I'm also starting up a Facebook page. I'll post more updates and maybe some mini photo tutorials there for you guys. Join in if you'd like! facebook.com/groups/340301663065416/?ref=aymt_homepage_panel
Thanks for these videos! The hairspray method is quite good for the pocket in my country where all ak products are super expensive. Also, have you tried artist graphite fixer? it is basically the same as hairspray fix but a stronger mix, it is used to fix graphite on paper for drawing. Maybe it gives different results, as it is also water soluble.
Hey Panzermeister - great video :) I just completed my own video on chipping, and I also found that AK Interactive gave less control compared to hairspray, less subtlety in the results. For me the big surprise was Vallejo Chipping Medium - it seems to be that elusive "best of both worlds". I always try to recommend saving money, but in this case I'm a convert to Vallejo's product! Cheers, Dave
Something I tried last week was two-colour chipping with the hairspray technique, suprisingly it actually worked out very well. I first painted the tank in silver, followed by some hairspray, then black followed by hairspray and then the main colour. It really worked very well with some very realistic chips.
I know this is a year or so old, but I would just like to say a HUGE thank you for doing this video. For months now I have been putting off painting my Takom 1/35 SMK which is a cracking kit, but I wanted to do a winter white camo over the base green colour. I have been trying Tresomme hair spray and chipping fluid from Mig. I have been using acrylic white paint(s) from various manufacturers and the only results I could get was large flaking. I tried all sorts of combos (on a dummy model) of time to dry, heaviness of both paint and fluid etc, but nothing seemed to work. Then I watched your video, and I heard you say about using Tamiya (alcohol) based. Bingo. It worked like a treat. That was the missing link. Now onto my SMK. Thank you, much appreciated.
Excellent comparison as I own both. I’ve used the AK Worn Effects with great success in a Maus model in 1/35 scale. Have a Lowe to do now and might try spraying the hairspray method.
Dollar store hairspray in a pump works great. It just needs one layer. Next I want to try painting hairspray on with a brush, to be more accurate. This is very detailed comparison. Thank you!
Remember that it is called "heavy chipping fluid". It is made for heavy weathering, they have another product for smaller chips. The heavy chipping one is meant to make the effect of something that is very heavily worn or just very old
For me the ease of reaching for a can and spraying, and possibly the cost, means that I will use the hairspray technique. Really appreciate you showing us this mate. Cheers, Al
I'm getting ready to have a go at my first winter camo effect on an M4A3 so devouring these videos and tips on the forum. Honestly hairspray seems to be the go. Price and convenience it can't be beaten and I've not seen any definitive results suggesting the expensive chipping fluids are demonstrably better. Cheers!
they also make a chipping fluid called 'worn effects' which produce the smaller chips you get with hairspray. i have only tried it once but the results were good. however once i have used that bottle up, i am going to try cheap poundland hairspray for both convenience and cost :)
Muy buena compactación, gracias a tus conocimientos puedes mostrarnos las diferencias entre un producto y otro, entre una técnica y otra y así poder tomar la mejor dirección en nuestro modelo. Todo esto es de gran ayuda, gracias!
I use "aussie" pump hairspray from 'Dollar General' applied by airbrush (don't know the pressure all I have right now is that cheap 'Master Airbrush' on demand pump) and Vallejo paint. I'm able to get some pretty fine chipping. I have found it important to make sure to get even coverage with two thin coats of both hairspray and paint, because the thicker paint produces bigger chips as well as longer drying time.
