The reason to replace the drywall in that area is to ensure no moisture has gotten behind the drywall, it looked wet when you put on the kurdy. If there was any moisture back there, get ready to do some demo because moisture = mold. Water takes the path of least resistance so that area that was wet was probably from somewhere else but I hope it worked for you. Not trying to dog on the experiment
He does something similar in this video so I think it worked. Will try this myself in the future and will post if I have updates ruclips.net/video/6H5VlIg3gmg/видео.html
I had the same issue but I didn't waterproof the drywall when I fixed mine. I need to re-do with this experimental solution. Kids weren't making sure the shower curtain was properly sealed. I think the shower curtain is sealing now so this fix should work better.
Thought your instructions for this minor repair were very good. I have done ton's of drywall work & have one suggestion. I feel using cement based thinset not the best idea being thin set is very absorbent to moisture. The Kerdi-band should be attached using just a few thin beads of liquid nails. Then spackle the waterproof band & then use the Kiltz. Just my opinion, liquid nails is waterproof adhesive once cured. Would make for a superior repair, truly waterproof. Placing your repair material on a thin bed of thin set will absorb moisture from the underside exposed to the tub surround. Good luck , Chuck DYI-Man
Hi Chuck, I agree with you on the thinset since I know it is moisture absorbent. So your suggestion is a few beads of liquid nails.. can you explain how to apply that to set the band please? I'm dealing with this now and I like your suggestion.
What if you have damage/gap between the drywall and the insert that needs to be filled where you will put the kerdiband over? Just use setting joint compound? Is there a more water resistant option? Can you then use liquid nail to attach the kerdiband to the dry joint compound?
@@marialessa88 Hi Alejandra, how is the patch up holding up now? Did you apply the thinset first or end up using the liquid nail as the base for sticking the kerdi on? Any update and suggestions is appreciated. Thx.
Great idea! I have this exact problem? Working on it now....over time I feel that this is my best option until a complete bathroom remodel is done in the future?Thanks for the experimental idea!
Not sure why you would want to put joint compound over your waterproofed patch? Joint compound will absorb moisture and you could potentially wind up with the same situation.
For anyone considering this, this ain't the fix. The materials in the area immediately adjacent to a tub need to be non-absorbent as best as possible AND waterproofed. The real solution here is to tear out the small strip of drywall, install cement board and water seal it. Water is most likely finding it's way into that seam between the tub bottom and shower wall, and will wick behind the waterproofing membrane causing the drywall to suck it up. The only way around that is meticulous caulking (most will neglect this), or building the area to be as resistant to absorption as possible. Having the membrane over the drywall will only be effective for standing water.
1. Was the dark stuff at the bottom of the sheetrock mildew or mold? If so, did you treat it and how? 2. Why did you say it was important to use powdered sheet rock mud rather than premixed? 3. Before applying the Thin Set did you do anything to reinforce and waterproof the exposed and cracked sheetrock core, such as saturating it with an acrylic binder, etc.?
Carol Scholz I have the same thing back be hide my shower wall at the bottom my husband say it not mole but I think it is because I have spot on my wall so I'm just like you is it mole to the guy who did this video can you please tell me is that mole I would like to no my self
Setting type compound is like plaster, it dries by chemical cure and not from evaporation, and is less affected by water hitting it and turning back into how you put it on like all purpose premixed is. Might be better off with an actual veneer plaster, or a stronger setting type like Durabond 90, though, compared to Easy Sand like he's using. I have plaster outside on a cement board I practiced on and the plaster is 100% like the day I put it on, outdoors with rainstorms, etc. I also had plaster actually get hard underwater.
Jeff, Thanks for the heads up on waterproofing the drywall next to the tub and surround.I understand that this is an experiment but from all indications , you should get great results. The only problem for me will be remembering this information when and if I ever need it. Great job with the video as usual. Looking forward to a video on the results sometime down the road.
+Jeff Patterson Thank you Jeff. I am taking my wife to Florida for her Birthday and will be gone for a couple of weeks. I will message you when I return.
