I have used my JL Audio 500/1 slash series for 20 years with NO problems whatsoever in multiple vehicles. I have always dreamed of the JL Audio 1000/1 or maybe this RD1500!#🔊❤️
I have and love this amp. Definite improvement in sub cone control over my last 4 sub amps. I can't understand why no one has amp dyno'd this, especially with that magic impedance switch (although I have no doubt it does over rated).
The jl JD RD XDM Vxi amplifier portion Are all almost identical Unless you are going to HD series you are better off getting the JD series as they are way less expensive Unless you really feel same side connection is worth the additional money and feel power roll back is necessary And at that point if your equipment is overheating and power needs to be rolled back Might need to look into a bigger issue causing the heat in the first place Like gain settings or ventilation
It is tricky to support 1500 watts properly, so our engineering had not considered an amp that powerful until recent times. RD is testing the waters. Perhaps we may offer other 1500 options in the future, but we have no official word on that yet.
@@throwback_jackson The cars electric circuit obviously…You’ll need stout electrical to support these wattages without any unintended fires or other mishaps..
I could run an epicenter to it right im kind of new to car audio and im looking for an amp for 2 800 watt subs and I think this one would be perfect but I just want to make sure you can run an epicenter to it
Thanks for the question. That answer may be a bit more involved. You can contact our support team at 954-443-1100 or submit a support request via our help center; jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
How do you include a car's individual acoustic properties into sub box type, size and design? I have a 2006 Nissan Maxima and two choices of subs I have. I have 3-12w0v3's, or one 13w3v3-2 to work with. Currently i have the 3-12's in a ported box at 5.25ft³, with a 10"x4"x16.5" long port. Tuning freq is 27hz as i recall. I got the box specs from Carlos Chaves the Tech. Dept. Director there at JL Audio about 3 years ago. I have 2 goals im looking at. One design to be as loud as possible for each type or sound quality for each type. Sealed/ported/ 4th order/or 6th order series or parallel tuned, ill build anything. Its a lot to ask but i think my vehicles acoustics arent very good. I will be willing to build a sq and spl box for each just to see which i like best also. Of course it sounds best with the rear seats folded down but is it possible to still be as loud just porting through the rear deck and/or the center of the rear seat with the armrest removed. I just want to know if i chose the wrong type of box for the 12's. Im not concerned about power, just let me know how much i should give them(at one time i had an old Orion 225 HCCA DIgital Reference ²nd gen going to the 3 12s and it was pretty darn loud for that little amp i must say. But right now my set up is: Head unit: Pioneer DEH-X8800BTS using full range out of the RCA's. Signal proc: An Audio Control Epicenter Amp: A mint condition XTANT X603 I got back in 2003 but never installed it until the summer of 2020. Im using its internal 24db/oct x-over with the factory 90hz xover chips in it so the Epicenter gets a full range signal. Front doors: JL Audio 6"C2-600 comp set Rear doors: JL Audio 6.5"C2-650x coax's Subs: the 3-JL 12w0v3's. If im asking in the wrong place im sorry, if you could direct me to someone who maybe has this type of car or anyone with experience with my issue it would be like a gift from above. I know this is very wordy but in the past since 1993 ive owned all of these JL subs: 1-15w5, 4-10w1's, 2-12w5's, 3-8w6's,1-12w1,1-12" Power Wedge box, all of these were powered in various ways by Precision Power Art series and Sedona Series amps, Coustic Power Logic amps, Alpine headunits (7903,7915,7803s,7272s w/cd changer),Clarion 6770, and a DRX-8175 head units,Audio Control signal processors(2-EQL's,an older Epicenter, a ESP-2 spatial restorer), a PPI OMX-432 in dash 4-way X-over and a PPI PAR-224 in dash parametric eq, Stinger RCA'a and StreetWires power cables. Also MB Quart and Boston Acoustics Pro Series mids and highs.(i had to say it all) BUT ANYWAYS, thanks for letting me inquire and "vent" here.☮️👋😁👍
Thank you for reaching out! This question may be better suited for our tech team. Feel free to submit a request here: jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
![JL Audio RD1000/1 Amp Dyno Test [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2mmx07rzB9s/mqdefault.jpg)
I have used my JL Audio 500/1 slash series for 20 years with NO problems whatsoever in multiple vehicles. I have always dreamed of the JL Audio 1000/1 or maybe this RD1500!#🔊❤️
Been running this amp in my 2010 Ram for 2 years and have had zero issues with it.
Awesome!
The amp rack he puts this on is suuuper slick, love CAF!
Mark creates amazing content! We always look forward to his projects.
Any idea what rd1500/1 dynos at?