Interesting test. I’ve used both and tend to go for hairspray as it is just easier to do a quick blast from the can and it saves me cleaning my airbrush. My current project will be getting this treatment Last time I applied too much hairspray and the chips were crazy big, so I was interested to see your method of application
Panzermeister36 hi Evan. It is the meng zsu24 shilka. I’ve used hairspray a few times. Most successfully on a Syrian style t55, but last time I went too heavy on the application and chips were crazy big. So I need to have a little more finesse. If I’m feeling brave I may do a camo scheme and try a second hairspray chip like you did on stug. We shall see lol
always good to see the comparison! it also seems to be a matter of taste. i like the look of the AK chipping fluid chips better. as you said, it would be cool to have the best of both worlds :)
I used to use the Hairspray technique but, since I got AK's 'Heavy Chipping' effect I have not looked back. Like you I found that there maybe added chemicals in hairspray which may tamper with later painting processes, this alone put me off. I also found that hairspray was a lot harder work to remove in general, and could sometimes find myself scrubbing down to the bare plastic on some raised areas, not to mention that it became stupidly hard to remove after a week or so had past. Also the application through the spray can seemed a bit hit-and-miss, I found it lacked the precision of the airbrush and, that many areas could be missed. As for AK's chipping effect, I love it! At first it was a steep learning curve, which can be seen on a couple of my models I first tried it on, but after a while I grew more used to it. The application of the AK chipping fluid is important, and the difference between adding 1 to 2 to 3 coats..etc... can make the difference, the same goes to removing it. The fluid activates very aggressively thus, if you are too heavy handed with it, you can overdo the chipping. This doesn't mean fine chipping cannot be achieved, use this ease of chipping to your advantage and hey presto, fine chipps. The only issue I found with the AK chipping fluid is that it goes stringy after a month or two of not being in use, this will require the paint pot to be filtered, otherwise it will jam the airbrsh. A bit of a disappointment after such great results elsewhere. However this is my experience and this is what works for me, the best thing to do in modelling is try new things, and find what works best for yourself. As always a very formative video with some great points highlighted, very professional with the two test beds. I also liked the comparison between two finished models, as it showed how the different products can effect/ be utilized for the finished model. Keep up the good work! Thanks
Interesting comparison video! For light chips vs hairspray as mentioned below you want to compare AK's lighter chipping fluid, which is not very well named imo as worn effects (instead of 'light') but anyway appreciate the comparison! I'm not a huge fan of hairspray technique as it is difficult to get a good coat (of any aerosol) in our humid climate =/ so kind of stuck with using the airbrush, tho I'm not good at it either lol
Another vote for hairspray. Chips look more in scale, that exact brand costs less than $3USD for the large can and the convenience of just shaking the can and applying with no airbrush cleanup.
Hairspray for me - easier to use, more subtle (and in scale), easy to get a hold of. The hairspray can be more heavily weathered if you want, you need to do a little extra work though. Overall, hairspray is just more versatile!
Also, keep in mind what paints you are using. Acrylics, typically, are more difficult to chip - Tamiya acrylics, thinned with water, are good though (not a true acrylic). Apparently Lifecolor is good too (haven't tried them for chipping). Enamels work really well.
I think there's a big X factor in what paint you use. Adam Wilder recommends Tamiya thinned 1:1 with water. That will weaken that paint - you'd never thin Tamiya with Water. The intention is to weaken the paint - in other words do something you wouldn't do for a regular paint job. After all, you want the paint to come off. Rinaldi uses Tamiya with lacquer thinner. I've actually had decent luck with AK - but I use their "Worn Effects" which is considerably milder than "Heavy Chipping" - and AK claims you can brush the stuff on just as well as airbrush it. I think Dave's good luck with Vallejo was due to the light hand used - heavier use with any of the chipping fluids will cause big chips - although that might be exactly what you want. Rinaldi sometimes skips the hairspray/fluid step completely if using whitewash - he takes it off with a light brushing with lacquer thinner - and that does work. (I've found that if the chipping is coming slow, just dampen it a little with ISP - then give it a light brush - a paint brush, not a tooth brush. I think that doing whitewash and just aiming for standard chipping may require different approach.
I've tried the scratches effects and the heavy chipping and I think that you want the scratches effects. From what I've understood the heavy chipping is supposed to chip like that. The scratches effects from my trials is very close to hair spray, so you might find that one more to your liking. Awesome vids by the way. :)
The hairspray that i have damages the base coat, so i always have to add a protective layor between the base coat and the hair spray before adding the chipping white layor and chipping it Edit: it might have something to do with the fact i dont have an airbrush and i apply my paint with a brush, so it is not as thin
I’m going to base paint a tiger German gray with a white camo chipped using hairspray technique. I also want to add a pin wash and oil streaks. In your opinion, what order does that need to go in and do I need to satin varnish at any time?
