OM System OM-1 - Dynamic Range and Exposure Metering Expert Guide
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- Опубликовано: 22 июл 2024
- OM-System OM-1 Expert Knowledge: Utilize the OM-1’s full dynamic range, master exposure metering and capture all nuances of your subject for professional results.
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Video Content:
0:00 Introduction
0:56 File Format
2:18 Dynamic Range
4:10 Exposure Metering
9:51 High Res Shot
10:38 Closing Remarks
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Written Article & Pocket Card Download: www.thomaseisl.photography/te...
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So well explained, thank you
Thank you very much!
Very good explanation! Thanks a lot!
Thanks Björn!
Terrific, really helpful, thank you.
Thank you very much Catherine!
Excellent. Again.
Thank you very much!
Great explanation. Thanks 😊
Great to hear - thank you very much!
ThanksThomas, again such practical advice and the bonus guide saves me writing scratchy notes instead!
Many thanks - I'm very happy to hear and I'm grateful for your generous support!
Another amazing video. Thanks, Thomas. Jose, from Puerto Rico. With the OM-1, I've set the dynamic range settings to around 253 to avoid clipping. But I've also learned to trust the histogram, which will let you know if you're in the danger zone. I've always shot in raw since I'm an amateur, and I can understand that sports photographers might need JPGs to send to editors quickly. In my case I like to take my time. But I'm eager to see the other videos you'll put here in the future.
Hey Jose! Thank you very much for the comment!
When shooting with the OM-1, there is enough headroom even when setting the Histogram to 0 and 255. In my upcoming video, I will talk exactly about that - hope you will like that as well.
Thank you very much for being a "returning viewer" and hope to see you next time!
Really interesting. i will try i am sure it will improve my exhibits. These videos and tech tips are really very helpful for you to improve. thank you
Awesome, glad to read that!
Thanks for the comment Stefano!
Very informative and important stuff for OM-1 users!
Thank you very much Peter! It is an honor to see you visiting my channel, I´ve watched your videos on the OM-1 as well, very educational and helpful. Hear from you soon 😀
Great job! I am an OM user from China. Your video helps me have a better command of my camera. Thx a lot！
Thank you very much! Welcome to the channel, I'm glad that you found the video helpful.
Best wishes to China!
Thanks for the reference sheet Thomas. I found the video extremely interesting. I like the technical approach of these videos It’s then up to us how we use that information.
Personally, I mainly photograph birds, so a lot of the preparatory steps won’t always be possible, but keeping the dynamic range you stated in mind will be very helpful. p.s. I was going to post this comment on your blog after I dl’d the pdf but I thought it would be of more value to you here
Thank you Stephen!
Yes, for your photography, this method has limited usefulness. Maybe the video about Image Noise Performance of the OM-1 has more relevant tips for you.
Thanks for the kind words and for downloading the reference sheet!
I love your videos. Very informative on the subject and nicely to the point.
You are covering only iso 200 in this video but we all know sometimes you have to crank up the ISO anyway. Could you add a video about how the dynamic range changes then and how we can best approach preserving it in those cases?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the comment and the great suggestion! I've added it to the list - maybe I'll test the different ADC stages separately!
Just a thing - the JPG engine of the OM and of OM Workspace seems to be optimized for exposing middle grey always at 0, then the shadows at -3 and the highlights at +2.3, no matter which sensitivity. So when I shoot higher ISO numbers, I stick to that! Cheers and thanks again for the great input!
Super interesting.... but you forgot to investigate the LiveND mode. It is amazing the extra headroom that you get in the shadows (bigger than HDR and HRes)
Yes - you are absolutely correct! LiveND will be a separate in-depth video. It is such a great feature.
Thanks for the comment and pointing that out! Much appreciated!
Love your video! Would love to see you talk more about the D800. :)
Will do! Please stay tuned, there will be DSLR content coming, even though I have to focus on the OM-1 for the next videos. Thanks for the kind words!
Unfortunately I don’t have an Om1 but the em1 mk iii. I like your methodological approach. Will still give this try based on the dynamic range of the mk iii
Hey Karl - thanks for your kind words!
