Thanks for this video. I used AK RC thinned with Mr Colour LT 400. As you explained I was tapping away all day long with various stiff brushes and was unable to get the chipping effect to start. Same problem on another model when I used Tamiya with Mr C LT. Even with tooth picks not a scratch on the paint surface. My models almost became plastic lawn darts out of frustration. After countless searches online, thinking I had screwed up the method, I stumbled on your video which explained the exact problem I was having. Will try your method and hopefully will have great success.
This Incredible work 👏 Thank you for sharing the information on this. I Never really tried it. I just figured it can be done with different size brushes
Awesomeness Will...I’ve moved away from the hairspray technique because of inconsistent results....but you’re right, it does look so much more realistic and this has motivated me to give it another go. Great video.
You nailed it right on the head with your chipping variables. Especially, size, and more, or rather most importantly the small - micro chipping and the defusion & dispersion. They really set it off as being believably realistic. And.... those roundels look really good. I've been saying for at least 10 years that it looks so much better painting the ensigns and insignia instead of using the decals as much as possible. Not only does it just look better in general but it's also much easier to weather and chip.
Very nicely done, Will! I did my first hairspray chipping on the last model I did, a 5 ton truck I gave a paint job in UN White. After using a toothbrush the idea hit me about using a scratch pen. I'm using the same hairspray as you but I'm using strictly Tamiya acrylics. Keep doin' whatcher doin'!
Alastair here: Amazing video, explanation and effort on your side. Thank you, thank you, thank you sooo much! I watched the entire thing. I am rearing to get going with my SBD-Dauntless 48th now. But will play with a paint Mule (as per your naming convention, I think it was) first. Thank you again .
It's easy for me, spray on the layers of paint in the order that they'd be applied by the manufacturer, and then sand them off where they wear. The worse spittle from the adjusting the pressure on the first two layers, the better the wear pattern. He who controls the spray, controls the chipping. So, knowing how to make larger and smaller "dots" of paint coming out onto the surface, makes creating the pattern to the chipping happen. Once dry, sanding back into these layers is a lot more precise than hairspray philosophy.
Not tried this yet (achieved something similar by accident but not with hairspray ) but I will try it. Oddly enough, in service we would have paint simply lift because of bad prep...in effect the exactly what you are doing here. Compromise the bond. Boom...attenuated, there you go. Like most things it has its place and I can see it on parts of my next project (Tamiya Skyraider). I use pretty much only lacquers and find if you spray them thin (as you can with MRP and Gunze) they wear nicely. I have even tried metalic/Matt varnish then top coat and abraded with fine abrasive and it works nicely, the Matt giving that buffer which if you cut through then shines as well. Great stuff, right about Martin, hilarious and talented. Thanks Will
I am not a modeller but I enjoy these techniques,perhaps because I built such poor models as a little tacker. I keep saying it but I think I have now officially seen it all. I love the way people keep coming up with ideas. Great stuff. Hairspray incredible. Cheers. 🇦🇺
This was really interesting. I had considered it a foregone conclusion that chipping lacquers with hairspray was an impossibility. I was all set to try and find a different method for chipping lacquers.
Martin is amazing its all a tool i don't like to use hairspray i think its the easy way out .but for Certain clients that I don't have alot of time I will use hairspray chipping i just don't like it. I enjoy taking my time and painting my chipping by hand i get paid by the hour
I think there is a big difference beetwen Armour and aircraft chipping. Tanks got flat surfaces and mostly raised panel lines, so chipping is probably better by painting it on. Altough Martin (night shift) never did an aircraft so he can't say that his technique is better on aircrafts too. Aircrafts got no raised panel lines and not so many edges, therefore it's hard to make realistic chipping on engine cowling,where pilot climbs,gun bays etc . I have seen Martin 's video of chipping tutorial and he always focused on the edges but chipping on aircrafts aren't always on the edges so the paint on technique is too hard to look realistic. At least from my experience hairspray and chipping fluid for aircrafts, paint on and sponge on Armour. Hope this helped someone!
