Now That's What I Call a First Ascent - EP4 - Century Crack 5.14b Pete Whittaker & Tom Randall
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
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Wide Boyz:
The world of offwidth crack climbing is a strange sub-culture rumoured to be dominated by knuckle-dragging, bar-brawling dirt-bags! The climbing is tough, painful and bloody. Two climbers from England, Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall, set out to explore this world and climb the world’s hardest offwidths. They complete a brutal two-year training regime, mostly spent hanging upside down in a suburban Sheffield basement, before embarking on a tour of the USA. The tour culminates in the first ascent of the ultimate offwidth test piece, Century Crack, the world’s hardest offwidth.
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LOVE FROM
Paul Diffley
Hot Aches Productions
Scotland
Sometimes I forget that these guys are also world class climbers. Not because their accomplishments are forgettable, but because they don’t foist them onto us in a self-important way. These guys don’t take themselves too seriously, and care more about the spirt they love gaining recognition than themselves. It makes me all the more impressed.
They just feel like the kinda people I’ve bumped into bumming around in the car park in Sheffield on a Saturday morning waiting for the climbing works to open
the first time i saw pete (in one of magnus midtbø's videos) i thought he was just some random, kind of good climber. after watching the wideboyz movie i was so surprised to see that they are some of the best trad blimbers in the world.
my favourite thing about this is when all the Americans said it didn’t count because they used pre placed protection they just went and re did it lol
Really, I hated it. Tom seemed so pissed off and really wasn't having a good time on the second climb. Also, the person who complained the most was Steve Bartlett, and he's British.
Then they had to do it all again! Bless them. Incredible climbing
To get the gear?
@Michael Feneley originally they did it with placed gear. The old school guys said it wasn't legit because they didn't take a rack with them and place on the assent. So they went back and did it again that way!
@Dale1712 oh cool, did not know that!
The point at which they had to switch from being upside-down to vertical would've been interesting to see. The first bloke looked like he was really struggling with his foot way above his head. And then all of a sudden it cuts to him climbing vertically up the crack. Odd choice to cut that bit out. Great vid otherwise. Appreciated the emotion.
Yeahhhhh…
@@oliverjones7006 Sorry to necro a necro, but in the full doc you can see all he has to do is after firmly placing his hands is just release his feet back down. They include footage Pete making this maneuver and it's pretty simple compared to everything else. ruclips.net/video/IDElVaVRJco/видео.html
Then later Tom does it again this time carrying his own anchors instead of preplaced gear ruclips.net/video/IDElVaVRJco/видео.html
I don't even climb, but that was a interesting little video. Those dudes are so freaking strong.
I found that to focus on performance and not the goal is really a great advice when trying to send a difficult project. It helped me this week, I really struggled with stress and pressure to send, then recalled of this video and it put me back in the present. Then I climbed it much more effortlessly then ever before, it was so cool.
Yikes at 2:46 when he’s trying to get his foot to lock. So much energy already expended and then trying to get that foot positioned. Serious kudos.
Whoever edited this video must not be a climber because they skipped over some of the best parts imo
Jennifer Casper if you wanna see it proper go watch “wide boyz” on amazon prime. They cut a lot of this footage because they end up going back to do it “proper” on lead, placing all the gear. That’s the real ascent. Highly recommend you watch it, you get to see the transition from overhang to vertical
Frick!!!
Now THAT’S a full-body workout!
Fantastic video
@5.00 "It's a boy!"
I laugh every time i watch this and read your comment.
Just imagine at the end you still need to retrieve all the gear
I know Tom is claiming this is a climb, but in reality this just video of him being born from the womb.
wow tom fantatic work and mental control
Okay, after watching 4 videos back to back I sorta have to sub you, keep up the good work :).
Unbeliweveable achievement guys! That was SO impressive and terrifying! I love tour videos! 💙💙💙
chills
England!! It's where legends are born.
Amazing guys, Great techniques, Thanks
Wild. Just wild.
so amazing. good job guys
Awesome fellas.
I'm exhausted from even watching this climb...
My main questions is how did they get the gear up there it looks like it was up there already
vaya "peazo" de grieta... especial para todos los que tienen hernia discal de la 5ª...
Great video and story!
just SO impressive.
That's insane
I feel like your head would be throbbing after hanging like this.
How do you get all your cams back? @wideboys
How did you guys get your hooks out afterwards?
The same way they got them in?
hi guys! amazing video, can you sare the sounds who starts at 1mn? many thanks
How does one get all the gear back on such a route ?
This clears so much up!
That dude is literally stuck in a rock and a hard place
Fuckin siiiicckkkkk
Anyone know that song?
Craig Luebben must be rolling over in his grave, and smiling. Strong work lads.
What is the title of the song that starts at 1:03?
I was looking for this too! Soundhound didnt work unfortunately. Sounds a bit like Chimeras by Tim Hecker though if youre looking for something similar
reminds me of oval. I was trying to find the song out as well. It's probably in the credits in the full video version. ruclips.net/video/mQA9imIqtos/видео.html
Gosh. This story and music make one of my favourite climbing films. I will buy and watch the full version when I have the spare cash.
not stalking you - just came to rewatch after our conversation haha!
And thought the same thing about the great soundtrack
Arthropod - dask. I think.
Was it ever repeated??
Yes, in 2018 by a guy named Danny Parker. That’s it in 10 years. Pretty crazy.
who, where'd he hide all that gear?
I bet our American cousins are crying a bit, too.
wide pony
8:19 wasn't that a pinkpoint though?
technically yes but pinkpoint isnt really used nowadays anymore so those get counted into the redpoint section
People said that it didn’t count since the gear was pre-placed, so they came back and did it again placing gear as they went.
🧡~ 👋🏻🎱👄🎱🤚🏻 gj! :)
preplaced gear? why’d they call it a redpoint rather than a pinkpoint
The attempt in the video is a pinpoint, the redpoint ascent is in the full wide boyz movie
just why?
"Because it's there"
Same reason guys play with their willies.
Because
So... they both pink-pointed it in a few days??
Would have been nice to see the real first ascent rather than their initial pinkpoint sends.
It’s on reelrock and amazon.
Look at all the material splintering off every step of the way of that climb. A hundred more people do this, and that Rockface will be disfigured. A thousand do it, and it ain't gonna be recognizeable as the same crack at all.