hi,great introduction video,just bought one second hand off ebay,was not sure how it worked,bought router and jig too,for kitchen install,will use this saw for the upstands and trims,came with a 30 t blade,will get a high tooth blade,smooth cut ,worked out how to get the blade off ,as was dull,was used on fire wood,chop saw for wood burner ,got skirting and door frames to do,finish off kitchen trims,got get jigsaw next for the sink ,love the dewalt 110v stuff ,yellow plug,no one borrows my tools then,as 110v ,very helpfull video,thanks
Thanks Richard, did you get the worktop mason’s mitre jig for the router? I’ve been looking around for a spare bit of worktop to do a walkthrough of it with mine, Gid Joiner has about the best video i could find on here, the most important thing is making sure you start the cutter at the front edge which means you cut one side upside down. And if you have a 1/2” router and the worktop bits for cutting the mitre you may as well cut the sink aperture with it 😊.
Very useful vid, I had short-listed this to do some skirtings at home but it was too limited to the size of skirting I could cut. So the good and very Nobex came out of retirement and still does a fine job albeit requiring muscle power. Thank you 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I really liked your review , i am thinking of buying one , and its this one that will suit me , a first timer if you like , very informative , many thanks...
Great video Just purchased this model manual complete waste of time. Online manual impossible to find. Learnt everything I needed to know in 10mins by watching video Thanks
Hi, best review I've seen for this machine - thanks. I'm about to get my first mitre saw and this is top of my list. The only down side I have found on other reviews is that due to the fact that the sliders are on top of each other rather than side by side there is quite some flex in the head, like movement left to right if using at 90° and worsens as the sliders are extended. Have you experienced this is or is no worse than others sliders in this price range. Cheers for any advice.
Hi Dean and thanks for the compliment. Both this and my big Metabo will flex a little in some situations. With a straight 90 cut and a sharp blade I’ve not had any issues. The further you get toward the extremes of angle, particularly with a blunt blade the less accurate they both get. I can’t say I’ve compared to anything else but I know when I did my composite decking I used the DeWalt and the composite trashed the blade. I then tried to do a compound angle in something like 4 x 2 and it actually cut at almost a radius as the blade wandered. Key points are: Sharp blade, clamp the workpiece, pull the saw down at the same angle as the blade, don’t rush it. At that setup I’ve got no complaints but in fairness it’s not really a pro level tool like a Kapex or whatever.
@@oldmanwith thanks for prompt reply. I thought there must be some play in pretty much all of them in this price bracket. Good advice (again) on how to minimise any problems that it might cause. Cheers Dean
Hi Kevin, no unless somebody knows different the best you’ll get is lock it in the down position and swing it fully to one side. I think you’ll struggle to find anything that goes small enough to fit a TSTAK, I’ve got a DeWalt router in a TSTAK and the mitre saw is waaaaay bigger than that box. I have mine on a shelf about head height which keeps them out of the way but it’s a struggle getting it there these days. If you’re seriously challenged for space you might find an MFT setup and a track saw works better as an option. It’s on my plan to do an explanation of my MFT sometime.
Hello, can I ask you about precision of miter angle? I have the same saw and if I set precision miter angle 90deg, angle 45 deg is not precision. It is less (about 43deg) Problem is that the plate with holes is not precise. I am not sure if it is only my problem or if it is general problem.
Hi Marek, when I got mine I found it was badly adjusted for the plate. I actually thought the plate was wrong but I found actually my square was wrong. When I checked and set it with a new square the 90 and the 45’s were ok. And 2 degrees out is a lot! Can you take it back? I‘ll also add that I use the 90 a lot but I hardly ever use the 45’s. I’d actually be happier if it didn’t have holes at 45 because I’d just use the clamp. Hope that helps.
That’s pretty much it Dave. It has no depth stop and it slides at an angle rather than the nodding head type that can do a fixed depth cut. So to be 100% factual, you could cut a tenon or a channel but it might be awful because there’s no depth control. There’s been a couple of questions about this so I might do another vid on jt
@@oldmanwith Thanks for the confirmation and your suggestion to resolve it . For me its a deal breaker . Such a shame as I usually buy Dewalt . Keep posting those videos . 👍
Thanks Dave, just had a browse through the UK Dewalt site, looks like they do a 184mm, a 250mm and a 305mm with the nodding head style that you’d need but you’re starting at £350+. Can’t see if they actually have a depth stop though. I’ve done some video to explain it better, just need to find some time to edit and load it. Good luck in your search.