Will, I love Martin’s videos, I’ve only recently discovered them, they are funny as fuck and well produced, and kudos to you for giving him such a generous shout out, but don’t put yourself down, I’ve learned so much from your videos, and will continue to look forward to them. If I get stuck on something or want to try something new, I’ll say to myself, “what would Will do?” They are literally my go to reference encyclopaedia’s for anything model related! Thank You!
Great tutorial Will, IDK if you mentioned it, what was the paint that you used for the steel? And did you spray a clear coat prior to the hairspray? Thanks
Thanks again for the vid... So I can't buy Tressame level 3 hold here! (Only the high-strength stuff). What alternatives could I use under lacquer coats? I have tried Vallejo chipping medium and it sprays way too thick.
Great video as always. A few questions if you don’t mind. 1. How does the hair spray react to further weathering with oils and more importantly to mineral spirits. 2. Do you use the same technique for chipping canopy frames ?
no reaction unless there are defects in the colorcoat, and by the time you get to weathering you'll likely have a clear on top of it all anyhow. and yes.
Excellent demonstration, well thought out, organized, and presented! I have a few questions though. What paint are you using for the aluminum, is it going over a gloss black primer or over bare plastic? I'm assuming that all of the markings and walkways are painted, as I'm sure decals would be destroyed during the chipping process. How did you get all of the individual fasteners so perfectly silver, paint? Thanks for sharing your techniques with us!
thank you! here are answers....mrp super silver lacquer is my go to aluminum. sprayed on mr. surfacer 1500, unpolished unless there's some accidental texture. all markings painted so far. as for fasteners....if you're lucky they chip naturally. if not, i may go after them individually. i may also fill with silver enamel like a wash. for proud fasteners, i just rub the paint off with a buffing stick.
Gangster bro ..good video , but where does the hair spray come into play ? Used water on lacquer? I’m sorry I’m a bit confused. ✌🏻 Ps: chipping by engine exhaust.
Thank you for this one, Will! I'm about to try this for the first time on some AK Real Colors, and I'm debating whether or not to use the Worn Effects / heavy chipping effects from AK, or just hairspray. What would you recommend?
This was really informative! With the weather in my part of the world I prefer using lacquers. I thought I had to choose acrylics only to work the hairspray technique.
Completely agree with the subtractive over additive method, the additive approach just looks fake to the discerning eye. One question and you may have said it and I missed it but do you just paint the metal finish where you know you will chip or do you apply it to the full aircraft?
So, have you painted the entire subject with a metallic..."undercoat" prior to paint? If so what, may I please ask? Or just selectively where you intend to chip?
Opinions will differ, but re: prior comments on this video being too long, disagree. Your time spent on providing this chipping information is invaluable to the modeling community, IMO. So, thank you. One question…I’m using Mr. Color (their solvent-based acrylic line), so am assuming that will work here with that line?
Thank you for the kind words! If you watch much of my stuff you know I don't give a shit about it being "too long". And I also strive to provide good information so I have to say… Mr. color is not a "solvent-based acrylic". Firstly because it's pure lacquer. Whatever similarity the resin in it has to what model makers called "acrylic" is pretty much in name only. Secondly, I always feel like the term "solvent-based" is nonsense. Even water is a solvent if you're a sugar cube. Regardless, it will also chip just like MRP, but it will also be challenging because it's just naturally a tougher and more water resistant coating.
@@barpfotoPoints taken…and you’re right, H2O is the universal solvent after all! I described it as such (“solvent-based acrylic”) only because that’s exactly what Gunze calls it. 🙂 Honestly, I’m confused most of the time re: paint chemistry. I chose Mr. Color largely because of the model’s instructions and needed colors. I do want to try other brands, like MRP. In any case, by managing the variables (especially layer thickness in particular), sound like Mr. Color will work. I already decanted TS3. Thanks again!
Hey man. Love your channel. I've been considering getting into this youtube thing. What type of recording gear do you use? You seem to have a lot of success with it and I was wondering how you make it happen.
@@barpfoto nice. Thanks man. I especially love you oil paint rendering and hairspray tutorials you've done. I'm a mecha guy but I love those techniques. I haven't dove into oil paint rendering beyond practicinf on plastic plate. Planning on trying it on the next kit. Keep it up and thanks for the info!