All geniuses procrastinate as they wait for the inspiration of knowledge to flow through the universe that has been passed on collectively through the years.
I’m watching this video in 2022…Thank you so much for this! It’s very helpful. We have exactly the same problem in our bathroom. Thanks to this video we can do it ourselves. 👍
Can we get a proper update to this experiment? I've slogged through the comments below to find that the paint was peeling "a fraction of an inch". I think there's enough interest here to know the results of the experiment! Thank You Steve!
Wow, your videos are amazing I've watched a few and subscribed and will be watching all. I'm a single mother own a 5 bedroom home and so much to repair Thank You so much keep up that great tips!
Hi! This is the only video of its kind where I've seen Kerdi installed over drywall. I'm trying it out in our bathroom where the wall along side the bottom of the tub has gotten wet, causing the tile to become lose. I put the Kerdi down before replacing the tile, and I also allowed the Kerdi overlap onto the drywall next to the tile so that it has more protection. Thanks for the great "experimental" idea. One question - why don't you recommend going over the Kerdi with premixed joint compound? Also, how are you going to ensure that water doesn't seep out onto the wall that you've just repaired every time the shower is used?
Usually Kerdi is applied over cement board or mortar or a surface that is knowingly water indeterminate. The membrane does not allow water to permeate, so if there is water damage behind the application, it will continue to have issues. New applications won't have this issue, as water has never been introduced; but, going overtop of water-damaged issues may work in short term but have the same issue or create further nasty issues long-term
I’ve seen a video from “your tile coach” where he looks at showers that he, or someone else, has installed that failed with the kerdi system. He has some good info. Seems like instead of using thinset that shouldn’t get wet after it drys, adhering the kerdi with something more water poof works better. That’s for a shower (problems failing around the drain) but maybe good too try in this situation too?
I was just about to ask the same thing. I have never done drywall or any home repair like this, but from what I've been reading is that thinset absorbs moisture. Why would you use this instead of the joint compound or something else under the kerdiband? Is there a better alternative than joint compound? I'm trying to find something now before I fix my shower area.
I thought the plaster of paris would be ideal since that is obviously what the home builders did in my manufactured home, that stuff is a beast as long as you seal and primer before you caulk then paint. Using tape to make the best lines you know what I'm caulking about.
I have the same problem, only I think I am going to cut out some drywall and replace it with cement board. Would love to know how to keep the water from draining onto the wall where the seam of the surround is. I tried silicone and it didn't work.
Not an expert by any means 😬 lol but I've done a lot of mud repairs lately.. I'm betting he says that because setting type sets harder than pre mix and pre mix can just get wiped away with water even after setting so it's probably a poor choice for water proofing.
Why use unmodified thinset under the kerdiband? Doesn't thinset absorb water to a degree? Why not use the setting joint compound under it as well? Does the kerdiband not adhere to it?
My feeling is that the kerdi band will stop damage under it but moisture will still adversely affect anything -joint compound and paint - on top of the kerdi. I would try filling the last couple inches of that horizontal seam in the shower surround to stop water from weeping along that seam until it comes to the painted wall.
My thoughts are let's see if it works before I have any thoughts on if it's a good way to patch a wall next to a bathtub in a bathroom, please let me know in the comments if you think I should be doing what I just said, what do you think?
Thanks a bunch for this video! I followed your tutorial in my own bathroom and only had one issue... After I did the joint compound over the Kerdi-Band (about the 5:00 minute mark on your video) and while the joint compound was drying, some of the Kerdi-Band underneath bubbled up a little in some spots. After the joint compound dried completely, everything layed back down flat. I feel it is OK and will continue with the project... I take this to mean that I didn't properly embed the Kerdi-Band into the thinset. Even though I *thought* I did a good job embedding the Kerdi-Band into the thinset... Either way, I had a thought. If I were to do this project again in the future, instead of using the thinset under the Kerdi-Band, I will try spray adhesive. Like a 3M super 90... I figure I could spray the Kerdi-Band with the Super 90 then lay it down right onto the sheetrock. Then joint compound over that and continue.