The DWS774 is not much more expensive, and has lights which cast an image of the blade on the workpiece. Having used this facility, I couldn't do without it.
Hi yes you’re right, when I made the video originally it was quite a lot more expensive, I had a comment in the description about it at the time because it was the only one available on Amazon. Then the 773 came back on Amazon so I changed the wording in the description 🙄 I’ll put a mention on there again now, thanks and glad you find it useful.
@quebraho Hi, to be honest, I use a standard wet and dry vacuum cleaner from Wickes, a UK store. It’s on this link here www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Wet+Dry-Vacuum-with-Blower-20L---1250W/p/215735 I got a proper filter for it on Amazon instead of the bag it comes with. It’s not a full dust extractor though
@@danielbrooks8520 Hi Daniel, it’s a 32mm push fit and it just about fits my Wickes wet vac perfectly. I glued it on with hot melt but it needs redoing with araldite or something
Hi Steve, I don’t guarantee I’m correct but I believe it’s so you can cut just a bit tighter than two halves of a 90 degree. I guess the reasoning behind this is the builders don’t always build walls or install door frames etc dead square. So if your angle for your skirting or baseboard is tighter than 90 you can still cut to suit. No such thing as late in this by the way 👍
I’ve just uploaded a video discussing sharp angle cuts generally. In honesty it’s probably not the answer you’re looking for but maybe it’ll help. Thanks for commenting 😊 ruclips.net/video/xTLNN2nXtsw/видео.htmlsi=9fywd_wNOxqH_v3C
Thanks for the feedback Andrew. Couple of tips: Always clamp your work because if you’re angle cutting it WILL move otherwise. When you’ve finished a cut, let the blade stop spinning before you release it back up out of the work. Good luck and hope you get on well with it
@@oldmanwith Thank you so much for the reply, I had been doing the opposite of what you’ve just mentioned and the angle was slightly out, I’ll try what you’ve mentioned and hopefully improve a bit. But all said I am really happy with it, it’s a lot better than my old one.
@@oldmanwith hi there I see u use a dust vacuum could u tell me what size white elbow u using as an adapter to come from the saw to vax nozzle looks like a waste elbow ?? Thanks and great review
Hi There A Great video! I heard that you used the saw for composite decking I am thinking of buying same one for my composite decking project. is it better to do the chop or sliding cut to cut composite decking? also does the blade leave a clean cut thanks danny
Hi Danny, thanks for watching and your comments! If you're going to use similar decking then you won't have an option on the cut. The saw doesn't lift high enough to stand the boards upright so you'll only be able to cut them flat. In terms of the cut quality, I'd used the composite lumber to build the base and it killed the blade. I should have replaced it or had it sharpened before I cut the boards. That said, all I got was a bit of a ragged edge which I trimmed off with a deburring tool like this: amzn.to/2XoxZX7 Sandpaper or a file would more than likely work just as well. If I get 10 minutes this afternoon I'll do a quick video on what I mean.
@@oldmanwith Hi I was thinking about using this composite blade made by D Walt would this fit the mitre saw?? www.amazon.co.uk/DEWALT-DWA31740-Composite-Decking-Blade/dp/B01GLYT95A
Ah I get you now I think. So, assuming your boards are 100mm or more in width, you’ll have to use the slide and chop function together. Really depends on board width. You’ll have to have them flat, you have no other choice. I’m just editing up a quick video that might give a bit more info for you, should be up tonight or early tomorrow
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hi,great introduction video,just bought one second hand off ebay,was not sure how it worked,bought router and jig too,for kitchen install,will use this saw for the upstands and trims,came with a 30 t blade,will get a high tooth blade,smooth cut ,worked out how to get the blade off ,as was dull,was used on fire wood,chop saw for wood burner ,got skirting and door frames to do,finish off kitchen trims,got get jigsaw next for the sink ,love the dewalt 110v stuff ,yellow plug,no one borrows my tools then,as 110v ,very helpfull video,thanks
Thanks Richard, did you get the worktop mason’s mitre jig for the router? I’ve been looking around for a spare bit of worktop to do a walkthrough of it with mine, Gid Joiner has about the best video i could find on here, the most important thing is making sure you start the cutter at the front edge which means you cut one side upside down. And if you have a 1/2” router and the worktop bits for cutting the mitre you may as well cut the sink aperture with it 😊.