I want to be educated. (Not have a beer with you without the beer) Nothing wrong with your modeling techniques, just a bit wordy. There was a great take away for me- the fiberglass brush with the softer bristles - didn't know there was such a thing.
IMO much better to decant the hair spray and just brush on like other chipping fluids. And use cheap dollar store, unscented if possible. Tresemme and other high dollar brands are just wasting money as they are all the same water activated ingredient. Remember Hair is dead, so Hair spray is nothing but a coating. And is it really bright at your bench or you have a GOOD Dr. Them pupils browski! Hahaha
I cannot argue with the results, and I certainly will not argue with someone that is so many leagues above me in modelling, but something about using hairspray on a model just doesn't seem right. Does it not affect the hold of the paint to the surface? Obviously that is what you want for the areas that are to be chipped, but what about the rest of the model? Is that paint going to peel or flake later? Or be prone to chipping in handling? The effect looks epic, but I'm a but concerned about long term durability...
A great video, and great build. Wise for us to learn this Hairspray method. NOW HEAR THIS SALT CHIPPERS; SALT BLOWING AROUND MAY RUN THE RISK OF A MICRO PIECE OF SALT GETTING INTO YOUR AIRBRUSH CAUSING PAINT CLOGGING. AND OF THE LIKES, THAT WOULD MAKE YOU WISH YOU NEVER TOOK UP MODEL BUILDING AT ALL! I SUSPECT BOTH MY AIRBRUSHES CLOGED WITH SALT IN SAME SESSION. I WILL KEEP YOU POSTED ON WHAT MY FINDINGS ARE.
Nice technique but I think its too heavy for aircrafts. No way the paint peels off of planes like that, except japanese subjects from 2nd world war where the paint was applied on natural metal surfaces without priming and was poor quality too. This effect works better on vehicles. Just my thoughts... Awesome spit though.
Yeah. And I could've done more. So if you don't fucking like it or don't have an adult attention span then you're more than welcome to go find yourself another free channel where somebody else takes their time to provide information for you.
@@droneforfun5384 it's all good, but the main reason my videos are long is because i try to include all the information that seems relevant. so...if you think it's too long, maybe you should consider what you think is worth knowing. ;)
You can skip 17 min of this babbling before you get into the meat of what you're looking for. Edit: 18 min and I'm leaving the video... get to the damn point
Thanks for this video. I used AK RC thinned with Mr Colour LT 400. As you explained I was tapping away all day long with various stiff brushes and was unable to get the chipping effect to start. Same problem on another model when I used Tamiya with Mr C LT. Even with tooth picks not a scratch on the paint surface. My models almost became plastic lawn darts out of frustration. After countless searches online, thinking I had screwed up the method, I stumbled on your video which explained the exact problem I was having. Will try your method and hopefully will have great success.
Literally just about to try this method for the first time. Will you are the man thank you for the uploads.
As a bald man, I just ordered 2 cans of hairspray.
Thank you for such a thoughtful and correct method. Masterly.
This Incredible work 👏 Thank you for sharing the information on this. I Never really tried it. I just figured it can be done with different size brushes
Awesomeness Will...I’ve moved away from the hairspray technique because of inconsistent results....but you’re right, it does look so much more realistic and this has motivated me to give it another go. Great video.
You nailed it right on the head with your chipping variables. Especially, size, and more, or rather most importantly the small - micro chipping and the defusion & dispersion. They really set it off as being believably realistic.
And.... those roundels look really good. I've been saying for at least 10 years that it looks so much better painting the ensigns and insignia instead of using the decals as much as possible. Not only does it just look better in general but it's also much easier to weather and chip.
Very nicely done, Will! I did my first hairspray chipping on the last model I did, a 5 ton truck I gave a paint job in UN White. After using a toothbrush the idea hit me about using a scratch pen. I'm using the same hairspray as you but I'm using strictly Tamiya acrylics. Keep doin' whatcher doin'!
I always come back to this video ! Thanks Will 😀
I appreciate the explanations of every step. So helpful in every way.
This technique seems to work very very well. That wing root looks amazingly realistic. Awesome work as usual!
Alastair here: Amazing video, explanation and effort on your side. Thank you, thank you, thank you sooo much! I watched the entire thing. I am rearing to get going with my SBD-Dauntless 48th now. But will play with a paint Mule (as per your naming convention, I think it was) first. Thank you again .