I thought I saw in the video where it had looked like it was bubbled up before he put the thin set on it so maybe that's normal? Going to be doing this project as well very soon, thank you for your comment I'll be sure to watch for bubbles myself
You shouldn't put thinset over joint compound/anything gypsum without priming it. It causes weird chemical reactions/won't bond as the gypsum draws the moisture out of the thinset. All the tile companies make bonding primers, ala Mapei Primer T for this purpose, but you can also use Aquadefense or Redgard to prime it and waterproof it at the same time, but then he couldn't do a Kerdi product placement thing.
dude too complicated, option 1 - you could redgard it, more expensive but less work, option 2, buy a strip of pvc the width of the space and silicone it in, looks amazing if you run your bead of silicone right. option 3 - remove the baseboard, ( baseboard is a huge no beside a tub unless its pvc because wood dry rots and mdf is just paper) repair the wall and ensure the silicone bead is tight because it looks like you had a gap and water got in. either that or your curtain rod is too far out. I've had regular drywall beside my tub siliconed to the floor (no baseboard), painted with 'sheen' paint for 5 years and never had an issue.
Hey Jeff, what about waterproofing where the tub meets the tile? I'm having issues with water seeping through the second floor bathroom and ruining the ceiling of the first floor. I am a new sub and look forward to learning a great deal.
between the tub and tile it's a good idea to use 100% silicone. It allows for expansion and contraction and provides waterproofing. Sometimes water makes it's way to the second floor at the tub to floor transition. So that's also a good place to inspect. Hope it's not a water leak from the mixing valve or tub shoe?
+Jeff Patterson Thanks for the fast reply! Nope, it seems to be from the same issue as in this video. Water splashes out of the tub, runs down the wall, etc. I am watching the video on the Schluter-Ditra floor membrane installation right now. Future project...
Typo: "Here's the deal: drywall next to bathtubs often gets water damage because, well, drywall is waterproof. " I think you meant to say "Here's the deal: drywall next to bathtubs often gets water damage because, well, drywall is NOT waterproof. "
Hey so dont you use modified thi set under the band and unmodified for over ? Is it because it is such a small space?? And there is no real pressure like from walking that they would have recommended unmodified? Thanks
He pointed to the area in the video. The damage was done because water traveled across the seam of where the shower wall meets the bathtub and continued following the seam until it hit the drywall. The water caused the paint to eventually bubble and peel and slightly damaging the drywall behind it. The same EXACT thing happened in my bathroom. I'm in the middle of repairing now. May use a similar fix. I haven't decided yet.
Hi Home tutor repair, Great video 👍. Question what is the name of the thinset you used before putting on the Kerdi band? I am going to try this at home 🏡 thanks in advance 👍
Your gona want to replace the drywall and anything behind it that maybe rotted or moldy like the studs or insulation. Then I would consider using something like tile backer instead of drywall.
l see that the true cause of your water problem is the gap between the tub and the surround wall . See the gap that goes to the wall ? Water is channeling thru that gap and going down the wall . The solutuon is to silicone that gap .
You're going to have to figure out where the water is coming from and fix that, then repair the wall. The walls will probably have to be torn out. Good luck. I'm dealing with a similar issue, all the research I've done says the walls need to come out. I have a tile surround above a tub.
Absolutely wrong. You either have to tie it into the tub flange and existing waterproofing .or keep the water out completely. This is exactly the wrong approach. You have now waterproof the outside face of the drywall. Hiding any further water infiltration. Probably hiding water damage until there is substantial damage. I have been an expert on water infiltration for over 45 years
+Jeff Patterson Yes, it was in a strange place where it would seem that you would not have water damage (if you used the shower curtain correctly!) And another question: at the horizontal line-joining point of the tub to the surround, is it necessary to fill that with silicone caulk or is there enough of a lip on the tub (that reaches up behind the surround) that the caulk is not needed. Thanks!
