You can´t believe how difficult it was 20 years ago to have this kind of information. No internet (or at least arcaic and with much less information) and few model stores. I had to travel many km sometimes just to get a 10 page expensive magazine with one or two tips and not in my language or english.... no google translator either :P Great work. Keep it going.
will pattison Thank you very much! I learned this technique from model railroaders and I think it has a really nice effect. I'm going to try the hairspray technique out soon; I never have before.
I really like that chipping technique Evan. I've always done one single color for chipping, but I'm definitely going to try this on the next model I chip up.
Great video Evan. This is very similar to the way I do multi layered chipping. I do like the randomness of Carlos's scouring pad method, but all in all they're the same.
Very well done. Glad to see that you included the inside of the plates as well.I finally posted some of my work so take a look and tell what you think!
bob ahnert Thanks Bob! Most of the chipping on the inside of the plates lower down is completely invisible, but at least I know it's there! I'll check out your video :)
geeserman Thanks! I showed how i did some fender bending in the first installment of my T-40 buildthrough series, but I'll try to make a separate video about it too
Panzermeister36 good work and thank you for sharing this tutorial, my question is about the chipping with the paint brush I model railroad equipment and there are scratches on freight cars especially around boxcar doors I want to use your technique to replicate this striking effect on my models the question is that dark brown color used for the rust effect as well thank you
Another awesome video! Keep up the good work. This noob modeler is learning lots. I actually ran to the local art store for oil paints after watching your other weathering video.
That's awesome Chris! I think that oil paints are by far the best type of paint for modelling as you can use them for rendering techniques, washes, streaking, and chipping. Just make sure you get a decent thinner that dries matte and thus doesn't leave any of those "tide marks" as we call them - shiny pool-like stains that appear on the surface even after it has dried. If you do end up with those, I get rid of them by waiting until the thinner is about 90% dry as you can then see if the tide marks are appearing (still very shiny) or if the thinner is drying matte. If I have tide marks forming then, I take a really soft mid-sized brush (number 4 or so) and then gently rub over the edges of the tide marks to kind of spread them out and blend them in. If that doesn't help, a matte coat can cut them down quite a bit, or you can try to blend them out doing what I just described, but with a little bit of thinner on the brush this time. AK and Wilder thinners are great in my opinion though I mainly use the 'Gotrick' brand's Brush Cleaner because those AK and Wilder thinners I just mentioned will also thin down and remove/change any enamel paint effects you've done (unless you did a sealing coat). So if you've used an AK Interactive, Wilder, MiG Productions, Mig AMMO, etc. wash or streaking effects and you start to do some oil rendering then you might mess up those previous washes and stuff if you use AK or other thinners for the oils. Gotrick brush cleaner has never done that to me when I use it as an oil thinner. But then keep in mind that if you do some of those enamel washes and stuff on top of any oil paints, the thinners from those enamels might mess up the oils! So I always do all my enamel work first (filter, wash, rust/streaking effects) and then do the oils on top of that using the Gotrick brush cleaner to thin it. This never leads to any problems at all and I don't do sealing coats in between the effects, ever. Hope this helps!
Amazing results ! I never done this and after watching you... I might give it a go ! the finish product is quite striking ! Well done and congrats on all those subs... Well deserved !
Norm Lajoie Thank you Norm! I learnt this method through model railroading weathering guides and I really like the effects it gives. I have actually never tried hairspray chipping but I really want to give that a try soon!
Evan. Great video, I'm starting to lean more towards this method of chipping, I find hairspray difficult to control although it's pretty decent for whitewash camo scheme's. Can u tell me how you thinned your paints for this video?
+Android 13 I have two StuGs all built and waiting for this. It's something I've been planning for a little bit. Thanks for reminding me though...I need to get on it :)
Mallecourt Robin Thank you! I think using a metal colour for the chipping might have too strong an effect and make it look too shiny. I would use the metal colour only in certain areas like I did with the pencil to replicate recently worn down surfaces; the blacks and browns are more for older marks that have gotten a bit rusty.
Wow Evan, this is awesome! Gives me ideas for the Stug III I'm building right now. I really hope you will make a reveal video for this one buddy. Keep em up!! :)
Panzermeister36 Dragon Stug III Ausf G Late Production. No armor side plates in the kit. I think I'll scavenge some of my 2 new kits, Stug IV Final and the Panzer 4 with zimmerit. Or I'll just use them as a template to scratchbuild a couple of em out of metal sheets or styrene...dunno yet. It kinda looks naked without those plates. And thanks for the new video, I'll watch it later, I'm sure its awesome and that It will inspire me to keep going on. Keep em coming buddy!
byrnespeed Ah alright. Does you kit come with the rails? I have 4 middle plates, one front plate and one back plate left over from this kit (it was extra middle ones because its in the StuG IV kits too) so I could send them to you if you want :) I might have some leftover rails but not the arms that attach the rails to the hull.
