Great Video myTerrain is at the dealership being repaired for oil consumption issue, now I know and have an idea of what work is being done, Thks hope that you get much more recognition for these videos
On my 2.4 L Chevy Equinox I found the PCV plugged in the intake causing excessive crankcase pressure. Once I removed the intake and cleaned it. My oil consumption problem went away. Found videos on here for that procedure.
@@davidp8627 I think the oil change interval on the dash has people running too long on changes. I have shortened mine and seems to like better with less start up clatter.
So… wife got in her terrain this morning and we had a “crank No start” situation. Looked at the codes… p0340, p0341, p0366 and p0011. Checked the sensors, checked the solenoids… all seem to be operational. The crank sound like there is no compression and it sounds like the timing chain is slipping. One of those I’m at the point of taking at least the valve cover off to look at the chain condition. Thanks for the vid! Super informative and if it is my timing chain at least I know what I’m getting into. The car ran fine yesterday but this morning was a no go. I’m just hoping there is no engine damage. Look forward to more of your content!
@@charltonarmstrong9022 you would think but once I got into it the chain was fine. It was the timing guides, which had not been replaced, that broke and jumped into the rocker area. They then bounced under 2 of the rockers, breaking both, then caused the chain to skip putting the engine out of timing. This all concludes with the interference from the pistons sending at least one valve up and bending one of the cam shafts and cracking the header. If anyone reading this is getting the timing chain done…make SURE they changed the guides when changing the chain! Cost of engine replacement is $7000 to $10,000. We only paid $7,000 for the car so it has become a really large paperweight and we are trying to recoup at least $3500 from the $7000 we paid so we can get something that works for my wife. It’s been a tough lesson learned. When we bought the car it had had the timing chain replaced and the consumption issues fixed. It was at a place up in Missouri and I am in Louisiana less than a year ago but in order to hold that person responsible we would have to travel up there to file a lawsuit. All in all not worth the time or funds to get it fixed. If anyone needs a nice looking, non running terrain…. I got one for ya. Everything else is beautiful.
Thank you for making this video. My daughters had a front timing guide break at the top bolt. RockAuto is fantastic. Best prices and had all the parts needed.
I hope everything worked out, I just posted above in another comment. That guide is what caused our engine failure. Parts of the guide got into the rocker arm area and broke 2 rocker arms, bent the a cam shaft and cracked the header. $7k-$10k to fix. We are selling it just recoup some of the money…
I have a eotec 2.2 in a 2005 chevy malibu ,it's got 210,000 on it I am going to change the timing chain with a complete cloyes kit with water pump. It is sometimes making a catching like the timing chain is catching on something. I hope that it hasn't torn something up in the timing train . I like your video because it gives me a look at some of what it take to do the job in the car.
Thanks for making the video. I have a 2011 Chevy equinox with the 2.4L ecotec. I have not had the timing chain issue -- yet. Here are some of the common problems with this engine that I have had to deal with or repair: 1 - Excessive oil consumption (which was denied after being tested by the dealership.) (Not repaired.) 2 - The rear engine seal blew out due to the PCV system getting clogged and creating high crankcase pressure. (Repaired by shop. $1200) 3 - The VVT solenoids had to be replaced. (Repaired myself.) 4 - The exhaust manifold cracked almost all the way around and caused a bad catalytic converter code. (Repaired myself.) Next, I'll have to remove the intake manifold to clean out the PCV passages or problem #2 will occur again. I was lucky that it didn't cause the engine to be destroyed by blowing all the oil out in a matter of seconds. You could say that I'm not extremely happy with the way this engine is designed and built.
Being Problematic with age would be an understatement. But, they all have issues and the manufacturers adjusting the warranties on new vehicles lower and lower definitely doesn’t give you a fuzzy feeling about having to buy a new car when this one lays down.
@@buffmotorsports4460 Exactly. Also, the warranties on some auto parts such as batteries have been shortened over the last several years. About vehicle warranties, they are shorter on some things while the vehicle prices keep going up. I read somewhere that this is caused because people are keeping their cars longer and the only way new vehicle dealers can remain profitable is to raise price, since sales volume has trended downward over the last 10-20 years.
