I have been in the industry for about 19 years, and all I can say is...Wow! One of the best HVAC channels on RUclips! Very well organized. Keep up the good work!
Awesome !! Videos thank you so much for you dedication to our industry. I always recommend your videos whenever I teach a class to contractors! Solid gold sir. Wayne Schneyer
Hello Mr Ty. In the middle of your conversation for soldering and brazing you mentioned that is while different topic. I did for shot periods of time refrigeration my old boss was using soldering with silver 8. And Manufacturers actually recommend for soldering than brazing and hold pressure I guess quite well. Could you please put videos on soldering vs brazing. I like it because it is low temperature than cooking the line on brazing side. Also while I was in Germany I noticed the technician was fixing my brother's Rich In since he owns restaurant with Induction brazing. It was a slick and never seen that here. Any inputs appreciated Thanks again for your time and sharing your knowledge 🙏
I am a good ways away from the brazing and soldering course. I am filming an introductory video to connections, good bad and ugly between a variety of styles and several points of view and visual aids. I have heard of induction brazing but I have never seen it first hand.
@@love2hvac Thanks. It is expensive tool But planning buying when I go on my own. No Nitrogen crap. Especially I install my filter drier in attic or wherever could be next to evap coil. I would take anything than beating 120* brazing in attic.
Hey Ty! I have searched all over google and youtube for an answer to my hvac issue and couldn't find anything - hoping you can help. I have an Emerson liquid line filter drier and a Lennox AC. When the AC completes a cooling cycle and turns off the Emerson liquid line filter creates a humming noise that lasts for a few minutes. This only happens after the AC has turned off, does not happen while the AC is cooling. Even though the hum only lasts for a few minutes it is quite annoying and can be heard throughout the main floor of the house. The Emerson liquid line filter is in my furnace room in the basement of my house. We have two stories above grade + basement. Any idea if this is a serious issue and what a potential fix might be?
It's possible the liquid is draining out of the refrigerant lines into the evaporator as the pressures equalize. You can have a solinoid valve installed before the metering device to stop the refrigerant migration but it will be an expensive installation that ironically involves changing the liquid line drier. For a simpler solution, try wrapping the drier in some foam tape we call armaflex tape and some of the liquid line as well and see if that helps.
Hello Ty. I have a long story and maybe you'll see this and give me some advice. To make long story short My central AC unit was totally rebuilt. new Evap coil, compressor. All the gauges are reporting everything is working fine but my house will not get below 80 degrees. My house was built in the 50's so it does have sheet metal duct work. it's a ranch home so no second level. The only thing I can figure is there is not much air coming from the registers. there is no blockage that I can tell. My furnace calls for a 1/3 HP blower motor. could I install a 1/2 to get more air into structure? Would low air movement keep the temp from dropping to say 75-76 degrees? I appreciate any help. I should say that I am not an HVAC person but watch all your videos. I have a Professional that does my work and it is his suggestion that I replace with a bigger blower motor.
A larger motor is not the answer. A larger motor will not move more air. You would have to increase the blower wheel size, and the blower housing size with it. For example a 1\4 horsepower blower motor spins on high speed at 1075 RPM A 3/4 horsepower blower motor on high speed spins at 1075 RPM The difference is the higher horse power motor is attached to a larger wheel that catches more air, and the larger quantify of air has more weight so the larger motor can carry the weight. (Loosly worded for simplicity) You say pressures but I can make a system show any pressure you want. Pressure means little to me. To remotely diagnose I like to see a screenshot from a program called measureqick, (video coming soon) This tells me the static pressure form the blower. Return air wet bulb, supply air wetbulb, (those 3 things calculate BTU of capacity for the evaporator) It also calculates superhero, subcolling (much more important than pressures ) Compression ratio, TD of the indoor coil, Delta T of the indoor coil / CTOA for the outdoor coil, and with compressor amps shows the EER energy effecdncy of the system. Personally I just really dislike "pressures are good" because pressure changes with temperatures. It's not a tire. If there is an airflow issue the static pressure will show up it. If the refrigeration cycle is truly operating good then On the airflow side we could have a restricted return air, restricted supply air or the ducts could be damaged loose or leaking air. If a supply duct is broken, the air loss is big but it also deoressurizes the house and the house pulls in air from outside so its a double loss. Step 1 Need a full report of the system operation and static pressure of the air side of the unit. Preferably a company that uses MEASURE QUICK with the digital probe set. I would recommend a comfort consult done. They do a blower door test on the home, best load calculation, system evaluation, and duct evaluation then give you whole home solutions. www.hvac20.com/map.html
@@love2hvac I really appreciate your help. It's a bit above my pay grade so I don't really understand much about what you say. I will pass this along to the HVAC person. Looks like the company you suggested is not very close to were I live. Again, Thanks so Much Ty!!
