2006-2011 Second gen Mercedes Benz ML350 W164 with struts. Upper control arm replacement
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- Replacement steps to replace upper control arms on 07 Mercedes Benz ML350. Tools used to replace upper control arms. 3/8" drive ratchet, T-45 Torx, 21mm wrench, and pry bar. Lowest price for a good quality part.
Left Front upper control arm:
www.pelicanpar...
Right front upper control arm:
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#mechanic #wrenching #ml350 #pelicanparts #autotechnician #autotecheducation #mercedesbenz #diy
That sound of the broken control arm just solved my problem! Thanks!!!
Awesome! Glad the video helped you. Thank you for your feedback.
Thanks
I just did this on my 2011 ML350, along with replacing the struts. The passenger side is very easy. The driver side is a bit more challenging as access to the bolts/nuts on the strut tower is not as clear. Accessing the nut towards the rear of the car is difficult as you can't see it. However, removing both plastic engine covers provides clearance and access to that bolt.
Yes, drivers side nuts and bolts on driver side strut tower is challenging. Tests one’s patience.
Thank you for the comment.
Excelent video man! Good explenation for beginners like me.
Btw my revently bought w164 ML500 has the front wheels tilted inwards (negative camber)...
Its strange because I dont think you can adjust it that much. It didnt have an accident. The front of the car is lowered, maybe thats the reason. I bought 4 new coils so the car will be level again.
But I also hear noise and some loose joints so maybe these arms are worn...
Thank you for comment. I am glad the video helped you out.
Regarding about negative camber. Yes, you're correct I do not see any adjustments for camber.
I suggest to verify the wheel bearings. Loose or worn out bearings can make the wheels look like negative camber stance.
@@713jtmechanic8 thanks, I will look into that. Also I read that a bent axle would cause negative camber...
I hope thats not the case....
We'll see.
These cars also wear out the front sway bar links and sway bar bushings quickly. Relatively easy replacements
@@millenniumzeek okay thanks for sharing! 👍
@@explorinlearnindoing5462 Keep us posted on your findings.
You really should reassemble the suspension complete and load it up before tightening any of the bushings. This is to make sure that none of the rubber bushings rip prematurely.
2009 ML 63 driver's side left: 1. REMEMBER to unscrew the front left 10mm nut and bolt holding the angle position sensor to the control arm!!!!!
Front arm nut is easy. Painter's tape on an offset 16mm loop wrench and a 16mm ratcheting wrench on the inside wheel well.
The firewall nut is easier to get with a straight fixed loop wrench with painters tape on it. You cannot see it. You feel your way. There is a much smaller nut right above it....
The tape is important if you want to keep the two nuts for reinstallation.....
Replacing the front nut is best done in reverse. You can reach down with the nut on the offset wrench held by painter's tape inserted into wrench first while turning the bolt with your other hand. Piece of cake.
The center nut held zeo tension on mine as the control arm bearings? were blown. I could see it breaking any bones in its way if it were good.
The back one is best put on with your bare hands while having a knee on the front radiator shroud (the metal part...) and a left hand on the engine. You leave the wrench on the nuts while tightening from inside the wheel well.
There is no spring to pry the control arm down with. Two cheapo Depot 4-4-$10 ratcheting straps did the job to pull it down. Remember to hold the bold with the hex bit if you are wondering why the bolt is not tightening. I used a Delphi part. It looked identical to OEM but used a 22mm nut in the center, not 21 mm.
Depot has cheap Husky sockets and fixed wrenches now. I guess they got tired of not selling anything. They are a better deal than Harbor if you don't have a set handy.
Bo! That's awesome details to help others out. Love this information! This is what it's all about. Helping others. Thank you for sharing.
Great video!
Thank you for watching.
Hola, excelente trabajo! Tengo un ML350 año 2012 y tiene el mismo sonido cuando pasa por un desnivel, cambie amortiguadores y bieletas de suspensión, mejoro un poco pero ahora se siente mayor el ruido como gomas chichando. Las bieletas de suspensión también tiene izquiera y derecha? Como lo identifico?