What symptoms cause the PCV? I have a 2015 gmc terrain denali and just got the engine replaced 3 months ago bc timing chain broke. Now a couple months after getting engine replaced I am getting hesitation during acceleration and deceleration and rough idle. Car ran smooth for about 2 months after engine replacement. I hate this car! What are symptoms of PCV and solenoids?
@@ItsmeBish584 The symptoms you mention should cause a MIL (check engine) light. The code will direct you to the problem area. There are no warning signs to the PCV orifice in the intake manifold becoming clogged. If it happens, the crankcase pressure may increase enough to blow out the rear main seal. If you are lucky, you may notice a huge puddle of oil under the vehicle when it is parked. Then you get it towed to a repair shop for a replacement of main seal and cleaning of PCV system. If unlucky, you may be driving when it happens. After the oil goes out, so does the engine. Then it goes to a repair shop for a replacement engine.
Great video. We had the same car and oil leaks beginning and after finding all of the problems with this engine we decided to cut our losses and ended up selling it for higher than high blue book back to a dealer due to covid-19/etc.. headache gone, bullet dodged.
They’re good little vehicles but some days I look at it in my driveway and wonder if it’s worth it. Currently for me - yes. I can do the work, it’s paid for, and upkeep really isn’t THAT bad. Luckily it’s been a pretty drip free engine for us. Almost to a fault… everything under the car is starting to decay with rust, a little bit of a maintenance drip may not be a bad thing when in the rust belt 🤣
Yes the video was a big help I have to the same job you did I'm not a Chevy person but it looks like it's not to bad of a job other than a bad back and knees lol
Great video. My folks have a 2013 equinox with the 2.4L and it runs poorly with sludge and debris in the oil now for some reason. I think ours also burns oil because the chevy dealer is saying it's low on oil. They think it's a timing chain problem.
The added sludge is likely from the piston ring seal issue associated with these engines. The oil consumption goes hand-in-hand with this issue. I’ve made the conscious decision to continue to use premium grade oil, but change the oil at a conventional interval like 3,000 miles. Our consumption seems to be down, and this helps with cleaning up or atleast mitigating the sludge build-up. Due to the poor ring seal the engines put an increased amount of combustion gasses into the crank case, some of that being oil and when oil burns or break downs you get sludge and varnish deposits. It’s a compounding issue, and without disassembly/rebuild it’s impossible to clean up or prevent. Adopting the lower service interval is like putting the engine on life support. We all know the eventual outcome though. Best of luck!
@@buffmotorsports4460 what oil do you use? I thought our piston rings were bad too but it passed the blow by test I did on it, but it probably isn’t being very obvious. The dealership is also telling us to do 3000 mile intervals. I agree with your life support statement though. I wish it was just the piston rings that were bad, as we could at least get some miles out of this car. Now that the dealer is saying our timing chain is stretched, I know it could jump timing at any time and destroy the engine. We have metal shavings in our oil now too. I appreciate the explanation of how it burns oil though, I finally have an understanding of how the process goes. GM engines are so lame, but unfortunately that’s the only SUV we were able to afford at the time. Time to go Japanese
@@ZareefHuq every manufacturer ends up with a dud at some point, and almost all manufacturers have their own issues. Simply overlooking something in a supply chain or value shopping manufacturing materials and BAM, tons of vehicles with longevity issues. All of the engines we know that last forever is because they’ve stood the test of time. New engines or material changes don’t have the pedigree to know any different and the same could be said about the legends when they were first introduced. You just never know. I would say you’re accurate, if a leak down was performed I think it would still pass without issue. When GM refers to the high consumption it means they’re saying greater than 1/2 quart in 3,000 miles, at that point I would say it will pass a leak down test. If it’s a qt every week or every other, the leak down would likely show different results. As far as The shavings in the oil - that could absolutely be reason for concern. If ran low for too long the engine could run out of available oil in the sump when revving higher rpms like merging on the highway and starve your engine for oil pressure. More than one case of low oil level has led to low oil pressure and bottom end failures. The kicker.... apparently the low oil pressure light/warning doesn’t work as designed either.
Do you happen to have links to all the parts you used my 2010 2.4 equinox is having the same issue and i just want to make sure i get all the right parts and that they are decent quality. Thank for your time and for sharig this video its extreamly helpfully for my up coming project
24:09 Sounds like it made the same rattle lol. Hopefully that was just cuz it was new? (I'm guessing the tensioner has some kind of anti-drainback or something? It seems to happen after sitting longer between startups, maybe 30 min+ ??) I'm facing this job and hoping it goes smoothly.