The dynamic range on your E-M1III is a bit lower, but the method still works. Just don't push anything to the extremes to take that into account. I don't have an E-M1III at the moment, so I cannot provide the exact numbers, unfortunately.
very good video, thank you, consider also LiveND function, which extends dynamic range a lot, but you must be aware not to clip highlights
Thanks for the tip, just scheduled it for a future video. Also, thanks for your kind words, much appreciated!
Here's an idea for you: do a video on HDR in the OM-1. I've just been playing around with various methods for HDR, and they produce very different results. So-called Averaging HDR, where you take a bunch of identical exposures, stack them, then average them, greatly reduces noise, but doesn't expand the high fidelity range of the sensor, so you can end up with noise-free, but very oddly colored, shadows. Somewhat true, too, for three-exposure traditional HDR processed in post by blending the images. In my experiment today, shooting out the window of my dark office, I got the best results with five-exposure HDR. Last night, shooting a distant hillside with houses on it, I got artifacts around the lights with the three-shot HDR. Last night, too, shooting the full moon rising above a hillside, I got a moon with a pronounced orange rim while using the in-camera (as opposed to the post-processing) HDR mode. So if you need a high dynamic range, you have to choose your tool carefully.
Barry, thank you very much for the great suggestion and sharing your experiences!
I totally agree - this is a very important topic. That's why my next two videos will talk exactly about that: dynamic range in general and HDR with the OM-1 in particular!
Hope you will like them, I think they should cover the issues you've mentioned.
LiveND for OM-1 and Em13, 1x can also dramatically increase dynamic range when situation allows. It's averaging frames, which increases signal to noise ratio. There is a special section in photonstophotos about dynamic range in HiRes and LiveND for Olympus cameras. LiveND on OM-1 can achieve full 12 stops of photographic dynamic range, same caliber as the Hasselblad (potentially only limited by 12-bit raw for Olympus cameras?).
Thanks for bringing this up, take a look: ruclips.net/video/725g11N0e-o/видео.htmlsi=QntJrQf8x0YqAC8x
Very useful again! It's really helpful to know where the high fidelity range is; I'd never seen anything specific on it. I particularly like your walk-through of the studio scene, using spot metering. I was aware the live histogram is a JPEG thing, and not necessarily reflective of the raw exposure, and would be interested in further info on that. Perhaps a future video? Also-and perhaps you also have a video already on it-I am curious about the HDR features of the camera. I've never had much luck with them myself, but figure it's probably from ignorance on my part. Finally, your wearing a coat and tie, while irrelevant to the content of your videos, is a really cool touch.
My next video will cover exposure preview and the Live View Histogram and how to set everything up to better match the 12-bit RAW file - scheduled for Friday.
Regarding HDR - I'm also working on a separate video to cover this function in detail. The implementation is a bit confusing, as you've implied - so it is absolutely worth talking about it
Thank you very much for your kind words, I very much appreciate that- and yes, I'm a fan of classic menswear 😅
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Exposure preview and live view histogram will be very good topics. I was just thinking about that today as I walked around with my camera and contemplated how overexposed things look in my viewfinder when the histogram (correctly) says the exposure is good. It would be nice to get the two more in alignment.
Awesome, can't wait to get your feedback on the new video as soon as it is out!
Hello
About the shadow recover I do sometimes use the extended ISO ranger like 64 or 100 ISO in order to have less noise and colo shift into the shadows for my landscapes pictures. ( OM-D E-M1 mark III )
If I do understand well 64 and 100 ISO are internaly over exposed pictures that are processed to be lowered but it also limits the high lights recover due to the over expose process.
Thank you for sharing that - I have to admit that off the top of my head, I have no valid data on the E-M1III regaring the low ISO extension settings, so I very much appreciate your input!
The OM-1, however, does produce (very slightly) more noise at the lower extension settings and I assume it has to do with the ADC architecture of the camera. It can also be found on the charts over at photonstophotos. That is why I recommend ISO 200 with this camera whenever possible.
Thanks again for your contribution!
Good to know Gossen still makes light metres
Yes!
Very interesting video, Thomas ! Thank you !
What is your opinion about activating "live shadow&highlight clipping" in the camera ? (to show in live-view the burned highlights with red and underexposed shadow with blue).