I would paint the Tiger grey and apply any decals and chipping effects first. Then two thin coats of hairspray, then white, then chip it. After it has all dried you can apply a satin varnish to lock in your chipping. Next I would apply the pinwash, and lastly the streaking effects.
I have a question. After applying the paint on the hairspray or chipping fluid, how long does the paint has to dry before chipping it? And thanks a lot for your outstanding vids!
I did 4 sets of chipping: 10 minutes, 1 hour, 3 hours, and 30 hours after applying the paint. Tamiya paints dry pretty quick so 10 minutes is plenty long enough.
After the chipping technique is finished do you seal the model? I'm just afraid of the stability of the paint with the hairspray underneath. I have not seen this issue addressed yet so just wondering what your thoughts are on this.
+JPMerce12 you can seal it if you want to; there is no harm in a varnish "just in case". I never do since hairspray and the acrylic paints will not be affected by enamel thinners, only water or alcohol based thinners. Of course, if you're using a really hot enamel thinner or really weak acrylics like Vallejo, then be sure to seal it.
Thanks for the quick reply. I am trying to bend the learning curve a lot. Latest issue was using a Tamiya Flat clear coat after using artist oils for chipping effects. I guess I didn't wait long enough because all the chipping effects turned white after clear coating....sooo now its going get whitewashed!@@Panzermeister36
+JPMerce12 yes that was likely the issue. How long did you wait after applying the oils, and did you soak the linseed oil out of them? I would leave them to soak for at least 4 hours and wait a few days before vanishing over them.
Well..lol. I put the oils on cardboard taking the paint from the top. It seemed to be drying rather quick so I started right away. And it was probably less than an hour after I was done that I dull coated. Now I know. I assume most guys are using acrylic or lacquer paints for this reason. @@Panzermeister36
+JPMerce12 yeah usually oils are not used for chipping, but for doing dust and streaking effects and tinting of the base colour. Acrylics dry fast so myself and many other use them for chipping. And yes, the oils will start to dry out after you leave them out on the cardboard. That is fine; they're not like acrylics where it can be hard to reactivate without ruining the paint. Leave them out for a number of hours, then once the linseed oil has soaked out you can reactivate the oil paint with a little thinner. They'll be just like when they came out of the tube, just now they're thinned with proper enamel thinner or whatnot instead of linseed oil.
Hi Panzermeister36, im having a lot of issues with Vallejo chipping medium, ive noticed that when i spray it on to my model it would dry with an orange peel texture and when spraying a coat of paint it cracks and looks awful, i've tried many different PSI's, adding water and even applying it with a fine brush, i seem to get the same effect, could you give me any idea as to what i may be doing wrong please,
I've never used that product specifically, but I may have an idea. Are you applying it in a few super thin coats, just misting it on? Those cracks appear with the AK Interactive chipping fluids if you apply too heavy of a coat of the chipping fluid, or if you apply the top colour before the chipping fluid has entirely dried.
thank you for a fast reply, its much appreciated, i have tried laying it on in thin coats with the same results, ive left it to dry at different amounts of time, also with same result, i just came across a guy and in his video he compared AK, Vallejo and hair spray, and hes had the exact same issue, so i think ill leave the Vallejo and give hair spray a try instead, his video if you find it interesting is ruclips.net/video/ZEfVLy7erqk/видео.html thank you for your time Panzermeister36, i love your videos and its awesome that you replied so quickly.
Ok thanks for reply. I was thinking dark grey black would be too stark. Then I was thinking that maybe, given the whitewash was sploshed over the top of the normal state of the vehicle, that a dark brown black pin wash first, then hair spray, then chipping. So any chipping could reveal the darker washes and chips. I like the idea of a lighter purpley wash. Thanks.
Yes the paint you apply on top (in this case white) will fully cure in about 5 hours and it should be pretty locked in by that point. But you can also apply a varnish to feel more confident about it.