Sharp ear. While its there, its Far less than it was, and unfortunately I didn’t get a great clip of how it sounded prior for a good comparison. So, the tensioner has a locking mechanism that is supposed to keep it in relative adjustment until engine oil pressure takes over and through the magic of engineering, applies the correct amount of pressure against the chain as well as acting as a damper to keep the chain from slapping during rpm transitions. I also believe the alternator was a bit noisy on this car, and I had a manifold leak at the time from the common cracking that occurs. But, note that the new chain may make some whirling type noise against the new guides until it runs in. Just don’t be alarmed. Best of luck!
Hi! It a perfect video! Thanks a lot!!! Very interesting and detailed information. I have Equinox 2018, 2.0L EcoTec LTG, I need to change timing cover gasket. Can you tell me please where did you found the torque specs for your engine or it's just experience? Appreciate for your help.
Hey Roman, thanks for the feedback! I used AllData DIY. It’s a paid subscription to a digital service data base for everything on your car front to back, top to bottom. Unfortunately you pay for it yearly, but if you know you have a bunch of work to do to said car in that year, that subscription can be worth it’s weight in gold. It has procedures, specs, codes, and troubleshooting information. However - if you just need to know a bolts torque spec you can just identify the bolt size, grade, and pitch. Charts for the recommended torque for specific fastener sizes aren’t too hard to find. Most specs are determined by the bolt itself so regardless of the application the manufacturer has to take that into consideration while engineering everything.
@@buffmotorsports4460 Thanks for AllData, I didn't know about this service. Unfortunately they don't have my car Chevrolet Equinox 2.0 - 2018. The idea about bolts torque spec, perfect! Thanks a lot!
Great videos and very detailed, only question I have is what’s the size of that hex head plug for the guide? I’m currently doing this job but my 3/8 hex is to small. I’m not sure if I’m one size to short or if it’s metric. Thanks again for the video.
I did some looking myself - didn’t find anything so I’m glad you did! I was originally going to tell you that I believed it was metric but you’ve confirmed that yourself. What I did find was the torque spec to use when reassembling… so I can at-least pass that info on as well as - be prepared for that plug to fight you. You’ll have to put a fair amount of force on it to break it free. It may even seem excessive for the 10mm hex to handle. If it’s stubborn give it a tap with a hammer while you’re applying torque to assist with breaking free. 66ft lb and thread-locker on reassembly.
Problem here is people using oil reset to monitor for changes. That sucker will run it up to 9,000 miles per change. Another thing is gasoline. these engine are 11-1 compression. 87 octane is not good enough. Yes the PCM will pull timing but that can only do so much.
Good insight. I Don’t know how I missed this comment! Knock sensors definitely do their job… some manufacturers actually instruct you to use lower octane fuels so the knock sensors have a chance to work and they can adjust accordingly. I’ve heard quite a few times where premium ends up causing more issues than it solves because of poor timing control from the lack of detonation. Sounds Weird… but it happens. Owner/operators manuals have their place.
You probably dont give a shit but if you are bored like me atm you can stream pretty much all of the new movies and series on InstaFlixxer. Have been binge watching with my brother for the last couple of months xD
Should pull right off. I don’t recall needing to break out a puller. Especially since I don’t own anything other than an inexpensive steering wheel puller 😂
Great video, my wife’s equinox 2.4 timing chain bit the dust with no warning, destroying the valves and pistons , found a clean junkyard 2.4 with 43,000 and swapped it in and so far so good , do you have an opinion if I should go ahead and change out the timing chain of the ‘new’ engine at some point? I was thinking when it reached around 100,000 maybe, to avoid what we just went though. Thanks and again a great and very informative video
What year was the donor vehicle? All of my research showed manufacturer corrections in 2015 that could lead to these issues being resolved. I’ve seen cases as low as 60,000 miles when the chains start to make noise. Waiting until 80-100k may be a gamble, also check out my manifold repair video. A cracked manifold sounds a lot like a timing chain slapping too. Good luck!
