thing I've been experimenting with are what I call combo mods, which solve an issue with home row mods. The idea is to press the home row mod key on both hands simultaneously and then keep the modifier active for as long as one of them is still depressed. This solves the issue of accidental activation and also the delay issue.
Thanks for the comment. Combo mods sound interesting. Have you looked into urob's timeless homerow mods? github.com/urob/zmk-config#timeless-homerow-mods
I like your idea of mods keys on two sides. Was thinking about trying homerow mods again, but they aren’t great for gaming unless you make separate layer. I do combo mods on the Charybdis mini (3x6) and have two keys for mods (ie f+g or h+j for shift). Also use one shot mod, so I can just tap the mod then the next key I tap is the key plus mod. Always great to hear what works for other people. @eigatech try the svalboard!
@@Chefcooken Have you considered adding a separate layer for gamin without home row mods and launching it using a macro? This is what I did on my Charybdis Nano and use it for gaming just fine. I had to use the thumb keys for frequently used Ctrl, Shift etc.
@@AlexChavezHome I wonder how the charybdis with the trackball would be for a game like WoW. I would need to bind clicking which is weird, but it seems crazy to keep my hands on my keyboard the entire time i was playing. The trackball would need to work well to mouse over unitframes and nameplates which requires some speed and accuracy...
Just ordered the parts for a Totem! Thank you so much for these redux designs. I think the hardest part of this is going to be getting my FDM prints to look halfway decent.
I finished building my totem a few months ago, and I can say it was the best choice I could’ve made. Didn’t care for the extra pinky keys at the time, but loved everything else about its design. After using it, I’ve found the extra pinky keys to be perfect. A full extra column for the pinky would be far too much, but a single extra key is *perfect* for modifiers or even common symbols I otherwise couldn’t have fit in the base layer (like semicolon, use that shit nonstop)
@@Mcdude22 I'm currently sitting at around 30 wpm with mine, still trying to nail down the right layout lol. I do think this is going to be great once I get used to it.
@@linewizard congrats on finishing the build! Did you go wireless? If you have questions about layout I’d be happy to try and help, I’ve tried quite a few designs, though mostly ones of my own creation, haven’t tried too much of the pre-designed options out there
@@Mcdude22 yes, wireless is so nice on this one!! I’m trying to keep it relatively standard. I used a Planck for a while, so I’m used to the small form factors, but the thumb cluster on my moon lander was too big for me to use it for anything other than a space bar. I’m not totally sold on the home row mods yet, either. Seems like I’m constantly holding the keys down for like 1ms too long and triggering them instead of the key I’m trying to type. I’m open to any suggestions though!
@@linewizard yeah, homerow mods take a while to get used to, you have you relearn to type, in my experience, training yourself to just tap keys and never linger on them. It’s brutal at first. Careful tuning of the timing helps. I moved away from them myself, I found that as I surpassed 50wpm they became a huge barrier to speed increases, though I’ve seen many type much faster with them, so perhaps my typing style is just particularly ill-suited to them. Regardless, I recently made the change to putting modkeys on the thumb keys, with a similar rule for the homerow mods where a tap is something like space, backspace, enter, etc, and a hold is the mod key. I found them far easier to work with down there, even with the mod/tap functionality, accuracy instantly became near-perfect for me. I have a dedicated space key, a dedicated layer key, and the other 4 thumb keys are mod/tap between mod keys and utility keys (enter, backspace, etc). The single layer key if tapped takes me to my numpad/symbol layer, and a hold just bring me to that layer until I release, so it’s pretty flexible. Other layers can be accessed on my layout through the num/sym layer, or by holding specific combos on the alpha layer that are hard to trigger by accident but easy to do on the fly. This is all the best compromise I’ve yet found between easy layer access, and avoiding homerow mods. Keeping track of your layout and where you are in it with regards to layers is a bit intense, due to the slightly complex nature of how I’ve setup layer navigation, but as I get used to it that mental overhead has gone away almost entirely, so I’m quite happy with my setup
I'm currently using a cheapino. I absolutely love it. I'm so happy I got into ergo mech keyboards. I wanted to say thank you, as a bunch of your videos helped me make this decision.
I feel the Charybdis is really meant to be used with steep tents, such as the optional 30 degree tents. Then all keys are easier to reach, and the trackball's cylindrical holder is exactly vertical rather than tilted inwards. I'm a fan of the big 6x4 Charybdis, and prefer it over any other ergonomic keyboards I own(ed), such as the Kinesis Advantage 360 (wired non-pro), MoErgo Glove80, ErgoDox, Moonlander, Sofle, Voyager, TrulyErgonomic, KeyboardIO. This list is in order of my preference, favorites first.
Thank you for the comparison. My journey has been as follows: Corne > Ferris Sweep > ChocoFi > Rollow > Charybdis Nano (Static Bearing Mod ) + 15 degree tenting legs. Having used all these keyboards for multiple months, I find the Charybdis Nano the most comfortable and ergonomic of all and what I would consider my end game. Having key wells and the pinky stagger, along with a 20 degree (15 tent + 5 built in) is in my opinion the perfect hand position. The only challenge as you mentioned is that it's takes some care when transporting to the office (fortunately it fits in my laptop backpack).
Interesting how you went from Corne to low profile and then to the Charybdis. Anything in particular with the low profile keybs that turned you away from them?
@@EIGAtech While using the Corne and subsequent low profile keyboards was amazing. I was using strictly Choc Low Profile - Pink which are very light, and felt scratchy (it was not enjoyable). I was making accidental mistakes because with the transition to split ergo, I also switched to Colemak DH (more recently to Canaly with the Charybdis); so my muscle memory has been lacking. Having a split keyboard allowed me to place my MX Ergo trackball mouse in between the keyboard halves nicely. Later on I noticed how much often I had to move my hand away from the keyboard to navigate the mouse. I loved the idea of having the pointing device as part of the keyboard; so I built a Dilemma which has a round trackpad with lubbed MX Brown switches that felt better for typing. Unfortunately, I could not get used to the sensitivity and small trackpad surface. The Charybdis nano with an integrated trackball worked flawlessly even better than I had imagined. There is a scroll feature that I can't live without and use it quite frequently, it's like using the scroll wheel on your mouse but using the trackball instead which is so smooth and scrolling through sites and lists is a breeze. I apologize for the long response. Thanks for asking 😊
Oh my, what a perfect timing! I've been printing the original totem case and came very very close to redesigning it because it is so annoying to print on FDM with the massive amount of support it needs in difficult to remove places... I'll definitely check this out. Looks amazing too!
Just wanna say thank you for all the work you and VOID have done. I happen to own the exact same 3 keyboards as you: Corne, Totem, and Wireless Charydbis, with your channel introducing me to the latter 2. And now that I have my own 3d printer, you got me wanting to make a totem redux as well!