@@grecotorrealba7851 Busque el “Sway bar link” para identificar la pieza de la suspensión en Google.
La alineación es importante. ¿Hiciste esto? Si es así, sugiero verificar si la alineación es precisa
@@713jtmechanic8 01:37 its good?, 05:32 its bad?
@@713jtmechanic8
I found my problem, replaced the same components and the Mercedes came back to life.
Hello friend. So I’m about to change my front spring struts on my W164.
My question is, by doing just this procedure would I be able to take my struts out?
Thanks mate for your time! 🙏🏽
Yes, you can remove struts with this procedure.
Passanger side its all easy why didn't you show the driver side
Hello, can you please provide torque specs for the 21mm and 16mm nuts? Thank you in advance.
I don’t have them. But I can look it up.
120nm ft-lbs for 21mm
I couldn’t find for 16mm nut
Question, aren't you supposed to tighten the nut when the car is on the ground so the pressure is on the bushing and not on the bolt? I did the lower control arm on my C280 and the manual clearly specified that. I was wondering if the process is different in the ML350? I haven't gotten the shop manual yet.
Thank you for the question. I believe Delphi has a training video on the Mercedes Benz upper control arms in the same approach as seen on video. Thinking about your question. Lowering the vehicle, then tighten up the bolts sounds correct. I positioned the upper control arm in the position if the vehicle is lowered to the ground. Then I tighten up the bolts. This creates the rebound resistance. Just like the method you mentioned.
@@713jtmechanic8 I was wondering exactly that as I was watching your video! I was thinking that you might have added a jack pushing the lower control arm hence the tension on the upper control arm but, since you didn't mention that or showed it in the video, I was curious. Excellent explanation by the way! My 2010 just started making clunky noises on the driver side so, I will start inspecting it very soon. It might be a sway bar link or the bushing on the torsion bar. I can see a weekend project coming, Yeess!! Thanks again for the explanation, man. Your video will help me a great deal ;)
@@mercedesguy I really appreciate your positive feedback. This helps me to improve my communication and taking video on my work. I am still struggling to balance working on the vehicle, articulate, and do the video myself. Thank you for taking the time to watch my video and reply. I greatly appreciate it. Good luck working on your Mercedes. You will do great.
Very good video. A bit out of focus thats all. But quick and to the point! With mentioning important stuff!
👍
But I have a question. My w164 has 2 degrees negative camber. But you cannot adjust camber on this car...
Can it be fixed with standard camber bolts on this upper arm. Not the ones from Mercedes because they can only adjust 0.2 degrees...
I see I started this question earlier. Okay this is what we found. Most bushings are good. Just a little rubber loose on one upper and 1 lower arm. But not loose. And we measured camber, it ls 2 degrees off... which is rather normal for lowering springs of 4 cm / 1.57".
Camber bolts on other cars fix this issue, but on a w164 you need to adjust the upper arm... I cannot find anythng on it... Strange!
Thank you for the feedback. Still learning to use camera. Regarding adjusting camber, using a universal camber bolt or any specific camber bolt to attempt to adjust camber ML. The steering knuckle design does not have an area for such bolt to adjust camber. Camber bolts are usually to adjust camber and secure strut to knuckle. Unfortunately, it won't work on the ML. I suggest to inspect the upper and lower control arm. Inspect the bushes that connect to body of frame. Worn out bushing can cause your camber to be out of adjustment. Also, if the steering knuckle is bent, definitely it will affect the camber angle. Hope this helps. Please keep me posted. This will help out the community. Good luck .
@@713jtmechanic8 Thanks for the tips. Its indeed good to change the worn bushings first and see what changed.
Nevertheless it will have negative camber afterwards because of the coils/springs that are lowered.
I like it much better with the lowered springs lookwise... but also the driving is a bit stiffer, which gives better handling...