Great video. Thanks Will- exactly what I was looking for to get some tips prior to spraying the color coats over my Eduard 1:48 scale FW190A5.
It's easy for me, spray on the layers of paint in the order that they'd be applied by the manufacturer, and then sand them off where they wear. The worse spittle from the adjusting the pressure on the first two layers, the better the wear pattern. He who controls the spray, controls the chipping. So, knowing how to make larger and smaller "dots" of paint coming out onto the surface, makes creating the pattern to the chipping happen. Once dry, sanding back into these layers is a lot more precise than hairspray philosophy.
apples and oranges.
Not tried this yet (achieved something similar by accident but not with hairspray ) but I will try it. Oddly enough, in service we would have paint simply lift because of bad prep...in effect the exactly what you are doing here. Compromise the bond. Boom...attenuated, there you go. Like most things it has its place and I can see it on parts of my next project (Tamiya Skyraider).
I use pretty much only lacquers and find if you spray them thin (as you can with MRP and Gunze) they wear nicely. I have even tried metalic/Matt varnish then top coat and abraded with fine abrasive and it works nicely, the Matt giving that buffer which if you cut through then shines as well.
Great stuff, right about Martin, hilarious and talented. Thanks Will
Bonjour Will , super video , merci pour toute ces explications qui sont très utile.
I am not a modeller but I enjoy these techniques,perhaps because I built such poor models as a little tacker. I keep saying it but I think I have now officially seen it all. I love the way people keep coming up with ideas. Great stuff. Hairspray incredible. Cheers. 🇦🇺
Thank's for you help Will ! this in a very good and deep tutorial ! well done !
I can't be the only person that senses a bit of irony listening to this guy talking about hairspray.
Lol
"GANGSTERS" hahah love it!!! Thanks for the video
This was really interesting. I had considered it a foregone conclusion that chipping lacquers with hairspray was an impossibility. I was all set to try and find a different method for chipping lacquers.
Thanks for an intelligent video I just subscribed.
Interesting thanks very much. The time flew along
Esta técnica es sólo para pintura acrílica o sirve también para pintura esmalte?
Very interesting subject. I will have to try this at some point, thanks mate
Martin is amazing its all a tool i don't like to use hairspray i think its the easy way out .but for Certain clients that I don't have alot of time I will use hairspray chipping i just don't like it. I enjoy taking my time and painting my chipping by hand i get paid by the hour
I think there is a big difference beetwen Armour and aircraft chipping. Tanks got flat surfaces and mostly raised panel lines, so chipping is probably better by painting it on. Altough Martin (night shift) never did an aircraft so he can't say that his technique is better on aircrafts too. Aircrafts got no raised panel lines and not so many edges, therefore it's hard to make realistic chipping on engine cowling,where pilot climbs,gun bays etc . I have seen Martin 's video of chipping tutorial and he always focused on the edges but chipping on aircrafts aren't always on the edges so the paint on technique is too hard to look realistic. At least from my experience hairspray and chipping fluid for aircrafts, paint on and sponge on Armour. Hope this helped someone!
Will, I love Martin’s videos, I’ve only recently discovered them, they are funny as fuck and well produced, and kudos to you for giving him such a generous shout out, but don’t put yourself down, I’ve learned so much from your videos, and will continue to look forward to them. If I get stuck on something or want to try something new, I’ll say to myself, “what would Will do?” They are literally my go to reference encyclopaedia’s for anything model related! Thank You!
Wonder if it would help speed up the proces if you put a few drops of detergent in the water?
Excellent tutorial
Hi Will, looks fantastic. Thank you
Nice video, very useful, subscribed!
as for the philosophy. Chipping is chipping. Painting is painting. Nice work.
Great demo of a much unused technique on lacquers.
What are the different layers and what order are the paint and hair spray applied? Just started my first model.
01:00 That's my sh#t! I decanted some of it about a year ago and it still works great!
Where can I find this hair spray because wherever I look I can't find it
Lovely results
Amazing video!!! Congratulations! Subscribed!
