Nice! Just started watching your older k989 videos. It's nice to know that alternative parts from kyosho can be used. Thank you for the content you post. Very informative
@@johnmachter40 It's the mod to make rear wheels spin faster than the front and force the car to hold counter steer (opposite lock) when drifting. Here's the video explanation of it. ruclips.net/video/N2D1rALTQPY/видео.html
Have been playing with servos at a larger scale as of late and found the real issues with centering are when moving a large load and when there is bind or resistance. analog vs ditigal appears to play a bit of a role here. while some servos looked good on the bench, when installed in a car and placed on carpet (adding bind) they would get close but not fully center. seems its a bit easier at this scale but something i have been paying more attention to after i noted some servos where not working as well under high speed braking+turning
@@BeaversHobby based off your original servo latency video i went off and bought a proper servo tester and have been amazed at what i have found, i wont put a servo in a car until i have gone off and tested it fully now. so many dont meet specs
@@BlitzWorks Just tried it in my Q7 TC. It pulls really well. Centre is perfect. Not as good as A11CLS but at this price, I'm not complaining. I'm getting another one for my WLtoys.
@@BeaversHobby Nice to hear, i have been wondering during this conversation if i need to establish a testing methodology for better comparison. the one thing i noticed with the new tester is peak current draw which has lead me to believe that with one or two of my servos adding a capacitor may improve performance it does make latency testing much easier as it can go from nothing to full lock in a single step. i should really look at recording those videos
@@BlitzWorks Now that I think about it, if you want to see how fast it can do and eliminate the human error then you can use Arduino to command it. just write the pulse you want and it'll output that without delay.
I haven't found a metal die cast that fits on the car in my area yet but it is the same as using plastic model as a body. First you make 2 plates to put a magnet on between the body posts, one for the front and another on for the back. Then stick some magnets on the body, line them up with the magnets on the car and that's it.
It's on the way. There will be build video and review as usual. ps. At first I didn't think I'd buy it because I was saving up for a GL car but then I decided, yep, I should have one.
@@BeaversHobby Not sure if this is useful, but there is a YT called Sunrise Garage, and they have a video about this turning radius mod for a 1/28 scale, it's available via this website called CRD R/C. I'll attach links below for both CRD: www.tokopedia.com/crd Sunrise Garage video: ruclips.net/video/oss-wnJNCBA/видео.html
A set of too rechargeable AAA is good. Something like Eneloop or IKEA Ladda are easy to find and performance is good. If you want use Lipo, 1S works best with the original board. Capacity is whatever fits the tray.
Hi Beaver, is this still a good option (when back in stock) or is there now something newer/better that you've found? **edit** just found the wltoys upgraded 5g version..
Yes, the spring is still needed. It's a part of servo saver that will bounce the horn when there's a collision. Although it's not entirely necessary with metal gear servo but having a bit of protection is still better for touring car.
Hey beaver can you help me with my servo? I bought the servo and I was thinkering my rc, suddenly my receiver's steering is reversed, like when I turn the wheel to the left, it goes right and vice versa. I tested other servos but still the same so I think the receiver is the problem, can you give some advice to fix?
That is the setup on the transmitter. You can go into the menu and find "REV" or "Reverse channel" select channel 1 then switch it off (or on, anyway, it's the opposite of what you have now).
@@sontoshi25 Do you remember what did you do exactly to have this effect? It's unusual for the servo to suddenly have reverse direction when there's no setting to do. Now you either have to change the servo and find one that works or open up the transmitter and swap 2 wires from the steering potentiometer. You'll have to experiment which 2 gives you the correct steering.
@@BeaversHobby I installed the aluminum parts and followed your steps on grinding some to fit and when I put everything back together, the steering suddenly became reversed. I bought another servo because I thought that was the issue, but lo and behold it's not. I think the transmitter is the problem or the esc? I guess i'll have to open up the transmitter and do what you said. Do you have any guide how to open up the transmitter for the 284161? (Really appreciate you taking the time and helping man)
@@sontoshi25 It's strange that the transmitter suddenly reverse the channel by itself. Unfortunately I don't have a tutorial to open up the transmitter bit it's just a few screws so you can slowly remove them and keep track of where they were. If you have the old version with red handle + flame then there might be some screws hidden behind the reflective sticker on the base.
Not more than other servos. I do have slow shake in my HGD1 RWD drift if I crank up the gain too high. The car still drifts file but it might look strange from the outside but other than that, no, it's not shaking violently.
@@BeaversHobby thank you beaver, maybe i will try this servo. Because now i use wltoys 5g servo metal gear but if i use gain more than 40 its shacking violently
@@deadlockggwp I don't think this would be any different than WLtoys metal gear though, they look exactly the same and probably from the same manufacture. Which car are you using it with? Check the steering for slop and binding first, it might help.