Panzermeister36 I have the rails, they come in the kit but no arms, I'll scratchbuild them. COD them to me if you want. Email me and give me your price, I'll send you my adress.
Man Manburger hmmm...I think that silver would work well if you're simulating actual fresh metal in the chips. Here I used the brown or black to simulate either the base primer colour, or just rust or some kind of oxidation on the metal. I used a pencil for the actual metal effects and I only used it lightly as I don't want a shiny model. I guess if you used the silver lightly too, but it all depends on the look you're going for.
thank you! I don't know, I read a lot of books on the hobby and watch other videos and talk to guys I meet at shows and stuff. I modify those ideas also come up with my own, and if it works then I share it to help other out! I guess I am pretty young compared to many of my viewers, but a lot of you also started with this hobby when you were young and then got back into it later, right? School and girls kinda takes away a lot of that fun hobby time...it's already eating away at mine!
+Panzermeister36 actually no I'm starting quite late. I was a athlete most of my life. But I have always been interested in the hobby. But now that I'm older and don't compete any longer I really enjoy modeling. Just have a long way to go skill wise. I hope I can get on your level one day. But anyway girls will always take up your time ;)
Shockwave oh I know, they already do ;) Well I hope you've having fun with the hobby, and I hope you find my videos helpful What did sports did you compete in?
How are you so good with the AK paint!?!?!? My god! That stuff is a pain in the ass to use. For me, it went on like a wash. My red undercoat for German tanks wasn't red, it was a very bright orange. I guess I can use it for SS camo, but still!! And this was the 1945 German Armor Paint Set
Davis Jacobs Thanks Davis! You really have to shake it up a lot first and yes it is very thin, so I only use a tiny amount on the brush. And I have found that same probelm too, all of the browns and reds seem to have too much of an orangey-red hue to them.
Thank you! I started my channel around 8 years ago when I was 15. It takes some time to build an audience, but stick with it! You will always grow with time. Share what you enjoy the most with the hobby in videos and you'll be successful....tutorials are popular.
You can´t believe how difficult it was 20 years ago to have this kind of information. No internet (or at least arcaic and with much less information) and few model stores. I had to travel many km sometimes just to get a 10 page expensive magazine with one or two tips and not in my language or english.... no google translator either :P
Great work. Keep it going.
dude, I dig your old-school approach. You've got mad skills and a unique understanding of how things actually get weathered in real life.
will pattison Thank you very much! I learned this technique from model railroaders and I think it has a really nice effect. I'm going to try the hairspray technique out soon; I never have before.
Looks awesome. Hats off to you for having simplistic and comprehensive videos.
Thank you Robert!
I wasn't convinced at the start with the paint brushing, but after while all the layers do make this look so much better, nice vid.
Excellent video. It's really a neat way to make military vehicles have that used look like they were in a combat situation or in a battle. Thanks.
I really like that chipping technique Evan. I've always done one single color for chipping, but I'm definitely going to try this on the next model I chip up.
***** Thanks Pat! I find the two-tone gives a lot more depth to the chips.
Great video Evan. This is very similar to the way I do multi layered chipping. I do like the randomness of Carlos's scouring pad method, but all in all they're the same.
Adam Mann Thanks Adam! I'll have to check out Carlos' method then :)
Very well done. Glad to see that you included the inside of the plates as well.I finally posted some of my work so take a look and tell what you think!
bob ahnert Thanks Bob! Most of the chipping on the inside of the plates lower down is completely invisible, but at least I know it's there! I'll check out your video :)
Awesome tutorial, thanks for sharing your technique. I will try it out on my builds. Build on my friend!
Papa Kilo 1/35 Armor Thank you :) I hope this video helps you out buddy! I'm going to try the hairspray chipping soon and see how that goes.
Very good and clear video! I think this helps a lot of people!
***** Thanks buddy! I hope it does; that's why I make them :D
Very informative and helpful. I would like to see you do a video on battle damage, bent fenders and that sort of thing.
geeserman Thanks! I showed how i did some fender bending in the first installment of my T-40 buildthrough series, but I'll try to make a separate video about it too
Thanks for the time and effort you share with others, it's greatly appreciated. Great work.
Thank you Peter!
Panzermeister36 good work and thank you for sharing this tutorial, my question is about the chipping with the paint brush I model railroad equipment and there are scratches on freight cars especially around boxcar doors I want to use your technique to replicate this striking effect on my models the question is that dark brown color used for the rust effect as well thank you
You keep churning out great stuff brother! Very informative turtorial and outstanding results! Kutgw!