I activated this option on previous Olympus camera (E-M1 MK II). I ussually increased the exposure until the highlights started to clipping in the live-view.
For me it was a very good instrument to get the best DR from a scene.
Thank you very much Toni!
The next video is about Live Clipping, Live View Histogram and how to configure it for previewing the RAW file.
What I describe in this video is, however, far more precise than what the clipping warning does, as the latter has some pitfalls (limited simulation range when using spot meter and M mode in certain scenarios and more).
Please stay tuned, the video next week will cover everything in detail :-)
Thank you, Thomas ! :)
Could you make a video on the best way to clone one OM-1 to a second OM-1 so that I can keep both of my cameras in “sync”? Right now I am using OM Workspace to save the settings on one camera, then load those settings on the second camera. But I’m not sure how to do this with the O.I. Share app and if it would work better or worse.
Great suggestion - it is on my list!
Quick answer in advance: I am also using OM Workspace to do that, I will check how the workflow with O.I. Share is, did not try that yet to be honest!
Thanks Larry!
super videos, peter, whats about live histogram and ettr shoting with om-1?
The next two videos will cover exactly that! Thanks for the kind comment!
HoThomas, very intersting and understandable. The method you introduced is very accurate, but takes a lot of time. An alternative methode I am shooting mostly in A mode. I have set ON the highlight and shadow peaking and metering of the whole sensor. So, when I am shooting I also the the exposure correction so, that the clipping did appear, or is only on little part in the picture which is not necessary to have informations. What do you say to this method?
Yes, that works as well.
The downside is - compared to the spot metering method - that the exposure always has to be adjusted in post to get the correct brightness values.
Very technical. A side by side comparison of HDR and High Res mode for Dynamic Range comparison would have been useful. Also, would have liked more examples with real shots to drive home the point. Very educating nevertheless!
Thank you for the feedback!
In one of my upcoming videos, I will show how to apply this theoretical knowledge in practice (especially the exposure pocket card).
Thanks for the comment, very much appreciated!
Thank you for another very interesting video. Regarding HDR RAW files, what is your source for the +1EV claim? To my knowledge the RAW file is a standard one, but the JPG benefits from the HDR compositing. I would also mention LiveND as a great way of increasing DR in the sadows.
Yes, that is what I thought as well - however, the OM-1 does actually compose an HDR RAW file. The +1 EV is based on my own testing - give it a try, it is pretty neat and easy to validate yourself.
Thanks for the suggestion with LiveND - I have that planned for a separate video as there are more aspects of this function I'd like to cover.
Thank you for watching and your comment, great to have a "regular" around!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Thanks for the reply, I will definitely test the HDR RAW output next time I have the opportunity. Looking forward to the next video!
Thank you so much!
If you want to test the additional headroom, you can shoot a white wall at +4 EV in Standard and then HDR1. Bring both raw files down -4 EV in post, the difference should be quite significant.
Thanks again for the comments!
Hello. Wonderful and very straight to the point explanations. Graphics are superb. I have a curiosity, what is the source of information for this scale this EV values Scale (high fidelity) and up and down this values??
Thank you for asking!
The source is actually me - I always test a new camera before using it professionally. Maybe an important note: You can push the OM-1 even further, especially in the shadows. I just have very high personal standards when it comes to IQ / noise.
Thanks for the kind words!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography that’s awesome. I want to be able to do that as well! I just recently owned a LUMIX GX9 and to be able to test its dynamic range so I get to know what to expect! I notice that in general Raw pics comes out of camera a little on the darker side on this camera, but I m really amazed how many information is already there on the dark areas. Impressive. But I would to have my own cheat sheet as for the optimal EV per situation. I might start spot-metering extremes areas to start finding patterns and optimal ranges?? Having said that, what make you determine the optimal area?
When using HDR, do you get the image in sRGB only (like the user manual states), or, since you say RAW output is possible, can you open the file in Adobe RGB colour space? Sorry about the many questions.
No worries! The RAW-file has the full 12-bit color information and can be exported to either Adobe or any other profile that you wish to embed in that file.
