After the debacle of my recent live stream on this subject, I wanted to share a usable video because this is such a great technique. If you want to see more about weathering freight cars, check this out: ruclips.net/video/oKZWsIOHCBU/видео.html
Thanks for a great video, I’m doing some chipping effects to weather the roof of a locomotive using the mig product. I’ve never used it before so it’s great to see you do this demonstration. In the research I’ve done so far I think the best results are by using an enamel top layer but acrylics work as well. Keep up the great work 😉
Hey, Luke. I haven't tried this with enamels yet, but I would think they would be ideal for chipping locks, rolling stock, etc. I released a video today where I used it on a structure that came out really nice.
Great stuff Ron, and timely. This is one of the other subtractive techniques for chipping/weathering that I like to use. The scratches effect is definitely a good choice for N scale. :)
This is a great demo of what looks to be a very good product. As you said, it looks as if this would work really good on N or HO scale. I myself model in O scale. I’m curious though, have you ever herd of or tried the “salt weathering effect”? Basically what you do is paint the structure or whatever you want weathered with the rust color first, I usually use the various Rustolum rust colors in a spray can, let dry well (overnight at least), spray on regular water with a spray bottle getting the piece really wet. Next sprinkle on some sea salt. The salt will stick to the piece because of the water. I usually use a course sea salt. Once that dries spray on your top coat or whatever color you wish the structure to be. Let dry throughly (again overnight at least). Next just remove the sea salt. I usually just pick it off by hand wearing gloves. The effect is really striking and looks great. There’s a really great video on this process on Ericstrains RUclips channel from a few years ago. He used it on a custom built metal bridge. I myself have done this on smaller plastic bridges and various rolling stock. Looks great and is less involved. I really do like this demo you did and am going to give this product a try Thanks.
Hi, Joe. I am familiar with salt weathering. I typically don't use it as an N scaler because it tends to leave larger rusted patches than I am wanting, although JC's Riptrack (John Crowdis) did a video just this week using this method slightly differently than I had seen before on and N scale car with beautiful results. After his video I may have to revisit the process for N scale.
I would like to thank you for redoing the subject matter. I did watch the live show and sometimes things just do not work out. After this one I went and bought the scratch media from amazon and just got it yesterday. Great stuff u put out.
Ron, So good that you decided to re- do the video from a few day's ago.For my own older style weathering effects I over spray with Testers Matt Varnish,from the spray can. You might need to Over Spray these new effects, also.Cheers, Chris Perry.
Hi Chris. A coat of Dullcoat or similar is not absolutely necessary but not a bad idea, especially if it will be handled. I should have mentioned that in the video.
Thanks for sharing the information. After using airbrush to spray mig-2010 chipping fluid, what cleaner do you use the airbrush? Do you use water? Thanks
thanks for sharing a demo of these products. One thing I missed was which paint type you used for the base coat and top coat. Were they enamels? I imagine that the method wouldn't work with water clean up acrylics. thanks!
Ron, this was a very interesting demo. I'm very impressed by the ease of using the product. The results are worth the time, effort and money spent for a better looking more realistic apperance. I have only used their meatl finishes and they are awesome. With the Chipping and Scratching you don't have to apply so many different paints and methods to achieve the look you want. This just seems to make it easier and appear to be more authentic. Great viddeo Ron and thanks for sharing and the demo Muse
Hey, David. I am somewhat new to using Mig and AK Interactive products, so to date I have yet to find a prduct by either of these companies that I do not like. How have you used the finishes you mentioned and what would you say is your favorite?
Ron, just started watching... Love the videos and how too's!!! Thanks for redoing the Chipping and Scratching video it was very difficult to decipher a lot of it. Two questions, Any issue with clean up of your Air Brush after using these products? Could you give me a recommendation on paints for airbrushing and hand brushing? Just getting back into the hobby and things have changed a lot.
Hi, Joseph. The chipping and scratches fluid are water clean-up, so just clean your airbrush as you would after using any acrylic paint. As for paint, if you mean for use with these products, any acrylic paint will work. If you mean a general recommendation, I think we have all struggled a bit following the demise of Polly Scale. I use a combination of Model Masters, Vallejo (be careful, they have separate lines for air brushing and brush application), and Tamiya, but I'm still testing others.
Just curious do you have to seal it with something after your done? If the paint scratches that easy it looks like it would come off during handling a boxcar, or something like that that would be handled a lot.