Also regarding the modifiers and mouse keys on the Charydbis, home row mods plus mouse buttons on combos are pretty good. So I will activate modifiers on the homerow on my right hand and then use my left click combo on the left hand (d & f on a qwerty layout). I love this way of doing things so much I have added it to my Totem as well to use with my standalone trackball.
Thanks for this return from experience. I am still looking for a split ergo keyboard with a FINGER trackball. That's my contribution to questions. But looking forward to see a video on the KLORE as well.
Wherever you are someday when I’m medically unlocked and able to travel again I’m sitting down for a brunch or lunch with you both; my treat. Lots of love and thanks for sharing. You’re making my creative dead side comeback alive and itch to make one.
@@EIGAtech God help me get out and there maybe next year.. I might try to work on a combo of some of your builds later this year if health permits. Hope it won’t be too much of bother if I reach out to you for help.
Kailh choc pink: last year I took some reds and put 15g springs in them because I wanted lighter keys (was 50g) and I was feeling a little crazy... And I am 100% sold. Particularly for low travel distance, light springs are fantastic. They do indeed take some getting used to, but wow. So much less tiring and less-hard bottoming out.
The totem redux looks great! Removing supports on the original was time consuming, and it took a fair amount of post processing to get everything to fit properly.
As someone who is also using a Corne, I completely agree that it's point of weakness is in the column stagger. To me the pinky column always feels awkward and slow, like walking on very uneven ground. In fact, after nearly a year of using the Corne I have not able to get back to my normal typing speed. Thanks for the video, I'm super happy I learned about the Totem from your videos.
@@EIGAtech I would but I'd rather play with the design a bit, then make my own. I have a project in kicad where I added two more keys to the outer pinky column and moved the thumb cluster outward.
EIGA, VOID, great work! I am looking forward for your KLOR build. I'd like to make a few special requests (perhaps they fit into your plans): Please make a low profile wireless build with the intention of maximum batterylife (idc if there would be a heavy battery in it, but it should have power for a week minimum). An indepth build process by VOID would be also great. You did a super nice SLS case for the Corne with tilting capabilities, it would be great to see it with the KLOR again (perhaps a new twist to it?). And can you show the total costs of the whole build?? I am going to build this thing too and I'll hope I can learn from you. All the best and keep up the good work guys!
i built the mx and lp corne and i prefer the mx. i can type a few wpm faster on the lp but the typing experience is more pleasant on the mx. also no problem with wrist twisting, your pinkies look way larger than mine xD
In a month its the 4th year anniversary for my Southpaw's Centromere Mini. I have spring-swapped (35g i think) Red Pro switches in it, although the quiet ones you mentioned in the video look really sweet. Still, the LP switches don't make that much sound to begin with. This keyboard was the first custom keyboard I bought. I took the plunge to 36 keys straight away with the intent to use the colemak dh layout from Miryoku on an unique device so that layouts wouldnt get mixed. In a month it was usable for dailydriving and in a year I had written my CS masters thesis with it. Until now it has served me so well that I find it hard to justify buying another one. I always thought that this is going to be the "gateway keyboard" to more and more experiments but that has not happened. Why am I writing this? Because I really liked your line "its not minimalism for minimalism sake; it just makes sense", and wholeheartedly agree with it when looking back at my last few years keyboarding with my Centromere.
That's interesting, that you knew what you wanted from the get go, went for it, and stuck with it. Sounds like you really knew what you wanted from a keyboard. In my case, if making RUclips videos wasn't a thing I may have never gone beyond the Corne, or it may have taken me much longer to do so.
Would love to see you incorporate the trackpad mod that has been made for the QMK wired variant of the Totem to your wireless build. Also try the black choc switches which are silent pinks
I'd love an extra row totem! I can't live without my dedicated numbers, and have been looking into the Sofle as the answer. I really like the splaying of the keys on the Totem though.
I just got a Glove80 with pro reds, programmed it down to just three rows of 6 columns and the thumb keys with home row mods. I’m loving it. The totem looks amazing! But I’m really enjoying the glove’s concavity.
I am using the glove80 but without home row mods. What do you put on your thumb cluster? my modifiers, space, enter, backspace, and escape are there currently.
@@trench6118 It’s a generous cluster so I’m using it with the following layout (left to right) Left Top: Backspace, Delete, To layer down Left bottom: momentary layer up, momentary layer down, tab Right top:To Layer up, return, space Right bottom: Insert, momentary layer down, momentary layer up
I have a wireless Corne LP from Typeractive, and while I already knew I'd have to make some sacrifices when using it for gaming - Simply the fact that it's wireless through bluetooth, introduces tiny input delay. The input delay is not noticable when doing anything else, but in fps games it's very noticable. I still use the wireless Corne with my Macbook, since it's amazing for programming and with it being super transportable, it's definitely not a wasted purchase. That being said, I'm probably gonna invest in a wired Corne for my PC - Although I have been eyeing the Dactyl with a 3x6 layout and 3 thumb buttons on each side, just a more ergonomic Corne essentially.
Interesting that the bluetooth lag was noticeable, I haven't had any issues (other than some instances of connection dropping out entirely). I don't play competitive games, but recently I've been using the TOTEM for single player games and it's super responsive and the connection is rock solid with the dongle.
@@EIGAtech It might be the nicenanos because they aren't 2.4ghz - I might also notice it a bit more, because I've played comp fps since I was a kid. I don't think I'd notice it as much in a singleplayer game either. My dongle is like 40cms from the keyboard and there's no issues otherwise, it's just a tiny bit input lag I'll feel when stutter stepping in CS or doing anything movement related, especially when compared to my wired Alice KB. Changing ports make no difference, but I usually use the higher speed ones. Maybe if it was 2.4ghz I wouldn't feel any difference to a wired, since gaming mice use that as well.
Remember, you can still use your wireless Corne in wired mode. The default keymap includes a toggle for wired and wireless. That should eliminate the input lag while gaming.
Sorry for writing a second comment, but I just had a thought. If you make the Charybdis mod with the touchpad, it could have the touchpad on both sides, which would allow to have all the advanced multi-touch features that we know from laptops and mobile phones. Like pan and zoom, scrolling and gestures.
Apart from depending on the firmware, you'd also have ti think about how to handle conflicting inputs when touching both pads at the same time. That seems like it'd be a nightmare too lol
Good angles, you can definitely see the layer lines IRL if you look for them, but I tuned the prints quite a bit to get them to look as good as they do.
@@EIGAtech Which filament are you using? I really like the orange/green color scheme but all the filaments I see are way too vibrant. I'm looking for something more muted like you have.
Hi Eiga, I want to print the Totem in resin as I prefer the finish. Can I ask whether you would recommend the Totem or Totem Redux in this case? You briefly mentioned that the Redux felt more solid, but I’d love to hear your thoughts. Thanks! :) Also, while watching this video, I realised I was already subscribed, but didn’t recognise your channel name. I soon remembered I had binged a lot of your SFF content a few weeks prior, haha. Keep up the great work, man - I really enjoy your style of videos. Very much looking forward to the Klor build!