Kind of an unrelated question, but how do you paint in the winter without freezing your butt or burning away a few brain cells from the fumes ? Thank you for the video. I have been curious bout which product for chipping I should use. Very informative
You can assemble a home-made spray booth for less than 200$ and feed it through in a window that you can open and plug temporarily with a plastic core panel ( i.e. *For Sale* signs ) equipped with an exhaust duct bought at Home Depot or similar... and buy to a good quality "squirrel cage" bathroom fan (200cfm) and make your own extractor booth and it will handle most of the fumes... lots of good examples on Y-tube and lots of bad ones as well but ... it beats sucking in the fumes! I have been using one of those for 20+ years and no probs.
SchweinHund227 I honestly have never thought of that. Thank you very much ! I will look into it and do some research. It could also be an interesting side project saving me a few hundred bucks !
The old tried and tested methods usually work better and by the look of it this is no different. In my experience, very rarely does a new ‘wonder’ product ever really improve things much.
Youre videos are great for learning.......but holy cow man do you just keep repeating yourself......you must say the word chip and chipping close to a million times......it starts to lose its meaning and burn a hole through my brain to the point where it becomes likes nails on a chalk board just to hear the word every time you say it.......but other than that i love your videos
@@Panzermeister36 yeah it totally is......but the use of the word becomes so redundant that it becomes a turn off in a way and makes me never want to hear that word used again for a long time......like i said.....i absolutely love your videos......they are awesome and i have learned so much from watching them......i was just saying the use of that word became a bit overkill in my opinion.......but my opinion doesnt mean much........just ask my girlfriend about that one......lol
I'm also starting up a Facebook page. I'll post more updates and maybe some mini photo tutorials there for you guys. Join in if you'd like!
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Panzermeister36 Sign me in!
Panzermeister36 amazing work!
Thanks for these videos! The hairspray method is quite good for the pocket in my country where all ak products are super expensive. Also, have you tried artist graphite fixer? it is basically the same as hairspray fix but a stronger mix, it is used to fix graphite on paper for drawing. Maybe it gives different results, as it is also water soluble.
Hey Panzermeister - great video :) I just completed my own video on chipping, and I also found that AK Interactive gave less control compared to hairspray, less subtlety in the results. For me the big surprise was Vallejo Chipping Medium - it seems to be that elusive "best of both worlds". I always try to recommend saving money, but in this case I'm a convert to Vallejo's product! Cheers, Dave
Something I tried last week was two-colour chipping with the hairspray technique, suprisingly it actually worked out very well. I first painted the tank in silver, followed by some hairspray, then black followed by hairspray and then the main colour. It really worked very well with some very realistic chips.
I kinda thought that would work very well. Next tank... cool!!
This was Very useful. I say that as someone who hasn't used the technique before so many thanks.
As I am new to weathering, and so chipping, i really appreciate the comparison between these products. Great work.
I know this is a year or so old, but I would just like to say a HUGE thank you for doing this video. For months now I have been putting off painting my Takom 1/35 SMK which is a cracking kit, but I wanted to do a winter white camo over the base green colour. I have been trying Tresomme hair spray and chipping fluid from Mig. I have been using acrylic white paint(s) from various manufacturers and the only results I could get was large flaking. I tried all sorts of combos (on a dummy model) of time to dry, heaviness of both paint and fluid etc, but nothing seemed to work. Then I watched your video, and I heard you say about using Tamiya (alcohol) based. Bingo. It worked like a treat. That was the missing link. Now onto my SMK. Thank you, much appreciated.
+Tim Roberts I'm very glad this video has been helpful to you. Good luck on painting the SMK...that's a very cool subject!
Excellent comparison as I own both. I’ve used the AK Worn Effects with great success in a Maus model in 1/35 scale. Have a Lowe to do now and might try spraying the hairspray method.
Dollar store hairspray in a pump works great. It just needs one layer. Next I want to try painting hairspray on with a brush, to be more accurate.
This is very detailed comparison. Thank you!