Well done, thank you Ty! ;) Q: Is there any way of knowing if/when the solid desiccant element is broken or shedding particles? Not knowing if it had been dropped makes me nervous, lol.
If you evacuate a system and put it under a vacuum for a extended vacuum test say 24 hours or so. Could that get all of the H2O out of a filter drier that has sat at atmospheric pressure with a leak for a prolonged period?
No, but in theory, you could heat the filter drier hot enough while under vacuum to release the moisture and then repaint it so it does not rust. It's better to just replace the filter drier and flow nitrogen while doing so. They are inexpensive and oh so important.
Grest question! Most are heatpumps have only 1 metering device that is located outside. That means there is no true and constant liquid line. This is why all the heatpumps manufactures especificado say no brazing (becuse if oxidation ) and have vacuum requirments of around 259 microns. They do have screens to catch contaminants.
It depends on how you look at it. For the regular tech with bad habits (not brazing with nitrogen, not sweeping the lines, not properly pressure testing, not pulling a proper deep vacuum and not inter purging guages between calls, then yes. They are a different animal that requires a diffrent technique. It's not better or worse just different. Some people love them, some hate them. For me I see both sides and have my own opinions.
Hellow Ty, sorry to hear you got a bad deal with your last school. I need a new school, too. If you hook up with a reputable school please let me know. I'm in the Chicago suburbs having a very bad experience taking hvac classes online. I think your in Las Vegas? I'm ready to move out of Illinois. Great people crappy politics and taxes here. I can and will move. Please contact me if you can recommend a good school where YOU teach. Thanks!
I have been in the industry for about 19 years, and all I can say is...Wow! One of the best HVAC channels on RUclips! Very well organized. Keep up the good work!
Thank you I really appreciate that!
Awesome !! Videos thank you so much for you dedication to our industry.
I always recommend your videos whenever I teach a class to contractors!
Solid gold sir.
Wayne Schneyer
Thank you Wayne!
You have some fantastic visual aids for teaching HVAC. Well done sir.
Thank you
Really appreciate Ty for this informations.God bless you.
Hello Mr Ty. In the middle of your conversation for soldering and brazing you mentioned that is while different topic. I did for shot periods of time refrigeration my old boss was using soldering with silver 8. And Manufacturers actually recommend for soldering than brazing and hold pressure I guess quite well.
Could you please put videos on soldering vs brazing. I like it because it is low temperature than cooking the line on brazing side.
Also while I was in Germany I noticed the technician was fixing my brother's Rich In since he owns restaurant with Induction brazing. It was a slick and never seen that here. Any inputs appreciated
Thanks again for your time and sharing your knowledge 🙏
I am a good ways away from the brazing and soldering course. I am filming an introductory video to connections, good bad and ugly between a variety of styles and several points of view and visual aids.
I have heard of induction brazing but I have never seen it first hand.
@@love2hvac
Thanks. It is expensive tool
But planning buying when I go on my own. No Nitrogen crap. Especially I install my filter drier in attic or wherever could be next to evap coil. I would take anything than beating 120* brazing in attic.
Well done. Thank you
the filter dryer with the double filter and beads looks like it should be suitable for hea pumps since they flow in both directions.
In Mrs Jones situation just flip the sticker. Now its the right direction.
Hey Ty! I have searched all over google and youtube for an answer to my hvac issue and couldn't find anything - hoping you can help. I have an Emerson liquid line filter drier and a Lennox AC. When the AC completes a cooling cycle and turns off the Emerson liquid line filter creates a humming noise that lasts for a few minutes. This only happens after the AC has turned off, does not happen while the AC is cooling. Even though the hum only lasts for a few minutes it is quite annoying and can be heard throughout the main floor of the house. The Emerson liquid line filter is in my furnace room in the basement of my house. We have two stories above grade + basement. Any idea if this is a serious issue and what a potential fix might be?
It's possible the liquid is draining out of the refrigerant lines into the evaporator as the pressures equalize.
You can have a solinoid valve installed before the metering device to stop the refrigerant migration but it will be an expensive installation that ironically involves changing the liquid line drier.
For a simpler solution, try wrapping the drier in some foam tape we call armaflex tape and some of the liquid line as well and see if that helps.
Where can I find the close off valves? Grainger? Johnstone?
Many supply houses carry them.
www.rsd.net/subcategory.php?parent_cat=Refrigeration%2C+AC+Parts&cat=Ball+Valves
www.johnstonesupply.com/shop/HVACR-Parts/Air-Conditioning-Refrigeration-Components/Refrigeration-Valves
climate.emerson.com/documents/bv-series-refrigeration-ball-valves-en-4858316.pdf
muellerrefrigeration.com/uploads/Mueller_Refrigeration_Catalog_2017.pdf
www.supplyhouse.com/Refrigeration-Ball-Valves-19400000
www.amazon.com/Refrig-Ball-Valve-ODF-650/dp/B01LY6JCT9
@@love2hvac thanks! I was looking through RSD website but couldn’t find the correct name…. “Welded ball valve” Time to stock up 👍🏾
Will the tap trick work when there is refrigerant in the system?