Good question. Once the paint has dried--the water from the technique is all dry--the top coad is pretty stable, but yes, I would recommend sealing it with a layer of Dullcoat. I should have mentioned that in the video. Thanks.
Ron, thanks for sharing this product and technique. That will be very useful for my equipment and buildings. Oh, btw see you next weekend during the opp session weekend. Looks like we'll be running the same layouts on Friday and Saturday afternoon. If possible bring the example from this video, would like to see the outcome with my own eyes.
I am a little confused, I have been air brushing for years with normal testors type paints and I get the same effect using them, or dry brushing a white or rust color over any paint. so why use these products?
Ronald Broehm To me they are two different effects. Your dry brushing would look like a bolt has rusted and the rust stained the paint below it towards the ground. His method is paint chipping off and what was underneath has rusted. I have only done it your way so I’m just guessing.
I was ordering five items. 2 types of micro brushes, trip pin bender, hard wire cutter, and a set of cutting pliers . When I enter the promo code I get "Coupon code is invalid or unrecognized."
Ron... stop making all those long useless introduction... you can be much more synthetic and effective squeezing minutes of boring explanation in 20 sec... please do it... you have great skills but you are damaging yourself passing from a passionate model builder to a carpet reseller... think about it...
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After the debacle of my recent live stream on this subject, I wanted to share a usable video because this is such a great technique. If you want to see more about weathering freight cars, check this out: ruclips.net/video/oKZWsIOHCBU/видео.html
Thanks for a great video, I’m doing some chipping effects to weather the roof of a locomotive using the mig product. I’ve never used it before so it’s great to see you do this demonstration.
In the research I’ve done so far I think the best results are by using an enamel top layer but acrylics work as well.
Keep up the great work 😉
Hey, Luke. I haven't tried this with enamels yet, but I would think they would be ideal for chipping locks, rolling stock, etc. I released a video today where I used it on a structure that came out really nice.
Great stuff Ron, and timely. This is one of the other subtractive techniques for chipping/weathering that I like to use. The scratches effect is definitely a good choice for N scale. :)
Awesome! I’m not looking to paint trains but this video is perfect for what I was searching for! Thanks a million!
I'm glad I could help. There is so much cross over between various modeling hobbies. Thanks for watching.
This is a great demo of what looks to be a very good product. As you said, it looks as if this would work really good on N or HO scale. I myself model in O scale. I’m curious though, have you ever herd of or tried the “salt weathering effect”? Basically what you do is paint the structure or whatever you want weathered with the rust color first, I usually use the various Rustolum rust colors in a spray can, let dry well (overnight at least), spray on regular water with a spray bottle getting the piece really wet. Next sprinkle on some sea salt. The salt will stick to the piece because of the water. I usually use a course sea salt. Once that dries spray on your top coat or whatever color you wish the structure to be. Let dry throughly (again overnight at least). Next just remove the sea salt. I usually just pick it off by hand wearing gloves. The effect is really striking and looks great. There’s a really great video on this process on Ericstrains RUclips channel from a few years ago. He used it on a custom built metal bridge. I myself have done this on smaller plastic bridges and various rolling stock. Looks great and is less involved. I really do like this demo you did and am going to give this product a try Thanks.
Hi, Joe. I am familiar with salt weathering. I typically don't use it as an N scaler because it tends to leave larger rusted patches than I am wanting, although JC's Riptrack (John Crowdis) did a video just this week using this method slightly differently than I had seen before on and N scale car with beautiful results. After his video I may have to revisit the process for N scale.
I would like to thank you for redoing the subject matter. I did watch the live show and sometimes things just do not work out. After this one I went and bought the scratch media from amazon and just got it yesterday. Great stuff u put out.
Thanks, Will. I think you will enjoy working with it.
Thanks Ron for taking the time to re do this, much appreciated. A weathering technique I was previously unaware of ! 👍
Glad to do it. You should give it a try.
Ron, So good that you decided to re- do the video from a few day's ago.For my own older style weathering effects I over spray with Testers Matt Varnish,from the spray can. You might need to Over Spray these new effects, also.Cheers, Chris Perry.
Hi Chris. A coat of Dullcoat or similar is not absolutely necessary but not a bad idea, especially if it will be handled. I should have mentioned that in the video.
Thanks for sharing the information.
After using airbrush to spray mig-2010 chipping fluid, what cleaner do you use the airbrush? Do you use water? Thanks
thanks for sharing a demo of these products. One thing I missed was which paint type you used for the base coat and top coat. Were they enamels? I imagine that the method wouldn't work with water clean up acrylics. thanks!