Hi Thomas. Good work once again. One question regarding light meter(s) and adding 0.7 when working with the OM-1. So, if I have the lights set up and a light meter reading is f/4...I should set my camera to approximately 3/4 of a stop (0.7) higher than f/4...or, approx. 1/3 (since we can only adjust in full, 0.5, or thirds of a stop) of a stop less than f5/6? Or do I set my camera to f/4 and set lights to give an f/4.7 light meter reading?
Hey there, sorry it took me a while, but here is the answer:
If you want to be super precise (at least with Gossen Meters), I would recommend setting a correction factor of -0.7, that seems to be the absolute perfect match.
However, as you've stated, you can just approximate it. Here is how: If the light meter (no correction factor) reads f/5.6, you have to add 0.7 EV exposure. By that, I mean that you need 0.7 EV more light on the sensor. Therefore, you should open up the aperture by 0.7 EV (or 2/3 stops), which would leave you at f/4.5.
Sorry for the confusion with "adding 0.7 EV", by that I meant that you need 0.7 EV more light on the sensor, not less by stopping down.
Hope that helped - thanks for the kind words and I'm happy to have a "regular" around. Cheers, Thomas
@@ThomasEisl.Photography thanks Thomas.
Hi Thomas, I wonder if you can clear something up for me. At 10:36, you say (paraphrasing) that HDR results in a RAW file with greater dynamic range. Is this something you have measured? Both the OM-1 manual and Tony Phillips's book say that only the resulting JPEG is the result of HDR processing, that the RAW file is merely the centre exposure of the bracket.
I observe that when I set the OM-1 to produce only a RAW file, it produces a RAW plus a JPEG when using HRD1 or HDR2. I don't have a high dynamic range scene to test this out on at the moment.
If indeed only the JPEG contains the HDR information, it would seem like a real waste of camera power! I pushed the image for maximum contrast, and the 8-bit JPEG looks nasty, with lots of posterization, compared to the 12-bit RAW, but I understand that doesn't necessarily say anything about dynamic range.
Do you know for sure what the contents of the RAW file from an HDR shot contains? Thanks! Tschuß!
Hello Jan!
Thanks for this very relevant question - I had exactly the same thoughts as you, but there was a review on fstoppers that also stated HDR raw output. So I tested it myself and based on my results, I'm quite confident in making that statement. I'd recommend a little test - expose a white wall at +4 EV in HDR1 and regular, and then adjust them in post to -4 EV. The difference is quite drastic.
Let me know about your results if you have time.
By the way, the manual is a little bit ambiguous in that regard, as it does not explicitly state that the OM-1 does not produce an HDR RAW file (at least that is the way I've read it).
TBH I would have been as disappointed as you (waste of capabilities) if there was no HDR RAW, as the camera can save a liveND RAW and a highres RAW files.
@@ThomasEisl.Photography You should really show an example of the "quite drastic" difference you're seeing because as far as I can see it doesn't exist at all. I suspect this claim is similar to your last claim about the 3-stage ADC.
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Thanks for your reply. I haven't yet had the opportunity with a high-DR scene.
But I did do a low-DR scene, and displayed the difference between the resulting .JPG and .ORF files. The first line is the .ORF metadata, and the second is the .JPG metadata:
< Stacked Image : No
---
> Stacked Image : HDR2
219,221c222,224
Thanks!
Thank you very much for the support!
Thanks for the informative video. Unable to download reference card.
It should work - go to the link, scroll down and either click the link or right click to download it! Let me know if it worked!
Thanks for the kind words!
A very interesting and informative video, thank you Thomas. I am a nature photographer and I am wondering if I am missing something in the settings I use but I cannot really foresee any problems myself. I suspect I am similar to many other photographers in that I use Evaluative metering, i.e. the whole scene and I use Auto ISO and I simply adjust the exposure to the right until I get clipping then I turn it left by 1/3 stop - so that clipping is not visible. I appreciate this would not be so accurate as your method demonstrated but having said that your method is not suited to fast action photography. I would welcome any views or observations you may have on this topic.
Thanks for the comment, Jonathan!
Indeed, this method is not suited for action photography, but for your nature photography, it would make a lot of sense, if you want to get the very best results possible with a maximum amount of control.
However, your method (+ setting ISO at 200) will lead to excellent results as well!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography ISO 200....hmm if only! Opportunities for that are relatively few. A lot of nature photography requires 1/2500sec or faster to ensure sharp images.