@@22doulos22 I have rentals and most have the same issue. I'm trying liquid nails and the Kerdi band. This was a great video for a possible new way to repair this issue.
+Patrick McLaughlin understand your concern. I discussed the project with Schluter and followed their tips. Keep in mind that we allowed the joint compound to fully dry before priming and painting
The reason to replace the drywall in that area is to ensure no moisture has gotten behind the drywall, it looked wet when you put on the kurdy. If there was any moisture back there, get ready to do some demo because moisture = mold. Water takes the path of least resistance so that area that was wet was probably from somewhere else but I hope it worked for you. Not trying to dog on the experiment
please make a an update video on this experiment please. I would greatly appreciate it.
He does something similar in this video so I think it worked. Will try this myself in the future and will post if I have updates
ruclips.net/video/6H5VlIg3gmg/видео.html
I had the same issue but I didn't waterproof the drywall when I fixed mine. I need to re-do with this experimental solution. Kids weren't making sure the shower curtain was properly sealed. I think the shower curtain is sealing now so this fix should work better.
Thought your instructions for this minor repair were very good. I have done ton's of drywall work & have one suggestion. I feel using cement based thinset not the best idea being thin set is very absorbent to moisture. The Kerdi-band should be attached using just a few thin beads of liquid nails. Then spackle the waterproof band & then use the Kiltz. Just my opinion, liquid nails is waterproof adhesive once cured. Would make for a superior repair, truly waterproof. Placing your repair material on a thin bed of thin set will absorb moisture from the underside exposed to the tub surround. Good luck , Chuck DYI-Man
Hi Chuck, I agree with you on the thinset since I know it is moisture absorbent. So your suggestion is a few beads of liquid nails.. can you explain how to apply that to set the band please? I'm dealing with this now and I like your suggestion.
Use Kerdi/Set to adhere it
Pete Ruth thanks!
What if you have damage/gap between the drywall and the insert that needs to be filled where you will put the kerdiband over? Just use setting joint compound? Is there a more water resistant option? Can you then use liquid nail to attach the kerdiband to the dry joint compound?
@@marialessa88 Hi Alejandra, how is the patch up holding up now? Did you apply the thinset first or end up using the liquid nail as the base for sticking the kerdi on? Any update and suggestions is appreciated. Thx.
Great idea! I have this exact problem? Working on it now....over time I feel that this is my best option until a complete bathroom remodel is done in the future?Thanks for the experimental idea!
Not sure why you would want to put joint compound over your waterproofed patch? Joint compound will absorb moisture and you could potentially wind up with the same situation.
Any recommendations on what to put instead of the joint compound over the Kerdi? Thanks!
For anyone considering this, this ain't the fix. The materials in the area immediately adjacent to a tub need to be non-absorbent as best as possible AND waterproofed. The real solution here is to tear out the small strip of drywall, install cement board and water seal it. Water is most likely finding it's way into that seam between the tub bottom and shower wall, and will wick behind the waterproofing membrane causing the drywall to suck it up. The only way around that is meticulous caulking (most will neglect this), or building the area to be as resistant to absorption as possible. Having the membrane over the drywall will only be effective for standing water.
I have the same issue now. How did this repair last long term?
Thanks
1. Was the dark stuff at the bottom of the sheetrock mildew or mold? If so, did you treat it and how?
2. Why did you say it was important to use powdered sheet rock mud rather than premixed?
3. Before applying the Thin Set did you do anything to reinforce and waterproof the exposed and cracked sheetrock core, such as saturating it with an acrylic binder, etc.?
Carol Scholz I have the same thing back be hide my shower wall at the bottom my husband say it not mole but I think it is because I have spot on my wall so I'm just like you is it mole to the guy who did this video can you please tell me is that mole I would like to no my self
Setting type compound is like plaster, it dries by chemical cure and not from evaporation, and is less affected by water hitting it and turning back into how you put it on like all purpose premixed is. Might be better off with an actual veneer plaster, or a stronger setting type like Durabond 90, though, compared to Easy Sand like he's using. I have plaster outside on a cement board I practiced on and the plaster is 100% like the day I put it on, outdoors with rainstorms, etc. I also had plaster actually get hard underwater.