Um... I guess you meant servo? Here's the link for this exact one. bit.ly/2PfUtWJ Here's another one. It's the same just with a different badge. bit.ly/3k0CrWb
@@IYNGAME Oh, sorry. In that case you can just buy a standard diff from Mini-Q or Min-Z and then glue the inside to lock it. Mini-Z standard diff bit.ly/2M9hSrv Mini-Q ball diff bit.ly/2Wm6puF
@@goingcrazy00 Spline is where you put the servo horn in. Servo saver is mechanism that has spring with a bit of give so when you crash the impact to servo mechanism will be lessen, hence the name.
hai beaver..saya baru membeli esc brushed 20a..baru pertama di pakai sudah terbakar..apa penyebabnya?..saya menggunakan motor dan baterai stock k989..receiver r6fg
There are many ways things could have gone wrong, defective ESC, wrong wiring like put battery in to motor, plugged the receiver in the wrong way, etc. If your receiver survived then just get a new ESC to try out.
saya mencoba memakai receiver stock wltoys..lalu motor jadi sangat panas dan baterai cepat sekali habis..saya merubah posisi motor jadi di tengah dan menggunakan pinion yang besar untuk motornya..apakah itu penyebabnya?
Nice! Just started watching your older k989 videos. It's nice to know that alternative parts from kyosho can be used. Thank you for the content you post. Very informative
Your tests are very useful, thank you Beaver 👍👍👍
I miss this type of videos
Great mini-q servo! I wish they would still produce the gears for cs-mod. 😞
Yes, such a shame they dropped it.
@@BeaversHobbywhat's the cs mod?
@@johnmachter40 It's the mod to make rear wheels spin faster than the front and force the car to hold counter steer (opposite lock) when drifting. Here's the video explanation of it. ruclips.net/video/N2D1rALTQPY/видео.html
I have a SCX24 with a bad 3 wire servo! I have a HBX that don't work but it has rite size servo but 5 wire can it be used in SCX
Yes, you can try swapping the board and see. I don't know what servo SCX24 uses but you should be able to find a similar size with metal gear.
Have been playing with servos at a larger scale as of late and found the real issues with centering are when moving a large load and when there is bind or resistance. analog vs ditigal appears to play a bit of a role here. while some servos looked good on the bench, when installed in a car and placed on carpet (adding bind) they would get close but not fully center. seems its a bit easier at this scale but something i have been paying more attention to after i noted some servos where not working as well under high speed braking+turning
It's exactly centre in drift car but that doesn't mean much since there's low resistance. I'll try to put it in my TC soon.
@@BeaversHobby based off your original servo latency video i went off and bought a proper servo tester and have been amazed at what i have found, i wont put a servo in a car until i have gone off and tested it fully now. so many dont meet specs
@@BlitzWorks Just tried it in my Q7 TC. It pulls really well. Centre is perfect. Not as good as A11CLS but at this price, I'm not complaining. I'm getting another one for my WLtoys.
@@BeaversHobby Nice to hear, i have been wondering during this conversation if i need to establish a testing methodology for better comparison. the one thing i noticed with the new tester is peak current draw which has lead me to believe that with one or two of my servos adding a capacitor may improve performance
it does make latency testing much easier as it can go from nothing to full lock in a single step. i should really look at recording those videos
@@BlitzWorks Now that I think about it, if you want to see how fast it can do and eliminate the human error then you can use Arduino to command it. just write the pulse you want and it'll output that without delay.
Great servo for my future upgrade, btw can u show us how to put on metal die cast cover on K989 body? Thank.
I haven't found a metal die cast that fits on the car in my area yet but it is the same as using plastic model as a body. First you make 2 plates to put a magnet on between the body posts, one for the front and another on for the back. Then stick some magnets on the body, line them up with the magnets on the car and that's it.
Have you ever tried the HGD1 RWD kit from Banggood? Would like to see a video on it
It's on the way. There will be build video and review as usual.
ps. At first I didn't think I'd buy it because I was saving up for a GL car but then I decided, yep, I should have one.
@@BeaversHobby Awesome, I look forward to see this, always enjoy your videos!
@@BeaversHobby Not sure if this is useful, but there is a YT called Sunrise Garage, and they have a video about this turning radius mod for a 1/28 scale, it's available via this website called CRD R/C. I'll attach links below for both
CRD: www.tokopedia.com/crd
Sunrise Garage video: ruclips.net/video/oss-wnJNCBA/видео.html
What AAA batteries do you recommend for the miniq? Should I run a lipo? Buy a rechargeable battery pack?
A set of too rechargeable AAA is good. Something like Eneloop or IKEA Ladda are easy to find and performance is good.
If you want use Lipo, 1S works best with the original board. Capacity is whatever fits the tray.
Hi Beaver, is this still a good option (when back in stock) or is there now something newer/better that you've found? **edit** just found the wltoys upgraded 5g version..
Yes, it's still good and it's practically the same as WLtoys metal gear version so pick whichever you can get the cheapest.
sir do these metal servo still need springs?
did you try using digital servo?