@@buffmotorsports4460 that’s a good question, I know it fits a 2013 , but not sure what year the engine actually is, do you know if there are casting numbers that would tell me? I know there is a tag under the exhaust manifold, but I’m not sure if it can be seen or read while it’s in the car
Timing chain definitely gives warning! You can literally hear from miles away that its lose and slapping around under the hood! She must've drove it til it broke like I did. I had no idea what the noise was. I took it in and was told throttle body. They cleaned that up and the noise got quieter but never went away. This past july while I was driving my car died at the red light and sputtered when i tried starting it. I got it started and pulled in my friends driveway where it kinda just stalled out and never started back up. Had to get a new engine put in It. Now 3 months after engine replacement I'm having issues again
My friend got this equinox for cheap , any Way I’m fixing it, changed the two timing chains like the utube videos say but still no start and no codes , has fuel and spark . Is it possible I need to spin the crank 180 degrees for the chains?
Timing marks should have all lined up. 180 out and they wouldn’t have lined up, at-least where the crank is at 12 o’clock. Also, the cam position sensors would or should throw a code when too far out of sync. No codes should mean everything is in time or within limits. Failed sensors making that statement false would or should throw codes as well. Also 180 out would be a bad thing being an interference engine and all. No sucking or popping out of the intake or exhaust? I’d be inclined to say a piston crashed into a valve if it needed chains and was picked up on the cheap? How did you go about verifying it had fuel? I believe these are direct injection engines, you can have supply fuel pressure from the in-tank pump but there’s another pump that boosts the pressure before injection. That injection event may not be happening? I want to say I’ve read the secondary pump is known for issues? But I could be wrong.
@@buffmotorsports4460 I meant to say 360 spin if that would make any difference? Yeah a couple rockers broke and are replaced. I only checked for gas pressure on that valve , I guess I should see and smell gas on the plugs tomorrow
Dalbert Kucher if you have access to a cylinder leak-down tester I’d go that route, or if able adapt your compression tester to take an air chuck. Make sure the cyclinder you’re testing has no cam loves keeping a valve open and preferably on bottom dead center. Put air to the cylinder and follow the leak. With all valves closed, and the piston at BDC with an engine In time - there should be no leakage through the intake or the exhaust. If you have a rapid leak I would guess there are bent valves from a piston crashing into them. At that point you’re looking at best a recondition of the head and new valves, possibly new head, maybe pistons/rods... all depends on how bad the hit was. Some of this you won’t know until it is apart for visual inspection. I’m not familiar with the piston material, some materials will handle a crash better than others with a ding or dent vs a crack or chip.
There’s a strong possibility it could be the manifold. I’ve done a video on the replacement of mine as well. Again, it’s another common issue/failure of the engine. Some viewers have reported they’ve replaced their manifolds multiple times due to continued cracking. Does the sound emanate more from under the car when you’re standing with the driver side door open? Or is it concentrated on the passenger side and whether the engine is hot or cold has no effect on the noise?
Very informative, however, that damn rock music is too noisy. I must scramble for the remote so my family doesn't wake up. The music is lauder , WHY? SO FRICKIN IRRITATING! it ruins the integrity of your video.
Too each their own. I will pay more attention to the audio levels though. I thought they were pretty level, but that’s something I can adjust moving forward. Appreciate the feedback!
![Kodak Black - Catch Fire [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A4ch-olIuZo/mqdefault.jpg)
Great Video myTerrain is at the dealership being repaired for oil consumption issue, now I know and have an idea of what work is being done, Thks hope that you get much more recognition for these videos
On my 2.4 L Chevy Equinox I found the PCV plugged in the intake causing excessive crankcase pressure. Once I removed the intake and cleaned it. My oil consumption problem went away. Found videos on here for that procedure.
Unfortunately there is no permanent fix for that issue. 2.4L Ecotec owners have to periodically clean the PCV out.
@@davidp8627 I think the oil change interval on the dash has people running too long on changes. I have shortened mine and seems to like better with less start up clatter.