Working on mine this weekend. Just running to the store to get supplies.
Jeff, Thanks for the heads up on waterproofing the drywall next to the tub and surround.I understand that this is an experiment but from all indications , you should get great results. The only problem for me will be remembering this information when and if I ever need it. Great job with the video as usual. Looking forward to a video on the results sometime down the road.
thanks buddy, I'll keep you updated. When you need to give this a try just send me an email or message on RUclips, I'll help you out
+Jeff Patterson Thank you Jeff. I am taking my wife to Florida for her Birthday and will be gone for a couple of weeks. I will message you when I return.
@@HomeRepairTutor send me an update please. I’m trying this weekend
Where do you get the band from
I use Schluter a lot. You have a good imagination and it should work well. Great thinking Sir.
+Chad Gaglioti thanks, we like Schluter products quite a bit. This was definitely an experiment, but I hope it holds up
Any updates on this? Its been awhile and was wondering if your experiment worked! Let us know.
I did this fix about 4 years ago - no problems so far, it's working great.
All this trouble to make a small repair. No wonder I procrastinate.
PC Principal SE
Lol. I hear you. And all of the small tools - buying those when you don't have them adds up to a small fortune.
Did you write you comment 2 yrs after watching this 😆
All geniuses procrastinate as they wait for the inspiration of knowledge to flow through the universe that has been passed on collectively through the years.
I’m watching this video in 2022…Thank you so much for this! It’s very helpful. We have exactly the same problem in our bathroom. Thanks to this video we can do it ourselves. 👍
Did the water problem get solved 1st?
3/05/17 at this point in time has it worked?
I’d love to know how this project turned out. Success? Thanks
Thank you for this video. This is exactly the damage I am needing to repair this weekend.
+Ryan Mustain let me know how you make out, it's an experiment for sure but better than drywall
+Ryan Mustain keep me posted, this was an experiment but hoping it holds up :)
How'd this hold up? I work at an apartment complex and need a simple repair like this
Can we get a proper update to this experiment? I've slogged through the comments below to find that the paint was peeling "a fraction of an inch". I think there's enough interest here to know the results of the experiment! Thank You Steve!
It's held up for over two years, some minor peeling of paint but not much. Much better than what it could look like without the KERDI-BAND
can you record or show a picture of it and link it with this video?
Who else is doing this while quarantined ?
Lol omg yes same spot next to the tub as well
🙋🏾♂️
Did it work?
Please update this one, I have similar projects at my apartment complex and would like to know how it works out. Thanks!
will do, at the very least the drywall will be protected...keep you posted
Home Repair Tutor what happened to update?
Update? 3 years should be long enough .. did it work?
@@HomeRepairTutor It's been 4 years! How's she holding up? I suspect well?
I never use metal corner bead in a bathroom and definatly not next to a tub
Hi, this is Nate from Bathroom Bling LLC and this should work fine. The waterproof membrane, silicone, and primer will be perfect.
+Nathaniel obleanis thanks, I just checked on this Repair and it held up well. So it’s still a good option 👍
@@HomeRepairTutor thanks for the update!!!!
Wow, your videos are amazing I've watched a few and subscribed and will be watching all. I'm a single mother own a 5 bedroom home and so much to repair Thank You so much keep up that great tips!
+River lee super happy the videos have helped, always feel free to ask questions 👍
River i
How long did this stay in good shape??? Did you have to eventually tear it all out????
Thanks for the video! any update on the repair?
Hi! This is the only video of its kind where I've seen Kerdi installed over drywall. I'm trying it out in our bathroom where the wall along side the bottom of the tub has gotten wet, causing the tile to become lose. I put the Kerdi down before replacing the tile, and I also allowed the Kerdi overlap onto the drywall next to the tile so that it has more protection. Thanks for the great "experimental" idea.