💎💎💎
Many thanks!
If landscape has no big dynamic differences is there .jpg not enough? ( i don t like to post process a lot)
Absolutely, if you do not intend on processing the JPG it is perfectly fine. The 12 bit are only needed of you want to "push" the file around in post production. Shooting a RAW as a backup is something I would do nonetheless, just in case.
I totally agree with @Larry Fasnacht. This is great theoretical video for generaly understanding dynamic range in OM1 but I missing more practical application of that knowledge too, not only on static subject as here in video. And of corse what about correlation of that with ETTR? Beside this I like your videos and way of teaching.
First, thanks very much for the feedback!
The good news is that this video is the first of three - this one is covering the theory, the second one will cover exposure preview & histogram and the third one will show how both are applied in a practical shooting scenario.
Maybe to clarifiy things - what I mention in this video is essentially ETTR and digital Ansel Adams on steroids: by knowing the high fidelity dynamic range of the OM-1, you can basically meter for a subject and place all the metered tonal values in this range (@ ISO 200 +-3 EV). By doing so, you will make sure that you record the subject with the highest possible image quality.
So the practical application of this is mostly when you are trying to take a photograph of anything with high dynamic range and you do not want to clip anything. Also, when you have a very low contrast subject, you can make sure that all the values are in the +-3 EV range.
It is very specific, as I am also often hired for reproduction photography - faithful reproduction is obviously very important, and the best way to ensure that is to utilize the spot meter while being cognizant of the available DR.
How does this knowledge not help with practical application? Now I know to shoot within -3 ~ +3 EV, and to be extra cautious of exceeding +3 EV in high res mode. This information impacts the way I shoot.
On a separate note, are the high res results from handheld or tripod high res mode? I noticed the handheld high res mode has a much higher ISO limit, and it captures twice as many photos.
@MonokuroBooHokKan
I'm referring to Tripod High Res Mode - it might be that HHHR delivers even better results. I should test that in the future, thanks for the input!
Also, thanks for the kind comment - I'm glad that you found the video useful.
Cheers!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with the community!
Hi great video, I like the lack of padding and good info. Can I ask how did you determine the dynamic range in the first place as this is of course very critical to the data you provide? Thanks so much Mark
Great to read! I determined the practical DR (subjective, your tolerance might be different than mine) with a series of controlled exposure tests of gray cards under controlled lighting situations. The results where then applied and verified in practice! Hope this helped and thanks for asking!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography that’s great, I was going to do the same thing using a step wedge on a light box over the different iso values to see how in reading iso damages the DR. Thanks again
Mark
Awesome! Apart from these practical results you may also be aware of photonstophotos - great resource for sensor data
@@ThomasEisl.Photography
Hi Thomas
Prompted by your very interesting video I spent a happy few hours looking at the practical dynamic range of the om-1 sensor using a transmissive step wedge and rawdigger. I tried all iso's from 200-3200 and with and without dxo pureraw processing to clean up the results. The data are really interesting. I have them as a jpeg graph which if you let me have your email I'll happily send you. In summary at 200iso raw I agree absolutely with your +3 to -3.5 stop range. Using 3200 raw its +3 to 0 iso range for a snr of 20 (ie a good starting point for aceptable image quality) but three interesting things is that dxo pure raw processing improves this (and subjectively the detail in an actual image too) to +3--5 at least at 200 iso and makes the 3200 iso data look very nearly as good as the 200iso raw data with a range of +3 to -3.5-4 for snr above 20. A resolution chart image does suggest the 200iso raw and the 3200 iso dxo processed dng raw have very similar fine detail, lack of colour and luminance noise. In summary, for me, I would say that using dxo pureraw is a good idea even at 200 iso and it massively improves the usable DR at higher iso values. The sounds a bit like a sales pitch for dxo but I'm an orthodontist not a dxo employee (!) and I must say I'm very surprised at how good it is.
sorry for the long post but hope its interesting.
Hey Mark! Sorry it took me so long to get back to you - thank you so much for sharing the graph via mail, absolutely outstanding results!
Kudos to you for testing that out and thank you so much for sharing this - you probably should be a DxO ambassador, because these results are very promising - that is indeed very interesting.