Cheers!
GeekyRocket Thank you Brad! Hope you find the video useful buddy :)
Nice tutorial!! I learned many useful things for themselves, thank you very much
Дмитрий Гинзбург Thank you Dmitry!
That is a really interesting and useful bunch of techinques. Nice Job !
Basile James Thanks buddy! Are the link-and-lenght plastic tracks of your KV covered with pin marks too?
Another really excellent tutorial Evan, many thanks for sharing Bud
Michael B Thank you Micheal!
Another awesome video! Keep up the good work. This noob modeler is learning lots. I actually ran to the local art store for oil paints after watching your other weathering video.
That's awesome Chris! I think that oil paints are by far the best type of paint for modelling as you can use them for rendering techniques, washes, streaking, and chipping. Just make sure you get a decent thinner that dries matte and thus doesn't leave any of those "tide marks" as we call them - shiny pool-like stains that appear on the surface even after it has dried. If you do end up with those, I get rid of them by waiting until the thinner is about 90% dry as you can then see if the tide marks are appearing (still very shiny) or if the thinner is drying matte. If I have tide marks forming then, I take a really soft mid-sized brush (number 4 or so) and then gently rub over the edges of the tide marks to kind of spread them out and blend them in. If that doesn't help, a matte coat can cut them down quite a bit, or you can try to blend them out doing what I just described, but with a little bit of thinner on the brush this time.
AK and Wilder thinners are great in my opinion though I mainly use the 'Gotrick' brand's Brush Cleaner because those AK and Wilder thinners I just mentioned will also thin down and remove/change any enamel paint effects you've done (unless you did a sealing coat).
So if you've used an AK Interactive, Wilder, MiG Productions, Mig AMMO, etc. wash or streaking effects and you start to do some oil rendering then you might mess up those previous washes and stuff if you use AK or other thinners for the oils. Gotrick brush cleaner has never done that to me when I use it as an oil thinner.
But then keep in mind that if you do some of those enamel washes and stuff on top of any oil paints, the thinners from those enamels might mess up the oils! So I always do all my enamel work first (filter, wash, rust/streaking effects) and then do the oils on top of that using the Gotrick brush cleaner to thin it. This never leads to any problems at all and I don't do sealing coats in between the effects, ever. Hope this helps!
Amazing results ! I never done this and after watching you... I might give it a go !
the finish product is quite striking ! Well done and congrats on all those subs... Well deserved !
Norm Lajoie Thank you Norm! I learnt this method through model railroading weathering guides and I really like the effects it gives. I have actually never tried hairspray chipping but I really want to give that a try soon!
Outstanding video my friend going to barrow some of the techniques on my Bradley build .
Awesome! Thanks Steve. I hope the video is useful to you
Panzermeister36 Sure was thanks.
Well done!!
Awesome tutorial. Thank you very much.
bpezzano1 Thank you for watching and commenting :)
Good tutorial Evan thanks for sharing mate.
Armour Empire Thank you Mark!
Wow ich muss ein Lob aussprechen du hast tolle Arbeit geleistet sieht aus wie echtes Metall!
Danke!
Awesome job! Very informative. StuG's are my favorites too, especially StuG IIIs
sorichar Thanks! Same with me I love the StuG IIIs!
Pretty cool!
Scale Journal Thank you :)
Sehr schön gemacht 👍🏻
Evan. Great video, I'm starting to lean more towards this method of chipping, I find hairspray difficult to control although it's pretty decent for whitewash camo scheme's. Can u tell me how you thinned your paints for this video?
Great tutorial. Thanks. More in line with my own techniques. Better effects than the "Hairspray method";
I would like to see you paint and weather a Stug iii interior
+Android 13 I have two StuGs all built and waiting for this. It's something I've been planning for a little bit. Thanks for reminding me though...I need to get on it :)
Your videos helps me a lot. Thanks fort sharing your Videos.
Greetings from Germany.
ben lar Thank you Ben! I'm glad you enjoy my video! Greetings from Canada :)
Great video ! It will really help me ! Thank you ! And sometimes do you use metal color like humbrol 53 ?
Mallecourt Robin Thank you! I think using a metal colour for the chipping might have too strong an effect and make it look too shiny. I would use the metal colour only in certain areas like I did with the pencil to replicate recently worn down surfaces; the blacks and browns are more for older marks that have gotten a bit rusty.
Panzermeister36 Okay thanks a lot !
What kv-1 kit was that in your intro as I want one!