So… wife got in her terrain this morning and we had a “crank No start” situation. Looked at the codes… p0340, p0341, p0366 and p0011. Checked the sensors, checked the solenoids… all seem to be operational. The crank sound like there is no compression and it sounds like the timing chain is slipping. One of those I’m at the point of taking at least the valve cover off to look at the chain condition. Thanks for the vid! Super informative and if it is my timing chain at least I know what I’m getting into. The car ran fine yesterday but this morning was a no go. I’m just hoping there is no engine damage. Look forward to more of your content!
chain probably broke, and chain is probably just slapping around inside. take the valve cover off and check
@@charltonarmstrong9022 you would think but once I got into it the chain was fine. It was the timing guides, which had not been replaced, that broke and jumped into the rocker area. They then bounced under 2 of the rockers, breaking both, then caused the chain to skip putting the engine out of timing. This all concludes with the interference from the pistons sending at least one valve up and bending one of the cam shafts and cracking the header. If anyone reading this is getting the timing chain done…make SURE they changed the guides when changing the chain! Cost of engine replacement is $7000 to $10,000. We only paid $7,000 for the car so it has become a really large paperweight and we are trying to recoup at least $3500 from the $7000 we paid so we can get something that works for my wife. It’s been a tough lesson learned. When we bought the car it had had the timing chain replaced and the consumption issues fixed. It was at a place up in Missouri and I am in Louisiana less than a year ago but in order to hold that person responsible we would have to travel up there to file a lawsuit. All in all not worth the time or funds to get it fixed. If anyone needs a nice looking, non running terrain…. I got one for ya. Everything else is beautiful.
Thank you for making this video. My daughters had a front timing guide break at the top bolt. RockAuto is fantastic. Best prices and had all the parts needed.
Man Chris, sorry for the late reply. Hope the daughters car is still up and kicking around!
I hope everything worked out, I just posted above in another comment. That guide is what caused our engine failure. Parts of the guide got into the rocker arm area and broke 2 rocker arms, bent the a cam shaft and cracked the header. $7k-$10k to fix. We are selling it just recoup some of the money…
I have a eotec 2.2 in a 2005 chevy malibu ,it's got 210,000 on it I am going to change the timing chain with a complete cloyes kit with water pump. It is sometimes making a catching like the timing chain is catching on something. I hope that it hasn't torn something up in the timing train . I like your video because it gives me a look at some of what it take to do the job in the car.
Thanks for making the video. I have a 2011 Chevy equinox with the 2.4L ecotec. I have not had the timing chain issue -- yet.
Here are some of the common problems with this engine that I have had to deal with or repair:
1 - Excessive oil consumption (which was denied after being tested by the dealership.) (Not repaired.)
2 - The rear engine seal blew out due to the PCV system getting clogged and creating high crankcase pressure. (Repaired by shop. $1200)
3 - The VVT solenoids had to be replaced. (Repaired myself.)
4 - The exhaust manifold cracked almost all the way around and caused a bad catalytic converter code. (Repaired myself.)
Next, I'll have to remove the intake manifold to clean out the PCV passages or problem #2 will occur again. I was lucky that it didn't cause the engine to be destroyed by blowing all the oil out in a matter of seconds.
You could say that I'm not extremely happy with the way this engine is designed and built.
Being Problematic with age would be an understatement. But, they all have issues and the manufacturers adjusting the warranties on new vehicles lower and lower definitely doesn’t give you a fuzzy feeling about having to buy a new car when this one lays down.
@@buffmotorsports4460 Exactly. Also, the warranties on some auto parts such as batteries have been shortened over the last several years. About vehicle warranties, they are shorter on some things while the vehicle prices keep going up. I read somewhere that this is caused because people are keeping their cars longer and the only way new vehicle dealers can remain profitable is to raise price, since sales volume has trended downward over the last 10-20 years.
What symptoms cause the PCV? I have a 2015 gmc terrain denali and just got the engine replaced 3 months ago bc timing chain broke. Now a couple months after getting engine replaced I am getting hesitation during acceleration and deceleration and rough idle. Car ran smooth for about 2 months after engine replacement. I hate this car! What are symptoms of PCV and solenoids?
@@ItsmeBish584 The symptoms you mention should cause a MIL (check engine) light. The code will direct you to the problem area. There are no warning signs to the PCV orifice in the intake manifold becoming clogged. If it happens, the crankcase pressure may increase enough to blow out the rear main seal. If you are lucky, you may notice a huge puddle of oil under the vehicle when it is parked. Then you get it towed to a repair shop for a replacement of main seal and cleaning of PCV system. If unlucky, you may be driving when it happens. After the oil goes out, so does the engine. Then it goes to a repair shop for a replacement engine.