Actually everything here is acrylic.
Ron, this was a very interesting demo. I'm very impressed by the ease of using the product. The results are worth the time, effort and money spent for a better looking more realistic apperance. I have only used their meatl finishes and they are awesome. With the Chipping and Scratching you don't have to apply so many different paints and methods to achieve the look you want. This just seems to make it easier and appear to be more authentic. Great viddeo Ron and thanks for sharing and the demo
Muse
Hey, David. I am somewhat new to using Mig and AK Interactive products, so to date I have yet to find a prduct by either of these companies that I do not like. How have you used the finishes you mentioned and what would you say is your favorite?
Nice idea on this product thanks for the intro to it I had used hair spray for years and had to so careful to not overdo the scaping or chipping
I found with these products the longer you let the top coat cure the more slowly the chipping occurs and thus the more control you have.
@@RonsTrainsNThings you had to be very careful sure could wreck it fast.in my method Going to try this thanks you
Great product, thanks for making this content all over again! Its definitely something to have in the tool box!
Thanks Joe.
Awesome video Ron. I will be using this technique on some hoppers for a client. Keep it up bud!- Joey
I really like these products. They work like a charm.
Ron, just started watching... Love the videos and how too's!!! Thanks for redoing the Chipping and Scratching video it was very difficult to decipher a lot of it. Two questions, Any issue with clean up of your Air Brush after using these products? Could you give me a recommendation on paints for airbrushing and hand brushing? Just getting back into the hobby and things have changed a lot.
Hi, Joseph. The chipping and scratches fluid are water clean-up, so just clean your airbrush as you would after using any acrylic paint. As for paint, if you mean for use with these products, any acrylic paint will work. If you mean a general recommendation, I think we have all struggled a bit following the demise of Polly Scale. I use a combination of Model Masters, Vallejo (be careful, they have separate lines for air brushing and brush application), and Tamiya, but I'm still testing others.
Wasn't familiar with these products. Thanks for the tip.
They are fun to work with.
Thanks for the review. Those looked good. What about the special technique?
I was referring to the sponge painting for those without an airbrush.
Just curious do you have to seal it with something after your done? If the paint scratches that easy it looks like it would come off during handling a boxcar, or something like that that would be handled a lot.
Good question. Once the paint has dried--the water from the technique is all dry--the top coad is pretty stable, but yes, I would recommend sealing it with a layer of Dullcoat. I should have mentioned that in the video. Thanks.
Ron, thanks for sharing this product and technique. That will be very useful for my equipment and buildings.
Oh, btw see you next weekend during the opp session weekend. Looks like we'll be running the same layouts on Friday and Saturday afternoon. If possible bring the example from this video, would like to see the outcome with my own eyes.
Cool, but you have me at a disadvantage. What is your name?
@@RonsTrainsNThings Nathan (Nate as Jon had it listed on the list) Chidester
I look forward to meeting you. BTW I have a son Nate.
Thank you for the tutorial, papadansmodels2 sent me this way to watch your video....enjoyed it .
Well thank you, and thanks to ppapadan.
Great Video Ron
Thanks.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Your Welcome
How does dullcoat effect this when you go to seal the work?
I meant to mention, Dullcoat works great to seal it. Not absolutely necessary, but if it will be handled it is a good idea.
I am a little confused, I have been air brushing for years with normal testors type paints and I get the same effect using them, or dry brushing a white or rust color over any paint. so why use these products?
Ronald Broehm To me they are two different effects. Your dry brushing would look like a bolt has rusted and the rust stained the paint below it towards the ground. His method is paint chipping off and what was underneath has rusted. I have only done it your way so I’m just guessing.
Great Demo. BUT the promo code for Micro Mark does not work. Tried Upper and lower case.
Tell me what you tried to purchase and what the system did and I will look into the issue.
I was ordering five items. 2 types of micro brushes, trip pin bender, hard wire cutter, and a set of cutting pliers . When I enter the promo code I get "Coupon code is invalid or unrecognized."
Ok, let me check it out.
Ok, George, there was a glitch, but it is fixed now. Sorry for the inconvenience. New link gremlins. Lol.
Is it your link was bad or the promo code was bad?
Ron... stop making all those long useless introduction... you can be much more synthetic and effective squeezing minutes of boring explanation in 20 sec... please do it... you have great skills but you are damaging yourself passing from a passionate model builder to a carpet reseller... think about it...
Ron,
Your introductions are just fine. I like your videos, just as they are.
The production values are professional, keep up the great work!