Thank you and thanks for the sub. I worry sometimes that the SFF and keyb niches don’t overlap so I’m happy to see there are others like me out there. As for the prints, I would go for the OG Totem printed in resin as you cannot go wrong with that and it probably comes out cheaper than 3 parts per side. Plus with resin you can print complex keycaps like the Chicago Stenos in my original Totem video.
Looking forward to the Klor video, though the squarish design of the totem and Klor bother me a little :) I'm not likely going to build either of these in the near future (until I feel a need to learn to solder and someone who's into 3d printing), I'm perfectly happy with the Dygma Defy (and it has just enough keys to use it for gaming also).
@@EIGAtech they're mixed MX and low profile, so it's not that bad with reach/ergonomics. The hardest part is trying to find uses for them all, I use 3 in my day job, but it's nice for a gaming config when you don't use the right half (space, enter, mods, PTT, +2).
I've been eyeballing Klor keyboard repository for quite time now. And it looks quite awesome. Too bad there is are no available kits for it, at least not in Europe, with resin print case.
We need a SplitKeyb with: - Staggered Columnar layout with **Adjustable Splay Angle** - with **Hall Effect** switches for Wooting-like actuation and SOCD - with modular options for Thumb: *Controller THUMBSTICK like RazerAzeron* || Trackball like Chrybdis || ThumbCluster - with Adjustable Rotation with Legs and Joint to separate Cluster's angle.
I wish RUclips had a notifcation level above "All"/push notifications. Your channel is one of about 5 where I /NEVER/ want to miss a video To that end, do you have a mailing list or similar?
Have you considered joining the two halves with a rigid bridge? After having moved one or both, placing them in front of you again in the right position and orientation seems like one of those things that would get annoying after a while. I'm also somewhat surprised that I rarely see custom keyboards with negative tilt and palm rests. Maybe it's only valued highly by folks like myself with weak arms from old repetitive stress injuries.
Hey, this might be a long shot, but is there any chance for making a video about building and setting up dongles? I'm currently building a wireless kyria from split.kb, and I would love to extend my battery life with a dongle setup. Extra points if the dongle includes a screen. Anyway, really great videos! Very fun to watch.
Those Totem builds are great! I'd been hesitant on building my own split keyboard since I have a Voyager that works well, but the dongle setup plus the FDM-friendly case & keycaps pushed me to finally give it a go. This is my first electronics project, so it's been a learning process. I'm 99% done, but I'm having trouble with the dongle. I can get the left OR the right side to connect to the dongle, but I cannot figure out how to get BOTH sides to connect at the same time. It seems like once one half is connected, the dongle won't pick up any more connections. Does it matter which version of the nRF52840 I used? I didn't catch a shot of the components used in these updated builds so I followed your last TOTEM video which looked like it was using the regular nRF52840. Looking at the descriptions on the Seeed site, it seemed like the nRF52840 Sense mostly just included sensors that didn't seem necessary for this project. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
it seemed the Charybdis was a different project. It's not fine tuning something. If I can, I'd like to build a split where it has 2+ of these 'mouse stand-ins.' It may be that on-hand optionality is needed for our hands to have an all-in-one keyboard/mouse/scroller.
Can you make a video about the print settings and filaments? Or GitHub or something? I really want to be able to reproduce that “rough” sandpaper-like finish and avoid layer lines etc.
The rough texture you see is entirely from the textured PEI surface of my printer, but it's only on the first layer. You can achieve a rougher finish all over the print by using a "filled" filament with carbon fibers or glass fibers, but this also requires a hardened nozzle to print.
Great content and camera work... A question for you. Can you expand on the point you made about the pinkie being better suited to the Totem vs the Corne. I thought the rotated pinkie key would be harder to reach ?
Thanks! On the TOTEM the columns underneath the ring and pinkie fingers are shifted down more aggressively and rotated (splayed) compared to the Corne, this makes reaching keys on those columns a lot easier, but it takes some getting used to at first.
@@bradd5961 the wired version of the TOTEM which uses rp2040 Xiao controllers can totally get ported to VIAL, if it hasn't been done already. for the wireless TOTEM though you'd have to set up a github config repository, and the best alternative to VIAL, at least for the time being, is a community project called ZMK Keymap Editor. it's a visual editor that simplifies things a bit, but any changes to the keymap or behaviors require a firmware rebuild and reflash. ZMK Studio which is a fully fledged piece of software similar to VIAL is currently in the works, with a planned release later this year.
honestly i see myself subbing only if you go in depth about the soldering and building stage as a whole, the focus on the finshed product is nice, but your videos always feel like there si a huge piece missing.
Amazing video, thanks! I am trying to print the MOTE keycaps from JL3DP and am not able to. How did you print it? I am getting this error " The minimum build size for ABS is 3.00x3.00x1.00cm, please change the material." It's the same error for any of the FDM materials (ABS, PLA, ASA) Please help!
The TOTEM Redux project and the MOTE keycaps are intended for FDM printing at home, if you're ordering from JLC then you might as well make use of their resin printing or SLS/MJF printing process to print sculpted keycaps like the Chicago Stenos: github.com/infused-kim/kb_keycaps_chicago_stenographer
Ah I see- thanks yeah that makes sense. Although these don't look as good or have varying heights so that they are more ergonomic like the MOTEs. I guess this is the only option
It's done in slicer by adding a height range modifier of about 3-4 layers, then setting no top/bottom layers for that modifier, and using Hilbert Curve infill and playing with the infill percentage and number of perimeters/walls (3-4). You can use other infill patterns as well to get other effects.
Can the totem be tilted somehow? Ive found that i prefer my split kb a little bit more tilted towards the outside to bring my wrist into a more neutral positik.
Sure, the general idea is: 1. right click on the model - add a height range modifier from 0 to a couple of layers (e.g. 0.8) 2. select the height range modifier 3. change walls to 3-4 4. change bottom layers to 0 5. choose infill type Hilbert curve (or any other) 6. play with infill percentage to get the desired effect
TBH the sound of that totem keyboard is kind of horrible...😅 Sorry to say that but that' not even comparable to, let's say, the HHKB. The look instead is amazing, the fact that you 3d print it completely is even better!. With so few keys don't you find yourself slowed down? Especially when I code I find myself typing lots of symbols and brackets... plus the F1-12 keys for debugging are not there if you go below 70% ANSI keyboards... And i need already need to use the international dead-key combos for typing the "àèéìòù" when i am typing in italian... going to just 38 keys feels like I will lose quite an amount of speed.