Will what grit is that infini sponge you used before you started with the wet brush?
probably 1500
Love the chipping on the wing root and fuselage. I would have stopped there.
very convincing chipping. i follow this tutorial in a 1/6 scale hurricane. Lets see. Where can i buy fiber pencil for the process?
So what type of silver paint did you use?
Can you substitute the hairspray for clear coat to grab the salt?
Great tutorial Will, IDK if you mentioned it, what was the paint that you used for the steel? And did you spray a clear coat prior to the hairspray? Thanks
Thanks again for the vid...
So I can't buy Tressame level 3 hold here! (Only the high-strength stuff).
What alternatives could I use under lacquer coats? I have tried Vallejo chipping medium and it sprays way too thick.
I see you have MRP lacquer paint , can I ask you where did you purchase them?
Great video as always. A few questions if you don’t mind. 1. How does the hair spray react to further weathering with oils and more importantly to mineral spirits. 2. Do you use the same technique for chipping canopy frames ?
no reaction unless there are defects in the colorcoat, and by the time you get to weathering you'll likely have a clear on top of it all anyhow. and yes.
Excellent demonstration, well thought out, organized, and presented! I have a few questions though. What paint are you using for the aluminum, is it going over a gloss black primer or over bare plastic? I'm assuming that all of the markings and walkways are painted, as I'm sure decals would be destroyed during the chipping process. How did you get all of the individual fasteners so perfectly silver, paint? Thanks for sharing your techniques with us!
thank you! here are answers....mrp super silver lacquer is my go to aluminum. sprayed on mr. surfacer 1500, unpolished unless there's some accidental texture. all markings painted so far. as for fasteners....if you're lucky they chip naturally. if not, i may go after them individually. i may also fill with silver enamel like a wash. for proud fasteners, i just rub the paint off with a buffing stick.
Gangster bro ..good video , but where does the hair spray come into play ? Used water on lacquer? I’m sorry I’m a bit confused. ✌🏻
Ps: chipping by engine exhaust.
Will great video. I'll just say I agree with all the other comments.
Funny how some folks don't get your logic and common sense in your modeling! To heck with Phil Flory! LOL Love your stuff, Will!
Respectfully, why take a shot at Phil Flory?
brianc1701 Just some dick poster trying to reignite an old and forgotten disagreement .
Maintain the helpful work and delivering in the crowd!
Thank you for this one, Will! I'm about to try this for the first time on some AK Real Colors, and I'm debating whether or not to use the Worn Effects / heavy chipping effects from AK, or just hairspray. What would you recommend?
i prefer hairspray.
This was really informative! With the weather in my part of the world I prefer using lacquers. I thought I had to choose acrylics only to work the hairspray technique.
Completely agree with the subtractive over additive method, the additive approach just looks fake to the discerning eye. One question and you may have said it and I missed it but do you just paint the metal finish where you know you will chip or do you apply it to the full aircraft?
So, have you painted the entire subject with a metallic..."undercoat" prior to paint? If so what, may I please ask? Or just selectively where you intend to chip?
i only paint the specific areas where i need it. i use mrp.
I don’t understand the role that hairspray plays in the process. Is the scrach pen or brush dipped into decanted hairspray?
The hairspray is sprayed over the silver coat ( before the camo coat) the water activates the hairspray allowing the camo coat to be chipped.
@@mode1charlie170 thank you. When referring to the water, you mean the water in which the fibreglass pencil is dipped, right?
Opinions will differ, but re: prior comments on this video being too long, disagree. Your time spent on providing this chipping information is invaluable to the modeling community, IMO. So, thank you. One question…I’m using Mr. Color (their solvent-based acrylic line), so am assuming that will work here with that line?
Thank you for the kind words! If you watch much of my stuff you know I don't give a shit about it being "too long". And I also strive to provide good information so I have to say… Mr. color is not a "solvent-based acrylic". Firstly because it's pure lacquer. Whatever similarity the resin in it has to what model makers called "acrylic" is pretty much in name only. Secondly, I always feel like the term "solvent-based" is nonsense. Even water is a solvent if you're a sugar cube. Regardless, it will also chip just like MRP, but it will also be challenging because it's just naturally a tougher and more water resistant coating.
