How to Replace Front Lower Forward Control Arm 02-09 Audi A4
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
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New Control Arm with Ball Joint from 1AAuto.com www.1aauto.com...
1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace failing, rusted, rotted, or damaged front upper control arms. This video is applicable to the 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08 Audi A4
🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/tub/1AX...
• Phillips Head Screwdriver 1aau.to/tub/1AX...
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/tcW/1AX...
• 13mm Wrench 1aau.to/tmx/1AX...
• 16mm Wrench
• 17mm Wrench 1aau.to/tmx/1AX...
• 18mm Wrench
• 13mm Socket 1aau.to/t22/1AX...
• 16mm Socket 1aau.to/t22/1AX...
• 17mm Socket 1aau.to/t22/1AX...
• 18mm Socket 1aau.to/tnG/1AX...
• Acetylene torch
• Audi Wheel Cap Removal Tool
• Ball Joint Press
• Pickle Fork
• Adjustable Wrench
• Slip-Joint Pliers
• Air Chisel 1aau.to/tc/1AXA...
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/te8/1AX...
• Ratchet 1aau.to/tVc/1AX...
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/t22/1AX...
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/tmd/1AX...
• Liquid Thread Locker
• Rust Penetrant
• 7mm Allen Wrench 1aau.to/t2/1AXA...
• Chisel 1aau.to/tbj/1AX...
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/tmt/1AX...
• Hammer 1aau.to/tfX/1AX...
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/tmI/1AX...
• Pick 1aau.to/tdN/1AX...
• Rotary Tool
• Sawzall
For More Info visit us at 1aau.to/h/aTU/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
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Love that you showed all the problems with the sleeve and the trial and error to attempt to overcome that issue as that has been a huge barrier to me electing to take this on in my own garage. Hoping the heavy duty schwaben tool doesn't fail like yours did.
+Tom Ingebrigtsen Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/audi-a4-rs4-s4-control-arm-with-ball-joint/i/1asfk00852?RUclips&CTA+Comment&BmQGg
Thank you for showing all of the issues with these arms and the various techniques tried. These cars are old enough now that it will not go as easy as any of the existing diy videos show. After having to drill out the completely frozen 19 year old pinch bolts on my uppers this year, the lower control arms are on my next year list and this video very much helps to plan for that work, which apparently includes buying backup sleeves just in case.
You guys make everything look so easy...I came very close to relapsing after that job ......
it nice to see a video from a real mechanics prospective as things often go wrong on a car while fixing them. as a mechanic my self i'm way too used too things not going as planed when it comes to cars and customers never understand why there car is not ready ? . great video
+rowan wynne Thank you for watching. Expect the unexpected is a very common phrase for individuals or shops who perform repairs on cars. Depending on where you live and the vehicle is driven rust gets the worst, or other components decide to break once your main part is removed. 1aauto.com
if you were a actual mechanic you would cringe when the guy told viewers to "soak the bolts for days" and when he loosened the control arm by the bolt instead of the nut (isnt that lesson 1 at tech school?) or the fact that some ball joint separator was used instead of giving the knuckle a proper whack which would be wayy faster and less complicated, theres probably a lot more wrong with this video i just stopped watching at that point
I have a 2006 A4 with the 3.2L engine. There is not opening in the sway bar/engine mount bracket to send the lower forward control arm bolt through. You have to support the engine, remove then remove the engine mount bracket. This was not a good thing to discover since I had just replaced the engine mounts and the three bolts on each since are not supposed to be reused. One is a torque to yield. So for anyone with the 3.2L, you will find a number of differences that I have not found documented anywhere.
I remember when I replace the lower control arms and ball joint in a Ford fusion
After attempting to use that balljoint tool without success (and also breaking it), I found that a tierod balljoint separator tool works absolutely PERFECTLY, and should be the standard tool to use for this.
If you do choose to use the tool that broke, use a STEEL version, not the cast aluminum one.
Good video but can you show the more difficult side?
The hole in the sway bar/motor mount/subframe bracket is what I came here for. Thank you for your service 🖖
I will never attempt to do this job again 😮💨
good video, im just wondering, would you be able to use the air hammer to knock the thread up instead of using a seperator???, as im in the same situation where im about to use the ball joint seperator etc
Mike ur amazing and Soooooo helpful... THANK YOU
finally someone who knows how to correctly but one thing before fully tighten sway bar car had to be bounced or swinged on the sides couple of time just to self align it. I dont remember on the front witch technique had to be used search on internet.
With all that hammering, shouldn't you be wearing safety glasses? 😎👍
+My Road to Thailand Thanks for the tip!
a large Pittman arm puller is normally what I use to remove sleeve from ball joint once control arm is removed
i thought i had problems removing my lower arms. my ones had oxidized to the damper fork bolt to the bush🤬
just a quick one if you can how is camber set ? is both top and bottom arms on one set upper or lower
How many millimeters is the fork opening of ball joint separator for audi a4 b6 2001 year?
If access is bad its alot easier to drop the anti roll bar off that side and put it back on last
I thought our A4 was a used flood car from the Katrina hurricane event with the rust and seized bolts.
The top control arm bolt has been almost as frustrating as this video. I can only imagine the edited footage and cursing.
Great vid, where did you purchase the sleeve from?
good video thanks
Radman SA *
do you have to force up the wheel to ride height to tighten the bolts?
+John Altamirano Yes, you want to put the weight of the vehicle on the suspension and then tighten the bolts. We carry the control arms shown in this video on our website. Here's a link to them www.1aauto.com/audi-a4-rs4-s4-control-arm-with-ball-joint/i/1asfk00852?RUclips&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Ok 'A1 Auto' in the video you say that it should be in between the suspension hanging and the weight of the car on it.... So is it with the weight of the car or in between???
What size is that front axle boot bolt that's right in the center ??
Do you have all the torque specs for a D3 Audi A8
i am having trouble connecting the passenger lower rear controller arm on my 2008 A4 its not going nearly as easy as yall made it look, any tips or suggestions ?
try harder
I'm attempting this tomorrow. Does anyone know if the given torque values are correct for the subframe bolt and the sway bar link bolt. Elsawin says 70Nm + 180 degrees and 40Nm + 90 degrees respectively which differs quite a bit from the video.
Forget his torque settings and method. I wouldn't let my son watch this. I'd want him to know how to do it properly. Total idiot - grrr
this is because he reused same bolts so modified the torque settings, factory torque settings are for using TTY bolts that you are supposed to replace each time. i know many that dont.
Anyone here able help me out? So i have recently replaced the control arm.
After putting everything back together, the suspension seems to ump back up but light stays on, main issue is that the car when shifted into drive changes its revs and will not move forward, nor will it reverse.
Then putting it back into park it makes a horrible grinding noise, any ideas? Thanks guys
Lock tight are for bolt treads 🤦🏽♂️
lol. No thanks.
I was on your site . but I notice a huge difference in prices from you guys and everyone else ... you guys offer the pair of control arms for $76 . and every where else is $90+ each ... ???
We order these in bulk, so we pass the savings on to our customers. Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
1A Auto Parts are this a certain brand ?
Need to buy this tomorrow.
let me know .. thanks .
@@1AAuto Like your crap ball joint splitters? :) No thanks!!
Lol, umm gas,
Hey nice clear vid, however convinced me not to tackle this on driveway without a post ramp🥲🥲🚗🚗