Yeah the sound is... something you get used to, even with the best switches it's a long way away from the feel of even midrange MX switches. But you do get used to it and enjoy it for different reasons. Regarding the number of keys, it's funny, I'm currently using a 60% keyboard just to see what it's like again, and to be honest, I find that I prefer less keys. With the TOTEM my hands stay roughly in the same position and everything is within reach by using layers. Of course, it takes a while to build up the muscle (and brain) memory of where everything is and on which layer, but I came to really prefer it. You can also get really creative with layer behaviors, combos, tap dance. The sky is the limit on how much you can customize it make it work for you, but you do have to put in the time and deal with the initial frustration.
@EIGAtech I see! Thanks! so I suppose that this implies that after building the muscle memory you reached the same typing speed you had on a full QWERTY keyboard, in words per minute
Hey! That effect is achieved in the slicer: add a height range modifier for the first 4 layers or so, then set top and bottom layers to 0, perimeters to 4 and infill type to hilbert curve and play with the density percentage.
Interesting that the Corne's outer columns make you twist your wrist. Do you think that's due to bad typing posture or habits? Because I also have a Corne and type with my hands hovering in the air, like a piano player, and I move my entire arm (keeping my wrists straight) to type the outer column keys. I haven't had any pain issues yet after 9 months of use thankfully.
No doubt posture / technique is a part of it. The hover technique is interesting, and I have seen/heard others use it. Do you use tactile / silent tactile switches?
I think I’ll look into this, currently I use a normal low profile keyboard, Logitech Craft. Should I start with a mechanical keyboard first or this? Seems a bit intimidating.
Hmm, it depends on your frustration tolerance for more or less hard resetting your typing muscle memory. Ask yourself the following: 1. Do you have the time for it (allow 2-3 weeks of initial adjustment)? 2. Do you find ergo split keybs appealing? 3. Are you willing to customize your keymap and tailor it to your use case (set up layers and memorize them)? 4. Is touch typing something you want to get better at? 5. Are you dissatisfied with your current keyboard? If the answer to all of those questions is yes AND you accept that there will be compromises to be made, then I say you go for it and enjoy the challenge!
I go into more detail on how my layers are set up in each individual video I did on these keyboards. For the TOTEM, you can check them out here: ruclips.net/video/YwsutNf1WRA/видео.htmlsi=p7Ysd4IafEtfyXL0&t=580
unfortunately not, the wireless version of the charybdis is very much diy and experimental, bastard keyboards is selling only wired ones. but if you're interested in a wireless ergo split w/ integrated trackball, and you're flexible regarding the design, look up wylderbuilds. they have a variety of keyboards that might suit your needs.
Amazing style and content, i absolutely agree with your points. I also build the skeletyll wireless and love it. But currently building a new complete custom one with own pcb. If you are interested on a collab, let me know. Would love to get your input their. Also amazing style, love it!! Keep pushing :) And the klor looks amazing o.O
@@EIGAtech Not yet no, i am currently on the PCB design and will create a video as soon as i have my first prototype/keyboard running But happy to share first drafts directly
I would like to know, how do you do a one left-handed (ctrl+c) for copy with the homerow mods? i tried switching d/f but then paste becomes an issue. Any advice?
Home row mods are present on both sides, in this case you would use the ones on the right half. I do have CTRL as an additional key on the thumb cluster as I use it very frequently. You can also look into combos where you would press two keys simultaneously to trigger a desired action (e.g X+C and C+V)
If anything your video convinced me it is not worth doing unless you plan to solder/build other things in the future - even if you save like 100 euros at a low hourly rate of 30e/h you are in the red if it took more than 3 hours per keyboard - getting it assembled by someone who does that for a living without the gaps is a bargain. if you are a youtuber/or interested in this it is a different story
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Updated zmk-config repo with dongle sample configs with for all the keyboards in this video: github.com/eigatech/zmk-config
This is some of the best quality split ergo keyboard content ever. Please keep posting stuff like this.
Thank you, we will definitely do so!
I want to see improvements to the Charybdis. I'm really interested in the touchpad mod for example. I agree that 6 columns is a waste. One thing I've been experimenting with are what I call combo mods, which solve an issue with home row mods. The idea is to press the home row mod key on both hands simultaneously and then keep the modifier active for as long as one of them is still depressed. This solves the issue of accidental activation and also the delay issue.
Thanks for the comment. Combo mods sound interesting. Have you looked into urob's timeless homerow mods? github.com/urob/zmk-config#timeless-homerow-mods
I like your idea of mods keys on two sides. Was thinking about trying homerow mods again, but they aren’t great for gaming unless you make separate layer. I do combo mods on the Charybdis mini (3x6) and have two keys for mods (ie f+g or h+j for shift). Also use one shot mod, so I can just tap the mod then the next key I tap is the key plus mod. Always great to hear what works for other people.
@eigatech try the svalboard!
@@Chefcooken Have you considered adding a separate layer for gamin without home row mods and launching it using a macro? This is what I did on my Charybdis Nano and use it for gaming just fine. I had to use the thumb keys for frequently used Ctrl, Shift etc.
@@AlexChavezHome I wonder how the charybdis with the trackball would be for a game like WoW. I would need to bind clicking which is weird, but it seems crazy to keep my hands on my keyboard the entire time i was playing. The trackball would need to work well to mouse over unitframes and nameplates which requires some speed and accuracy...
I've been building a dilemma max from bastard keyboards with a touchpad. I'm pretty excited about it, but I've not finished making it yet.
Just ordered the parts for a Totem! Thank you so much for these redux designs. I think the hardest part of this is going to be getting my FDM prints to look halfway decent.
I finished building my totem a few months ago, and I can say it was the best choice I could’ve made. Didn’t care for the extra pinky keys at the time, but loved everything else about its design. After using it, I’ve found the extra pinky keys to be perfect. A full extra column for the pinky would be far too much, but a single extra key is *perfect* for modifiers or even common symbols I otherwise couldn’t have fit in the base layer (like semicolon, use that shit nonstop)
@@Mcdude22 I'm currently sitting at around 30 wpm with mine, still trying to nail down the right layout lol. I do think this is going to be great once I get used to it.
@@linewizard congrats on finishing the build! Did you go wireless?
If you have questions about layout I’d be happy to try and help, I’ve tried quite a few designs, though mostly ones of my own creation, haven’t tried too much of the pre-designed options out there
@@Mcdude22 yes, wireless is so nice on this one!! I’m trying to keep it relatively standard. I used a Planck for a while, so I’m used to the small form factors, but the thumb cluster on my moon lander was too big for me to use it for anything other than a space bar. I’m not totally sold on the home row mods yet, either. Seems like I’m constantly holding the keys down for like 1ms too long and triggering them instead of the key I’m trying to type. I’m open to any suggestions though!