Thank you (!) for the long post, I will sure try this out!
What metering mode would you use if shooting wildlife that are backlit, say on a safari? Will spot metering the animal not blow out the background?
This is a tough one - if you want to make sure that both the animal and the background will be covered by the OM-1's DR, you have to take a few spot meter readings in M mode, just like I did in the test scene. Then, you should shoot with the resulting settings.
However, if you want to focus on getting the (presumably moving) wildlife with a fast enough shutter speed, you might have to make some compromises. It really depends on how contrasty the situation is. When in doubt, I would always expose the main subject (animal) correctly and just live with the blown out background. It is ok to have white parts in the photograph, not everything has to have an HDR look.
Thanks for the interesting question!
Thanks for your response, I will certainly try the metering you demonstrated when next I am photographing a static subject or landscape. Another problem I have with metering is when shooting an animal with the 2 extremes of tones. For example, I get to photograph bald eagles to migrate in the winter to my area. Usually the overall scene lighting may not be great and the eagle has a totally white head, dark (brown)wings and torso. I find myself exposing for the head which underexposes the wings
Great Thomas! C'è un modo per avere la misurazione sul soggetto seguito con tracking ml
Thank you!
Sorry what is ML tracking?
@@ThomasEisl.Photography chiedo scusa...volevo dire tracking af...
@@MarcoBeda unfortunately, that is currently not possible. The spot meter will stay in the center and not follow the tracking target.
You can take an initial meter reading and lock the exposure with AEL, however.
@@ThomasEisl.Photography grazie ...hai fatto qualche tutorial su af tracking per soggetti umani?
@@MarcoBeda for that, you should use face detection or C-AF + TR
Both can work well - depending on subject distance and shooting situation.
I do not have a separate video at the moment, unfortunately!
So, if I'm hearing this right the OM-1 has - effectively - 6 stops of "usable" dynamic range, i.e. -3 to +3 EV?
Tough one to answer, actually, and here is why: It depends which tonal value which "zone' will have in the final photograph. If the -4 EV zone sits at black or near black, it is super OK. If you intend bringing it up 4 stops in post production, it is no longer OK.
Also, I have been pretty "strict" in my evaluation. So you might even be satisfied with what you get in the more extreme areas.
In any case, I'm always sticking to the +/- 3 EV rule, because then the images are just always perfect.
@@ThomasEisl.Photography I think people get confused about the term "dynamic range," especially when they look at spec sheets for the new Sony, which claims FIFTEEN STOPS of DR! That makes six stops seem hardly worth having!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears you are showing that there are six stops where you can place 18% gray (Zone V), without clipping either highlights or shadows. Theoretically, the 12-bit ADCs should then give you an additional ~6 stops below and above that point. Does this sound right?
Yes, absolutely correct Jan! What I did here was testing the DR in a very practical way - related to exposure meter readings. I found that my results are quite similar to what photonstophotos got when evaluating the "photographic dynamic range".
I am considering doing a separate video on the topic - my impression is the same as yours, photographers expect 15 stops of usable high fidelity DR (which you just don't get)
Hi Thomas. I am in the process of considering have a system change. The OM-1 is just a bridge to far for me. I am considering the OM-D-E M1-MkIII. Will the same philosophy apply.
Hello Kevin!
The good news: they will apply!
Although I would be a bit more careful with the extreme high and low limits. Assuming 1/3 stop less than in the OM-1 means playing it super safe.
The E-M1III is a fantastic camera and you will for sure like it - the best thing about MFT is however the lenses. Thanks to the unique optical path, those are very spectacular.
A tip: the E-M1II is a true bargain. The IQ is very similar to the 3 and overall performance for most photography is not that different.
Welcome to MFT - you will be pleasantly surprised, I'm pretty sure!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Thank you. I considered the E-M1II but depending where you shop here in New Zealand there is about a $500 difference between the MkII & MkIII. The 3 lenses I am wanting are 8-25, 12-40 & 40-150mm All Pro series.
Great choices!