Remember that it is called "heavy chipping fluid". It is made for heavy weathering, they have another product for smaller chips. The heavy chipping one is meant to make the effect of something that is very heavily worn or just very old
Yeah this, I didn't realize it as well when I first bought it, but now I've mucked with it a good bit, it's quite fun as well
Very fine thank you 😊
Thank you. I think I'll stick to the hair spray. I enjoyed the comparison. You did me a very large favor. Thank you. Have fun and stay safe
For me the ease of reaching for a can and spraying, and possibly the cost, means that I will use the hairspray technique. Really appreciate you showing us this mate. Cheers, Al
I'm getting ready to have a go at my first winter camo effect on an M4A3 so devouring these videos and tips on the forum. Honestly hairspray seems to be the go. Price and convenience it can't be beaten and I've not seen any definitive results suggesting the expensive chipping fluids are demonstrably better. Cheers!
My kids learned a lot from this video. Appreciate ya 👍
they also make a chipping fluid called 'worn effects' which produce the smaller chips you get with hairspray. i have only tried it once but the results were good. however once i have used that bottle up, i am going to try cheap poundland hairspray for both convenience and cost :)
Muy buena compactación, gracias a tus conocimientos puedes mostrarnos las diferencias entre un producto y otro, entre una técnica y otra y así poder tomar la mejor dirección en nuestro modelo. Todo esto es de gran ayuda, gracias!
Thank you for the video. As a first time chipper it was very informative, and easy for me to understand.
I use "aussie" pump hairspray from 'Dollar General' applied by airbrush (don't know the pressure all I have right now is that cheap 'Master Airbrush' on demand pump) and Vallejo paint. I'm able to get some pretty fine chipping. I have found it important to make sure to get even coverage with two thin coats of both hairspray and paint, because the thicker paint produces bigger chips as well as longer drying time.
Interesting test. I’ve used both and tend to go for hairspray as it is just easier to do a quick blast from the can and it saves me cleaning my airbrush. My current project will be getting this treatment Last time I applied too much hairspray and the chips were crazy big, so I was interested to see your method of application
Hey Mark! What's the vehicle you're chipping? :D
Panzermeister36 hi Evan. It is the meng zsu24 shilka. I’ve used hairspray a few times. Most successfully on a Syrian style t55, but last time I went too heavy on the application and chips were crazy big. So I need to have a little more finesse. If I’m feeling brave I may do a camo scheme and try a second hairspray chip like you did on stug. We shall see lol
Great video!
You said it first, “In scale”.
Hairspray looks so much better.
Thank you.
Thank you very much!
always good to see the comparison! it also seems to be a matter of taste. i like the look of the AK chipping fluid chips better. as you said, it would be cool to have the best of both worlds :)
Heresy! HS is better ;)
Big up dude... your vids are awesome, very good understandable explanation and must say the best work in result.
I used to use the Hairspray technique but, since I got AK's 'Heavy Chipping' effect I have not looked back.
Like you I found that there maybe added chemicals in hairspray which may tamper with later painting processes, this alone put me off.
I also found that hairspray was a lot harder work to remove in general, and could sometimes find myself scrubbing down to the bare plastic on some raised areas, not to mention that it became stupidly hard to remove after a week or so had past.
Also the application through the spray can seemed a bit hit-and-miss, I found it lacked the precision of the airbrush and, that many areas could be missed.
As for AK's chipping effect, I love it! At first it was a steep learning curve, which can be seen on a couple of my models I first tried it on, but after a while I grew more used to it. The application of the AK chipping fluid is important, and the difference between adding 1 to 2 to 3 coats..etc... can make the difference, the same goes to removing it. The fluid activates very aggressively thus, if you are too heavy handed with it, you can overdo the chipping. This doesn't mean fine chipping cannot be achieved, use this ease of chipping to your advantage and hey presto, fine chipps. The only issue I found with the AK chipping fluid is that it goes stringy after a month or two of not being in use, this will require the paint pot to be filtered, otherwise it will jam the airbrsh. A bit of a disappointment after such great results elsewhere.
However this is my experience and this is what works for me, the best thing to do in modelling is try new things, and find what works best for yourself.