@@linewizard yeah, homerow mods take a while to get used to, you have you relearn to type, in my experience, training yourself to just tap keys and never linger on them. It’s brutal at first. Careful tuning of the timing helps. I moved away from them myself, I found that as I surpassed 50wpm they became a huge barrier to speed increases, though I’ve seen many type much faster with them, so perhaps my typing style is just particularly ill-suited to them.
Regardless, I recently made the change to putting modkeys on the thumb keys, with a similar rule for the homerow mods where a tap is something like space, backspace, enter, etc, and a hold is the mod key. I found them far easier to work with down there, even with the mod/tap functionality, accuracy instantly became near-perfect for me. I have a dedicated space key, a dedicated layer key, and the other 4 thumb keys are mod/tap between mod keys and utility keys (enter, backspace, etc). The single layer key if tapped takes me to my numpad/symbol layer, and a hold just bring me to that layer until I release, so it’s pretty flexible.
Other layers can be accessed on my layout through the num/sym layer, or by holding specific combos on the alpha layer that are hard to trigger by accident but easy to do on the fly.
This is all the best compromise I’ve yet found between easy layer access, and avoiding homerow mods. Keeping track of your layout and where you are in it with regards to layers is a bit intense, due to the slightly complex nature of how I’ve setup layer navigation, but as I get used to it that mental overhead has gone away almost entirely, so I’m quite happy with my setup
The charybdis was what made me subscribe lol that build is still hella insane
Thank you for the praise and all your work 🙇♂️
Happy to return the favor, great work on the guide!
I'm currently using a cheapino. I absolutely love it. I'm so happy I got into ergo mech keyboards. I wanted to say thank you, as a bunch of your videos helped me make this decision.
That's awesome, thanks for watching!
I feel the Charybdis is really meant to be used with steep tents, such as the optional 30 degree tents. Then all keys are easier to reach, and the trackball's cylindrical holder is exactly vertical rather than tilted inwards.
I'm a fan of the big 6x4 Charybdis, and prefer it over any other ergonomic keyboards I own(ed), such as the Kinesis Advantage 360 (wired non-pro), MoErgo Glove80, ErgoDox, Moonlander, Sofle, Voyager, TrulyErgonomic, KeyboardIO. This list is in order of my preference, favorites first.
Thank you for the comparison. My journey has been as follows: Corne > Ferris Sweep > ChocoFi > Rollow > Charybdis Nano (Static Bearing Mod ) + 15 degree tenting legs. Having used all these keyboards for multiple months, I find the Charybdis Nano the most comfortable and ergonomic of all and what I would consider my end game. Having key wells and the pinky stagger, along with a 20 degree (15 tent + 5 built in) is in my opinion the perfect hand position. The only challenge as you mentioned is that it's takes some care when transporting to the office (fortunately it fits in my laptop backpack).
Interesting how you went from Corne to low profile and then to the Charybdis. Anything in particular with the low profile keybs that turned you away from them?
@@EIGAtech While using the Corne and subsequent low profile keyboards was amazing. I was using strictly Choc Low Profile - Pink which are very light, and felt scratchy (it was not enjoyable). I was making accidental mistakes because with the transition to split ergo, I also switched to Colemak DH (more recently to Canaly with the Charybdis); so my muscle memory has been lacking. Having a split keyboard allowed me to place my MX Ergo trackball mouse in between the keyboard halves nicely. Later on I noticed how much often I had to move my hand away from the keyboard to navigate the mouse. I loved the idea of having the pointing device as part of the keyboard; so I built a Dilemma which has a round trackpad with lubbed MX Brown switches that felt better for typing. Unfortunately, I could not get used to the sensitivity and small trackpad surface. The Charybdis nano with an integrated trackball worked flawlessly even better than I had imagined. There is a scroll feature that I can't live without and use it quite frequently, it's like using the scroll wheel on your mouse but using the trackball instead which is so smooth and scrolling through sites and lists is a breeze. I apologize for the long response. Thanks for asking 😊
thanks for my RUclips suggestions that recommended me this great channel!
Great video, so much effort, hardwork!!! ❤❤❤
Thank you!
Thanks
Thanks a lot! 🖤
Oh my, what a perfect timing! I've been printing the original totem case and came very very close to redesigning it because it is so annoying to print on FDM with the massive amount of support it needs in difficult to remove places... I'll definitely check this out. Looks amazing too!
Just wanna say thank you for all the work you and VOID have done. I happen to own the exact same 3 keyboards as you: Corne, Totem, and Wireless Charydbis, with your channel introducing me to the latter 2. And now that I have my own 3d printer, you got me wanting to make a totem redux as well!
Also regarding the modifiers and mouse keys on the Charydbis, home row mods plus mouse buttons on combos are pretty good. So I will activate modifiers on the homerow on my right hand and then use my left click combo on the left hand (d & f on a qwerty layout). I love this way of doing things so much I have added it to my Totem as well to use with my standalone trackball.
So lovely to see the sparks igniting so many peoples creative side. I hope someday I can make one and maybe have a 3D printer.
Thanks for this return from experience. I am still looking for a split ergo keyboard with a FINGER trackball. That's my contribution to questions. But looking forward to see a video on the KLORE as well.
Wherever you are someday when I’m medically unlocked and able to travel again I’m sitting down for a brunch or lunch with you both; my treat. Lots of love and thanks for sharing. You’re making my creative dead side comeback alive and itch to make one.
Thanks for the comment!
@@EIGAtech God help me get out and there maybe next year.. I might try to work on a combo of some of your builds later this year if health permits. Hope it won’t be too much of bother if I reach out to you for help.
Hard- (and hand-) wired BastardKB Skeletyl and flashed it with Miryoku on QMK and can't praise it enough
Kailh choc pink: last year I took some reds and put 15g springs in them because I wanted lighter keys (was 50g) and I was feeling a little crazy...
And I am 100% sold. Particularly for low travel distance, light springs are fantastic.
They do indeed take some getting used to, but wow. So much less tiring and less-hard bottoming out.
The totem redux looks great! Removing supports on the original was time consuming, and it took a fair amount of post processing to get everything to fit properly.
As someone who is also using a Corne, I completely agree that it's point of weakness is in the column stagger. To me the pinky column always feels awkward and slow, like walking on very uneven ground. In fact, after nearly a year of using the Corne I have not able to get back to my normal typing speed. Thanks for the video, I'm super happy I learned about the Totem from your videos.
Thanks for the comment! Will you try out the Totem?
@@EIGAtech I would but I'd rather play with the design a bit, then make my own. I have a project in kicad where I added two more keys to the outer pinky column and moved the thumb cluster outward.
@@justin-encan you share the repo? I am looking for something like the 6 col corne but better pinky reach.
I'm working on it... I'll share a repo in a couple of days.
Love your videos and builds! Can't wait to see more! ❤
Thanks for the continued support!
Ha, I am a totem user myself! And i have the exact same switch story like you 😅
Totem is so sexy. I love the small footprint.