@@barpfotoPoints taken…and you’re right, H2O is the universal solvent after all! I described it as such (“solvent-based acrylic”) only because that’s exactly what Gunze calls it. 🙂 Honestly, I’m confused most of the time re: paint chemistry. I chose Mr. Color largely because of the model’s instructions and needed colors. I do want to try other brands, like MRP. In any case, by managing the variables (especially layer thickness in particular), sound like Mr. Color will work. I already decanted TS3. Thanks again!
Great video. Did you paint the aircraft in aluminium first?
Hey man. Love your channel. I've been considering getting into this youtube thing. What type of recording gear do you use? You seem to have a lot of success with it and I was wondering how you make it happen.
thanks! i keep it simples. jvc everio camcorder, cheapo microphone boom arm, imovie. obviously i do very little editing or scripting. lol
@@barpfoto nice. Thanks man. I especially love you oil paint rendering and hairspray tutorials you've done. I'm a mecha guy but I love those techniques. I haven't dove into oil paint rendering beyond practicinf on plastic plate. Planning on trying it on the next kit. Keep it up and thanks for the info!
I want to be educated. (Not have a beer with you without the beer) Nothing wrong with your modeling techniques, just a bit wordy. There was a great take away for me- the fiberglass brush with the softer bristles - didn't know there was such a thing.
IMO much better to decant the hair spray and just brush on like other chipping fluids. And use cheap dollar store, unscented if possible. Tresemme and other high dollar brands are just wasting money as they are all the same water activated ingredient. Remember Hair is dead, so Hair spray is nothing but a coating.
And is it really bright at your bench or you have a GOOD Dr. Them pupils browski! Hahaha
I am indeed a gangster.
I cannot argue with the results, and I certainly will not argue with someone that is so many leagues above me in modelling, but something about using hairspray on a model just doesn't seem right. Does it not affect the hold of the paint to the surface? Obviously that is what you want for the areas that are to be chipped, but what about the rest of the model? Is that paint going to peel or flake later? Or be prone to chipping in handling? The effect looks epic, but I'm a but concerned about long term durability...
a fair question. all i can say is people have been at it for a decade and i've never heard anybody say it's an issue.
you put a layer of clear varnish over everything when you're done. This will protect the surface.
Is that an air bubble on the water transfer decal? It's driving me nuts!
er....at this point there isn't a single decal on it. 100% paint.
A great video, and great build. Wise for us to learn this Hairspray method. NOW HEAR THIS SALT CHIPPERS; SALT BLOWING AROUND MAY RUN THE RISK OF A MICRO PIECE OF SALT GETTING INTO YOUR AIRBRUSH CAUSING PAINT CLOGGING. AND OF THE LIKES, THAT WOULD MAKE YOU WISH YOU NEVER TOOK UP MODEL BUILDING AT ALL! I SUSPECT BOTH MY AIRBRUSHES CLOGED WITH SALT IN SAME SESSION. I WILL KEEP YOU POSTED ON WHAT MY FINDINGS ARE.
Nice technique but I think its too heavy for aircrafts. No way the paint peels off of planes like that, except japanese subjects from 2nd world war where the paint was applied on natural metal surfaces without priming and was poor quality too. This effect works better on vehicles. Just my thoughts... Awesome spit though.
50 minutes on this topic...?
Yeah. And I could've done more. So if you don't fucking like it or don't have an adult attention span then you're more than welcome to go find yourself another free channel where somebody else takes their time to provide information for you.
That chipping on the wing root looks over done, I've never seen photos of Spitfires having that much paint worn.
then you're not looking hard enough.
About 40 minutes too long.
or your attention span is 40 minutes too short. i'm sure you can find another channel more suited to your needs.
agree a bit too wordy
@@droneforfun5384 you're entitled to your opinion. and to watch something else.
will pattison Iiked it, it's just that its 48min too long 😂
@@droneforfun5384 it's all good, but the main reason my videos are long is because i try to include all the information that seems relevant. so...if you think it's too long, maybe you should consider what you think is worth knowing. ;)
You can skip 17 min of this babbling before you get into the meat of what you're looking for.
Edit: 18 min and I'm leaving the video... get to the damn point
He talks to long get to the point 😠😠😠😠😠😠
or you just have a feeble attention span.