Just did these myself, and noticed watching your video. ALWAYS make sure the threaded end of the bolt and nut for the shock to lower control arm go on the side NOT facing the CV. They can and will rip the boots. I tried flipping my own around and paid for it.
Love your b5 videos bro, you should make more of them. One note: those main subframe bolts should really be replaced once loosened. They’re stretch bolts and they go 81ft/lb then 90deg. If they break or loosen up on you you’re in for a BAD day. The smaller two bolts behind them are only 22ft lb.
Great video work.. nice voice and great description... top class work not many preload bushings.. stops creaks when driving in dry weather and gives rubber bushings longer life.... top class man... thank you.. also nut sizes.. 👍👍👍
Muy bueno los videos del passat que marca de brazos son mejores para ese carro tengo uno y le sufro para conseguir unos buenos Gracias por poner videos así tan detallados nos ayudas a personas que tenemos ciertos problemas con esos carros
The pinch bolt became one with the steering knuckle assembly by way of corrosion. had to drill, cut, torch, and airhammer it out! Other side looking the same way! @@CraftyWorkshopBuilds
Yea, it's a common issue on these cars. The only good thing about this car, is that the knuckle is steel. On the b7 audi it's aluminum, I broke a knuckle trying to remove the pinch bolt on the audi.
@Crafty Hey man great vid showing the work. I noticed you didnt mention that the the upper control arms have to be at a 45ish degree angle from the top hat when tighten them down. And all of the other bolts need to be torqued under load. I have done both sides of my car and gone over every nut and bolt 5 times and i still get a low speed clunk from both sides of the car like when i hit a bump or pothole, and its individual, any idea what could be loose or need checking. I have replaced inner and outter tie rods, i have also checked the bolts for the steering rack, to make sure they are not loose. Did you have any clunking after the repair? I noticed you didnt do the front shocks like i did but again ive double checked them all!!! Thanks!
I had the same problem, and it turned out the drive axle was worn and on its way to failure on the input shift side. It took a trip to the dealerships to figure it out, despite all my efforts.
@@owl1873 Hey owl, I appreciate the reply, I will double check mine! When i bought the car just over 2 years ago both CV axles were shot (clunking under acceleration) and i replaced them with DSS axles, and its been great ever since, but now i have bad alignment on my right front tire and vibratations at any speed above 80. Im not sure if CV axles would also cause this issue after replacing suspension parts... Still stumped and the forums are of little help with this issue.
greetings. very nice and good. but..... I have only one suggestion. the bolts on the arms are tightened when the wheel is down and the weight of the car is on it
@@CraftyWorkshopBuilds Hi, I have a 2004 vw Passat TDI 4motion in Ireland.. it's lacking power going uphill and has a whistling sound, doesn't Smoke Alot. I've changed fuel filter
@@CraftyWorkshopBuilds The Map Sensor doesn't work as the power cable is faulty. Pliss advise me on tips to follow to solve ths problem. Thanks. He's.
Hello, thank you for your video. I plan on replacing the front control arms of my b5.5 Passat and I’m wondering if the kit you purchased is holding up well?
@@CraftyWorkshopBuilds just a random question, since I’ve got my B5.5 Passat v6 glx I have been having trouble with a check engine light for secondary air injection system and evap leak. Have you had any problems with your B5.5 Passat with one or both of these issues?
@@davidcorreira5411 their is a black plastic hose running from an air pump to your intake , my 2000 passat 1,8 t has the same issue, i rebuilt the motor and still have the same cracked pipe lol. still in limpmode. a fix would be to put in a bath of water and find the holes and jb weld it , or buy new but they are expensive
@@owl1873 cider? You mean like apple cider? Please explain because I’m going through hell with my spare knuckle and I can’t air hammer the bolt out with my baby hammer or the big boy Matco air hammer lol.
hi mate, did you pre load the top bolts too? then tighten. i think this was my mistake, causing the the bush to fail early, the rest need done anyway so ill give it another bash
Hi man! Can you give an accurate estimate of the tightening torque to apply or did you tighten the bolts at a rough guess? All my greetings from France.
Get the chiltons book, but most of the bolts are torque to yield and while under load, so you set them to a certain torque then you go 90 degrees past, while you have upward pressure on the suspension (a jack under the steering nuckle will work to get it to ride height position. I dont have my book in front of me but most of the passat forums should help with numbers.