EIGA, VOID, great work! I am looking forward for your KLOR build. I'd like to make a few special requests (perhaps they fit into your plans): Please make a low profile wireless build with the intention of maximum batterylife (idc if there would be a heavy battery in it, but it should have power for a week minimum). An indepth build process by VOID would be also great. You did a super nice SLS case for the Corne with tilting capabilities, it would be great to see it with the KLOR again (perhaps a new twist to it?). And can you show the total costs of the whole build?? I am going to build this thing too and I'll hope I can learn from you. All the best and keep up the good work guys!
Great video!!
shocked to see my question being featured in this video, glad it was addressed after 6 months lmao
i built the mx and lp corne and i prefer the mx. i can type a few wpm faster on the lp but the typing experience is more pleasant on the mx. also no problem with wrist twisting, your pinkies look way larger than mine xD
Love the voron printer! I have a KLOR and love it, seeing your twist on it would be great!
Thanks!
In a month its the 4th year anniversary for my Southpaw's Centromere Mini. I have spring-swapped (35g i think) Red Pro switches in it, although the quiet ones you mentioned in the video look really sweet. Still, the LP switches don't make that much sound to begin with.
This keyboard was the first custom keyboard I bought. I took the plunge to 36 keys straight away with the intent to use the colemak dh layout from Miryoku on an unique device so that layouts wouldnt get mixed. In a month it was usable for dailydriving and in a year I had written my CS masters thesis with it. Until now it has served me so well that I find it hard to justify buying another one. I always thought that this is going to be the "gateway keyboard" to more and more experiments but that has not happened.
Why am I writing this? Because I really liked your line "its not minimalism for minimalism sake; it just makes sense", and wholeheartedly agree with it when looking back at my last few years keyboarding with my Centromere.
That's interesting, that you knew what you wanted from the get go, went for it, and stuck with it. Sounds like you really knew what you wanted from a keyboard. In my case, if making RUclips videos wasn't a thing I may have never gone beyond the Corne, or it may have taken me much longer to do so.
Would love to see you incorporate the trackpad mod that has been made for the QMK wired variant of the Totem to your wireless build. Also try the black choc switches which are silent pinks
Please make a Tutorial on how to setup Totem keyboard with ZMK. Your videos are very detailed.
I'd love an extra row totem! I can't live without my dedicated numbers, and have been looking into the Sofle as the answer. I really like the splaying of the keys on the Totem though.
I just got a Glove80 with pro reds, programmed it down to just three rows of 6 columns and the thumb keys with home row mods. I’m loving it. The totem looks amazing! But I’m really enjoying the glove’s concavity.
I am using the glove80 but without home row mods. What do you put on your thumb cluster? my modifiers, space, enter, backspace, and escape are there currently.
@@trench6118 It’s a generous cluster so I’m using it with the following layout (left to right)
Left Top: Backspace, Delete, To layer down
Left bottom: momentary layer up, momentary layer down, tab
Right top:To Layer up, return, space
Right bottom: Insert, momentary layer down, momentary layer up
@@johnathanrhoades7751 nice, thanks. i'll tweak mine tomorrow to see how it feels.
can't wait for the klor video
I have a wireless Corne LP from Typeractive, and while I already knew I'd have to make some sacrifices when using it for gaming - Simply the fact that it's wireless through bluetooth, introduces tiny input delay. The input delay is not noticable when doing anything else, but in fps games it's very noticable. I still use the wireless Corne with my Macbook, since it's amazing for programming and with it being super transportable, it's definitely not a wasted purchase.
That being said, I'm probably gonna invest in a wired Corne for my PC - Although I have been eyeing the Dactyl with a 3x6 layout and 3 thumb buttons on each side, just a more ergonomic Corne essentially.
Interesting that the bluetooth lag was noticeable, I haven't had any issues (other than some instances of connection dropping out entirely). I don't play competitive games, but recently I've been using the TOTEM for single player games and it's super responsive and the connection is rock solid with the dongle.
@@EIGAtech It might be the nicenanos because they aren't 2.4ghz - I might also notice it a bit more, because I've played comp fps since I was a kid. I don't think I'd notice it as much in a singleplayer game either. My dongle is like 40cms from the keyboard and there's no issues otherwise, it's just a tiny bit input lag I'll feel when stutter stepping in CS or doing anything movement related, especially when compared to my wired Alice KB. Changing ports make no difference, but I usually use the higher speed ones.
Maybe if it was 2.4ghz I wouldn't feel any difference to a wired, since gaming mice use that as well.
Remember, you can still use your wireless Corne in wired mode. The default keymap includes a toggle for wired and wireless. That should eliminate the input lag while gaming.
@@Xe054 This is somewhat true, the left part will have a wired connection, but the right part will still be connected to the left part wirelessly.
Keyball39 is so comfy, I was so torn between it and the Charybdis nano
Sorry for writing a second comment, but I just had a thought. If you make the Charybdis mod with the touchpad, it could have the touchpad on both sides, which would allow to have all the advanced multi-touch features that we know from laptops and mobile phones. Like pan and zoom, scrolling and gestures.
It’s an interesting idea but a lot of that depends on what’s possible to do with the ZMK firmware. 🤔
Apart from depending on the firmware, you'd also have ti think about how to handle conflicting inputs when touching both pads at the same time. That seems like it'd be a nightmare too lol
Would love to see Keyball39 build as a Corne trackball alternative to Charybdis
Very interested in the KLOR
How in god's name are your totem 3d prints so nice. Not a layer line in sight, plus it's textured
Good angles, you can definitely see the layer lines IRL if you look for them, but I tuned the prints quite a bit to get them to look as good as they do.
@@EIGAtech Which filament are you using? I really like the orange/green color scheme but all the filaments I see are way too vibrant. I'm looking for something more muted like you have.
Would be awesome to see a Svalboard build!
Yes! KLOR video pls
amazing work I can't recall the sub but I always wait for the videos thanks a lot VOID you the man!!!
Hi Eiga, I want to print the Totem in resin as I prefer the finish. Can I ask whether you would recommend the Totem or Totem Redux in this case? You briefly mentioned that the Redux felt more solid, but I’d love to hear your thoughts. Thanks! :)
Also, while watching this video, I realised I was already subscribed, but didn’t recognise your channel name. I soon remembered I had binged a lot of your SFF content a few weeks prior, haha. Keep up the great work, man - I really enjoy your style of videos. Very much looking forward to the Klor build!
Thank you and thanks for the sub. I worry sometimes that the SFF and keyb niches don’t overlap so I’m happy to see there are others like me out there.
As for the prints, I would go for the OG Totem printed in resin as you cannot go wrong with that and it probably comes out cheaper than 3 parts per side. Plus with resin you can print complex keycaps like the Chicago Stenos in my original Totem video.