Great video. We had the same car and oil leaks beginning and after finding all of the problems with this engine we decided to cut our losses and ended up selling it for higher than high blue book back to a dealer due to covid-19/etc.. headache gone, bullet dodged.
They’re good little vehicles but some days I look at it in my driveway and wonder if it’s worth it. Currently for me - yes. I can do the work, it’s paid for, and upkeep really isn’t THAT bad.
Luckily it’s been a pretty drip free engine for us. Almost to a fault… everything under the car is starting to decay with rust, a little bit of a maintenance drip may not be a bad thing when in the rust belt 🤣
Thanks for the video. I may be doing this for my daughter's 2012 gmc terrain soon.
Happy to help. Hope it goes according to plan!
Great video. Very informative and detailed. PLEASE keep making more videos!
Yes the video was a big help I have to the same job you did I'm not a Chevy person but it looks like it's not to bad of a job other than a bad back and knees lol
4 years ago makes me curious about since you didn’t replace the rings how is this thing running
Great job.. explaining all the process -- lets DIYers attack this job with more confidence.. well done
Mark Kilburn Appreciate the positive feedback Mark!
@@buffmotorsports4460 I might have to do mine
looks pretty simple ..nice work ..
Great video. My folks have a 2013 equinox with the 2.4L and it runs poorly with sludge and debris in the oil now for some reason. I think ours also burns oil because the chevy dealer is saying it's low on oil. They think it's a timing chain problem.
The added sludge is likely from the piston ring seal issue associated with these engines. The oil consumption goes hand-in-hand with this issue. I’ve made the conscious decision to continue to use premium grade oil, but change the oil at a conventional interval like 3,000 miles. Our consumption seems to be down, and this helps with cleaning up or atleast mitigating the sludge build-up.
Due to the poor ring seal the engines put an increased amount of combustion gasses into the crank case, some of that being oil and when oil burns or break downs you get sludge and varnish deposits. It’s a compounding issue, and without disassembly/rebuild it’s impossible to clean up or prevent.
Adopting the lower service interval is like putting the engine on life support. We all know the eventual outcome though. Best of luck!
@@buffmotorsports4460 what oil do you use? I thought our piston rings were bad too but it passed the blow by test I did on it, but it probably isn’t being very obvious. The dealership is also telling us to do 3000 mile intervals. I agree with your life support statement though. I wish it was just the piston rings that were bad, as we could at least get some miles out of this car. Now that the dealer is saying our timing chain is stretched, I know it could jump timing at any time and destroy the engine. We have metal shavings in our oil now too.
I appreciate the explanation of how it burns oil though, I finally have an understanding of how the process goes. GM engines are so lame, but unfortunately that’s the only SUV we were able to afford at the time. Time to go Japanese
@@ZareefHuq every manufacturer ends up with a dud at some point, and almost all manufacturers have their own issues. Simply overlooking something in a supply chain or value shopping manufacturing materials and BAM, tons of vehicles with longevity issues. All of the engines we know that last forever is because they’ve stood the test of time. New engines or material changes don’t have the pedigree to know any different and the same could be said about the legends when they were first introduced. You just never know.
I would say you’re accurate, if a leak down was performed I think it would still pass without issue. When GM refers to the high consumption it means they’re saying greater than 1/2 quart in 3,000 miles, at that point I would say it will pass a leak down test. If it’s a qt every week or every other, the leak down would likely show different results. As far as The shavings in the oil - that could absolutely be reason for concern. If ran low for too long the engine could run out of available oil in the sump when revving higher rpms like merging on the highway and starve your engine for oil pressure. More than one case of low oil level has led to low oil pressure and bottom end failures. The kicker.... apparently the low oil pressure light/warning doesn’t work as designed either.
Do you happen to have links to all the parts you used my 2010 2.4 equinox is having the same issue and i just want to make sure i get all the right parts and that they are decent quality. Thank for your time and for sharig this video its extreamly helpfully for my up coming project
Very helpful video, Thanks!
That was amazing. It sound way better.
Great job and video
24:09 Sounds like it made the same rattle lol. Hopefully that was just cuz it was new? (I'm guessing the tensioner has some kind of anti-drainback or something? It seems to happen after sitting longer between startups, maybe 30 min+ ??) I'm facing this job and hoping it goes smoothly.