I would also really consider a 25mm 1.4 Leica or 1.2 Oly Pro in the long run. Having such a fast prime is really nice. Also, it is a great everyday lens, depending on what you want to do of course!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Hi Thomas. I bit the dust and brought the OM 1. What I do? I used to be a Wedding -Portrait Photographer. Not any longer. I am 75. Doing a bit of Landscape, Still Life, Long Exposure, Closeup, Water Drop etc etc.
Hi! At 8:24 how do you get the reading? I half press the shutter button but the Exposure compensation stays at +2.7 even though I am in spot metering mode Manual and ticked all 3 spot metering options.
Which mode are you in?
@@ThomasEisl.Photography manual mode
Ah!
So in manual mode, to get a different reading, you have to change the exposure parameters, not the exp comp - for example shutter speed or f number. Then it should work!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography I got it, thanks!
Does a same type card eyists for the OM-5?
I'm not quite sure what you mean. The dynamic range indicators?
I may have missed something but are you saying to meter only Spot H and Spot S, and not to use just full Spot metering?
Hey Silvia - this was a misunderstanding. I almost always use the regular spot meter as the other two modes just bias the spot meter differently (which can be useful, but is often not necessary). The exact "bias" numbers are on the cheat sheet.
Cheers!
Is it nor easier to use onscreen histogram?
I've got a separate video on that - the "problem" is that the histogram is not as accurate as this method. If you truly want to get the last 10%, then this is the way to go!
I love your videos. But this one kind of lost me. I’m not quite sure how to use this in practice. A few examples might be helpful.
Also how does this relate to ETTR, or Expose To The Right?
First and foremost, thanks for the feedback - it is indeed a very complicated topic!
The good news is that this video is the first of three - this one is covering the theory, the second one will cover exposure preview & histogram and the third one will show how both are applied in a practical shooting scenario.
Maybe to clarifiy things - what I talk about in this video is essentially ETTR and digital Ansel Adams on steroids: by knowing the high fidelity dynamic range of the OM-1, you can basically meter for a subject and place all the metered tonal values in this range (@ ISO 200 +-3 EV). By doing so, you will make sure that you record the subject with the highest possible image quality.
Until the other videos are up, I would recommend setting your OM-1 up for a landscape shot and meter something that you want middle grey. Then, move the AF target/spot meter around and check whether everything is in the +-3EV range. If so, you can take the shot and be sure that you've gotten the best possible IQ. If not, you can shift the exposure around until it is in the +-3EV range. You can adjust the curves or tonal values in a RAW software in post production to get the correct exposure.
To continue with my Ansel Adams analogy, it is basically exposing the perfect "negative" and then making the perfect "print" in the digital darkroom afterwards.
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Awesome! I’ll be watching for those videos.
Regarding HDR you’re talking about ”the resulting RAW-file”. The user manual, however, states that ”The combined picture is saved in JPEG format.” This means, as I understand it, that the OM-1 produces no combined RAW-file when in HDR mode.
Hey Björn - yes, the manual is a little bit ambiguous in that regard. You can test it yourself. Just shoot a relatively white subject with +4 EV (HDR off and one HDR on). Then bring both down by -4EV in a RAW converter. The difference is quite substantial (+1 EV of usable highlights).
So many people tell me that my OM-1 has bad Dynamic range compared to their full frame. Then I laugh when they say they shoot JPEG.
Agreed! Actually, at ISO200 the OM-1 and the Nikon D4 have about the same dynamic range according to the excellent site photostophotons. So yeah, that's pretty awesome I'd say and for sure more than enough for any type of photography
For me in practice much to complicated. I use Zebras which is very practical and you always perfectly Expose To The Right (ETTR) in RAW (at least on Sony with Custom Level 109+ setting). I use it with automatic (and maybe corrected) and manual exposure for years now and is very fast. Don't know if it can be done in an equivalent manner on OM-1. Greetings from Vienna. See ruclips.net/video/HPhC0xr8-IA/видео.html
Hey Gerhard! Yes, the OM has exp. warning as well, just like the Sony!
The downside of this method is that you cannot control the tonal values individually but you set a general ETTR-based exposure. There are issues that come with it, for example that LV is simulating the jpg, not the raw. Those can be critical limitations requiring the more sophisticated approach I described. In any case, I also use the exp warning method, as it is simple and does the job in most scenarios. Thanks for the comment