Looking forward to the Klor video, though the squarish design of the totem and Klor bother me a little :) I'm not likely going to build either of these in the near future (until I feel a need to learn to solder and someone who's into 3d printing), I'm perfectly happy with the Dygma Defy (and it has just enough keys to use it for gaming also).
The Dygma Defy looks interesting, but how do you deal with so many thumb keys?
@@EIGAtech they're mixed MX and low profile, so it's not that bad with reach/ergonomics. The hardest part is trying to find uses for them all, I use 3 in my day job, but it's nice for a gaming config when you don't use the right half (space, enter, mods, PTT, +2).
Gotta see that KLOR build
I've been eyeballing Klor keyboard repository for quite time now. And it looks quite awesome. Too bad there is are no available kits for it, at least not in Europe, with resin print case.
the klor looks extremely interesting. i wanna build one but it's be my first non-shitty keyboard. pls make vid
PLEASE do a KLOR build!!!
We need a SplitKeyb with:
- Staggered Columnar layout with **Adjustable Splay Angle**
- with **Hall Effect** switches for Wooting-like actuation and SOCD
- with modular options for Thumb: *Controller THUMBSTICK like RazerAzeron* || Trackball like Chrybdis || ThumbCluster
- with Adjustable Rotation with Legs and Joint to separate Cluster's angle.
I wish RUclips had a notifcation level above "All"/push notifications. Your channel is one of about 5 where I /NEVER/ want to miss a video
To that end, do you have a mailing list or similar?
That's high praise, thank you! I don't have a mailing list but I always announce new videos on my instagram account: instagram.com/eiga.tech/
Have you considered joining the two halves with a rigid bridge? After having moved one or both, placing them in front of you again in the right position and orientation seems like one of those things that would get annoying after a while.
I'm also somewhat surprised that I rarely see custom keyboards with negative tilt and palm rests. Maybe it's only valued highly by folks like myself with weak arms from old repetitive stress injuries.
i actually got my corne wired from aliexpress for like a hundred after watching your first video.
I been using a 5 row minidox, cornish-zen and sweep for the past few years...I think the totem or charybdis with a trackball might be my endgame...
Definitely recommend trying out a splayed column layout like on the TOTEM.
plz make a video on the klor. I wanna get one right now
You need to build a tenting system for the totem
Id like to see the KLOR, came frome the chribdus video btw :)
Hey, this might be a long shot, but is there any chance for making a video about building and setting up dongles? I'm currently building a wireless kyria from split.kb, and I would love to extend my battery life with a dongle setup. Extra points if the dongle includes a screen.
Anyway, really great videos! Very fun to watch.
jo eiga great video, is there a schedule for when you will build the klor keyboard? :)
I think we're going to do it around Feb-March next year!
Those Totem builds are great! I'd been hesitant on building my own split keyboard since I have a Voyager that works well, but the dongle setup plus the FDM-friendly case & keycaps pushed me to finally give it a go.
This is my first electronics project, so it's been a learning process. I'm 99% done, but I'm having trouble with the dongle. I can get the left OR the right side to connect to the dongle, but I cannot figure out how to get BOTH sides to connect at the same time. It seems like once one half is connected, the dongle won't pick up any more connections. Does it matter which version of the nRF52840 I used? I didn't catch a shot of the components used in these updated builds so I followed your last TOTEM video which looked like it was using the regular nRF52840. Looking at the descriptions on the Seeed site, it seemed like the nRF52840 Sense mostly just included sensors that didn't seem necessary for this project.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
im planning on building a 5x3 corne for portable use
it seemed the Charybdis was a different project. It's not fine tuning something. If I can, I'd like to build a split where it has 2+ of these 'mouse stand-ins.'
It may be that on-hand optionality is needed for our hands to have an all-in-one keyboard/mouse/scroller.
First off, thanks for your amazing content!
Secondly, do you have a reference for files to make the dongle?
Would be awesome if you could try out naya create split keyboard.
Dear lord you have a Voron?! I'd subscribe twice if I could!
Took me a good month to build it properly but worth it! Thanks!
Can you make a video about the print settings and filaments? Or GitHub or something? I really want to be able to reproduce that “rough” sandpaper-like finish and avoid layer lines etc.
The rough texture you see is entirely from the textured PEI surface of my printer, but it's only on the first layer. You can achieve a rougher finish all over the print by using a "filled" filament with carbon fibers or glass fibers, but this also requires a hardened nozzle to print.
Can you please give me a link or more information about the dongles you are using?
Great content and camera work... A question for you. Can you expand on the point you made about the pinkie being better suited to the Totem vs the Corne. I thought the rotated pinkie key would be harder to reach ?
Thanks! On the TOTEM the columns underneath the ring and pinkie fingers are shifted down more aggressively and rotated (splayed) compared to the Corne, this makes reaching keys on those columns a lot easier, but it takes some getting used to at first.
@@EIGAtech Do you know if it can run on VIAL?
@@bradd5961 the wired version of the TOTEM which uses rp2040 Xiao controllers can totally get ported to VIAL, if it hasn't been done already.
for the wireless TOTEM though you'd have to set up a github config repository, and the best alternative to VIAL, at least for the time being, is a community project called ZMK Keymap Editor. it's a visual editor that simplifies things a bit, but any changes to the keymap or behaviors require a firmware rebuild and reflash.
ZMK Studio which is a fully fledged piece of software similar to VIAL is currently in the works, with a planned release later this year.
What fillament did you use for the totem? the colors look so good
Thanks! You can find the filament combinations on Printables: www.printables.com/model/864126-mote-choc-low-profile-flat-keycaps
honestly i see myself subbing only if you go in depth about the soldering and building stage as a whole, the focus on the finshed product is nice, but your videos always feel like there si a huge piece missing.
Would you mind sharing the materials of Corne?
I want to know about transparent one and dactyl with grey!
Thanks
Amazing video, thanks! I am trying to print the MOTE keycaps from JL3DP and am not able to. How did you print it? I am getting this error " The minimum build size for ABS is 3.00x3.00x1.00cm, please change the material." It's the same error for any of the FDM materials (ABS, PLA, ASA)
Please help!
The TOTEM Redux project and the MOTE keycaps are intended for FDM printing at home, if you're ordering from JLC then you might as well make use of their resin printing or SLS/MJF printing process to print sculpted keycaps like the Chicago Stenos: github.com/infused-kim/kb_keycaps_chicago_stenographer
Ah I see- thanks yeah that makes sense. Although these don't look as good or have varying heights so that they are more ergonomic like the MOTEs. I guess this is the only option
I wish the left side had a joystick
Where can I get the parts for the totem? Is there a hot swap version?
How did you achieve such a cool top plate pattern on totem redux case?
It's done in slicer by adding a height range modifier of about 3-4 layers, then setting no top/bottom layers for that modifier, and using Hilbert Curve infill and playing with the infill percentage and number of perimeters/walls (3-4). You can use other infill patterns as well to get other effects.