Sharp ear. While its there, its Far less than it was, and unfortunately I didn’t get a great clip of how it sounded prior for a good comparison.
So, the tensioner has a locking mechanism that is supposed to keep it in relative adjustment until engine oil pressure takes over and through the magic of engineering, applies the correct amount of pressure against the chain as well as acting as a damper to keep the chain from slapping during rpm transitions.
I also believe the alternator was a bit noisy on this car, and I had a manifold leak at the time from the common cracking that occurs. But, note that the new chain may make some whirling type noise against the new guides until it runs in. Just don’t be alarmed.
Best of luck!
So, what happened to the automatic chain tensioner? Did you fixed the old one, or did you had put a new one in the engine?
How much time would you say that you actually spent doing this job? Thanks
Hi! It a perfect video! Thanks a lot!!! Very interesting and detailed information. I have Equinox 2018, 2.0L EcoTec LTG, I need to change timing cover gasket. Can you tell me please where did you found the torque specs for your engine or it's just experience? Appreciate for your help.
Hey Roman, thanks for the feedback!
I used AllData DIY. It’s a paid subscription to a digital service data base for everything on your car front to back, top to bottom. Unfortunately you pay for it yearly, but if you know you have a bunch of work to do to said car in that year, that subscription can be worth it’s weight in gold. It has procedures, specs, codes, and troubleshooting information.
However - if you just need to know a bolts torque spec you can just identify the bolt size, grade, and pitch. Charts for the recommended torque for specific fastener sizes aren’t too hard to find. Most specs are determined by the bolt itself so regardless of the application the manufacturer has to take that into consideration while engineering everything.
@@buffmotorsports4460 Thanks for AllData, I didn't know about this service. Unfortunately they don't have my car Chevrolet Equinox 2.0 - 2018. The idea about bolts torque spec, perfect! Thanks a lot!
Great videos and very detailed, only question I have is what’s the size of that hex head plug for the guide? I’m currently doing this job but my 3/8 hex is to small. I’m not sure if I’m one size to short or if it’s metric. Thanks again for the video.
Update to my question. I continued to look into it and found out it’s a 10mm hex for anyone else that might be curious.
I did some looking myself - didn’t find anything so I’m glad you did! I was originally going to tell you that I believed it was metric but you’ve confirmed that yourself.
What I did find was the torque spec to use when reassembling… so I can at-least pass that info on as well as - be prepared for that plug to fight you. You’ll have to put a fair amount of force on it to break it free. It may even seem excessive for the 10mm hex to handle.
If it’s stubborn give it a tap with a hammer while you’re applying torque to assist with breaking free.
66ft lb and thread-locker on reassembly.
Problem here is people using oil reset to monitor for changes. That sucker will run it up to 9,000 miles per change. Another thing is gasoline. these engine are 11-1 compression. 87 octane is not good enough. Yes the PCM will pull timing but that can only do so much.
Good insight. I Don’t know how I missed this comment!
Knock sensors definitely do their job… some manufacturers actually instruct you to use lower octane fuels so the knock sensors have a chance to work and they can adjust accordingly. I’ve heard quite a few times where premium ends up causing more issues than it solves because of poor timing control from the lack of detonation. Sounds Weird… but it happens.
Owner/operators manuals have their place.
Very good videos as always .you sound like the guy from the tv series bonanza.
Appreciate this video... very well done. Thank you.
This video really helped me bro, thank you!
Glad to hear it!
You probably dont give a shit but if you are bored like me atm you can stream pretty much all of the new movies and series on InstaFlixxer. Have been binge watching with my brother for the last couple of months xD
@Leo Antonio yup, I've been watching on InstaFlixxer for since november myself :)
Supper awesome
Is the crank pulley pressed on or can you just pull it off with your hands ?
Should pull right off. I don’t recall needing to break out a puller.
Especially since I don’t own anything other than an inexpensive steering wheel puller 😂
@@buffmotorsports4460 Thank you foe the response.
How many miles were on this car?
Great video! Thanks!
Great video, my wife’s equinox 2.4 timing chain bit the dust with no warning, destroying the valves and pistons , found a clean junkyard 2.4
with 43,000 and swapped it in and so far so good , do you have an opinion if I should go ahead and change out the timing chain of the ‘new’ engine at some point? I was thinking when it reached around 100,000 maybe, to avoid what we just went though.