One question - why don't you recommend going over the Kerdi with premixed joint compound?
Also, how are you going to ensure that water doesn't seep out onto the wall that you've just repaired every time the shower is used?
Usually Kerdi is applied over cement board or mortar or a surface that is knowingly water indeterminate. The membrane does not allow water to permeate, so if there is water damage behind the application, it will continue to have issues. New applications won't have this issue, as water has never been introduced; but, going overtop of water-damaged issues may work in short term but have the same issue or create further nasty issues long-term
Kilz 2... :/ Zinsser Mold Killing Primer is king for bathrooms and wet areas, along with Zinsser Perma-white.
I’ve seen a video from “your tile coach” where he looks at showers that he, or someone else, has installed that failed with the kerdi system. He has some good info. Seems like instead of using thinset that shouldn’t get wet after it drys, adhering the kerdi with something more water poof works better. That’s for a shower (problems failing around the drain) but maybe good too try in this situation too?
I was just about to ask the same thing. I have never done drywall or any home repair like this, but from what I've been reading is that thinset absorbs moisture. Why would you use this instead of the joint compound or something else under the kerdiband? Is there a better alternative than joint compound? I'm trying to find something now before I fix my shower area.
Nice video - I used Kilz3 instead of Kilz2. It is better for the moisture in the bathroom.
did this work for you im at lowes buying the kerdi band - i have same exact issue as you
My bathtub has the same gap between the tub and sections of the shower wall. Water tends to travel along the gap towards the wall.
The easy sand setting type isn't made to get wet. In this line of work and can't imagine this working. Better than nothing though.
I thought the plaster of paris would be ideal since that is obviously what the home builders did in my manufactured home, that stuff is a beast as long as you seal and primer before you caulk then paint. Using tape to make the best lines you know what I'm caulking about.
I have the same problem, only I think I am going to cut out some drywall and replace it with cement board. Would love to know how to keep the water from draining onto the wall where the seam of the surround is. I tried silicone and it didn't work.
Did the waterproofing work? Thanks for the clear instructions!
I am about to try this method, but don't see any follow-up as to how it worked out long term. Did it work. Are there any suggested enhancements
i think its a great idea, you should have went all the way down to the floor and partially under the shoe molding.
there's a bead of silicone between the baseboard and drywall, so I wasn't concerned with that part
My drywall crumbled when I peeled off the paint. What do I do. Help please
Good 💡. I might be trying this method.
Kerdi wicks water under because of the fleece backing.
How is this holding up? Did it work? Does that Kerdi Band tape really make a difference?
It's working really well, better than I expected. There is some paint peeling off, only a fraction of an inch, but it's not a big deal.
Home Repair Tutor how is it doing now?
So did it work?
Why do you not want to use pre-mixed joint compound?
Not an expert by any means 😬 lol but I've done a lot of mud repairs lately.. I'm betting he says that because setting type sets harder than pre mix and pre mix can just get wiped away with water even after setting so it's probably a poor choice for water proofing.
Why use unmodified thinset under the kerdiband? Doesn't thinset absorb water to a degree? Why not use the setting joint compound under it as well? Does the kerdiband not adhere to it?
Good idea. Let us know how it turns out over time
will do, hope it works!!
Home Repair Tutor how did it go?
What if the drywall is damaged behind it? That's my issue.
My feeling is that the kerdi band will stop damage under it but moisture will still adversely affect anything -joint compound and paint - on top of the kerdi. I would try filling the last couple inches of that horizontal seam in the shower surround to stop water from weeping along that seam until it comes to the painted wall.
My thoughts are let's see if it works before I have any thoughts on if it's a good way to patch a wall next to a bathtub in a bathroom, please let me know in the comments if you think I should be doing what I just said, what do you think?
Thanks a bunch for this video!
I followed your tutorial in my own bathroom and only had one issue...