Sheesh, well the good news is now that you've removed them, they will be alot easier to remove in the near future. It's always a pain to remove bolts, that's never been pulled since it came from the factory, on older cars.
Have you driven these cars with Koni Shocks as I see you have Bilsteins? I have Koni on mine but I've never driven a car with Bilsteins so I'm a bit curious. Tnx.
![How to change front suspension arm on VW PASSAT 5 (B5) [AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0-_XgFMUz6Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Great quality video you have made here. It's well edited, easy to follow, and outlines what you can expect when doing the job. Thanks for making this!
much respect, I'm happy you found this video helpful! that's my goal, to make videos that are easy to follow and understand 💪🏽
Just did these myself, and noticed watching your video. ALWAYS make sure the threaded end of the bolt and nut for the shock to lower control arm go on the side NOT facing the CV. They can and will rip the boots. I tried flipping my own around and paid for it.
so have the head of the bolt facing the cv shaft?
@viakion2125 yessir
OG out here, the only one making good b5 vids, thank you !
Much respect👍🏽
Great tutorial my man. I plan on soaking all the connection nut an bolts for a few days prior to disassembly. Hopefully it will make things easier.
Love your b5 videos bro, you should make more of them. One note: those main subframe bolts should really be replaced once loosened. They’re stretch bolts and they go 81ft/lb then 90deg. If they break or loosen up on you you’re in for a BAD day. The smaller two bolts behind them are only 22ft lb.
Great video work.. nice voice and great description... top class work not many preload bushings.. stops creaks when driving in dry weather and gives rubber bushings longer life.... top class man... thank you.. also nut sizes.. 👍👍👍
much respect 👍🏽 yea, preloading is important for sure. thanks for watching
Man i love these passat vids! I want my fresco green wagon back
Much respect! Yea, these cars were built solid.
My favorite color for the B5 wagon.
@@CraftyWorkshopBuilds hello bro please Tell me what brand You recomand for arm set front Something good not expensive or what îs the best for You?
@@dimaadi5679 hi sir if your in usa or canada check rock auto for moog controlarms, they are on wholesaler discount right now!! Moog!
Muy bueno los videos del passat que marca de brazos son mejores para ese carro tengo uno y le sufro para conseguir unos buenos Gracias por poner videos así tan detallados nos ayudas a personas que tenemos ciertos problemas con esos carros
Eres el mejor, no sabes cuanto me ayudan tus videos, felicidades y muchas gracias!
Thanks for the video, so chill, but very useful 🤟
Much respect, I'm happy you found this helpful!
nice one bro! I am not so fortunate with my upper pinch bolt situation, and right side steering knuckles are now like hens teeth!
I struggled to remove the upper pinch bolt in a previous video. But I put lots of anti seize on it, that's why it came out easy this time.
The pinch bolt became one with the steering knuckle assembly by way of corrosion. had to drill, cut, torch, and airhammer it out! Other side looking the same way! @@CraftyWorkshopBuilds
Yea, it's a common issue on these cars. The only good thing about this car, is that the knuckle is steel. On the b7 audi it's aluminum, I broke a knuckle trying to remove the pinch bolt on the audi.
@@CraftyWorkshopBuilds that sounds like a really great day!
finally getting in it doing the driver side lowers today, your video is awesome help my dude!
@Crafty Hey man great vid showing the work. I noticed you didnt mention that the the upper control arms have to be at a 45ish degree angle from the top hat when tighten them down. And all of the other bolts need to be torqued under load. I have done both sides of my car and gone over every nut and bolt 5 times and i still get a low speed clunk from both sides of the car like when i hit a bump or pothole, and its individual, any idea what could be loose or need checking. I have replaced inner and outter tie rods, i have also checked the bolts for the steering rack, to make sure they are not loose. Did you have any clunking after the repair? I noticed you didnt do the front shocks like i did but again ive double checked them all!!! Thanks!
I had the same problem, and it turned out the drive axle was worn and on its way to failure on the input shift side. It took a trip to the dealerships to figure it out, despite all my efforts.