Yes, the spring is still needed. It's a part of servo saver that will bounce the horn when there's a collision. Although it's not entirely necessary with metal gear servo but having a bit of protection is still better for touring car.
Hey beaver can you help me with my servo? I bought the servo and I was thinkering my rc, suddenly my receiver's steering is reversed, like when I turn the wheel to the left, it goes right and vice versa. I tested other servos but still the same so I think the receiver is the problem, can you give some advice to fix?
That is the setup on the transmitter. You can go into the menu and find "REV" or "Reverse channel" select channel 1 then switch it off (or on, anyway, it's the opposite of what you have now).
@@BeaversHobby my rc is the wltoys 284161, it doesn't have switches besides throttle trim and steering trim.
@@sontoshi25 Do you remember what did you do exactly to have this effect? It's unusual for the servo to suddenly have reverse direction when there's no setting to do. Now you either have to change the servo and find one that works or open up the transmitter and swap 2 wires from the steering potentiometer. You'll have to experiment which 2 gives you the correct steering.
@@BeaversHobby I installed the aluminum parts and followed your steps on grinding some to fit and when I put everything back together, the steering suddenly became reversed. I bought another servo because I thought that was the issue, but lo and behold it's not. I think the transmitter is the problem or the esc? I guess i'll have to open up the transmitter and do what you said. Do you have any guide how to open up the transmitter for the 284161?
(Really appreciate you taking the time and helping man)
@@sontoshi25 It's strange that the transmitter suddenly reverse the channel by itself. Unfortunately I don't have a tutorial to open up the transmitter bit it's just a few screws so you can slowly remove them and keep track of where they were. If you have the old version with red handle + flame then there might be some screws hidden behind the reflective sticker on the base.
I broke my stock servo on the 530 today haha :( This one is out of stock, which do you suggest?
This one. www.banggood.com/custlink/K3vWOjuf4W
It's the same unit but with a different bag and label.
@@BeaversHobby thanks again, have you noticed there isn't a lot of other information out there aside from yourself?
Beaver if you use gyro on this servo you have shacking on servo?
Not more than other servos. I do have slow shake in my HGD1 RWD drift if I crank up the gain too high. The car still drifts file but it might look strange from the outside but other than that, no, it's not shaking violently.
@@BeaversHobby thank you beaver, maybe i will try this servo. Because now i use wltoys 5g servo metal gear but if i use gain more than 40 its shacking violently
@@deadlockggwp I don't think this would be any different than WLtoys metal gear though, they look exactly the same and probably from the same manufacture. Which car are you using it with? Check the steering for slop and binding first, it might help.
Comparing with Gening D561MG whichone is better？
This one has better centering and the unit is shorter. Overall this is better. But you need your own horn because it's not included.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you very match~
My pleasure.
Where i can buy solid for thi car,
Um... I guess you meant servo? Here's the link for this exact one. bit.ly/2PfUtWJ
Here's another one. It's the same just with a different badge. bit.ly/3k0CrWb
@@BeaversHobby no i meant i have buy solid exle for miniq 1 you no place can i buy.
@@IYNGAME Oh, sorry. In that case you can just buy a standard diff from Mini-Q or Min-Z and then glue the inside to lock it.
Mini-Z standard diff bit.ly/2M9hSrv
Mini-Q ball diff bit.ly/2Wm6puF
@@BeaversHobby thankyou
@@IYNGAME My pleasure.
This direct swap into the 989 servo mount?
Yes. Same spline for servo saver too.
@@BeaversHobby what's a spline for a servo saver? Lol
@@goingcrazy00 Spline is where you put the servo horn in. Servo saver is mechanism that has spring with a bit of give so when you crash the impact to servo mechanism will be lessen, hence the name.
@@BeaversHobby thanks again.
would this go well with micro crawlers?
Yes, it will. Check the size of your servo first. This is 5g size. I normally see 9g on micro crawler.
hai beaver..saya baru membeli esc brushed 20a..baru pertama di pakai sudah terbakar..apa penyebabnya?..saya menggunakan motor dan baterai stock k989..receiver r6fg
There are many ways things could have gone wrong, defective ESC, wrong wiring like put battery in to motor, plugged the receiver in the wrong way, etc. If your receiver survived then just get a new ESC to try out.
receiver ku baik baik saja..apakah ada esc yg kuat..
@@anggasetiawan7988 If you don't mind the weight and size, Hobbywing 1625. The other one is Dumbo RC 10A bit.ly/2qPpisf .
saya mencoba memakai receiver stock wltoys..lalu motor jadi sangat panas dan baterai cepat sekali habis..saya merubah posisi motor jadi di tengah dan menggunakan pinion yang besar untuk motornya..apakah itu penyebabnya?
@@anggasetiawan7988 Could be. If the gear mesh is too tight it'll heat up the motor very quickly. ruclips.net/video/bQiR-cfBnvw/видео.html
Is it compatible with atomic DRZ?
Yes, it is.