I wish I would have known about this amplifier before I brought the RD1000/1
What if you are running rca from a lc7i pro
I have and love this amp. Definite improvement in sub cone control over my last 4 sub amps.
I can't understand why no one has amp dyno'd this, especially with that magic impedance switch (although I have no doubt it does over rated).
We appreciate the love!
Wow what a cool amp! Great informative review
Glad to hear you enjoyed it!
Got this running a 12' W7. Just need the 4 channel and a dsp and to upgrade the wiring kit
The jl
JD
RD
XDM
Vxi amplifier portion
Are all almost identical
Unless you are going to HD series you are better off getting the JD series as they are way less expensive
Unless you really feel same side connection is worth the additional money and feel power roll back is necessary
And at that point if your equipment is overheating and power needs to be rolled back
Might need to look into a bigger issue causing the heat in the first place
Like gain settings or ventilation
What are the sub you guys will recommend if I will put 3 10’ sub in a jeep gladiator I have is amp RD 1500/1 plz advice ?
Just bought this amp and i wonder how it will do on 2 FI audio ib15’s…Hope that thing will slam in infinite baffle…
If you have any questions feel free to reach out to our tech team! They would love to help: jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
Why is this the only 1500
It is tricky to support 1500 watts properly, so our engineering had not considered an amp that powerful until recent times. RD is testing the waters. Perhaps we may offer other 1500 options in the future, but we have no official word on that yet.
@@JLAudioInc can you explain why it’s tricky at 1500
@@throwback_jackson The cars electric circuit obviously…You’ll need stout electrical to support these wattages without any unintended fires or other mishaps..
I could run an epicenter to it right im kind of new to car audio and im looking for an amp for 2 800 watt subs and I think this one would be perfect but I just want to make sure you can run an epicenter to it
Thanks for the question. That answer may be a bit more involved. You can contact our support team at 954-443-1100 or submit a support request via our help center; jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
How do you include a car's individual acoustic properties into sub box type, size and design? I have a 2006 Nissan Maxima and two choices of subs I have. I have 3-12w0v3's, or one 13w3v3-2 to work with. Currently i have the 3-12's in a ported box at 5.25ft³, with a 10"x4"x16.5" long port. Tuning freq is 27hz as i recall. I got the box specs from Carlos Chaves the Tech. Dept. Director there at JL Audio about 3 years ago.
I have 2 goals im looking at. One design to be as loud as possible for each type or sound quality for each type. Sealed/ported/ 4th order/or 6th order series or parallel tuned, ill build anything.
Its a lot to ask but i think my vehicles acoustics arent very good. I will be willing to build a sq and spl box for each just to see which i like best also. Of course it sounds best with the rear seats folded down but is it possible to still be as loud just porting through the rear deck and/or the center of the rear seat with the armrest removed. I just want to know if i chose the wrong type of box for the 12's. Im not concerned about power, just let me know how much i should give them(at one time i had an old Orion 225 HCCA DIgital Reference ²nd gen going to the 3 12s and it was pretty darn loud for that little amp i must say. But right now my set up is:
Head unit: Pioneer DEH-X8800BTS using
full range out of the RCA's.
Signal proc: An Audio Control Epicenter
Amp: A mint condition XTANT X603 I got
back in 2003 but never installed it
until the summer of 2020. Im using
its internal 24db/oct x-over with
the factory 90hz xover chips in it
so the Epicenter gets a full range
signal.
Front doors: JL Audio 6"C2-600 comp set
Rear doors: JL Audio 6.5"C2-650x coax's
Subs: the 3-JL 12w0v3's.
If im asking in the wrong place im sorry, if you could direct me to someone who maybe has this type of car or anyone with experience with my issue it would be like a gift from above. I know this is very wordy but in the past since 1993 ive owned all of these JL subs: 1-15w5, 4-10w1's, 2-12w5's, 3-8w6's,1-12w1,1-12" Power Wedge box, all of these were powered in various ways by Precision Power Art series and Sedona Series amps, Coustic Power Logic amps, Alpine headunits (7903,7915,7803s,7272s w/cd changer),Clarion 6770, and a DRX-8175 head units,Audio Control signal processors(2-EQL's,an older Epicenter, a ESP-2 spatial restorer), a PPI OMX-432 in dash 4-way X-over and a PPI PAR-224 in dash parametric eq, Stinger RCA'a and StreetWires power cables. Also MB Quart and Boston Acoustics Pro Series mids and highs.(i had to say it all)
BUT ANYWAYS, thanks for letting me inquire and "vent" here.☮️👋😁👍
Thank you for reaching out!
This question may be better suited for our tech team. Feel free to submit a request here: jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
Hey, I know that guy
He does look familiar , not sure