Very useful vid, I had short-listed this to do some skirtings at home but it was too limited to the size of skirting I could cut. So the good and very Nobex came out of retirement and still does a fine job albeit requiring muscle power. Thank you 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
I really liked your review , i am thinking of buying one , and its this one that will suit me , a first timer if you like , very informative , many thanks...
Thanks Hans, hope you get on well with it
Great video
Just purchased this model manual complete waste of time. Online manual impossible to find.
Learnt everything I needed to know in 10mins by watching video
Thanks
Thanks Julian, glad it helped 👍
Hi, best review I've seen for this machine - thanks. I'm about to get my first mitre saw and this is top of my list. The only down side I have found on other reviews is that due to the fact that the sliders are on top of each other rather than side by side there is quite some flex in the head, like movement left to right if using at 90° and worsens as the sliders are extended. Have you experienced this is or is no worse than others sliders in this price range. Cheers for any advice.
Hi Dean and thanks for the compliment. Both this and my big Metabo will flex a little in some situations. With a straight 90 cut and a sharp blade I’ve not had any issues. The further you get toward the extremes of angle, particularly with a blunt blade the less accurate they both get. I can’t say I’ve compared to anything else but I know when I did my composite decking I used the DeWalt and the composite trashed the blade. I then tried to do a compound angle in something like 4 x 2 and it actually cut at almost a radius as the blade wandered. Key points are: Sharp blade, clamp the workpiece, pull the saw down at the same angle as the blade, don’t rush it. At that setup I’ve got no complaints but in fairness it’s not really a pro level tool like a Kapex or whatever.
@@oldmanwith thanks for prompt reply. I thought there must be some play in pretty much all of them in this price bracket. Good advice (again) on how to minimise any problems that it might cause. Cheers Dean
Hi, Great review, how does this store away if not being left on the workbench, would it go into a T STAK Box?
Hi Kevin, no unless somebody knows different the best you’ll get is lock it in the down position and swing it fully to one side. I think you’ll struggle to find anything that goes small enough to fit a TSTAK, I’ve got a DeWalt router in a TSTAK and the mitre saw is waaaaay bigger than that box. I have mine on a shelf about head height which keeps them out of the way but it’s a struggle getting it there these days. If you’re seriously challenged for space you might find an MFT setup and a track saw works better as an option. It’s on my plan to do an explanation of my MFT sometime.
Hello, can I ask you about precision of miter angle? I have the same saw and if I set precision miter angle 90deg, angle 45 deg is not precision. It is less (about 43deg) Problem is that the plate with holes is not precise. I am not sure if it is only my problem or if it is general problem.
Hi Marek, when I got mine I found it was badly adjusted for the plate. I actually thought the plate was wrong but I found actually my square was wrong. When I checked and set it with a new square the 90 and the 45’s were ok. And 2 degrees out is a lot! Can you take it back? I‘ll also add that I use the 90 a lot but I hardly ever use the 45’s. I’d actually be happier if it didn’t have holes at 45 because I’d just use the clamp. Hope that helps.
@@oldmanwith thanx for reply. It looks my plate is wrong. I tested two squares.
That’s bad news, I’ll take a quick look at mine later, see if I missed anything.
Hi Marek, see if anything here helps ruclips.net/video/7BxMDlxdEaI/видео.html
Great info. So what you're saying is it cuts wood in two. You're unable to cut a mortice / tenon?
That’s pretty much it Dave. It has no depth stop and it slides at an angle rather than the nodding head type that can do a fixed depth cut. So to be 100% factual, you could cut a tenon or a channel but it might be awful because there’s no depth control. There’s been a couple of questions about this so I might do another vid on jt
@@oldmanwith Thanks for the confirmation and your suggestion to resolve it . For me its a deal breaker . Such a shame as I usually buy Dewalt . Keep posting those videos . 👍
Thanks Dave, just had a browse through the UK Dewalt site, looks like they do a 184mm, a 250mm and a 305mm with the nodding head style that you’d need but you’re starting at £350+. Can’t see if they actually have a depth stop though. I’ve done some video to explain it better, just need to find some time to edit and load it. Good luck in your search.
The DWS774 is not much more expensive, and has lights which cast an image of the blade on the workpiece. Having used this facility, I couldn't do without it.