I was at a tuning shop and they said when camber cannot be changed, they make the holes for the bolts a bit more sideways to neutral camber... I thought it was a little strange idea, but when nothing is out there (K-mac does have arm bushings with bolts out of the middle, but they cost 500,- $ and with shiping and duty they wilk cost me 800 - 900,- $, so I'll pass... and try something else... I dont like the negative camber...!
Okay thanks! 👍
One video I watched said you can't get the bolts out on the driver's side without removing the struts 1st.... Is this true???
It’s was very difficult for me and used need extreme patience. I can’t remember exactly what the challenge was regarding the bolt. It’s been quite some time since I did this job. My apologies that I can’t give you any more details regarding the bolt. I suggest to go on Mercedes Benz forum. You may find the answer you are needing.
@@713jtmechanic8 .... But you did get it out without removing the strut or cutting the bolt?
@@corradokid90 I had a small memory. If I am not mistaken. Once the bolt was loose and nut removed. There was enough clearance to move bolt just enough for the upper control arm can be removed. But I don’t think I completely remove bolt from its position.
How did you access the nut on the driver side close to firewall. Seem virtually impossible to gain access
Yes, it was difficult. I first placed a deep shallow socket onto to nut. Then used standard size 3/8' drive ratchet, diligently placed ratchet into socket. Since the area has little clearance. I place handle of ratchet were it locks in place onto body of vehicle. This took time and patience. If this is too difficult, which I understand, I suggest to detach steering linkage and this will give the clearance needed to access nut. Make sure to place a mark on steering linkage coupler before detaching. This will give you a reference to align coupler in its original position. Good luck on the repair. Thank you for watching my video and channel.
I removed the air box assembly on the top of the engine to gain enough room to get a wrench on it - still difficult
How to get to the back upper control bolt on drivers side?
Hi Kim,
Yes, it is difficult to get to that bolt. It takes extreme patiences. Unfortunately, I could not get the camera to record the location of bolt. No clearance for camera. I can only feel the bolt head and used a wrench. It’s been quite some time sense I did this repair. I believe used the open end of wrench to secure on bolt head and turn the nut on the upper control arm gently to make the wrench lock in place against the strut tower or the steering column. Sorry, I can’t recall 100 percent. I hope this info helps
Great video but it is a 22mm nut on a 2009 ML63
I can't believe I did not mention Axle nut socket size. It was a size 35mm.
www.amazon.com/CASOMAN-2-Inch-Spindle-Impact-Socket/dp/B07X9XTGKM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=27UAE0WHV9SDT&dchild=1&keywords=axle+nut+socket+set&qid=1613702445&sprefix=axle+%2Cstripbooks%2C208&sr=8-13
This set of axle sockets is similar to mine. You will noticed the lowest size is a 29mm.
hi.what can you say about these upper levers of delphi? reliable quality?
Delphi sucks. If you have money to buy and drive a Mercedes, go with Lemfoerder suspension components.
Hey there. How did you cap off the air lines after the first conversion?
Hello! This Mercedes ML350 did not have the airbag option. However, the airline is similar to airline for semi trucks drivers seat airbags. You can go to truck parts and purchase quick fittings with a plug to cancel air at airline. Another option, if there is enough airline length, pinch the airline with vise grip pliers. Once you ready to install airline cut the airline that was pinched off.
@@713jtmechanic8 so turns out with the level sensor working the computer sees correct level and thus does not command the pump on at all for the front lines. Essentially they can just "hang out"
I am getting ready to do this job, and the lower control arms. I have the 2011 W164 also. Any advise on the lower control arm? Do you need to pull the axle out to get the ball joint nut off? Thanks for any suggestions.
Hi Paul,
I recommend to remove the axle nut. You may have to loosen the axle nut first, then hit it with hammer to break the axle loose off the Kunkle. Then remove nut. I don't see the reason to remove the entire axle, just let it hang. However, inspect the boots on the axle. Rebuild or replace axle if boots are torn. Hope this helps. Good luck.
You didn’t torque to specs that’s very important