After I did the joint compound over the Kerdi-Band (about the 5:00 minute mark on your video) and while the joint compound was drying, some of the Kerdi-Band underneath bubbled up a little in some spots. After the joint compound dried completely, everything layed back down flat. I feel it is OK and will continue with the project...
I take this to mean that I didn't properly embed the Kerdi-Band into the thinset. Even though I *thought* I did a good job embedding the Kerdi-Band into the thinset...
Either way, I had a thought. If I were to do this project again in the future, instead of using the thinset under the Kerdi-Band, I will try spray adhesive. Like a 3M super 90... I figure I could spray the Kerdi-Band with the Super 90 then lay it down right onto the sheetrock. Then joint compound over that and continue.
I thought I saw in the video where it had looked like it was bubbled up before he put the thin set on it so maybe that's normal? Going to be doing this project as well very soon, thank you for your comment I'll be sure to watch for bubbles myself
I meant after the thin set, and before the joint compound
You shouldn't put thinset over joint compound/anything gypsum without priming it. It causes weird chemical reactions/won't bond as the gypsum draws the moisture out of the thinset. All the tile companies make bonding primers, ala Mapei Primer T for this purpose, but you can also use Aquadefense or Redgard to prime it and waterproof it at the same time, but then he couldn't do a Kerdi product placement thing.
That's a classic problem where the water is wicking from the seem in your surround
it's been a handful of months shy of two years.....what's the verdict? it seems like it was a perfect fix and would have worked well in theory
dude too complicated, option 1 - you could redgard it, more expensive but less work, option 2, buy a strip of pvc the width of the space and silicone it in, looks amazing if you run your bead of silicone right. option 3 - remove the baseboard, ( baseboard is a huge no beside a tub unless its pvc because wood dry rots and mdf is just paper) repair the wall and ensure the silicone bead is tight because it looks like you had a gap and water got in. either that or your curtain rod is too far out. I've had regular drywall beside my tub siliconed to the floor (no baseboard), painted with 'sheen' paint for 5 years and never had an issue.
I've read that it is not suggested to paint over redguard. Have you?
You say unmodified thinset and the video description says modified... which is it?
It’s unmodified, sorry for the confusion
Thanks for making it so easy!
Love your work and videos, hope to be a popular as you one day. Keep up the good work
+Nathaniel obleanis thanks man, you’ll like RUclips. It’s a great place for these types of video
Hey Jeff, what about waterproofing where the tub meets the tile? I'm having issues with water seeping through the second floor bathroom and ruining the ceiling of the first floor. I am a new sub and look forward to learning a great deal.
between the tub and tile it's a good idea to use 100% silicone. It allows for expansion and contraction and provides waterproofing. Sometimes water makes it's way to the second floor at the tub to floor transition. So that's also a good place to inspect. Hope it's not a water leak from the mixing valve or tub shoe?
+Jeff Patterson Thanks for the fast reply! Nope, it seems to be from the same issue as in this video. Water splashes out of the tub, runs down the wall, etc. I am watching the video on the Schluter-Ditra floor membrane installation right now. Future project...
DITRA will help a TON with water splashes, which inevitably happen. Bummer it's not a quick fix
Jeff Patterson Thanks for your response and videos!
#Jeff Patterson Getting creative is a large part of being a landlord. It seems like a smart experiment to me. @Hank Wolgast
Will this method work around the front door of a walk in shower and baseboard trim?
Typo: "Here's the deal: drywall next to bathtubs often gets water damage because, well, drywall is waterproof. " I think you meant to say "Here's the deal: drywall next to bathtubs often gets water damage because, well, drywall is NOT waterproof. "
How is this holding up?
Hey so dont you use modified thi set under the band and unmodified for over ? Is it because it is such a small space?? And there is no real pressure like from walking that they would have recommended unmodified? Thanks
Awesome, keep making videos please
Thanks for sharing, nicely done, should work.
hope it works...we'll see
I feel all that damage was because something was done wrong in the first place. I've never seen damage like that in a similar tub layout.