As always a very formative video with some great points highlighted, very professional with the two test beds. I also liked the comparison between two finished models, as it showed how the different products can effect/ be utilized for the finished model.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks
Your my favorite modeling channel
Thank you so much!!
Interesting comparison video! For light chips vs hairspray as mentioned below you want to compare AK's lighter chipping fluid, which is not very well named imo as worn effects (instead of 'light') but anyway appreciate the comparison! I'm not a huge fan of hairspray technique as it is difficult to get a good coat (of any aerosol) in our humid climate =/ so kind of stuck with using the airbrush, tho I'm not good at it either lol
have always been a little scared of trying hairspray but man is it nice !
It's nice and easy too. And it seems like it's all I do for chipping now hehe
Are these the older tamyia kits
Thanks for sharing.
Yes they are. They make good paint mules.
Hair spray better and much cheaper and you can go and buy it at many shops on the day you want it. Nice video and honest review
Thank you :)
Another vote for hairspray. Chips look more in scale, that exact brand costs less than $3USD for the large can and the convenience of just shaking the can and applying with no airbrush cleanup.
Outstanding! Thank you.
Hairspray for me - easier to use, more subtle (and in scale), easy to get a hold of. The hairspray can be more heavily weathered if you want, you need to do a little extra work though. Overall, hairspray is just more versatile!
Also, keep in mind what paints you are using. Acrylics, typically, are more difficult to chip - Tamiya acrylics, thinned with water, are good though (not a true acrylic). Apparently Lifecolor is good too (haven't tried them for chipping). Enamels work really well.
Good points!
Nice video , thanks
you can Thin the chipping Fluids with Water they spray better. as for which is better i find hair spray is the best, its cheaper and easier to control
I think hairspray works better as well. The AK and Mig chipping fluid "to me" is just a $6-$7 cash grab.
Ahhh Tamiya is more “chippy”! Thanks for tip.
Awesome video very well explianed
Thank you Kent!
Have you done a tutorial on how you do battle damage and dented or broken parts on a tank? That would be a good thing to show others how you do it.
I'll be doing one on making shell hits soon. But that's also a great idea!
Great video, thank you!
Thanks Tim!
I prefer hairspray method.Another tip is when chipping use a cheap nailbrush or toothbrush to get nice scratch effects
Hey Mike. What do you mean by "nailbrush"?
Very good video
Thanks Kim!
I think there's a big X factor in what paint you use. Adam Wilder recommends Tamiya thinned 1:1 with water. That will weaken that paint - you'd never thin Tamiya with Water. The intention is to weaken the paint - in other words do something you wouldn't do for a regular paint job. After all, you want the paint to come off. Rinaldi uses Tamiya with lacquer thinner. I've actually had decent luck with AK - but I use their "Worn Effects" which is considerably milder than "Heavy Chipping" - and AK claims you can brush the stuff on just as well as airbrush it. I think Dave's good luck with Vallejo was due to the light hand used - heavier use with any of the chipping fluids will cause big chips - although that might be exactly what you want. Rinaldi sometimes skips the hairspray/fluid step completely if using whitewash - he takes it off with a light brushing with lacquer thinner - and that does work. (I've found that if the chipping is coming slow, just dampen it a little with ISP - then give it a light brush - a paint brush, not a tooth brush. I think that doing whitewash and just aiming for standard chipping may require different approach.
I've tried the scratches effects and the heavy chipping and I think that you want the scratches effects. From what I've understood the heavy chipping is supposed to chip like that.
The scratches effects from my trials is very close to hair spray, so you might find that one more to your liking.
Awesome vids by the way. :)
Thank you! I will see if I can find some of that to test it out too :)
What compressor do you use. Very good video
I have a very basic Paasche compressor. It's the cheap one you can find online for less than $100...many companies sell it rebranded.
Are you able to do this with brush painting I dont currently have an airbrush
Get an airbrush.
They both look good to me but I use hairspray myself. Another Rinaldi tidbit is to use a hair dryer. Can't be without one now.
I've always been worried about the hairdryer...heat + plastic would only go poorly for me!
