for the majority of aluminum removal, I use 1/4" cobalt roughing end mill, cheaper and much more forgiving compared to carbide, the one I have milled through about 50lb in aluminum chips and still holding up.
two tip that i will give you is to fill the hollow part of the frame of the mill with sand or epoxy granit ( remember weight of the mashine is your friend when its put in its final place ) and if you can. get your hands on a big thick steel plate and bolt the machine to it ( makes it even less prown to move it self and ones agen wright is your friend. and since you would be bolting them togeather pretty rightly physicks and vibration see's the machine and plate as one thing instead of two seperate things )
@@JohnSL i saw that you had gotten a has it was more in case that you still had the small one hanging around to du like small stuff on btw if you can then i woukd recomend filling the hollow parts of the haas casting with sand ( take the cabels and put them through a tube and then sand round the tune so the cabels can still move freely ) ones agen weight is your friend ( you can never have to much weight in a machine as long that the floor can take it) ( in case you need to ship/move it then its easyer to get the sand out then epoxy and then fill it back up agen when its set down agen ) i have selv worked on a haas vf2 for like 4 years so i know haas pretty well and know that there castings have big hollow parts
I should have mentioned that I did think about filling the frame, but found the Haas before I finished upgrading the Taig. So I never went down that road.
I'm learning similar lessons with my DIY CNC Router. I've found that the "ideal" scenarios shared by so many experts and calculators are typically based off of machines that have much more power or rigidity than my machine. I've found that what might be unacceptable for a Tormach or Haas, keeps my machine running perfectly well, albeit at a much more conservative material removal rate.
Hi, I am thinking of using this 3/4 hp sewing machine motor as a milling machine spindle motor and I would like to know if this motor can mill steel? thanks.
@@JohnSL Yes, your point is correct. I have a wabeco F1410 special frame, but it doesn't have a spindle, it needs an unpowered spindle and drive motor.
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for the majority of aluminum removal, I use 1/4" cobalt roughing end mill, cheaper and much more forgiving compared to carbide, the one I have milled through about 50lb in aluminum chips and still holding up.
two tip that i will give you is to fill the hollow part of the frame of the mill with sand or epoxy granit ( remember weight of the mashine is your friend when its put in its final place ) and if you can. get your hands on a big thick steel plate and bolt the machine to it ( makes it even less prown to move it self and ones agen wright is your friend. and since you would be bolting them togeather pretty rightly physicks and vibration see's the machine and plate as one thing instead of two seperate things )
Thanks. I've since sold that machine and moved up to a Haas OM-2A, which is much more rigid.
@@JohnSL i saw that you had gotten a has
it was more in case that you still had the small one hanging around to du like small stuff on
btw if you can then i woukd recomend filling the hollow parts of the haas casting with sand ( take the cabels and put them through a tube and then sand round the tune so the cabels can still move freely ) ones agen weight is your friend ( you can never have to much weight in a machine as long that the floor can take it) ( in case you need to ship/move it then its easyer to get the sand out then epoxy and then fill it back up agen when its set down agen )
i have selv worked on a haas vf2 for like 4 years so i know haas pretty well and know that there castings have big hollow parts
I should have mentioned that I did think about filling the frame, but found the Haas before I finished upgrading the Taig. So I never went down that road.
I'm learning similar lessons with my DIY CNC Router. I've found that the "ideal" scenarios shared by so many experts and calculators are typically based off of machines that have much more power or rigidity than my machine. I've found that what might be unacceptable for a Tormach or Haas, keeps my machine running perfectly well, albeit at a much more conservative material removal rate.
I like it!
Hi, I am thinking of using this 3/4 hp sewing machine motor as a milling machine spindle motor and I would like to know if this motor can mill steel? thanks.
Of course. The limitation is going to be less DOC and WOC. So milling steel will be slower.
@@JohnSL Thanks for your answer, maybe 1 or 2 hp would be better.
I think you would then run into problems with the frame not being rigid enough. Plus, the loads on the spindle would likely be to much as well.
@@JohnSL Yes, your point is correct. I have a wabeco F1410 special frame, but it doesn't have a spindle, it needs an unpowered spindle and drive motor.