My bathtub has identical damage
He pointed to the area in the video. The damage was done because water traveled across the seam of where the shower wall meets the bathtub and continued following the seam until it hit the drywall. The water caused the paint to eventually bubble and peel and slightly damaging the drywall behind it. The same EXACT thing happened in my bathroom. I'm in the middle of repairing now. May use a similar fix. I haven't decided yet.
Same has happened to me. Looking for ways to fix the damage and keep it from happening again.
Just found this video. Did it work?
Jeff, Did your Kerdi repair hold up? W'e're about to try your solution on a wall where the glass shower meets the wall down at the curb.
+dljohnson28 haven't been called back. Most of these tips were straight from Schluter. They're pretty spot on with their advice
Great process thanks for sharing.
Hi Home tutor repair, Great video 👍. Question what is the name of the thinset you used before putting on the Kerdi band? I am going to try this at home 🏡 thanks in advance 👍
how is it 6 months later? is the paint peeling?
Getting creative is a large part of being a landlord. It seems like a smart experiment to me.
What I need to do if that drywall all rotten and something black coming out from there
Thank you
Your gona want to replace the drywall and anything behind it that maybe rotted or moldy like the studs or insulation. Then I would consider using something like tile backer instead of drywall.
l see that the true cause of your water problem is the gap between the tub and the surround wall . See the gap that goes to the wall ? Water is channeling thru that gap and going down the wall . The solutuon is to silicone that gap .
Does anyone know if the experiment worked?
So...if the drywall is no good, I need to replace it? Probably a stupid question 🙄
What if the wall is always wet what do i do?
You're going to have to figure out where the water is coming from and fix that, then repair the wall. The walls will probably have to be torn out. Good luck. I'm dealing with a similar issue, all the research I've done says the walls need to come out. I have a tile surround above a tub.
The big question is "how did the water get on the drywall?" Is someone not using a curtain properly?
could u pls tell me what kind of gray much did u apply not the drywall?
Good job
Absolutely wrong. You either have to tie it into the tub flange and existing waterproofing .or keep the water out completely. This is exactly the wrong approach. You have now waterproof the outside face of the drywall. Hiding any further water infiltration. Probably hiding water damage until there is substantial damage.
I have been an expert on water infiltration for over 45 years
How was there water damage at that point?
good question, it's hard to say since this is a rental home but my guess is the shower curtain wasn't doing its job
+Jeff Patterson Yes, it was in a strange place where it would seem that you would not have water damage (if you used the shower curtain correctly!) And another question: at the horizontal line-joining point of the tub to the surround, is it necessary to fill that with silicone caulk or is there enough of a lip on the tub (that reaches up behind the surround) that the caulk is not needed. Thanks!
that's cause the line from the tile bring the water to it
Home Repair Tutor hi I have the same problem and I still can’t figure out what it causes the wall went?
@@22doulos22 I have rentals and most have the same issue. I'm trying liquid nails and the Kerdi band. This was a great video for a possible new way to repair this issue.
Backsplash around the shower.
There is no picture my brother!
not an expert here, but this does not look like a good idea. Drywall compound over a waterproof substrate?
+Patrick McLaughlin understand your concern. I discussed the project with Schluter and followed their tips. Keep in mind that we allowed the joint compound to fully dry before priming and painting
yes I like this! great test
thanks, always worth giving ideas a chance
Update?
Great wok!
How did this turn out? Im having the same problem! Lol
I used a water based polyurethane over my paint in the bathroom and now it’s waterproof 😂😂😂😂
this is helpful
Lol too fancy ! Just put the putty on it then tile,call it good enough.
Can’t you use pvc trim around the tub and wall flange
No need to ask how dd it go
I know it work
Am doing mine😁
You mean you tried this and it worked? Thanks for the update
The 20-minute is waterproof
Awesome
Tub is not level
dude get a job at homedepot
I like this
Bandaid
Curry van? 🤨