Очень полезное видео))
The hairspray that i have damages the base coat, so i always have to add a protective layor between the base coat and the hair spray before adding the chipping white layor and chipping it
Edit: it might have something to do with the fact i dont have an airbrush and i apply my paint with a brush, so it is not as thin
/yeah, the brush painting is probably what's giving you problems
What color did you use over the yellow
I’m going to base paint a tiger German gray with a white camo chipped using hairspray technique. I also want to add a pin wash and oil streaks. In your opinion, what order does that need to go in and do I need to satin varnish at any time?
I would paint the Tiger grey and apply any decals and chipping effects first. Then two thin coats of hairspray, then white, then chip it. After it has all dried you can apply a satin varnish to lock in your chipping. Next I would apply the pinwash, and lastly the streaking effects.
Thanks agien
Next time use a darker color undercoat. The chipping effect would be more visible over dark green or panzer grey
+Rick Opich isn't that panzer grey?
I have a question. After applying the paint on the hairspray or chipping fluid, how long does the paint has to dry before chipping it? And thanks a lot for your outstanding vids!
I did 4 sets of chipping: 10 minutes, 1 hour, 3 hours, and 30 hours after applying the paint. Tamiya paints dry pretty quick so 10 minutes is plenty long enough.
Thank you for your reply. No I understand it better. I used the chipping fluid, but I’ll try the hairspray technique next time.
After the chipping technique is finished do you seal the model? I'm just afraid of the stability of the paint with the hairspray underneath. I have not seen this issue addressed yet so just wondering what your thoughts are on this.
+JPMerce12 you can seal it if you want to; there is no harm in a varnish "just in case". I never do since hairspray and the acrylic paints will not be affected by enamel thinners, only water or alcohol based thinners.
Of course, if you're using a really hot enamel thinner or really weak acrylics like Vallejo, then be sure to seal it.
Thanks for the quick reply. I am trying to bend the learning curve a lot. Latest issue was using a Tamiya Flat clear coat after using artist oils for chipping effects. I guess I didn't wait long enough because all the chipping effects turned white after clear coating....sooo now its going get whitewashed!@@Panzermeister36
+JPMerce12 yes that was likely the issue. How long did you wait after applying the oils, and did you soak the linseed oil out of them? I would leave them to soak for at least 4 hours and wait a few days before vanishing over them.
Well..lol. I put the oils on cardboard taking the paint from the top. It seemed to be drying rather quick so I started right away. And it was probably less than an hour after I was done that I dull coated. Now I know. I assume most guys are using acrylic or lacquer paints for this reason. @@Panzermeister36
+JPMerce12 yeah usually oils are not used for chipping, but for doing dust and streaking effects and tinting of the base colour. Acrylics dry fast so myself and many other use them for chipping.
And yes, the oils will start to dry out after you leave them out on the cardboard. That is fine; they're not like acrylics where it can be hard to reactivate without ruining the paint. Leave them out for a number of hours, then once the linseed oil has soaked out you can reactivate the oil paint with a little thinner. They'll be just like when they came out of the tube, just now they're thinned with proper enamel thinner or whatnot instead of linseed oil.
Hi Panzermeister36, im having a lot of issues with Vallejo chipping medium, ive noticed that when i spray it on to my model it would dry with an orange peel texture and when spraying a coat of paint it cracks and looks awful, i've tried many different PSI's, adding water and even applying it with a fine brush, i seem to get the same effect, could you give me any idea as to what i may be doing wrong please,
I've never used that product specifically, but I may have an idea. Are you applying it in a few super thin coats, just misting it on? Those cracks appear with the AK Interactive chipping fluids if you apply too heavy of a coat of the chipping fluid, or if you apply the top colour before the chipping fluid has entirely dried.
thank you for a fast reply, its much appreciated, i have tried laying it on in thin coats with the same results, ive left it to dry at different amounts of time, also with same result, i just came across a guy and in his video he compared AK, Vallejo and hair spray, and hes had the exact same issue, so i think ill leave the Vallejo and give hair spray a try instead, his video if you find it interesting is ruclips.net/video/ZEfVLy7erqk/видео.html thank you for your time Panzermeister36, i love your videos and its awesome that you replied so quickly.