Yes sir
Hello Ty. I have a long story and maybe you'll see this and give me some advice. To make long story short My central AC unit was totally rebuilt. new Evap coil, compressor. All the gauges are reporting everything is working fine but my house will not get below 80 degrees. My house was built in the 50's so it does have sheet metal duct work. it's a ranch home so no second level. The only thing I can figure is there is not much air coming from the registers. there is no blockage that I can tell. My furnace calls for a 1/3 HP blower motor. could I install a 1/2 to get more air into structure? Would low air movement keep the temp from dropping to say 75-76 degrees? I appreciate any help. I should say that I am not an HVAC person but watch all your videos. I have a Professional that does my work and it is his suggestion that I replace with a bigger blower motor.
A larger motor is not the answer.
A larger motor will not move more air. You would have to increase the blower wheel size, and the blower housing size with it.
For example a 1\4 horsepower blower motor spins on high speed at 1075 RPM
A 3/4 horsepower blower motor on high speed spins at 1075 RPM
The difference is the higher horse power motor is attached to a larger wheel that catches more air, and the larger quantify of air has more weight so the larger motor can carry the weight. (Loosly worded for simplicity)
You say pressures but I can make a system show any pressure you want. Pressure means little to me.
To remotely diagnose I like to see a screenshot from a program called measureqick, (video coming soon)
This tells me the static pressure form the blower. Return air wet bulb, supply air wetbulb, (those 3 things calculate BTU of capacity for the evaporator)
It also calculates superhero, subcolling (much more important than pressures )
Compression ratio, TD of the indoor coil, Delta T of the indoor coil / CTOA for the outdoor coil, and with compressor amps shows the EER energy effecdncy of the system.
Personally I just really dislike "pressures are good" because pressure changes with temperatures. It's not a tire.
If there is an airflow issue the static pressure will show up it.
If the refrigeration cycle is truly operating good then
On the airflow side we could have a restricted return air, restricted supply air or the ducts could be damaged loose or leaking air.
If a supply duct is broken, the air loss is big but it also deoressurizes the house and the house pulls in air from outside so its a double loss.
Step 1
Need a full report of the system operation and static pressure of the air side of the unit. Preferably a company that uses MEASURE QUICK with the digital probe set.
I would recommend a comfort consult done. They do a blower door test on the home, best load calculation, system evaluation, and duct evaluation then give you whole home solutions.
www.hvac20.com/map.html
@@love2hvac I really appreciate your help. It's a bit above my pay grade so I don't really understand much about what you say. I will pass this along to the HVAC person. Looks like the company you suggested is not very close to were I live. Again, Thanks so Much Ty!!
Well done, thank you Ty! ;)
Q: Is there any way of knowing if/when the solid desiccant element is broken or shedding particles? Not knowing if it had been dropped makes me nervous, lol.
That's a great question.
I do not know the answer.
I will ask around and see what I find out
How much the torque should be?
hvacrschool.com/making-flare-quick-tips/
Torque specs and a tone of other information is in here!
If you evacuate a system and put it under a vacuum for a extended vacuum test say 24 hours or so. Could that get all of the H2O out of a filter drier that has sat at atmospheric pressure with a leak for a prolonged period?
No, but in theory, you could heat the filter drier hot enough while under vacuum to release the moisture and then repaint it so it does not rust.
It's better to just replace the filter drier and flow nitrogen while doing so.
They are inexpensive and oh so important.
Curious to know the reason why filter driers are not needed in mini split systems..
Grest question!
Most are heatpumps have only 1 metering device that is located outside. That means there is no true and constant liquid line.
This is why all the heatpumps manufactures especificado say no brazing (becuse if oxidation ) and have vacuum requirments of around 259 microns.
They do have screens to catch contaminants.
@@love2hvac So are they more susceptible to moisture related issues?
It depends on how you look at it.
For the regular tech with bad habits (not brazing with nitrogen, not sweeping the lines, not properly pressure testing, not pulling a proper deep vacuum and not inter purging guages between calls, then yes.
They are a different animal that requires a diffrent technique. It's not better or worse just different. Some people love them, some hate them. For me I see both sides and have my own opinions.
how to tell between solid core and bb filter drier? I have a DTG-a16030-008. Is it BB or solid core?
For anyone else. the A in the SANHUA model number is Loos core. B would be solid core
Hellow Ty, sorry to hear you got a bad deal with your last school. I need a new school, too. If you hook up with a reputable school please let me know.
I'm in the Chicago suburbs having a very bad experience taking hvac classes online. I think your in Las Vegas? I'm ready to move out of Illinois. Great
people crappy politics and taxes here. I can and will move. Please contact me if you can recommend a good school where YOU teach. Thanks!