It's the Trumpeter one, the model 1942. All of those KV-1s from Trumpeter and quite good.
+Panzermeister36 thanks
I agree. I have one on my workbench right now, freshly glued !
Very helpful. Thx
Wow Evan, this is awesome! Gives me ideas for the Stug III I'm building right now. I really hope you will make a reveal video for this one buddy. Keep em up!! :)
byrnespeed Thanks! What StuG is in the works right now? I just put the reveal up this morning :)
Panzermeister36 Dragon Stug III Ausf G Late Production. No armor side plates in the kit. I think I'll scavenge some of my 2 new kits, Stug IV Final and the Panzer 4 with zimmerit. Or I'll just use them as a template to scratchbuild a couple of em out of metal sheets or styrene...dunno yet. It kinda looks naked without those plates. And thanks for the new video, I'll watch it later, I'm sure its awesome and that It will inspire me to keep going on. Keep em coming buddy!
byrnespeed Ah alright. Does you kit come with the rails? I have 4 middle plates, one front plate and one back plate left over from this kit (it was extra middle ones because its in the StuG IV kits too) so I could send them to you if you want :) I might have some leftover rails but not the arms that attach the rails to the hull.
Panzermeister36 I have the rails, they come in the kit but no arms, I'll scratchbuild them. COD them to me if you want. Email me and give me your price, I'll send you my adress.
nice tutorial!
i modelist thanks buddy :)
Glorious StuG. I didn't choose the StuG life. The StuG life chose me.
762x54r-innawoods StuGs are the best!
I saw a video of a guy using silver instead of black for the chipping. What do you think of that?
Man Manburger hmmm...I think that silver would work well if you're simulating actual fresh metal in the chips. Here I used the brown or black to simulate either the base primer colour, or just rust or some kind of oxidation on the metal. I used a pencil for the actual metal effects and I only used it lightly as I don't want a shiny model. I guess if you used the silver lightly too, but it all depends on the look you're going for.
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful to me. Now to go try it
dalton vickers Thank you Dalton! I'm glad it's helpful, good luck :)
How are you getting the AK stuff in Canada????
Let me know, and its cost effectiveness..
TIA
+GetSmart008 I get it through a shop in Toronto, where I go usually twice a year
thanks i love this tutorial
mcw0106 Thank you :)
Awesome! You're really good. How did you learn all this and be so young?
thank you! I don't know, I read a lot of books on the hobby and watch other videos and talk to guys I meet at shows and stuff. I modify those ideas also come up with my own, and if it works then I share it to help other out! I guess I am pretty young compared to many of my viewers, but a lot of you also started with this hobby when you were young and then got back into it later, right? School and girls kinda takes away a lot of that fun hobby time...it's already eating away at mine!
+Panzermeister36 actually no I'm starting quite late. I was a athlete most of my life. But I have always been interested in the hobby. But now that I'm older and don't compete any longer I really enjoy modeling. Just have a long way to go skill wise. I hope I can get on your level one day. But anyway girls will always take up your time ;)
Shockwave oh I know, they already do ;)
Well I hope you've having fun with the hobby, and I hope you find my videos helpful
What did sports did you compete in?
What is the music?
How are you so good with the AK paint!?!?!? My god! That stuff is a pain in the ass to use. For me, it went on like a wash. My red undercoat for German tanks wasn't red, it was a very bright orange. I guess I can use it for SS camo, but still!! And this was the 1945 German Armor Paint Set
Davis Jacobs Thanks Davis! You really have to shake it up a lot first and yes it is very thin, so I only use a tiny amount on the brush. And I have found that same probelm too, all of the browns and reds seem to have too much of an orangey-red hue to them.
Panzermeister36 I still prefer Vallejo paint out of all the paint I've ever used. I don't, I repeat don't, recommend Testors, that stuff is terrible!
Davis Jacobs oh my god testors nooooo..
~never again~
Panzermeister36 I think a lot of us began the hobby using that stuff.
Nice, i hear on your voice you was younger, i started my Channel when i was 13 and now im 14 running it almost a year hope i will be succesfull as you
Thank you! I started my channel around 8 years ago when I was 15. It takes some time to build an audience, but stick with it! You will always grow with time. Share what you enjoy the most with the hobby in videos and you'll be successful....tutorials are popular.
@@Panzermeister36 thx
why do you use the MW2 soundtrack for backround
Because its good?
Fantastic video. Very entertsining and fabulous results. KUTGW. BT W.....what does meh mean?
Stevie Gibson Much thanks Stugie ;) meh...its kinda like when you you're like "..well........." in a lazy, don't-want-to-do-it kind of way...
Asahhhh. I see!
Hi
Hello