Nu Nu mytenmrtzger
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When is the best time to apply decals when doing the hairspray technique?
Probably after you have done all the chipping. You could damage the decals with a knife once they're dry to make them match any chipping.
Panzermeister36 thanks a lot! Will try that then.
For winter camo; would you pin wash (panel joints etc) before or after this stage?
I'd do it after the winter camo. I nice dark blueish/purpleish grey looks good on white for a pinwash.
Ok thanks for reply.
I was thinking dark grey black would be too stark.
Then I was thinking that maybe, given the whitewash was sploshed over the top of the normal state of the vehicle, that a dark brown black pin wash first, then hair spray, then chipping. So any chipping could reveal the darker washes and chips.
I like the idea of a lighter purpley wash.
Thanks.
Do these finally dry so that they no longer chip?
Yes the paint you apply on top (in this case white) will fully cure in about 5 hours and it should be pretty locked in by that point. But you can also apply a varnish to feel more confident about it.
That hair spray only...I had bad experience with others. Aquanet works but the treseme works best.
Das sieht ja mal nach einer echten Kampfmaschine aus !!
Danke!
Kind of an unrelated question, but how do you paint in the winter without freezing your butt or burning away a few brain cells from the fumes ? Thank you for the video. I have been curious bout which product for chipping I should use. Very informative
Hey man! I spray inside and I have a fan setup to handle most of the fumes hopefully.
Panzermeister36 Haha. I really should get myself one of those.No longer will I have to brave the harsh cold.
You can assemble a home-made spray booth for less than 200$ and feed it through in a window that you can open and plug temporarily with a plastic core panel ( i.e. *For Sale* signs ) equipped with an exhaust duct bought at Home Depot or similar... and buy to a good quality "squirrel cage" bathroom fan (200cfm) and make your own extractor booth and it will handle most of the fumes... lots of good examples on Y-tube and lots of bad ones as well but ... it beats sucking in the fumes! I have been using one of those for 20+ years and no probs.
SchweinHund227 I honestly have never thought of that. Thank you very much ! I will look into it and do some research. It could also be an interesting side project saving me a few hundred bucks !
Basile James you can also buy a decent spray booth that folds up to be put away. Check them out might be something you can use
Supermarkets own cheeping you can get, hairspray works the best of the hairsprays.
Hairspray looks better and cheaper to buy!
Di you use normal hair spray? Like what wemen have on there hear!??!?!
Yes! It works very well. Since it can be washed out of your hair with water, it chips paint perfectly with water too!
Panzermeister36 THANKS AGIEN!!! YOU HAVE TRULY SAVED MY MODELS AGIEN
Glad do be able to help you out!
Panzermeister36 Glad to fibd a Good Chanel to help me
Are you made out of Panzer IVs now?
+Adam Mann I'm made of StuGs. I just have a bunch of old kits hulls I use as mules
let's try sponge ^-^
The old tried and tested methods usually work better and by the look of it this is no different.
In my experience, very rarely does a new ‘wonder’ product ever really improve things much.
+Guy Lawrance yeah, the specialty products usually just cost more and don't do nearly as good of a job as the basics do.
Panzermeister36 - Subscribed !
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Say no to hairspray chipping use a paintbrush be creative .
Youre videos are great for learning.......but holy cow man do you just keep repeating yourself......you must say the word chip and chipping close to a million times......it starts to lose its meaning and burn a hole through my brain to the point where it becomes likes nails on a chalk board just to hear the word every time you say it.......but other than that i love your videos
+C Double isn't the video about chipping??
@@Panzermeister36 yeah it totally is......but the use of the word becomes so redundant that it becomes a turn off in a way and makes me never want to hear that word used again for a long time......like i said.....i absolutely love your videos......they are awesome and i have learned so much from watching them......i was just saying the use of that word became a bit overkill in my opinion.......but my opinion doesnt mean much........just ask my girlfriend about that one......lol