Hi everyone, unfortunately incorrect tightening torques were given in some parts of the video: At 7:01, the correct tightening torque is 50 N⋅m At 7:42, the correct tightening torque is 22 N⋅m At 10:03, the correct tightening torque is 40-50 N⋅m At 9:51, the correct tightening torque is 90 N⋅m
As an added bonus, it would be super helpful if the parts being removed/replaced were named as a subtitle or even better, a microfiche layout. It's good to see how it all connects and the sequence.
Hi, the front suspension arms of the Volkswagen Passat have a code on them, how do you know which is left and which is right, thank you, I'm waiting for an answer
@@melcruz672 you have to remove the strut with the top mount still attached but you don't need to separate the top mount from the strut(shock absorber) if you're only changing the upper control arms
The newer Audi group cars are better designed most of them allow you to remove the upper control arms with out removing the shocker it's all about the space and access available on certain models remeber and tighten the upper arms in a raised position taking into account the weight of the car when on the ground you can potentially destroy the new bushes before time
Thank you for your comment! There are a number of symptoms of the wear of the suspension arm: - the car moves to the side when the steering wheel is straight; - steering is indistinct or, conversely, very sensitive; - the car starts to scour, and you have to "catch" it. This is especially felt even in a small rut; - while driving over bumps, a knock or the grinding sound is heard; - the squeak is appeared when turning wheels - the uneven wear of the tire tread; - The wheel responses to steering with delays; - when braking, the car pulls to the right or left. If you feel at least one of the symptoms, we recommend you immediately to visit the proffesional car workshop for a complete diagnosis and replacement of the worn out unit. Stay tuned with us! Best regards, Autodoc team!
Thank you for your comment! Unfortunately, we do not have such a video, but we can recommend a playlist for Mercedes-Benz S W140: ruclips.net/video/6wXQVrz1cD8/видео.html ruclips.net/video/xwC9_HZvIoU/видео.html Stay tuned with us and follow our new tutorials coming every week. Best Regards, Autodoc team
The body parts sold primer Please contact our Customer support service, where we will definitely try to help you with the selection of a wing for your car. Best Regards, Autodoc team
Sorry guys but you’re making this look an easy job and it is one you get that top pinch bolt released ,but it never comes out easily on a car this age. It’s usually rusted solidly and requires some serious work to release it unless you have the special too to drift it out. And that bottom shock absorber bolt is traditionally fitted by VW the opposite way round and doesn’t pull completely out as it hits the other arm. Sorry but this is over simplification of a job that many might now tackle and find ,they cannot do.
Thank you for your comment! Unfortunately, on each machine, the complexity of the replacement is individual, it all depends on the technical condition of the parts. Our videos are only informative in the sequence of replacement and to save time, we weaken some nodes earlier. Best Regards, Autodoc team.
I can help you remove the pinch bolt in 5 minutes. But you need a new pinch bolt after removing the old one. Get a drill theat can work only with hammering no rotation. Now get a star shaped drill bit theat is smaller then the bolt. I think I don't need to tell you the rest. Have a nice day.
Haha that's fucking hilarious there's no way the pinch bolt will come out like that haha good luck trying that one for yourself ,no amount of wd40 will help and that shitey wee punch will not do shit to the majority of these seized in pinch bolts, hahahahaha
Thank you for your feedback! Some of the elements of this replacement procedure have been skipped in order to make this tutorial easier to watch for our viewers. Be sure to subscribe to our channel in order to watch more useful videos in the days ahead. Best regards, Autodoc team!
![How to change front suspension arm / front control arm on VW PASSAT B6 (3C5) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/azYkmQfFYgI/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi everyone, unfortunately incorrect tightening torques were given in some parts of the video:
At 7:01, the correct tightening torque is 50 N⋅m
At 7:42, the correct tightening torque is 22 N⋅m
At 10:03, the correct tightening torque is 40-50 N⋅m
At 9:51, the correct tightening torque is 90 N⋅m
What is the correct height setting for the arm? If the bush is tightened at the wrong rotational position it will not work well and wear out.