@@owl1873 Hey owl, I appreciate the reply, I will double check mine! When i bought the car just over 2 years ago both CV axles were shot (clunking under acceleration) and i replaced them with DSS axles, and its been great ever since, but now i have bad alignment on my right front tire and vibratations at any speed above 80. Im not sure if CV axles would also cause this issue after replacing suspension parts... Still stumped and the forums are of little help with this issue.
This video also explains my knocking exactly!
ruclips.net/video/jyaW-4gbdyM/видео.html
greetings. very nice and good. but..... I have only one suggestion. the bolts on the arms are tightened when the wheel is down and the weight of the car is on it
Great job 👍
respect 👍🏽
I looooove passat videos!!! More videos please!
For sure! More Passat videos coming up.
@@CraftyWorkshopBuilds
Hi, I have a 2004 vw Passat TDI 4motion in Ireland.. it's lacking power going uphill and has a whistling sound, doesn't Smoke Alot. I've changed fuel filter
@@CraftyWorkshopBuilds
The Map Sensor doesn't work as the power cable is faulty. Pliss advise me on tips to follow to solve ths problem. Thanks.
He's.
Thanks for the help!
much respect 👍🏽
Hello, thank you for your video. I plan on replacing the front control arms of my b5.5 Passat and I’m wondering if the kit you purchased is holding up well?
Yes, the kit is still on the car and holding up well.
@@CraftyWorkshopBuilds just a random question, since I’ve got my B5.5 Passat v6 glx I have been having trouble with a check engine light for secondary air injection system and evap leak. Have you had any problems with your B5.5 Passat with one or both of these issues?
@@davidcorreira5411 their is a black plastic hose running from an air pump to your intake , my 2000 passat 1,8 t has the same issue, i rebuilt the motor and still have the same cracked pipe lol. still in limpmode. a fix would be to put in a bath of water and find the holes and jb weld it , or buy new but they are expensive
The anger boiling in me watching you take that pinch bolt out so smooth bro I hate your luck🤣
Lol, you gotta watch the front shocks replacement video. That's when I struggled to remove it, I made sure I put alot of anti-seize on it.
Whenever it's tight, just soak it in cider.
@@owl1873 cider? You mean like apple cider? Please explain because I’m going through hell with my spare knuckle and I can’t air hammer the bolt out with my baby hammer or the big boy Matco air hammer lol.
@@MauriceEllerbeeI had to heat mine up tell it was glowing red.
@@rileygomolchuk7258 even glowing red I still didn’t break it free bro lol
Appreciate the help!
Does anyone know where I can find the sleeve for the lower rear control arms? Or have its measurements?
hi mate, did you pre load the top bolts too? then tighten. i think this was my mistake, causing the the bush to fail early, the rest need done anyway so ill give it another bash
What is the silver stuff you put on upper control arm?
It's anti seize
Hi man! Can you give an accurate estimate of the tightening torque to apply or did you tighten the bolts at a rough guess? All my greetings from France.
Get the chiltons book, but most of the bolts are torque to yield and while under load, so you set them to a certain torque then you go 90 degrees past, while you have upward pressure on the suspension (a jack under the steering nuckle will work to get it to ride height position. I dont have my book in front of me but most of the passat forums should help with numbers.
I miss my reflx silver b5.5 4motion, it was soo good
Get another one, lol.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Great video too bad I had to use oxyacetylene to get all my bolts out.
Sheesh, well the good news is now that you've removed them, they will be alot easier to remove in the near future. It's always a pain to remove bolts, that's never been pulled since it came from the factory, on older cars.
Have you driven these cars with Koni Shocks as I see you have Bilsteins? I have Koni on mine but I've never driven a car with Bilsteins so I'm a bit curious. Tnx.
No, I have not. The Bilsteins are good and are holding up well.
great video
Much respect 👍🏽
The front control arm does not come off easy I had to take the knuckle off and turn it upside to whack with a hammer.
No anti seize needed on lower control arms? Didn’t see you do it.
if the car is old no point really but u could if u wanted, locktite on the threads, no antiseaze on threads
thank you
Much respect!
Veri good
Nice🎉
Thanks for watching!
Warum ziehst du die querlenker Schrauben im aufgebockten Zustand fest. Die Schrauben musst du im eingefederten Zustand Festziehen
yep some guys wont do this, causing the rubber to be spun extra at ride height and cause premature wear
👍👍👏👏👌
👍🏽