Thanks and again a great and very informative video
What year was the donor vehicle? All of my research showed manufacturer corrections in 2015 that could lead to these issues being resolved. I’ve seen cases as low as 60,000 miles when the chains start to make noise. Waiting until 80-100k may be a gamble, also check out my manifold repair video. A cracked manifold sounds a lot like a timing chain slapping too. Good luck!
@@buffmotorsports4460 that’s a good question, I know it fits a 2013 , but not sure what year the engine actually is, do you know if there are casting numbers that would tell me? I know there is a tag under the exhaust manifold, but I’m not sure if it can be seen or read while it’s in the car
J Mg I’m not sure, there should be a casting/engine designation somewhere but I can’t really offer help in that matter. Forums can be helpful!
@@buffmotorsports4460 thanks brother, keep up the good work!
Timing chain definitely gives warning! You can literally hear from miles away that its lose and slapping around under the hood! She must've drove it til it broke like I did. I had no idea what the noise was. I took it in and was told throttle body. They cleaned that up and the noise got quieter but never went away. This past july while I was driving my car died at the red light and sputtered when i tried starting it. I got it started and pulled in my friends driveway where it kinda just stalled out and never started back up. Had to get a new engine put in It. Now 3 months after engine replacement I'm having issues again
I’ve been here on my 2014 Malibu I replaced everything up under that MF!
My friend got this equinox for cheap , any Way I’m fixing it, changed the two timing chains like the utube videos say but still no start and no codes , has fuel and spark . Is it possible I need to spin the crank 180 degrees for the chains?
Timing marks should have all lined up. 180 out and they wouldn’t have lined up, at-least where the crank is at 12 o’clock. Also, the cam position sensors would or should throw a code when too far out of sync. No codes should mean everything is in time or within limits. Failed sensors making that statement false would or should throw codes as well.
Also 180 out would be a bad thing being an interference engine and all. No sucking or popping out of the intake or exhaust? I’d be inclined to say a piston crashed into a valve if it needed chains and was picked up on the cheap?
How did you go about verifying it had fuel? I believe these are direct injection engines, you can have supply fuel pressure from the in-tank pump but there’s another pump that boosts the pressure before injection. That injection event may not be happening? I want to say I’ve read the secondary pump is known for issues?
But I could be wrong.
@@buffmotorsports4460 I meant to say 360 spin if that would make any difference? Yeah a couple rockers broke and are replaced. I only checked for gas pressure on that valve , I guess I should see and smell gas on the plugs tomorrow
The cylinders have gas but has no compression on any cylinder . What is the next step?
Dalbert Kucher if you have access to a cylinder leak-down tester I’d go that route, or if able adapt your compression tester to take an air chuck. Make sure the cyclinder you’re testing has no cam loves keeping a valve open and preferably on bottom dead center. Put air to the cylinder and follow the leak.
With all valves closed, and the piston at BDC with an engine In time - there should be no leakage through the intake or the exhaust. If you have a rapid leak I would guess there are bent valves from a piston crashing into them.
At that point you’re looking at best a recondition of the head and new valves, possibly new head, maybe pistons/rods... all depends on how bad the hit was. Some of this you won’t know until it is apart for visual inspection. I’m not familiar with the piston material, some materials will handle a crash better than others with a ding or dent vs a crack or chip.
hello i have 2010 equinox with same noise i tjought it was a cracked exhaust manifold
There’s a strong possibility it could be the manifold. I’ve done a video on the replacement of mine as well.
Again, it’s another common issue/failure of the engine. Some viewers have reported they’ve replaced their manifolds multiple times due to continued cracking.
Does the sound emanate more from under the car when you’re standing with the driver side door open? Or is it concentrated on the passenger side and whether the engine is hot or cold has no effect on the noise?
These i vid is nowhere detailed as i thought it would be but hey its something i guess
Very informative, however, that damn rock music is too noisy. I must scramble for the remote so my family doesn't wake up. The music is lauder , WHY? SO FRICKIN IRRITATING!
it ruins the integrity of your video.
Too each their own. I will pay more attention to the audio levels though. I thought they were pretty level, but that’s something I can adjust moving forward. Appreciate the feedback!