It is not possible to answer your question; you can find this information in the technical documentation for repairing your car.
awesome production. thanks to all involved.
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
Great videos, clear & concise instructions 👍🏻
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
As an added bonus, it would be super helpful if the parts being removed/replaced were named as a subtitle or even better, a microfiche layout. It's good to see how it all connects and the sequence.
instablaster
Why did you only replace the one control are instead of both?
Hi, the front suspension arms of the Volkswagen Passat have a code on them, how do you know which is left and which is right, thank you, I'm waiting for an answer
Please contact our Customer support team and we will definitely try to help you.
Also you don't need to remove the top mount from the shocker to change the arms
I hope so. Thanks
I have to do this so you saying i don't have to remove strut
@@melcruz672 you have to remove the strut with the top mount still attached but you don't need to separate the top mount from the strut(shock absorber) if you're only changing the upper control arms
The newer Audi group cars are better designed most of them allow you to remove the upper control arms with out removing the shocker it's all about the space and access available on certain models remeber and tighten the upper arms in a raised position taking into account the weight of the car when on the ground you can potentially destroy the new bushes before time
The worst bit of the job is removing the long pinch bolt from the hub carrier assembly , you usually need heat and a good course of action
great video,
however, good luck with removing the long pinch bolt on the top control arms that easily!
Thank you for sharing your opinion!
AUTODOC
How do you know when needs to replace?
Thank you for your comment!
There are a number of symptoms of the wear of the suspension arm:
- the car moves to the side when the steering wheel is straight;
- steering is indistinct or, conversely, very sensitive;
- the car starts to scour, and you have to "catch" it. This is especially felt even in a small rut;
- while driving over bumps, a knock or the grinding sound is heard;
- the squeak is appeared when turning wheels
- the uneven wear of the tire tread;
- The wheel responses to steering with delays;
- when braking, the car pulls to the right or left.
If you feel at least one of the symptoms, we recommend you immediately to visit the proffesional car workshop for a complete diagnosis and replacement of the worn out unit.
Stay tuned with us!
Best regards,
Autodoc team!
The clamping bolt is so rusted is stuck and I can’t remove it
Thank you for your comment!
Unfortunately, we do not have such a video, but we can recommend a playlist for Mercedes-Benz S W140:
ruclips.net/video/6wXQVrz1cD8/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/xwC9_HZvIoU/видео.html
Stay tuned with us and follow our new tutorials coming every week.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Калници в тоя цвят имаш ли коланга?
The body parts sold primer
Please contact our Customer support service, where we will definitely try to help you with the selection of a wing for your car.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
dobra robota :) fajny film
Good video
Good 👍👍👍
Sorry guys but you’re making this look an easy job and it is one you get that top pinch bolt released ,but it never comes out easily on a car this age. It’s usually rusted solidly and requires some serious work to release it unless you have the special too to drift it out.
And that bottom shock absorber bolt is traditionally fitted by VW the opposite way round and doesn’t pull completely out as it hits the other arm.
Sorry but this is over simplification of a job that many might now tackle and find ,they cannot do.
Thank you for your comment!
Unfortunately, on each machine, the complexity of the replacement is individual, it all depends on the technical condition of the parts.
Our videos are only informative in the sequence of replacement and to save time, we weaken some nodes earlier.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team.
autodoc.co.uk What a poor response
I can help you remove the pinch bolt in 5 minutes. But you need a new pinch bolt after removing the old one. Get a drill theat can work only with hammering no rotation. Now get a star shaped drill bit theat is smaller then the bolt. I think I don't need to tell you the rest. Have a nice day.
@@brianmcmillan2272 comment up
Haha that's fucking hilarious there's no way the pinch bolt will come out like that haha good luck trying that one for yourself ,no amount of wd40 will help and that shitey wee punch will not do shit to the majority of these seized in pinch bolts, hahahahaha
Thank you for your feedback!
Some of the elements of this replacement procedure have been skipped in order to make this tutorial easier to watch for our viewers.
Be sure to subscribe to our channel in order to watch more useful videos in the days ahead.
Best regards,
Autodoc team!