Do a review on svalbard keyboard
I thought the pink switches sounded pretty nice
Can the totem be tilted somehow? Ive found that i prefer my split kb a little bit more tilted towards the outside to bring my wrist into a more neutral positik.
can you share your wall settings / infill to get that totem case with the hilbert curve
Sure, the general idea is:
1. right click on the model - add a height range modifier from 0 to a couple of layers (e.g. 0.8)
2. select the height range modifier
3. change walls to 3-4
4. change bottom layers to 0
5. choose infill type Hilbert curve (or any other)
6. play with infill percentage to get the desired effect
TBH the sound of that totem keyboard is kind of horrible...😅 Sorry to say that but that' not even comparable to, let's say, the HHKB. The look instead is amazing, the fact that you 3d print it completely is even better!. With so few keys don't you find yourself slowed down? Especially when I code I find myself typing lots of symbols and brackets... plus the F1-12 keys for debugging are not there if you go below 70% ANSI keyboards... And i need already need to use the international dead-key combos for typing the "àèéìòù" when i am typing in italian... going to just 38 keys feels like I will lose quite an amount of speed.
Yeah the sound is... something you get used to, even with the best switches it's a long way away from the feel of even midrange MX switches. But you do get used to it and enjoy it for different reasons.
Regarding the number of keys, it's funny, I'm currently using a 60% keyboard just to see what it's like again, and to be honest, I find that I prefer less keys. With the TOTEM my hands stay roughly in the same position and everything is within reach by using layers. Of course, it takes a while to build up the muscle (and brain) memory of where everything is and on which layer, but I came to really prefer it.
You can also get really creative with layer behaviors, combos, tap dance. The sky is the limit on how much you can customize it make it work for you, but you do have to put in the time and deal with the initial frustration.
@EIGAtech I see! Thanks! so I suppose that this implies that after building the muscle memory you reached the same typing speed you had on a full QWERTY keyboard, in words per minute
I am very interested in this keyboard, just wondering if you will build by request and sell it?
yeah, anyone who has used a trackball before knew that was going to be uncomfortable.
6:33 Hey, how did you get the pattern on the left? Would you mind sharing the print settings and nozzle size you used?
Hey! That effect is achieved in the slicer: add a height range modifier for the first 4 layers or so, then set top and bottom layers to 0, perimeters to 4 and infill type to hilbert curve and play with the density percentage.
Interesting that the Corne's outer columns make you twist your wrist. Do you think that's due to bad typing posture or habits? Because I also have a Corne and type with my hands hovering in the air, like a piano player, and I move my entire arm (keeping my wrists straight) to type the outer column keys. I haven't had any pain issues yet after 9 months of use thankfully.
No doubt posture / technique is a part of it. The hover technique is interesting, and I have seen/heard others use it. Do you use tactile / silent tactile switches?
How do I actually get the pcb are they sold or are the plans provided somewhere and we just get it printed?
I think I’ll look into this, currently I use a normal low profile keyboard, Logitech Craft. Should I start with a mechanical keyboard first or this? Seems a bit intimidating.
Hmm, it depends on your frustration tolerance for more or less hard resetting your typing muscle memory. Ask yourself the following:
1. Do you have the time for it (allow 2-3 weeks of initial adjustment)?
2. Do you find ergo split keybs appealing?
3. Are you willing to customize your keymap and tailor it to your use case (set up layers and memorize them)?
4. Is touch typing something you want to get better at?
5. Are you dissatisfied with your current keyboard?
If the answer to all of those questions is yes AND you accept that there will be compromises to be made, then I say you go for it and enjoy the challenge!
9:19, where are the numbers and brackers and special characters?
I go into more detail on how my layers are set up in each individual video I did on these keyboards. For the TOTEM, you can check them out here: ruclips.net/video/YwsutNf1WRA/видео.htmlsi=p7Ysd4IafEtfyXL0&t=580
Is the Charybdis Wireless (3x6 aka Mini) available built? I no longer have the eyes to build it myself.
unfortunately not, the wireless version of the charybdis is very much diy and experimental, bastard keyboards is selling only wired ones.
but if you're interested in a wireless ergo split w/ integrated trackball, and you're flexible regarding the design, look up wylderbuilds. they have a variety of keyboards that might suit your needs.
I'm sticking to the qwerty layout because I still want the ability to type on somebody else's PC/laptop.
That’s valid. I use my MacBook occasionally and typing on it is not fun when you are used to split ergo keybs.
your brain will learn both
What do homerow mods have to do with the keyboard? They're all programmable. You can have the same set up on each.
Correct, but on a 5 column keyboard they are a necessity not a preference.
Does the klor build have a wireless mod?
Is there repo/guide on charybdis 3x5? All of them seem to be intended for 3x6 layout.
What about the Corn 36?
Amazing style and content, i absolutely agree with your points. I also build the skeletyll wireless and love it. But currently building a new complete custom one with own pcb. If you are interested on a collab, let me know. Would love to get your input their. Also amazing style, love it!!
Keep pushing :)
And the klor looks amazing o.O
Thank you! Anywhere I can follow the progress on your custom keyb?
@@EIGAtech Not yet no, i am currently on the PCB design and will create a video as soon as i have my first prototype/keyboard running
But happy to share first drafts directly
Wait til this guy sees the Svalboard...
I have seen it. Maybe it would be interesting to try it but it’s a totally different beast.
@@EIGAtech Good man. The way it is described typing on it... I think I would want to feel it before sinking the money into it. But it sounds amazing.
What are the keycaps on the corne? Do you have a link please?
It's the XDA V2 Gentleman keycap set
@@EIGAtech same for the ones without legend?
@@marcodebortoli I've combined two Gentleman sets, one with legends and one without.
@@EIGAtech thank you very much for all the information, really appreciated
Sorry if it’s been asked but what keycaps are on the corne?
XDA Gentleman V2
I would like to know, how do you do a one left-handed (ctrl+c) for copy with the homerow mods? i tried switching d/f but then paste becomes an issue. Any advice?
Home row mods are present on both sides, in this case you would use the ones on the right half. I do have CTRL as an additional key on the thumb cluster as I use it very frequently. You can also look into combos where you would press two keys simultaneously to trigger a desired action (e.g X+C and C+V)
@@EIGAtech Oh wow I didnt think of combos, thats actually a great idea thanks!
Would you ever sell the Totem Redux? I dont have a 3d printer
I would pay thousands for a ready to buy split topre keyboard but can't find anything 😢
Try the: rolio46 keyboard
If anything your video convinced me it is not worth doing unless you plan to solder/build other things in the future - even if you save like 100 euros at a low hourly rate of 30e/h you are in the red if it took more than 3 hours per keyboard - getting it assembled by someone who does that for a living without the gaps is a bargain. if you are a youtuber/or interested in this it is a different story