Hi yes you’re right, when I made the video originally it was quite a lot more expensive, I had a comment in the description about it at the time because it was the only one available on Amazon. Then the 773 came back on Amazon so I changed the wording in the description 🙄 I’ll put a mention on there again now, thanks and glad you find it useful.
hi.One question please. Which dust extraction is better. Dewalt or Metabo ? I 'm close to Dewalt due to saving space
@quebraho Hi, to be honest, I use a standard wet and dry vacuum cleaner from Wickes, a UK store. It’s on this link here www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Wet+Dry-Vacuum-with-Blower-20L---1250W/p/215735
I got a proper filter for it on Amazon instead of the bag it comes with. It’s not a full dust extractor though
Hi what’s the diameter of the plastic white elbow that yr vacuum is pushed into is it a waste pipe elbow ??
@@danielbrooks8520 Hi Daniel, it’s a 32mm push fit and it just about fits my Wickes wet vac perfectly. I glued it on with hot melt but it needs redoing with araldite or something
@@oldmanwith thanks for that
@@oldmanwith worked a treat used a straight coupling with a rubber washer from a sink waste holds tight on there great idea of yours.
Quite late to the party, but what is the 48deg setting for on the bevel?
Hi Steve, I don’t guarantee I’m correct but I believe it’s so you can cut just a bit tighter than two halves of a 90 degree. I guess the reasoning behind this is the builders don’t always build walls or install door frames etc dead square. So if your angle for your skirting or baseboard is tighter than 90 you can still cut to suit. No such thing as late in this by the way 👍
Great video - no bullshit. thank you
How do you get a greater angle than 45 on the bevel cut ?
I’m trying to get a video done on this, couple of days with any luck
I’ve just uploaded a video discussing sharp angle cuts generally. In honesty it’s probably not the answer you’re looking for but maybe it’ll help. Thanks for commenting 😊 ruclips.net/video/xTLNN2nXtsw/видео.htmlsi=9fywd_wNOxqH_v3C
Thanks, enjoyed watching it
Thanks Akram
Hi sir, can you help me, how to change the blade.
Hi, apologies for the delayed reply, I’ll try and take a look tomorrow
thanks
Glad it was useful
Thx for taking the time to do the video, I’ve just bought one and now feel ready to start using it. 👍
Thanks for the feedback Andrew. Couple of tips: Always clamp your work because if you’re angle cutting it WILL move otherwise. When you’ve finished a cut, let the blade stop spinning before you release it back up out of the work. Good luck and hope you get on well with it
@@oldmanwith Thank you so much for the reply, I had been doing the opposite of what you’ve just mentioned and the angle was slightly out, I’ll try what you’ve mentioned and hopefully improve a bit. But all said I am really happy with it, it’s a lot better than my old one.
@@oldmanwith hi there I see u use a dust vacuum could u tell me what size white elbow u using as an adapter to come from the saw to vax nozzle looks like a waste elbow ?? Thanks and great review
Wickes wet and dry vac (UK) www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Wet+Dry-Vacuum-with-Blower-20L---1250W/p/215735
Screwfix 32mm push fit elbow www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-knuckle-bend-white-90-32mm/15540?tc=SB8&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAiAxeX_BRASEiwAc1QdkY83TgaaACg_0jmT2YAK-dufpqvcJs5yr8W0rYM-9G61-o7it3VT7BoCzjwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Hi There
A Great video!
I heard that you used the saw for composite decking I am thinking of buying same one for my composite decking project.
is it better to do the chop or sliding cut to cut composite decking?
also does the blade leave a clean cut
thanks danny
Hi Danny, thanks for watching and your comments! If you're going to use similar decking then you won't have an option on the cut. The saw doesn't lift high enough to stand the boards upright so you'll only be able to cut them flat. In terms of the cut quality, I'd used the composite lumber to build the base and it killed the blade. I should have replaced it or had it sharpened before I cut the boards. That said, all I got was a bit of a ragged edge which I trimmed off with a deburring tool like this: amzn.to/2XoxZX7
Sandpaper or a file would more than likely work just as well. If I get 10 minutes this afternoon I'll do a quick video on what I mean.
Hi I was going to cut the deck boards laying flat not standing up will this make a difference
@@oldmanwith Also thank you forgetting back to me
@@oldmanwith Hi I was thinking about using this composite blade made by D Walt would this fit the mitre saw??
www.amazon.co.uk/DEWALT-DWA31740-Composite-Decking-Blade/dp/B01GLYT95A
Ah I get you now I think. So, assuming your boards are 100mm or more in width, you’ll have to use the slide and chop function together. Really depends on board width. You’ll have to have them flat, you have no other choice. I’m just editing up a quick video that might give a bit more info for you, should be up tonight or early tomorrow